Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives?

2015-10-13 Thread robert via CnC-List 

Chuck et al:

I have not heard of the productwhere do you buy it?..automotive 
store, marine store, hardware store?


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2015-10-13 11:04 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List wrote:
Not sure why it works, but I saw improvement.  I add an ounce of 
SEAFOAM to each gallon of fuel and one ounce to each quart of oil.  I 
add it to the oil when I change it each Fall, and I add it to my 
boat's fuel tank just before I add fuel. The can is 16oz and I only 
add 5 oz to the engine and 5 oz to the fuel tank when I pour in a 5 
gallon jerry can.  The balance of an open can goes into my car's gas 
tank.  It's very thin and seems to help starting and smooth running.



Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md


*From: *"robert via CnC-List" 
*To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc: *"robert" 
*Sent: *Tuesday, October 13, 2015 9:47:52 PM
*Subject: *Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives?

Check this out:

http://seafoamsales.com/sea-foam-motor-treatment/



Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2015-10-13 10:23 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List wrote:

I suspect most old car guys are familiar with Seafoam. Though I
can't recall exactly what is in it. I've always used it as an
additive for gasoline engines - boat fuel, mower fuel, oil mix for
power tools and the outboard. I think of it as a better
alternative to Stabil.

Can't say as I've ever thought about it as Diesel additive, or
added it to engine oil. Might be a good thing to check out.

Rick Brass
Washington, NC

Sent from my iPad

On Oct 13, 2015, at 20:43, Chuck S via CnC-List
 wrote:

Hi Rick,
A friend who works on cars and has a 32 foot sailboat for 25
years that looks better than new, suggested I use *SeaFoam *in
both fuel and engine oil.  It's inexpensive and seems to make
starting much easier, so I've been using that for the last 8
years.  I use Bio-Flo Jr when I top off the tank for winter. 
Any thoughts on SeaFoam?


Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md


*From: *"Rick Brass via CnC-List" 
*To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
*Cc: *"Rick Brass" >
*Sent: *Monday, October 12, 2015 8:52:03 PM
*Subject: *Re: Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives?

All diesel is made to the same set of standards. The red stuff
just has a dye  in it to indicate that the highway fuel tax
has not been paid.

When your engine was built, diesel fuel had 5000 parts per
million of Sulphur content. The Sulphur was a significant
factor in lubricating the injection pump, injectors, etc.

In the mid to late 90s, in anticipation of the Tier 2
emissions standards, Low Sulphur diesel became mandatory.
Sulphur content was reduced to 500 PPM, and lubricity
additives were incorporated in the fuel.

In the middle of the last decade, in anticipation of Tier 3
emission standards, Ultra Low Sulphur diesel became mandatory.
Sulphur content on current fuel is 15 PPM. A new Tier 3 engine
is designed to run on ULS fuel, just like a new gas engine is
designed for ethanol.

Yanmar, Cummins, and Perkins (the 3 brands of diesels I used
to teach technicians about) all recommend that you add a
lubricity additive to your fuel if your engine was built
before Tier 3 and ULS diesel became the norm. For our size
engines that means about 2010 (1 year later in Canada). The
service bulletins from Yanmar and Cummins (which I
unfortunately lost when the laptop’s hard drive went up in
smoke) both specifically recommend the additive from Stanadyne.

Even though my Universal M35B is a Tier 3 version, I still add
Standyne lubricity additive (although I do occasional use a
product from Lucas). It can’t hurt.

I also put BioBor JR in the fuel as an algaecide and try to
keep my tank full during winter storage. As Josh said, the
nasties live in the water in the tank and eat the diesel
(don’t get me started on bio-diesel). An algaecide and
reducing the chances of condensation in the tank are good
policy for avoiding fuel filter problems.

I’ve used about 2 tanks of fuel this year, so I’m not
concerned with the duel degrading in storage like you get with
ethanol stored in a boat. Diesel can generally be stored for
about two years without significant degradation.

Rick Brass

Re: Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives?

2015-10-13 Thread Chuck S via CnC-List 
Not sure why it works, but I saw improvement. I add an ounce of SEAFOAM to each 
gallon of fuel and one ounce to each quart of oil. I add it to the oil when I 
change it each Fall, and I add it to my boat's fuel tank just before I add 
fuel. The can is 16oz and I only add 5 oz to the engine and 5 oz to the fuel 
tank when I pour in a 5 gallon jerry can. The balance of an open can goes into 
my car's gas tank. It's very thin and seems to help starting and smooth 
running. 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

- Original Message -

From: "robert via CnC-List"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "robert"  
Sent: Tuesday, October 13, 2015 9:47:52 PM 
Subject: Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives? 

Check this out: 

http://seafoamsales.com/sea-foam-motor-treatment/ 



Rob Abbott 
AZURA 
C 32 - 84 
Halifax, N.S. 

On 2015-10-13 10:23 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List wrote: 



I suspect most old car guys are familiar with Seafoam. Though I can't recall 
exactly what is in it. I've always used it as an additive for gasoline engines 
- boat fuel, mower fuel, oil mix for power tools and the outboard. I think of 
it as a better alternative to Stabil. 

Can't say as I've ever thought about it as Diesel additive, or added it to 
engine oil. Might be a good thing to check out. 

Rick Brass 
Washington, NC 

Sent from my iPad 

On Oct 13, 2015, at 20:43, Chuck S via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > 
wrote: 




Hi Rick, 
A friend who works on cars and has a 32 foot sailboat for 25 years that looks 
better than new, suggested I use SeaFoam in both fuel and engine oil. It's 
inexpensive and seems to make starting much easier, so I've been using that for 
the last 8 years. I use Bio-Flo Jr when I top off the tank for winter. Any 
thoughts on SeaFoam? 

Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

- Original Message -

From: "Rick Brass via CnC-List" < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Rick Brass" < rickbr...@earthlink.net > 
Sent: Monday, October 12, 2015 8:52:03 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives? 



All diesel is made to the same set of standards. The red stuff just has a dye 
in it to indicate that the highway fuel tax has not been paid. 



When your engine was built, diesel fuel had 5000 parts per million of Sulphur 
content. The Sulphur was a significant factor in lubricating the injection 
pump, injectors, etc. 



In the mid to late 90s, in anticipation of the Tier 2 emissions standards, Low 
Sulphur diesel became mandatory. Sulphur content was reduced to 500 PPM, and 
lubricity additives were incorporated in the fuel. 



In the middle of the last decade, in anticipation of Tier 3 emission standards, 
Ultra Low Sulphur diesel became mandatory. Sulphur content on current fuel is 
15 PPM. A new Tier 3 engine is designed to run on ULS fuel, just like a new gas 
engine is designed for ethanol. 



Yanmar, Cummins, and Perkins (the 3 brands of diesels I used to teach 
technicians about) all recommend that you add a lubricity additive to your fuel 
if your engine was built before Tier 3 and ULS diesel became the norm. For our 
size engines that means about 2010 (1 year later in Canada). The service 
bulletins from Yanmar and Cummins (which I unfortunately lost when the laptop’s 
hard drive went up in smoke) both specifically recommend the additive from 
Stanadyne. 



Even though my Universal M35B is a Tier 3 version, I still add Standyne 
lubricity additive (although I do occasional use a product from Lucas). It 
can’t hurt. 



I also put BioBor JR in the fuel as an algaecide and try to keep my tank full 
during winter storage. As Josh said, the nasties live in the water in the tank 
and eat the diesel (don’t get me started on bio-diesel). An algaecide and 
reducing the chances of condensation in the tank are good policy for avoiding 
fuel filter problems. 



I’ve used about 2 tanks of fuel this year, so I’m not concerned with the duel 
degrading in storage like you get with ethanol stored in a boat. Diesel can 
generally be stored for about two years without significant degradation. 



Rick Brass 

Washington, NC 







From: CnC-List [ mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com ] On Behalf Of Richard N. 
Bush via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, October 12, 2015 12:39 PM 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Richard N. Bush < bushma...@aol.com > 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives? 




With apologies for re-raising a previously discussed topic; my boat is a 1985 
37 with the original Yanmar 3HMF 27 hp; I went for my annual diesel fill up and 
the pumps were out of order; so I had to get diesel from a street gas station; 
although the cost was almost a dollar per gallon cheaper, I noted that it was 
the "green" color rather than the "red" color; so my question is do I need to 
put some type of sulpher additive or something along those lines into this 
fuel? I did motor with it for an

Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives?

2015-10-13 Thread robert via CnC-List 

 Chuck et al:

I have not heard of the productwhere do you buy it?..automotive 
store, marine store, hardware store?


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2015-10-13 11:04 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List wrote:
Not sure why it works, but I saw improvement.  I add an ounce of 
SEAFOAM to each gallon of fuel and one ounce to each quart of oil.  I 
add it to the oil when I change it each Fall, and I add it to my 
boat's fuel tank just before I add fuel.  The can is 16oz and I only 
add 5 oz to the engine and 5 oz to the fuel tank when I pour in a 5 
gallon jerry can.  The balance of an open can goes into my car's gas 
tank.  It's very thin and seems to help starting and smooth running.



Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md


*From: *"robert via CnC-List" 
*To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc: *"robert" 
*Sent: *Tuesday, October 13, 2015 9:47:52 PM
*Subject: *Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives?

Check this out:

http://seafoamsales.com/sea-foam-motor-treatment/



Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2015-10-13 10:23 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List wrote:

I suspect most old car guys are familiar with Seafoam. Though I
can't recall exactly what is in it. I've always used it as an
additive for gasoline engines - boat fuel, mower fuel, oil mix for
power tools and the outboard. I think of it as a better
alternative to Stabil.

Can't say as I've ever thought about it as Diesel additive, or
added it to engine oil. Might be a good thing to check out.

Rick Brass
Washington, NC

Sent from my iPad

On Oct 13, 2015, at 20:43, Chuck S via CnC-List
 wrote:

Hi Rick,
A friend who works on cars and has a 32 foot sailboat for 25
years that looks better than new, suggested I use *SeaFoam *in
both fuel and engine oil.  It's inexpensive and seems to make
starting much easier, so I've been using that for the last 8
years.  I use Bio-Flo Jr when I top off the tank for winter. 
Any thoughts on SeaFoam?


Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md


*From: *"Rick Brass via CnC-List" 
*To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
*Cc: *"Rick Brass" 
*Sent: *Monday, October 12, 2015 8:52:03 PM
*Subject: *Re: Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives?

All diesel is made to the same set of standards. The red stuff
just has a dye  in it to indicate that the highway fuel tax
has not been paid.

When your engine was built, diesel fuel had 5000 parts per
million of Sulphur content. The Sulphur was a significant
factor in lubricating the injection pump, injectors, etc.

In the mid to late 90s, in anticipation of the Tier 2
emissions standards, Low Sulphur diesel became mandatory.
Sulphur content was reduced to 500 PPM, and lubricity
additives were incorporated in the fuel.

In the middle of the last decade, in anticipation of Tier 3
emission standards, Ultra Low Sulphur diesel became mandatory.
Sulphur content on current fuel is 15 PPM. A new Tier 3 engine
is designed to run on ULS fuel, just like a new gas engine is
designed for ethanol.

Yanmar, Cummins, and Perkins (the 3 brands of diesels I used
to teach technicians about) all recommend that you add a
lubricity additive to your fuel if your engine was built
before Tier 3 and ULS diesel became the norm. For our size
engines that means about 2010 (1 year later in Canada). The
service bulletins from Yanmar and Cummins (which I
unfortunately lost when the laptop’s hard drive went up in
smoke) both specifically recommend the additive from Stanadyne.

Even though my Universal M35B is a Tier 3 version, I still add
Standyne lubricity additive (although I do occasional use a
product from Lucas). It can’t hurt.

I also put BioBor JR in the fuel as an algaecide and try to
keep my tank full during winter storage. As Josh said, the
nasties live in the water in the tank and eat the diesel
(don’t get me started on bio-diesel). An algaecide and
reducing the chances of condensation in the tank are good
policy for avoiding fuel filter problems.

I’ve used about 2 tanks of fuel this year, so I’m not
concerned with the duel degrading in storage like you get with
ethanol stored in a boat. Diesel can generally be stored for
about two years without significant degradation.

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

Re: Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives?

2015-10-13 Thread Paul Eugenio via CnC-List 

I have seen it at Walmart.  


-
Paul E.
1981 C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/


> On Oct 13, 2015, at 10:34 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Tue, 13 Oct 2015 23:34:08 -0300
> From: robert >
> To: 1 CnC List >
> Subject: Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives?
> Message-ID: <561dbf20.8030...@eastlink.ca 
> >
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"; Format="flowed"
> 
>  Chuck et al:
> 
> I have not heard of the productwhere do you buy it?..automotive 
> store, marine store, hardware store?
> 
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.

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Re: Stus-List Which type of bottom paint do I have?

2015-10-13 Thread Pete Shelquist via CnC-List 
Sounds like VC Tar.  I don't believe they still make it, but it was applied
as an undercoat to VC17...if I recall correctly.


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave via
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, October 13, 2015 8:06 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dave
Subject: Stus-List Which type of bottom paint do I have?

Hi all - had to remove some paint for repairs and realize that he bottom
will need at least a touch up.
Paint smells a Bit like burnt rubber when the grinder hits it, and it smears
rather than stripping off in dust or chips.  Clearly a soft film, black in
Color.  
No resistance to acetone at all.  Dissolves in the fumes I think. 
 Any idea what this stuff is?   Thanks.  

Dave.  

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List Diesel Fuel Additives?

2015-10-13 Thread Richard N. Bush via CnC-List 

 

 Many thanks for all of the valuable info on the fuel additives; I have saved 
all of the responses and I am going shopping...Thanks again. 


Richard

Richard N. Bush
1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584

2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Bill Coleman 
Sent: Mon, Oct 12, 2015 1:31 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Diesel Fuel Additives?



No, it’s all low sulfur. Green just tells the cops thatyou paid the road tax.
Surprising , Truck diesel here is 2.69, and at our club (Red BoatDiesel) is 
$2.03.
Put Bio-Bore additive in always. Or it will turn Black!
 
 
Bill Coleman
C 39, Erie

From: CnC-List[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Richard N. 
Bush viaCnC-List
Sent: Monday, October 12, 2015 12:39 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Richard N. Bush
Subject: Re: Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives?

 

With apologies for re-raising apreviously discussed topic; my boat is a 1985 37 
with the original Yanmar 3HMF27 hp; I went for my annual diesel fill up and the 
pumps were out of order; soI had to get diesel from a street gas station; 
although the cost was almost adollar per gallon cheaper, I noted that it was 
the "green" colorrather than the "red" color; so my question is do I need to 
put sometype of sulpher additive or something along those lines into this fuel? 
I didmotor with it for an extended time on Sunday with no adverse effects; 
inaddition to this question, what should I use for the upcoming winter 
layup?many thanks 

 


Richard

1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River Mi. 584;


Richard N. Bush  
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255


 

 

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unsubscribing -- go to the bottom ofpage at: 
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Re: Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives?

2015-10-13 Thread Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
The manufacturer recommends that you periodically test the filter funnel by
adding water to the cup and verifying that it doesn't pass through.  Once
you've got water in the funnel you can add your fuel.  The fuel will pass
leaving the water.  When you're done you'll find only water and a very thin
oily film.  I suppose you now you have to figure out what to do with the
water.  There is only a slight amount of oil left so let you conscience be
your guide.

Remember, don't use any type of soap to clean the funnel or in the water.
The soap releases the surface tension of water and allows it to pass
through the filter.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Oct 13, 2015 8:56 AM, "Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Paul,
>
> I use the Mr. Funnel funnel, as well. I wonder though, what do you do with
> the half cup of fuel that is left in the Funnel after it does its
> filtration? I don’t have a tractor.
>
> Marek
> 1994 C270 “Legato”
> Ottawa, ON
>
> *From:* Paul Eugenio via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Tuesday, October 13, 2015 8:52 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Paul Eugenio 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives?
>
> Hi Richard,
>
> As many folks have already noted, ultra low sulfur diesel (ULSD) has been
> the standard since 2010.   I use Biobor JF which is  a Diesel Biocide and
> Lubricity Additive.   I think most people don’t realize that Biobor is also
> a lube additive.
>
> On another note mentioned by others, I faithfully use a Mr Funnel fuel
> filter when adding fuel to the tank.   It will slow you down when you are
> fueling at a dock side pump, and most of the times the fuel is fine, but
> the times when you find water in the filter are a real eye opener.
>
>
> -
> Paul E.
> 1981 C 38 Landfall
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Carrabelle, FL
>
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com
>
>
>
>
> On Oct 12, 2015, at 8:27 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>
> Date: Mon, 12 Oct 2015 12:39:13 -0400
> From: "Richard N. Bush" 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives?
> Message-ID:
> <8d2d323a94a4bbf-211c-3d...@webmailstg-vd08.sysops.aol.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
>
> With apologies for re-raising a previously discussed topic; my boat is a
> 1985 37 with the original Yanmar 3HMF 27 hp; I went for my annual diesel
> fill up and the pumps were out of order; so I had to get diesel from a
> street gas station; although the cost was almost a dollar per gallon
> cheaper, I noted that it was the "green" color rather than the "red" color;
> so my question is do I need to put some type of sulpher additive or
> something along those lines into this fuel? I did motor with it for an
> extended time on Sunday with no adverse effects; in addition to this
> question, what should I use for the upcoming winter layup? many thanks
>
>
>
>
> Richard
> 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River Mi. 584;
>
>
> Richard N. Bush
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
> 502-584-7255
>
>
> --
> ___
>
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>
>
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives?

2015-10-13 Thread Paul Eugenio via CnC-List 
At my marina, I just simple dump it into the used oil tank.  Other times, I 
have either temporarily stored it in a G2-like bottle (marked as waste oil) or 
simply poured it back into the jerry can (unless it clearly had water 
contaminants).


-
Paul E.
1981 C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com 


> On Oct 13, 2015, at 8:56 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Tue, 13 Oct 2015 08:56:06 -0400
> From: "Marek Dziedzic"  >
> To: >
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives?
> Message-ID:  >
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Hi Paul,
> 
> I use the Mr. Funnel funnel, as well. I wonder though, what do you do with 
> the half cup of fuel that is left in the Funnel after it does its filtration? 
> I don?t have a tractor.
> 
> Marek
> 1994 C270 ?Legato?
> Ottawa, ON

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Re: Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives?

2015-10-13 Thread Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
Hi Paul,

I use the Mr. Funnel funnel, as well. I wonder though, what do you do with the 
half cup of fuel that is left in the Funnel after it does its filtration? I 
don’t have a tractor.

Marek
1994 C270 “Legato”
Ottawa, ON

From: Paul Eugenio via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, October 13, 2015 8:52 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Paul Eugenio 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives?

Hi Richard,

As many folks have already noted, ultra low sulfur diesel (ULSD) has been the 
standard since 2010.   I use Biobor JF which is  a Diesel Biocide and Lubricity 
Additive.   I think most people don’t realize that Biobor is also a lube 
additive.

On another note mentioned by others, I faithfully use a Mr Funnel fuel filter 
when adding fuel to the tank.   It will slow you down when you are fueling at a 
dock side pump, and most of the times the fuel is fine, but the times when you 
find water in the filter are a real eye opener.


-
Paul E.
1981 C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com



  On Oct 12, 2015, at 8:27 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

  Date: Mon, 12 Oct 2015 12:39:13 -0400
  From: "Richard N. Bush" 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives?
  Message-ID:
  <8d2d323a94a4bbf-211c-3d...@webmailstg-vd08.sysops.aol.com>
  Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"


  With apologies for re-raising a previously discussed topic; my boat is a 1985 
37 with the original Yanmar 3HMF 27 hp; I went for my annual diesel fill up and 
the pumps were out of order; so I had to get diesel from a street gas station; 
although the cost was almost a dollar per gallon cheaper, I noted that it was 
the "green" color rather than the "red" color; so my question is do I need to 
put some type of sulpher additive or something along those lines into this 
fuel? I did motor with it for an extended time on Sunday with no adverse 
effects; in addition to this question, what should I use for the upcoming 
winter layup? many thanks 




  Richard
  1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River Mi. 584;


  Richard N. Bush  
  2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
  Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
  502-584-7255







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Re: Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives?

2015-10-13 Thread Paul Eugenio via CnC-List 
Hi Richard,

As many folks have already noted, ultra low sulfur diesel (ULSD) has been the 
standard since 2010.   I use Biobor JF which is  a Diesel Biocide and Lubricity 
Additive.   I think most people don’t realize that Biobor is also a lube 
additive.

On another note mentioned by others, I faithfully use a Mr Funnel fuel filter 
when adding fuel to the tank.   It will slow you down when you are fueling at a 
dock side pump, and most of the times the fuel is fine, but the times when you 
find water in the filter are a real eye opener.


-
Paul E.
1981 C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com



> On Oct 12, 2015, at 8:27 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Mon, 12 Oct 2015 12:39:13 -0400
> From: "Richard N. Bush" >
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives?
> Message-ID:
>   <8d2d323a94a4bbf-211c-3d...@webmailstg-vd08.sysops.aol.com 
> >
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> 
> With apologies for re-raising a previously discussed topic; my boat is a 1985 
> 37 with the original Yanmar 3HMF 27 hp; I went for my annual diesel fill up 
> and the pumps were out of order; so I had to get diesel from a street gas 
> station; although the cost was almost a dollar per gallon cheaper, I noted 
> that it was the "green" color rather than the "red" color; so my question is 
> do I need to put some type of sulpher additive or something along those lines 
> into this fuel? I did motor with it for an extended time on Sunday with no 
> adverse effects; in addition to this question, what should I use for the 
> upcoming winter layup? many thanks 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Richard
> 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River Mi. 584;
> 
> 
> Richard N. Bush  
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
> 502-584-7255
> 

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Stus-List Which type of bottom paint do I have?

2015-10-13 Thread Dave via CnC-List 
Hi all - had to remove some paint for repairs and realize that he bottom will 
need at least a touch up.
Paint smells a Bit like burnt rubber when the grinder hits it, and it smears 
rather than stripping off in dust or chips.  Clearly a soft film, black in 
Color.  
No resistance to acetone at all.  Dissolves in the fumes I think. 
 Any idea what this stuff is?   Thanks.  

Dave.  

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List VC17

2015-10-13 Thread Dennis C. via CnC-List 
It's the bottom paint eating hyacinth.  Invasive species from New Zealand.

Dennis C.

On Tue, Oct 13, 2015 at 2:46 PM, Brent Driedger via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Thanks everyone. Next season I will try the solvent wash trick. I think I
> still have a can from my initial hull rebuild 7 years ago. I'll see if it
> has a shelf life.
> Otherwise I could just accept that my boat is so fast, paint just won't
> stay put!
>
> Brent
> 27-5
> Lake Winnipeg
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Oct 12, 2015, at 7:40 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> FWIW, Didn't have any problem getting bottom paint to stick to my
> Interprotect.   I scuffed the Interprotect w 80 grit to provide tooth as on
> the instructions.  No problems after 8 years.  No problem getting paint to
> stick to later interprotect paint when I changed the depth and speed sensor
> thruhulls and Interprotected the fairing job before bottom painting.  I did
> wipe the Interprotect w a solvent after scuffing w 80 grit.  I think they
> recommended 216.
>
>
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
>
> --
> *From: *"Rick Brass via CnC-List" 
> *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc: *"Rick Brass" 
> *Sent: *Monday, October 12, 2015 8:27:46 PM
> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List VC17
>
> Graham is correct. The Interprotect literature indicates you should apply
> the first coat of bottom paint before the Interprotect fully cures so that
> it bonds with the Interprotect and acts as a primer. You touch the
> partially cured material with a knuckle. When it is cured enough that you
> leave a knuckle print but it does not stick to your skin, then you apply
> the first coat. If I recall, it took about 45 minutes to cure sufficiently.
>
>
>
> Basically, very little will stick to cured Interprotect except
> Interprotect.
>
>
>
> Since I use Petit ablative paint, I put on a primer coat of hard Trinidad
> Pro. After it was cured/dry, I painted with the final bottom paint. No
> problems in the last 6 or 7 years.
>
>
>
> I can’t really say why the 6” or so along the waterline sluffs off, but
> that is what happened on Imzadi before I put on the Interprotect. I’ve been
> told is is because of the wave action causing erosion of the paint, but
> I’ve also been told that the UV is a contributing factor.
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
> Washington, NC
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
> ] *On Behalf Of *Graham Collins via
> CnC-List
> *Sent:* Monday, October 12, 2015 11:43 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Graham Collins 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List VC17
>
>
>
> First coat of bottom paint has to go onto Interprotect 2000 while the
> interprotect is still tacky, if I'm recalling correctly.  I've overcoated
> Interprotect with Micron CSX this way and had good results.
>
> Graham Collins
>
> Secret Plans
>
> C 35-III #11
>
> On 2015-10-12 10:57 AM, Chuck S via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Brent,
>
> That's weird.  I'm taking a quess.  Maybe there was some sanding dust on
> the hull after sanding?  Did you wipe the bottom with rags dipped in a
> solvent, before painting?  Is it peeled off or worn off.  Got any pictures?
>
>
>
>
>
> Chuck
> *Resolute*
> 1990 C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
>
>
> --
>
> *From: *"Brent Driedger via CnC-List" 
> 
> *To: *"C List"  
> *Cc: *"Brent Driedger" 
> 
> *Sent: *Monday, October 12, 2015 12:25:06 AM
> *Subject: *Stus-List VC17
>
>
>
> Hi everyone and to my fellow Canadians, happy Thanksgiving.
> I pulled Wild Rover out of the lake last weekend and found not to my
> surprise that once again I have lost the majority of the VC17 I painted
> onto the hull within 6 inches of the waterline.
> I originally brought the hull back to bare gel coat with a random orbital
> sander and sealed with 6 coats of Interprotect 2000. This was sanded flat
> and roughed up prior to the VC application. The Vc goes on as per the
> instructions but every year I loose that 6" or so. More where the water is
> turbulent. It's frustrating watching others pull boats with intact bottom
> paint, even those who clean their hulls every couple of weeks.
> Any idea what I'm doing wrong? This is all the more important as the zebra
> mussel infestation in Lake Winnipeg requires a good paint job. There were
> about a thousand of them on the little keel in front of my rudder which
> like the top 6" had lost its VC17 from the lower horizontal surface.
>
>
>
> Brent Driedger
> 27-5
> Lake Winnipeg.
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
>
>
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of

Re: Stus-List VC17

2015-10-13 Thread Brent Driedger via CnC-List 
Thanks everyone. Next season I will try the solvent wash trick. I think I still 
have a can from my initial hull rebuild 7 years ago. I'll see if it has a shelf 
life. 
Otherwise I could just accept that my boat is so fast, paint just won't stay 
put!

Brent
27-5
Lake Winnipeg

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 12, 2015, at 7:40 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> FWIW, Didn't have any problem getting bottom paint to stick to my 
> Interprotect.   I scuffed the Interprotect w 80 grit to provide tooth as on 
> the instructions.  No problems after 8 years.  No problem getting paint to 
> stick to later interprotect paint when I changed the depth and speed sensor 
> thruhulls and Interprotected the fairing job before bottom painting.  I did 
> wipe the Interprotect w a solvent after scuffing w 80 grit.  I think they 
> recommended 216.  
> 
> 
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
> 
> From: "Rick Brass via CnC-List" 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: "Rick Brass" 
> Sent: Monday, October 12, 2015 8:27:46 PM
> Subject: Re: Stus-List VC17
> 
> Graham is correct. The Interprotect literature indicates you should apply the 
> first coat of bottom paint before the Interprotect fully cures so that it 
> bonds with the Interprotect and acts as a primer. You touch the partially 
> cured material with a knuckle. When it is cured enough that you leave a 
> knuckle print but it does not stick to your skin, then you apply the first 
> coat. If I recall, it took about 45 minutes to cure sufficiently.
>  
> Basically, very little will stick to cured Interprotect except Interprotect.
>  
> Since I use Petit ablative paint, I put on a primer coat of hard Trinidad 
> Pro. After it was cured/dry, I painted with the final bottom paint. No 
> problems in the last 6 or 7 years.
>  
> I can’t really say why the 6” or so along the waterline sluffs off, but that 
> is what happened on Imzadi before I put on the Interprotect. I’ve been told 
> is is because of the wave action causing erosion of the paint, but I’ve also 
> been told that the UV is a contributing factor.
>  
> Rick Brass
> Washington, NC
>  
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Graham 
> Collins via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, October 12, 2015 11:43 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Graham Collins 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List VC17
>  
> First coat of bottom paint has to go onto Interprotect 2000 while the 
> interprotect is still tacky, if I'm recalling correctly.  I've overcoated 
> Interprotect with Micron CSX this way and had good results.
> 
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C 35-III #11
> On 2015-10-12 10:57 AM, Chuck S via CnC-List wrote:
> Brent,
> That's weird.  I'm taking a quess.  Maybe there was some sanding dust on the 
> hull after sanding?  Did you wipe the bottom with rags dipped in a solvent, 
> before painting?  Is it peeled off or worn off.  Got any pictures?
>  
>  
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
>  
> From: "Brent Driedger via CnC-List" 
> To: "C List" 
> Cc: "Brent Driedger" 
> Sent: Monday, October 12, 2015 12:25:06 AM
> Subject: Stus-List VC17
>  
> Hi everyone and to my fellow Canadians, happy Thanksgiving. 
> I pulled Wild Rover out of the lake last weekend and found not to my surprise 
> that once again I have lost the majority of the VC17 I painted onto the hull 
> within 6 inches of the waterline. 
> I originally brought the hull back to bare gel coat with a random orbital 
> sander and sealed with 6 coats of Interprotect 2000. This was sanded flat and 
> roughed up prior to the VC application. The Vc goes on as per the 
> instructions but every year I loose that 6" or so. More where the water is 
> turbulent. It's frustrating watching others pull boats with intact bottom 
> paint, even those who clean their hulls every couple of weeks. 
> Any idea what I'm doing wrong? This is all the more important as the zebra 
> mussel infestation in Lake Winnipeg requires a good paint job. There were 
> about a thousand of them on the little keel in front of my rudder which like 
> the top 6" had lost its VC17 from the lower horizontal surface.
>  
> Brent Driedger
> 27-5
> Lake Winnipeg.
>  
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
>  
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>  
>  
> 
> 
> 
> ___
>  
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>  
>  
> 
> ___
>

Stus-List Recycling old dodger

2015-10-13 Thread Tim Goodyear via CnC-List 
I replaced the dodger on my 35-3 earlier this year with a different shaped
version and now have the old bows sitting in my garden.  Does anyone know
if they would be useful to anyone rather than throwing them away?  I have
the old dodger too - the cloth is OK'ish, but *all* the stitching
disintegrated at the same time.

Thanks,

Tim
Soon to be an ex-C owner (I hope you'll still let me lurk)
Branford, CT
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Re: Stus-List Recycling old dodger

2015-10-13 Thread Dennis C. via CnC-List 
Tim,

Post the width of the bow as a start.  I don't need it but I recycled one
off a Pearson 365 for my aft Bimini.  Creatively mounted it on the stern
pulpit to get the right height.

Dennis C.
On Oct 13, 2015 3:47 PM, "Tim Goodyear via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> I replaced the dodger on my 35-3 earlier this year with a different shaped
> version and now have the old bows sitting in my garden.  Does anyone know
> if they would be useful to anyone rather than throwing them away?  I have
> the old dodger too - the cloth is OK'ish, but *all* the stitching
> disintegrated at the same time.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tim
> Soon to be an ex-C owner (I hope you'll still let me lurk)
> Branford, CT
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List VC17

2015-10-13 Thread jhnelson via CnC-List 


Any possibility you are getting galvanic corrosion? We had a similar issue at 
Nepean Sailing Club, where the tannic acid from years of logging created a 
battery when different metals were in close proximity. We  ended up losing a 
number of marina mooring chains. All were corroded just below the water. 
Analysis by NRC people figured out the number of anodes required to protect the 
moorings. I'm sure some poking around with a volt meter could confirm.  Not 
sure of the makeup of water in Lake Winnipeg...but just an out of the box idea 
as it sounds similar in location.
Food for thought.


Sent from my Samsung device

 Original message 
From: Brent Driedger via CnC-List  
Date: 13-10-2015  16:46  (GMT-04:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Brent Driedger  
Subject: Re: Stus-List VC17 

Thanks everyone. Next season I will try the solvent wash trick. I think I still 
have a can from my initial hull rebuild 7 years ago. I'll see if it has a shelf 
life. Otherwise I could just accept that my boat is so fast, paint just won't 
stay put!
Brent27-5Lake Winnipeg

Sent from my iPhone
On Oct 12, 2015, at 7:40 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List  wrote:

FWIW, Didn't have any problem getting bottom paint to stick to my Interprotect. 
  I scuffed the Interprotect w 80 grit to provide tooth as on the instructions. 
 No problems after 8 years.  No problem getting paint to stick to later 
interprotect paint when I changed the depth and speed sensor thruhulls and 
Interprotected the fairing job before bottom painting.  I did wipe the 
Interprotect w a solvent after scuffing w 80 grit.  I think they recommended 
216.      


Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

From: "Rick Brass via CnC-List" 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: "Rick Brass" 
Sent: Monday, October 12, 2015 8:27:46 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List VC17

Graham is correct. The Interprotect literature indicates you should apply 
the first coat of bottom paint before the Interprotect fully cures so that it 
bonds with the Interprotect and acts as a primer. You touch the partially cured 
material with a knuckle. When it is cured enough that you leave a knuckle print 
but it does not stick to your skin, then you apply the first coat. If I recall, 
it took about 45 minutes to cure sufficiently. Basically, very little will 
stick to cured Interprotect except Interprotect. Since I use Petit ablative 
paint, I put on a primer coat of hard Trinidad Pro. After it was cured/dry, I 
painted with the final bottom paint. No problems in the last 6 or 7 years. I 
can’t really say why the 6” or so along the waterline sluffs off, but that is 
what happened on Imzadi before I put on the Interprotect. I’ve been told is is 
because of the wave action causing erosion of the paint, but I’ve also been 
told that the UV is a contributing factor. Rick BrassWashington, NC   From: 
CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Graham Collins via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, October 12, 2015 11:43 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Graham Collins 
Subject: Re: Stus-List VC17 First coat of bottom paint has to go onto 
Interprotect 2000 while the interprotect is still tacky, if I'm recalling 
correctly.  I've overcoated Interprotect with Micron CSX this way and had good 
results.

Graham CollinsSecret PlansC 35-III #11On 2015-10-12 10:57 AM, Chuck S via 
CnC-List wrote:Brent,That's weird.  I'm taking a quess.  Maybe there was some 
sanding dust on the hull after sanding?  Did you wipe the bottom with rags 
dipped in a solvent, before painting?  Is it peeled off or worn off.  Got any 
pictures?  Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md From: "Brent Driedger via CnC-List" 

To: "C List" 
Cc: "Brent Driedger" 
Sent: Monday, October 12, 2015 12:25:06 AM
Subject: Stus-List VC17 Hi everyone and to my fellow Canadians, happy 
Thanksgiving. 
I pulled Wild Rover out of the lake last weekend and found not to my surprise 
that once again I have lost the majority of the VC17 I painted onto the hull 
within 6 inches of the waterline. 
I originally brought the hull back to bare gel coat with a random orbital 
sander and sealed with 6 coats of Interprotect 2000. This was sanded flat and 
roughed up prior to the VC application. The Vc goes on as per the instructions 
but every year I loose that 6" or so. More where the water is turbulent. It's 
frustrating watching others pull boats with intact bottom paint, even those who 
clean their hulls every couple of weeks. 
Any idea what I'm doing wrong? This is all the more important as the zebra 
mussel infestation in Lake Winnipeg requires a good paint job. There were about 
a thousand of them on the little keel in front of my rudder which like the top 
6" had lost its VC17 from the lower horizontal

Re: Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives?

2015-10-13 Thread Chuck S via CnC-List 
Hi Rick, 
A friend who works on cars and has a 32 foot sailboat for 25 years that looks 
better than new, suggested I use SeaFoam in both fuel and engine oil. It's 
inexpensive and seems to make starting much easier, so I've been using that for 
the last 8 years. I use Bio-Flo Jr when I top off the tank for winter. Any 
thoughts on SeaFoam? 

Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

- Original Message -

From: "Rick Brass via CnC-List"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Rick Brass"  
Sent: Monday, October 12, 2015 8:52:03 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives? 



All diesel is made to the same set of standards. The red stuff just has a dye 
in it to indicate that the highway fuel tax has not been paid. 



When your engine was built, diesel fuel had 5000 parts per million of Sulphur 
content. The Sulphur was a significant factor in lubricating the injection 
pump, injectors, etc. 



In the mid to late 90s, in anticipation of the Tier 2 emissions standards, Low 
Sulphur diesel became mandatory. Sulphur content was reduced to 500 PPM, and 
lubricity additives were incorporated in the fuel. 



In the middle of the last decade, in anticipation of Tier 3 emission standards, 
Ultra Low Sulphur diesel became mandatory. Sulphur content on current fuel is 
15 PPM. A new Tier 3 engine is designed to run on ULS fuel, just like a new gas 
engine is designed for ethanol. 



Yanmar, Cummins, and Perkins (the 3 brands of diesels I used to teach 
technicians about) all recommend that you add a lubricity additive to your fuel 
if your engine was built before Tier 3 and ULS diesel became the norm. For our 
size engines that means about 2010 (1 year later in Canada). The service 
bulletins from Yanmar and Cummins (which I unfortunately lost when the laptop’s 
hard drive went up in smoke) both specifically recommend the additive from 
Stanadyne. 



Even though my Universal M35B is a Tier 3 version, I still add Standyne 
lubricity additive (although I do occasional use a product from Lucas). It 
can’t hurt. 



I also put BioBor JR in the fuel as an algaecide and try to keep my tank full 
during winter storage. As Josh said, the nasties live in the water in the tank 
and eat the diesel (don’t get me started on bio-diesel). An algaecide and 
reducing the chances of condensation in the tank are good policy for avoiding 
fuel filter problems. 



I’ve used about 2 tanks of fuel this year, so I’m not concerned with the duel 
degrading in storage like you get with ethanol stored in a boat. Diesel can 
generally be stored for about two years without significant degradation. 



Rick Brass 

Washington, NC 







From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Richard N. 
Bush via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, October 12, 2015 12:39 PM 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Richard N. Bush  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives? 




With apologies for re-raising a previously discussed topic; my boat is a 1985 
37 with the original Yanmar 3HMF 27 hp; I went for my annual diesel fill up and 
the pumps were out of order; so I had to get diesel from a street gas station; 
although the cost was almost a dollar per gallon cheaper, I noted that it was 
the "green" color rather than the "red" color; so my question is do I need to 
put some type of sulpher additive or something along those lines into this 
fuel? I did motor with it for an extended time on Sunday with no adverse 
effects; in addition to this question, what should I use for the upcoming 
winter layup? many thanks 





Richard 


1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River Mi. 584; 


Richard N. Bush 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255 










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unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: 
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Stus-List Atomic 4 Spare Parts Available

2015-10-13 Thread bobmor99 . via CnC-List 
My A4 reached its end of life at the same time that I reached my end of
patience so it is out to make room for a replacement from Electroprop. The
various bits and pieces will soon be on Craigslist (Jacksonville). Not sure
how shipping and all that works (especially to Canada). I'm just looking
for some sort of "fair market value" (or less). Among the pieces is a brand
new, stainless exhaust riser.  If there's no interest, it will be mounted
as an objet d'art in the saloon.
Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL
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Re: Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives?

2015-10-13 Thread Rick Brass via CnC-List 
I suspect most old car guys are familiar with Seafoam. Though I can't recall 
exactly what is in it. I've always used it as an additive for gasoline engines 
- boat fuel, mower fuel, oil mix for power tools and the outboard. I think of 
it as a better alternative to Stabil.

Can't say as I've ever thought about it as Diesel additive, or added it to 
engine oil. Might be a good thing to check out.

Rick Brass
Washington, NC

Sent from my iPad

> On Oct 13, 2015, at 20:43, Chuck S via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Hi Rick,
> A friend who works on cars and has a 32 foot sailboat for 25 years that looks 
> better than new, suggested I use SeaFoam in both fuel and engine oil.  It's 
> inexpensive and seems to make starting much easier, so I've been using that 
> for the last 8 years.  I use Bio-Flo Jr when I top off the tank for winter.  
> Any thoughts on SeaFoam?
> 
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
> 
> From: "Rick Brass via CnC-List" 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: "Rick Brass" 
> Sent: Monday, October 12, 2015 8:52:03 PM
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives?
> 
> All diesel is made to the same set of standards. The red stuff just has a dye 
>  in it to indicate that the highway fuel tax has not been paid.
>  
> When your engine was built, diesel fuel had 5000 parts per million of Sulphur 
> content. The Sulphur was a significant factor in lubricating the injection 
> pump, injectors, etc.
>  
> In the mid to late 90s, in anticipation of the Tier 2 emissions standards, 
> Low Sulphur diesel became mandatory. Sulphur content was reduced to 500 PPM, 
> and lubricity additives were incorporated in the fuel.
>  
> In the middle of the last decade, in anticipation of Tier 3 emission 
> standards, Ultra Low Sulphur diesel became mandatory. Sulphur content on 
> current fuel is 15 PPM. A new Tier 3 engine is designed to run on ULS fuel, 
> just like a new gas engine is designed for ethanol.
>  
> Yanmar, Cummins, and Perkins (the 3 brands of diesels I used to teach 
> technicians about) all recommend that you add a lubricity additive to your 
> fuel if your engine was built before Tier 3 and ULS diesel became the norm. 
> For our size engines that means about 2010 (1 year later in Canada). The 
> service bulletins from Yanmar and Cummins (which I unfortunately lost when 
> the laptop’s hard drive went up in smoke) both specifically recommend the 
> additive from Stanadyne.
>  
> Even though my Universal M35B is a Tier 3 version, I still add Standyne 
> lubricity additive (although I do occasional use a product from Lucas). It 
> can’t hurt.
>  
> I also put BioBor JR in the fuel as an algaecide and try to keep my tank full 
> during winter storage. As Josh said, the nasties live in the water in the 
> tank and eat the diesel (don’t get me started on bio-diesel). An algaecide 
> and reducing the chances of condensation in the tank are good policy for 
> avoiding fuel filter problems.
>  
> I’ve used about 2 tanks of fuel this year, so I’m not concerned with the duel 
> degrading in storage like you get with ethanol stored in a boat. Diesel can 
> generally be stored for about two years without significant degradation.
>  
> Rick Brass
> Washington, NC
>  
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Richard N. 
> Bush via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, October 12, 2015 12:39 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Richard N. Bush 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives?
>  
> With apologies for re-raising a previously discussed topic; my boat is a 1985 
> 37 with the original Yanmar 3HMF 27 hp; I went for my annual diesel fill up 
> and the pumps were out of order; so I had to get diesel from a street gas 
> station; although the cost was almost a dollar per gallon cheaper, I noted 
> that it was the "green" color rather than the "red" color; so my question is 
> do I need to put some type of sulpher additive or something along those lines 
> into this fuel? I did motor with it for an extended time on Sunday with no 
> adverse effects; in addition to this question, what should I use for the 
> upcoming winter layup? many thanks
>  
> Richard
> 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River Mi. 584;
> 
> 
> Richard N. Bush  
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
> 502-584-7255
>  
>  
> Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, 
> including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: 
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
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Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives?

2015-10-13 Thread robert via CnC-List 

Check this out:

http://seafoamsales.com/sea-foam-motor-treatment/



Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2015-10-13 10:23 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List wrote:
I suspect most old car guys are familiar with Seafoam. Though I can't 
recall exactly what is in it. I've always used it as an additive for 
gasoline engines - boat fuel, mower fuel, oil mix for power tools and 
the outboard. I think of it as a better alternative to Stabil.


Can't say as I've ever thought about it as Diesel additive, or added 
it to engine oil. Might be a good thing to check out.


Rick Brass
Washington, NC

Sent from my iPad

On Oct 13, 2015, at 20:43, Chuck S via CnC-List > wrote:



Hi Rick,
A friend who works on cars and has a 32 foot sailboat for 25 years 
that looks better than new, suggested I use *SeaFoam *in both fuel 
and engine oil.  It's inexpensive and seems to make starting much 
easier, so I've been using that for the last 8 years.  I use Bio-Flo 
Jr when I top off the tank for winter.  Any thoughts on SeaFoam?


Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md


*From: *"Rick Brass via CnC-List" >

*To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
*Cc: *"Rick Brass" >

*Sent: *Monday, October 12, 2015 8:52:03 PM
*Subject: *Re: Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives?

All diesel is made to the same set of standards. The red stuff just 
has a dye in it to indicate that the highway fuel tax has not been paid.


When your engine was built, diesel fuel had 5000 parts per million of 
Sulphur content. The Sulphur was a significant factor in lubricating 
the injection pump, injectors, etc.


In the mid to late 90s, in anticipation of the Tier 2 emissions 
standards, Low Sulphur diesel became mandatory. Sulphur content was 
reduced to 500 PPM, and lubricity additives were incorporated in the 
fuel.


In the middle of the last decade, in anticipation of Tier 3 emission 
standards, Ultra Low Sulphur diesel became mandatory. Sulphur content 
on current fuel is 15 PPM. A new Tier 3 engine is designed to run on 
ULS fuel, just like a new gas engine is designed for ethanol.


Yanmar, Cummins, and Perkins (the 3 brands of diesels I used to teach 
technicians about) all recommend that you add a lubricity additive to 
your fuel if your engine was built before Tier 3 and ULS diesel 
became the norm. For our size engines that means about 2010 (1 year 
later in Canada). The service bulletins from Yanmar and Cummins 
(which I unfortunately lost when the laptop’s hard drive went up in 
smoke) both specifically recommend the additive from Stanadyne.


Even though my Universal M35B is a Tier 3 version, I still add 
Standyne lubricity additive (although I do occasional use a product 
from Lucas). It can’t hurt.


I also put BioBor JR in the fuel as an algaecide and try to keep my 
tank full during winter storage. As Josh said, the nasties live in 
the water in the tank and eat the diesel (don’t get me started on 
bio-diesel). An algaecide and reducing the chances of condensation in 
the tank are good policy for avoiding fuel filter problems.


I’ve used about 2 tanks of fuel this year, so I’m not concerned with 
the duel degrading in storage like you get with ethanol stored in a 
boat. Diesel can generally be stored for about two years without 
significant degradation.


Rick Brass

Washington, NC

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*Richard N. Bush via CnC-List

*Sent:* Monday, October 12, 2015 12:39 PM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
*Cc:* Richard N. Bush >
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives?

With apologies for re-raising a previously discussed topic; my boat 
is a 1985 37 with the original Yanmar 3HMF 27 hp; I went for my 
annual diesel fill up and the pumps were out of order; so I had to 
get diesel from a street gas station; although the cost was almost a 
dollar per gallon cheaper, I noted that it was the "green" color 
rather than the "red" color; so my question is do I need to put some 
type of sulpher additive or something along those lines into this 
fuel? I did motor with it for an extended time on Sunday with no 
adverse effects; in addition to this question, what should I use for 
the upcoming winter layup? many thanks


Richard

1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River Mi. 584;



Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
502-584-7255

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