Stus-List BC RDV

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

Here's the web site http://members.shaw.ca/cncrdv/

It is usually the first full weekend in August at Telegraph Harbor Marina on 
Thetis Island.

Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera 
1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200


Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera 
1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200

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Re: Stus-List bearing removal tool

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

I am trying to remove it undamaged because it seems to be an odd size.

Josh, thanks for the input.
I will keep working at it.

> >

> Message: 5
> Date: Fri, 26 Feb 2016 17:36:37 -0400
> From: 
> To: 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Bearing removal tool by MacGyver
> Message-ID: <26E99133EAD04EEC82957F43F69B1DDE@T60>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> Brian, looking at the photos, it appears you have the shaft removed? If
so, all you have to do now is carefully score the old bearing 90% of the
way through with a hacksaw and then bend the bearing inward with a punch.
Once loosened, it should come out.  I did this job a couple of years ago
with a homemade tool that removed the old bearing without removing the
shaft, worked well.
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Re: Stus-List replacing cockpit drain thru hulls 30 MK1

[Peter Fell via CnC-List]

I think finding bronze NPS (straight) threaded ball valves is a difficult task. 
For example, every single valve sold by Defender is NPT (taper).


From: Rick Brass via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, February 26, 2016 3:02 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Rick Brass 
Subject: Re: Stus-List replacing cockpit drain thru hulls 30 MK1

Joe;

 

The bad news is I don’t believe that anyone makes the flush thru hulls used on 
our classic C&Cs anymore. All the ones I have seen are a smaller OD than the 
recesses in our hulls.

 

The good news is that you rarely need to replace a bronze thru hull. You just 
need one of the thru hull step wrenches shown on page 118 of the Buck Algonquin 
catalog and a strong helper to hold the step wrench on the outside of the boat 
while you remove the old valve from the threads of the existing thru hull from 
inside the hull. (you can also buy one at Lowes or Home Depot, but it is called 
a plumber’s step wrench or something similar)

 

Both my boats came with brass gate valves on most of the thru hulls, instead of 
proper seacocks. When I got my 25, back in 1994, I launched into replacing the 
gate valves, starting with the cockpit scuppers. I screwed up both the thru 
hulls because of my ignorance, and had a heck of a time finding a flush thru 
hull to replace the ones I had to cut out of the hull. 

 

I finally found a pair of thru hulls at a chandlery in NJ, across the river 
from Philly – a place sort of like an OLD hardware store with lots of out of 
date hardware in stock. (Don’t you love poking around in those sort of places?) 
And the guy at the chandlery explained how you are supposed to get the old 
valve off the thru hull without damaging the thru hull. Once I bought the 
wrench, replacing all the valves was pretty straight forward.

 

BTW, the thru hulls should be bronze, not brass. And the seacocks should be 
either bronze or Marlon. You don’t want to use brass if you are in salt or 
brackish water. Thru hulls come with straight threads. So do proper seacocks. 
Most of my thru hulls were clamped to the wood backing plates with a nut, so I 
did not have to use seacocks with a flange on them. But I have learned that 
ball valves intended for plumbing come with tapered threads, so I had to make 
sure I ordered ball valves with straight threads that matched the threads on 
the thru hull.

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  C&C 38 mk 2

la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1

Washington, NC

 

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, February 26, 2016 12:59 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Subject: Re: Stus-List replacing cockpit drain thru hulls 30 MK1

 

Try here:

 

http://www.buckalgonquin.com/pdf/catalog.pdf

 

The company is near us.

 

Joel

 

On Fri, Feb 26, 2016 at 12:52 PM, Joe at Zialater via CnC-List 
 wrote:

  I am trying to find the mfg. for the cockpit drain brass thru hulls on my
  1975 30 MK1.

  They are flush to the bottom of the hull and have a flange diameter of 3.5
  inches and a 1.25 inch hole.  I have tried Groco and Perko but neither has
  the correct size although they both have brass flush mount versions.

  Does anyone have a suggestion on where I might find the original
  replacement.  I would hate to have to modify the hole or use epoxy to make a
  non-original thru hull fit.

  Thanks for any ideas on this.

  Joe

  Zia - 1975 C&C 30 MK1
  Annapolis



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-- 

Joel 
301 541 8551




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Re: Stus-List is there a keel bolt under the mast?

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Yes.  The mast is out for the winter on my 35 MkII, and there is one keel bolt 
there on the aluminum plate where the mast sits.

Eric
Cat’s Paw

> This is a good question! 
> Anybody out there know the answer? 
> If I can I will be there, it?s always work schedule dependent.
> 
> Thanks for the info Lee! 
> 
> Bill

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Re: Stus-List AIS receiver

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Joel,

 

I thought you had the full AIS Class B setup?

 

Jake

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, February 25, 2016 15:30
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Subject: Stus-List AIS receiver

 

Just bought one of these to connect to a laptop:

 

http://wegmatt.com/

 

I rather have it at the helm, but for $65. this is better than nothing.  I'll 
use my emergency antenna.


 

-- 

Joel 
301 541 8551

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Re: Stus-List is there a keel bolt under the mast?

[Bill Hoyne via CnC-List]

Here is an old photo showing a keel bolt about 6-8” from the mast. Is your’s 
like this? Is there another bolt under that mast? 
I am hoping to try to avoid pulling the mast as that opens a whole can of worms 
of things I should/could do while the mast is down. 

-bill

> 
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Stus-List Dodger for 34

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

We are considering a dodger for our 34.  Any recommendations for local sources? 
 Any thoughts on pros or cons of a traditional versus California style?  Any 
hints at things we should be looking for (or to avoid)?



As always, your thoughts are much appreciated



John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT





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Re: Stus-List is there a keel bolt under the mast?

[David Blair via CnC-List]

I’d suspect the RDV will be in early August at Telegraph Harbour. Thetis 
Island, as usual. Plan to be there if possible.  Ciao

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Hoyne 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, February 26, 2016 4:15 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Hoyne
Subject: Re: Stus-List is there a keel bolt under the mast?

 

This is a good question! 

Anybody out there know the answer? 

If I can I will be there, it’s always work schedule dependent.

 

Thanks for the info Lee! 

 

Bill

Mithrandir

’74 C&C35 MkII

in Victoria,BC

On Feb 26, 2016, at 3:17 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List  
wrote:

 

BTW, when and where is the C&C Rendezvous in BC this year?

 

Maybe we will make it back to the C&C RDV in BC this year. . . 

 

See you there?

 

Lee in Seattle

s/v Simplicity

a 1974 C&C 35-II

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Re: Stus-List is there a keel bolt under the mast?

[Bill Hoyne via CnC-List]

This is a good question! 
Anybody out there know the answer? 
If I can I will be there, it’s always work schedule dependent.

Thanks for the info Lee! 

Bill
Mithrandir
’74 C&C35 MkII
in Victoria,BC
> On Feb 26, 2016, at 3:17 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> BTW, when and where is the C&C Rendezvous in BC this year?
>  
> Maybe we will make it back to the C&C RDV in BC this year. . . 
>  
> See you there?
>  
> Lee in Seattle
> s/v Simplicity
> a 1974 C&C 35-II
> ___
> 
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> CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
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> of page at:
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> 
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Re: Stus-List replacing cockpit drain thru hulls 30 MK1

[Peter Fell via CnC-List]

We just had a discussion here on the listserv early February on exactly the 
same question for exactly the same boat. So I’d suggest searching your inbox 
(or archives) for that thread.

But I’ll reiterate my experience when I did this a couple years ago on my 27 
... I didn’t find any flush mount thru-hull that had the same size flange and 
my existing ones were not in a condition that I wanted to reuse them. So, yes, 
I epoxy-filled the ‘cups’ left behind by the old flush-mounts and installed 
Groco mushroom-style thru-hulls and matching ball valves. I used marine plywood 
for the backing plates, shaped to fit the curvature of the hull and 
epoxy-coated. Bedded in Sikaflex 291 (think that was the one).

At the time I did not go the route of using the matching Groco flange adapter 
bases with either studs (requires a fiberglass backing plate) or through-bolt 
(can use wood backing plate) but the Groco thru-hulls are tapered threads so 
that you get a decent amount of thread engagement with the valve. I don’t think 
thru-hulls from most other manufacturers are tapered so you might be running 
with only 2 or 3 threads of engagement. Same potentially for the original C&C 
thru-hulls.

I may actually go back and retro-fit with the flange adapters for the cockpit 
drains and engine intake since they are in the area of the boat most prone to 
potential damage, that the much more robust flange adapter would protect 
against.

Good resource is the pbase articles from compass marine.

Another thing I didn’t do  install a stainless Zerk Grease Gun Fitting 
(1/8-27 thread) on each valve (there’s a drain hole on the Grocos). This let’s 
you grease the ball valves without pulling the boat. Groco recommends using Dow 
Corning MolyCote 111 (silicone based) – that’s what they use in the factory.

Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
Cygnet
C&C 27 MkIII

From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, February 26, 2016 9:59 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Subject: Re: Stus-List replacing cockpit drain thru hulls 30 MK1

Try here: 

http://www.buckalgonquin.com/pdf/catalog.pdf


The company is near us.

Joel

On Fri, Feb 26, 2016 at 12:52 PM, Joe at Zialater via CnC-List 
 wrote:

  I am trying to find the mfg. for the cockpit drain brass thru hulls on my
  1975 30 MK1.

  They are flush to the bottom of the hull and have a flange diameter of 3.5
  inches and a 1.25 inch hole.  I have tried Groco and Perko but neither has
  the correct size although they both have brass flush mount versions.

  Does anyone have a suggestion on where I might find the original
  replacement.  I would hate to have to modify the hole or use epoxy to make a
  non-original thru hull fit.

  Thanks for any ideas on this.

  Joe

  Zia - 1975 C&C 30 MK1
  Annapolis



  ___

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-- 

Joel 
301 541 8551



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Re: Stus-List replacing cockpit drain thru hulls 30 MK1

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Joe;

 

The bad news is I don’t believe that anyone makes the flush thru hulls used on 
our classic C&Cs anymore. All the ones I have seen are a smaller OD than the 
recesses in our hulls.

 

The good news is that you rarely need to replace a bronze thru hull. You just 
need one of the thru hull step wrenches shown on page 118 of the Buck Algonquin 
catalog and a strong helper to hold the step wrench on the outside of the boat 
while you remove the old valve from the threads of the existing thru hull from 
inside the hull. (you can also buy one at Lowes or Home Depot, but it is called 
a plumber’s step wrench or something similar)

 

Both my boats came with brass gate valves on most of the thru hulls, instead of 
proper seacocks. When I got my 25, back in 1994, I launched into replacing the 
gate valves, starting with the cockpit scuppers. I screwed up both the thru 
hulls because of my ignorance, and had a heck of a time finding a flush thru 
hull to replace the ones I had to cut out of the hull. 

 

I finally found a pair of thru hulls at a chandlery in NJ, across the river 
from Philly – a place sort of like an OLD hardware store with lots of out of 
date hardware in stock. (Don’t you love poking around in those sort of places?) 
And the guy at the chandlery explained how you are supposed to get the old 
valve off the thru hull without damaging the thru hull. Once I bought the 
wrench, replacing all the valves was pretty straight forward.

 

BTW, the thru hulls should be bronze, not brass. And the seacocks should be 
either bronze or Marlon. You don’t want to use brass if you are in salt or 
brackish water. Thru hulls come with straight threads. So do proper seacocks. 
Most of my thru hulls were clamped to the wood backing plates with a nut, so I 
did not have to use seacocks with a flange on them. But I have learned that 
ball valves intended for plumbing come with tapered threads, so I had to make 
sure I ordered ball valves with straight threads that matched the threads on 
the thru hull.

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  C&C 38 mk 2

la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1

Washington, NC

 

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, February 26, 2016 12:59 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Subject: Re: Stus-List replacing cockpit drain thru hulls 30 MK1

 

Try here:

 

http://www.buckalgonquin.com/pdf/catalog.pdf

 

The company is near us.

 

Joel

 

On Fri, Feb 26, 2016 at 12:52 PM, Joe at Zialater via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I am trying to find the mfg. for the cockpit drain brass thru hulls on my
1975 30 MK1.

They are flush to the bottom of the hull and have a flange diameter of 3.5
inches and a 1.25 inch hole.  I have tried Groco and Perko but neither has
the correct size although they both have brass flush mount versions.

Does anyone have a suggestion on where I might find the original
replacement.  I would hate to have to modify the hole or use epoxy to make a
non-original thru hull fit.

Thanks for any ideas on this.

Joe

Zia - 1975 C&C 30 MK1
Annapolis



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-- 

Joel 
301 541 8551

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Re: Stus-List is there a keel bolt under the mast?

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

BTW, when and where is the C&C Rendezvous in BC this year?

 

Maybe we will make it back to the C&C RDV in BC this year. . . 

 

See you there?

 

Lee in Seattle

s/v Simplicity

a 1974 C&C 35-II

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Re: Stus-List Bearing removal tool by MacGyver

[mike amirault via CnC-List]

Brian, looking at the photos, it appears you have the shaft removed? If so, all 
you have to do now is carefully score the old bearing 90% of the way through 
with a hacksaw and then bend the bearing inward with a punch. Once loosened, it 
should come out.  I did this job a couple of years ago with a homemade tool 
that removed the old bearing without removing the shaft, worked well.___

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Re: Stus-List Bearing removal tool by MacGyver

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Did you try to find pipe?  I've seen pictures of pipe cut lengthwise to fit
around the shaft, held on with hose clamps, and then pressed out with
strong backs and all-thread.

Josh
On Feb 26, 2016 2:09 PM, "Brian Fry via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> It appears that it is not going to work.
> I was using Conduit PVC, and it is just not strong enough to take the
> forces involved.
> I'll probably try again, this time using socket werenches, if I can find
> on big enough.
>
>
>
> --
> Brian Fry
> S/V La Neige
> 1993 C&C 37/40XL
> HdG Maryland
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Stus-List Bearing removal tool by MacGyver

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

It appears that it is not going to work.
I was using Conduit PVC, and it is just not strong enough to take the
forces involved.
I'll probably try again, this time using socket werenches, if I can find on
big enough.



-- 
Brian Fry
S/V La Neige
1993 C&C 37/40XL
HdG Maryland
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Re: Stus-List replacing cockpit drain thru hulls 30 MK1

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Try here:

http://www.buckalgonquin.com/pdf/catalog.pdf

The company is near us.

Joel

On Fri, Feb 26, 2016 at 12:52 PM, Joe at Zialater via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I am trying to find the mfg. for the cockpit drain brass thru hulls on my
> 1975 30 MK1.
>
> They are flush to the bottom of the hull and have a flange diameter of 3.5
> inches and a 1.25 inch hole.  I have tried Groco and Perko but neither has
> the correct size although they both have brass flush mount versions.
>
> Does anyone have a suggestion on where I might find the original
> replacement.  I would hate to have to modify the hole or use epoxy to make
> a
> non-original thru hull fit.
>
> Thanks for any ideas on this.
>
> Joe
>
> Zia - 1975 C&C 30 MK1
> Annapolis
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Stus-List replacing cockpit drain thru hulls 30 MK1

[Joe at Zialater via CnC-List]

I am trying to find the mfg. for the cockpit drain brass thru hulls on my
1975 30 MK1.

They are flush to the bottom of the hull and have a flange diameter of 3.5
inches and a 1.25 inch hole.  I have tried Groco and Perko but neither has
the correct size although they both have brass flush mount versions.

Does anyone have a suggestion on where I might find the original
replacement.  I would hate to have to modify the hole or use epoxy to make a
non-original thru hull fit.

Thanks for any ideas on this.

Joe

Zia - 1975 C&C 30 MK1
Annapolis



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Re: Stus-List Cushions smell

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Another thing that is helpful, is putting it out in the sunlight and breeze. UV 
light kills lots of spores and other problems


Bill Coleman 

 Original message 
From: Pete Shelquist via CnC-List  
Date: 2/25/2016  7:30 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com, cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Pete Shelquist  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cushions smell 

We used a product called " capture" that worked well. I believe we found it at 
a Home Depot 

Sent from Outlook on my iPhone




On Thu, Feb 25, 2016 at 4:12 PM -0800, "Andrew Burton via CnC-List" 
 wrote:










Baking soda and pet and toddler odor remover. Just went through the same thing 
on a delivery and found a couple of products on the market. The pet odor stuff 
we found at Walmart and it really did the trick, actually got rid of rather 
than masked the smell.
AndyC&C 40Peregrine

Andrew Burton61 W NarragansettNewport, RI USA    02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/+401 965-5260
On Feb 25, 2016, at 18:44, TOM VINCENT via CnC-List  
wrote:




I have an odor of diesel in all of my cushions. It is not a strong smell, when 
you first go below it is more revelent - after you are there for awhile it is 
not as bad. If anyone has had a similar problem and solved the issue, I would 
love to know how. Obviously, a total replacement would work. The Admiral 
refuses to sleep on the boat because of the odor. I have taken the cushions off 
for the winter and steam cleaned one and sprayed it with Fabreeze, not much 
different.
 
Tom Vincent
Frolic II C&C 36 cb
Chesapeake City, MD 
  
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