Re: Stus-List Soft thumping/banging when in gear at low-rpm?

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

I think you should try minor adjustments 1st. Then, if you need to open the
trany cover and move the shaft while in neutral and inspect the oil level.

I tested mine today after I rebuilt it and installed. A couple minor
adjusts in the reverse band nut and one small one to the forward.  She
seems to run great and my reverse is now engaging when I hold it firm. I
had taken pics and saved all my notes and will share soon.

Good luck.
On May 11, 2016 10:07 PM, "Ainslie via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> My 35-3 has the same issue. The PO advised me about it, and we
> experienced it a bit while sailing her home last fall. Launched and sailed
> today and it was knocking a little more than last fall. But I recall
> someone on the list said to make sure the shifter lever is hard ahead. Mine
> wasn’t. When I held the lever there, no knocking at all through the rpm
> range. Do you think I can adjust the cable or levers to hold the shifter
> firmly in Fwd, or am I still looking at lapping the cones? The bungee cord
> was my friend today!
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jason Ainslie, Spirit
>
> C&C 35-3
>
> Bayfield, ON
>
>
> --
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Andrew
> Means via CnC-List
> *Sent:* May-11-16 2:56 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Andrew Means
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Soft thumping/banging when in gear at low-rpm?
>
>
>
> Guys this is fantastic information (and hopefully not too expensive)!
> Thanks to everybody for all the info. If I end up doing the work to remove
> the transmission I'll do my best to document the process for posterity.
>
>
> On May 10, 2016, at 11:17 AM, Brian Davis via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Thank you
>
>
>
>
> 
>
> Virus-free. www.avast.com
> 
>
> <#m_3626966532873275723_DDB4FAA8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
>
>
>
> On Tue, May 10, 2016 at 1:49 PM, Dave Syer via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I used the auto supply stuff -  “weapons-grade” is not so available up
> here in Canada! 😉.
>
> I brushed a thin film of the compound (basically grit in grease) onto the
> mating surfaces, mated them, and rotated the cone back and forth.Did
> not do complete rotations only because Mr. Robinson told me not to in shop
> class back in ’78.   (lawn mower valves – different thing as they don’t
> rotate in use.)
>
> Again, make sure you reassemble the parts as they were removed, (mark with
> a punch) and be really careful to clean away the compound.   A solvent wash
> will show you how much grit there is, and how gritty is that grit.
>
>
>
> Here is a pretty decent link on this, one of the posts refers to a site
> with photos, where you can see the various parts.   You will need a gear
> puller.
>
>
>
> http://forums.sailinganarchy.com/index.php?showtopic=154931
>
>
>
> Dave
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Message: 1
>
> Date: Tue, 10 May 2016 09:07:32 -0400
>
> From: "Rick Brass" 
>
> To: 
>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Soft thumping/banging when in gear at low-rpm?
>
> Message-ID: <004b01d1aabc$ea4ca480$bee5ed80$@earthlink.net>
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
>
>
> Or this. Available at most any local auto parts store for a lot less cost.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> http://www.autozone.com/shop-and-garage-tools/valve-grinding-compound/permatex-valve-grinding-compound/526806_0_0/?checkfit=true
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/metal-prep-coloring/abrasives/lapping-compounds/lapping-compounds-prod1137.aspx
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
>
> --
>
> Brian Davis
>
> 1980 C&C Landfall 38
>
> "Nina"
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Soft thumping/banging when in gear at low-rpm?

[Ainslie via CnC-List]

My 35-3 has the same issue. The PO advised me about it, and we experienced it a 
bit while sailing her home last fall. Launched and sailed today and it was 
knocking a little more than last fall. But I recall someone on the list said to 
make sure the shifter lever is hard ahead. Mine wasn’t. When I held the lever 
there, no knocking at all through the rpm range. Do you think I can adjust the 
cable or levers to hold the shifter firmly in Fwd, or am I still looking at 
lapping the cones? The bungee cord was my friend today!

 

Thanks,

Jason Ainslie, Spirit

C&C 35-3

Bayfield, ON

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew Means 
via CnC-List
Sent: May-11-16 2:56 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Andrew Means
Subject: Re: Stus-List Soft thumping/banging when in gear at low-rpm?

 

Guys this is fantastic information (and hopefully not too expensive)! Thanks to 
everybody for all the info. If I end up doing the work to remove the 
transmission I'll do my best to document the process for posterity.


On May 10, 2016, at 11:17 AM, Brian Davis via CnC-List  
wrote:

Thank you

 


 

 

Virus-free.  

 www.avast.com 



 

On Tue, May 10, 2016 at 1:49 PM, Dave Syer via CnC-List  
wrote:

I used the auto supply stuff -  “weapons-grade” is not so available up here in 
Canada! 😉.  

I brushed a thin film of the compound (basically grit in grease) onto the 
mating surfaces, mated them, and rotated the cone back and forth.Did not do 
complete rotations only because Mr. Robinson told me not to in shop class back 
in ’78.   (lawn mower valves – different thing as they don’t rotate in use.)

Again, make sure you reassemble the parts as they were removed, (mark with a 
punch) and be really careful to clean away the compound.   A solvent wash will 
show you how much grit there is, and how gritty is that grit.  

 

Here is a pretty decent link on this, one of the posts refers to a site with 
photos, where you can see the various parts.   You will need a gear puller.

 

http://forums.sailinganarchy.com/index.php?showtopic=154931

 

Dave

 

 

 

 

Message: 1

Date: Tue, 10 May 2016 09:07:32 -0400

From: "Rick Brass" 

To: 

Subject: Re: Stus-List Soft thumping/banging when in gear at low-rpm?

Message-ID: <004b01d1aabc$ea4ca480$bee5ed80$@earthlink.net>

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

 

Or this. Available at most any local auto parts store for a lot less cost.

 

 

 

http://www.autozone.com/shop-and-garage-tools/valve-grinding-compound/permatex-valve-grinding-compound/526806_0_0/?checkfit=true

 

 

 

 

 

 

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/metal-prep-coloring/abrasives/lapping-compounds/lapping-compounds-prod1137.aspx

 

 

 


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greatly appreciated!




-- 

Brian Davis

1980 C&C Landfall 38

"Nina"

  

 

___

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greatly appreciated!

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Painting the interior

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Preparation is usually 80% of any job on a boat.  I'd consider priming it
first.

I painted the interior of a J30 some years ago.  Used Interlux Brightside
and a foam roller.  Came out nice.

Dennis C.

On Wed, May 11, 2016 at 5:14 PM, Adam Hayden via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hey listers,
>
> I am considering painting the interior of State of Bliss.   As some know
> she spent a bit of time underwater.   Some of the panels are a little water
> spotted.   Any thoughts on using a primer like kills or Binz on the areas.
>  The areas in question are the parts that had the laminate wood or were off
> white.   None of the teak will be painted.   I live in Eastern Canada so
> winter temperatures will play.   I do not want to be painting and scraping
> every spring.
>
> Your advice and guidance would be appreciated
>
> Adam
>
> state of Bliss
>
> C&C 36
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Painting the interior

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Adam,

I’m not sure how the 36’ interior looks but FWIW, on our boat I painted the 
parts of the interior that one might consider as the “overhead." I did not 
paint the lower sections of the liner which are the C&C off-white color 
because, frankly, it would have been a very big job and those areas were in 
generally good shape. Just doing the overhead made a big difference in 
brightness and appearance  and I feel it was well worth the effort. My example 
probably doesn’t address your concerns with water damage though.

I used the two-part Interlux Perfection product and initially thought that I 
could get away with brushing it on but quickly realized that was not a 
desirable outcome with the brushstrokes showing. I switched over and used a 
spray gun. Sanding and priming were not necessary. The paint is holding up well 
after 2+ years.

Some pics in the blog. Good luck with your project.

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
> On May 11, 2016, at 6:14 PM, Adam Hayden via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hey listers,
> 
> I am considering painting the interior of State of Bliss.   As some know she 
> spent a bit of time underwater.   Some of the panels are a little water 
> spotted.   Any thoughts on using a primer like kills or Binz on the areas.   
> The areas in question are the parts that had the laminate wood or were off 
> white.   None of the teak will be painted.   I live in Eastern Canada so 
> winter temperatures will play.   I do not want to be painting and scraping 
> every spring.   
> 
> Your advice and guidance would be appreciated
> 
> Adam
> 
> state of Bliss
> 
> C&C 36
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Painting the interior

[Adam Hayden via CnC-List]

Hey listers,

I am considering painting the interior of State of Bliss.   As some know she 
spent a bit of time underwater.   Some of the panels are a little water 
spotted.   Any thoughts on using a primer like kills or Binz on the areas.   
The areas in question are the parts that had the laminate wood or were off 
white.   None of the teak will be painted.   I live in Eastern Canada so winter 
temperatures will play.   I do not want to be painting and scraping every 
spring.   

Your advice and guidance would be appreciated

Adam

state of Bliss

C&C 36

Sent from my iPhone
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Triple Pole Breaker.

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Back in the day some boats used 3 pole breakers on the shore power inlet to 
include the green wire. This has a dangerous failure mode or two, so it should 
no longer be done.
Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Sailnomad 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, May 11, 2016 12:09
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Sailnomad
Subject: Stus-List Triple Pole Breaker.

A friend of mine is replacing a triple pole breaker on his older boat.
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=61868
I know double pole breakers are used to cut out the Neutral and the Hot at the 
same time. This one also has a built-in reverse polarity breaker.
Boes anyone know how is it supposed to be wired ? is the third pole used to 
disconnect the ground ?

Thank You
Ahmet
S/V Tabasco C&C 25
Winthrop, MA
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This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
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Re: Stus-List Soft thumping/banging when in gear at low-rpm?

[Andrew Means via CnC-List]

Guys this is fantastic information (and hopefully not too expensive)! Thanks to 
everybody for all the info. If I end up doing the work to remove the 
transmission I'll do my best to document the process for posterity.


> On May 10, 2016, at 11:17 AM, Brian Davis via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Thank you
> 
>   Virus-free. www.avast.com
> 
>> On Tue, May 10, 2016 at 1:49 PM, Dave Syer via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> I used the auto supply stuff -  “weapons-grade” is not so available up here 
>> in Canada! 😉. 
>> 
>> I brushed a thin film of the compound (basically grit in grease) onto the 
>> mating surfaces, mated them, and rotated the cone back and forth.Did not 
>> do complete rotations only because Mr. Robinson told me not to in shop class 
>> back in ’78.   (lawn mower valves – different thing as they don’t rotate in 
>> use.)
>> 
>> Again, make sure you reassemble the parts as they were removed, (mark with a 
>> punch) and be really careful to clean away the compound.   A solvent wash 
>> will show you how much grit there is, and how gritty is that grit. 
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Here is a pretty decent link on this, one of the posts refers to a site with 
>> photos, where you can see the various parts.   You will need a gear puller.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> http://forums.sailinganarchy.com/index.php?showtopic=154931
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Dave
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Message: 1
>> 
>> Date: Tue, 10 May 2016 09:07:32 -0400
>> 
>> From: "Rick Brass" 
>> 
>> To: 
>> 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Soft thumping/banging when in gear at low-rpm?
>> 
>> Message-ID: <004b01d1aabc$ea4ca480$bee5ed80$@earthlink.net>
>> 
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Or this. Available at most any local auto parts store for a lot less cost.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> http://www.autozone.com/shop-and-garage-tools/valve-grinding-compound/permatex-valve-grinding-compound/526806_0_0/?checkfit=true
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/metal-prep-coloring/abrasives/lapping-compounds/lapping-compounds-prod1137.aspx
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Brian Davis
> 1980 C&C Landfall 38
> "Nina"
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 37+ (or XL) Wiring Question

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Joel,

That is correct. One came with the TackTick package and it already installed. 
Just need to connect the wire from there to the helm. 

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 










> On May 11, 2016, at 1:30 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Edd,
> 
> You'll need a T122 box to make the connection.
> 
> Joel
> 
> On Wed, May 11, 2016 at 1:27 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Interesting. I didn’t realize that there were so many configurations. The PO 
> had a depth transducer on the port side of the leading edge of the keel and a 
> speed transducer on the starboard side. I replaced the speed with a combo 
> until when I went with TackTick instruments. My batteries are are under the 
> same seating, but the aft section in the area that borders the galley sink. 
> 
> The project I’m working on it to have the TackTick instruments communicate 
> with my new Raymarine MFD. 
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> 
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY 
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>> On May 11, 2016, at 12:26 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> 
>> I think you may be right, the transducer location may well be tied to the 
>> keel type.  Alera has a wing keel . 
>> Tom Buscaglia
>> SV Alera
>> 1990 C&C 37+/40
>> Vashon Island WA
>> (206) 463-9200 
>> www.sv-alera.com
>> 
>>  --
>> 
>> Message: 4
>> Date: Tue, 10 May 2016 21:29:10 -0300
>> From: Ken Heaton mailto:kenhea...@gmail.com>>
>> To: cnc-list mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
>> Cc: Tom Buscaglia mailto:t...@sv-alera.com>>
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List 37+ (or XL) Wiring Question
>> Message-ID:
>>  > >
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>> 
>> My transducers are under the aft edge of the berth in the forward cabin and
>> can be seen by opening the doors under the berth or opening the lid over
>> that storage area.
>> 
>> They all seem to be a bit different.  Perhaps Edd's is different because of
>> his shallow keel?
>> 
>> I also have a engine start battery under the forward end of the settee with
>> a small access hole to the thru hull for the forward sink.
>> 
>> 
>> Ken Heaton
>> S/V Salazar - Can 54955
>> C&C 37/40 XL - Hull # 67
>> Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 37+ (or XL) Wiring Question

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Edd,

You'll need a T122 box to make the connection.

Joel

On Wed, May 11, 2016 at 1:27 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Interesting. I didn’t realize that there were so many configurations. The
> PO had a depth transducer on the port side of the leading edge of the keel
> and a speed transducer on the starboard side. I replaced the speed with a
> combo until when I went with TackTick instruments. My batteries are are
> under the same seating, but the aft section in the area that borders the
> galley sink.
>
> The project I’m working on it to have the TackTick instruments communicate
> with my new Raymarine MFD.
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On May 11, 2016, at 12:26 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I think you may be right, the transducer location may well be tied to the
> keel type.  Alera has a wing keel .
>
> Tom Buscaglia
> SV Alera
> 1990 C&C 37+/40
> Vashon Island WA
> (206) 463-9200
> www.sv-alera.com
>
> --
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Tue, 10 May 2016 21:29:10 -0300
> From: Ken Heaton 
> To: cnc-list 
> Cc: Tom Buscaglia 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 37+ (or XL) Wiring Question
> Message-ID:
>  <
> CAAbfP6QcUywLuZ8Wr6GuzPR-V6GxNVE6tu3-y_AE=hlnupi...@mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> My transducers are under the aft edge of the berth in the forward cabin and
> can be seen by opening the doors under the berth or opening the lid over
> that storage area.
>
> They all seem to be a bit different.  Perhaps Edd's is different because of
> his shallow keel?
>
> I also have a engine start battery under the forward end of the settee with
> a small access hole to the thru hull for the forward sink.
>
>
> Ken Heaton
> S/V Salazar - Can 54955
> C&C 37/40 XL - Hull # 67
> Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 37+ (or XL) Wiring Question

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Interesting. I didn’t realize that there were so many configurations. The PO 
had a depth transducer on the port side of the leading edge of the keel and a 
speed transducer on the starboard side. I replaced the speed with a combo until 
when I went with TackTick instruments. My batteries are are under the same 
seating, but the aft section in the area that borders the galley sink. 

The project I’m working on it to have the TackTick instruments communicate with 
my new Raymarine MFD. 

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 







> On May 11, 2016, at 12:26 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I think you may be right, the transducer location may well be tied to the 
> keel type.  Alera has a wing keel . 
> Tom Buscaglia
> SV Alera
> 1990 C&C 37+/40
> Vashon Island WA
> (206) 463-9200
> www.sv-alera.com
> 
>  --
> 
> Message: 4
> Date: Tue, 10 May 2016 21:29:10 -0300
> From: Ken Heaton 
> To: cnc-list 
> Cc: Tom Buscaglia 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 37+ (or XL) Wiring Question
> Message-ID:
>  
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> My transducers are under the aft edge of the berth in the forward cabin and
> can be seen by opening the doors under the berth or opening the lid over
> that storage area.
> 
> They all seem to be a bit different.  Perhaps Edd's is different because of
> his shallow keel?
> 
> I also have a engine start battery under the forward end of the settee with
> a small access hole to the thru hull for the forward sink.
> 
> 
> Ken Heaton
> S/V Salazar - Can 54955
> C&C 37/40 XL - Hull # 67
> Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia
> 
> 
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> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
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Re: Stus-List Triple Pole Breaker.

[Sam Wheeler via CnC-List]

I don't know very much about such things, but it sounds like if he is
replacing it anyway and in fact has a 120 volt system, he might want to
consider going with a double pole breaker instead of triple.

Sam
35-3
SF

On Wed, May 11, 2016 at 9:34 AM, Ahmet via CnC-List 
wrote:

> That is what I thought too. I did not think it was wise to disconnect the
> green.
> Thank you, I will let him know
> Ahmet
>
>
> On Wed, May 11, 2016 at 12:23 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Ahmet — a three-pole breaker like that would typically be used on a
>> 240-volt shore power system, which has TWO hots and a neutral.  The breaker
>> would interrupt all three of those, with the ground left untouched.  NEVER
>> DISCONNECT THE SAFETY GROUND!!!
>>
>> If your friend only has a 120-volt system, he only needs to wire two of
>> the three poles.
>>
>> — Fred
>>
>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>>
>> On May 11, 2016, at 11:09 AM, Sailnomad via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> A friend of mine is replacing a triple pole breaker on his older boat.
>> http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=61868
>> I know double pole breakers are used to cut out the Neutral and the Hot
>> at the same time. This one also has a built-in reverse polarity breaker.
>> Boes anyone know how is it supposed to be wired ? is the third pole used
>> to disconnect the ground ?
>>
>> Thank You
>> Ahmet
>> S/V Tabasco C&C 25
>> Winthrop, MA
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>
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> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
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> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Triple Pole Breaker.

[Ahmet via CnC-List]

That is what I thought too. I did not think it was wise to disconnect the
green.
Thank you, I will let him know
Ahmet


On Wed, May 11, 2016 at 12:23 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Ahmet — a three-pole breaker like that would typically be used on a
> 240-volt shore power system, which has TWO hots and a neutral.  The breaker
> would interrupt all three of those, with the ground left untouched.  NEVER
> DISCONNECT THE SAFETY GROUND!!!
>
> If your friend only has a 120-volt system, he only needs to wire two of
> the three poles.
>
> — Fred
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>
> On May 11, 2016, at 11:09 AM, Sailnomad via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> A friend of mine is replacing a triple pole breaker on his older boat.
> http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=61868
> I know double pole breakers are used to cut out the Neutral and the Hot at
> the same time. This one also has a built-in reverse polarity breaker.
> Boes anyone know how is it supposed to be wired ? is the third pole used
> to disconnect the ground ?
>
> Thank You
> Ahmet
> S/V Tabasco C&C 25
> Winthrop, MA
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Stus-List 37+ (or XL) Wiring Question

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

I think you may be right, the transducer location may well be tied to 
the keel type.  Alera has a wing keel .


Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com

--

Message: 4
Date: Tue, 10 May 2016 21:29:10 -0300
From: Ken Heaton 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Tom Buscaglia 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 37+ (or XL) Wiring Question
Message-ID:

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

My transducers are under the aft edge of the berth in the forward cabin and
can be seen by opening the doors under the berth or opening the lid over
that storage area.

They all seem to be a bit different.  Perhaps Edd's is different because of
his shallow keel?

I also have a engine start battery under the forward end of the settee with
a small access hole to the thru hull for the forward sink.


Ken Heaton
S/V Salazar - Can 54955
C&C 37/40 XL - Hull # 67
Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia


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Re: Stus-List Triple Pole Breaker.

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Ahmet — a three-pole breaker like that would typically be used on a 240-volt 
shore power system, which has TWO hots and a neutral.  The breaker would 
interrupt all three of those, with the ground left untouched.  NEVER DISCONNECT 
THE SAFETY GROUND!!!

If your friend only has a 120-volt system, he only needs to wire two of the 
three poles.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On May 11, 2016, at 11:09 AM, Sailnomad via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> A friend of mine is replacing a triple pole breaker on his older boat.
> http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=61868 
> 
> I know double pole breakers are used to cut out the Neutral and the Hot at 
> the same time. This one also has a built-in reverse polarity breaker.
> Boes anyone know how is it supposed to be wired ? is the third pole used to 
> disconnect the ground ?
> 
> Thank You
> Ahmet
> S/V Tabasco C&C 25
> Winthrop, MA
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Stus-List Triple Pole Breaker.

[Sailnomad via CnC-List]

A friend of mine is replacing a triple pole breaker on his older boat.
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=61868
I know double pole breakers are used to cut out the Neutral and the Hot at
the same time. This one also has a built-in reverse polarity breaker.
Boes anyone know how is it supposed to be wired ? is the third pole used to
disconnect the ground ?

Thank You
Ahmet
S/V Tabasco C&C 25
Winthrop, MA
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Stus-List Annapolis yard recommendations?

[Robert Gallagher via CnC-List]

I was hauled at Port Annapolis when I bought my boat.

I cannot comment on their workmanship as I did everything myself but launch
the boat.  The staff was pleasant and the yard seemed busy and
professional.  Lots of cruising boats on the hard with home ports from all
over.

They do have a decent chandlery and there are several other marine related
shops and craftsmen nearby, including a Yanmar dealer and a West Marine
just down the street.

The Yanmar shop was pretty big

Prices seemed a bit high, but I was used to a bare bones yard in CT, a far
cry from Annapolis.

Rob
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