Re: Stus-List Prop purchase
I have a 2 blade variprofile on my 33-2. You can feel the boat surge forward
when it feathers, usually picking up between .5 and .75 knots of boat speed.
Cheers,Doug
Celtic Knot33-2 cb
On Sunday, January 8, 2017 8:24 PM, Ainslie via CnC-List
wrote:
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div.yiv6222731626Section1 {}#yiv6222731626 Hi Chuck, I mounted a brand-new
Flexofold 2-bladeprop on my 35-3, Spirit, last spring. It was replacing a
3-blade fixed that wasstill in great shape, but I couldn’t stand the thought of
the drag! Rightfrom the start with the 2-blade, I noticed a vibration at around
19 to 2100rpm, where the 3-blade fixed was smooth through the whole range. I
didn’tnotice a drop in speed; it will easily push the boat past 7.5 kts.
However, Idoubt it would have had the torque of our 3-blade when we were
motoring up St. ClairRiver against that current on our delivery voyage. The
main benefit I was looking for in afolding prop is speed. When you cut the
motor and put the tranny in reverse,you can watch on the speedo as the boat
glides ahead a full half-knot faster. So,if I get a half-knot after folding the
2-blade, imagine the drag of a fixed3-blade, up to a knot? My conclusion is
that going to a folding blade was agood move. Some future year when I plan to
cruise Lake Superior , I won’t be in any hurry and I’ll probablyopt for the
3-blade then. Happy New Year! Jason From:CnC-List
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck Saur via CnC-List
Sent: January-01-17 2:08 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Chuck Saur
Subject: Stus-List Prop purchase Happy New Year sailors! Made the mistake
of visiting the boatthis week. I know this rekindles an older discussion...but
do any of you35-3 owners have experience with purchase and performance of a
Flex-O-Foldprop? I looked in archives and noted some intent to purchase this
brand,but no testimony or stated experience that I could find. Putting
together our wish list, and it includes new 110% jib, foldingprop,
stoppers/organizers, mast-base blocks, main sheet blocks,batteries. Gawd, I
need to win a lottery... Discussion/testimony desired!! It's cold here!
Chuck Saur Morning Sky C&C 35-3 In the shed till May...
___
This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___
This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Prop purchase
Hi Chuck, I mounted a brand-new Flexofold 2-blade prop on my 35-3, Spirit, last spring. It was replacing a 3-blade fixed that was still in great shape, but I couldn't stand the thought of the drag! Right from the start with the 2-blade, I noticed a vibration at around 19 to 2100 rpm, where the 3-blade fixed was smooth through the whole range. I didn't notice a drop in speed; it will easily push the boat past 7.5 kts. However, I doubt it would have had the torque of our 3-blade when we were motoring up St. Clair River against that current on our delivery voyage. The main benefit I was looking for in a folding prop is speed. When you cut the motor and put the tranny in reverse, you can watch on the speedo as the boat glides ahead a full half-knot faster. So, if I get a half-knot after folding the 2-blade, imagine the drag of a fixed 3-blade, up to a knot? My conclusion is that going to a folding blade was a good move. Some future year when I plan to cruise Lake Superior, I won't be in any hurry and I'll probably opt for the 3-blade then. Happy New Year! Jason _ From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck Saur via CnC-List Sent: January-01-17 2:08 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Chuck Saur Subject: Stus-List Prop purchase Happy New Year sailors! Made the mistake of visiting the boat this week. I know this rekindles an older discussion...but do any of you 35-3 owners have experience with purchase and performance of a Flex-O-Fold prop? I looked in archives and noted some intent to purchase this brand, but no testimony or stated experience that I could find. Putting together our wish list, and it includes new 110% jib, folding prop, stoppers/organizers, mast-base blocks, main sheet blocks, batteries. Gawd, I need to win a lottery... Discussion/testimony desired!! It's cold here! Chuck Saur Morning Sky C&C 35-3 In the shed till May... ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Pulling rod chainplate backing block on LF38
Thanks. I'll try the vinegar technique. I also have some BoatLife Release, but was hesitant to try that because the seam will be difficult to inject into, and the Release chemical is fairly toxic I believe. I have no leaking from above deck, so I probably won't be able to inject anything from above. I'm only opening / inspecting to confirm it's not leaking, and because I have the mast out now. I too had some white dust float down when I loosened the threaded rod. I'll try tapping up on the bolts too. On Sun, Jan 8, 2017 at 9:19 AM, Bruno Lachance wrote: > Patrick, > > I have faced the same kind of problem on my boat. It is not exactly the > same style of chainplate, but the 33 mkII does have the same aluminum > backing block, and it was not moving. I initially tried the wedge, the > hammer... With no success. There was some white powder visible, sign of > aluminum corrosion. I finally had success with white vinegar, injected with > a syringe where I can, from the top of the deck and from below, and a > soaked rag taped around the block. I repeated this procedure twice and > wait... The day after, I was able to separate everything with a small tap > on the bolt, clean and reassemble with good quality butyl. I was happy to > find that the core was not exposed around the chainplate. > > Good luck. > > Bruno Lachance > Becassine, 1987 33mkII > New- Richmond, Qc. > > > Envoyé de mon iPad > > Le 8 janv. 2017 à 11:45, Patrick Davin via CnC-List > a écrit : > > Anyone have experience pulling this style of chainplate? Photo uploaded > here: https://svviolethour.com/chainplate/ > > Wally's site also has a good picture of one once it's open: > http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/newrig/cplates/cplates.htm > > Wally says his were bedded in silicone, which probably made it really easy > to pull, but mine don't appear to be silicone - some white sealant/adhesive > which I'm afraid might be 4200 or in the worst case 5200. The backing block > is adhered to the fiberglass deck undersurface, and to the bolts of the > U-bolt. > > But mostly it's hard to pull because the block has nothing good to grip > on, and it's in a tight location with bulkheads / cabinetry blocking access > to two sides. > > Anyone have tips for how they did it? Did the backing block come off > easily, or were there some tricks / gotchas? > > I've tried: vice grips, flathead screwdrivers used as wedges and hammered > on the end, heat gun, pulling up on the U-bolt above deck, and trying to > pull down the backing block using the threaded rod itself (over-tensioning > it - I stopped this before it got too scary - don't want to break it). > > The next things I can try are: torch (stronger than a heat gun for melting > glue, but I don't want to burn the fiberglass or set something on fire). > More hammering on wedges. > > -Patrick > 1984 C&C LF38 > > ___ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you > wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated! > > ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Pulling rod chainplate backing block on LF38
Patrick, Have you tried to remove the U bolt first Put the nuts back on the U bolt but not touching the block. Hit the nuts with a hammer alternating sides each hit. Once the U bolt breaks free you can tap it all the way out with a drift or pull it out from up on deck. If the block is still stuck to the liner, tap the side close to one end to get it to rotate on the rod, this should break the sealant bond and allow it to drop free. Good Luck Rick Taillieu Shearwater Yacht Club Halifax, NS. From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Patrick Davin via CnC-List Sent: January-08-17 12:44 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Patrick Davin Subject: Stus-List Pulling rod chainplate backing block on LF38 Anyone have experience pulling this style of chainplate? Photo uploaded here: https://svviolethour.com/chainplate/ Wally's site also has a good picture of one once it's open: http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/newrig/cplates/cplates.htm Wally says his were bedded in silicone, which probably made it really easy to pull, but mine don't appear to be silicone - some white sealant/adhesive which I'm afraid might be 4200 or in the worst case 5200. The backing block is adhered to the fiberglass deck undersurface, and to the bolts of the U-bolt. But mostly it's hard to pull because the block has nothing good to grip on, and it's in a tight location with bulkheads / cabinetry blocking access to two sides. Anyone have tips for how they did it? Did the backing block come off easily, or were there some tricks / gotchas? I've tried: vice grips, flathead screwdrivers used as wedges and hammered on the end, heat gun, pulling up on the U-bolt above deck, and trying to pull down the backing block using the threaded rod itself (over-tensioning it - I stopped this before it got too scary - don't want to break it). The next things I can try are: torch (stronger than a heat gun for melting glue, but I don't want to burn the fiberglass or set something on fire). More hammering on wedges. -Patrick 1984 C&C LF38 ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Pulling rod chainplate backing block on LF38
Patrick, I have faced the same kind of problem on my boat. It is not exactly the same style of chainplate, but the 33 mkII does have the same aluminum backing block, and it was not moving. I initially tried the wedge, the hammer... With no success. There was some white powder visible, sign of aluminum corrosion. I finally had success with white vinegar, injected with a syringe where I can, from the top of the deck and from below, and a soaked rag taped around the block. I repeated this procedure twice and wait... The day after, I was able to separate everything with a small tap on the bolt, clean and reassemble with good quality butyl. I was happy to find that the core was not exposed around the chainplate. Good luck. Bruno Lachance Becassine, 1987 33mkII New- Richmond, Qc. Envoyé de mon iPad Le 8 janv. 2017 à 11:45, Patrick Davin via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> a écrit : Anyone have experience pulling this style of chainplate? Photo uploaded here: https://svviolethour.com/chainplate/ Wally's site also has a good picture of one once it's open: http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/newrig/cplates/cplates.htm Wally says his were bedded in silicone, which probably made it really easy to pull, but mine don't appear to be silicone - some white sealant/adhesive which I'm afraid might be 4200 or in the worst case 5200. The backing block is adhered to the fiberglass deck undersurface, and to the bolts of the U-bolt. But mostly it's hard to pull because the block has nothing good to grip on, and it's in a tight location with bulkheads / cabinetry blocking access to two sides. Anyone have tips for how they did it? Did the backing block come off easily, or were there some tricks / gotchas? I've tried: vice grips, flathead screwdrivers used as wedges and hammered on the end, heat gun, pulling up on the U-bolt above deck, and trying to pull down the backing block using the threaded rod itself (over-tensioning it - I stopped this before it got too scary - don't want to break it). The next things I can try are: torch (stronger than a heat gun for melting glue, but I don't want to burn the fiberglass or set something on fire). More hammering on wedges. -Patrick 1984 C&C LF38 ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Stus-List Pulling rod chainplate backing block on LF38
Anyone have experience pulling this style of chainplate? Photo uploaded here: https://svviolethour.com/chainplate/ Wally's site also has a good picture of one once it's open: http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/newrig/cplates/cplates.htm Wally says his were bedded in silicone, which probably made it really easy to pull, but mine don't appear to be silicone - some white sealant/adhesive which I'm afraid might be 4200 or in the worst case 5200. The backing block is adhered to the fiberglass deck undersurface, and to the bolts of the U-bolt. But mostly it's hard to pull because the block has nothing good to grip on, and it's in a tight location with bulkheads / cabinetry blocking access to two sides. Anyone have tips for how they did it? Did the backing block come off easily, or were there some tricks / gotchas? I've tried: vice grips, flathead screwdrivers used as wedges and hammered on the end, heat gun, pulling up on the U-bolt above deck, and trying to pull down the backing block using the threaded rod itself (over-tensioning it - I stopped this before it got too scary - don't want to break it). The next things I can try are: torch (stronger than a heat gun for melting glue, but I don't want to burn the fiberglass or set something on fire). More hammering on wedges. -Patrick 1984 C&C LF38 ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
