Re: [Chevelle-list] was it the heat?

2006-06-25 Thread rmpvsp
Jim,

What was going on here? 

Rich

-Original Message-
From: J. Brady [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Jun 17, 2006 9:05 PM
To: Chevelle Group chevelle-list@chevelles.net
Subject: [Chevelle-list] was it the heat?

Today I pulled the '66 out to take to the local Cruise
Night at Fox Run shopping ctr.  She rode great all the
way to the gathering, started fine when coming home,
and made it home with zero issues. I shut it off to
take some stuff inside, and came back out about 20 min
later to start it and no luck.  It just clicked.  As
soon as I hooked up jumper cables to her, she fired
right up, so when it was running I checked the battery
and it showed that it was at 13.8 volts, which I think
means plenty of charge is coming from the alternator. 
The battery was new as of October 2005, the starter is
a protorque ceramic starter, and this is the first day
in a looong time that I've ever had a starting
problem.  So I must ask, was it just b/c of the heat
today (was around 94 here)?

Or, should more than 13.8 volts be showing when the
car is running?  I know the heat affects batteries as
well as engines, so I'm hoping that was the case.  Or
is it maybe a crappy battery a bit early?  It's a
DEKKA, always thought they were pretty good.

Thanks as always,

Jim 
'66 Malibu

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[Chevelle-list] was it the heat?

2006-06-17 Thread J. Brady
Today I pulled the '66 out to take to the local Cruise
Night at Fox Run shopping ctr.  She rode great all the
way to the gathering, started fine when coming home,
and made it home with zero issues. I shut it off to
take some stuff inside, and came back out about 20 min
later to start it and no luck.  It just clicked.  As
soon as I hooked up jumper cables to her, she fired
right up, so when it was running I checked the battery
and it showed that it was at 13.8 volts, which I think
means plenty of charge is coming from the alternator. 
The battery was new as of October 2005, the starter is
a protorque ceramic starter, and this is the first day
in a looong time that I've ever had a starting
problem.  So I must ask, was it just b/c of the heat
today (was around 94 here)?

Or, should more than 13.8 volts be showing when the
car is running?  I know the heat affects batteries as
well as engines, so I'm hoping that was the case.  Or
is it maybe a crappy battery a bit early?  It's a
DEKKA, always thought they were pretty good.

Thanks as always,

Jim 
'66 Malibu

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Re: [Chevelle-list] was it the heat?

2006-06-17 Thread John Nasta
Having your timing too far advanced can cause hot start problems. I would
also have the battery load tested. Most places will do that for free.



-Original Message-
From: J. Brady [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, June 17, 2006 9:06 PM
To: Chevelle Group
Subject: [Chevelle-list] was it the heat?

Today I pulled the '66 out to take to the local Cruise
Night at Fox Run shopping ctr.  She rode great all the
way to the gathering, started fine when coming home,
and made it home with zero issues. I shut it off to
take some stuff inside, and came back out about 20 min
later to start it and no luck.  It just clicked.  As
soon as I hooked up jumper cables to her, she fired
right up, so when it was running I checked the battery
and it showed that it was at 13.8 volts, which I think
means plenty of charge is coming from the alternator.
The battery was new as of October 2005, the starter is
a protorque ceramic starter, and this is the first day
in a looong time that I've ever had a starting
problem.  So I must ask, was it just b/c of the heat
today (was around 94 here)?

Or, should more than 13.8 volts be showing when the
car is running?  I know the heat affects batteries as
well as engines, so I'm hoping that was the case.  Or
is it maybe a crappy battery a bit early?  It's a
DEKKA, always thought they were pretty good.

Thanks as always,

Jim
'66 Malibu

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Re: [Chevelle-list] was it the heat?

2006-06-17 Thread RJ Winkler
Don't think it will be the timing...if it just clicked its an electrical
problem, usually due to a low battery or dead starter but since your starter
kicked over sounds like the battery.  Did you check the volts before or
after you got the car running? The battery will show plenty of charge when
it runs but it might lose it once the car is shut off for a little while.
Sounds like you have a defective battery but the best way to find out is
just check it in the morning or something before you start her up.  -rj

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of John Nasta
Sent: Saturday, June 17, 2006 9:21 PM
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] was it the heat?

Having your timing too far advanced can cause hot start problems. I would
also have the battery load tested. Most places will do that for free.



-Original Message-
From: J. Brady [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, June 17, 2006 9:06 PM
To: Chevelle Group
Subject: [Chevelle-list] was it the heat?

Today I pulled the '66 out to take to the local Cruise
Night at Fox Run shopping ctr.  She rode great all the
way to the gathering, started fine when coming home,
and made it home with zero issues. I shut it off to
take some stuff inside, and came back out about 20 min
later to start it and no luck.  It just clicked.  As
soon as I hooked up jumper cables to her, she fired
right up, so when it was running I checked the battery
and it showed that it was at 13.8 volts, which I think
means plenty of charge is coming from the alternator.
The battery was new as of October 2005, the starter is
a protorque ceramic starter, and this is the first day
in a looong time that I've ever had a starting
problem.  So I must ask, was it just b/c of the heat
today (was around 94 here)?

Or, should more than 13.8 volts be showing when the
car is running?  I know the heat affects batteries as
well as engines, so I'm hoping that was the case.  Or
is it maybe a crappy battery a bit early?  It's a
DEKKA, always thought they were pretty good.

Thanks as always,

Jim
'66 Malibu

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Re: [Chevelle-list] was it the heat?

2006-06-17 Thread Shawn Price
Just sounds like a loose battery cable. Clean and tighten the  
terminals on the battery, and the ground and starter. I've had the  
same issue with my '69 and my '94 Z71. It will just click, then no  
power... wiggle the cables and everything is just fine.


Shawn

On Jun 17, 2006, at 11:24 PM, RJ Winkler wrote:

Don't think it will be the timing...if it just clicked its an  
electrical
problem, usually due to a low battery or dead starter but since  
your starter
kicked over sounds like the battery.  Did you check the volts  
before or
after you got the car running? The battery will show plenty of  
charge when
it runs but it might lose it once the car is shut off for a little  
while.
Sounds like you have a defective battery but the best way to find  
out is
just check it in the morning or something before you start her up.   
-rj


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of John Nasta
Sent: Saturday, June 17, 2006 9:21 PM
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] was it the heat?

Having your timing too far advanced can cause hot start problems. I  
would

also have the battery load tested. Most places will do that for free.



-Original Message-
From: J. Brady [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, June 17, 2006 9:06 PM
To: Chevelle Group
Subject: [Chevelle-list] was it the heat?

Today I pulled the '66 out to take to the local Cruise
Night at Fox Run shopping ctr.  She rode great all the
way to the gathering, started fine when coming home,
and made it home with zero issues. I shut it off to
take some stuff inside, and came back out about 20 min
later to start it and no luck.  It just clicked.  As
soon as I hooked up jumper cables to her, she fired
right up, so when it was running I checked the battery
and it showed that it was at 13.8 volts, which I think
means plenty of charge is coming from the alternator.
The battery was new as of October 2005, the starter is
a protorque ceramic starter, and this is the first day
in a looong time that I've ever had a starting
problem.  So I must ask, was it just b/c of the heat
today (was around 94 here)?

Or, should more than 13.8 volts be showing when the
car is running?  I know the heat affects batteries as
well as engines, so I'm hoping that was the case.  Or
is it maybe a crappy battery a bit early?  It's a
DEKKA, always thought they were pretty good.

Thanks as always,

Jim
'66 Malibu

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Re: [Chevelle-list] was it the heat?

2006-06-17 Thread Bill Lessenberry
OR, you have excessive voltage drop between the ignition switch and 
the starter from poor connections, or a weak starter solenoid that 
won't make contact when it gets hot down there.  Here's a relatively 
easy check; install another wire to the S terminal on your solenoid 
and run it where you can touch the other end of the wire to your + 
battery post, but leave it hanging where it's easy to find.  Route 
the wire away from the exhaust so it won't burn.  The next time it 
won't start, BE SURE THE CAR IS IN PARK OR NEUTRAL, then touch the 
end of the wire to the + post.  If the starter spins, then you have a 
voltage drop problem.  If it just clicks, then you have a solenoid or 
battery issue.  You don't have to have the key ON when you do the 
test, you're sending current directly to the starter, but if the key 
is ON, the engine will start.

BillL




At 10:24 PM 6/17/2006, you wrote:

Don't think it will be the timing...if it just clicked its an electrical
problem, usually due to a low battery or dead starter but since your starter
kicked over sounds like the battery.  Did you check the volts before or
after you got the car running? The battery will show plenty of charge when
it runs but it might lose it once the car is shut off for a little while.
Sounds like you have a defective battery but the best way to find out is
just check it in the morning or something before you start her up.  -rj





Re: [Chevelle-list] 69 Chevelle Air Heat Question

2003-11-26 Thread Rollerclutch
 Is there a graphic printed on the the control head that might have said "AC" kinda like [-AC-_] 
 MAX position is for maximum cooldown. This means air conditioned air is recirculated back past the evaporator again. This is done by opening a Recirculation door, and closing off the cowl air door. The recirculation door is usually near the passengers feet. The reason for this is to reduce the load on the system. The a/c compressor will be on in the MAX position. The water the the heater core will be cut off by the water valve in MAX position. ( under the hood) 
 NORM position means the system is taking in air from the cowl and running it past the evaporator and into the passenger. This is normal air conditioning. The a/c compressor will be on in the NORM position. The water to the heater core will be allowed to flow. It is possible to have hot air conditioned air in NORM.
 DEICE on a car with air conditioning the compressor will come on. The air conditioning process dries the air. This clears up a frosted windsheild very fast. Most of the water in the air gets stuck on the ice cold condencer fins. This dried out air gets run on to the blend door which is controlled by the TEMP lever. From there it is run past the heater core or through the heater core, depending on how hot you want the air to blow. 
 Does yours have a VENT or a HEAT position? The compressor should not come on in these positions. There should be a lever position which allows HEAT and VENT air to be blown inside the car without the compressor comming on. 
VENT traditionally means that the air will blow out of the dash, regardless of temp position. Does yours have the astro ventilation balls on the ends of the panel?That is where VENT air should come out. 
HEAT usually means the air will blow out the floor discharge opening. Mines in the direct center of the floor above the transmission tunnel. The compressor should not come on in the VENT and HEAT selections. 


[Chevelle-list] 69 Chevelle Air Heat Question

2003-11-25 Thread 38 Coupe
Hi folks, I have a 1969 big block Chevelle with air. I have noticed that 
when I move the top slider to max or norm the compressor kick in. However, 
it stays on even when I continue to slide it all the way over to hot. Is 
this normal? I would assume that the compresser should switch off when you 
slide it all the way over to Hot. If its not normal any suggestions at what 
I should look for. Thanks

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Re: [Chevelle-list] 69 Chevelle Air Heat Question

2003-11-25 Thread Rollerclutch
  Air Conditioned Air will defrost a windsheild very effectively. The air has been dried out. On most American cars it is normal for the A/C compressor to kick on when the Defrost (De Ice) selection is made. This forces the air past the evaporator where it is dehumidifyed or "conditioned". The air is then sent past the blend door where part or all of it blown past the heater core depending on how hot you want the air. 


Re: [Chevelle-list] 69 Chevelle Air Heat Question

2003-11-25 Thread Zieg72
Mine kicks on in Max, Norm, and Defrost no matter where the temp slide is
set.
Carl
- Original Message - 
From: 38 Coupe [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, November 25, 2003 3:28 PM
Subject: [Chevelle-list] 69 Chevelle Air  Heat Question


 Hi folks, I have a 1969 big block Chevelle with air. I have noticed that
 when I move the top slider to max or norm the compressor kick in. However,
 it stays on even when I continue to slide it all the way over to hot. Is
 this normal? I would assume that the compresser should switch off when you
 slide it all the way over to Hot. If its not normal any suggestions at
what
 I should look for. Thanks

 _
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Re: [Chevelle-list] 69 Chevelle Air Heat Question

2003-11-25 Thread MICRLASER
It's working the way it is supposed to.  Putting in on any of the A/C settings will 
make it stay on regardless of the temperature setting.

Tom



Re: [Chevelle-list] 69 Chevelle Air Heat Question

2003-11-25 Thread 38 Coupe
Thanks for the replies. Now that I looked at it again, I see the problem. 
The middle slider that says A/C on the left, BI-LEVEL in the middle and 
HEATER on the right won't slide all the way to the right. It will only go as 
far as BI-LEVEL. This must be why the compressor stays on. Is there an way 
to fix the slider so that it will move all the way to the right (HEATER 
position). Thanks again.


From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Reply-To: The Chevelle Mailing List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] (The Chevelle Mailing List)
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 69 Chevelle Air  Heat Question
Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2003 20:16:43 -0500
It's working the way it is supposed to.  Putting in on any of the A/C 
settings will make it stay on regardless of the temperature setting.

Tom

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[Chevelle-list] RE: [OT] Arizona Heat

2003-08-14 Thread Rodney.
Title: Message



It's 
funny.. the older I get the hotter it seems :) Not that I'm old (26), but 
I can remember playing basketball all day out in the sun in the summer in 8th 
grade and it was no big deal. Now I'm out there for an hour and I'm ready 
to sit inside in the a/c the rest of the day. 

Rodney. 
71 
Chevelle
El 
Mirage, AZ


  
  -Original Message-From: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  On Behalf Of WayneSent: Monday, August 11, 2003 9:49 
  AMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: Re: 
  [Chevelle-list] The Race is on! - [Was: Blown Head Gasket PART 
  2]
  155 Deg 
  :(  My Daughter is moving to AZ on the 
  23rd of this mo.
  I keep pointing out the 
  Loonnng duration of 100 plus degrees
  you guys have had... She's 
  wilting here in PA at 80 to 85 But she say's
  Don't worry dad .. " It's DRY 
  HEAT" out there you don't feel HOT..
  
  IMO 110 115 is 
  HOT 
  
  
  
  
  
- Original Message - 
From: 
Rodney. 

To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 

Sent: Monday, August 11, 2003 12:24 
PM
Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] The Race 
is on! - [Was: Blown Head Gasket PART 2]

Hey Sarge, 
Glad to hear you got yours figured out. I've been coughing up a 
lung and generally feeling miserable, so I haven't been out there 
much. I spent a few hours one night. I'm ready to take the 
intake off, and that's where I stopped. No sense in killing myself 
over it. What a miserable time of year to be doing this. It's 
really hard to make myself gowork on it when it's 115 deg. outside 
even when I'm not sick. I'll let you know what I find out when I get 
the heads off... 


Rodney. 
71 
Chevelle
El 
Mirage, AZ 


  
  -Original Message-From: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Fruhauf 
  Kerry A SSgt 3CS/SCBSSent: Monday, August 11, 2003 9:04 
  AMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: RE: 
  [Chevelle-list] The Race is on! - [Was: Blown Head Gasket PART 
  2]
  Well, I got my car running again. After 
  replacing half of the wires under the hood, to include all the ignition 
  wiring, I had all but given up. I had been disconnecting and 
  reconnecting the battery about 50 times, each time I replaced a wire, and 
  the terminal clamp was getting pretty beat up. So, I ran down to the 
  parts store, spent 85 cents, and 3 minutes to put the new connector on, 
  and presto, it works great now. Apparently, the primary ground 
  wire was getting corrosion on it, just enough to cause the problem. 
  The silver lining to the whole story is now I have new wiring, I know what 
  wire runs where now, and while I was already running a hundred wires, I 
  ran a fuel pump cutoff switch, and hid it way up under the dash, as a 
  theft deterrant. I feel a little safer parking it now. 
  
  
  How's your car coming along Rodney? you get 
  it running again? Did the heads check out OK at the machine 
  shop?
  
  
  
  SARGE
  69SS/Clone-Original Message-From: Fruhauf Kerry A SSgt 
  3CS/SCBS [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: 
  Thursday, August 07, 2003 8:04 AMTo: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: [Chevelle-list] The Race is 
  on! - [Was: Blown Head Gasket PART 2]
  
Well, I'm still mumbling in the garage every night, fiddling with 
the electrics. I keep getting closer. I actually had it 
working 2 nights ago, but once I put everything back together, It 
shorted again. That's when I called it a night. I just 
picked up a whole mess of connectors and wire. I'm going to keep 
plugging away at it for a little while before I break down and buy the 
harnesses. I have it isolated to the passenger side front 
corner. I think it's one of the wires going to the lights. 
After I reran all the ignition wires, I found that it's not the starter 
that is causing the problem, it's just whenever there is any large 
sudden drain from the battery. I clicked on the bright lights and 
it does the same thing. I'll be working on it again tonight. 
(If my wife doesn't complain about it too much.) :) She 
seems to think her only competition is my Chevelle. Don't tell 
her, but it's no competition, really! ;-) So I guess the race 
continues..

Good luck with yours, hopefully we both cross the finish line at 
the same time. I'm keeping my fingers crossed for you, hoping it's 
not a cracked head. If it is, replace your thermostat. 
That's what wrecked my head. The stat was brand new, too. It 
just never opened. Bummer, live and learn, I 
guess.



SARGE
69SS/Clone-Original Message-From: Rodney.