I would buy a vacuum gage from your local autoparts store and check your vacuum
pressure. If you get one with a pump you can also check to see if the advance
is any good. They do go bad and you can buy replacments from Napa or other
parts stores. I would also buy a good brand of "stop leak" and follow the
directions to see if it will cure the leak. It might not be a permanent fix
and then again it may. GM dealers put it in new cars to fix small problems
under warranty. It's much easier than pulling the engine just to check the
freeze plugs. My $.02.
Bob Haggard
>
> From: "Mark Hall" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Date: 2008/07/11 Fri PM 09:43:25 EDT
> To:
> Subject: [Chevelle-list] Let's try again
>
> OK - let's try this again(second time to post my questions...)
>
> I've recently gotten around to working on my '67 Chevelle after ignoring for
> it several years (I know... bad bad bad)
>
> I did a LOT of pre-start work on the motor to ensure I didn't cause any
> damage - which seemed to pay off as it started right up the first time.
> (changed oil, drained all the fuel, pre-lubed extensively etc etc)
>
> The motor (built 350) is running pretty good except for two issues that I'd
> like help with;
>
> 1. I 'think' the vacuum advance isn't working - when I put the timing light
> on the engine, the timing doesn't change at all with or without the vacuum
> advance connected... shouldn't it change? Would this cause 'popping' through
> the exhaust at higher RPMs? (~4000rpm) - i.e. no advance for higher rpms?
>
> and
>
> 2. At sustained higher rpm (say 3000rpm+) - there is coolant dripping from
> the bellhousing - I'm assuming this means I've got a bad freeze plug on the
> back of the motor - anyone else ever had this? It doesn't drip unless the
> motor is running up - i.e. no drips at idle. I've verified there are no
> leaks anywhere else on the motor.
>
> Thanks everyone - I hope to have the rust-bucket running and driving good
> enough for next year's Chevelle-a-bration.
>
> How about some responses?
>
> Mark
>
>
>
>
>
