Stus-List Gary - Pursuit racing

2012-11-14 Thread Hoyt, Mike
Gary
 
How do you determine start times for each boat in your pursuit races?  We have 
tried a couple of methods and all seem a bit problematic but tremendous fun.  
Our sailors love pursuit format but it is a bit of work beforeheand for the 
Race Committee
 
Mike



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary Nylander
Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2012 5:49 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Keel mods vs Phrf Rating


For our JAM races we have moved to Pursuit racing. This is a good way to 
decrease anxiety on the line. 
 
We tried adjustments for cruising equipment (dodgers, biminis, BBQ, etc.) but 
it didn't seem to attract a bunch of newbies. Maybe it is just that we have a 
limited supply of local boats
 
Would be interested in your list, though.
 
Gary Nylander
gnylan...@atlanticbb.net
 
Thanks.

- Original Message - 
From: Martin DeYoung mailto:mdeyo...@deyoungmfg.com  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2012 4:40 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Keel mods vs Phrf Rating


The Seattle Yacht Club Cruiser/Racer class gives rating credits for 
cruising bottoms, old sails, roller furling, windless/anchor on bow etc.



The C/R class was created to increase participation.  Non competitive 
sailors and boats will often show up if the class is relaxed about the starting 
tactics (less shouting and close quarters) and promotes courtesy in crossing 
situations.  SYC is flexible on shorting the course in very light air and we 
take ½ way times in case the wind shuts off entirely.



Some of the participants take full advantage of the cruising credits.  
I may have a list of what has been offered is any CC listers are thinking of a 
similar get out the boat effort.  Let me know if the info is wanted.



In recent years there have been 4 or 5 boats (incl Calypso) that are 
sailed with intent to be C/R class competitive with limited use of the cruiser 
rating discounts.  Owners new to racing or whose boats were never conceived as 
a race boat can add more than a dozen seconds to the handicap to help move up 
the score card.  Most years there have been 12 to 15 boats total in the C/R 
class.



Martin





From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
Hoyt, Mike
Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2012 12:25 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Keel mods vs Phrf Rating



OK - I was afraid you meant Flaking, peeling, ignored and cratered 
because I dont care.











From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
Martin DeYoung
Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2012 3:36 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Keel mods vs Phrf Rating

Ablative paint with small blisters, keel not faired in the last 2 
decades, some slime present from lack of cleaning.



Or, those little red bumps that itch after sitting in salt water day 
after day on a long cruise.



Martin





From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
Hoyt, Mike
Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2012 11:21 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Keel mods vs Phrf Rating



Martin



What is a cruising bottom?







From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
Martin DeYoung
Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2012 3:11 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Keel mods vs Phrf Rating

 We would kick his a-- going to weather in medium to heavy air and 
some sea...



PHRF-NW rates Calypso at 90, a Soveral 33 at 93, and a Baba 40 (tall 
rig) at 165.  The Soveral is full race and well sailed (+- 7,000lbs).  The Baba 
is cruise/race and participates in many races both serious and fun with a 
dedicated crew, has mixed age sails and a 22' spinnaker pole.  Calypso is set 
up for race/cruise style sailing with older sails (roller furler and spin sock) 
and a mix of crew experience (+- 24,000lbs).



The Soveral and the Baba are equal to or (mostly) faster than Calypso 
in light air and flat water.  Throw in some medium air and chop, the fully 
crewed Soveral is still faster but the Baba is only as fast down wind.



In a heavy air (25 to 35 TWS) race a few years ago the Baba (started 15 
minute earlier) and Soveral beat Calypso to the leeward mark (Foulweather Bluff 
buoy +- 12 mile leg).  As we headed upwind the Soveral was low and slow as the 
crew could not keep the boat flat, the 

Re: Stus-List Gary - Pursuit racing

2012-11-14 Thread Dennis C.
Mike,

We do pursuits in my area also. We use set courses so the distance is known. 
You have to choose a maximum handicap and go from there.

Go to Corinthians.org click on the sailing instructions link.  Then look at 
the staggered start documents. 

Dennis C.

Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 14, 2012, at 7:15 AM, Hoyt, Mike mike.h...@impgroup.com wrote:

 Gary
  
 How do you determine start times for each boat in your pursuit races?  We 
 have tried a couple of methods and all seem a bit problematic but tremendous 
 fun.  Our sailors love pursuit format but it is a bit of work beforeheand for 
 the Race Committee
  
 Mike
 
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary  
 Nylander
 Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2012 5:49 PM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Keel mods vs Phrf Rating
 
 For our JAM races we have moved to Pursuit racing. This is a good way to 
 decrease anxiety on the line.
  
 We tried adjustments for cruising equipment (dodgers, biminis, BBQ, etc.) but 
 it didn't seem to attract a bunch of newbies. Maybe it is just that we have a 
 limited supply of local boats
  
 Would be interested in your list, though.
  
 Gary Nylander
 gnylan...@atlanticbb.net
  
 Thanks.
 - Original Message -
 From: Martin DeYoung
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2012 4:40PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Keel mods vs PhrfRating
 
 The Seattle Yacht Club Cruiser/Racer class gives rating credits for cruising 
 bottoms, old sails, roller furling, windless/anchor on bow etc.
 The C/R class was created to increase participation.  Non competitive sailors 
 and boats will often show up if the class is relaxed about the starting 
 tactics (less shouting and close quarters) and promotes courtesy in crossing 
 situations.  SYC is flexible on shorting the course in very light air and we 
 take ½ way times in case the wind shuts off entirely.
 Some of the participants take full advantage of the cruising credits.  I may 
 have a list of what has been offered is any CC listers are thinking of a 
 similar “get out the boat” effort.  Let me know if the info is wanted.
 In recent years there have been 4 or 5 boats (incl Calypso) that are sailed 
 with intent to be C/R class competitive with limited use of the cruiser 
 rating discounts. Owners new to racing or whose boats were never 
 conceived as a race boat canadd more than a dozen seconds to the handicap 
 to help move up the score card.  Most years there have been 12 to 15 boats 
 total in the C/R class.
 Martin
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt, Mike
 Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2012 12:25 PM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Keel mods vs PhrfRating
 OK - I was afraid you meant Flaking, peeling, ignored and cratered because I 
 dont care.
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Martin 
 DeYoung
 Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2012 3:36PM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Keel mods vs PhrfRating
 
 Ablative paint with small blisters, keel not faired in the last 2 decades, 
 some slime present from lack of cleaning.
 Or, those little red bumps that itch after sitting in salt water day after 
 day on a long cruise.
 Martin
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt, Mike
 Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2012 11:21 AM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Keel mods vs PhrfRating
 Martin
 What is a cruising bottom?
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Martin 
 DeYoung
 Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2012 3:11PM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Keel mods vs PhrfRating
 
  We would kick his a-- going to weather in medium to heavy air and some 
  sea…
 PHRF-NW rates Calypso at 90, a Soveral 33 at 93, and a Baba 40 (tall rig) at 
 165.  The Soveral is full race and well sailed (+- 7,000lbs).  The Baba is 
 cruise/race and participates in many races both serious and fun with a 
 dedicated crew, has mixed age sails and a 22’ spinnaker pole.  Calypso is set 
 up for race/cruise style sailing with older sails (roller furler and spin 
 sock) and a mix of crew experience (+- 24,000lbs).
 The Soveral and the Baba are equal to or (mostly) faster than Calypso in 
 light air and flat water.  Throw in some medium air and chop, the fully 
 crewed Soveral is still faster but the Baba is only as fast down wind.
 In a heavy air (25 to 35 TWS) race a few years ago the Baba (started 15 
 minute earlier) and Soveral beat Calypso to the leeward mark (Foulweather 
 Bluff buoy +- 12 mile leg).  As we headed upwind the Soveral was low and slow 
 as the crew could not keep the boat flat, the Baba was having trouble going 
 to weather and difficulty in completing a tack (the lee shore was looming).  
 Calypso finally got conditions that favor a 1969/70 design that enjoys a good 
 blow.  We used a #3 and 1 reef in the 

Re: Stus-List Gary - Pursuit racing

2012-11-14 Thread Indigo
Dennis,

We do a couple of pursuit races too – both with courses that are set well in
advance so the distances are known.  I am not sure I understand your comment
about choosing a maximum handicap.  We find out ahead of the race who plans
to participate and then work the time differences starting with the slowest
(highest PHRF) boat.  Each participant is then given their starting time. Of
course once the course is set you cannot “shorten” course or change marks!

 

To introduce more “fun” into one of these races that has been held every
year since goodness knows when, we allow the boats to use their engine for a
total of 5 minutes at any point in the race – obviously on an honor system.

 

Jonathan

Indigo 35-3 -  

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C.
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2012 8:45 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Gary - Pursuit racing

 

Mike,

 

We do pursuits in my area also. We use set courses so the distance is known.
You have to choose a maximum handicap and go from there.

 

Go to Corinthians.org click on the sailing instructions link.  Then look
at the staggered start documents. 

 

Dennis C.


Sent from my iPhone


On Nov 14, 2012, at 7:15 AM, Hoyt, Mike mike.h...@impgroup.com wrote:

Gary

 

How do you determine start times for each boat in your pursuit races?  We
have tried a couple of methods and all seem a bit problematic but tremendous
fun.  Our sailors love pursuit format but it is a bit of work beforeheand
for the Race Committee

 

Mike

 


  _  


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary
Nylander
Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2012 5:49 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Keel mods vs Phrf Rating

For our JAM races we have moved to Pursuit racing. This is a good way to
decrease anxiety on the line. 

 

We tried adjustments for cruising equipment (dodgers, biminis, BBQ, etc.)
but it didn't seem to attract a bunch of newbies. Maybe it is just that we
have a limited supply of local boats

 

Would be interested in your list, though.

 

Gary Nylander

gnylan...@atlanticbb.net

 

Thanks.

- Original Message - 

From: Martin mailto:mdeyo...@deyoungmfg.com  DeYoung 

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2012 4:40 PM

Subject: Re: Stus-List Keel mods vs Phrf Rating

 

The Seattle Yacht Club Cruiser/Racer class gives rating credits for cruising
bottoms, old sails, roller furling, windless/anchor on bow etc.

The C/R class was created to increase participation.  Non competitive
sailors and boats will often show up if the class is relaxed about the
starting tactics (less shouting and close quarters) and promotes courtesy in
crossing situations.  SYC is flexible on shorting the course in very light
air and we take ½ way times in case the wind shuts off entirely.

Some of the participants take full advantage of the cruising credits.  I may
have a list of what has been offered is any CC listers are thinking of a
similar “get out the boat” effort.  Let me know if the info is wanted.

In recent years there have been 4 or 5 boats (incl Calypso) that are sailed
with intent to be C/R class competitive with limited use of the cruiser
rating discounts.  Owners new to racing or whose boats were never conceived
as a race boat can add more than a dozen seconds to the handicap to help
move up the score card.  Most years there have been 12 to 15 boats total in
the C/R class.

Martin


  _  


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt,
Mike
Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2012 12:25 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Keel mods vs Phrf Rating

OK - I was afraid you meant Flaking, peeling, ignored and cratered because
I dont care.



  _  

size=3 width=100% align=center tabindex=-1 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Martin
DeYoung
Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2012 3:36 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Keel mods vs Phrf Rating

Ablative paint with small blisters, keel not faired in the last 2 decades,
some slime present from lack of cleaning.

Or, those little red bumps that itch after sitting in salt water day after
day on a long cruise.

Martin


  _  


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt,
Mike
Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2012 11:21 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Keel mods vs Phrf Rating

Martin

What is a cruising bottom?



  _  


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Martin
DeYoung
Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2012 3:11 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Keel mods vs Phrf Rating

 We would kick his a-- going to weather in medium to heavy air and some
sea…

PHRF-NW rates Calypso at 90, a Soveral 33 at 93, and a Baba 40 (tall rig) at
165.  The Soveral is full race and well sailed (+- 7,000lbs).  The Baba is
cruise/race and 

Re: Stus-List Gary - Pursuit racing

2012-11-14 Thread Don Siddall
At a YC in Sydney Australia a race is held every week throughout most of 
the year. Your start time, based on your recent performance, is posted 
on their website. The start line is just off the club house. A large 
digital clock, which is visible from the starting area, is used as a 
reference. Of course it is all on the honor system.


I was most impressed with the fact that they start at 1:00 p.m. on 
Friday afternoon - very civilized. It's easy to develop racing 
expertise, but hard to explain so many long Friday afternoon meetings.


Don

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Re: Stus-List Headliner access panels

2012-11-14 Thread Gary Nylander
Where do you get it?

Gary
30-1 in the boondocks on the Eastern Shore of Maryland - Lowe's nearby, but 
over 50 miles to anything else
  - Original Message - 
  From: Sam Salter 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2012 8:51 PM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Headliner access panels


  Velcro might not be the answer, but I'm almost positive this will:

  
http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/3M-Industrial/Adhesives/Promotions-New-Products/Reclosable-Fasteners/

  It's like super industrial strength velcro.

  It's not cheap but it is reusable. I've not used it for headliners but it 
secures my Velocitek Speed Puck to the mast (about 1 lb) with a small piece 
about  1 1/2 x 4. This stuff bites! We take it all over the world when we 
sail and it's conquered big winds and big seas.

  sam :-)
  C7C 26  Liquorice
  Ghost Lake  Alberta


  On 13/11/12 4:42 PM, Jake Brodersen wrote: 
Joel,



I plan on replacing some of mine.  I am thinking about using plastic 
sheeting.  I stripped of the peeling vinyl a long time ago and just painted the 
wood.  It is only 1/8 thick.  ¼ plywood would be hard to keep up there using 
the stock Velcro.  I might screw my next set on, as the Velcro just doesn't 
seem to work well, especially in rough conditions.



Jake



Jake Brodersen

CC 35 Mk-III

Midnight Mistress

Hampton VA





From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel 
Aronson
Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2012 1:43 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Headliner access panels



Several of the panels have delaminated.  1/4 inch plywood would be too 
thick.  Is there a better replacement?  Has anyone either re-used the vinyl or 
found a replacement?  What glue would you use?



Thanks!




-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551


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--


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  CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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Re: Stus-List Headliner access panels

2012-11-14 Thread D.Drake
I picked up a pack at West Marine several years ago .Not cheap but works 
well

On 14/11/2012 10:44 AM, Gary Nylander wrote:

Where do you get it?
Gary
30-1 in the boondocks on the Eastern Shore of Maryland - Lowe's 
nearby, but over 50 miles to anything else


- Original Message -
*From:* Sam Salter mailto:sam.c.sal...@gmail.com
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Sent:* Tuesday, November 13, 2012 8:51 PM
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Headliner access panels

Velcro might not be the answer, but I'm almost positive this will:


http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/3M-Industrial/Adhesives/Promotions-New-Products/Reclosable-Fasteners/

It's like super industrial strength velcro.

It's not cheap but it is reusable. I've not used it for headliners
but it secures my Velocitek Speed Puck to the mast (about 1 lb)
with a small piece about  1 1/2 x 4. This stuff bites! We take
it all over the world when we sail and it's conquered big winds
and big seas.

sam :-)
C7C 26  Liquorice
Ghost Lake  Alberta


On 13/11/12 4:42 PM, Jake Brodersen wrote:


Joel,

I plan on replacing some of mine.  I am thinking about using
plastic sheeting.  I stripped of the peeling vinyl a long time
ago and just painted the wood.  It is only 1/8 thick.  ¼
plywood would be hard to keep up there using the stock Velcro.  I
might screw my next set on, as the Velcro just doesn't seem to
work well, especially in rough conditions.

Jake

*/Jake Brodersen/*

*/CC 35 Mk-III/*

*/Midnight Mistress/*

*/Hampton VA/*

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf
Of *Joel Aronson
*Sent:* Tuesday, November 13, 2012 1:43 PM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Subject:* Stus-List Headliner access panels

Several of the panels have delaminated.  1/4 inch plywood would
be too thick.  Is there a better replacement?  Has anyone either
re-used the vinyl or found a replacement?  What glue would you use?

Thanks!

-- 
Joel

301 541 8551


___
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http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com



___
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CnC-List@cnc-list.com



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--
D.Drake 73 Jensen Healey CC 26
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Re: Stus-List Gary - Pursuit racing

2012-11-14 Thread Gary Nylander
We have just a few predetermined courses for Pursuit. One member has a program 
with each boat (small fleet - maybe 15 boats in his program) and the starting 
setbacks for the courses. We have one boat which is our highest handicap boat ( 
a fiberglass copy of a Hereschoff Fish - handicap 350 (arbitrary) - with 
battery power) and we use him (whether he's there or not) as the starting boat. 
The RC has a copy. 

Frankly, with the copy of the program sheet in hand, we are pretty well 
self-governing. We all know that the Herreschoff starts it at noon (or one, or 
whatever) and the Thunderbird (198) goes off at his time, then me (174) then 
the Beneteau (162) then the CC 115 (78) and so forth. New folks get their 
sheet and fit in. We have had a few races where we started ourselves - no RC. 
If we are using the four mile course, I start at about 12 minutes after the 
hour, the Beneteau starts 48 seconds later, etc. And, because you have the 
sheet, there are a few other boats watching, so no 'fudging'.

We also are growing fond of the Pursuit plan - but still have one race a year 
which has a LeMans start. For those of you who don't follow sports car racing, 
that means (in the old days) that the drivers were out of their cars, ran 
across the track, jumped in, started them up and blasted off. Nowadays that is 
impossible, because it takes a long time to hook up the cool suits, radios, 
belts, etc. 

What we do is everybody anchors on the starting line, sails down and crew down 
below (the Hereschoff puts a tarp over the crew, as there is no down below). 
At the gun, sails up, anchor up, and away we go. It is good for laughs.

Gary
  - Original Message - 
  From: Hoyt, Mike 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2012 8:15 AM
  Subject: Stus-List Gary - Pursuit racing


  Gary

  How do you determine start times for each boat in your pursuit races?  We 
have tried a couple of methods and all seem a bit problematic but tremendous 
fun.  Our sailors love pursuit format but it is a bit of work beforeheand for 
the Race Committee

  Mike



--
  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary 
Nylander
  Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2012 5:49 PM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Keel mods vs Phrf Rating


  For our JAM races we have moved to Pursuit racing. This is a good way to 
decrease anxiety on the line. 

  We tried adjustments for cruising equipment (dodgers, biminis, BBQ, etc.) but 
it didn't seem to attract a bunch of newbies. Maybe it is just that we have a 
limited supply of local boats

  Would be interested in your list, though.

  Gary Nylander
  gnylan...@atlanticbb.net

  Thanks.
- Original Message - 
From: Martin DeYoung 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2012 4:40 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Keel mods vs Phrf Rating


The Seattle Yacht Club Cruiser/Racer class gives rating credits for 
cruising bottoms, old sails, roller furling, windless/anchor on bow etc.


The C/R class was created to increase participation.  Non competitive 
sailors and boats will often show up if the class is relaxed about the starting 
tactics (less shouting and close quarters) and promotes courtesy in crossing 
situations.  SYC is flexible on shorting the course in very light air and we 
take ½ way times in case the wind shuts off entirely.


Some of the participants take full advantage of the cruising credits.  I 
may have a list of what has been offered is any CC listers are thinking of a 
similar get out the boat effort.  Let me know if the info is wanted.


In recent years there have been 4 or 5 boats (incl Calypso) that are sailed 
with intent to be C/R class competitive with limited use of the cruiser rating 
discounts.  Owners new to racing or whose boats were never conceived as a race 
boat can add more than a dozen seconds to the handicap to help move up the 
score card.  Most years there have been 12 to 15 boats total in the C/R class.


Martin




From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt, 
Mike
Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2012 12:25 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Keel mods vs Phrf Rating


OK - I was afraid you meant Flaking, peeling, ignored and cratered because 
I dont care.







From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Martin 
DeYoung
Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2012 3:36 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Keel mods vs Phrf Rating

Ablative paint with small blisters, keel not faired in the last 2 decades, 
some slime present from lack of cleaning.


Or, those little red bumps that itch after sitting in 

Re: Stus-List Gary - Pursuit racing

2012-11-14 Thread Martin DeYoung
A race with one of the best participation records here in the PNW is a single 
or double handed pursuit race.  The Sloop Tavern Yacht Club's Race to the 
Straits will see 80 to 100 boats enter.  A 24 foot cruising style design may 
start at 8am, a SC 70 around 10:15.  GPS time is used as the official race 
time.  The race course is complicated by wind system changes (holes) and 
challenging currents (often up to 4 knots) and multiple crossings of the USCG's 
Vessel Separation Lanes.

The race runs two days starting on Saturday (1st weekend in May) from Shilshole 
(near Seattle) and finishing at Port Townsend with a ½ way mark (take your 
time) at the Double Bluff buoy.  Saturday night there is an awards banquet 
(including a keg or two of a local IPA) held within walking distance of both 
local marinas.  Often the R2S race committee will reserve the entire Point 
Hudson marina which allows rampant rafting and the resulting socialization 
opportunities.

Sunday morning the race resumes back to Shilshole.  The ½ way times allow for 
scoring if the winds.  Most years the wind (light) and current (2 to 4 knots) 
combine to create very exciting parking lots.  There is almost a tradition of 
the fleet gathering at the Marrowstone Point back eddy waiting for a chance to 
break through.  Dozens of short-handed boats short tacking in current makes for 
great entertainment.  One year Calypso (on Starboard) almost made a catamaran 
out of a trimaran owing to poor communication between boats and helmsmen.

Calypso's co-owner and I have participated 5 or 6 times.  Several times we had 
3 CC 43s starting together with the occasional finish within boat lengths of 
each other.  This race's combo of a fun and challenging course, cool Saturday 
night destination with a great party, and the knowledge that you are winning 
over any boat behind you makes it very popular.

Martin
Calypso
1970 CC 43
Seattle


Martin

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt, Mike
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2012 5:16 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Gary - Pursuit racing

Gary

How do you determine start times for each boat in your pursuit races?  We have 
tried a couple of methods and all seem a bit problematic but tremendous fun.  
Our sailors love pursuit format but it is a bit of work beforeheand for the 
Race Committee

Mike


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Re: Stus-List Headliner access panels

2012-11-14 Thread Sam Salter
I was sailing the eastern shore of Maryland about 6 weeks ago - your right 
there is nothing there!
Get it online:
Sailrite: http://www.sailrite.com/3M-Dual-Lock-Type-250-1-Clear
Amazon, eBay, office depot

sam :-)


On 2012-11-14, at 8:44 AM, Gary Nylander gnylan...@atlanticbb.net wrote:

 Where do you get it?
  
 Gary
 30-1 in the boondocks on the Eastern Shore of Maryland - Lowe's nearby, but 
 over 50 miles to anything else
 - Original Message -
 From: Sam Salter
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2012 8:51 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Headliner access panels
 
 Velcro might not be the answer, but I'm almost positive this will:
 
 http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/3M-Industrial/Adhesives/Promotions-New-Products/Reclosable-Fasteners/
 
 It's like super industrial strength velcro.
 
 It's not cheap but it is reusable. I've not used it for headliners but it 
 secures my Velocitek Speed Puck to the mast (about 1 lb) with a small piece 
 about  1 1/2 x 4. This stuff bites! We take it all over the world when we 
 sail and it's conquered big winds and big seas.
 
 sam :-)
 C7C 26  Liquorice
 Ghost Lake  Alberta
 
 
 On 13/11/12 4:42 PM, Jake Brodersen wrote:
 
 Joel,
 I plan on replacing some of mine.  I am thinking about using plastic 
 sheeting.  I stripped of the peeling vinyl a long time ago and just painted 
 the wood.  It is only 1/8” thick.  ¼” plywood would be hard to keep up there 
 using the stock Velcro.  I might screw my next set on, as the Velcro just 
 doesn’t seem to work well, especially in rough conditions.
 Jake
 Jake Brodersen
 CC 35 Mk-III
 Midnight Mistress
 Hampton VA
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel 
 Aronson
 Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2012 1:43 PM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Stus-List Headliner access panels
 Several of the panels have delaminated.  1/4 inch plywood would be too 
 thick.  Is there a better replacement?  Has anyone either re-used the vinyl 
 or found a replacement?  What glue would you use?
 Thanks!
 -- 
 Joel 
 301 541 8551
 
 ___
 This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
 http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 
 ___
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 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 ___
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 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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Re: Stus-List Headliner access panels

2012-11-14 Thread Sam Salter
You can also get sheets of thin, white plastic (8' x 4') at Home Depot, RONA 
and I suspect Lowes (but I've never been in a Lowes)
Not used it for headliners but I have used it for covers inside to put over 
access holes for winch and jammer bolts.
sam :-)

On 2012-11-14, at 9:06 AM, Joel Aronson joel.aron...@gmail.com wrote:

 This plastic from McMaster looks like it would work:
 
 Formable Chemical-Resistant Kydex Acrylic/PVC
 Color: Black, gray, or white
 
 Temperature Range: -40° to 150° F
 
 Tensile Strength: Good
 
 Impact Strength: Excellent
 Often used for vehicle interiors and equipment housings, this material 
 maintains its shape after heating and forming. It resists corrosive chemicals 
 and cleaning solutions. One side is textured and the other is smooth. Width 
 and length tolerances are ±1/8. Sheets meet UL 94V0 for flame retardance. To 
 Order: Please specify color.
 
 View detailed performance properties for plastics.
 Sheets
 
 12 × 12
 12 × 24
 24 × 48
 48 × 48
 48 × 96
 Thick.Thick.
 Tolerance  EachEachEachEach   
  Each
 1/8  ±0.009 8650K11 $9.40   8650K12 $17.17  8650K13 $63.16  8650K14 $115.54 
 8650K15 $211.73
 
 
 On Wed, Nov 14, 2012 at 10:56 AM, D.Drake d...@rogers.com wrote:
 I picked up a pack at West Marine several years ago .Not cheap but works well 
 On 14/11/2012 10:44 AM, Gary Nylander wrote:
 Where do you get it?
  
 Gary
 30-1 in the boondocks on the Eastern Shore of Maryland - Lowe's nearby, but 
 over 50 miles to anything else
 - Original Message -
 From: Sam Salter
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2012 8:51 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Headliner access panels
 
 Velcro might not be the answer, but I'm almost positive this will:
 
 http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/3M-Industrial/Adhesives/Promotions-New-Products/Reclosable-Fasteners/
 
 It's like super industrial strength velcro.
 
 It's not cheap but it is reusable. I've not used it for headliners but it 
 secures my Velocitek Speed Puck to the mast (about 1 lb) with a small 
 piece about  1 1/2 x 4. This stuff bites! We take it all over the world 
 when we sail and it's conquered big winds and big seas.
 
 sam :-)
 C7C 26  Liquorice
 Ghost Lake  Alberta
 
 
 On 13/11/12 4:42 PM, Jake Brodersen wrote:
 
 Joel,
 
 
 I plan on replacing some of mine.  I am thinking about using plastic 
 sheeting.  I stripped of the peeling vinyl a long time ago and just painted 
 the wood.  It is only 1/8” thick.  ¼” plywood would be hard to keep up 
 there using the stock Velcro.  I might screw my next set on, as the Velcro 
 just doesn’t seem to work well, especially in rough conditions.
 
 
 Jake
 
 
 Jake Brodersen
 
 CC 35 Mk-III
 
 Midnight Mistress
 
 Hampton VA
 
 
 
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel 
 Aronson
 Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2012 1:43 PM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Stus-List Headliner access panels
 
 
 Several of the panels have delaminated.  1/4 inch plywood would be too 
 thick.  Is there a better replacement?  Has anyone either re-used the vinyl 
 or found a replacement?  What glue would you use?
 
 
 Thanks!
 
 
 -- 
 Joel 
 301 541 8551
 
 
 ___
 This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
 http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 
 ___
 This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
 http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 
 
 ___
 This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
 http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 
 -- 
 D.Drake 73 Jensen Healey CC 26
 
 ___
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 http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 
 
 
 
 -- 
 Joel 
 301 541 8551
 ___
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 http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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Re: Stus-List Headliner access panels

2012-11-14 Thread Richard N. Bush
I hate to be the caboose on this conversation but I do not understand what is 
happening to the headliners on the boats, I've never had a headliner fall or 
come apart, can someone explain what is happening and possibly the cause? 
thanks.


Richard
1987 33-II


Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
235 South Fifth Street, Fourth Floor 
Louisville, Kentucky 40202 
502-584-7255



-Original Message-
From: Joel Aronson joel.aron...@gmail.com
To: cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Wed, Nov 14, 2012 2:42 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Headliner access panels


No RONA stores south of the border, but I will check out HD too!



On Wed, Nov 14, 2012 at 2:35 PM, Sam Salter sam.c.sal...@gmail.com wrote:


You can also get sheets of thin, white plastic (8' x 4') at Home Depot, RONA 
and I suspect Lowes (but I've never been in a Lowes)
Not used it for headliners but I have used it for covers inside to put over 
access holes for winch and jammer bolts.
sam :-)


On 2012-11-14, at 9:06 AM, Joel Aronson joel.aron...@gmail.com wrote:






This plastic from McMaster looks like it would work:



Formable Chemical-Resistant Kydex Acrylic/PVC


Color: Black, gray, or white


Temperature Range: -40° to 150° F


Tensile Strength: Good


Impact Strength: Excellent

Often used for vehicle interiors and equipment housings, this material 
maintains its shape after heating and forming. It resists corrosive chemicals 
and cleaning solutions. One side is textured and the other is smooth. Width and 
length tolerances are ±1/8. Sheets meet UL 94V0 for flame retardance. To 
Order: Please specify color.
View detailed performance properties for plastics.


Sheets















12 × 12


12 × 24


24 × 48


48 × 48


48 × 96


Thick.
Thick.
Tolerance
 
Each
 
Each
 
Each
 
Each
 
Each


1/8
±0.009
8650K11
$9.40
8650K12
$17.17
8650K13
$63.16
8650K14
$115.54
8650K15
$211.73










On Wed, Nov 14, 2012 at 10:56 AM, D.Drake d...@rogers.com wrote:

I picked up a pack at West Marine several years ago .Not cheap but works well 


On 14/11/2012 10:44 AM, Gary Nylander wrote:


Where do you get it?
 
Gary
30-1 in the boondocks on the Eastern Shore of Maryland - Lowe's nearby, but 
over 50 miles to anything else

- Original Message - 
From: Sam Salter 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2012 8:51 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Headliner access panels


Velcro might not be the answer, but I'm almost positive this will:

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/3M-Industrial/Adhesives/Promotions-New-Products/Reclosable-Fasteners/

It's like super industrial strength velcro.

It's not cheap but it is reusable. I've not used it for headliners but it 
secures my Velocitek Speed Puck to the mast (about 1 lb) with a small piece 
about  1 1/2 x 4. This stuff bites! We take it all over the world when we 
sail and it's conquered big winds and big seas.

sam :-)
C7C 26  Liquorice
Ghost Lake  Alberta


On 13/11/12 4:42 PM, Jake Brodersen wrote: 

Joel,

I plan on replacing some of mine.  I am thinking about using plastic sheeting.  
I stripped of the peeling vinyl a long time ago and just painted the wood.  It 
is only 1/8” thick.  ¼” plywood would be hard to keep up there using the stock 
Velcro.  I might screw my next set on, as the Velcro just doesn’t seem to work 
well, especially in rough conditions.

Jake

Jake Brodersen
CC 35 Mk-III
Midnight Mistress
Hampton VA


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson
Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2012 1:43 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Headliner access panels

Several of the panels have delaminated.  1/4 inch plywood would be too thick.  
Is there a better replacement?  Has anyone either re-used the vinyl or found a 
replacement?  What glue would you use?



Thanks!



-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551



__
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ttp://www.cncphotoalbum.com
nc-l...@cnc-list.com


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nc-l...@cnc-list.com



-- 
D.Drake 73 Jensen Healey CC 26

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-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551



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CnC-List@cnc-list.com




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CnC-List@cnc-list.com







-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551


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This 

Re: Stus-List Headliner access panels

2012-11-14 Thread Joel Aronson
Richard,

In the case of my boat, it is not the headliner, but the access panels that
are the problem.  They are vinyl over plywood.  The long ones are screwed
in, the more rectangular ones under the winches have velcro.  Over the
years there have been leaks that have caused the plywood to fail in the
panels over the quarter-berth and nav station.  Also, the vinyl is becoming
unglued in places.  Its not terribly noticeable until you remove a panel
and have pieces of plywood falling out.  If your boat is watertight, you
probably don't have this issue.  The PO of my boat was too tolerant of
leaks, and I am cleaning up his mess.

Hope this clarifies the matter.

Joel
35/3
Annapolis


On Wed, Nov 14, 2012 at 3:18 PM, Richard N. Bush bushma...@aol.com wrote:

 I hate to be the caboose on this conversation but I do not understand what
 is happening to the headliners on the boats, I've never had a headliner
 fall or come apart, can someone explain what is happening and possibly the
 cause? thanks.

  Richard
 1987 33-II

 Richard N. Bush Law Offices
 235 South Fifth Street, Fourth Floor
 Louisville, Kentucky 40202
 502-584-7255


 -Original Message-
 From: Joel Aronson joel.aron...@gmail.com
 To: cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Sent: Wed, Nov 14, 2012 2:42 pm
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Headliner access panels

 No RONA stores south of the border, but I will check out HD too!


 On Wed, Nov 14, 2012 at 2:35 PM, Sam Salter sam.c.sal...@gmail.comwrote:

  You can also get sheets of thin, white plastic (8' x 4') at Home Depot,
 RONA and I suspect Lowes (but I've never been in a Lowes)
 Not used it for headliners but I have used it for covers inside to put
 over access holes for winch and jammer bolts.
 sam :-)


 On 2012-11-14, at 9:06 AM, Joel Aronson joel.aron...@gmail.com wrote:

 This plastic from McMaster looks like it would work:

   Formable Chemical-Resistant Kydex Acrylic/PVC

- Color: Black, gray, or white
-
 - Temperature Range: -40° to 150° F
-
 - Tensile Strength: Good
-
 - Impact Strength: Excellent

  Often used for vehicle interiors and equipment housings, this material
 maintains its shape after heating and forming. It resists corrosive
 chemicals and cleaning solutions. One side is textured and the other is
 smooth. Width and length tolerances are ±1/8. Sheets meet UL 94V0 for
 flame retardance. To Order: Please specify color.
 View detailed performance properties for 
 plastics.http://www.mcmaster.com/#8574KAC
   Sheets
12 × 12
   12 × 24
   24 × 48
   48 × 48
   48 × 96
   Thick. Thick.
 Tolerance   Each   Each   Each   Each   Each  1/8 ±0.009 
 8650K11http://www.mcmaster.com/#8650K11
 $9.40 8650K12 http://www.mcmaster.com/#8650K12 $17.17 
 8650K13http://www.mcmaster.com/#8650K13
 $63.16 8650K14 http://www.mcmaster.com/#8650K14 $115.54 
 8650K15http://www.mcmaster.com/#8650K15
 $211.73


 On Wed, Nov 14, 2012 at 10:56 AM, D.Drake d...@rogers.com wrote:

 I picked up a pack at West Marine several years ago .Not cheap but works
 well
  On 14/11/2012 10:44 AM, Gary Nylander wrote:

 Where do you get it?

 Gary
 30-1 in the boondocks on the Eastern Shore of Maryland - Lowe's nearby,
 but over 50 miles to anything else

 - Original Message -
 *From:* Sam Salter sam.c.sal...@gmail.com
 *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *Sent:* Tuesday, November 13, 2012 8:51 PM
 *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Headliner access panels

  Velcro might not be the answer, but I'm almost positive this will:


 http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/3M-Industrial/Adhesives/Promotions-New-Products/Reclosable-Fasteners/

 It's like super industrial strength velcro.

 It's not cheap but it is reusable. I've not used it for headliners but
 it secures my Velocitek Speed Puck to the mast (about 1 lb) with a small
 piece about  1 1/2 x 4. This stuff bites! We take it all over the world
 when we sail and it's conquered big winds and big seas.

 sam :-)
 C7C 26  Liquorice
 Ghost Lake  Alberta


 On 13/11/12 4:42 PM, Jake Brodersen wrote:

  Joel,
 
 I plan on replacing some of mine.  I am thinking about using plastic
 sheeting.  I stripped of the peeling vinyl a long time ago and just painted
 the wood.  It is only 1/8” thick.  ¼” plywood would be hard to keep up
 there using the stock Velcro.  I might screw my next set on, as the Velcro
 just doesn’t seem to work well, especially in rough conditions.
 
 Jake
 
 *Jake Brodersen*
 *CC 35 Mk-III*
 *Midnight Mistress*
 *Hampton VA*
 
 
 *From:* CnC-List 
 [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.comcnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
 *On Behalf Of *Joel Aronson
 *Sent:* Tuesday, November 13, 2012 1:43 PM
 *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *Subject:* Stus-List Headliner access panels
 
 Several of the panels have delaminated.  1/4 inch plywood would be too
 thick.  Is there a better replacement?  Has anyone either re-used the vinyl
 or found a replacement?  What glue would you use?
  
  Thanks!
 
  

Re: Stus-List Headliner access panels

2012-11-14 Thread Rich CC
Here's some other stuff I have used for lining commercial garages that looks
very nice and is friendly to use:

 

http://www.palramamericas.com/Wall-Tuf

 

Rich

 

Rich Knowles

INDIGO - LF38

Halifax, NS

 

 

 

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Headliner access panels

2012-11-14 Thread Rich CC
Richard: CC has used a variety of materials and fastening methods on the 
various boats over the years and some have been more durable than others 
depending on the environment in which they find themselves.

 

Rich Knowles

INDIGO - LF38

Halifax, NS

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Richard N. 
Bush
Sent: November 14, 2012 16:19
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Headliner access panels

 

I hate to be the caboose on this conversation but I do not understand what is 
happening to the headliners on the boats, I've never had a headliner fall or 
come apart, can someone explain what is happening and possibly the cause? 
thanks.

Richard

1987 33-II

 

Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
235 South Fifth Street, Fourth Floor 
Louisville, Kentucky 40202 
502-584-7255

 

-Original Message-
From: Joel Aronson joel.aron...@gmail.com
To: cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Wed, Nov 14, 2012 2:42 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Headliner access panels

No RONA stores south of the border, but I will check out HD too! 

 

On Wed, Nov 14, 2012 at 2:35 PM, Sam Salter sam.c.sal...@gmail.com wrote:

You can also get sheets of thin, white plastic (8' x 4') at Home Depot, RONA 
and I suspect Lowes (but I've never been in a Lowes)

Not used it for headliners but I have used it for covers inside to put over 
access holes for winch and jammer bolts.

sam :-) 



On 2012-11-14, at 9:06 AM, Joel Aronson joel.aron...@gmail.com wrote:

This plastic from McMaster looks like it would work: 

 


Formable Chemical-Resistant Kydex Acrylic/PVC


· Color: Black, gray, or white

·  

· Temperature Range: -40° to 150° F

·  

· Tensile Strength: Good

·  

· Impact Strength: Excellent

Often used for vehicle interiors and equipment housings, this material 
maintains its shape after heating and forming. It resists corrosive chemicals 
and cleaning solutions. One side is textured and the other is smooth. Width and 
length tolerances are ±1/8. Sheets meet UL 94V0 for flame retardance. To 
Order: Please specify color.

View  http://www.mcmaster.com/#8574KAC detailed performance properties for 
plastics.

Sheets





12 × 12

12 × 24

24 × 48

48 × 48

48 × 96


Thick.

Thick.
Tolerance

 

Each

 

Each

 

Each

 

Each

 

Each


1/8

±0.009

 http://www.mcmaster.com/#8650K11 8650K11

$9.40

 http://www.mcmaster.com/#8650K12 8650K12

$17.17

 http://www.mcmaster.com/#8650K13 8650K13

$63.16

 http://www.mcmaster.com/#8650K14 8650K14

$115.54

 http://www.mcmaster.com/#8650K15 8650K15

$211.73

 

On Wed, Nov 14, 2012 at 10:56 AM, D.Drake d...@rogers.com wrote:

I picked up a pack at West Marine several years ago .Not cheap but works well 

On 14/11/2012 10:44 AM, Gary Nylander wrote:

Where do you get it?

 

Gary

30-1 in the boondocks on the Eastern Shore of Maryland - Lowe's nearby, but 
over 50 miles to anything else

- Original Message - 

From: Sam Salter mailto:sam.c.sal...@gmail.com  

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2012 8:51 PM

Subject: Re: Stus-List Headliner access panels

 

Velcro might not be the answer, but I'm almost positive this will:

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/3M-Industrial/Adhesives/Promotions-New-Products/Reclosable-Fasteners/

It's like super industrial strength velcro.

It's not cheap but it is reusable. I've not used it for headliners but it 
secures my Velocitek Speed Puck to the mast (about 1 lb) with a small piece 
about  1 1/2 x 4. This stuff bites! We take it all over the world when we 
sail and it's conquered big winds and big seas.

sam :-)
C7C 26  Liquorice
Ghost Lake  Alberta


On 13/11/12 4:42 PM, Jake Brodersen wrote: 

Joel,

I plan on replacing some of mine.  I am thinking about using plastic sheeting.  
I stripped of the peeling vinyl a long time ago and just painted the wood.  It 
is only 1/8” thick.  ¼” plywood would be hard to keep up there using the stock 
Velcro.  I might screw my next set on, as the Velcro just doesn’t seem to work 
well, especially in rough conditions.

Jake

Jake Brodersen

CC 35 Mk-III

Midnight Mistress

Hampton VA

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson
Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2012 1:43 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Headliner access panels

Several of the panels have delaminated.  1/4 inch plywood would be too thick.  
Is there a better replacement?  Has anyone either re-used the vinyl or found a 
replacement?  What glue would you use?

Thanks!


-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551

 
___
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http://www.cncphotoalbum.com http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ 
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

 


  _  


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Stus-List Fw: Headliner access panels

2012-11-14 Thread Persuasion
Joel

I’ve replaced the access panels on my headliner with 1/8” FRP that can be 
bought at Home Depot in 4 X 8 sheets.  Used the old panels as templates.  I 
tried attaching a couple of panels with velcro.  Didn’t like the look.  Too 
thick.  Next I tried screws like the originals were attached.  Admiral didn’t 
like.  Tried a couple of panels with 4200 and screws.  Had to remove these 
panels to get rid of the screws.  Admiral’s order.  I found the 4200 to be very 
effective.  Next spring all panels will be secured with 4200 only.  To dress up 
the headliner itself I painted that with Intrelux Brightside Blue Glo White.  
IMHO the shiny stipple texture of the FRB with the blue glo white certainly 
lightened up the salon.

Mike
S/V Persuasion
CC 37 K/CB 
Stormont Yacht Club
http://www.stormontyachtclub.ca/

From: Joel Aronson 
Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2012 1:43 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Stus-List Headliner access panels

Several of the panels have delaminated.  1/4 inch plywood would be too thick.  
Is there a better replacement?  Has anyone either re-used the vinyl or found a 
replacement?  What glue would you use? 

Thanks!


-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551




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CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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Re: Stus-List Fw: Headliner access panels

2012-11-14 Thread Joel Aronson
Thanks everyone!  Lots of great options!  I need to measure the longest
panel and narrow down the materials.*The Office* has come a long way in a
year, and you guys have been invaluable!


On Wed, Nov 14, 2012 at 4:32 PM, Persuasion persuasio...@gmail.com wrote:

   Joel

 I’ve replaced the access panels on my headliner with 1/8” FRP that can be
 bought at Home Depot in 4 X 8 sheets.  Used the old panels as templates.  I
 tried attaching a couple of panels with velcro.  Didn’t like the look.  Too
 thick.  Next I tried screws like the originals were attached.  Admiral
 didn’t like.  Tried a couple of panels with 4200 and screws.  Had to remove
 these panels to get rid of the screws.  Admiral’s order.  I found the 4200
 to be very effective.  Next spring all panels will be secured with 4200
 only.  To dress up the headliner itself I painted that with Intrelux
 Brightside Blue Glo White.  IMHO the shiny stipple texture of the FRB with
 the blue glo white certainly lightened up the salon.

 Mike
 S/V Persuasion
 CC 37 K/CB
 Stormont Yacht Club
 http://www.stormontyachtclub.ca/

  *From:* Joel Aronson joel.aron...@gmail.com
 *Sent:* Tuesday, November 13, 2012 1:43 PM
 *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *Subject:* Stus-List Headliner access panels

 Several of the panels have delaminated.  1/4 inch plywood would be too
 thick.  Is there a better replacement?  Has anyone either re-used the vinyl
 or found a replacement?  What glue would you use?

 Thanks!

 --
 Joel
 301 541 8551

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Re: Stus-List Winterizing Advice sought for CC34

2012-11-14 Thread David Risch
Mark,

I would run the engine a  bit more with water after the oil change so that you 
can check oil level and top off if needed.  Then proceed to run anti-freeze 
through engine.

Prepare for a big mess with the filter.  Lots of paper towels etc.



David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2012 13:44:33 -0800
From: fastguy1...@yahoo.com
To: robertabb...@eastlink.ca; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing Advice sought for CC34

Robert and Jonathon, and all,


Thanks for the tips; are there suggestions about best practices when 
doing oil changes on the 34?

Mark


From: Robert Abbott robertabb...@eastlink.ca
 To: Mark Meyer fastguy1...@yahoo.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2012 9:05 AM
 Subject: Winterizing Advice sought for
 CC34
   

  


  
  
Mark:

  

  If your boat in 'on the hard', you will need a few pieces of
  hardware to do the job.oil pump, garden hose, large bucket and
  a 10' foot piece of the hose the same diameter as the hose that
  attaches to your raw water pump.

  

  Remove the hose on the inlet side of your water pumpattach the
  10' piece to the water pump and place the other end in the bucket
  in the cockpit and fill with water from the garden hose..start
  your engine and let it run until the engine reaches normal
  operating temp..keep the water level in the bucket so you are
  not sucking in air.

  

  Shut engine down.change the oil and filter.

  

  Now empty water from the bucket and put your antifreeze in the
  bucket..2 gallons will be more than enough.start your
  engine and run until you see antifreeze exiting from your
  exhaust.shut engine down.

  

  Some people leave the 10' hose connected to the water pump all
  wintermakes it easy in the Spring to start your engine before
  launch to retrieve the antifreeze in the engine.  Some disconnect
  it and reconnect the raw water hose.

  

  Hope this helps.

  

  Bob Abbott

  AZURA

  CC 32 - 84

  Halifax, N.S.

  

  

  

  

  

  On 2012/11/12 11:03 PM, Mark Meyer wrote:



  Hi List,



Short season for me this year, bought our CC34 this spring
and did a lot

to bring her back to where she needs to be. But I'm late
winterizing the Diesel 

engine and am looking for advice and tricks to speed me through
getting

this engine done.



Any Advice?





Thanks in advance,





Mark Meyer

SV Freedom, Whitehall MI




  
  

  
  

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Re: Stus-List Headliner access panels

2012-11-14 Thread Gary Nylander
Where were you, Sam? There is actually quite a bit over here, but just not a 
whole bunch of commercialization, which is the way we like it. We're an hour 
and a half from DC and Baltimore, so that is enough 'civilization' for most of 
us.

And about 5-600 miles of shoreline in our county alone - OK?

Gary
  - Original Message - 
  From: Sam Salter 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2012 2:31 PM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Headliner access panels


  I was sailing the eastern shore of Maryland about 6 weeks ago - your right 
there is nothing there!
  Get it online:
  Sailrite: http://www.sailrite.com/3M-Dual-Lock-Type-250-1-Clear
  Amazon, eBay, office depot


  sam :-)


  On 2012-11-14, at 8:44 AM, Gary Nylander gnylan...@atlanticbb.net wrote:


Where do you get it?

Gary
30-1 in the boondocks on the Eastern Shore of Maryland - Lowe's nearby, but 
over 50 miles to anything else
  - Original Message - 
  From: Sam Salter 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2012 8:51 PM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Headliner access panels


  Velcro might not be the answer, but I'm almost positive this will:

  
http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/3M-Industrial/Adhesives/Promotions-New-Products/Reclosable-Fasteners/

  It's like super industrial strength velcro.

  It's not cheap but it is reusable. I've not used it for headliners but it 
secures my Velocitek Speed Puck to the mast (about 1 lb) with a small piece 
about  1 1/2 x 4. This stuff bites! We take it all over the world when we 
sail and it's conquered big winds and big seas.

  sam :-)
  C7C 26  Liquorice
  Ghost Lake  Alberta


  On 13/11/12 4:42 PM, Jake Brodersen wrote: 
Joel,


I plan on replacing some of mine.  I am thinking about using plastic 
sheeting.  I stripped of the peeling vinyl a long time ago and just painted the 
wood.  It is only 1/8” thick.  ¼” plywood would be hard to keep up there using 
the stock Velcro.  I might screw my next set on, as the Velcro just doesn’t 
seem to work well, especially in rough conditions.


Jake


Jake Brodersen

CC 35 Mk-III

Midnight Mistress

Hampton VA



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel 
Aronson
Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2012 1:43 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Headliner access panels


Several of the panels have delaminated.  1/4 inch plywood would be too 
thick.  Is there a better replacement?  Has anyone either re-used the vinyl or 
found a replacement?  What glue would you use?


Thanks!



-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551


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Stus-List Headliner access panels

2012-11-14 Thread Kim Brown

FWIW -the discussion got me to check. I had thought the access panels on my
35-3 were standard laminate but they appear to be fiberglass panels that are
very thin - texture and finish on the front but some definite random strands
and resin on the unfinished back. That said, they are very much like
standard formica/plastic laminate. I would suspect it would make a good
substitute excepting that it is probably more brittle than most of the other
suggestions so pre-drilling would matter-if you weren't going the straight
Velcro route. But it is moisture proof, stiff enough, light enough and
available in almost any color. You may also be able to source scraps from
your local cabinet shop- The cabinet shop I worked with always had a big
scrap selection useful for small projects but not for the countertops they
built. May be easier than sourcing a 4x8 sheet of something. 

Kim Brown 
Trust Me!!! 35-3
  



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Re: Stus-List Winterizing Advice sought for CC34

2012-11-14 Thread johnrmcl
Or have a very resourceful PO who plumbed in circuit with a valve and hose 
connection that enables one to close off the the outside intake, connect hose 
to outside water source, open the valve in the plumbed in circuit and run the 
engine quite merrily in minutes.


Cheers,
John
Falcon -- CC 29-2



-Original Message-
From: Mark Meyer fastguy1...@yahoo.com
To: Robert Abbott robertabb...@eastlink.ca; cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Wed, Nov 14, 2012 4:44 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing Advice sought for CC34


Robert and Jonathon, and all,


Thanks for the tips; are there suggestions about best practices when 
doing oil changes on the 34?

Mark





  
 
 
  
  From: Robert Abbott robertabb...@eastlink.ca
 To: Mark Meyer fastguy1...@yahoo.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2012 9:05 AM
 Subject: Winterizing Advice sought for CC34
  
 

  

Mark:
  
  If your boat in 'on the hard', you will need a few pieces of  
hardware to do the job.oil pump, garden hose, large bucket and  a 10' 
foot piece of the hose the same diameter as the hose that  attaches to your 
raw water pump.
  
  Remove the hose on the inlet side of your water pumpattach the  
10' piece to the water pump and place the other end in the bucket  in the 
cockpit and fill with water from the garden hose..start  your engine 
and let it run until the engine reaches normal  operating temp..keep 
the water level in the bucket so you are  not sucking in air.
  
  Shut engine down.change the oil and filter.
  
  Now empty water from the bucket and put your antifreeze in the  
bucket..2 gallons will be more than enough.start your  engine and 
run until you see antifreeze exiting from your  exhaust.shut engine 
down.
  
  Some people leave the 10' hose connected to the water pump all  
wintermakes it easy in the Spring to start your engine before  launch 
to retrieve the antifreeze in the engine.  Some disconnect  it and 
reconnect the raw water hose.
  
  Hope this helps.
  
  Bob Abbott
  AZURA
  CC 32 - 84
  Halifax, N.S.
  
  
  
  
  
  On 2012/11/12 11:03 PM, Mark Meyer wrote:


  
Hi List,

Short season for me this year, bought our CC34 this springand 
did a lot
to bring her back to where she needs to be. But I'm late
winterizing the Diesel 
engine and am looking for advice and tricks to speed me through
getting
this engine done.

Any Advice?


Thanks in advance,


Mark Meyer
SV Freedom, Whitehall MI



  
  
  
  
  
___
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CnC-List@cnc-list.com



  


 
 
  
 
___
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Re: Stus-List Winterizing Advice sought for CC34

2012-11-14 Thread Tim Goodyear
For the filter, unscrew it inside a ziploc bag (once you've loosened it).  
Still a bit of mess, but less.

Tim
Mojito
35-3
Branford, CT

On Nov 14, 2012, at 4:59 PM, David Risch davidrisc...@msn.com wrote:

 Mark,
 
 I would run the engine a  bit more with water after the oil change so that 
 you can check oil level and top off if needed.  Then proceed to run 
 anti-freeze through engine.
 
 Prepare for a big mess with the filter.  Lots of paper towels etc.
 
 
 
 David F. Risch
 1981 40-2
 (401) 419-4650 (cell)
 
 
 Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2012 13:44:33 -0800
 From: fastguy1...@yahoo.com
 To: robertabb...@eastlink.ca; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing Advice sought for CC34
 
 Robert and Jonathon, and all,
 
 
 Thanks for the tips; are there suggestions about best practices when 
 doing oil changes on the 34?
 
 Mark
 
 
 From: Robert Abbott robertabb...@eastlink.ca
 To: Mark Meyer fastguy1...@yahoo.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2012 9:05 AM
 Subject: Winterizing Advice sought for CC34
 
 Mark:
 
 If your boat in 'on the hard', you will need a few pieces of hardware to do 
 the job.oil pump, garden hose, large bucket and a 10' foot piece of the 
 hose the same diameter as the hose that attaches to your raw water pump.
 
 Remove the hose on the inlet side of your water pumpattach the 10' piece 
 to the water pump and place the other end in the bucket in the cockpit and 
 fill with water from the garden hose..start your engine and let it run 
 until the engine reaches normal   operating temp..keep the water 
 level in the bucket so you are not sucking in air.
 
 Shut engine down.change the oil and filter.
 
 Now empty water from the bucket and put your antifreeze in the bucket..2 
 gallons will be more than enough.start your engine and run until you see 
 antifreeze exiting from your exhaust.shut engine down.
 
 Some people leave the 10' hose connected to the water pump all 
 wintermakes it easy in the Spring to start your engine before launch to 
 retrieve the antifreeze in the engine.  Some disconnect it and reconnect the 
 raw water hose.
 
 Hope this helps.
 
 Bob Abbott
 AZURA
 CC 32 - 84
 Halifax, N.S.
 
 
 
 
 
 On 2012/11/12 11:03 PM, Mark Meyer wrote:
 Hi List,
 
 Short season for me this year, bought our CC34 this spring and did a lot
 to bring her back to where she needs to be. But I'm late winterizing the 
 Diesel 
 engine and am looking for advice and tricks to speed me through getting
 this engine done.
 
 Any Advice?
 
 
 Thanks in advance,
 
 
 Mark Meyer
 SV Freedom, Whitehall MI
 
 
 
 ___
 This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
 http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 
 
 
 
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 CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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Re: Stus-List Winterizing Advice sought for CC34

2012-11-14 Thread David Risch
Or y-valve another intake hose with a screened pick-up.  Great for winterizing 
and another source of bilge water removal.   Real simple and adds a little 
piece of mind   

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


To: fastguy1...@yahoo.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com; robertabb...@eastlink.ca
From: johnr...@aol.com
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2012 18:05:34 -0500
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing Advice sought for CC34

Or have a very resourceful PO who plumbed in circuit with a valve and hose 
connection that enables one to close off the the outside intake, connect hose 
to outside water source, open the valve in the plumbed in circuit and run the 
engine quite merrily in minutes.




Cheers,

John

Falcon -- CC 29-2






-Original Message-

From: Mark Meyer fastguy1...@yahoo.com

To: Robert Abbott robertabb...@eastlink.ca; cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Sent: Wed, Nov 14, 2012 4:44 pm

Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing Advice sought for CC34













Robert and Jonathon, and all,





Thanks for the tips; are there suggestions about best practices when 

doing oil changes on the 34?



Mark









  
 
 
From: Robert Abbott robertabb...@eastlink.ca

 To: Mark Meyer fastguy1...@yahoo.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

 Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2012 9:05 AM

 Subject: Winterizing Advice sought for
 CC34

  
 



  


  
  


Mark:


  


  If your boat in 'on the hard', you will need a few pieces of
  hardware to do the job.oil pump, garden hose, large bucket and
  a 10' foot piece of the hose the same diameter as the hose that
  attaches to your raw water pump.


  


  Remove the hose on the inlet side of your water pumpattach the
  10' piece to the water pump and place the other end in the bucket
  in the cockpit and fill with water from the garden hose..start
  your engine and let it run until the engine reaches normal
  operating temp..keep the water level in the bucket so you are
  not sucking in air.


  


  Shut engine down.change the oil and filter.


  


  Now empty water from the bucket and put your antifreeze in the
  bucket..2 gallons will be more than enough.start your
  engine and run until you see antifreeze exiting from your
  exhaust.shut engine down.


  


  Some people leave the 10' hose connected to the water pump all
  wintermakes it easy in the Spring to start your engine before
  launch to retrieve the antifreeze in the engine.  Some disconnect
  it and reconnect the raw water hose.


  


  Hope this helps.


  


  Bob Abbott


  AZURA


  CC 32 - 84


  Halifax, N.S.


  


  


  


  


  


  On 2012/11/12 11:03 PM, Mark Meyer wrote:





  
Hi List,





Short season for me this year, bought our CC34 this spring
and did a lot


to bring her back to where she needs to be. But I'm late
winterizing the Diesel 


engine and am looking for advice and tricks to speed me through
getting


this engine done.





Any Advice?








Thanks in advance,








Mark Meyer


SV Freedom, Whitehall MI








  

  


  
  


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Re: Stus-List Winterizing Advice sought for CC34

2012-11-14 Thread Andrew Burton
I've seen advice like this a couple of times. Be very careful about hooking
an land pressure water hose to your raw water system. As a matter of fact,
don't do it. You can end up filling the exhaust manifold and the cylinders
with water, which unsurprisingly, is bad for the engine. Far better to
remove the raw water intake and put it in a bucket and let the water pump
draw water at the required rate.

Andrew Burton

Newport, RI

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/

On Wed, Nov 14, 2012 at 6:05 PM, johnr...@aol.com wrote:

 Or have a very resourceful PO who plumbed in circuit with a valve and hose
 connection that enables one to close off the the outside intake, connect
 hose to outside water source, open the valve in the plumbed in circuit and
 run the engine quite merrily in minutes.

  Cheers,
 John
 Falcon -- CC 29-2


 -Original Message-
 From: Mark Meyer fastguy1...@yahoo.com
 To: Robert Abbott robertabb...@eastlink.ca; cnc-list 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Sent: Wed, Nov 14, 2012 4:44 pm
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing Advice sought for CC34

  Robert and Jonathon, and all,


 Thanks for the tips; are there suggestions about best practices when
 doing oil changes on the 34?

 Mark


--
 *From:* Robert Abbott robertabb...@eastlink.ca
 *To:* Mark Meyer fastguy1...@yahoo.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *Sent:* Wednesday, November 14, 2012 9:05 AM
 *Subject:* Winterizing Advice sought for CC34

  Mark:

 If your boat in 'on the hard', you will need a few pieces of hardware to
 do the job.oil pump, garden hose, large bucket and a 10' foot piece of
 the hose the same diameter as the hose that attaches to your raw water pump.

 Remove the hose on the inlet side of your water pumpattach the 10'
 piece to the water pump and place the other end in the bucket in the
 cockpit and fill with water from the garden hose..start your engine and
 let it run until the engine reaches normal operating temp..keep the
 water level in the bucket so you are not sucking in air.

 Shut engine down.change the oil and filter.

 Now empty water from the bucket and put your antifreeze in the
 bucket..2 gallons will be more than enough.start your engine and
 run until you see antifreeze exiting from your exhaust.shut engine down.

 Some people leave the 10' hose connected to the water pump all
 wintermakes it easy in the Spring to start your engine before launch to
 retrieve the antifreeze in the engine.  Some disconnect it and reconnect
 the raw water hose.

 Hope this helps.

 Bob Abbott
 AZURA
 CC 32 - 84
 Halifax, N.S.





 On 2012/11/12 11:03 PM, Mark Meyer wrote:

 Hi List,

 Short season for me this year, bought our CC34 this spring and did a lot
 to bring her back to where she needs to be. But I'm late winterizing the
 Diesel
 engine and am looking for advice and tricks to speed me through getting
 this engine done.

 Any Advice?


 Thanks in advance,


 Mark Meyer
 SV Freedom, Whitehall MI



 ___
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 Albumhttp://www.cncphotoalbum.comcnc-l...@cnc-list.com




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 Albumhttp://www.cncphotoalbum.comcnc-l...@cnc-list.com


 ___
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 CnC-List@cnc-list.com




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phone  +401 965 5260
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Re: Stus-List Winterizing Advice sought for CC34

2012-11-14 Thread johnrmcl
This has been done on this boat for years.  You just need to be prudent.  
However, it still makes it easy to do the bucket thing, as well.



-Original Message-
From: Andrew Burton a.burton.sai...@gmail.com
To: cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Wed, Nov 14, 2012 6:11 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing Advice sought for CC34


I've seen advice like this a couple of times. Be very careful about hooking an 
land pressure water hose to your raw water system. As a matter of fact, don't 
do it. You can end up filling the exhaust manifold and the cylinders with 
water, which unsurprisingly, is bad for the engine. Far better to remove the 
raw water intake and put it in a bucket and let the water pump draw water at 
the required rate.

Andrew Burton

Newport, RI

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/


On Wed, Nov 14, 2012 at 6:05 PM,  johnr...@aol.com wrote:

Or have a very resourceful PO who plumbed in circuit with a valve and hose 
connection that enables one to close off the the outside intake, connect hose 
to outside water source, open the valve in the plumbed in circuit and run the 
engine quite merrily in minutes.


Cheers,
John
Falcon -- CC 29-2



-Original Message-
From: Mark Meyer fastguy1...@yahoo.com
To: Robert Abbott robertabb...@eastlink.ca; cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Wed, Nov 14, 2012 4:44 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing Advice sought for CC34


Robert and Jonathon, and all,


Thanks for the tips; are there suggestions about best practices when 
doing oil changes on the 34?

Mark





  
 
 
  
  From: Robert Abbott robertabb...@eastlink.ca
 To: Mark Meyer fastguy1...@yahoo.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2012 9:05 AM
 Subject: Winterizing Advice sought for CC34
  
 

  

Mark:
  
  If your boat in 'on the hard', you will need a few pieces of  
hardware to do the job.oil pump, garden hose, large bucket and  a 10' 
foot piece of the hose the same diameter as the hose that  attaches to your 
raw water pump.
  
  Remove the hose on the inlet side of your water pumpattach the  
10' piece to the water pump and place the other end in the bucket  in the 
cockpit and fill with water from the garden hose..start  your engine 
and let it run until the engine reaches normal  operating temp..keep 
the water level in the bucket so you are  not sucking in air.
  
  Shut engine down.change the oil and filter.
  
  Now empty water from the bucket and put your antifreeze in the  
bucket..2 gallons will be more than enough.start your  engine and 
run until you see antifreeze exiting from your  exhaust.shut engine 
down.
  
  Some people leave the 10' hose connected to the water pump all  
wintermakes it easy in the Spring to start your engine before  launch 
to retrieve the antifreeze in the engine.  Some disconnect  it and 
reconnect the raw water hose.
  
  Hope this helps.
  
  Bob Abbott
  AZURA
  CC 32 - 84
  Halifax, N.S.
  
  
  
  
  
  On 2012/11/12 11:03 PM, Mark Meyer wrote:


  
Hi List,

Short season for me this year, bought our CC34 this springand 
did a lot
to bring her back to where she needs to be. But I'm late
winterizing the Diesel 
engine and am looking for advice and tricks to speed me through
getting
this engine done.

Any Advice?


Thanks in advance,


Mark Meyer
SV Freedom, Whitehall MI



  
  
  
  
  
___
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http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com



  


 
 
  
 
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-- 

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Re: Stus-List Winterizing Advice sought for CC34

2012-11-14 Thread David Risch
Until I did the y-valve install, so did I...but I thought the heat exchanger 
protected the closed loop of the engine from any excess pressure.  Assuming, of 
course, its a fresh water cooled engine...Raw water cooled...another story.

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
From: johnr...@aol.com
Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2012 18:16:51 -0500
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing Advice sought for CC34

This has been done on this boat for years.  You just need to be prudent.  
However, it still makes it easy to do the bucket thing, as well.






-Original Message-

From: Andrew Burton a.burton.sai...@gmail.com

To: cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Sent: Wed, Nov 14, 2012 6:11 pm

Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing Advice sought for CC34












I've seen advice like this a couple of times. Be very careful about hooking an 
land pressure water hose to your raw water system. As a matter of fact, don't 
do it. You can end up filling the exhaust manifold and the cylinders with 
water, which unsurprisingly, is bad for the engine. Far better to remove the 
raw water intake and put it in a bucket and let the water pump draw water at 
the required rate.





Andrew Burton



Newport, RI



http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/




On Wed, Nov 14, 2012 at 6:05 PM,  johnr...@aol.com wrote:



Or have a very resourceful PO who plumbed in circuit with a valve and hose 
connection that enables one to close off the the outside intake, connect hose 
to outside water source, open the valve in the plumbed in circuit and run the 
engine quite merrily in minutes.








Cheers,



John



Falcon -- CC 29-2










-Original Message-


From: Mark Meyer fastguy1...@yahoo.com


To: Robert Abbott robertabb...@eastlink.ca; cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com


Sent: Wed, Nov 14, 2012 4:44 pm


Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing Advice sought for CC34

















Robert and Jonathon, and all,








Thanks for the tips; are there suggestions about best practices when 


doing oil changes on the 34?





Mark
















  

 

 

From: Robert Abbott robertabb...@eastlink.ca


 To: Mark Meyer fastguy1...@yahoo.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 




 Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2012 9:05 AM


 Subject: Winterizing Advice sought for
 CC34


  

 





  


  
  




Mark:



  



  If your boat in 'on the hard', you will need a few pieces of
  hardware to do the job.oil pump, garden hose, large bucket and
  a 10' foot piece of the hose the same diameter as the hose that
  attaches to your raw water pump.



  



  Remove the hose on the inlet side of your water pumpattach the
  10' piece to the water pump and place the other end in the bucket
  in the cockpit and fill with water from the garden hose..start
  your engine and let it run until the engine reaches normal
  operating temp..keep the water level in the bucket so you are
  not sucking in air.



  



  Shut engine down.change the oil and filter.



  



  Now empty water from the bucket and put your antifreeze in the
  bucket..2 gallons will be more than enough.start your
  engine and run until you see antifreeze exiting from your
  exhaust.shut engine down.



  



  Some people leave the 10' hose connected to the water pump all
  wintermakes it easy in the Spring to start your engine before
  launch to retrieve the antifreeze in the engine.  Some disconnect
  it and reconnect the raw water hose.



  



  Hope this helps.



  



  Bob Abbott



  AZURA



  CC 32 - 84



  Halifax, N.S.



  



  



  



  



  



  On 2012/11/12 11:03 PM, Mark Meyer wrote:







  

Hi List,







Short season for me this year, bought our CC34 this spring
and did a lot



to bring her back to where she needs to be. But I'm late
winterizing the Diesel 



engine and am looking for advice and tricks to speed me through
getting



this engine done.







Any Advice?











Thanks in advance,











Mark Meyer



SV Freedom, Whitehall MI












  


  



  
  



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Re: Stus-List Winterizing Advice sought for CC34

2012-11-14 Thread Andrew Burton
Well, be careful. I had a mechanic--hired by the owner--do that on the big
Volvo on a Swan 65 once. Had to replace the engine!

On Wed, Nov 14, 2012 at 6:16 PM, johnr...@aol.com wrote:

 This has been done on this boat for years.  You just need to be prudent.
  However, it still makes it easy to do the bucket thing, as well.



 -Original Message-
 From: Andrew Burton a.burton.sai...@gmail.com
 To: cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Sent: Wed, Nov 14, 2012 6:11 pm
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing Advice sought for CC34

  I've seen advice like this a couple of times. Be very careful about
 hooking an land pressure water hose to your raw water system. As a matter
 of fact, don't do it. You can end up filling the exhaust manifold and the
 cylinders with water, which unsurprisingly, is bad for the engine. Far
 better to remove the raw water intake and put it in a bucket and let the
 water pump draw water at the required rate.

 Andrew Burton

 Newport, RI

 http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/

 On Wed, Nov 14, 2012 at 6:05 PM, johnr...@aol.com wrote:

 Or have a very resourceful PO who plumbed in circuit with a valve and
 hose connection that enables one to close off the the outside intake,
 connect hose to outside water source, open the valve in the plumbed in
 circuit and run the engine quite merrily in minutes.

  Cheers,
 John
 Falcon -- CC 29-2


 -Original Message-
 From: Mark Meyer fastguy1...@yahoo.com
 To: Robert Abbott robertabb...@eastlink.ca; cnc-list 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Sent: Wed, Nov 14, 2012 4:44 pm
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing Advice sought for CC34

  Robert and Jonathon, and all,


 Thanks for the tips; are there suggestions about best practices when
 doing oil changes on the 34?

 Mark


--
 *From:* Robert Abbott robertabb...@eastlink.ca
 *To:* Mark Meyer fastguy1...@yahoo.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *Sent:* Wednesday, November 14, 2012 9:05 AM
 *Subject:* Winterizing Advice sought for CC34

  Mark:

 If your boat in 'on the hard', you will need a few pieces of hardware to
 do the job.oil pump, garden hose, large bucket and a 10' foot piece of
 the hose the same diameter as the hose that attaches to your raw water pump.

 Remove the hose on the inlet side of your water pumpattach the 10'
 piece to the water pump and place the other end in the bucket in the
 cockpit and fill with water from the garden hose..start your engine and
 let it run until the engine reaches normal operating temp..keep the
 water level in the bucket so you are not sucking in air.

 Shut engine down.change the oil and filter.

 Now empty water from the bucket and put your antifreeze in the
 bucket..2 gallons will be more than enough.start your engine and
 run until you see antifreeze exiting from your exhaust.shut engine down.

 Some people leave the 10' hose connected to the water pump all
 wintermakes it easy in the Spring to start your engine before launch to
 retrieve the antifreeze in the engine.  Some disconnect it and reconnect
 the raw water hose.

 Hope this helps.

 Bob Abbott
 AZURA
 CC 32 - 84
 Halifax, N.S.





 On 2012/11/12 11:03 PM, Mark Meyer wrote:

 Hi List,

 Short season for me this year, bought our CC34 this spring and did a lot
 to bring her back to where she needs to be. But I'm late winterizing the
 Diesel
 engine and am looking for advice and tricks to speed me through getting
 this engine done.

 Any Advice?


 Thanks in advance,


 Mark Meyer
 SV Freedom, Whitehall MI



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 Albumhttp://www.cncphotoalbum.comcnc-l...@cnc-list.com




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-- 
Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone  +401 965 5260
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Re: Stus-List Headliner access panels

2012-11-14 Thread Sam Salter
Gary,
I was sailing around Rock Hall and Oxford. Didn't get to St Michaels.
Also went into Baltimore inner Harbour - had Ravens tickets!
Much more civilized on the western side, but great sailing over to the east.
Great sun and wind. No rain all week - unusual for the Chesapeake - well when 
we go anyway!
sam :-)
 

On 2012-11-14, at 3:05 PM, Gary Nylander gnylan...@atlanticbb.net wrote:

 Where were you, Sam? There is actually quite a bit over here, but just not a 
 whole bunch of commercialization, which is the way we like it. We're an hour 
 and a half from DC and Baltimore, so that is enough 'civilization' for most 
 of us.
  
 And about 5-600 miles of shoreline in our county alone - OK?
  
 Gary
 - Original Message -
 From: Sam Salter
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2012 2:31 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Headliner access panels
 
 I was sailing the eastern shore of Maryland about 6 weeks ago - your right 
 there is nothing there!
 Get it online:
 Sailrite: http://www.sailrite.com/3M-Dual-Lock-Type-250-1-Clear
 Amazon, eBay, office depot
 
 sam :-)
 
 
 On 2012-11-14, at 8:44 AM, Gary Nylander gnylan...@atlanticbb.net wrote:
 
 Where do you get it?
  
 Gary
 30-1 in the boondocks on the Eastern Shore of Maryland - Lowe's nearby, but 
 over 50 miles to anything else
 - Original Message -
 From: Sam Salter
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2012 8:51 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Headliner access panels
 
 Velcro might not be the answer, but I'm almost positive this will:
 
 http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/3M-Industrial/Adhesives/Promotions-New-Products/Reclosable-Fasteners/
 
 It's like super industrial strength velcro.
 
 It's not cheap but it is reusable. I've not used it for headliners but it 
 secures my Velocitek Speed Puck to the mast (about 1 lb) with a small 
 piece about  1 1/2 x 4. This stuff bites! We take it all over the world 
 when we sail and it's conquered big winds and big seas.
 
 sam :-)
 C7C 26  Liquorice
 Ghost Lake  Alberta
 
 
 On 13/11/12 4:42 PM, Jake Brodersen wrote:
 
 Joel,
 I plan on replacing some of mine.  I am thinking about using plastic 
 sheeting.  I stripped of the peeling vinyl a long time ago and just painted 
 the wood.  It is only 1/8” thick.  ¼” plywood would be hard to keep up 
 there using the stock Velcro.  I might screw my next set on, as the Velcro 
 just doesn’t seem to work well, especially in rough conditions.
 Jake
 Jake Brodersen
 CC 35 Mk-III
 Midnight Mistress
 Hampton VA
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel 
 Aronson
 Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2012 1:43 PM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Stus-List Headliner access panels
 Several of the panels have delaminated.  1/4 inch plywood would be too 
 thick.  Is there a better replacement?  Has anyone either re-used the vinyl 
 or found a replacement?  What glue would you use?
 Thanks!
 -- 
 Joel 
 301 541 8551
 
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Re: Stus-List Winterizing Advice sought for CC34

2012-11-14 Thread Marek Dziedzic
I haven't tried it myself, but I read many times in various forums about
making a hole on top of the oil filter with a screwdriver to drain the oil
from it.
Might be worth a try.

Marek (s/v Fennel) in Ottawa
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