Re: Stus-List PHRF #'s

2016-07-08 Thread Allan Rheaume via CnC-List 
Gary, Pat McDonalds boat is in fact Greg Cutter's old 30XL "Gremlyn" so 
his PHRF number is likely accurate. Its going to take more practice from you 
and your crew Pat!
Al RheaumeDrumroll 30-2 #90


  From: Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Gary Nylander 
 Sent: Thursday, July 7, 2016 5:31 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List PHRF #'s
   
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{}#yiv1439249532 There was a fellow on the Chesapeake who had a 30 II with a 
fin keel. I thought he was rated around 150. His name is Greg Cutter – now 
sails some sort of hot rod boat. He’s good. Jake may have contact information 
as he was on this site for a number of years.  GaryMaryland  From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Pat MacDonald via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, July 7, 2016 4:50 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Pat MacDonald 
Subject: Stus-List PHRF #'s  I bought a 1995 30MK II XL (1 of only 3 XL's made 
by C&C)  last year in Ontario and brought it out to Alberta.Yes we do have a 
big lake to sail her in :)There is a pretty good racing community here.  With 
that I'm wondering what would the PHRF be for my boat in these lake 
conditions.Wherever we look for PHRF scores my boat shows a PHRF of 141-159.At 
141 I'm getting constantly out scored by really significant margins.Any ideas 
or suggestions that would help with a more accurate PHRF #Thanks  PatMojo.  30 
MK II XL
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Re: Stus-List 33-2 - what's in the fridge?

2016-07-08 Thread Syerdave--- via CnC-List 
Josh - the ss lobster controller is a cool idea.   (So to speak).   

Dave, josh, I will email them today regarding compatibility with my older Nova 
cool and will post the response to the list.

Dave 33-2


Message: 2
Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2016 16:23:14 -0700
From: "David Blair" 
To: 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 33-2 - what's in the fridge?
Message-ID: <023f01d1d8a6$896b81f0$9c4285d0$@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

When I contacted the Stainless Lobster folks they said my NovaKool was ?too 
old? ? ie: 1990 .  Still runs fine even at the ?advanced age?.  Apparently 
there is no interest in adapting their product to the older units (would make 
sense in terms of potential market to me).  FYI



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, July 07, 2016 5:14 AM
To: C&C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List 33-2 - what's in the fridge?



Dave, 

Any fridge systems that have the danfoss compressor (Nova Cool, Alder Barbour, 
etc.) are probably compatible with the Stainless Lobster fridge controller.  
This would be the upgrade that I would strongly consider prior to replacing a 
perfectly good system.  Some of the manufacturers (Nova Cool) will 
refurbish/recharge your used system for a reasonable price (~$100).  The 
threaded connections are well design to be lossless when connected/disconnected.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
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Re: Stus-List Water Tank Woes

2016-07-08 Thread Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
Kelly,Have you tried replacing the fitting?If it's a poly fitting it could have 
gotten damge to the threads or mis-shaped somehow...
Worth a shot I think. 
Use some good Teflon tape and maybe some kind of pipe sealer.   I used to use a 
product called 'grip' when I was worried about leaks.  It's messy though and is 
hard to break the joint later.   Also,  you don't want to use too much Teflon 
Tape on the joint.  Just a few wraps.   
Danny 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
 Original message From: Harry Hallgring Jr via CnC-List 
 Date: 7/7/16  8:50 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Harry Hallgring Jr  Subject: 
Re: Stus-List Water Tank Woes 
I have 3-20 gallon Kracor tanks and 2-23.5 gallon Nauta bladders for fresh 
water and 1-39.5 gallon Kracor tank for poop. They all perform well. 

HarrySent from my iPhone 7 beta
On Jul 7, 2016, at 20:12, Dennis C. via CnC-List  wrote:

Replace it with a flex tank.  I love my flex tanks.  I don't have a single 
rigid tank on Touche'.

For some reason, flex tanks don't have a strong following.  However, in being a 
member of this list for a decade and a half, I do not remember a single post 
about a failure of a flex tank.  There have been several about rigid tanks.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Thu, Jul 7, 2016 at 4:56 PM, kelly petew via CnC-List 
 wrote:



One of my water tanks continues to leak and it appears to be where the barbed 
elbow fitting exits the tank .  I've wrapped the threads with Teflon tape [both 
pink and white], but it fails to make a good seal.  This is my 3rd attempt to 
fix it. 
The tank is a Kracor brand, and the tank's walls and bottom appear to be quite 
thick.  I have observed "weeping" only right around the hole where the elbow 
fitting is screwed into it.
 
Does anyone have a suggestion?  Is there some adhesive that I can apply the 
threads of the barbed fitting??
 
Thanks,
 
Pete W.
 
Siren Song
C&C 30-2
Deltaville, VA. 
  

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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest -- Water Tank Woes

2016-07-08 Thread kelly petew via CnC-List 
Everyone, 
thanks for your guidance.  I'll check it out [including the 'scoop on goop'].
I'd not thought about flex tanks or Marelon thru hull.
 
Gary, 
help me with the link you sent below.  When I try it, Defender doesn't 
recognize the item.
 
Thanks again!!!
 
Pete W. 
Siren Song 
30-2
 

> 
> --
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2016 20:37:36 -0400
> From: Gary Russell 
> To: "C&C List" 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Water Tank Woes
> Message-ID:
>   
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Can you replace the fitting with this?
> 
> http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|51|2234277|2234279&id=146726
> 
> Gary
> S/V Kaylarah
> '90 C&C 37+
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
> 
> ~~~_/)~~
> 
> 
> On Thu, Jul 7, 2016 at 8:12 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> > Replace it with a flex tank.  I love my flex tanks.  I don't have a single
> > rigid tank on Touche'.
> >
> > For some reason, flex tanks don't have a strong following.  However, in
> > being a member of this list for a decade and a half, I do not remember a
> > single post about a failure of a flex tank.  There have been several about
> > rigid tanks.
> >
> > Dennis C.
> > Touche' 35-1 #83
> > Mandeville, LA
> >
> > On Thu, Jul 7, 2016 at 4:56 PM, kelly petew via CnC-List <
> > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >
> >> One of my water tanks continues to leak and it appears to be where the
> >> barbed elbow fitting exits the tank .  I've wrapped the threads with Teflon
> >> tape [both pink and white], but it fails to make a good seal.  This is my
> >> 3rd attempt to fix it.
> >> The tank is a Kracor brand, and the tank's walls and bottom appear to be
> >> quite thick.  I have observed "weeping" only right around the hole where
> >> the elbow fitting is screwed into it.
> >>
> >> Does anyone have a suggestion?  Is there some adhesive that I can apply
> >> the threads of the barbed fitting??
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >>
> >> Pete W.
> >>
> >> Siren Song
> >> C&C 30-2
> >> Deltaville, VA.
> >>
> >> ___
> >>
> >> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> >> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> >> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> >>
> >>
> >
> > ___
> >
> > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> > like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> > Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> >
> >
> -- next part --
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: 
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 2
> Date: Thu, 07 Jul 2016 20:50:43 -0400
> From: Harry Hallgring Jr 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Water Tank Woes
> Message-ID: 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> I have 3-20 gallon Kracor tanks and 2-23.5 gallon Nauta bladders for fresh 
> water and 1-39.5 gallon Kracor tank for poop. They all perform well. 
> 
> Harry
> Sent from my iPhone 7 beta
> 
> > On Jul 7, 2016, at 20:12, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> > wrote:
> > 
> > Replace it with a flex tank.  I love my flex tanks.  I don't have a single 
> > rigid tank on Touche'.
> > 
> > For some reason, flex tanks don't have a strong following.  However, in 
> > being a member of this list for a decade and a half, I do not remember a 
> > single post about a failure of a flex tank.  There have been several about 
> > rigid tanks.
> > 
> > Dennis C.
> > Touche' 35-1 #83
> > Mandeville, LA
> > 
> >> On Thu, Jul 7, 2016 at 4:56 PM, kelly petew via CnC-List 
> >>  wrote:
> >> One of my water tanks continues to leak and it appears to be where the 
> >> barbed elbow fitting exits the tank .  I've wrapped the threads with 
> >> Teflon tape [both pink and white], but it fails to make a good seal.  This 
> >> is my 3rd attempt to fix it. 
> >> The tank is a Kracor brand, and the tank's walls and bottom appear to be 
> >> quite thick.  I have observed "weeping" only right around the hole where 
> >> the elbow fitting is screwed into it.
> >>  
> >> Does anyone have a suggestion?  Is there some adhesive that I can apply 
> >> the threads of the barbed fitting??
> >>  
> >> Thanks,
> >>  
> >> Pete W.
> >>  
> >> Siren Song
> >> C&C 30-2
> >> Deltaville, VA. 
> >> 
> >> ___
> >> 
> >> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
> >> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All 
> >> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> > 
> > ___
> > 
> > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
> > like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All 
> > Contrib

Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest -- Water Tank Woes

2016-07-08 Thread Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
This is the part Gary refernced:  Attwood Plastic Mushroom Head Thru-Hull
Fitting - 3/4"

Might be a rare time when 5200 is called for!

joel

On Fri, Jul 8, 2016 at 9:51 AM, kelly petew via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Everyone,
> thanks for your guidance.  I'll check it out [including the 'scoop on
> goop'].
> I'd not thought about flex tanks or Marelon thru hull.
>
> Gary,
> help me with the link you sent below.  When I try it, Defender doesn't
> recognize the item.
>
> Thanks again!!!
>
> Pete W.
> Siren Song
> 30-2
>
>
> >
> > --
> >
> > Message: 1
> > Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2016 20:37:36 -0400
> > From: Gary Russell 
> > To: "C&C List" 
> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Water Tank Woes
> > Message-ID:
> > 
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> >
> > Can you replace the fitting with this?
> >
> >
> http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|51|2234277|2234279&id=146726
> >
> > Gary
> > S/V Kaylarah
> > '90 C&C 37+
> > East Greenwich, RI, USA
> >
> > ~~~_/)~~
> >
> >
> > On Thu, Jul 7, 2016 at 8:12 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
> > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >
> > > Replace it with a flex tank. I love my flex tanks. I don't have a
> single
> > > rigid tank on Touche'.
> > >
> > > For some reason, flex tanks don't have a strong following. However, in
> > > being a member of this list for a decade and a half, I do not remember
> a
> > > single post about a failure of a flex tank. There have been several
> about
> > > rigid tanks.
> > >
> > > Dennis C.
> > > Touche' 35-1 #83
> > > Mandeville, LA
> > >
> > > On Thu, Jul 7, 2016 at 4:56 PM, kelly petew via CnC-List <
> > > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> > >
> > >> One of my water tanks continues to leak and it appears to be where the
> > >> barbed elbow fitting exits the tank . I've wrapped the threads with
> Teflon
> > >> tape [both pink and white], but it fails to make a good seal. This is
> my
> > >> 3rd attempt to fix it.
> > >> The tank is a Kracor brand, and the tank's walls and bottom appear to
> be
> > >> quite thick. I have observed "weeping" only right around the hole
> where
> > >> the elbow fitting is screwed into it.
> > >>
> > >> Does anyone have a suggestion? Is there some adhesive that I can apply
> > >> the threads of the barbed fitting??
> > >>
> > >> Thanks,
> > >>
> > >> Pete W.
> > >>
> > >> Siren Song
> > >> C&C 30-2
> > >> Deltaville, VA.
> > >>
> > >> ___
> > >>
> > >> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If
> you
> > >> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> > >> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> > >>
> > >>
> > >
> > > ___
> > >
> > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> > > like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> > > Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> > >
> > >
> > -- next part --
> > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > URL: <
> http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20160707/8664ae04/attachment-0001.html
> >
> >
> > --
> >
> > Message: 2
> > Date: Thu, 07 Jul 2016 20:50:43 -0400
> > From: Harry Hallgring Jr 
> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Water Tank Woes
> > Message-ID: 
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> >
> > I have 3-20 gallon Kracor tanks and 2-23.5 gallon Nauta bladders for
> fresh water and 1-39.5 gallon Kracor tank for poop. They all perform well.
> >
> > Harry
> > Sent from my iPhone 7 beta
> >
> > > On Jul 7, 2016, at 20:12, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> > >
> > > Replace it with a flex tank. I love my flex tanks. I don't have a
> single rigid tank on Touche'.
> > >
> > > For some reason, flex tanks don't have a strong following. However, in
> being a member of this list for a decade and a half, I do not remember a
> single post about a failure of a flex tank. There have been several about
> rigid tanks.
> > >
> > > Dennis C.
> > > Touche' 35-1 #83
> > > Mandeville, LA
> > >
> > >> On Thu, Jul 7, 2016 at 4:56 PM, kelly petew via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> > >> One of my water tanks continues to leak and it appears to be where
> the barbed elbow fitting exits the tank . I've wrapped the threads with
> Teflon tape [both pink and white], but it fails to make a good seal. This
> is my 3rd attempt to fix it.
> > >> The tank is a Kracor brand, and the tank's walls and bottom appear to
> be quite thick. I have observed "weeping" only right around the hole where
> the elbow fitting is screwed into it.
> > >>
> > >> Does anyone have a suggestion? Is there some adhesive that I can
> apply the threads of the barbed fitting??
> > >>
> > >> Thanks,
> > >>
> > >> Pete W.
> > >>
> > >> Siren Song
> > >> C&C 30-2
> > >> Deltaville, VA.
> > >>
> > >> ___

cnc-list@cnc-list.com

2016-07-08 Thread Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
The guy who bought my Pearson 28 is ready to move up and is looking for a
clean 1990s 34-37 footer.  He is in southern VA.

If you are thinking of selling your boat, I'd be happy to connect you.

-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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2016-07-08 Thread Allan Rheaume via CnC-List 
Far away but I did see a 34+ in Toronto on Yachtworld for around 80K Canadian. 
Given the exchange rate it might be worthwhile.
Al RheaumeDrumroll 30-2 #90


  From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
 To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"  
Cc: Joel Aronson 
 Sent: Friday, July 8, 2016 9:58 AM
 Subject: Stus-List Friend is looking for a C&C
   
The guy who bought my Pearson 28 is ready to move up and is looking for a clean 
1990s 34-37 footer.  He is in southern VA.
If you are thinking of selling your boat, I'd be happy to connect you.

-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List PHRF #'s

2016-07-08 Thread Michael Brown via CnC-List 
Hi Pat,

  I was at the PHRF Lake Ontario Toronto West District meeting when the 30-2 XL
class PHRF was set in 2013. The process used was to determine comparable boats,
which was easy because the 30-2 class already was rated. There also was a custom
30-2 XL with a modified keel and rudder. It was felt that the 30-2 XL should be 
slightly
faster than the standard 30-2 though there was no race results to verify that. 
The
mod boat should have been faster still, again no race results.

  The 30-2 class SP was FS: 147, and the 30-2 XL MOD was FS: 144. Since PHRF at 
the
time did class SP in increments of 3 sec / mile the recommendation was to set:

Standard C&C 30-2  147 / 168
 C&C 30-2 XL        144 / 165
 C&C 30-2 XL MOD    141 / 162  - Modified bulb keel and rudder


As far as your PHRF out in Alberta that would be up to the local PHRF chapter 
but
-3 sec / mile compared to a 30-2, maybe - 6 sec / mile to a CS30 would be a 
starting point.

I have raced a 30-1 against the 30-2 and CS30 on both course races and long 
distance
races. Our PHRF spread is 20 - 25 sec / mile under PHRF-LO and I really do not 
see that
much difference on many points of sail.

Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1


From: Pat MacDonald  
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"  
Subject: Stus-List PHRF #'s 
Message-ID:  
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" 
 
I bought a 1995 30MK II XL (1 of only 3 XL's made by C&C)  last year in Ontario 
and brought it out to Alberta. 
Yes we do have a big lake to sail her in :) 
There is a pretty good racing community here.  With that I'm wondering what 
would the PHRF be for my boat in these lake conditions. 
Wherever we look for PHRF scores my boat shows a PHRF of 141-159. 
At 141 I'm getting constantly out scored by really significant margins. 
Any ideas or suggestions that would help with a more accurate PHRF # 
Thanks 
 
Pat 
Mojo.  30 MK II XL 
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Re: Stus-List Defiant - 86 C&C 41

2016-07-08 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List 


Hi Aaron,

Your friend should confirm with the broker the location of the boat 
so there is no surprise when he gets there. It's listed as Mill Bay, 
which is some  hundred dollars CND (so what's that 50 USD? :) and 
maybe four hours away if flying into Vancouver.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


At 07:50 PM 06/07/2016, you wrote:

Content-Language: en-US
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;

boundary="_000_DM3PR1101MB10877F7F869F8366848EBC8EA23B0DM3PR1101MB1087_"

Hello,

Just wondering if anybody knows this boat (Defiant - 86 C&C 41)... 
Good friend of mine (a current 35-1 owner) is seriously considering 
a trip to Vancouver from Galveston to see it and I'm just trying to 
get some background information... Any help is greatly appreciated...



http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1986/C%26C-41-2984102/Mill-Bay/Canada#.V33C8awrKUl


Cheers,
Aaron R.
Admiral Maggie,
1979 C&C 30 MK1 #540
Annapolis, MD
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2016-07-08 Thread Persuasion37 via CnC-List 
Joel

If he might be interested in an 1985 you could direct him to my website 
www.persuasion37.com
It is more of a cruiser than a racer.


Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Jul 8, 2016, at 9:58 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> The guy who bought my Pearson 28 is ready to move up and is looking for a 
> clean 1990s 34-37 footer.  He is in southern VA.
> 
> If you are thinking of selling your boat, I'd be happy to connect you.
> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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2016-07-08 Thread Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
A 1980s boat is an option!  I'll let him know.

Joel

On Fri, Jul 8, 2016 at 11:34 AM, Persuasion37 via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Joel
>
> If he might be interested in an 1985 you could direct him to my website
> www.persuasion37.com
> It is more of a cruiser than a racer.
>
>
> Mike
> PERSUASION
> C&C 37 K/CB
> Long Sault
>
> > On Jul 8, 2016, at 9:58 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >
> > The guy who bought my Pearson 28 is ready to move up and is looking for
> a clean 1990s 34-37 footer.  He is in southern VA.
> >
> > If you are thinking of selling your boat, I'd be happy to connect you.
> >
> > --
> > Joel
> > 301 541 8551
> > ___
> >
> > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>



-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Water Tank Woes

2016-07-08 Thread ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List 
If the fitting was screwed in too tight, it might have put a small crack in
the tank.  That happened to mine, and I had to replace the tank.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Fri, Jul 8, 2016 at 4:12 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Kelly,
> Have you tried replacing the fitting?
> If it's a poly fitting it could have gotten damge to the threads or
> mis-shaped somehow...
>
> Worth a shot I think.
>
> Use some good Teflon tape and maybe some kind of pipe sealer.   I used to
> use a product called 'grip' when I was worried about leaks.  It's messy
> though and is hard to break the joint later.   Also,  you don't want to use
> too much Teflon Tape on the joint.  Just a few wraps.
>
> Danny
>
>
>
> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
>
>  Original message 
> From: Harry Hallgring Jr via CnC-List 
> Date: 7/7/16 8:50 PM (GMT-05:00)
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Harry Hallgring Jr 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Water Tank Woes
>
> I have 3-20 gallon Kracor tanks and 2-23.5 gallon Nauta bladders for fresh
> water and 1-39.5 gallon Kracor tank for poop. They all perform well.
>
> Harry
> Sent from my iPhone 7 beta
>
> On Jul 7, 2016, at 20:12, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Replace it with a flex tank.  I love my flex tanks.  I don't have a single
> rigid tank on Touche'.
>
> For some reason, flex tanks don't have a strong following.  However, in
> being a member of this list for a decade and a half, I do not remember a
> single post about a failure of a flex tank.  There have been several about
> rigid tanks.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Thu, Jul 7, 2016 at 4:56 PM, kelly petew via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> One of my water tanks continues to leak and it appears to be where the
>> barbed elbow fitting exits the tank .  I've wrapped the threads with Teflon
>> tape [both pink and white], but it fails to make a good seal.  This is my
>> 3rd attempt to fix it.
>> The tank is a Kracor brand, and the tank's walls and bottom appear to be
>> quite thick.  I have observed "weeping" only right around the hole where
>> the elbow fitting is screwed into it.
>>
>> Does anyone have a suggestion?  Is there some adhesive that I can apply
>> the threads of the barbed fitting??
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Pete W.
>>
>> Siren Song
>> C&C 30-2
>> Deltaville, VA.
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Defiant - 86 C&C 41

2016-07-08 Thread Alan Liles via CnC-List 
I looked at that boat about three years ago, when it was for sale in Sydney BC. 
It was very nice with lots of new equipment. It sold very quickly and I 
thought, for a long time that I'd missed out on a good boat. I didn't do more 
than a quick once over but that boat looked good to me. Two years later I 
bought Elendil and I'm glad I waited. 

Alan Liles
SV Elendil
C&C 37+


> On Jul 6, 2016, at 7:50 PM, Aaron Rouhi via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hello,
> 
> Just wondering if anybody knows this boat (Defiant - 86 C&C 41)... Good 
> friend of mine (a current 35-1 owner) is seriously considering a trip to 
> Vancouver from Galveston to see it and I'm just trying to get some background 
> information... Any help is greatly appreciated...
> 
> 
> http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1986/C%26C-41-2984102/Mill-Bay/Canada#.V33C8awrKUl
> 
> Cheers,
> Aaron R.
> Admiral Maggie,
> 1979 C&C 30 MK1 #540
> Annapolis, MD
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 126, Issue 11

2016-07-08 Thread demojo58 via CnC-List 
Thanks Mike, I'm hoping mine connects the same way it seems there are alot of 
connection methods used I guess I'll have to pull the boat to get a good look 
at mine




Sent from Samsung tablet

 Original message 
From cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com 
Date: 07/05/2016  8:40 AM  (GMT-05:00) 
To cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject CnC-List Digest, Vol 126, Issue 11 
 
On my 36 it attaches to the boat with a bow shackle.   I had the cable made and 
then sized it at the boat using wire clamps..   

Mike C&C 36 CB 93295
Virginia Beach, VA

Sent from my iPad Mini

On Jul 4, 2016, at 16:18, demojo58 via CnC-List  wrote:




Hello, I have a cnc 32cb and my cable broke inside the hole cut out on the 
trailing edge of the centerboard does anyone know how the cable attaches to the 
board

Sent from Samsung tablet
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greatly appreciated!
Thanks all!  Guess I should not worry about it.  I'm still new and this seemed 
strange or bad.
On Jul 4, 2016 4:48 PM, "Gary Nylander via CnC-List"  
wrote:
You can add a crane to the top of the mast – some have a springy batten or 
stainless strap – some are fixed. If you race, it may cause problems with your 
handicap. Or, the simplest – just don’t haul the sail all the way up – keep it 
down an inch or so and use the Cunningham to firm up the luff. Or do what all 
the other guys have mentioned. Our J-80 was notorious for having the main hang 
on the backstay. Pain in the butt.
 
Gary
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, July 4, 2016 4:19 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Embarrassing... But sail leach hits back stay.
 
Lorne,
 
Get out the roach spray!  As others have said, not a big deal. Your main has 
some extra roach. Both of my mains do also. Wouldn't have it any other way. 
 
The only time it will be an issue is light air. Then, like others have 
suggested, give the back stay a whack, drop the traveler or ease the sheet. 
 
Some sport boats have a lot of extra roach. Look for rigs that have a spring 
crane? that lifts and pulls aft the back stay to allow the main to pass. Not 
sure if crane is the right term. 

Again a caution to all about sailing with a wire topping lift. They will chafe 
the batten pockets a you'll eject a batten. They don't float. 
 
Dennis C.
Touché 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 4, 2016, at 2:35 PM, Lorne Serpa via CnC-List  
wrote:

Just put up my main sail for the 1st time today.  I've never had a boat with a 
back stay.  On my 1988 C&C 30MKII sail hits the leach.   How's that supposed to 
work?
___

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___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

I have the same issue and what we do on light air days is lower the halyard a 
few inches and use the cunningham to tighen the luff, you are not effecting the 
foot usually. 

Tom Vincent
Frolic II C&C 36 cb
Chesapeake City, MD
I intentionally had my new main designed with less roach so that it wouldn't 
catch.
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Jul 4, 2016 6:15 PM, "Lorne Serpa via CnC-List"  
wrote:
Thanks all!  Guess I should not worry about it.  I'm still new and this seemed 
strange or bad.
On Jul 4, 2016 4:48 PM, "Gary Nylander via CnC-List"  
wrote:
You can add a crane to the top of the mast – some have a springy batten or 
stainless strap – some are fixed. If you race, it may cause problems with your 
handicap. Or, the simplest – just don’t haul the sail all the way up – keep it 
down an inch or so and use the Cunningham to firm up the luff. Or do what all 
the other guys have mentioned. Our J-80 was notorious for having the main hang 
on the backstay. Pain in the butt.
 
Gary
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, July 4, 2016 4:19 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Embarrassing... But sail leach hits back stay.
 
Lorne,
 
Get out the roach spray!  As others have said, not a big deal. Your main has 
some extra roach. Both of my mains do also. Wouldn't have it any other way. 
 
The only time it will be an issue is light air. Then, like others have 
suggested, give the back stay a whack, drop the traveler or ease the sheet. 
 
Some sport boats have a lot of extra roach. Look for rigs that have a spring 
crane? that lifts and pulls aft the back stay to

Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 126, Issue 10

2016-07-08 Thread demojo58 via CnC-List 
Thanks Mike dont know if I have the same set up as I have never noticed a bolt 
coming thru my cb although the top of my cable has a swaged fitting with a hole 
where the rope connects to it

John cnc 32 
Pasadena Md.




Sent from Samsung tablet

 Original message 
From cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com 
Date: 07/04/2016  5:41 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject CnC-List Digest, Vol 126, Issue 10 
 



Hello, I have a cnc 32cb and my cable broke inside the hole cut out on the 
trailing edge of the centerboard does anyone know how the cable attaches to the 
board

Sent from Samsung tablet
Just put up my main sail for the 1st time today.  I've never had a boat with a 
back stay.  On my 1988 C&C 30MKII sail hits the leach.   How's that supposed to 
work?

The wind should push the leach past the backstay.  If not you can usually shake 
the backstay (fore and aft) and the addition of wind will push the leach past.  
Otherwise, just let the traveler down.

Keep and eye on the leach for wear.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Jul 4, 2016 3:36 PM, "Lorne Serpa via CnC-List"  
wrote:
Just put up my main sail for the 1st time today.  I've never had a boat with a 
back stay.  On my 1988 C&C 30MKII sail hits the leach.   How's that supposed to 
work?


___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Are you sure it's hitting the backstay, or is it hitting the (main boom) 
topping lift?  It's relatively common for topping lifts to interfere with main 
leeches.  After raising the main you need to ease the topping lift enough for 
the leech to clear it.  If you get a rigid vang you don't need a topping lift, 
and they are generally a PITA.  But if your boat didn't have a backstay, its 
mast would fall over forward.

Cheers,
Randy

From: "Lorne Serpa via CnC-List" 
To: "cnc-list" 
Cc: "Lorne Serpa" 
Sent: Monday, July 4, 2016 1:35:35 PM
Subject: Stus-List Embarrassing... But sail leach hits back stay.

Just put up my main sail for the 1st time today.  I've never had a boat with a 
back stay.  On my 1988 C&C 30MKII sail hits the leach.   How's that supposed to 
work?


___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

When the main is full, the leach probably won't hit the back-stay.  If it does, 
it will get past the back-stay when you tack, except in very light air.  In 
that case, you might have to let out the traveler, or as a last resort, lower 
the sail until it clears, and then raise it.  Another thing you can do, is 
tighten the back-stay.  That will pull the top of the mast back, giving you 
more clearance.  Mine is the same way.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Mon, Jul 4, 2016 at 12:35 PM, Lorne Serpa via CnC-List 
 wrote:
Just put up my main sail for the 1st time today.  I've never had a boat with a 
back stay.  On my 1988 C&C 30MKII sail hits the leach.   How's that supposed to 
work?


___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!


Lorne,

Get out the roach spray!  As others have said, not a big deal. Your main has 
some extra roach. Both of my mains do also. Wouldn't have it any other way. 

The only time it will be an issue is light air. Then, like others have 
suggested, give the back stay a whack, drop the traveler or ease the sheet. 

Some sport boats have a lot of extra roach. Look for rigs that have a spring 
crane? that lifts and pulls aft the back stay to allow the main to pass. Not 
sure if crane is the right term. 

Again a caution to all about sailing with a wire topping lift. They will chafe 
the batten pockets a you'll eject a batten. They don't float. 

Dennis C.
Touché 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 4, 2016, at 2:35 PM, Lorne Serpa via CnC-List  
wrote:

Just put up my main sail for the 1st time today.  I've never had a boat with a 
back stay.  On my 1988 C&C 30MKII sail hits the leach.   How's that supposed to 
work?

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!
You can add a crane to the top of the mast – some have a springy batten or 
stainless strap – some are fixed. If you race, it may cause problems with your 
handicap. Or, the simplest – just don’t haul the sail all the way up – keep it 
down an inch or so and use the Cunningham to firm up the luff. Or do what all 
the ot

Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 126, Issue 10

2016-07-08 Thread Rjcasciato via CnC-List 
Why is anyone still reading emails posted on the digest without a subject
heading?  I automatically delete such postings.

 

Ron C.

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of demojo58
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, July 08, 2016 1:51 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: demojo58
Subject: Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 126, Issue 10

 

Thanks Mike dont know if I have the same set up as I have never noticed a
bolt coming thru my cb although the top of my cable has a swaged fitting
with a hole where the rope connects to it

 

John cnc 32 

Pasadena Md.

 

 

 

 

Sent from Samsung tablet




 Original message 
>From cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com 
Date: 07/04/2016 5:41 PM (GMT-05:00) 
To cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject CnC-List Digest, Vol 126, Issue 10 



 

 

 

Hello, I have a cnc 32cb and my cable broke inside the hole cut out on the
trailing edge of the centerboard does anyone know how the cable attaches to
the board

 

Sent from Samsung tablet

Just put up my main sail for the 1st time today.  I've never had a boat with
a back stay.  On my 1988 C&C 30MKII sail hits the leach.   How's that
supposed to work? 

The wind should push the leach past the backstay.  If not you can usually
shake the backstay (fore and aft) and the addition of wind will push the
leach past.  Otherwise, just let the traveler down.

Keep and eye on the leach for wear. 

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Jul 4, 2016 3:36 PM, "Lorne Serpa via CnC-List" 
wrote:

Just put up my main sail for the 1st time today.  I've never had a boat with
a back stay.  On my 1988 C&C 30MKII sail hits the leach.   How's that
supposed to work? 


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions
are greatly appreciated!

Are you sure it's hitting the backstay, or is it hitting the (main boom)
topping lift?  It's relatively common for topping lifts to interfere with
main leeches.  After raising the main you need to ease the topping lift
enough for the leech to clear it.  If you get a rigid vang you don't need a
topping lift, and they are generally a PITA.  But if your boat didn't have a
backstay, its mast would fall over forward.

 

Cheers,

Randy

 

  _  

From: "Lorne Serpa via CnC-List" 
To: "cnc-list" 
Cc: "Lorne Serpa" 
Sent: Monday, July 4, 2016 1:35:35 PM
Subject: Stus-List Embarrassing... But sail leach hits back stay.

 

Just put up my main sail for the 1st time today.  I've never had a boat with
a back stay.  On my 1988 C&C 30MKII sail hits the leach.   How's that
supposed to work?


___

 

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions
are greatly appreciated!

 

When the main is full, the leach probably won't hit the back-stay.  If it
does, it will get past the back-stay when you tack, except in very light
air.  In that case, you might have to let out the traveler, or as a last
resort, lower the sail until it clears, and then raise it.  Another thing
you can do, is tighten the back-stay.  That will pull the top of the mast
back, giving you more clearance.  Mine is the same way.

Alan Bergen

35 Mk III Thirsty

Rose City YC

Portland, OR

 

On Mon, Jul 4, 2016 at 12:35 PM, Lorne Serpa via CnC-List
 wrote:

Just put up my main sail for the 1st time today.  I've never had a boat with
a back stay.  On my 1988 C&C 30MKII sail hits the leach.   How's that
supposed to work? 


___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions
are greatly appreciated!

 

Lorne,

 

Get out the roach spray!  As others have said, not a big deal. Your main has
some extra roach. Both of my mains do also. Wouldn't have it any other way. 

 

The only time it will be an issue is light air. Then, like others have
suggested, give the back stay a whack, drop the traveler or ease the sheet. 

 

Some sport boats have a lot of extra roach. Look for rigs that have a spring
crane? that lifts and pulls aft the back stay to allow the main to pass. Not
sure if crane is the right term. 

Again a caution to all about sailing with a wire topping lift. They will
chafe the batten pockets a you'll eject a batten. They don't float. 

 

Dennis C.

Touché 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA


Sent from my iPhone


On Jul 4, 2016, at 2:35 PM, Lorne Serpa via CnC-List 
wrote:

Just put up my main sail for the 1st time today.  I've never had a boat with
a back stay.  On my 1988 C&C 30MKII sail hits the leach.   How's that
supposed to work? 

___

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what we d

Re: Stus-List Defiant - 86 C&C 41

2016-07-08 Thread Aaron Rouhi via CnC-List 
Thanks!


Cheers,
Aaron R.
Admiral Maggie,
1979 C&C 30 MK1 #540
Annapolis, MD



From: CnC-List  on behalf of Alan Liles via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, July 8, 2016 12:25 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Alan Liles
Subject: Re: Stus-List Defiant - 86 C&C 41

I looked at that boat about three years ago, when it was for sale in Sydney BC. 
It was very nice with lots of new equipment. It sold very quickly and I 
thought, for a long time that I'd missed out on a good boat. I didn't do more 
than a quick once over but that boat looked good to me. Two years later I 
bought Elendil and I'm glad I waited.

Alan Liles
SV Elendil
C&C 37+

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Re: Stus-List Defiant - 86 C&C 41

2016-07-08 Thread Aaron Rouhi via CnC-List 
Great tip. I'll let him know... Thanks!


Cheers,
Aaron R.
Admiral Maggie,
1979 C&C 30 MK1 #540
Annapolis, MD



From: CnC-List  on behalf of Russ & Melody via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, July 8, 2016 10:45 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Russ & Melody
Subject: Re: Stus-List Defiant - 86 C&C 41


Hi Aaron,

Your friend should confirm with the broker the location of the boat so there is 
no surprise when he gets there. It's listed as Mill Bay, which is some  hundred 
dollars CND (so what's that 50 USD? :) and maybe four hours away if flying into 
Vancouver.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 126, Issue 30

2016-07-08 Thread Pat MacDonald via CnC-List 
Thanks Al
And that has been the goal.. get a team together and practice, practice,
practice.
That Greg Cutter must have been VERY good as that number 141 seems to come
mostly from his old racing numbers.
Oh well.. sure having a blast with this boat.   
Pat 



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
Sent: July-08-16 7:58 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 126, Issue 30

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Stus-List What happened to the USSailing PHRF list?

2016-07-08 Thread Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
Does anyone know if the US Sailing PHRF comprehensive list has been taken
down? I have used it many times and now cannot find it.

 

Thanks, Gary Nylander

Maryland

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Re: Stus-List Water Tank Woes

2016-07-08 Thread mike amirault via CnC-List 
My Plastimo tank failed in the first year. Fitting at the inlet cracked open. 
They did replace it under warranty and so far so good one year later.___

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Stus-List Where to run reefing line? 1988 C&C 30MKII.

2016-07-08 Thread Lorne Serpa via CnC-List 
The reefing line is run from the end of the boom to the clutch.  However,
it is not attached to the sail clue. I have a second reef eye in the sail,
but no reefing line in the boom and an empty 2nd reefing line clutch.
Where and how should the 1st reefing line attach?  On my 15' Potter,  it
went from the boom,  through the sail clue and back to a fixed spot on the
boom.   This gave a 2:1 purchase I think.  Should the C&C be the same way?
Or,  does it simply attach to the reef clue with a shackel or similar?
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Re: Stus-List Where to run reefing line? 1988 C&C 30MKII.

2016-07-08 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List 

Hi Lorne,

First of all, we have no clue why you are calling 
your mains'l clew a clue.  Ha ha, that was just fun.


Seriously, the first reef is similar to the 
Potter except a bowline around the boom below 
where the cringle lands is good. It's less hardware (a padeye) that might fail.


The second reef is similar to the first, the line 
typically goes from the bowline tied around the 
boom below where the cringle lands, through the 
sail and back down to a turning block (often a 
foot block but could also be a block mounted on a 
track for "set & forget" adjustment") instead of 
the boom end sheave and forward to the clutch. 
This block is positioned aft enough to give a 45 
degree angled pull in set condition.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 04:30 PM 08/07/2016, you wrote:

The reefing line is run from the end of the boom 
to the clutch.  However,  it is not attached 
to the sail clue. I have a second reef eye in 
the sail,  but no reefing line in the boom and 
an empty 2nd reefing line clutch.
Where and how should the 1st reefing line 
attach?  On my 15' Potter,  it went from the 
boom,  through the sail clue and back to a 
fixed spot on the boom.   This gave a 2:1 
purchase I think.  Should the C&C be the same 
way?  Or,  does it simply attach to the reef clue with a shackel or similar?

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Re: Stus-List Water Tank Woes

2016-07-08 Thread Mike Brannon via CnC-List 
Give Kracor a call.   When I had a problem with one of my tanks they were very 
helpful.   The tank had a crack at the threads and  I was able to repair it 
using their instructions


Mike 
Virginia Lee, C&C 36 CB. 93295
Virginia Beach, VA

Sent from my iPad Mini

> On Jul 8, 2016, at 11:47, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> If the fitting was screwed in too tight, it might have put a small crack in 
> the tank.  That happened to mine, and I had to replace the tank.
> 
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
> 
>> On Fri, Jul 8, 2016 at 4:12 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Kelly,
>> Have you tried replacing the fitting?
>> If it's a poly fitting it could have gotten damge to the threads or 
>> mis-shaped somehow...
>> 
>> Worth a shot I think. 
>> 
>> Use some good Teflon tape and maybe some kind of pipe sealer.   I used to 
>> use a product called 'grip' when I was worried about leaks.  It's messy 
>> though and is hard to break the joint later.   Also,  you don't want to use 
>> too much Teflon Tape on the joint.  Just a few wraps.   
>> 
>> Danny 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
>> 
>>  Original message 
>> From: Harry Hallgring Jr via CnC-List 
>> Date: 7/7/16 8:50 PM (GMT-05:00)
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: Harry Hallgring Jr 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Water Tank Woes
>> 
>> I have 3-20 gallon Kracor tanks and 2-23.5 gallon Nauta bladders for fresh 
>> water and 1-39.5 gallon Kracor tank for poop. They all perform well. 
>> 
>> Harry
>> Sent from my iPhone 7 beta
>> 
>>> On Jul 7, 2016, at 20:12, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Replace it with a flex tank.  I love my flex tanks.  I don't have a single 
>>> rigid tank on Touche'.
>>> 
>>> For some reason, flex tanks don't have a strong following.  However, in 
>>> being a member of this list for a decade and a half, I do not remember a 
>>> single post about a failure of a flex tank.  There have been several about 
>>> rigid tanks.
>>> 
>>> Dennis C.
>>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>>> Mandeville, LA
>>> 
 On Thu, Jul 7, 2016 at 4:56 PM, kelly petew via CnC-List 
  wrote:
 One of my water tanks continues to leak and it appears to be where the 
 barbed elbow fitting exits the tank .  I've wrapped the threads with 
 Teflon tape [both pink and white], but it fails to make a good seal.  This 
 is my 3rd attempt to fix it. 
 The tank is a Kracor brand, and the tank's walls and bottom appear to be 
 quite thick.  I have observed "weeping" only right around the hole where 
 the elbow fitting is screwed into it.
  
 Does anyone have a suggestion?  Is there some adhesive that I can apply 
 the threads of the barbed fitting??
  
 Thanks,
  
 Pete W.
  
 Siren Song
 C&C 30-2
 Deltaville, VA. 
 
 ___
 
 This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
 like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All 
 Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
>>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All 
>>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
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>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
> 
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> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List What happened to the USSailing PHRF list?

2016-07-08 Thread Michael Brown via CnC-List 
Yes, there is a 2016 list.

They may be doing something different with the list this year.
This note came through in our PHRF-LO newsletter:

>From a statistical standpoint, USSailing determined that the ‘high,’ ‘low,’ & 
>‘mean’
data were inadequate for establishing the most accurate PHRF rating and it was
decided to discontinue issuing that as guidance. Instead, identify the fleet in 
the Red,
White, & Blue book that has conditions most like your fleet and use their data
for a particular boat as your starting point.

I have the 2016 list and the intro document, which contains this:

Base Handicaps

In this section are tables giving the base handicaps for stock series produced 
models asreported by Member Fleets.
The list contains all handicaps reported before early February of 2014.
The tables are in alphabetic sequence by model name.  Under each model name, 
the PHRF fleet reporting a handicap
for that model appears first, the seconds-per-mile handicap appears second, the 
“experience” code third, the year of
the latest update to the handicap information fourth, followed by the total 
number of boats issued that handicap during
the past season.  In cases where no year is shown, the handicap was last 
adjusted prior to 1988.

“Experience” codes reflect each Fleet’s observation al experience in 
handicapping each model.

The codes can be understood as:

A = initial handicap
B = up to one season of experience
C = beyond one season of experience 

I can email you the PDFs if that would help.

Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1


Date: Fri, 8 Jul 2016 19:02:09 -0400 
From: "Gary Nylander"  
To: "CandC List"  
Subject: Stus-List What happened to the USSailing PHRF list? 
Message-ID: <01d1d96c$cecef4e0$6c6cdea0$@atlanticbb.net> 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" 
 
Does anyone know if the US Sailing PHRF comprehensive list has been taken 
down? I have used it many times and now cannot find it. 
 
Thanks, Gary Nylander 
 
Maryland 
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Re: Stus-List Where to run reefing line? 1988 C&C 30MKII.

2016-07-08 Thread Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
Yep, what Russ said.  I would only add that the bowline should not be
around the boom but rather around the standing part of the line that is
going around the boom.  This creates a bowline on a bite, a sort of slip
know that will tighten down on the boom.  This ensures that when you reef
you'll get the clew as close as possible to the boom.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Jul 8, 2016 7:31 PM, "Lorne Serpa via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> The reefing line is run from the end of the boom to the clutch.  However,
> it is not attached to the sail clue. I have a second reef eye in the sail,
> but no reefing line in the boom and an empty 2nd reefing line clutch.
> Where and how should the 1st reefing line attach?  On my 15' Potter,  it
> went from the boom,  through the sail clue and back to a fixed spot on the
> boom.   This gave a 2:1 purchase I think.  Should the C&C be the same way?
> Or,  does it simply attach to the reef clue with a shackel or similar?
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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