Stus-List In the water
gt; > But for me, it's wrong generation, wrong quadrant. I'm a Kirk-era fan. Those > Borg things belong in the 24th Century. > > That is, unless you think (like some do) that the Borg were created when Will > Decker merged with V'Ger at the end of the first movie. > > > All the best, > > Edd > > --- > Edd M. Schillay > Starship Enterprise > NCC-1701-B > C&C 37+ | City Island, NY > www.StarshipSailing.com > --- > 914.332.4400 | Office > 914.332.1671 | Fax > 914.774.9767 | Mobile > --- > Sent via iPhone 5 > > On May 2, 2014, at 5:02 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > > wrote: > > That is "Borg Collective Vessel 34J51"... Though wouldn't all Borg Collective > ships operate as one entity? > > Right generation, wrong quadrant. > > Right, Edd? > > Rick Brass > > Sent from my iPad > > > > On May 2, 2014, at 13:57, "Dennis C. via CnC-List" < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > > wrote: > > > > > > > > > > We are the "listers". You will be assimilated. Resistance is futile. > > > > > > > > > > 7 of 9 > > > > > Bejorian Vessel 34J51 > > > > > > > > > ___ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > > ___ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > > -- next part -- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20140502/7cfb753a/attachment-0001.html> > > -- > > Message: 7 > Date: Fri, 2 May 2014 18:10:48 -0500 > From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Subject: Re: Stus-List trekies? > Message-ID: <9a213cee-7953-447c-9ac7-40487943c...@postaudio.net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252" > > ?All I ask is a tall ship, and a star to steer her by?? > > Captain Kirk, in the TOS episode The Ultimate Computer, quoting John > Masefield. > > Fred Street -- Minneapolis > S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^( > >> On May 2, 2014, at 6:03 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List >> wrote: >> >> Does mentioning Hornblower relate this to sailing? > > -- next part -- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20140502/ba8860c4/attachment-0001.html> > > -- > > Message: 8 > Date: Fri, 2 May 2014 19:19:06 -0400 > From: Stu via CnC-List > To: "C&C Email List" > Subject: Stus-List Leet's get back on topic > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Okay, so we had problems, lots of emails sent out (none were spam), people > got upset and some actually left the list. > > The list problems were not ours but that of other ISP?s trying to provide > some kind of security that did not work for everyone. > > We are working on keeping this list active and hopefully the members here > will get back on topic ? SAILING. The deck cows are gone, British Cars are > history and space characters should be next. > > If you have a problem with this list, contact me directly. There is no need > to burden everyone with your concerns. > > Lets get back to sailing and keep it that way. > > Stu > -- next part -- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20140502/fb94a068/attachment-0001.html> > > -- > > Message: 9 > Date: Sat, 3 May 2014 00:01:13 + > From: Martin DeYoung via CnC-List > To: Dennis C. , "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" > > Subject: Re: Stus-List Making a winch backing plate > Message-ID: <23eae197cc1b594fa8793397ebcd357d86b...@dmi3.dmi.local> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Calypso?s new backing plates (replacing 43 year old aluminum) are 2 layers of > .030 epoxy board with a thick layer of glass cloth and epoxy in the middle. > They sand and paint like fiberglass and will not corrode. We are filling and > back drilling
Stus-List Halyard
I must replace my main halyard due to improper winter storage, I guess by me, and significant chafing. Interested in recommendations for type and vendor. Do use UK Kevlar tape drive main for racing. Bill Walker C n C 36 Sent from my HTC ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Making a winch backing plate
Martin, Where did you get the epoxy board? Mike Virginia Lee 1978 C&C 36 CB Virginia Beach Sent from my iPad Mini > On May 3, 2014, at 9:01, Martin DeYoung via CnC-List > wrote: > > Calypso’s new backing plates (replacing 43 year old aluminum) are 2 layers of > .030 epoxy board with a thick layer of glass cloth and epoxy in the middle. > They sand and paint like fiberglass and will not corrode. We are filling and > back drilling the hardware mounting holes so the risk of crushing the deck > core is limited and the backing plates are a back-up. > > We used .030 GR4 epoxy board because the company I work at had a bunch left > over from a project and I was able to requisition it. The mid layer of glass > cloth is an easy way to add thickness and strength. We are able to make > custom shapes and thicknesses. We shape the edges much like Dennis describes > below. > > Martin > Calypso > 1971 C&C 43 > Seattle > > From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. > via CnC-List > Sent: Friday, May 02, 2014 3:12 PM > To: CnClist > Subject: Stus-List Making a winch backing plate > > Just thought I'd share my current project. > > I'm repairing a boat with a ripped off cabin top winch. The winch was > mounted on a pad molded in the deck. Molded in the deck under the pad was an > aluminum disc. The winch fasteners were tapped into the disc. The cabin > liner was immediately under that. The winch, pad and disc all separated from > the deck. > > Since there was no access to the underside of the pad, there was no easy way > to get beneath the pad and add structure for strength. The plan was to clean > up the pad, re-attach it with epoxy. Simply epoxying the pad down would have > very little strength so the winch needs to be through bolted. (Of course a > minor gelcoat repair is required to cosmetically finish the pad.) > > Since the backing plate will be visible from the cabin, it needs to be nice. > > Anyway, I ordered a couple of pieces of 1/4 inch aluminum plate on eBay. > (You can find cut scraps fairly cheap there.) I used my Bosch jigsaw with a > metal cutting blade to size the pad and rough trim the corners. Then I > shaped the corners with a belt sander with 80 grit and then finished all the > edges with the belt sander and 120 grit. The edges were hand sanded with 320 > grit. The exposed flat surface was hand sanded with 1000 grit wet/dry then > polished with a buffing wheel and polishing compound. Looks nice!! > > Whole process took about 30-40 minutes. The winch will be re-installed with > washers, lock washers and cap nuts for a nice finished look. > > Dennis C. > Touche' 35-1 #83 > Mandeville, LA > ___ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Making a winch backing plate
See paragraph 2 of Martin's note. Rich > On May 3, 2014, at 19:44, Mike Brannon via CnC-List > wrote: > > Martin, Where did you get the epoxy board? > > Mike > Virginia Lee > 1978 C&C 36 CB > Virginia Beach > > Sent from my iPad Mini > >> On May 3, 2014, at 9:01, Martin DeYoung via CnC-List >> wrote: >> >> Calypso’s new backing plates (replacing 43 year old aluminum) are 2 layers >> of .030 epoxy board with a thick layer of glass cloth and epoxy in the >> middle. They sand and paint like fiberglass and will not corrode. We are >> filling and back drilling the hardware mounting holes so the risk of >> crushing the deck core is limited and the backing plates are a back-up. >> >> We used .030 GR4 epoxy board because the company I work at had a bunch left >> over from a project and I was able to requisition it. The mid layer of >> glass cloth is an easy way to add thickness and strength. We are able to >> make custom shapes and thicknesses. We shape the edges much like Dennis >> describes below. >> >> Martin >> Calypso >> 1971 C&C 43 >> Seattle >> >> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. >> via CnC-List >> Sent: Friday, May 02, 2014 3:12 PM >> To: CnClist >> Subject: Stus-List Making a winch backing plate >> >> Just thought I'd share my current project. >> >> I'm repairing a boat with a ripped off cabin top winch. The winch was >> mounted on a pad molded in the deck. Molded in the deck under the pad was >> an aluminum disc. The winch fasteners were tapped into the disc. The cabin >> liner was immediately under that. The winch, pad and disc all separated >> from the deck. >> >> Since there was no access to the underside of the pad, there was no easy way >> to get beneath the pad and add structure for strength. The plan was to >> clean up the pad, re-attach it with epoxy. Simply epoxying the pad down >> would have very little strength so the winch needs to be through bolted. >> (Of course a minor gelcoat repair is required to cosmetically finish the >> pad.) >> >> Since the backing plate will be visible from the cabin, it needs to be nice. >> >> Anyway, I ordered a couple of pieces of 1/4 inch aluminum plate on eBay. >> (You can find cut scraps fairly cheap there.) I used my Bosch jigsaw with a >> metal cutting blade to size the pad and rough trim the corners. Then I >> shaped the corners with a belt sander with 80 grit and then finished all the >> edges with the belt sander and 120 grit. The edges were hand sanded with >> 320 grit. The exposed flat surface was hand sanded with 1000 grit wet/dry >> then polished with a buffing wheel and polishing compound. Looks nice!! >> >> Whole process took about 30-40 minutes. The winch will be re-installed with >> washers, lock washers and cap nuts for a nice finished look. >> >> Dennis C. >> Touche' 35-1 #83 >> Mandeville, LA >> ___ >> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com > ___ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Halyard
Checkout apsltd.com You can contact them for advice on the latest line for halyards. There are so many choices. They can make it to length and splice the ends for you however you want them. Chuck Resolute 1990 C&C 34R Atlantic City, NJ - Original Message - From: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" To: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" Sent: Saturday, May 3, 2014 3:42:48 PM Subject: Stus-List Halyard I must replace my main halyard due to improper winter storage, I guess by me, and significant chafing. Interested in recommendations for type and vendor. Do use UK Kevlar tape drive main for racing. Bill Walker C n C 36 Sent from my HTC ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Untie the lines
Thanks for posting this It is a nice blog ,I really appreciated the work she undertook on the hull and her feelings about that Been there ,done that DDrake 73 JH C&C 26 > On Apr 22, 2014, at 8:46 PM, Jean-Francois J Rivard > wrote: > > Hey, have you guys been following Nike's blog (Pronounced Neeka) called > "Untie the Lines" on YouTube? > > https://www.youtube.com/user/WhiteSpotPirates > > This is another video blog about someone whom went for it. This nice young > German lady sold a bunch of stuff, moved out of the land lubbers house and > bought a boat to explore the globe. She's really fun and inspiring to watch. > She bought this somewhat derelict Henke Super 10 in Panama and going through > a MAJOR refit. Everything on the boat was a major project. > > I'm talking EVERYTHING. Doing the bottom job she found several corrosion > holes in the "Aluminium" yep they had to do some pretty major welding to > patch the holes.. The mold growing on the teak in the cabin looked like > Bonsai trees growing out of the cabinets. (Makes me itch just typing this > ..) > > Anyway, the videos are nicely edited (No shaky teenage phone cam crap here) > and great to watch. She's an impressive (And attractive) 32 year old young > lady. > > Check it out. > > -Francois > 1990 C&C 34+ "Take Five" > Lake Lanier, Georgia > > ___ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Halyard
I agree that APS is a good source. With your main you obviously want low stretch. If I were to replace my 7/16 VPC I would do 1/4 inch dyneema with a dyneema cover for the shackle end and a poly cover for the clutch. Low stretch, light weight affordable and easy to DIY. Joel 35/3 Annapolis On Saturday, May 3, 2014, Chuck S via CnC-List wrote: > Checkout apsltd.com > You can contact them for advice on the latest line for halyards. There > are so many choices. > They can make it to length and splice the ends for you however you want > them. > > > Chuck > Resolute > 1990 C&C 34R > Atlantic City, NJ > > -- > *From: *"CNC boat owners, cnc-list" > > > > *To: *"CNC boat owners, cnc-list" > > > > *Sent: *Saturday, May 3, 2014 3:42:48 PM > *Subject: *Stus-List Halyard > > > I must replace my main halyard due to improper winter storage, I guess by > me, and significant chafing. > Interested in recommendations for type and vendor. Do use UK Kevlar tape > drive main for racing. > Bill Walker > C n C 36 > Sent from my HTC > > > ___ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > > -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List Update on jammed transmission lever
Your collective advice was to replace the shift cable (and throttle cable as well) so I have proceeded to try to do that but have run into another problem. Following the directions on the Edson website, I delved into the pedestal, moved the throttle cable to the port side, unscrewed the cable clamp from the pedestal housing and then tried to pull the cables up to gain access to the clamp. As the directions suggested, this was difficult to do, as the clamp gets jammed against the steering chain. Cranking the wheel from port to starboard helped, as they suggested, but not enough. So the next advice was to loosen the steering cable (what a PITA!) so I could lift the chain over the sprocket teeth and forward up to the wheel brake. That helped also, but still not enough. I think the trouble is that the cable clamp is made for 3 cables, not two, so the part without a cable in it still gets jammed under part of the pedestal casting, and I cannot get it out. How to proceed? Advice needed! One thought is to unbolt the pedestal from the cockpit floor and tip it over so I can pull the cables with the clamp out the bottom of the pedestal. Of course the chain/cables will need to be a lot looser than they are now, and I hesitate to disconnect the cables from the quadrant completely. Maybe as they are already loose (from loosening the nuts on the eyebolt), I could pop the cable off one of the sheaves that the cable runs over, and perhaps that would loosen the cable sufficiently that I could tip the pedestal over. But before I try something like that, it would be great if I could get some further input from the list. Would hate to do something that made a big repair necessary. Thanks! Eric C&C 35 MkII Mattapoisett, MA > Did that - clear result. The lever at the pedestal is still jammed - cable > won't move. But the transmission is easy to shift even by hand, so it's > fine. That seems a good (i.e. easier and cheaper-to-fix) result. Opened the > pedestal, removed the compass, and the shifting mechanism looks fine from the > top view. So seems likely that the cable is rusted, perhaps right down near > where it exits the sheathing and connects to the tranny lever. Would moving > the cable around with pliers right where it exits the sheath, perhaps > squirting with penetrating oil help? Other suggestions? > > Eric > >> You have the first step: disconnect the cable at the lever and see if the >> tx lever moves. >> >> Rich >> >>> On Apr 27, 2014, at 7:36, Eric Frank wrote: >>> >>> Just replaced the PYI dripless "stuffing box" on Cat's Paw, a 35 C&C Mk II. >>> With lots of help from the list last fall, got the old one out and just >>> replaced it with a new one last weekend. The re-installation went very >>> smoothly and I thought all was well. But when I fired up the Perkins >>> diesel yesterday (still on the hard), the shift lever is stuck in neutral. >>> I noticed that was true last weekend just after the install, but figured >>> the engine needed to be running to get it in gear. No banging needed on the >>> prop shaft to drive the shaft back into the coupling, so I don't think >>> there was any strain on the transmission. Would like advice about where to >>> look for the jam. In the shift lever from the pedestal? In the transmission >>> itself? Maybe disconnect the shift cable from the transmission and see if I >>> can then move the shift lever? Advice from the list soon would be greatly >>> appreciated. Launch date is slated for this week, but if the prop shaft >>> has to be disconnected from the tranny to fix things, launch needs to be >>> delayed. >>> >>> Thanks for advice! Don't know what to try. >>> >>> Eric ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
