Re: [Chevelle-list] Parts Manual on CD
In a message dated 6/30/2005 10:20:32 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Tom, Just curious as to what it would take to get a copy of either the cd or the loose leaf copy you made? Thank you Ryan You can get the CD with a search function from a guy off Team Chevelle for $5. Click the link below: http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=74198 Tom
Re: [Chevelle-list] Parts Manual on CD
Tom, Just curious as to what it would take to get a copy of either the cd or the loose leaf copy you made? Thank you Ryan
Re: [Chevelle-list] Parts Manual on CD
At 08:49 PM 6/30/2005, you wrote: I have seen many of the parts manuals on cd for sale on ebay. Are these cd's worth a darn or would it be a waste of time? Does anybody out there have anything like these? Thanks Ryan I bought one off of a guy on Team Chevelle. If you don't know how the old GM manuals were set up, you'll have a hard time finding stuff. I see he has one now with a search function that might be a little better, but it's still not like looking in your Summit catalog. They're only $5 , so you're not out a lot of money. Look here-- http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=74198 BillL
Re: [Chevelle-list] Parts Manual on CD
In a message dated 6/30/2005 9:50:33 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: have seen many of the parts manuals on cd for sale on ebay. Are these cd's worth a darn or would it be a waste of time? Does anybody out there have anything like these? Thanks Ryan I have 2 different copies of this CD. One of them is missing some pages, but none that are very relevant. I printed it out, all 2600 pages of it and put it in 2 large binders. It has tons of valuable info. Tom
RE: [Chevelle-list] Need a new crank?
Holy cow. I work for a scrap metal company and have seen many locomotive engine blocks come in for scrap and I thought they were big, as you can fit two or three on a tractor-trailer flatbed. -Dave -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Bill Bradley Sent: Thursday, June 30, 2005 8:33 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Need a new crank? and cheap too - Original Message - From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Sent: Thursday, June 30, 2005 5:53 PM Subject: [Chevelle-list] Need a new crank? > And I though a crank for a BBC was heavy :-) > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=34202&item =4559319230&rd=1 > > Hans > > >
[Chevelle-list] Parts Manual on CD
I have seen many of the parts manuals on cd for sale on ebay. Are these cd's worth a darn or would it be a waste of time? Does anybody out there have anything like these? Thanks Ryan
Re: [Chevelle-list] Rear Control arms
Trooper, That is what I was thinking but I know that getting the bushings in is an undertaking let along taking them back out if they were wrong. Thank you for your help. Ryan
Re: [Chevelle-list] Crank pulley issue
Thank Dale for this pictorial on short vs long water pump : http://www.dalesplace.com/htm/information/water_pumps.htm On 6/30/05, Brian Knight <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Krister, can't help with the pulley, but the long/short pump is the length > of the snout where the bearing is. There is a noticeable difference, but I > can't quote the numbers. A long pump sticks out about 1 and a half inches > farther than a short pump, not farther from the block, they would both have > the same distance from the block. > > Brian > > >From: Krister Meister <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >Reply-To: The Chevelle Mailing List > >To: The Chevelle Mailing List > >Subject: [Chevelle-list] Crank pulley issue > >Date: Thu, 30 Jun 2005 11:12:34 -0500 > > > > > > > > > > > >I threw a belt the other day. Replaced it with a new one and checked that > >the alt, fan/water pump and crank pulley were on in the same plane - they > >are. > >Ran the engine and noticed a slight wobble in the crank pulley - acceptable > >or unacceptable? It is bolted on tight to the harmonic balancer and the > >balancer spins true without any wobble.Don't know how the crank pulley > >could or got distorted. > > > > > >Does anyone have a stock crank pulley for a '66 396 single grove (no AC, > >no PS, no PB) or know of a source that carries one? - would like to keep it > >stock. > > > > > >The difference between a short and long water pump is the distance from the > >front of the block - right?. My water pump is right up against the front > >of the block (a 1/4" space at the most) so I imagine mine is a short? > > > >Thanks for the help! > > > >Krister Meister > >Bloomingdale, IL > >'66 SS #'s > > > > > > _ > Don't just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search! > http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/ > > > -- Rick Schaefer 72 TPI El Camino
Re: [Chevelle-list] Need a new crank?
and cheap too - Original Message - From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Sent: Thursday, June 30, 2005 5:53 PM Subject: [Chevelle-list] Need a new crank? And I though a crank for a BBC was heavy :-) http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=34202&item=4559319230&rd=1 Hans
Re: [Chevelle-list] Rookie question "Mallory HEI" - Plug Wires
Thanks for posting that,Steve. I think I'm going to buy that first set of MSD wires for $68. Clint HooperH&H Custom,owner1969 El Camino ProTourer2001 H-D FLHR custom baggerhttp://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Here's some good ones: If you can believe these stats, they are incredible and among the best stats I have seen. http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=partdetail.asp&autofilter=1&Ntt=msd+super+conductor&N=301082&part=MSD%2D31359&autoview=sku&Ntk=KeywordSearch These look fantastic as well in the ohms per foot category and also have a good center conductor wire. http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=partdetail.asp&autofilter=1&Ntt=spark+plug+wires&N=4294864973&part=MOR%2D73800&autoview=sku&Ntk=KeywordSearch These have 500 ohms per foot, which isn't fantastic, but probably better than most. Notice the silver plated copper wire conductor http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=partdetail.asp&autofilter=1&Ntt=copper+wire&N=0&part=ACC%2D8848&autoview=sku&Ntk=KeywordSearch These don't look bad, but I couldn't find the ohms per foot stat even on their web site:: http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=partdetail.asp&autofilter=1&Ntt=taylor+wires&N=301881&Nao=20&part=TAY%2D70654&autoview=sku&Ntk=KeywordSearch I am sure there are more if you research it. While those Mallory MAA-938 look excellent in the ohms per foot category, I don't see what material they use for a conductor. The carbon coated fiberglass conductors are pretty fragile and can't take much abuse. So I'd do more research there if it were me. Things to look for when ordering wires: HEI sets do not have a coil wire so if you don't have HEI make sure you are buying a set that includes a coil wire. Boot angles are critical in some cases. Make sure you know what works for your engine-exhaust combination. You don't want a wire to rest on headers or exhaust manifolds. I like buying a set made to length for the engine to save time and trouble, but if you take the time with a universal kit you could probably save some length and therefore resistance in the wire by making it as short as possible. Use the grease when sliding on boots and inside of boots for sliding on plugs so you don't pull the wire apart when removing it from the plug. Also, use a small amount of anti-sieze compound (available at most auto parts stores and hardware stores) on the spark plug threads and don't over torque. Steve
RE: [Chevelle-list] Crank pulley issue
Krister, can't help with the pulley, but the long/short pump is the length of the snout where the bearing is. There is a noticeable difference, but I can't quote the numbers. A long pump sticks out about 1 and a half inches farther than a short pump, not farther from the block, they would both have the same distance from the block. Brian From: Krister Meister <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Reply-To: The Chevelle Mailing List To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: [Chevelle-list] Crank pulley issue Date: Thu, 30 Jun 2005 11:12:34 -0500 I threw a belt the other day. Replaced it with a new one and checked that the alt, fan/water pump and crank pulley were on in the same plane - they are. Ran the engine and noticed a slight wobble in the crank pulley - acceptable or unacceptable? It is bolted on tight to the harmonic balancer and the balancer spins true without any wobble.Don't know how the crank pulley could or got distorted. Does anyone have a stock crank pulley for a '66 396 single grove (no AC, no PS, no PB) or know of a source that carries one? - would like to keep it stock. The difference between a short and long water pump is the distance from the front of the block - right?. My water pump is right up against the front of the block (a 1/4" space at the most) so I imagine mine is a short? Thanks for the help! Krister Meister Bloomingdale, IL '66 SS #'s _ Dont just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search! http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/
[Chevelle-list] Rookie question "Mallory HEI" - Plug Wires
Here's some good ones: If you can believe these stats, they are incredible and among the best stats I have seen. http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=partdetail.asp&autofilter=1&Ntt=msd+super+conductor&N=301082&part=MSD%2D31359&autoview=sku&Ntk=KeywordSearch These look fantastic as well in the ohms per foot category and also have a good center conductor wire. http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=partdetail.asp&autofilter=1&Ntt=spark+plug+wires&N=4294864973&part=MOR%2D73800&autoview=sku&Ntk=KeywordSearch These have 500 ohms per foot, which isn't fantastic, but probably better than most. Notice the silver plated copper wire conductor http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=partdetail.asp&autofilter=1&Ntt=copper+wire&N=0&part=ACC%2D8848&autoview=sku&Ntk=KeywordSearch These don't look bad, but I couldn't find the ohms per foot stat even on their web site:: http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=partdetail.asp&autofilter=1&Ntt=taylor+wires&N=301881&Nao=20&part=TAY%2D70654&autoview=sku&Ntk=KeywordSearch I am sure there are more if you research it. While those Mallory MAA-938 look excellent in the ohms per foot category, I don't see what material they use for a conductor. The carbon coated fiberglass conductors are pretty fragile and can't take much abuse. So I'd do more research there if it were me. Things to look for when ordering wires: HEI sets do not have a coil wire so if you don't have HEI make sure you are buying a set that includes a coil wire. Boot angles are critical in some cases. Make sure you know what works for your engine-exhaust combination. You don't want a wire to rest on headers or exhaust manifolds. I like buying a set made to length for the engine to save time and trouble, but if you take the time with a universal kit you could probably save some length and therefore resistance in the wire by making it as short as possible. Use the grease when sliding on boots and inside of boots for sliding on plugs so you don't pull the wire apart when removing it from the plug. Also, use a small amount of anti-sieze compound (available at most auto parts stores and hardware stores) on the spark plug threads and don't over torque. Steve - Original Message - From: Pelle Andersson To: [EMAIL PROTECTED];The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: 6/30/2005 3:23:38 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Rookie question "Mallory HEI" What sparkplug wires would you recommend to my Mallory HEI? I plan to buy Mallory MAA-938! Best regards Pelle __Chevelle gearheadshttp://hem.bredband.net/chevellegearheads/ - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Wednesday, June 29, 2005 1:43 PM Subject: [Chevelle-list] Rookie question "Mallory HEI" Yes! Where as the old factory coils had an output of about 20,000 volts, HEI coils have an output of about 40,000 volts. The reason they put the coil inside the distributor cap was to reduce the distance the current had to travel (more energy to the plugs) AND to reduce the likeliness of it arcing. In fact, I believe the reason that the top of the distributor is so much larger than before is to not only house the coil, but to spread out the plug wires, again to reduce the likliness of an stray arc. When they first came out with HEI, it was such an increase in voltage, that I guess plug wire insulation needed to improve to handle it better. Now you will see some 40,000 volt remote coils being used with smaller distributors. But you better use quality wires if you do this OR when you use a remote coil. Of course, the less amount of ohms per foot of wire is a good idea anyway. The reason they started using coiled wire inside a plug wire is to reduce radio interference, but it also increases the distance the electricity has to travel, and therefore increased resistance. So comparing wires and going with the best you can afford is a good idea. You may be making a trade off on performance for better radio suppression. Of course the type of wire used, and it's diameter play key roles in the amount of resistance per foot. You will pay more for better wire most of the time, but you get what you pay for. Copper is one of the best conductors, but silver is better. I believe I seen some silver plated copper one time? I doubt you will see gold wires or platinum, but that's the only material that's better than copper and silver. Any other type material used for the conductor is going to have more resistance per foot. Don't go cheap on plug wires...ever. Also, make sure you know the correct plug gap for your HEI. The increased energy allows a wider plug gap and still the electricity will jump the gap. If anything is off here ( too much resistance in wires, plug gap too wide, bad connections on the coil, etc.) with an increased plug gap, you'll have major problem
[Chevelle-list] Need a new crank?
And I though a crank for a BBC was heavy :-) http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=34202&item=4559319230&rd=1 Hans
Re: [Chevelle-list] Rear Control arms
Ryan, I assume your talking about the upper rear control arms because there is no lip that sticks out on the lowers ( the lips stick in on both sides). If this is the case, the flange on the bushing sits flush on the flat side of the control arm once installed. You should drive the bushing in so it enters the flat side first and then seats on the side with the lip as the flange of the bushing seats against the flat part of the arm. Hope this helps, Trooper - Original Message - From: "Ryan Langstraat" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Chevelle Chat Forum" Sent: Wednesday, June 29, 2005 8:15 PM Subject: [Chevelle-list] Rear Control arms I apologize if I missed a reply on this email: I was wondering what side of the control arms the flange on the new bushing goes against. Does it rest on the lip that sticks out or does it rest on the flat side?? I took pic's when I tore it apart but didnt get in close enough to be able to tell for sure. Live and learn. Thank you for your help guys... Ryan
RE: [Chevelle-list] Rookie question "Mallory HEI"
I just used msd super conductor wires with my mallory hei w/ a coil built in. Wires work good, the best msd have!! Doug From: Pelle Andersson [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, June 30, 2005 3:24 AMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; The Chevelle Mailing ListSubject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Rookie question "Mallory HEI" What sparkplug wires would you recommend to my Mallory HEI? I plan to buy Mallory MAA-938! Best regards Pelle __Chevelle gearheadshttp://hem.bredband.net/chevellegearheads/ - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Wednesday, June 29, 2005 1:43 PM Subject: [Chevelle-list] Rookie question "Mallory HEI" Yes! Where as the old factory coils had an output of about 20,000 volts, HEI coils have an output of about 40,000 volts. The reason they put the coil inside the distributor cap was to reduce the distance the current had to travel (more energy to the plugs) AND to reduce the likeliness of it arcing. In fact, I believe the reason that the top of the distributor is so much larger than before is to not only house the coil, but to spread out the plug wires, again to reduce the likliness of an stray arc. When they first came out with HEI, it was such an increase in voltage, that I guess plug wire insulation needed to improve to handle it better. Now you will see some 40,000 volt remote coils being used with smaller distributors. But you better use quality wires if you do this OR when you use a remote coil. Of course, the less amount of ohms per foot of wire is a good idea anyway. The reason they started using coiled wire inside a plug wire is to reduce radio interference, but it also increases the distance the electricity has to travel, and therefore increased resistance. So comparing wires and going with the best you can afford is a good idea. You may be making a trade off on performance for better radio suppression. Of course the type of wire used, and it's diameter play key roles in the amount of resistance per foot. You will pay more for better wire most of the time, but you get what you pay for. Copper is one of the best conductors, but silver is better. I believe I seen some silver plated copper one time? I doubt you will see gold wires or platinum, but that's the only material that's better than copper and silver. Any other type material used for the conductor is going to have more resistance per foot. Don't go cheap on plug wires...ever. Also, make sure you know the correct plug gap for your HEI. The increased energy allows a wider plug gap and still the electricity will jump the gap. If anything is off here ( too much resistance in wires, plug gap too wide, bad connections on the coil, etc.) with an increased plug gap, you'll have major problems. If the plug gap is not wide enough, you won't get the full benefit of the HEI. One last thing. They started using resistor plugs to reduce the current .which reduced radio noise. Bad idea! A major trade off in electrical system performace for a more quiet radio. There are better ways to reduce radio noise. So when you go get spark plugs, if they have an R in the number, like R44 ..it's a resistor plug. By using a resistor plug, you'll be sacrificing somet of the increases you just made with an HEI system. Try to get an plug without an R in the number. If you get radio noise, consult your local electronics store for options. Steve Does the built in coil replace the std coil? Pelle Andersson
Re: [Chevelle-list] Rookie question "Mallory HEI"
I haven't figured that one out yet,Pelle. Will probably go with either Taylor,Mallory,or MSD wires. Clint HooperH&H Custom,owner1969 El Camino ProTourer2001 H-D FLHR custom baggerhttp://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm - Original Message - From: Pelle Andersson What sparkplug wires would you recommend to my Mallory HEI? I plan to buy Mallory MAA-938! Best regards Pelle __Chevelle gearheadshttp://hem.bredband.net/chevellegearheads/ - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Wednesday, June 29, 2005 1:43 PM Subject: [Chevelle-list] Rookie question "Mallory HEI" Yes! Where as the old factory coils had an output of about 20,000 volts, HEI coils have an output of about 40,000 volts. The reason they put the coil inside the distributor cap was to reduce the distance the current had to travel (more energy to the plugs) AND to reduce the likeliness of it arcing. In fact, I believe the reason that the top of the distributor is so much larger than before is to not only house the coil, but to spread out the plug wires, again to reduce the likliness of an stray arc. When they first came out with HEI, it was such an increase in voltage, that I guess plug wire insulation needed to improve to handle it better. Now you will see some 40,000 volt remote coils being used with smaller distributors. But you better use quality wires if you do this OR when you use a remote coil. Of course, the less amount of ohms per foot of wire is a good idea anyway. The reason they started using coiled wire inside a plug wire is to reduce radio interference, but it also increases the distance the electricity has to travel, and therefore increased resistance. So comparing wires and going with the best you can afford is a good idea. You may be making a trade off on performance for better radio suppression. Of course the type of wire used, and it's diameter play key roles in the amount of resistance per foot. You will pay more for better wire most of the time, but you get what you pay for. Copper is one of the best conductors, but silver is better. I believe I seen some silver plated copper one time? I doubt you will see gold wires or platinum, but that's the only material that's better than copper and silver. Any other type material used for the conductor is going to have more resistance per foot. Don't go cheap on plug wires...ever. Also, make sure you know the correct plug gap for your HEI. The increased energy allows a wider plug gap and still the electricity will jump the gap. If anything is off here ( too much resistance in wires, plug gap too wide, bad connections on the coil, etc.) with an increased plug gap, you'll have major problems. If the plug gap is not wide enough, you won't get the full benefit of the HEI. One last thing. They started using resistor plugs to reduce the current .which reduced radio noise. Bad idea! A major trade off in electrical system performace for a more quiet radio. There are better ways to reduce radio noise. So when you go get spark plugs, if they have an R in the number, like R44 ..it's a resistor plug. By using a resistor plug, you'll be sacrificing somet of the increases you just made with an HEI system. Try to get an plug without an R in the number. If you get radio noise, consult your local electronics store for options. Steve Does the built in coil replace the std coil? Pelle Andersson
[Chevelle-list] Crank pulley issue
I threw a belt the other day. Replaced it with a new one and checked that the alt, fan/water pump and crank pulley were on in the same plane - they are. Ran the engine and noticed a slight wobble in the crank pulley - acceptable or unacceptable? It is bolted on tight to the harmonic balancer and the balancer spins true without any wobble.Don't know how the crank pulley could or got distorted. Does anyone have a stock crank pulley for a '66 396 single grove (no AC, no PS, no PB) or know of a source that carries one? - would like to keep it stock. The difference between a short and long water pump is the distance from the front of the block - right?. My water pump is right up against the front of the block (a 1/4" space at the most) so I imagine mine is a short? Thanks for the help! Krister Meister Bloomingdale, IL '66 SS #'s
Re: [Chevelle-list] carb problems
Bob, Good deal. Glad you figured it out. Matt - Original Message - From: bob howard To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Wednesday, June 29, 2005 10:49 PM Subject: [Chevelle-list] carb problems Well we figured it out!! the carb was not opening all the way and there was float problem in the Holley. and I did got put 15 gals of gas in it to check that problem. we also are having a little trouble timing it as the harm. bal. does not line up with the timing pointer.anyway thanks for all the help, IM on the road to having a great 65 chevelle that is a true SS bad to the bone street car ,with out going broke keeping gas in it !!!wish I knew 10% of what you guys know. You all are great!! Bob Howard Hinton,OK 65 SS No virus found in this incoming message.Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.Version: 7.0.323 / Virus Database: 267.8.6/33 - Release Date: 06/28/2005
Re: [Chevelle-list] Rookie question "Mallory HEI"
What sparkplug wires would you recommend to my Mallory HEI? I plan to buy Mallory MAA-938! Best regards Pelle __Chevelle gearheadshttp://hem.bredband.net/chevellegearheads/ - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Wednesday, June 29, 2005 1:43 PM Subject: [Chevelle-list] Rookie question "Mallory HEI" Yes! Where as the old factory coils had an output of about 20,000 volts, HEI coils have an output of about 40,000 volts. The reason they put the coil inside the distributor cap was to reduce the distance the current had to travel (more energy to the plugs) AND to reduce the likeliness of it arcing. In fact, I believe the reason that the top of the distributor is so much larger than before is to not only house the coil, but to spread out the plug wires, again to reduce the likliness of an stray arc. When they first came out with HEI, it was such an increase in voltage, that I guess plug wire insulation needed to improve to handle it better. Now you will see some 40,000 volt remote coils being used with smaller distributors. But you better use quality wires if you do this OR when you use a remote coil. Of course, the less amount of ohms per foot of wire is a good idea anyway. The reason they started using coiled wire inside a plug wire is to reduce radio interference, but it also increases the distance the electricity has to travel, and therefore increased resistance. So comparing wires and going with the best you can afford is a good idea. You may be making a trade off on performance for better radio suppression. Of course the type of wire used, and it's diameter play key roles in the amount of resistance per foot. You will pay more for better wire most of the time, but you get what you pay for. Copper is one of the best conductors, but silver is better. I believe I seen some silver plated copper one time? I doubt you will see gold wires or platinum, but that's the only material that's better than copper and silver. Any other type material used for the conductor is going to have more resistance per foot. Don't go cheap on plug wires...ever. Also, make sure you know the correct plug gap for your HEI. The increased energy allows a wider plug gap and still the electricity will jump the gap. If anything is off here ( too much resistance in wires, plug gap too wide, bad connections on the coil, etc.) with an increased plug gap, you'll have major problems. If the plug gap is not wide enough, you won't get the full benefit of the HEI. One last thing. They started using resistor plugs to reduce the current .which reduced radio noise. Bad idea! A major trade off in electrical system performace for a more quiet radio. There are better ways to reduce radio noise. So when you go get spark plugs, if they have an R in the number, like R44 ..it's a resistor plug. By using a resistor plug, you'll be sacrificing somet of the increases you just made with an HEI system. Try to get an plug without an R in the number. If you get radio noise, consult your local electronics store for options. Steve Does the built in coil replace the std coil? Pelle Andersson
