Re: Stus-List C&C 33 MKII

[mike amirault via CnC-List]

Congrats, Bradley, great boat, I bought my C&C33 MKii two years ago. Yes, the 
sheaves are grooved for wire halyards. I elected to keep the wire halyards 
because the rope size works better in the clutches and self tailing winches. 
You may want to check the sheaves bushings for wear; I  replaced the bushings 
in my sheaves with oillite bronze from Princess auto. My instruments were also 
trash so I put in a Raymarine speed/depth/ wind package, very nice and 
economical. I have made many upgrades in the past two years; feel free to email 
me off list if there is anything I can help you with.

Mike Amirault
"Lovely Cruise" C&C 33 mkii
St Margarets Bay, NS.___

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Re: Stus-List C&C 33 MKII

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Where is home?  There are probably a few volunteers to help deliver.

I replaced my wire with 3/8th Yale Crystalline.  I had to fiddle with the
winch to get it to self tail properly.  The clutches worked fine.  If you
needed to you could put a second jacket on the lower portion to provide
better hand and fit the winches and clutches.  I would try it first and add
the jacket later if needed.  I like being able to freshen up the head end
easily.  I also like not having to worry about "fish hooks" AND if the
halyard needs cut I won't need special cutters, just a knife.

The groved sheeves will "box" the line.  Not really a problem.  Might
reduce overall life.

I have repulled new wind instruments using the old wire.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Feb 19, 2015 7:43 PM, "Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Purchased a 1985 C&C 33 MKII this winter, doing some research on updating
> and refreshing stuff. So I have a few questions, if you'll bear with me.
> Mast is up and theres several feet of snow in the boatyard, 200 miles from
> here. Also boat needs to come home around May long weekend, likely a 450
> mile sail.
> 1)Halyards are rope/cable, and badly worn/weathered, I've read that the
> new synthetics are much stronger and we can actually downsize to 3/8 and
> skip the wire cable?
> 2)Are the sheaves grooved to fit the cable? Should they be changed out?
> What size might they be?
> It looks to me like the rope clutches may accommodate the smaller lines
> (spec says originals are 7/16)
> 3)Instruments are pretty much done, I think they're original signet, wind
> unit is off mast, is there the possibility that I could pull new wires in
> while pulling the old wires out and install new wind unit without taking
> the mast down? (no, heights don't bother me)
> I have a gently used Loran unit if anyone is interested...;))
> Thats enough questions for one night
> Thanks
> Brad
>
> Sent, miraculously through cyberspace,
> from my iPad!
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
___

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Re: Stus-List C&C 33 MKII

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Cool to see some activity here from C&C 33 mkII owners and congrats Bradley on 
the new boat . 2015 will be my fifth season with the boat (previously own a 29 
mkII) and this boat is amazing. Very easy to sail fast, tracks well so fairly 
predictable if caught overpowered. I have the '87 "millesime" so the mast is 
from Offshore spar and is very nice to work with.
 
I would be interested to know what kind of upgrades and modifications other 
owners have done on their boat. You can reply in private if you prefer.
 
 I try each year to put some love and $ in my boat to make her stronger, faster 
and more comformtable. This year i plan to laminate a reinforcement grid in the 
flat area of the bilge in front of the keel, (i think this part flexes too much 
in heavy sea), new rudder, clean the fuel tank, change the hoses (fuel and 
exaust), change the shaft, new PSS, new cutlass bearing, engine compartment 
isolation, new speedo, new spninlock rope clutch for halyard. the boom is in 
the basement for maintenance of the sheaves. Will check bushings at the same 
time. and i'm having the navtec backstay rebuilt, an other time...
 
I want to change my jib sheet and i would like to know the smallest size that 
could still work well with my Barient 24 ST?? 
 
Pretty much the 2015 to do list. 
 
Thinking about changing the headstay this year too, maybe go with Dyform... but 
i think i will wait one more year, my list is long enough.
 
Bruno Lachance
"Bécassine" C&C 33 mkII
New-Richmond, Qc.
 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2015 10:08:43 -0400
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 33 MKII
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com








Congrats, Bradley, great boat, I bought my 
C&C33 MKii two years ago. Yes, the sheaves are grooved for wire 
halyards. I elected to keep the wire halyards because the rope size works 
better in the clutches and self tailing winches. You may want to check the 
sheaves bushings for wear; I  replaced the bushings in my sheaves with 
oillite bronze from Princess auto. My instruments were also trash so I put in a 
Raymarine speed/depth/ wind package, very nice and economical. I have made many 
upgrades in the past two years; feel free to email me off list if there is 
anything I can help you with.
 
Mike Amirault
"Lovely Cruise" C&C 33 mkii
St Margarets Bay, NS.

___

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  ___

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Re: Stus-List State of the Battery

[djmocny via CnC-List]

david.r.mo...@ricoh-usa.comSent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone Original message From: Rick Brass via CnC-List  Date:02/02/2015  7:55 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: 'David Knecht' , cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List State of the Battery On Imzadi I have a Blue Seas digital voltage meter that I installed several years ago. It will monitor three battery banks, is very accurate, and I am happy with it. Knowing the voltage gave me a rough idea of the state of charge of each bank. But a couple of years ago I helped move a “real” cruising boat. The owner had just about everything I could think of to provide electric power – wind, solar, even an auxiliary generator driven off the propeller shaft to charge the batteries as the prop windmilled while sailing. To monitor his batteries he had a Link Pro battery monitor. For each bank, it tells current voltage, current amp flow in or out, number of amp hours used, number of amp hours remaining, and percentage of capacity remaining.  I decided that the Link Pro was overkill for my needs. I have a large house bank and a single starting battery – and the starting battery is ALWAYS at 12.5 or 12.6 volts, so I never worry about it. I chose to install a Link Lite battery monitor. It has all the functions above but for only one main bank. It does show the voltage for an auxiliary bank, which I have wired to my start battery. That’s redundant, since the same information is on the Blue Sea meter, but I sort of like that. I seem to recall it does not have temperature compensation, which the Link Pro offers, but it might be optional. Installation of the Link Lite was easy. The wiring harness has a pair of power wires, a sensor wire that goes to the positive terminal of each battery bank, and one or two wires that go to an included shunt that you splice into the negative cable of the main bank you are monitoring. When I decided to install my monitor a couple of years ago, the Link Lite was about $150 to $170 retail IIRC. On EBay they were generally $24 to $40 less. I kept looking short while, and actually bought the one I installed for under $100 – and it came with a small solar panel that I use to maintain the batteries on my 25. New in the box, the functionality I needed, and a bargain to boot. What can I say, I’m cheap.  Rick BrassWashington, NC   From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Knecht via CnC-ListSent: Monday, February 02, 2015 8:27 AMTo: CnC CnC discussion listSubject: Stus-List State of the Battery Looking at the wiring diagrams reminded me of a question I am sure this list can answer.  I have not done much cruising yet, but plan to do more in the future.  One of the things I am unsure of is how people monitor the state of their batteries when you know shore power is not going to be available.  I have a digital voltmeter on the panel that I can check the batteries and a chart that translates voltage into percent charge and I have used that as a rough guide, but that seems crude for such an important function.  My understanding is that you have let the batteries sit for a while if they have been charging to get an accurate reading.  I am not sure if current draws also have to be off.   For instance, how would I know if it is safe to run the refrigeration while sailing to the next destination?  Can you get a meter that gives you “hours of battery life remaining”?  What strategies to listers use to solve this problem?  Thanks- Dave Aries1990 C&C 34+New London, CT ___

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Re: Stus-List Need help from a fellow Cnc listers in Florida

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

I have to second Russ’s comment about truing the coupling. The engine will
also need to be realigned as a part of the process.

 

When I replaced the bent prop shaft on my 38 a couple of years ago (foredeck
crew was very apologetic about kicking a spin sheet over the side while
clearing a fouled line after a race. I now have high tech floating spin
sheets.), my repair included all that your friend is doing, and we also
found that one of the mounting flanges for the motor mounts that is part of
the bell housing was cracked when realigning the engine. (Happily,
Westerbeke/Universal replaced the bell housing and paid for part of the
repair as a warranty item.)

 

Point being that this is not a repair that you should try to do on the
cheap.

 

I’m curious as to why your friend is casting about for a shaft from the US?
I looked at the Noonsight website, and there seem to be at least three
repair yards/ marinas/ machine shops that are recommended for this type of
repair in Georgetown. With all the boats in that area, surely there is a
yard that can handle the whole process competently, and with a lot less
hassle.

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Russ &
Melody via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, February 18, 2015 11:25 PM
To: Bruno Lachance; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Need help from a fellow Cnc listers in Florida

 

Hi Bruno.

If this has been mentioned then I missed it. 
Please tell your friend (Fred) that a very important step in a successful
prop shaft install is to true the flange face with it mounted to the shaft.
Even with a brand new custom shaft & brand new coupling half, it is good to
true the face before install. The shaft is easily bent a wee bit in
handling. 
The truing process is really basic in the machining world, even an
apprentice might be tasked to it.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 04:10 PM 18/02/2015, you wrote:



Hello listers,

Thanks for the support, i received some good tips and it helps to limit
potential errors. 

here is the update on the situation. the cutlass and drive saver plate are
already on order. the most complicated part is to find or calculate the
right lenght of the prop shaft. the actual broken one was new before
departure last july, as is the PSS and the cutlass that will be replaces as
a precaution. my friend wants to have all the parts, and then do the repair
with the boat on a rustic travel lift nearby. 

the boat is a CS 36 Merlin 1988 with a Volvo engine, the transmission has a
4 inches flange. the shaft is 1 inch diameter and "about" 66 to 70 inches
long. Mine is 44 on my 33mkII So its pretty long...The prop is a Martec So
everything points to a standard SAE  Taper That is usually found on our
boats, the key is 1/4 and the coupling is actually a split coupling that
could fit on a "on the spot home cut to the right lenght, not face fitted"
shaft. but if he could have the shaft lenght from a good source, a new
fitted coupling would be on order.

I have been in contact with DeepBlue yacht supply in Fort Lauderdale and it
seems easy to order from their website. there is 3-4 days production time
before shipping. The good reviews from this list are reassuring. Thanks.

SO, i am still looking for the original shaft lenght, are the CS plans
available at the Maritime museum too? Any others sources for that info that
i could get my hands on before tomorrow? I doubt Holland Marine has that
info but will try tomorrow.

ALSO, we are still looking for someone that could pickup the shaft at
DeepBlue yacht supply and bring it few blocks away at Reggie Express
services that Fly from there to Georgetown, Exumas. we want to save the
additional shipping delay from UPS. Its just few kilometers away... 

Thanks for helping a fellow sailor and his family. the CS is still a very
nice boat!


Bruno Lachance
Becassine,33 mkII



Envoyé de mon iPad

> Le 2015-02-18 à 17:44, Bill Connon via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > a écrit :
> 
> Chuck S via CnC-List wrote:
>> Bruno,
>> You are a very good friend.
>> 
>> What make and model boat does your friend have?   1" Shaft".  Length?
Keyway dimensions?  Taper for the prop? Cutless bearing OD and length?
>> 
>> There is a slim chance someone on this list has replaced theirs so your
friend may have to haul the boat, remove the shaft, measure everything and
order the right parts?  If he's doing all this he should also replace the
piece of hose between the shaft log and the stuffing box if it's older than
10 years?
>> 
>> I doubt anybody but the builder keeps prop shaft dimensions for a
specific boat.  Best of luck.
>> 
>> Chuck
>> Resolute
>> 1990 C&C 34R
>> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
>> 
>> 
> I imagine that Bruno will be back with more details but in the meantime
the boat involved is a CS Merlin 36 ft. long. If somebody knows of a CS
newsgroup simil

Re: Stus-List C&C 33 MKII > Barient 24ST

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

The smallest line I have been able to  work in a Barient 24ST is 3/8”.  On
occasion even a 3/8” line will need a slight assist to stay in the tailer,
especially if the line has a vectran core or other relatively stiff core
material.  

 

Some line is actually metric [either 9 or 10 mm] though shown on websites as
3/8’s.  

 

Some line stoppers can be adjusted for the line size; ex. my Spinlock
stoppers have two different cam sizes.  

 

Brian

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruno
Lachance via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, February 20, 2015 10:29 AM
To: mike amirault; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 33 MKII

 

Cool to see some activity here from C&C 33 mkII owners and congrats Bradley
on the new boat . 2015 will be my fifth season with the boat (previously own
a 29 mkII) and this boat is amazing. Very easy to sail fast, tracks well so
fairly predictable if caught overpowered. I have the '87 "millesime" so the
mast is from Offshore spar and is very nice to work with.
 
I would be interested to know what kind of upgrades and modifications other
owners have done on their boat. You can reply in private if you prefer.
 
 I try each year to put some love and $ in my boat to make her stronger,
faster and more comformtable. This year i plan to laminate a reinforcement
grid in the flat area of the bilge in front of the keel, (i think this part
flexes too much in heavy sea), new rudder, clean the fuel tank, change the
hoses (fuel and exaust), change the shaft, new PSS, new cutlass bearing,
engine compartment isolation, new speedo, new spninlock rope clutch for
halyard. the boom is in the basement for maintenance of the sheaves. Will
check bushings at the same time. and i'm having the navtec backstay rebuilt,
an other time...
 
I want to change my jib sheet and i would like to know the smallest size
that could still work well with my Barient 24 ST?? 
 
Pretty much the 2015 to do list. 
 
Thinking about changing the headstay this year too, maybe go with Dyform...
but i think i will wait one more year, my list is long enough.
 
Bruno Lachance
"Bécassine" C&C 33 mkII
New-Richmond, Qc.
 

  _  

To:   cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2015 10:08:43 -0400
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 33 MKII
From:   cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Congrats, Bradley, great boat, I bought my C&C33 MKii two years ago. Yes,
the sheaves are grooved for wire halyards. I elected to keep the wire
halyards because the rope size works better in the clutches and self tailing
winches. You may want to check the sheaves bushings for wear; I  replaced
the bushings in my sheaves with oillite bronze from Princess auto. My
instruments were also trash so I put in a Raymarine speed/depth/ wind
package, very nice and economical. I have made many upgrades in the past two
years; feel free to email me off list if there is anything I can help you
with.

 

Mike Amirault

"Lovely Cruise" C&C 33 mkii

St Margarets Bay, NS.


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Re: Stus-List C&C 33 MKII

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Agreed. I just up/downgraded my jib halyard from 7/16 hi-tech (I don't even 
remember what) to 11mm VPC. Looks great, feels good (not up yet) and has 
less stretch than Sta-set X for about the same dollars. Thanks to a lister, 
got it for 40% off on West's one day sale!


I (1980 boat) switched to all rope halyards nearly 20 years ago - did not 
change sheaves - my hi-tech halyard was damaged more by the rope clutch than 
the sheave, hence the replacement. And, 20 years is not bad!


Unless you have a huge budget, look at Garhauer for any equipment you may 
need. I have gradually moved to their stuff over the years and am pleased. 
You do, however have to use polish on it every now and again. I have solid 
vang, rope vang for my split backstay adjuster, adjustable genoa track/cars 
and rope clutch. All perform as advertised.


Gary
30-1
- Original Message - 
From: "jtsails via CnC-List" 

To: "Bradley Lumgair" ; 
Sent: Thursday, February 19, 2015 8:19 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 33 MKII


I'll point out that it is true that the high tech synthetic are much 
stronger and do allow you to down size, they can be very hard on the hands 
and not work well with rope clutches and self-tailing winches. The other 
option is to stay with the original size and use a Mid-tech rope such as 
New England VPC. It is easier on the hands, works very well in rope 
clutches and winches, and the vectran core has very little "creep" which 
is very important for a halyard that is under constant strain.

James
"Delaney"
1976 C&C 38
Oriental, NC


-Original Message- 
From: Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List

Sent: Thursday, February 19, 2015 7:42 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List C&C 33 MKII

Purchased a 1985 C&C 33 MKII this winter, doing some research on updating 
and refreshing stuff. So I have a few questions, if you'll bear with me. 
Mast is up and theres several feet of snow in the boatyard, 200 miles from 
here. Also boat needs to come home around May long weekend, likely a 450 
mile sail.
1)Halyards are rope/cable, and badly worn/weathered, I've read that the 
new synthetics are much stronger and we can actually downsize to 3/8 and 
skip the wire cable?
2)Are the sheaves grooved to fit the cable? Should they be changed out? 
What size might they be?
It looks to me like the rope clutches may accommodate the smaller lines 
(spec says originals are 7/16)
3)Instruments are pretty much done, I think they're original signet, wind 
unit is off mast, is there the possibility that I could pull new wires in 
while pulling the old wires out and install new wind unit without taking 
the mast down? (no, heights don't bother me)

I have a gently used Loran unit if anyone is interested...;))
Thats enough questions for one night
Thanks
Brad

Sent, miraculously through cyberspace,
from my iPad!
___

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Re: Stus-List C&C 33 MKII

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

I give a big +1 for Gauhauer. Easy to work with and very good at quite 
affordable prices. And if there is any issue, you can call them and talk to 
Guido. They would try accommodating just about any request you might have. 
E.g. they built a 3:1/6:1 mainsheet block for me, even though it wasn't in 
their catalogue.


Marek (in (really cold) Ottawa)

-Original Message- 
From: Gary Nylander via CnC-List

Sent: Friday, February 20, 2015 9:31 AM
To: jtsails ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 33 MKII

Agreed. I just up/downgraded my jib halyard from 7/16 hi-tech (I don't even
remember what) to 11mm VPC. Looks great, feels good (not up yet) and has
less stretch than Sta-set X for about the same dollars. Thanks to a lister,
got it for 40% off on West's one day sale!

I (1980 boat) switched to all rope halyards nearly 20 years ago - did not
change sheaves - my hi-tech halyard was damaged more by the rope clutch than
the sheave, hence the replacement. And, 20 years is not bad!

Unless you have a huge budget, look at Garhauer for any equipment you may
need. I have gradually moved to their stuff over the years and am pleased.
You do, however have to use polish on it every now and again. I have solid
vang, rope vang for my split backstay adjuster, adjustable genoa track/cars
and rope clutch. All perform as advertised.

Gary
30-1
- Original Message - 
From: "jtsails via CnC-List" 

To: "Bradley Lumgair" ; 
Sent: Thursday, February 19, 2015 8:19 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 33 MKII


I'll point out that it is true that the high tech synthetic are much 
stronger and do allow you to down size, they can be very hard on the hands 
and not work well with rope clutches and self-tailing winches. The other 
option is to stay with the original size and use a Mid-tech rope such as 
New England VPC. It is easier on the hands, works very well in rope 
clutches and winches, and the vectran core has very little "creep" which 
is very important for a halyard that is under constant strain.

James
"Delaney"
1976 C&C 38
Oriental, NC


-Original Message- 
From: Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List

Sent: Thursday, February 19, 2015 7:42 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List C&C 33 MKII

Purchased a 1985 C&C 33 MKII this winter, doing some research on updating 
and refreshing stuff. So I have a few questions, if you'll bear with me. 
Mast is up and theres several feet of snow in the boatyard, 200 miles from 
here. Also boat needs to come home around May long weekend, likely a 450 
mile sail.
1)Halyards are rope/cable, and badly worn/weathered, I've read that the 
new synthetics are much stronger and we can actually downsize to 3/8 and 
skip the wire cable?
2)Are the sheaves grooved to fit the cable? Should they be changed out? 
What size might they be?
It looks to me like the rope clutches may accommodate the smaller lines 
(spec says originals are 7/16)
3)Instruments are pretty much done, I think they're original signet, wind 
unit is off mast, is there the possibility that I could pull new wires in 
while pulling the old wires out and install new wind unit without taking 
the mast down? (no, heights don't bother me)

I have a gently used Loran unit if anyone is interested...;))
Thats enough questions for one night
Thanks
Brad

Sent, miraculously through cyberspace,
from my iPad!
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Stus-List Refilling 10 lb propane tank

[mike amirault via CnC-List]

Hello all. I brought my 10lb aluminum tank to Costco Halifax today for a 
refill. The attendant did fill it but informed me that they are not supposed to 
fill them any more because aluminum tanks are considered "commercial" and are 
to be taxed accordingly which Costco is not set up to do at the pumps. This 
sounds like a lot of BS to me. Has anyone else run into this?___

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Re: Stus-List Refilling 10 lb propane tank

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Never run into it myself.  Here in Maryland I just take'm to the local Ace
hardware.  They are cheapest $/lb.  I also had them filled in long island.
No problems.

Josh
On Feb 20, 2015 6:09 PM, "mike amirault via CnC-List" 
wrote:

>  Hello all. I brought my 10lb aluminum tank to Costco Halifax today for a
> refill. The attendant did fill it but informed me that they are not
> supposed to fill them any more because aluminum tanks are considered
> "commercial" and are to be taxed accordingly which Costco is not set up to
> do at the pumps. This sounds like a lot of BS to me. Has anyone else run
> into this?
>
> ___
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Stus-List salt water siphoning into sink

[mike amirault via CnC-List]

On a  C&C 33 mkii, has anyone experienced salt (or lake) water filling up the 
sink in the head when heeled over hard on a stbd tack? Mine was filling up and 
overflowing unless the sink plug was in or the drain cock closed. I suppose the 
proper thing for a seaman to do would be to close the drain cock but this can 
be inconvenient when cruising. I installed a check valve and this worked but it 
is not of marine quality and is corroding. I don't think a vented loop will 
work on a gravity fed drain. Any other solutions?___

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Re: Stus-List salt water siphoning into sink

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Same problem on my 35/3.  I'll try a check valve or add an inline shutoff.

Joel
35/3
Annapolis

On Friday, February 20, 2015, mike amirault via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>  On a  C&C 33 mkii, has anyone experienced salt (or lake) water filling
> up the sink in the head when heeled over hard on a stbd tack? Mine was
> filling up and overflowing unless the sink plug was in or the drain cock
> closed. I suppose the proper thing for a seaman to do would be to close the
> drain cock but this can be inconvenient when cruising. I installed a check
> valve and this worked but it is not of marine quality and is corroding. I
> don't think a vented loop will work on a gravity fed drain. Any other
> solutions?
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List salt water siphoning into sink

[Mike Brannon via CnC-List]

My 36 does this.  My solution is to close the valve while underway,  I wouldn't 
rely on a check valve to prevent flooding.  My Navy experience tells me they 
are prone to failure.  

Mike

Virginia Lee 93295
1978 C&C 36 CB
Virginia Beach, VA

Sent from my iPad Mini

> On Feb 20, 2015, at 18:32, mike amirault via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> On a  C&C 33 mkii, has anyone experienced salt (or lake) water filling up the 
> sink in the head when heeled over hard on a stbd tack? Mine was filling up 
> and overflowing unless the sink plug was in or the drain cock closed. I 
> suppose the proper thing for a seaman to do would be to close the drain cock 
> but this can be inconvenient when cruising. I installed a check valve and 
> this worked but it is not of marine quality and is corroding. I don't think a 
> vented loop will work on a gravity fed drain. Any other solutions?
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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> of page at:
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Re: Stus-List salt water siphoning into sink

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Our 37 does this.  It is one way to clean the heads I suppose.  We close
the seacock.

Ken H.

On 20 February 2015 at 19:32, mike amirault via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>  On a  C&C 33 mkii, has anyone experienced salt (or lake) water filling
> up the sink in the head when heeled over hard on a stbd tack? Mine was
> filling up and overflowing unless the sink plug was in or the drain cock
> closed. I suppose the proper thing for a seaman to do would be to close the
> drain cock but this can be inconvenient when cruising. I installed a check
> valve and this worked but it is not of marine quality and is corroding. I
> don't think a vented loop will work on a gravity fed drain. Any other
> solutions?
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List salt water siphoning into sink

[Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List]

The 39 TM does the same thing I just close the valve 
Honey
US12789

Jack Fitzgerald 

> On Feb 20, 2015, at 19:35, Ken Heaton via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Our 37 does this.  It is one way to clean the heads I suppose.  We close the 
> seacock.
> 
> Ken H.
> 
>> On 20 February 2015 at 19:32, mike amirault via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> On a  C&C 33 mkii, has anyone experienced salt (or lake) water filling up 
>> the sink in the head when heeled over hard on a stbd tack? Mine was filling 
>> up and overflowing unless the sink plug was in or the drain cock closed. I 
>> suppose the proper thing for a seaman to do would be to close the drain cock 
>> but this can be inconvenient when cruising. I installed a check valve and 
>> this worked but it is not of marine quality and is corroding. I don't think 
>> a vented loop will work on a gravity fed drain. Any other solutions?
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
>> of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
> ___
> 
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Re: Stus-List salt water siphoning into sink

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

my 33mkII did the same before, and a friend with a 33 mkII suggested to had a 
plastic valve right under the drain (white valve with red knob/ handle), found 
in hardware store and Marine store. this is way more convenient to close than 
the hard to reach under the port settee. easy to open and close when using the 
head. no more water spilling on a hard starboard beat.

Bruno
Becassine 

Envoyé de mon iPad

> Le 2015-02-20 à 19:36, Ken Heaton via CnC-List  a 
> écrit :
> 
> Our 37 does this.  It is one way to clean the heads I suppose.  We close the 
> seacock.
> 
> Ken H.
> 
>> On 20 February 2015 at 19:32, mike amirault via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> On a  C&C 33 mkii, has anyone experienced salt (or lake) water filling up 
>> the sink in the head when heeled over hard on a stbd tack? Mine was filling 
>> up and overflowing unless the sink plug was in or the drain cock closed. I 
>> suppose the proper thing for a seaman to do would be to close the drain cock 
>> but this can be inconvenient when cruising. I installed a check valve and 
>> this worked but it is not of marine quality and is  corroding. I don't think 
>> a vented loop will work on a gravity fed drain. Any other solutions?
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
>> of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
> ___
> 
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> of page at:
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Re: Stus-List salt water siphoning into sink

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Seems a common problem, I get this on my 35-3.  My solution was to add a 
ball valve just under the sink drain, easily accessible in the head.  I 
know the more "seaman" like solution is to shut off the seacock, but to 
be honest I do not.  If someone is using the sink in the head they open 
the valve to drain the sink.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2015-02-20 7:32 PM, mike amirault via CnC-List wrote:
On a  C&C 33 mkii, has anyone experienced salt (or lake) water filling 
up the sink in the head when heeled over hard on a stbd tack? Mine was 
filling up and overflowing unless the sink plug was in or the drain 
cock closed. I suppose the proper thing for a seaman to do would be to 
close the drain cock but this can be inconvenient when cruising. I 
installed a check valve and this worked but it is not of marine 
quality and is corroding. I don't think a vented loop will work on a 
gravity fed drain. Any other solutions?



___

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Re: Stus-List Refilling 10 lb propane tank

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Sounds bogus, I'd ask for a manager. But I don't have a costco 
membership, I get mine filled down the road at ultimate home comfort (by 
the self storage).  I'm sure it costs more.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2015-02-20 7:08 PM, mike amirault via CnC-List wrote:
Hello all. I brought my 10lb aluminum tank to Costco Halifax today for 
a refill. The attendant did fill it but informed me that they are not 
supposed to fill them any more because aluminum tanks are considered 
"commercial" and are to be taxed accordingly which Costco is not set 
up to do at the pumps. This sounds like a lot of BS to me. Has anyone 
else run into this?



___

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Re: Stus-List salt water siphoning into sink

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

1) Don't put your wallet in the sink!
2) "Upgrade" to a 35-1.  It doesn't do this.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Fri, Feb 20, 2015 at 5:32 PM, mike amirault via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>  On a  C&C 33 mkii, has anyone experienced salt (or lake) water filling
> up the sink in the head when heeled over hard on a stbd tack? Mine was
> filling up and overflowing unless the sink plug was in or the drain cock
> closed. I suppose the proper thing for a seaman to do would be to close the
> drain cock but this can be inconvenient when cruising. I installed a check
> valve and this worked but it is not of marine quality and is corroding. I
> don't think a vented loop will work on a gravity fed drain. Any other
> solutions?
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List salt water siphoning into sink

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

Same on the 40. I just close the thru-hull, like the others do.

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

> On Feb 20, 2015, at 20:01, Bruno Lachance via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> my 33mkII did the same before, and a friend with a 33 mkII suggested to had a 
> plastic valve right under the drain (white valve with red knob/ handle), 
> found in hardware store and Marine store. this is way more convenient to 
> close than the hard to reach under the port settee. easy to open and close 
> when using the head. no more water spilling on a hard starboard beat.
> 
> Bruno
> Becassine 
> 
> Envoyé de mon iPad
> 
>> Le 2015-02-20 à 19:36, Ken Heaton via CnC-List  a 
>> écrit :
>> 
>> Our 37 does this.  It is one way to clean the heads I suppose.  We close the 
>> seacock.
>> 
>> Ken H.
>> 
>>> On 20 February 2015 at 19:32, mike amirault via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> On a  C&C 33 mkii, has anyone experienced salt (or lake) water filling up 
>>> the sink in the head when heeled over hard on a stbd tack? Mine was filling 
>>> up and overflowing unless the sink plug was in or the drain cock closed. I 
>>> suppose the proper thing for a seaman to do would be to close the drain 
>>> cock but this can be inconvenient when cruising. I installed a check valve 
>>> and this worked but it is not of marine quality and is corroding. I don't 
>>> think a vented loop will work on a gravity fed drain. Any other solutions?
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Email address:
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
>>> bottom of page at:
>>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>> 
>> ___
>> 
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>> of page at:
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Re: Stus-List salt water siphoning into sink

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Thanks Dennis!

That is my thought too. I'm glad you presented it.

Get the sink closer to centreline.
Seems like a lot of "newer" design have that 
common flaw. I wonder why the C&C team didn't recognize it ... :)


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

BTW, it's not really siphoning into so much as flooding out of, the sink.

At 06:51 PM 20/02/2015, you wrote:

1) Don't put your wallet in the sink!
2) "Upgrade" to a 35-1.  It doesn't do this.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Fri, Feb 20, 2015 at 5:32 PM, mike amirault 
via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
On a  C&C 33 mkii, has anyone experienced salt 
(or lake) water filling up the sink in the head 
when heeled over hard on a stbd tack? Mine was 
filling up and overflowing unless the sink plug 
was in or the drain cock closed. I suppose the 
proper thing for a seaman to do would be to 
close the drain cock but this can be 
inconvenient when cruising. I installed a check 
valve and this worked but it is not of marine 
quality and is corroding. I don't think a vented 
loop will work on a gravity fed drain. Any other solutions?


___

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