Re: Stus-List C&C Mk2 solar panel mounting

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Please don't abuse the nice lines of the 30-2 with (2) 5' solar panels ;)

On Wed, May 4, 2016, 7:37 PM Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Lorne — I have the perfect place on my Landfall 38 for them…   :^)
>
> Those are seriously large panels for a 30-foot boat.
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>
> On May 4, 2016, at 9:19 PM, Lorne Serpa via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I kept my two 135 watt panels off my RV to use on a boat.   They are large
> at 62"x28".  Now that I have a new to me 1988 MK2.  I don't know where to
> mount the large panels.   I've seen them on other brands of boats mounted
> on the side of the boats on the stanchion.  Wouldn't they get dragged when
> it heels over?  I was thinking of on the rear cockpit rails so they stick
> out the back length wise but somehow fold down.  However the back rails are
> rounded or curved.
> Where does all the C&C 30Mk 2 owners mount panels?
>
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> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List C&C Mk2 solar panel mounting

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Lorne — I have the perfect place on my Landfall 38 for them…   :^)

Those are seriously large panels for a 30-foot boat.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On May 4, 2016, at 9:19 PM, Lorne Serpa via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I kept my two 135 watt panels off my RV to use on a boat.   They are large at 
> 62"x28".  Now that I have a new to me 1988 MK2.  I don't know where to mount 
> the large panels.   I've seen them on other brands of boats mounted on the 
> side of the boats on the stanchion.  Wouldn't they get dragged when it heels 
> over?  I was thinking of on the rear cockpit rails so they stick out the back 
> length wise but somehow fold down.  However the back rails are rounded or 
> curved. 
> Where does all the C&C 30Mk 2 owners mount panels?
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Stus-List C&C Mk2 solar panel mounting

[Lorne Serpa via CnC-List]

I kept my two 135 watt panels off my RV to use on a boat.   They are large
at 62"x28".  Now that I have a new to me 1988 MK2.  I don't know where to
mount the large panels.   I've seen them on other brands of boats mounted
on the side of the boats on the stanchion.  Wouldn't they get dragged when
it heels over?  I was thinking of on the rear cockpit rails so they stick
out the back length wise but somehow fold down.  However the back rails are
rounded or curved.
Where does all the C&C 30Mk 2 owners mount panels?
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Re: Stus-List Dry ice in ice box? 1988 C&C MK II 30"

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Dry ice attracts Mosquitos!  Bad!  Most bad!

Dennis C.

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 4, 2016, at 5:16 PM, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> The ice box is built pretty stout; fiberglass and gelcoat.  I can’t imagine 
> dry ice causing any problems.  Wrapping the dry ice in a towel or a couple 
> paper bags would be extra insurance.  That would also slow down the melting 
> process.
>  
> Jake
>  
> Jake Brodersen
> C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”
> Hampton VA
>  
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Lorne 
> Serpa via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, May 4, 2016 14:27
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Lorne Serpa 
> Subject: Stus-List Dry ice in ice box? 1988 C&C MK II 30"
>  
> Will the ice box handle dry ice? I know that for everyday cooler that you 
> take to the beach they're not designed for the extra low temperature of dry 
> ice.
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Marine grills

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

Magma Newport is not huge and does a good job of staying lit and cooking.
You could immediately tell when they sent production to China though.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 4 May 2016 at 06:48, mike amirault via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Maybe the Kuuma product has improved some but the early ones were junk. A
> friend of mine had one on his mirage 25 and the welds fell apart after one
> year.  IMHO, Dickinson or Magma are a better choice.
>
> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 124, Issue 30

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

FWIW, the mast boot on my 38 is made of sheet rubber from a tractor tire.
Made a paper pattern, then cut the rubber to shape to match the needed taper
of the boot. Overlapped and glued with tire patch glue. Held in place by
large stainless band clamps around the mast and the mast partners. And
covered by a Sunbrella wrap with a Velcro closure.

When I went looking for an inner tube to make a mast boot, the local tire
store gave me 3 tractor inner tubes that had been punctured. I made a
lifetime supply of spare boots for my boat (about 3).

And I have a lifetime supply of inner tube rubber that is available to
anyone who wants some.

Just contact me off list and tell me how much you need, and I will mail it
to you.


Rick Brass
Washington, NC



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tom
Buscaglia via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, May 04, 2016 11:04 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Tom Buscaglia 
Subject: Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 124, Issue 30

> Date: Wed, 4 May 2016 06:48:54 +
> From: Josh Muckley 
> To: "C&C List" 
> Subject: Stus-List Mast boot
> Message-ID:
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Ok folks,
> 
> I need a new mast boot.  I've seen the poured rubber block that is more or
> less permanent.  Wally has a write up about how he did it on Stella Blue
> and I saw it first hand on Jake's boat.  I like it but I think it is too
> big of a commitment right now.  Until then, I'm thinking of using the
> self-vulcanizing rubber tape that is 6" wide.  Having used similar
products
> like "Rescue Tape" for other projects, I expect that I'll need a length
> that is at least 3 times the circumference of my mast collar (35" * 3 =
> 105").
> 
> Does anybody have any thoughts on the best way to do this job, or which
> product is best?
> 
> Thanks,
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD


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Re: Stus-List Dry ice in ice box? 1988 C&C MK II 30"

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

The ice box is built pretty stout; fiberglass and gelcoat.  I can’t imagine dry 
ice causing any problems.  Wrapping the dry ice in a towel or a couple paper 
bags would be extra insurance.  That would also slow down the melting process.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Lorne Serpa 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, May 4, 2016 14:27
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Lorne Serpa 
Subject: Stus-List Dry ice in ice box? 1988 C&C MK II 30"

 

Will the ice box handle dry ice? I know that for everyday cooler that you take 
to the beach they're not designed for the extra low temperature of dry ice.

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Stus-List Dry Ice

[Barry Lenoble via CnC-List]

Hey,

I have used dry ice for years. If it's hot enough to require dry ice then
the hatches, ports, etc. are going to be open and plenty of fresh air is
going to be circulating through the boat. 

Good luck,
Barry

Barry Lenoble
leno...@optonline.net
Deep Blue C, C&C 110
Mt. Sinai, NY




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Re: Stus-List Dry ice in ice box? 1988 C&C MK II 30"

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

For Pete's sake don't freeze the beer!!!   Lol


Virus-free.
www.avast.com

<#DDB4FAA8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>

On Wed, May 4, 2016 at 3:54 PM, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Ditto, especially for long offshore.  Careful, it will freeze your beer.
> The box can handle the low temperatures without cracking.  If concerned,
> figure out a way to keep the ice from direct contact with the box.
>
>
>
> With regard to carbon dioxide build up;  the volume of CO2 would have to
> fill the icebox and then spill over into the cabin area.  With the amount
> of air moving through boat on any typical day, it’s highly likely to flush
> out a good % of the CO2 .
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *David
> via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, May 04, 2016 1:57 PM
> *To:* CNC CNC
> *Cc:* David
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Dry ice in ice box? 1988 C&C MK II 30"
>
>
>
> We have used it offshore to augment 12v refrig to keep battery consumption
> down.   Never had a problem.
>
> David F. Risch
> 1981 40-2
> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
>
> --
>
> Date: Wed, 4 May 2016 14:37:57 -0400
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Dry ice in ice box? 1988 C&C MK II 30"
> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> CC: primeinter...@gmail.com
>
> Very bad idea inside a boat. As it sublimates it will replace the oxygen
> in the lowest parts of the boat ... i.e. the living area.
>
> Ed
>
> QCYC Toronto
>
> On May 4, 2016 2:29 PM, "Lorne Serpa via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
>
> Will the ice box handle dry ice? I know that for everyday cooler that you
> take to the beach they're not designed for the extra low temperature of dry
> ice.
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___ This list is supported by
> the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help
> us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
>
> 
>
> Virus-free. www.avast.com
> 
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Dry ice in ice box? 1988 C&C MK II 30"

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

Ditto, especially for long offshore.  Careful, it will freeze your beer.
The box can handle the low temperatures without cracking.  If concerned,
figure out a way to keep the ice from direct contact with the box.

 

With regard to carbon dioxide build up;  the volume of CO2 would have to
fill the icebox and then spill over into the cabin area.  With the amount of
air moving through boat on any typical day, it's highly likely to flush out
a good % of the CO2 .

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David via
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, May 04, 2016 1:57 PM
To: CNC CNC
Cc: David
Subject: Re: Stus-List Dry ice in ice box? 1988 C&C MK II 30"

 

We have used it offshore to augment 12v refrig to keep battery consumption
down.   Never had a problem.   

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)



  _  

Date: Wed, 4 May 2016 14:37:57 -0400
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Dry ice in ice box? 1988 C&C MK II 30"
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: primeinter...@gmail.com

Very bad idea inside a boat. As it sublimates it will replace the oxygen in
the lowest parts of the boat ... i.e. the living area.

Ed 

QCYC Toronto

On May 4, 2016 2:29 PM, "Lorne Serpa via CnC-List" 
wrote:

Will the ice box handle dry ice? I know that for everyday cooler that you
take to the beach they're not designed for the extra low temperature of dry
ice.


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___ This list is supported by
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us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

 


 
 

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Re: Stus-List Inaccessible area in forward section of dining table in LF 38

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

Brian:  Pics coming your way now…Bob


> On May 4, 2016, at 3:12 PM, Brian Davis via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I would love it if somebody could email me pictures of how the table looks. I 
> have some of the pieces, but seems like I'm missing some.. just bought my 38 
> LF. I know I'll end up customizing something, but I like woodworking.  I'll 
> eventually share pics just need some concept thoughts.
> 
> Regards, 
> Brian
> ...in rainy south FL
> brianwdavis...@gmail.com 
> On May 4, 2016 2:47 PM, "Robert Boyer via CnC-List"  > wrote:
> On my LF 38 the fixed (central) portion of the dining table is accessible 
> underneath via two opening lids.  Storage in the aft section is big and 
> handles two gallon-size liquor bottles.  In the forward section, the 
> compartment handles one gallon-size liquor bottle and then there is a tray 
> about 1.5 to 2 inches deep and about 6 inches long.  The tray is not 
> removable.  Has anyone ever accessed the area under this tray in any way?
> 
> Bob
> 
> Bob Boyer
> S/V Rainy Days (1983 C&C Landfall 38 - hull #230)
> Blog: dainyr...@blogspot.com 
> Email: dainyr...@icloud.com 
> Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)
> 
> On May 4, 2016, at 2:37 PM, ed vanderkruk via CnC-List  > wrote:
> 
>> Very bad idea inside a boat. As it sublimates it will replace the oxygen in 
>> the lowest parts of the boat ... i.e. the living area.
>> 
>> Ed
>> 
>> QCYC Toronto
>> 
>> On May 4, 2016 2:29 PM, "Lorne Serpa via CnC-List" > > wrote:
>> Will the ice box handle dry ice? I know that for everyday cooler that you 
>> take to the beach they're not designed for the extra low temperature of dry 
>> ice.
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

Robert Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38, Hull #230

2501 Boston Street
Mailbox #505
Baltimore, MD 21224


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Re: Stus-List Inaccessible area in forward section of dining table in LF 38

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

I would love it if somebody could email me pictures of how the table looks.
I have some of the pieces, but seems like I'm missing some.. just bought my
38 LF. I know I'll end up customizing something, but I like woodworking.
I'll eventually share pics just need some concept thoughts.

Regards,
Brian
...in rainy south FL
brianwdavis...@gmail.com
On May 4, 2016 2:47 PM, "Robert Boyer via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> On my LF 38 the fixed (central) portion of the dining table is accessible
> underneath via two opening lids.  Storage in the aft section is big and
> handles two gallon-size liquor bottles.  In the forward section, the
> compartment handles one gallon-size liquor bottle and then there is a tray
> about 1.5 to 2 inches deep and about 6 inches long.  The tray is not
> removable.  Has anyone ever accessed the area under this tray in any way?
>
> Bob
>
> Bob Boyer
> S/V Rainy Days (1983 C&C Landfall 38 - hull #230)
> Blog: dainyr...@blogspot.com
> Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
> Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)
>
> On May 4, 2016, at 2:37 PM, ed vanderkruk via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Very bad idea inside a boat. As it sublimates it will replace the oxygen
> in the lowest parts of the boat ... i.e. the living area.
>
> Ed
>
> QCYC Toronto
> On May 4, 2016 2:29 PM, "Lorne Serpa via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
>
>> Will the ice box handle dry ice? I know that for everyday cooler that you
>> take to the beach they're not designed for the extra low temperature of dry
>> ice.
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>> ___
>
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> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
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> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Re: Stus-List Inaccessible area in forward section of dining table in LF 38

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

Yes, that's exactly the area.  Is it raised to within 1.5 to 2 inches 
underneath the opening lid?

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)

> On May 4, 2016, at 3:00 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Bob — are you talking about the very forward portion of the pedestal?  I 
> don’t have a “tray” there; but that section under the lid is raised, and 
> beneath it is where the forward post mounts to support the table.  So there’s 
> really no storage space there.
> 
> — Fred
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
> 
>> On May 4, 2016, at 1:46 PM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> On my LF 38 the fixed (central) portion of the dining table is accessible 
>> underneath via two opening lids.  Storage in the aft section is big and 
>> handles two gallon-size liquor bottles.  In the forward section, the 
>> compartment handles one gallon-size liquor bottle and then there is a tray 
>> about 1.5 to 2 inches deep and about 6 inches long.  The tray is not 
>> removable.  Has anyone ever accessed the area under this tray in any way?
>> 
>> Bob
>> 
>> Bob Boyer
>> S/V Rainy Days (1983 C&C Landfall 38 - hull #230)
>> Blog: dainyr...@blogspot.com
>> Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
>> Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)
> 
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> 
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> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Dry ice in ice box? 1988 C&C MK II 30"

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

Yes, it's not an option that would be good for your health on board.  I'm
in the wholesale food sales business and we avoid it in daily use of
samples with our salesmen in their cars.
On May 4, 2016 2:30 PM, "Lorne Serpa via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Will the ice box handle dry ice? I know that for everyday cooler that you
> take to the beach they're not designed for the extra low temperature of dry
> ice.
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Inaccessible area in forward section of dining table in LF 38

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Bob — are you talking about the very forward portion of the pedestal?  I don’t 
have a “tray” there; but that section under the lid is raised, and beneath it 
is where the forward post mounts to support the table.  So there’s really no 
storage space there.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On May 4, 2016, at 1:46 PM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> On my LF 38 the fixed (central) portion of the dining table is accessible 
> underneath via two opening lids.  Storage in the aft section is big and 
> handles two gallon-size liquor bottles.  In the forward section, the 
> compartment handles one gallon-size liquor bottle and then there is a tray 
> about 1.5 to 2 inches deep and about 6 inches long.  The tray is not 
> removable.  Has anyone ever accessed the area under this tray in any way?
> 
> Bob
> 
> Bob Boyer
> S/V Rainy Days (1983 C&C Landfall 38 - hull #230)
> Blog: dainyr...@blogspot.com 
> Email: dainyr...@icloud.com 
> Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)

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Re: Stus-List Dry ice in ice box? 1988 C&C MK II 30"

[William Walker via CnC-List]

the dry ice industry Web site says it should not be used in boats for reason 
already stated as sublimated replaces oxygenated air.  
Bill Walker 
CnC 36
Pentwater  Mi 

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Wednesday, May 4, 2016 David via CnC-List  wrote:

We have used it offshore to augment 12v refrig to keep battery consumption 
down.   Never had a problem.   

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


Date: Wed, 4 May 2016 14:37:57 -0400
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Dry ice in ice box? 1988 C&C MK II 30"
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: primeinter...@gmail.com

Very bad idea inside a boat. As it sublimates it will replace the oxygen in the 
lowest parts of the boat ... i.e. the living area.

Ed 

QCYC Toronto

On May 4, 2016 2:29 PM, "Lorne Serpa via CnC-List"  
wrote:

Will the ice box handle dry ice? I know that for everyday cooler that you take 
to the beach they're not designed for the extra low temperature of dry ice.


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Re: Stus-List Dry ice in ice box? 1988 C&C MK II 30"

[David via CnC-List]

We have used it offshore to augment 12v refrig to keep battery consumption 
down.   Never had a problem.   

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


Date: Wed, 4 May 2016 14:37:57 -0400
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Dry ice in ice box? 1988 C&C MK II 30"
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: primeinter...@gmail.com

Very bad idea inside a boat. As it sublimates it will replace the oxygen in the 
lowest parts of the boat ... i.e. the living area.
Ed 
QCYC Toronto
On May 4, 2016 2:29 PM, "Lorne Serpa via CnC-List"  
wrote:
Will the ice box handle dry ice? I know that for everyday cooler that you take 
to the beach they're not designed for the extra low temperature of dry ice.

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Stus-List Inaccessible area in forward section of dining table in LF 38

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

On my LF 38 the fixed (central) portion of the dining table is accessible 
underneath via two opening lids.  Storage in the aft section is big and handles 
two gallon-size liquor bottles.  In the forward section, the compartment 
handles one gallon-size liquor bottle and then there is a tray about 1.5 to 2 
inches deep and about 6 inches long.  The tray is not removable.  Has anyone 
ever accessed the area under this tray in any way?

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C&C Landfall 38 - hull #230)
Blog: dainyr...@blogspot.com
Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)

> On May 4, 2016, at 2:37 PM, ed vanderkruk via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Very bad idea inside a boat. As it sublimates it will replace the oxygen in 
> the lowest parts of the boat ... i.e. the living area.
> 
> Ed
> 
> QCYC Toronto
> 
>> On May 4, 2016 2:29 PM, "Lorne Serpa via CnC-List"  
>> wrote:
>> Will the ice box handle dry ice? I know that for everyday cooler that you 
>> take to the beach they're not designed for the extra low temperature of dry 
>> ice.
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Dry ice in ice box? 1988 C&C MK II 30"

[ed vanderkruk via CnC-List]

Very bad idea inside a boat. As it sublimates it will replace the oxygen in
the lowest parts of the boat ... i.e. the living area.

Ed

QCYC Toronto
On May 4, 2016 2:29 PM, "Lorne Serpa via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Will the ice box handle dry ice? I know that for everyday cooler that you
> take to the beach they're not designed for the extra low temperature of dry
> ice.
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Stus-List Dry ice in ice box? 1988 C&C MK II 30"

[Lorne Serpa via CnC-List]

Will the ice box handle dry ice? I know that for everyday cooler that you
take to the beach they're not designed for the extra low temperature of dry
ice.
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Stus-List Mast Boot

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

Apologies to the list for my unforgivable failure to change the topic 
in the below email...


Tom B


Message: 3
Date: Wed, 4 May 2016 08:04:16 -0700
From: Tom Buscaglia 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 124, Issue 30
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain;   charset=us-ascii

Josh

We used this 4" Incom product when we recommissioned Alera in 
2012.  https://www.fisheriessupply.com/incom-mast-boot-tape-re3941


We used the whole 100' roll since there was no other use I could 
think of anyway.  No leaks, still looks good and is holding up just fine.


Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera
1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200


> On May 4, 2016, at 3:26 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Wed, 4 May 2016 06:48:54 +
> From: Josh Muckley 
> To: "C&C List" 
> Subject: Stus-List Mast boot
> Message-ID:
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Ok folks,
>
> I need a new mast boot.  I've seen the poured rubber block that is more or
> less permanent.  Wally has a write up about how he did it on Stella Blue
> and I saw it first hand on Jake's boat.  I like it but I think it is too
> big of a commitment right now.  Until then, I'm thinking of using the
> self-vulcanizing rubber tape that is 6" wide.  Having used similar products
> like "Rescue Tape" for other projects, I expect that I'll need a length
> that is at least 3 times the circumference of my mast collar (35" * 3 =
> 105").
>
> Does anybody have any thoughts on the best way to do this job, or which
> product is best?
>
> Thanks,
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD


Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com
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Re: Stus-List Mast boot

[David via CnC-List]

My yard uses roofing tape.  No muss..no leaks

David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


Date: Wed, 4 May 2016 17:34:45 +
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast boot
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: muckl...@gmail.com

It just sounds so messy!  I'm a little bit afraid of high temps causing it to 
melt and drip into places I don't want it.  I appreciate the advice  but I 
think I'm going to do what everyone else does Avoid the wax ring until all 
else fails... Then except that method as superior.
Josh 
On May 4, 2016 1:21 PM, "Sam Wheeler via CnC-List"  
wrote:
I'm almost ashamed to admit it, but after a failed attempt at the 
silicone-and-self-amalgamating-tape system with a rain storm approaching, I 
went with the toilet wax method.  No leaks.  I don't even have it covered right 
now but I'm planning to put some canvas over it eventually, primarily for 
cosmetic reasons.  Even if you go with tape, it might be worth considering wax 
underneath as a backstop.
Sam35-3SF
On Wed, May 4, 2016 at 10:03 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
 wrote:
Tom,
I was looking at similar products. In fact they look almost exactly the same.  
I was afraid someone would have come forward with a horror story about one 
company over another.  Looks like that's not going to be the case.
Thanks everyone for the input, 

Josh 

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Re: Stus-List Mast boot

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

It just sounds so messy!  I'm a little bit afraid of high temps causing it
to melt and drip into places I don't want it.  I appreciate the advice  but
I think I'm going to do what everyone else does Avoid the wax ring
until all else fails... Then except that method as superior.

Josh
On May 4, 2016 1:21 PM, "Sam Wheeler via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> I'm almost ashamed to admit it, but after a failed attempt at the
> silicone-and-self-amalgamating-tape system with a rain storm approaching, I
> went with the toilet wax method
> .
> No leaks.  I don't even have it covered right now but I'm planning to put
> some canvas over it eventually, primarily for cosmetic reasons.  Even if
> you go with tape, it might be worth considering wax underneath as a
> backstop.
>
> Sam
> 35-3
> SF
>
> On Wed, May 4, 2016 at 10:03 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Tom,
>>
>> I was looking at similar products. In fact they look almost exactly the
>> same.  I was afraid someone would have come forward with a horror story
>> about one company over another.  Looks like that's not going to be the case.
>>
>> Thanks everyone for the input,
>> Josh
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Mast boot

[Sam Wheeler via CnC-List]

I'm almost ashamed to admit it, but after a failed attempt at the
silicone-and-self-amalgamating-tape system with a rain storm approaching, I
went with the toilet wax method
.
No leaks.  I don't even have it covered right now but I'm planning to put
some canvas over it eventually, primarily for cosmetic reasons.  Even if
you go with tape, it might be worth considering wax underneath as a
backstop.

Sam
35-3
SF

On Wed, May 4, 2016 at 10:03 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Tom,
>
> I was looking at similar products. In fact they look almost exactly the
> same.  I was afraid someone would have come forward with a horror story
> about one company over another.  Looks like that's not going to be the case.
>
> Thanks everyone for the input,
> Josh
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Mast boot

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Tom,

I was looking at similar products. In fact they look almost exactly the
same.  I was afraid someone would have come forward with a horror story
about one company over another.  Looks like that's not going to be the case.

Thanks everyone for the input,
Josh
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 124, Issue 30

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

Josh

We used this 4" Incom product when we recommissioned Alera in 2012.  
https://www.fisheriessupply.com/incom-mast-boot-tape-re3941

We used the whole 100' roll since there was no other use I could think of 
anyway.  No leaks, still looks good and is holding up just fine.

Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera 
1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200


> On May 4, 2016, at 3:26 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Message: 4
> Date: Wed, 4 May 2016 06:48:54 +
> From: Josh Muckley 
> To: "C&C List" 
> Subject: Stus-List Mast boot
> Message-ID:
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Ok folks,
> 
> I need a new mast boot.  I've seen the poured rubber block that is more or
> less permanent.  Wally has a write up about how he did it on Stella Blue
> and I saw it first hand on Jake's boat.  I like it but I think it is too
> big of a commitment right now.  Until then, I'm thinking of using the
> self-vulcanizing rubber tape that is 6" wide.  Having used similar products
> like "Rescue Tape" for other projects, I expect that I'll need a length
> that is at least 3 times the circumference of my mast collar (35" * 3 =
> 105").
> 
> Does anybody have any thoughts on the best way to do this job, or which
> product is best?
> 
> Thanks,
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD


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Re: Stus-List Marine grills

[mike amirault via CnC-List]

Maybe the Kuuma product has improved some but the early ones were junk. A 
friend of mine had one on his mirage 25 and the welds fell apart after one 
year.  IMHO, Dickinson or Magma are a better choice.___

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Re: Stus-List Paragon Transmission

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

Thank you, Doug.  I appreciate the support and advice.  I successfully
removed the vdrive late last night without to much trouble...while
listening to the relaxing sounds of the storm that passed through.  Lol.  I
also got the bolts off the trans that connect to the yanmar, but she's not
budging.  It was late so I decided to pause for the day and resume after
work today again.  It is heavy indeed since I still have the old one the PO
saved.  I'm canceling my gym membership after carrying it to and from my
storage unit to the boat. I'm thinking the gasket is probably sticking and
she needs some encouragement of sorts, but I don't want to start hammering
on it and have it come out and land on the shaft.  So, I'm not sure of the
best approach to next steps...  Also, I'm not totally sure what you mean by
"In the curved adapter is a universal joint that is splined to the
transmission output shaft."  The Vdrive pulled right off after
disconnecting the cooling hoses...

Thanks again for the input.  She's a beautiful boat and I'm enjoying
finishing up the restoration that the PO started.

Regards,

Brian

On Tue, May 3, 2016 at 7:50 PM, svpegasu...@gmail.com  wrote:

> Hi Brian, and welcome. I have the Paragon trans and V-drive in Pegasus. I
> was told by a marine mechanic (that repaired paragons) that you have to
> hold it in reverse. There is no detent. As for removing it yourself. Pull
> the V-drive first, remove it from the transmission. In the curved adapter
> is a universal joint that is splined to the transmission output shaft. Next
> remove the transmission. Carefull it is heavy. Good luck. You have a great
> boat.
>
>
> Doug Mountjoy
>
> svPegasus
>
> LF38 1979
>
> just west of Ballard, WA.
>
>
>
> -- Original message--
>
> *From: *Brian Davis via CnC-List
>
> *Date: *Tue, May 3, 2016 11:53
>
> *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com;
>
> *Cc: *Brian Davis;
>
> *Subject:*Re: Stus-List Paragon Transmission
>
>
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/uzo7ugqxmzlhv9w/paragon.pdf?dl=0
>
> Here is a picture of the break..
>
> On Tue, May 3, 2016 at 2:33 PM, Brian Davis via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Dear Members,
>>
>> I'm new to the list, but have found a lot of beneficial reading belonging
>> to the list.  I purchased a 1980 Landfall 38 SL a couple of months ago.
>> "Nina" was in dry dock at Indiantown Marina in Florida for nearly 3 years
>> before I bought her.  We launched her 4 weeks ago and motored her down to
>> North Palm Beach pending the availability of our slip further south.
>> The halyards are in desperate need of replacing, which is why we motored
>> the whole way...plus the diesel needed a good running after so long
>> anyhow. The fuel was 3 years old, but had stabilizer.  Amazingly, she fired
>> right up and purred like a tiger the whole way...  She's a beautiful vessel
>> for sure!!
>>
>> The PO did a lot of restorations to her one of which was a complete
>> rebuild of the Yanmar 30hp and Vdrive.  The Paragon transmission he
>> replaced as well and he happed to find one in Michigan that was still brand
>> new from 1980...believe it our not.  I'm having an issue with the Reverse
>> gear engaging and wondering if it's me or the trans.  When I carefully
>> shift her into Reverse she does seem to fully engage or stay in gear.  I'm
>> getting mixed feedback and hoping that somebody with the same set up can
>> clarify.  The shifter is on the wheel column while the throttle is on the
>> side of the cockpit.  Should I have to continuously hold the shifter down
>> in reverse to keep it engaged??  Forward works great and there is a
>> positive lock or click once I engage the shifter up into gear.  However,
>> once back off on the throttle, move it to neutral, then into reverse, and
>> then giver her juice it doesn't seem to either slow the boat or move into
>> reverse.
>>
>> To make matters worse, I was reading the Paragon instruction sheet that I
>> received from the PO and I attempted to "adjust" it as directed.  I made
>> about a 1/2  to 3/4 turn (not torqueing by any means) and it cracked.
>> After several inappropriate words to myself, I was able to contact a local
>> trans shop and they said it must be removed and brought in and completely
>> taken apart in order to replace the part.  I happen to have the original
>> trans so I hope I can pull that piece and reuse it...otherwise they said it
>> could take months to get a replacement piece.
>>
>> After a conversation with the PO he sent me the number of the place in
>> Michigan where he bought it.  I spoke with them and sent the
>> picswaiting to hear back from them on advice.  In the meantime I wanted
>> to reach out to my fellow C&C owners for advice.  I'm very handy and am
>> considering pulling the trans and replacing it myself.  Suggestions are
>> welcome!  But, I'm still curious as to why the reverse wasn't engaging
>> thoughts?
>>
>> Kind regards,
>> Brian Davis
>> ..dead in the water, but at least at a marina in sunny FL..
>>
>

Re: Stus-List 30-1 Mainsail Foot Length

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Randy

While most areas do not give a credit for an undersized foot on your mainsail 
ALL AREAS will penalize you if the foot exceeds the E measurement.

Regards

Mike
Persistence
Racing this evening in Halifax, NS

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Randy 
Stafford via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, May 04, 2016 1:50 AM
To: cnc-list
Cc: randy.staff...@comcast.net
Subject: Re: Stus-List 30-1 Mainsail Foot Length

So it turns out on this particular question everybody was partially right. :)

Like Rick Bushie's Anchovy (30-1 hull #1), my Grenadine (30-1 hull #7) has a 
13' boom with boom-end sheeting to a traveler at the aft end of the cockpit, 
and tiller steering.  The boom ends a few inches forward of the backstay, and 
its length is probably driven by that sheeting arrangement.  Perhaps later in 
the production run C&C moved the traveler forward on the 30-1 (e.g. for wheel 
steering) and shortened the boom accordingly.  Having sailed several 
tiller-steered boats up to and including a J/30, I personally like the cockpit 
layout of my boat - lots of room.

But unfortunately my current mainsail's foot is only 10'6" - a full 12" shorter 
than the 30-1's designed E dimension.  I have no idea whether that was 
intentional by a previous owner, or perhaps a screw-up by the obscure maker of 
my mainsail (whose sail bag is stamped with the year I graduated high school :)

Also my boom is raised exactly 12" from its as-built height, as C&C later did 
from the factory on the 30-1.  So I'm giving up mainsail area in both the E and 
P dimensions compared to the early 30-1's design.  When I buy a new mainsail 
I'll make sure its foot is 11'6" per the 30-1 design, or perhaps even longer 
(since I've got enough boom for that).  But I can see the advantages of leaving 
the boom a foot higher than its original location.  It makes moving around in 
the cockpit easier and safer.  It's probably not worth the extra ~12 square 
feet of mainsail area to lower it back.

Cheers,
Randy


From: "Randy Stafford via CnC-List" 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
To: "cnc-list" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: "randy stafford" 
mailto:randy.staff...@comcast.net>>
Sent: Sunday, May 1, 2016 4:01:06 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List 30-1 Mainsail Foot Length

Thanks John, Dennis, Michael, and Gary.

As soon as the #@()*%^ snow stops falling around here and I can uncover and 
raise the sail again, I'll take actual measurements and compare to the 
specified E dimension and report back.

My boat does have tiller steering, and boom-end sheeting to a traveler at the 
aft end of the cockpit.  I like the room that arrangement provides in the 
cockpit, but I'm still getting used to switching hands between tiller and 
traveler during tacks, compared to driving boats with the traveler farther 
forward in the cockpit.

Cheers,
Randy


From: "Gary Nylander via CnC-List" 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
To: "cnc-list" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: "Gary Nylander" mailto:gnylan...@atlanticbb.net>>
Sent: Sunday, May 1, 2016 3:30:30 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List 30-1 Mainsail Foot Length

Take a look at the C&C Brochures on the web site. You will see two versions of 
the early 30’s, one with end boom sheeting and the last one (d) with sheeting 
forward of the wheel. Maybe the difference is whether you had a tiller or wheel.

Gary

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Randy 
Stafford via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, May 1, 2016 11:46 AM
To: cnc-list mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: randy.staff...@comcast.net
Subject: Stus-List 30-1 Mainsail Foot Length

Listers-

I posted a few pictures from my first race in my new-to-me 30-1 (hull #7) last 
Wednesday night at https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-NqAxQ6JxFTeUlmcm1IX1c5ZHc

You can see the foot of my mainsail is considerably shorter than my boom.  I'm 
wondering if that's "normal" for 30-1s (or other C&Cs for that matter).  It 
doesn't really look normal judging by brochure photos and drawings.

A previous owner had also raised the boom at least a foot from its original 
height, as the C&C itself did on later C&C 30s.

When I get a new mainsail I'd like to increase its area by both returning the 
boom to its original height, and increasing the length of mainsail's foot.  I'm 
thinking more area equals more power equals more speed.  And I can live with a 
lower boom.

Any words of wisdom to share?

Thanks,
Randy Stafford
S/V Grenadine
C&C 30-1 #7
Ken Caryl, CO

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Re: Stus-List Mast boot

[Rick Bushie via CnC-List]

Anchovy's five year old boot is cut from an inner tube from Tractor Supply. The 
seam is sealed with contact cement and the sail track filled with silicone. Not 
a drop of leakage.

Rick Bushie

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List Mast boot

[John McKay via CnC-List]

I use  a strip of canvas the same colour as my sail cover. It is about 5" wide 
and 5' long. 
I wrap it around and it does the job in all but heavy, prolonged rains.
John on Enterprise 

On Wednesday, May 4, 2016 4:33 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 I have 2 inch gray self fusing tape on Touché. Put on several overlapping 
wraps. In my opinion, it's the best. Been on for several years now and is still 
in good condition. Absolutely leak tight once you fill the main sail slot with 
sealant like LifeSeal. 

The gray blends in with the aluminum mast and collar so it's barely noticeable. 
Highly recommended. 
Bought it on eBay. 
Dennis C.

Sent from my iPhone
On May 4, 2016, at 1:48 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
wrote:


Ok folks,I need a new mast boot.  I've seen the poured rubber block that is 
more or less permanent.  Wally has a write up about how he did it on Stella 
Blue and I saw it first hand on Jake's boat.  I like it but I think it is too 
big of a commitment right now.  Until then, I'm thinking of using the 
self-vulcanizing rubber tape that is 6" wide.  Having used similar products 
like "Rescue Tape" for other projects, I expect that I'll need a length that is 
at least 3 times the circumference of my mast collar (35" * 3 = 105"). Does 
anybody have any thoughts on the best way to do this job, or which product is 
best?Thanks,
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD 

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Re: Stus-List C&C 35-2 Mast step position

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

On my 35 MKII the mast is just about centered fore and aft in the
step...If those spacers are equal thickness, try 2 forward and 2
aft...works good on Alianna
Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net



On Fri, Apr 29, 2016 at 7:27 AM, Will Harney via CnC-List
 wrote:
> I have four fore aft mast step spacers on my 35-2 and would like to know 
> where the base of the mast should go to make the boat go fast.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Will Harney
> Disco Volante
> C&C 35-2 #351
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> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
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Re: Stus-List 30-1 Mainsail Foot Length

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

John

Some C&C 27 MKII's had a similar boom, looked too long but I believe
the design might have been intentional due to main sheet traveller
location...nothing wrong with a high aspect ratio main sail on the C&C
30, According to measurements on the C&C photoalbum the E dimension
for the 30 MKI is 11 feet 6 inches
Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net



On Sun, May 1, 2016 at 1:00 PM, John Pennie via CnC-List
 wrote:
> Looks short to me.  Prior owner trying to “tame” the boat or perhaps make it
> more balanced with a smaller headsail?
>
> John
>
> On May 1, 2016, at 11:45 AM, Randy Stafford via CnC-List
>  wrote:
>
> Listers-
>
> I posted a few pictures from my first race in my new-to-me 30-1 (hull #7)
> last Wednesday night at
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-NqAxQ6JxFTeUlmcm1IX1c5ZHc
>
> You can see the foot of my mainsail is considerably shorter than my boom.
> I'm wondering if that's "normal" for 30-1s (or other C&Cs for that matter).
> It doesn't really look normal judging by brochure photos and drawings.
>
> A previous owner had also raised the boom at least a foot from its original
> height, as the C&C itself did on later C&C 30s.
>
> When I get a new mainsail I'd like to increase its area by both returning
> the boom to its original height, and increasing the length of mainsail's
> foot.  I'm thinking more area equals more power equals more speed.  And I
> can live with a lower boom.
>
> Any words of wisdom to share?
>
> Thanks,
> Randy Stafford
> S/V Grenadine
> C&C 30-1 #7
> Ken Caryl, CO
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>
>
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>

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Re: Stus-List Marine grills

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Dennis

When my Force 10 log fell overboard because some spot welds left go on
the mount, very inconvenient at the time, (for Mike Hoyt, it's
somewhere near your mooring in the Northwest Arm in about 30-35 feet
of water), I got a Kuuma to replace it.  The Kuuma uses the same
mountin brackets as the Force 10  and I like it's styling better and
it is less affected by wind which was always a problem with my Force
10,  the food is just as good BBQ'ed on the Kuuma as it was on the
Force 10:

http://www.kuumaproducts.com/#!grills/c1h1t

Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net



On Tue, May 3, 2016 at 3:38 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List
 wrote:
> Well, once again, with a good amount of luck and karma, I resurrected my
> venerable old Force 10 log style BBQ grill.  This poor grill is held
> together with wire, self tappers and prayers.  The regulator is from a Weber
> portable.  It still works great!
>
> While I rarely subscribe to "cheap", I am into saving an old piece of
> equipment which I consider superior to current offerings.
>
> I really wish somebody would make a grill that isn't the size of a piano
> that works well on a boat.
>
> Are there any new players in this market?  I just saw Napoleon grills which
> is a new to me brand.  Then there was Arnall's bracket and a Cuisinart grill
> for pontoon boats.  Sheesh.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
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>
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> are greatly appreciated!
>

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Re: Stus-List Mast boot

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I have 2 inch gray self fusing tape on Touché. Put on several overlapping 
wraps. In my opinion, it's the best. Been on for several years now and is still 
in good condition. Absolutely leak tight once you fill the main sail slot with 
sealant like LifeSeal. 

The gray blends in with the aluminum mast and collar so it's barely noticeable. 
Highly recommended. 

Bought it on eBay. 

Dennis C.

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 4, 2016, at 1:48 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Ok folks,
> 
> I need a new mast boot.  I've seen the poured rubber block that is more or 
> less permanent.  Wally has a write up about how he did it on Stella Blue and 
> I saw it first hand on Jake's boat.  I like it but I think it is too big of a 
> commitment right now.  Until then, I'm thinking of using the self-vulcanizing 
> rubber tape that is 6" wide.  Having used similar products like "Rescue Tape" 
> for other projects, I expect that I'll need a length that is at least 3 times 
> the circumference of my mast collar (35" * 3 = 105").
> 
> Does anybody have any thoughts on the best way to do this job, or which 
> product is best?
> 
> Thanks,
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 
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