Title: Message
I
just had a 700R4 installed in my 67 that originally had a 4-speed so maybe some
of this will help.
*
NO messaging of the floor pan was necessary. Phoenix Trans said this was
"probably" due to the fact the body mounts were only a few years old and hadn't
sagged like most A-body cars they do the swap in.
*
Existing trans crossmember was simply moved back and two additional holes for
frame mounting were drilled (two already matched up). I think the TH350 is
the same length as my Muncie was (?)
* A
new front yoke was installed but ONLY because the old one was pitted and might
have been leaking.
*
Driveshaft was cut about 3" (don't remember exact amount here) and rebalanced ~
$200
* I
used a B&M Quicksilver because one pin can be removed in the shifter to
allow for shifting into overdrive. All 4 forward gears are
selectable. Whether your existing floor shift will accomodate this or not,
you really should check.
* I
have 3.07 gears and a 27" tall tire. At 55, my RPMs were/are right at 2100
in 1:1 (4th gear on the Muncie and Drive on the 700R4). At 75, my RPMs
were/are 2860 in 1:1 and in overdrive, this drops to about 2000. So, at 75
in O/D, I'm loafing along at the equivalent of 50-55 in Drive. Around town
(or anything below about 70) I keep it in Drive anyway to keep the RPMs up just
a little and distances I drive at that speed aren't too great. For long
trips such as Lawton to KC or Nashville, it'll make a big difference. I'm
very tempted to change the 3.07 for a 3.55 gear. I think with 2.73's I'd
be tempted even more as you may wind up lugging the engine too low even on the
highway in O/D. Just my opinion. I'd do some testing with a RPM
calculator (such as the one I have at http://www.chevellestuff.com/generic/rpm_calculator.htm to
experiment with tire sizes, gear ratios, etc. for a desired speed/RPM
range.
*
The difference in overall gearing between the two is not really that great...O/D
is 0.70 vs. 0.67. Phoenix Trans recommended the 700R4 for my application
(and they build both with only about $50 difference in price) because it's just
as easy a swap and aftermarket and replacement parts are easier to find if it
should happen to break down somewhere outside Resume Speed, Oklahoma since it's
a bit more common transmission. I won't get into the disagreement over
which is stronger...that's for trans experts to decide and both have been built
for some pretty awesome cars, but then again, so has the old standby
Powerglide. The model I bought is their PT700R4SS for up to 450hp and 500
lbs torque for $1495. They have a 200-4R for $1450 for up to 350hp but
they'll build and dyno for your application whatever you
want.
I'm
sure there's a reputable shop or two in KC to build/install one for you. I
chose Phoenix for a couple of reasons, Lawton doesn't have much in the
performance arena that I'd trust and Weatherford, TX is about 150 miles away so
it wasn't much to take the car to them. BTW, they did a very professional
job of installation and even a bit of custom work that most shops probably
wouldn't have tackled.
Anything else I can help with, let me know.
Dale McIntosh TC Gold #92/ACES #1709/NECOA #41 67SS/67 Elky Dale’s Place – My 67 SS
and 67 El Camino ChevelleStuff – Decoding info on 64-72 Chevelles Team 67 – 1967
Chevelle/El Camino Specific Midwest Chevelles – Midwest Chevelle Show Information
-Original Message-From:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Diane
PeppinSent: Tuesday, August 26, 2003 1:41 PMTo: The
Chevelle Mailing ListSubject: [Chevelle-list] 700R4 or 200R on a
400SB?
It looks like
I'm going to convert the 350 turbo to a 700R4, or the 200R. I think it's time
to think about gas mileage. Right now its a 4 bbl Quadrajet Carb, a 2.73
rear end. I have an extra crossmember allegedly for a 400 turbo, and a
spare driveshaft. I need the tranny, and I'd like to move the shift from the
column to the floor. Is there a known procedure for this? What other
parts am I going to need? I have the console with shifter, and a new cable
that connects it to the trans. Any suggestions?
:-Diane
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