Re: Stus-List Keel bolt tightening for wimps?

[johnr via CnC-List]

Always loosen  before tightening.  Going too strong too early is a recipe for 
disaster.



-Original Message-
From: Rick Rohwer via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Rick Rohwer 
Sent: Tue, Mar 22, 2016 9:14 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Keel bolt tightening for wimps?



Ryan
I have had some painful experience with a torque multiplier!  
Whether tightening or loosening, you should be wary of how much force you are 
applying to the fastener.   Fasteners or sockets can fragment.
I would recommend either some pretreatment with penetrating oil, and or 
heating/cooling.   Ease into it once you use the multiplier!
I broke off some very expensive bolts using a multiplier.  


Rick
Paikea 37+


On Mar 22, 2016, at 1:08 PM, dwight veinot via CnC-List  
wrote:


Or you will need at least a 4 foot extension on the ratchet just connect that 
up apply your half your body weight to the pull and u should be good to go but 
you may only have enough space to get 1 click on the ratchet each pull like was 
my case on alianna

On Tuesday, March 22, 2016, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
wrote:

Call tool rental shops and see if you can rent a torque multiplier.  Also 
remember that you must first loosen the nut then torque it.
Dennis C.

On Mar 22, 2016 8:29 AM, "Ryan Doyle via CnC-List"  
wrote:

Tried to tighten my keel bolts to spec today.  Can't get any of them to move... 
at all.  Can't tighten, can't loosen.  I wouldn't call myself a super strong 
guy, but I'm 6', 175lbs. and I've certainly loosened a few bolts in my 
lifetime.   These won't budge.  Should I just leave them alone?  Or should I 
buy a longer torque wrench or some sort of extension to get some more leverage? 
 Currently using a wrench about 20" long.  It's also hard to brace yourself for 
good leverage on the boat.  The specs say 350 ft lbs for my boat.  That sounds 
like maybe more force than I can exert?


Any thoughts are appreciated.


Ryan
1976 C 30
Nobody's Bargain
New York





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Re: Stus-List Keel bolt tightening for wimps?

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

Ryan
I have had some painful experience with a torque multiplier!  
Whether tightening or loosening, you should be wary of how much force you are 
applying to the fastener.   Fasteners or sockets can fragment.
I would recommend either some pretreatment with penetrating oil, and or 
heating/cooling.   Ease into it once you use the multiplier!
I broke off some very expensive bolts using a multiplier.  

Rick
Paikea 37+
> On Mar 22, 2016, at 1:08 PM, dwight veinot via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Or you will need at least a 4 foot extension on the ratchet just connect that 
> up apply your half your body weight to the pull and u should be good to go 
> but you may only have enough space to get 1 click on the ratchet each pull 
> like was my case on alianna
> 
> On Tuesday, March 22, 2016, Dennis C. via CnC-List  > wrote:
> Call tool rental shops and see if you can rent a torque multiplier.  Also 
> remember that you must first loosen the nut then torque it.
> 
> Dennis C.
> On Mar 22, 2016 8:29 AM, "Ryan Doyle via CnC-List"  > wrote:
> Tried to tighten my keel bolts to spec today.  Can't get any of them to 
> move... at all.  Can't tighten, can't loosen.  I wouldn't call myself a super 
> strong guy, but I'm 6', 175lbs. and I've certainly loosened a few bolts in my 
> lifetime.   These won't budge.  Should I just leave them alone?  Or should I 
> buy a longer torque wrench or some sort of extension to get some more 
> leverage?  Currently using a wrench about 20" long.  It's also hard to brace 
> yourself for good leverage on the boat.  The specs say 350 ft lbs for my 
> boat.  That sounds like maybe more force than I can exert?
> 
> Any thoughts are appreciated.
> 
> Ryan
> 1976 C 30
> Nobody's Bargain
> New York
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Sent from Gmail Mobile
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> 
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> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

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Re: Stus-List C Smile

[ahycrace--- via CnC-List]

Al 
 See the C photo album story of "Liberty" repair same thing as Jason 
but more complicated.
http://gkolc3.wix.com/liberty

  Gary


 Alan Bergen via CnC-List  wrote: 
> Jason: 
> 
> In 2004 I noticed the smile on my boat, when I hauled out. I could also move 
> the keel, so I knew I had a problem that wouldn't go away. I had the yard 
> drop the keel, and when they flushed out the keel bolt holes, a smelly 
> substance came out (like someone died in there). The forward keel bolt hole 
> had gotten enlarged due to the keel moving around. They ground the stub and 
> the top of the keel, epoxied the keel onto the stub, and covered the smile 
> with fiberglass tape and epoxy. They also had to fill a void around the 
> forward keel bolt hole with about a gallon of epoxy. I also had the yard make 
> large, square keel bolt washers, shaped so that the nuts would sit flush when 
> tightened. Cost was about $3500. The smile never came back. 
> 
> Alan Bergen 
> C 35 Mk III Thirsty (hull #136) 
> Rose City YC 
> Portland, OR 
> 


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Re: Stus-List Keel bolt tightening for wimps?

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Or you will need at least a 4 foot extension on the ratchet just connect
that up apply your half your body weight to the pull and u should be good
to go but you may only have enough space to get 1 click on the ratchet each
pull like was my case on alianna

On Tuesday, March 22, 2016, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Call tool rental shops and see if you can rent a torque multiplier.  Also
> remember that you must first loosen the nut then torque it.
>
> Dennis C.
> On Mar 22, 2016 8:29 AM, "Ryan Doyle via CnC-List"  > wrote:
>
>> Tried to tighten my keel bolts to spec today.  Can't get any of them to
>> move... at all.  Can't tighten, can't loosen.  I wouldn't call myself a
>> super strong guy, but I'm 6', 175lbs. and I've certainly loosened a few
>> bolts in my lifetime.   These won't budge.  Should I just leave them
>> alone?  Or should I buy a longer torque wrench or some sort of extension to
>> get some more leverage?  Currently using a wrench about 20" long.  It's
>> also hard to brace yourself for good leverage on the boat.  The specs say
>> 350 ft lbs for my boat.  That sounds like maybe more force than I can exert?
>>
>> Any thoughts are appreciated.
>>
>> Ryan
>> 1976 C 30
>> Nobody's Bargain
>> New York
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>

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Re: Stus-List Keel Smile

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

If those big keel bolts are torqued right I would expect very little
"cushioning" to happen so check the torque on the nuts when she's on the
hard and adjust to specs also found on the CNC site then do option a or b
and go sailing

On Tuesday, March 22, 2016, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Remember that most of these joints are bedded with 4200, 5200, or
> similar.  These materials cushion any flex between the keel and the hull.
> Anything applied over the bedding will likely be less squishy and more
> brittle (fairing compound, epoxy, barrier coat, bottom paint).
>
> I agree, it doesn't look bad.  As long as water isn't leaking in or out
> then I wouldn't worry.  Take some pictures and monitor it each time the
> boat is hauled out.
>
> When it is decidedly time to take action my first step would be to torque
> the keel bolts.
>
> If that doesn't yield improvement then attempt a repair according to the
> link below.
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yV1JEN3YxQk1RbHc/view?usp=docslist_api
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> On Mar 19, 2016 2:08 PM, "Ainslie via CnC-List"  > wrote:
>
>> My keel joint seems to be opening up; there wasn't much sign of it at
>> haul out, but now it's noticeable. Also, you can see something oozing from
>> the crack. Whatever it is has an oily texture so I'm guessing it’s coming
>> from the bilge. In the first photo, the vertical stain is the same oily
>> ooze coming from a welt higher up on the keel stub. I think I have to
>> address it because if something can get out, then surely water can get in.
>> Three options: a)rout out the crack and fill with epoxy; b) fill it with
>> 5200 (on the premise that the keel ‘wants’ to flex laterally, so fill it
>> with something flexible); or c)see how it progresses this season and see if
>> I have an autumn project? I don’t think (c) is the best option. I’ve done
>> this kind of work before – I’d appreciate hearing what the Listers say…
>>
>>
>>
>> http://jainslieblog.blogspot.ca/
>>
>>
>>
>> Could this have been caused by the way it's sitting in the cradle? FYI,
>> this keel is a modified bulb, done by MarsKeel about 9 years ago. Thanks
>> for any input.
>>
>>
>>
>> Jason Ainslie, Spirit
>>
>> 1984 C 35-3
>>
>> Port of Bayfield
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>>

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Re: Stus-List C Smile

[Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List]

All puns intended?
*The smile never came back.
*On you or the boat or both?

--
Cheers,
Jeff Nelson
Muir Caileag
C 30
Armdale Y.C.
Halifax

On 3/22/2016 2:54 PM, Alan Bergen via CnC-List wrote:

Jason:

In 2004 I noticed the smile on my boat, when I hauled out.  I could 
also move the keel, so I knew I had a problem that wouldn't go away.  
I had the yard drop the keel, and when they flushed out the keel bolt 
holes, a smelly substance came out (like someone died in there).  The 
forward keel bolt hole had gotten enlarged due to the keel moving 
around.  They ground the stub and the top of the keel, epoxied the 
keel onto the stub, and covered the smile with fiberglass tape and 
epoxy.  They also had to fill a void around the forward keel bolt hole 
with about a gallon of epoxy.  I also had the yard make large, square 
keel bolt washers, shaped so that the nuts would sit flush when 
tightened.  Cost was about $3500. *The smile never came back.*


Alan Bergen
C 35 Mk III Thirsty (hull #136)
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



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Re: Stus-List C Smile

[Alan Bergen via CnC-List]

Jason: 

In 2004 I noticed the smile on my boat, when I hauled out. I could also move 
the keel, so I knew I had a problem that wouldn't go away. I had the yard drop 
the keel, and when they flushed out the keel bolt holes, a smelly substance 
came out (like someone died in there). The forward keel bolt hole had gotten 
enlarged due to the keel moving around. They ground the stub and the top of the 
keel, epoxied the keel onto the stub, and covered the smile with fiberglass 
tape and epoxy. They also had to fill a void around the forward keel bolt hole 
with about a gallon of epoxy. I also had the yard make large, square keel bolt 
washers, shaped so that the nuts would sit flush when tightened. Cost was about 
$3500. The smile never came back. 

Alan Bergen 
C 35 Mk III Thirsty (hull #136) 
Rose City YC 
Portland, OR 

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Stus-List Polar Diagrams - 1990 C 34+ DK

[Tom Vaughan via CnC-List]

I am looking for Polar Diagrams for my 1990 C 34+ DK.   Tom V

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Re: Stus-List Keel bolt tightening for wimps?

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Call tool rental shops and see if you can rent a torque multiplier.  Also
remember that you must first loosen the nut then torque it.

Dennis C.
On Mar 22, 2016 8:29 AM, "Ryan Doyle via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Tried to tighten my keel bolts to spec today.  Can't get any of them to
> move... at all.  Can't tighten, can't loosen.  I wouldn't call myself a
> super strong guy, but I'm 6', 175lbs. and I've certainly loosened a few
> bolts in my lifetime.   These won't budge.  Should I just leave them
> alone?  Or should I buy a longer torque wrench or some sort of extension to
> get some more leverage?  Currently using a wrench about 20" long.  It's
> also hard to brace yourself for good leverage on the boat.  The specs say
> 350 ft lbs for my boat.  That sounds like maybe more force than I can exert?
>
> Any thoughts are appreciated.
>
> Ryan
> 1976 C 30
> Nobody's Bargain
> New York
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Keel bolt tightening for wimps?

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Thank you guys.  Appreciate the help.  Sounds like I need to hit Amazon for
a torque multiplier and a beefier wrench if I'm going to do this.  I was
wondering how the heck I was going to get to 350 ft lbs - that's more
torque than the chevy 350 I had in my old truck.  I started to imagine
V8-powered tools...  Like the V8 blender from Top Gear - (
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vDlMLqdvHzI)

But I digress..

The boat is on the hard and my keel is supported on the ground.  I am
definitely of the "if it ain't broke, don't fit it" mindset.  Quite
honestly, the keel bolts look and feel SUPER solid, but I have a very, very
slight smile and have been told by several people including the surveyor
that the keel bolts are a maintenance item and should be tightened to
spec.  I bought the boat in Oct, so I have no idea when they were last
done.
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Re: Stus-List Keel Smile

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Remember that most of these joints are bedded with 4200, 5200, or similar.
These materials cushion any flex between the keel and the hull.  Anything
applied over the bedding will likely be less squishy and more brittle
(fairing compound, epoxy, barrier coat, bottom paint).

I agree, it doesn't look bad.  As long as water isn't leaking in or out
then I wouldn't worry.  Take some pictures and monitor it each time the
boat is hauled out.

When it is decidedly time to take action my first step would be to torque
the keel bolts.

If that doesn't yield improvement then attempt a repair according to the
link below.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yV1JEN3YxQk1RbHc/view?usp=docslist_api

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Mar 19, 2016 2:08 PM, "Ainslie via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> My keel joint seems to be opening up; there wasn't much sign of it at haul
> out, but now it's noticeable. Also, you can see something oozing from the
> crack. Whatever it is has an oily texture so I'm guessing it’s coming from
> the bilge. In the first photo, the vertical stain is the same oily ooze
> coming from a welt higher up on the keel stub. I think I have to address it
> because if something can get out, then surely water can get in. Three
> options: a)rout out the crack and fill with epoxy; b) fill it with 5200 (on
> the premise that the keel ‘wants’ to flex laterally, so fill it with
> something flexible); or c)see how it progresses this season and see if I
> have an autumn project? I don’t think (c) is the best option. I’ve done
> this kind of work before – I’d appreciate hearing what the Listers say…
>
>
>
> http://jainslieblog.blogspot.ca/
>
>
>
> Could this have been caused by the way it's sitting in the cradle? FYI,
> this keel is a modified bulb, done by MarsKeel about 9 years ago. Thanks
> for any input.
>
>
>
> Jason Ainslie, Spirit
>
> 1984 C 35-3
>
> Port of Bayfield
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Keel bolt tightening for wimps?

[Sailnomad via CnC-List]

True. I just found a 250 ft-lbs torque wrench at Amazon for $55, which is a
good price
Ahmet
25 C
Boston, MA

On Tue, Mar 22, 2016 at 10:27 AM, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> The torque wrench I use for this is 3/4 inch drive and the handle is
> about  3 1/2 feet long. I bought it used from a retiring heavy equipment
> mechanic. I have a small collection of extensions to get it just above the
> floorboards. I would worry about safety using a 3/8 or 1/2 drive that might
> fail under that much load. This calls for a tool intended for very high
> torque. If you need to add an extension to the handle for more leverage,
> you have the wrong tool. The internal workings were not built to withstand
> what an extended handle will exert. This operation can split a regular duty
> socket wide open, too.
>
> Bill Bina
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Keel bolt tightening for wimps?

[Sailnomad via CnC-List]

Why do you want to tighten your keel bolts ? Do you have a "smile" If it
ain\t broke, dont fix it.
I had to replace my washers on my 25, and ended up using a 4 ft extension
to take them off. Then I tightened them to what approximately felt right,
which was close to the most torque I could give it, again with the  ft
extension pipe.
If you don't have a torque wrench, 50lbs over a 4 ft extension will give
you 200 ft-lbs. Use some kind of a fish scale, without whacking yourself :)
Ahmet
25 C Boston, MA.

On Tue, Mar 22, 2016 at 10:01 AM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> My 20 inch adjustable torque wrench tops out at about 120 pounds, so you
> have a ways to go. You need a bigger wrench – suggest rental. There is a
> device called a torque multiplier, but I couldn’t find one locally, so
> added an extension to a 2 foot breaker bar and hauled on it like crazy.
> Checked it with a borrowed wrench and I got over 300 pounds.
>
>
>
> Gary Nylander
>
> 1980 30-1 #593
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Ryan
> Doyle via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 22, 2016 9:27 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Ryan Doyle 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Keel bolt tightening for wimps?
>
>
>
> Tried to tighten my keel bolts to spec today.  Can't get any of them to
> move... at all.  Can't tighten, can't loosen.  I wouldn't call myself a
> super strong guy, but I'm 6', 175lbs. and I've certainly loosened a few
> bolts in my lifetime.   These won't budge.  Should I just leave them
> alone?  Or should I buy a longer torque wrench or some sort of extension to
> get some more leverage?  Currently using a wrench about 20" long.  It's
> also hard to brace yourself for good leverage on the boat.  The specs say
> 350 ft lbs for my boat.  That sounds like maybe more force than I can exert?
>
>
>
> Any thoughts are appreciated.
>
>
>
> Ryan
>
> 1976 C 30
>
> Nobody's Bargain
>
> New York
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Keel bolt tightening for wimps?

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

The torque wrench I use for this is 3/4 inch drive and the handle is 
about  3 1/2 feet long. I bought it used from a retiring heavy equipment 
mechanic. I have a small collection of extensions to get it just above 
the floorboards. I would worry about safety using a 3/8 or 1/2 drive 
that might fail under that much load. This calls for a tool intended for 
very high torque. If you need to add an extension to the handle for more 
leverage, you have the wrong tool. The internal workings were not built 
to withstand what an extended handle will exert. This operation can 
split a regular duty socket wide open, too.


Bill Bina


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Re: Stus-List Keel bolt tightening for wimps?

[schiller via CnC-List]

With 20" torque wrench you will need to exert 210-230 lb of force (at 
the 20 inch mark).  More likely 230-260 lb force at about 18" on the 
torque wrench.  A torque multiplier will help as will a longer torque 
wrench.  We used to have to torque the fuse bolts on Laser Guided Bombs 
to 650 ft-lb.  We used a 6:1 toque multiplier and about a 4 foot torque 
wrench.  It was still tough, especially on the unlucky one that had to 
hold the torque multiplier.


Also remember that the 350 ft-lb is based on clean, dry threads. If you 
lubricate the threads, lower that number by 10%.


Neil Schiller
1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7
(C 35, Mark I)
"Corsair"
about 50 days to splash

On 3/22/2016 9:27 AM, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List wrote:
Tried to tighten my keel bolts to spec today. Can't get any of them to 
move... at all.  Can't tighten, can't loosen.  I wouldn't call myself 
a super strong guy, but I'm 6', 175lbs. and I've certainly loosened a 
few bolts in my lifetime.   These won't budge.  Should I just leave 
them alone?  Or should I buy a longer torque wrench or some sort of 
extension to get some more leverage?  Currently using a wrench about 
20" long. It's also hard to brace yourself for good leverage on the 
boat. The specs say 350 ft lbs for my boat.  That sounds like maybe 
more force than I can exert?


Any thoughts are appreciated.

Ryan
1976 C 30
Nobody's Bargain
New York




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Re: Stus-List Keel bolt tightening for wimps?

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

My 20 inch adjustable torque wrench tops out at about 120 pounds, so you have a 
ways to go. You need a bigger wrench – suggest rental. There is a device called 
a torque multiplier, but I couldn’t find one locally, so added an extension to 
a 2 foot breaker bar and hauled on it like crazy. Checked it with a borrowed 
wrench and I got over 300 pounds.

 

Gary Nylander

1980 30-1 #593

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ryan Doyle 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, March 22, 2016 9:27 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ryan Doyle 
Subject: Stus-List Keel bolt tightening for wimps?

 

Tried to tighten my keel bolts to spec today.  Can't get any of them to move... 
at all.  Can't tighten, can't loosen.  I wouldn't call myself a super strong 
guy, but I'm 6', 175lbs. and I've certainly loosened a few bolts in my 
lifetime.   These won't budge.  Should I just leave them alone?  Or should I 
buy a longer torque wrench or some sort of extension to get some more leverage? 
 Currently using a wrench about 20" long.  It's also hard to brace yourself for 
good leverage on the boat.  The specs say 350 ft lbs for my boat.  That sounds 
like maybe more force than I can exert?

 

Any thoughts are appreciated.

 

Ryan

1976 C 30

Nobody's Bargain

New York

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Fire blankets, beer & wool

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

It shouldn't be hard to find a pressure regulator for the CO2 tank.


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Russ & 
Melody via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, March 21, 2016 23:21
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Russ & Melody
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fire blankets, beer & wool


Hi Bill,

Sounds like the same set-up on your CO2 bottle that our local guys call "the 
welding head". Be careful with using it unregulated on the ship's horn as I 
suspect it's air supply was spec'd at the 100 to 150 PSI range. As you probably 
know a CO2 bottle can be 400 PSI in normal summer temperatures.

Maybe try the ship's horn with a propane bottle. It's a closer pressure, in the 
150 PSI range, and that will really get the safety bears spitting when you tell 
them what you're up to. :)

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 05:33 AM 21/03/2016, you wrote:

Content-type: multipart/alternative;
 boundary="=_NextPart_000_18C9_01D1834C.5C370D80"
Content-language: en-us

Not sure what you mean by ?Welding Head?, but it has a high volume regulator, 
the typical regulator that would handle welding gasses or pushing beer did not 
have the volume to handle a ships horn.  No dip tube,  but I suspect that If I 
turned it upside down it may come out liquid, I have never experimented with 
that. It certainly comes out with some force.
And boy, you are right about Wool rugs, I threw one on a bonfire years ago, and 
neither blaze nor lacquer thinner would make that thing burn.

Bill Coleman
C 39 Erie, PA

From: CnC-List [ mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Russ & 
Melody via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, March 20, 2016 7:06 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Russ & Melody
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fire blankets, beer & wool

Good point Bill.

Does your CO2 bottle have a "welding head" on it?
I suspect you were being tongue-in-cheek but it gets us thinking...
Does the CO2 fire extinguisher have a dip tube for liquid expectorant? Would a 
horn on a beer system CO2 (welding head) bottle valve work in a pinch?, say to 
a nod to multi-purpose.

I too brew beer and have a couple of small CO2 bottles and some corny kegs to 
purpose for cruising. Mmm.

As for fire blankets, it's good that the Admiral is a natural fibre snob. 
Cotton & wool are excellent choices for fire blankets and duvets. They 
smoulder, not flash up like synthetics, so toss the blankie on it and follow 
with the nearest water jug, beer, wine, whatever and you have a good story with 
a plus, if you're not putting out fires they're warmer if it's damp out (like 7 
months on the Wet Coast) when used for the principal purpose.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


At 04:34 PM 19/03/2016, you wrote:

Viola - Joe just gave me a reason to leave my CO2 bottle on the boat - 3 
reasons.  1st, (what I got it for ) to blow a big ship horn, 2nd, to push my 
favorite craft beer , ( I may have to get a large cooler ), and 3rd, put out 
fires!



Bill Coleman


 Original message 
From: Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
>
Date: 3/19/2016 4:26 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joe Della Barba >
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fire blankets

CO2 and halon are very nice ways to put out a fire without destroying the 
interior.

CO2 extinguishers tend to be fairly big and halon is expensive now.





Joe Della Barba

j...@dellabarba.com



Coquina
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Re: Stus-List Keel bolt tightening for wimps?

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

A couple of thoughts:

There are devices called torque multipliers.  These devices can often be
arranged to brace themselves in the bilge against the walls.  A 5:1
multiplier would mean that you would only have to produce 70 ft-lbs of
force.  Should be easier.

Are you on the hard?  If not, don't touch the bolts.

What is your goal?  Consider that you may be fixing what isn't broke.

Is there a bolt under the mast?  If you can't get to it you may want to
hold off on the entire project until you can.

As I understand it, torque should only be applied while on the hard.  This
also ensures that if something goes wrong then your keel won't fall
off/boat won't sink/etc...

Be prepared with new washers/strong backs and all of the appropriate
sockets for all the bolts.

Torque as you would anything else progressively, evenly, and in a pattern.

Good luck,
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Mar 22, 2016 9:29 AM, "Ryan Doyle via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Tried to tighten my keel bolts to spec today.  Can't get any of them to
> move... at all.  Can't tighten, can't loosen.  I wouldn't call myself a
> super strong guy, but I'm 6', 175lbs. and I've certainly loosened a few
> bolts in my lifetime.   These won't budge.  Should I just leave them
> alone?  Or should I buy a longer torque wrench or some sort of extension to
> get some more leverage?  Currently using a wrench about 20" long.  It's
> also hard to brace yourself for good leverage on the boat.  The specs say
> 350 ft lbs for my boat.  That sounds like maybe more force than I can exert?
>
> Any thoughts are appreciated.
>
> Ryan
> 1976 C 30
> Nobody's Bargain
> New York
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Stus-List Keel bolt tightening for wimps?

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Tried to tighten my keel bolts to spec today.  Can't get any of them to
move... at all.  Can't tighten, can't loosen.  I wouldn't call myself a
super strong guy, but I'm 6', 175lbs. and I've certainly loosened a few
bolts in my lifetime.   These won't budge.  Should I just leave them
alone?  Or should I buy a longer torque wrench or some sort of extension to
get some more leverage?  Currently using a wrench about 20" long.  It's
also hard to brace yourself for good leverage on the boat.  The specs say
350 ft lbs for my boat.  That sounds like maybe more force than I can exert?

Any thoughts are appreciated.

Ryan
1976 C 30
Nobody's Bargain
New York
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Re: Stus-List Keel Smile

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Doesn't look that bad from what I can tell from your photos. I would
say option (a) would be fine and option (b) also after you clean it
out and get the surfaces dry...I used an angle grinder on mine, and
then applied some 4200 in the groove and then on top of that filled
the remaining groove with epoxy thickened with silica...also made a
garboard drain as low as possible in the bilge
Dwight Veinot
C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net



On Sat, Mar 19, 2016 at 3:07 PM, Ainslie via CnC-List
 wrote:
> My keel joint seems to be opening up; there wasn't much sign of it at haul
> out, but now it's noticeable. Also, you can see something oozing from the
> crack. Whatever it is has an oily texture so I'm guessing it’s coming from
> the bilge. In the first photo, the vertical stain is the same oily ooze
> coming from a welt higher up on the keel stub. I think I have to address it
> because if something can get out, then surely water can get in. Three
> options: a)rout out the crack and fill with epoxy; b) fill it with 5200 (on
> the premise that the keel ‘wants’ to flex laterally, so fill it with
> something flexible); or c)see how it progresses this season and see if I
> have an autumn project? I don’t think (c) is the best option. I’ve done this
> kind of work before – I’d appreciate hearing what the Listers say…
>
>
>
> http://jainslieblog.blogspot.ca/
>
>
>
> Could this have been caused by the way it's sitting in the cradle? FYI, this
> keel is a modified bulb, done by MarsKeel about 9 years ago. Thanks for any
> input.
>
>
>
> Jason Ainslie, Spirit
>
> 1984 C 35-3
>
> Port of Bayfield
>
>
>
>
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>
> Email address:
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