Re: Stus-List The notorious C&C smile

[Gary Smith via CnC-List]

Did this problem affect all C&C's? I have a 1976 Landfall 42 and so far no
sign of it ... Touch wood.

On 17 Jul 2017 8:12 pm, "Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> The C&C smile?  I have one every time I walk down the pier and see Touche'.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Raymarine Autopilot Question - spinnaker reach

[Dave S via CnC-List]

OK, thanks Fred, my money stays in my pocket.   So, its about balancing the
rig as much as possible as Joel reinforces.   Thinking about this now, I
was sailing on a broad reach with the wind well aft and the spin partly
blanketed by the main.  Holding a tight course by hand was easy, and the
boat felt fine, more or less in balance and sailing fast.  A small yaw to
weather required a quick correction as the boat heeled, the spin became
more exposed.   No issue at all by hand, however the autopilot could not
keep up with or correct Windstar's desire perform a slow and graceful
broach.  Sound familiar?

Dave





On 17 July 2017 at 21:36, Frederick G Street  wrote:

> Dave — the pre-EVO Raymarine pilots definitely did much better with the
> rudder transducer; it was pretty much required.  The EVO pilots do pretty
> well without it, so it’s not as much of an issue.
>
> As far as a below-deck pilot goes, they tend to be more powerful and
> robust, and will be steadier in most conditions.  But they’re also much
> more expensive and complicated to install; they’re really meant for boats
> 35 feet and up, with higher displacement than ours.  And in the case, say,
> of my Landfall 38, they’re a stone-cold bugger to install, as the access to
> the steering gear is pretty bad and the space is limited.
>
> — Fred
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
>
> On Jul 17, 2017, at 8:16 PM, Dave S  wrote:
>
> Thanks gentlemen, I suspected as much.   this does limit the use of the
> pilot at speed.  (Sad face)  A learning adventure.
>
>  Fred, what performance advantage is gained in boats like ours (ev100
> wheelpilot in my case on a 33-2). with the installation of a rudder
> position sensor?  I single hand and use the pilot a lot but I'm not 100%
> happy with it.
>
> Should I  have sprung for the below decks drive rather than the
>  wheelpilot - does it respond faster, as Joel's response may indicate?
> Thanks!
> Dave
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List 1980 C&C 30 headliner removal + the notorious C&C smile

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Chris,
It is possible to perform an ultrasonic test on the keel bolts.  Cost I got
was about $1200.  Can try to dig up info if that would help you.
Ron

On Jul 16, 2017 2:15 PM, "Chris Hobson via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Curious how involved removing the cabin headliner is on a 1980 C&C MK1
> would like to get access to replace/re-bed a bunch of things including the
> grab rails.
>
> Also, a common question I’m sure that gets asked a lot with C&Cs, but is
> it typical for most of this vintage to have the C&C “smile” at the keel?
> Obviously a good grounding would cause it. I’ve checked the keel bolts and
> they look good and clean with no signs of stress from inside the bilge, and
> no water. Will be hauling out soon for a closer look owner says it has the
> “usual smile." I’ve heard of owners who dropped the keel to check bolts for
> corrosion. I got rough estimates for this at around 4k. Pretty expensive
> price tag for some piece of mind.
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Re: Stus-List Cautionary Tale

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

I had a similar experience last year, and posted it on this list. In my case 
the zincs kept the shaft in the boat. Don't ask me how, but my mechanic knows 
how to get the hub off the shaft to change the cutlass bearing without pulling 
the tranny.
Dan SheerPegathyLF 38 Rock Creek off the Patapsco


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Re: Stus-List Raymarine Autopilot Question - spinnaker reach

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Dave — the pre-EVO Raymarine pilots definitely did much better with the rudder 
transducer; it was pretty much required.  The EVO pilots do pretty well without 
it, so it’s not as much of an issue.

As far as a below-deck pilot goes, they tend to be more powerful and robust, 
and will be steadier in most conditions.  But they’re also much more expensive 
and complicated to install; they’re really meant for boats 35 feet and up, with 
higher displacement than ours.  And in the case, say, of my Landfall 38, 
they’re a stone-cold bugger to install, as the access to the steering gear is 
pretty bad and the space is limited.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Jul 17, 2017, at 8:16 PM, Dave S  wrote:
> 
> Thanks gentlemen, I suspected as much.   this does limit the use of the pilot 
> at speed.  (Sad face)  A learning adventure. 
> 
>  Fred, what performance advantage is gained in boats like ours (ev100 
> wheelpilot in my case on a 33-2). with the installation of a rudder position 
> sensor?  I single hand and use the pilot a lot but I'm not 100% happy with 
> it.  
> 
> Should I  have sprung for the below decks drive rather than the  wheelpilot - 
> does it respond faster, as Joel's response may indicate?
> Thanks!
> Dave

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Re: Stus-List Raymarine Autopilot Question - spinnaker reach

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Thanks gentlemen, I suspected as much.   this does limit the use of the pilot 
at speed.  (Sad face)  A learning adventure. 

 Fred, what performance advantage is gained in boats like ours (ev100 
wheelpilot in my case on a 33-2). with the installation of a rudder position 
sensor?  I single hand and use the pilot a lot but I'm not 100% happy with it.  

Should I  have sprung for the below decks drive rather than the  wheelpilot - 
does it respond faster, as Joel's response may indicate?
Thanks!
Dave 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 17, 2017, at 8:14 PM, Frederick G Street  wrote:
> 
> Joel’s absolutely right — downwind is the hardest point of sail for any 
> autopilot to manage.  And Edd, you need to keep in mind that, as I recall, 
> the maximum displacement for that wheel pilot is about 16,500 lbs and your 
> boat is about 16,000 lbs., making it right on the edge for being able to 
> manage anyway.
> 
> — Fred
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
> 
>> On Jul 17, 2017, at 3:27 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Dave, 
>> 
>> yes.  The wheel pilot is great with a balanced helm.  If the boat rounds up 
>> in a puff it won't handle it.  If hand steering is difficult then a wheel 
>> pilot is worse.
>> 
>> Joel
> 
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Re: Stus-List Raymarine Autopilot Question - spinnaker reach

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Joel’s absolutely right — downwind is the hardest point of sail for any 
autopilot to manage.  And Edd, you need to keep in mind that, as I recall, the 
maximum displacement for that wheel pilot is about 16,500 lbs and your boat is 
about 16,000 lbs., making it right on the edge for being able to manage anyway.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Jul 17, 2017, at 3:27 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Dave, 
> 
> yes.  The wheel pilot is great with a balanced helm.  If the boat rounds up 
> in a puff it won't handle it.  If hand steering is difficult then a wheel 
> pilot is worse.
> 
> Joel

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Re: Stus-List 1980 C&C 30 headliner removal + the notorious C&C smile

[Aaron Rouhi via CnC-List]

I agree with Gary. I have replaced all of my grab rails initially and just 
re-bedded them this past April. No need to remove the liner at all... For other 
hardware, I have appropriate sized holes in the liner which are covered with 
stainless plugs...

Aaron
79 30-1
Admiral Maggie
Annapolis, MD

_
From: Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Monday, July 17, 2017 1:54 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1980 C&C 30 headliner removal + the notorious C&C smile
To: mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Gary Nylander mailto:gnylan...@atlanticbb.net>>


I have never even considered removing the headliner on my 1980 30-1. The grab 
rails are attached on the lower side of the headliner, so you don't have to 
remove it. I have been able to get at everything else with fish tapes from the 
little panels.

On the smile, we all have one. If the bolts look good and there are no leaks, 
and if you are concerned, then grind it out and put a band of cloth around it, 
fill and fair it and it should be OK. Mine has just been filled a few times, 
and I make sure it is fresh each year. Sometimes it is a bit larger, sometimes 
it lasts without re-cracking. If I get ambitious, I would do the band approach, 
but after 24 years, I am not concerned. No water and no corrosion.

Good luck.

Gary Nylander
#593

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chris Hobson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, July 16, 2017 2:14 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Chris Hobson mailto:ch...@hobsonbuildsco.com>>
Subject: Stus-List 1980 C&C 30 headliner removal + the notorious C&C smile

Curious how involved removing the cabin headliner is on a 1980 C&C MK1 would 
like to get access to replace/re-bed a bunch of things including the grab rails.

Also, a common question I’m sure that gets asked a lot with C&Cs, but is it 
typical for most of this vintage to have the C&C “smile” at the keel? Obviously 
a good grounding would cause it. I’ve checked the keel bolts and they look good 
and clean with no signs of stress from inside the bilge, and no water. Will be 
hauling out soon for a closer look owner says it has the “usual smile." I’ve 
heard of owners who dropped the keel to check bolts for corrosion. I got rough 
estimates for this at around 4k. Pretty expensive price tag for some piece of 
mind.


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___

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___

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Re: Stus-List The notorious C&C smile

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

I'm the same way with Peregrine!

Andrew Burton
61 West Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI 
USA 02840

+401 965 5260


> On Jul 17, 2017, at 14:11, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> The C&C smile?  I have one every time I walk down the pier and see Touche'.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

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Re: Stus-List Raymarine Autopilot Question - spinnaker reach

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Dave,

yes.  The wheel pilot is great with a balanced helm.  If the boat rounds up
in a puff it won't handle it.  If hand steering is difficult then a wheel
pilot is worse.

Joel

On Sun, Jul 16, 2017 at 9:22 PM, Dave via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Next wheelpilot question - mine cannot reliably steer at higher speeds off
> the wind with my asymmetrical set .  It ends up yawing and eventually
> overpowered.  Hand steering requires precision in these conditions but is
> not difficult.  Am I expecting too much?
> Thx.   Dave, 33-2
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Jul 16, 2017, at 6:06 PM, jackbrennan 
> wrote:
>
> Check the belt. My autopilot acted like that when the belt was shot.
>
> Jack Brennan
> Former C&C 25
> Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
> Tierra Verde, Fl.
>
>
>
>
> Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|PRO
>
>
>  Original message 
> From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List
> Date:07/16/2017 1:58 PM (GMT-05:00)
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Edd Schillay
> Subject: Stus-List Raymarine Autopilot Question
>
> Listers,
>
> Yesterday, on a dinner trip to Oyster Bay, our autopilot stated to
> malfunction after about an hour or so.
>
> It would be holding a course, then start veering to port, then to
> starboard, then much more to port, then much more to starboard . . and so
> on. Eventually, it would get so far off (over 90 degrees), a the autopilot
> would disengage. I shut it down and tried to restart it by cutting power to
> it for about a minute, then it would happen again after a minute or two.
>
> I tries setting the p70 to “performance” to keep the boat more tightly on
> course, but that had no effect. The display kept showing how far off we
> were (so I know the EV sensor core was working), but it wasn’t correcting
> course properly.
>
> I ended up turning it off completely, in fears of getting a DUI inquiry
> from all the S-turns.
>
> Any ideas? To clarify, I have a ACU-200 and a ST4000+ wheel pilot. And, up
> until yesterday, it was working flawlessly.
>
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Stus-List C&C 27 Mark 5.

[Bev Parslow via CnC-List]

Does anyone have diagrams/photos for setting up a complete head system. The 
club has bought one and needs work.Bev___

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Re: Stus-List A cautionary tale...

[William Walker via CnC-List]

Fred,
  I went through this last fall.  The shaft should be a press fit on coupler in 
machinist terms.  Very snug...
  Just spoke to major manufacturer of the coupler last week, Michigan 
Propeller, and they confirmed that a new hub is shipped undersized in diameter 
for shaft and that you take to machinist and have it milled to a press fit for 
your shaft...this is on friends boat.  
   I think you should look carefully at the coupler to see if worn. On my 
friends boat the key way in shaft was fine (STAINLESS) but the key way in the 
coupler was toast from forward reverse cycles.  Hope yours is as simple as 
replacing the set bolts..
Bill Walker 
CnC 36
Pentwater, Mi.
Bill Walker 

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Monday, July 17, 2017 svpegasus38 via CnC-List  wrote:

Fred,

On my LF38 the hub was a press fit on the prop shaft. I am thinking you might 
have bigger problems than needing a new set screw. 

When I replaced the shaft bearing on my LF38 I had to pull the v-drive to 
remove the shaft, 1 because I couldn't easily pull the hub off and 2 the rudder 
was in the way. 

FWIW.




Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device

Doug Mountjoy 

POYC 

Pegasus for sale)

Lf38 

Significant Other 

LF39 


 Original message 

From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List  

Date: 7/17/17 06:31 (GMT-08:00) 

To: Danny Haughey via CnC-List  

Cc: Frederick G Street  

Subject: Stus-List A cautionary tale... 


Over the weekend, we enjoyed a nice sail on our 1979 LF38 from our marina out 
to Stockton Island in the Apostle Islands of Lake Superior.  A bunch of boat 
friends came by in the evening for cocktails and nibbles, then we settled in 
for the night.  Yesterday morning, I started the engine and pulled up the 
anchor, and we motored back towards the marina.  There was enough wind just off 
dead downwind, so I pulled out the genny and shut the engine down.  As we 
picked up speed, there was a rhythmic clunking sound down below.  I tried to 
put the transmission in forward, then reverse, to see if it was the shaft 
spinning, but there was no change.


So I went down and opened up the engine compartment to see if I could find the 
source of the noise.  The key for the prop shaft at the coupler of the V-drive 
was sitting down below the coupler, and the shaft was freely spinning.  Note 
that the only way this key can come out is if the shaft slides out of the 
coupler; that’s what had happened.  We were saved by the fact that I had 
installed a hose clamp on the shaft between the V-drive and the shaft log; that 
clamp was the only thing that kept us from losing the propeller and shaft out 
the bottom of the boat.


Checking the cap bolt on the coupler, it didn’t seem to be loose, and the shaft 
has a large dimple where the cap bolt is supposed to capture the shaft.  I was 
able to loosen the cap bolt, line up the shaft and coupler, re-insert the key 
and slide the shaft back into the coupler and tighten things up.  Then I added 
another hose clamp just ahead of the shaft log, in case things came apart again.


I’ll have to recheck the cap bolt after a week or two and see how things look.  
But that silly $2.00 stainless hose clamp definitely saved us from a world of 
hurt in the cold waters of Lake Superior…


I urge everyone on the list to make sure you have this simple fix in place.


— Fred



Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI


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Stus-List The notorious C&C smile

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

The C&C smile?  I have one every time I walk down the pier and see Touche'.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List 1980 C&C 30 headliner removal + the notorious C&C smile

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I have never even considered removing the headliner on my 1980 30-1. The grab 
rails are attached on the lower side of the headliner, so you don't have to 
remove it. I have been able to get at everything else with fish tapes from the 
little panels. 

On the smile, we all have one. If the bolts look good and there are no leaks, 
and if you are concerned, then grind it out and put a band of cloth around it, 
fill and fair it and it should be OK. Mine has just been filled a few times, 
and I make sure it is fresh each year. Sometimes it is a bit larger, sometimes 
it lasts without re-cracking. If I get ambitious, I would do the band approach, 
but after 24 years, I am not concerned. No water and no corrosion.

Good luck.

Gary Nylander
#593

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chris Hobson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, July 16, 2017 2:14 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Chris Hobson 
Subject: Stus-List 1980 C&C 30 headliner removal + the notorious C&C smile

Curious how involved removing the cabin headliner is on a 1980 C&C MK1 would 
like to get access to replace/re-bed a bunch of things including the grab 
rails. 

Also, a common question I’m sure that gets asked a lot with C&Cs, but is it 
typical for most of this vintage to have the C&C “smile” at the keel? Obviously 
a good grounding would cause it. I’ve checked the keel bolts and they look good 
and clean with no signs of stress from inside the bilge, and no water. Will be 
hauling out soon for a closer look owner says it has the “usual smile." I’ve 
heard of owners who dropped the keel to check bolts for corrosion. I got rough 
estimates for this at around 4k. Pretty expensive price tag for some piece of 
mind. 


___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List 1986 C&C 44 balsa core isolated or not

[Dan via CnC-List]

Hi Mack, yes, you're right, it is a feathering prop. Nothing "folds" at
all. In the full survey we sourced most of the high moisture to standing
water in non-cored areas. The surveyor is not too concerned with the
readings himself and isn't recommending core samples or test drilling.
We're moving on to sea trial this week or next. Exciting times!!!

Dan
Halifax NS

On Mon, Jul 17, 2017 at 12:54 PM, Mack McKinney via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Dan,
>
> I'm a lot more concerned with the surveyor's lack of knowledge of your
> particular model than I am of moisture meter readings.  MM readings for
> fiberglass should be taken with the grain of salt at best, and no
> conclusions formed from them.  Percussion tests are much more reliable, if
> labor intensive.
>
> I'm also wondering if your 3 blade prop isn't perhaps a feathering prop
> (all blades turn inline with the shaft while at rest?)
>
> Mack
>
> On 7/11/2017 9:12 AM, Dan via CnC-List wrote:
>
> this prop is a 3 blade geared folding prop. It may not be the original
> prop though... I remember being told this was a $2000 prop at the time I
> viewed the boat :)
>
> On Tue, Jul 11, 2017 at 11:08 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> A geared folding prop does not have the same problem and is also fast
>> (and a great way to spend another $2000)
>>
>>
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> Persistence
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Della
>> Barba, Joe via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Tuesday, July 11, 2017 11:05 AM
>> *To:* Dan; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* Della Barba, Joe
>>
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List 1986 C&C 44 balsa core isolated or not
>>
>>
>>
>> Looking back, you can check the shaft tube and strut for damage. It could
>> also just be a leaky stuffing box. Going forward, if you persist with the
>> folding prop (I totally hate them but the boat sails faster), if it does
>> not open, STOP RIGHT THEN and fix it before it does some damage. The more
>> you use the boat, the less likely you are to have issues too.
>>
>>
>>
>> Joe
>>
>> Coquina
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* Dan [mailto:dgcorm...@gmail.com ]
>> *Sent:* Tuesday, July 11, 2017 10:00 AM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* Della Barba, Joe 
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List 1986 C&C 44 balsa core isolated or not
>>
>>
>>
>> Very helpful, thank you so much - and also very scarey... This boat does
>> have a folding prop but it looks brand new. I think this surveyor has more
>> to say but is waiting to get right into the full survey. I did discover
>> that there is about an inch of standing water under the engine and around
>> the prop shaft that could account for the high external meter readings in
>> that area. The area near the bow of the boat is still a mystery. I've
>> learned that all C&C's from this era over 32' have coring below the
>> waterline down to about 12" from the centerline where it becomes solid
>> glass. Hopefully this spot is just a tank and not wet core.
>>
>>
>>
>> Dan
>>
>>
>>
>> On Tue, Jul 11, 2017 at 10:44 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> Besides for that, I would expect a surveyor to TELL ME things like that,
>> not me tell him!
>>
>> Do note a half-open folding prop can do extensive damage. When my parents
>> had Coquina out in the 1980s they had to do an emergency haul-out because
>> the f%$%^&% Martec stuck half-open and nearly ripped the strut off the
>> boat. I suspect this could be much worse with a diesel on rubber mounts too.
>>
>>
>>
>> Joe
>>
>> Coquina
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Hoyt,
>> Mike via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Tuesday, July 11, 2017 8:21 AM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* Hoyt, Mike 
>>
>>
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List 1986 C&C 44 balsa core isolated or not
>>
>>
>>
>> The shaft exists the hull thru the Stern Tube.  Is possible there was
>> some damage or vibration at some point that created a crack which has
>> likely been repaired since.  Normally areas such as stern tube, strut, etc
>> … are solid rather than cored.  Find out because is possible is not
>> moisture being read and maybe just an epoxy repair which can read
>> differently on moisture meters…
>>
>>
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> Persistence
>>
>> Halifax
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
>> ] *On Behalf Of *William Walker via
>> CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Monday, July 10, 2017 7:38 PM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* wwadjo...@aol.com
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List 1986 C&C 44 balsa core isolated or not
>>
>>
>>
>> I am shocked too...i think I would be careful answering for him..this is
>> what you pay for...
>> Bill Walker
>> CnC 36
>>
>> Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
>>
>>
>> --
>>
>> On Monday, July 10, 2017 John Irvin via CnC-List 
>> wrote:
>>
>> I'm surprised the surveyor doesn't know most of these answers himself.
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>>
>> On Jul 10, 2017, at 4:10 PM, Dan 

Re: Stus-List A cautionary tale...

[detroito91 via CnC-List]

Great idea and fix. Now to figure it out. You'll just have to come to 
Washington to install.Good sailing.Jim



Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
 Original message From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
 Date: 7/17/17  9:31 AM  (GMT-05:00) To: Danny Haughey 
via CnC-List  Cc: Frederick G Street 
 Subject: Stus-List A cautionary tale... 
Over the weekend, we enjoyed a nice sail on our 1979 LF38 from our marina out 
to Stockton Island in the Apostle Islands of Lake Superior.  A bunch of boat 
friends came by in the evening for cocktails and nibbles, then we settled in 
for the night.  Yesterday morning, I started the engine and pulled up the 
anchor, and we motored back towards the marina.  There was enough wind just off 
dead downwind, so I pulled out the genny and shut the engine down.  As we 
picked up speed, there was a rhythmic clunking sound down below.  I tried to 
put the transmission in forward, then reverse, to see if it was the shaft 
spinning, but there was no change.
So I went down and opened up the engine compartment to see if I could find the 
source of the noise.  The key for the prop shaft at the coupler of the V-drive 
was sitting down below the coupler, and the shaft was freely spinning.  Note 
that the only way this key can come out is if the shaft slides out of the 
coupler; that’s what had happened.  We were saved by the fact that I had 
installed a hose clamp on the shaft between the V-drive and the shaft log; that 
clamp was the only thing that kept us from losing the propeller and shaft out 
the bottom of the boat.
Checking the cap bolt on the coupler, it didn’t seem to be loose, and the shaft 
has a large dimple where the cap bolt is supposed to capture the shaft.  I was 
able to loosen the cap bolt, line up the shaft and coupler, re-insert the key 
and slide the shaft back into the coupler and tighten things up.  Then I added 
another hose clamp just ahead of the shaft log, in case things came apart again.
I’ll have to recheck the cap bolt after a week or two and see how things look.  
But that silly $2.00 stainless hose clamp definitely saved us from a world of 
hurt in the cold waters of Lake Superior…
I urge everyone on the list to make sure you have this simple fix in place.
— Fred


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List A cautionary tale...

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

They're a bit less expensive from mcmaster.com

https://www.mcmaster.com/#shaft-collars/=18je30g

Dennis C.

On Mon, Jul 17, 2017 at 11:02 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> An even more elegant solution is a shaft collar (e.g.
> http://www.pyiinc.com/shaft-retention-collar.html, but they can be had
> from other sources). I know that it is substantially more than $2 (it would
> be around $20), but it works better.
>
> just my $0.02
>
> Marek
>
> *From:* Frederick G Street via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Monday, July 17, 2017 09:32
> *To:* Danny Haughey via CnC-List
> *Cc:* Frederick G Street
> *Subject:* Stus-List A cautionary tale...
>
> Over the weekend, we enjoyed a nice sail on our 1979 LF38 from our marina
> out to Stockton Island in the Apostle Islands of Lake Superior.  A bunch of
> boat friends came by in the evening for cocktails and nibbles, then we
> settled in for the night.  Yesterday morning, I started the engine and
> pulled up the anchor, and we motored back towards the marina.  There was
> enough wind just off dead downwind, so I pulled out the genny and shut the
> engine down.  As we picked up speed, there was a rhythmic clunking sound
> down below.  I tried to put the transmission in forward, then reverse, to
> see if it was the shaft spinning, but there was no change.
>
> So I went down and opened up the engine compartment to see if I could find
> the source of the noise.  The key for the prop shaft at the coupler of the
> V-drive was sitting down below the coupler, and the shaft was freely
> spinning.  Note that the only way this key can come out is if the shaft
> slides out of the coupler; that’s what had happened.  We were saved by the
> fact that I had installed a hose clamp on the shaft between the V-drive and
> the shaft log; that clamp was the only thing that kept us from losing the
> propeller and shaft out the bottom of the boat.
>
> Checking the cap bolt on the coupler, it didn’t seem to be loose, and the
> shaft has a large dimple where the cap bolt is supposed to capture the
> shaft.  I was able to loosen the cap bolt, line up the shaft and coupler,
> re-insert the key and slide the shaft back into the coupler and tighten
> things up.  Then I added *another* hose clamp just ahead of the shaft
> log, in case things came apart again.
>
> I’ll have to recheck the cap bolt after a week or two and see how things
> look.  But that silly $2.00 stainless hose clamp definitely saved us from a
> world of hurt in the cold waters of Lake Superior…
>
> I urge everyone on the list to make sure you have this simple fix in place.
>
> — Fred
>
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List A cautionary tale...

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

Fred,On my LF38 the hub was a press fit on the prop shaft. I am thinking you 
might have bigger problems than needing a new set screw. When I replaced the 
shaft bearing on my LF38 I had to pull the v-drive to remove the shaft, 1 
because I couldn't easily pull the hub off and 2 the rudder was in the way. 
FWIW.


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus for sale)Lf38 
Significant Other LF39 
 Original message From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
 Date: 7/17/17  06:31  (GMT-08:00) To: Danny Haughey via 
CnC-List  Cc: Frederick G Street  
Subject: Stus-List A cautionary tale... 
Over the weekend, we enjoyed a nice sail on our 1979 LF38 from our marina out 
to Stockton Island in the Apostle Islands of Lake Superior.  A bunch of boat 
friends came by in the evening for cocktails and nibbles, then we settled in 
for the night.  Yesterday morning, I started the engine and pulled up the 
anchor, and we motored back towards the marina.  There was enough wind just off 
dead downwind, so I pulled out the genny and shut the engine down.  As we 
picked up speed, there was a rhythmic clunking sound down below.  I tried to 
put the transmission in forward, then reverse, to see if it was the shaft 
spinning, but there was no change.
So I went down and opened up the engine compartment to see if I could find the 
source of the noise.  The key for the prop shaft at the coupler of the V-drive 
was sitting down below the coupler, and the shaft was freely spinning.  Note 
that the only way this key can come out is if the shaft slides out of the 
coupler; that’s what had happened.  We were saved by the fact that I had 
installed a hose clamp on the shaft between the V-drive and the shaft log; that 
clamp was the only thing that kept us from losing the propeller and shaft out 
the bottom of the boat.
Checking the cap bolt on the coupler, it didn’t seem to be loose, and the shaft 
has a large dimple where the cap bolt is supposed to capture the shaft.  I was 
able to loosen the cap bolt, line up the shaft and coupler, re-insert the key 
and slide the shaft back into the coupler and tighten things up.  Then I added 
another hose clamp just ahead of the shaft log, in case things came apart again.
I’ll have to recheck the cap bolt after a week or two and see how things look.  
But that silly $2.00 stainless hose clamp definitely saved us from a world of 
hurt in the cold waters of Lake Superior…
I urge everyone on the list to make sure you have this simple fix in place.
— Fred


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List A cautionary tale...

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

An even more elegant solution is a shaft collar (e.g. 
http://www.pyiinc.com/shaft-retention-collar.html, but they can be had from 
other sources). I know that it is substantially more than $2 (it would be 
around $20), but it works better.

just my $0.02

Marek

From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, July 17, 2017 09:32
To: Danny Haughey via CnC-List
Cc: Frederick G Street
Subject: Stus-List A cautionary tale...

Over the weekend, we enjoyed a nice sail on our 1979 LF38 from our marina out 
to Stockton Island in the Apostle Islands of Lake Superior.  A bunch of boat 
friends came by in the evening for cocktails and nibbles, then we settled in 
for the night.  Yesterday morning, I started the engine and pulled up the 
anchor, and we motored back towards the marina.  There was enough wind just off 
dead downwind, so I pulled out the genny and shut the engine down.  As we 
picked up speed, there was a rhythmic clunking sound down below.  I tried to 
put the transmission in forward, then reverse, to see if it was the shaft 
spinning, but there was no change.

So I went down and opened up the engine compartment to see if I could find the 
source of the noise.  The key for the prop shaft at the coupler of the V-drive 
was sitting down below the coupler, and the shaft was freely spinning.  Note 
that the only way this key can come out is if the shaft slides out of the 
coupler; that’s what had happened.  We were saved by the fact that I had 
installed a hose clamp on the shaft between the V-drive and the shaft log; that 
clamp was the only thing that kept us from losing the propeller and shaft out 
the bottom of the boat.

Checking the cap bolt on the coupler, it didn’t seem to be loose, and the shaft 
has a large dimple where the cap bolt is supposed to capture the shaft.  I was 
able to loosen the cap bolt, line up the shaft and coupler, re-insert the key 
and slide the shaft back into the coupler and tighten things up.  Then I added 
another hose clamp just ahead of the shaft log, in case things came apart again.

I’ll have to recheck the cap bolt after a week or two and see how things look.  
But that silly $2.00 stainless hose clamp definitely saved us from a world of 
hurt in the cold waters of Lake Superior…

I urge everyone on the list to make sure you have this simple fix in place.

— Fred


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 1986 C&C 44 balsa core isolated or not

[Mack McKinney via CnC-List]

Dan,

I'm a lot more concerned with the surveyor's lack of knowledge of your 
particular model than I am of moisture meter readings.  MM readings for 
fiberglass should be taken with the grain of salt at best, and no 
conclusions formed from them.  Percussion tests are much more reliable, 
if labor intensive.


I'm also wondering if your 3 blade prop isn't perhaps a feathering prop 
(all blades turn inline with the shaft while at rest?)


Mack


On 7/11/2017 9:12 AM, Dan via CnC-List wrote:
this prop is a 3 blade geared folding prop. It may not be the original 
prop though... I remember being told this was a $2000 prop at the time 
I viewed the boat :)


On Tue, Jul 11, 2017 at 11:08 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


A geared folding prop does not have the same problem and is also
fast (and a great way to spend another $2000)

Mike

Persistence

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
] *On Behalf Of *Della
Barba, Joe via CnC-List
*Sent:* Tuesday, July 11, 2017 11:05 AM
*To:* Dan; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
*Cc:* Della Barba, Joe


*Subject:* Re: Stus-List 1986 C&C 44 balsa core isolated or not

Looking back, you can check the shaft tube and strut for damage.
It could also just be a leaky stuffing box. Going forward, if you
persist with the folding prop (I totally hate them but the boat
sails faster), if it does not open, STOP RIGHT THEN and fix it
before it does some damage. The more you use the boat, the less
likely you are to have issues too.

Joe

Coquina

*From:*Dan [mailto:dgcorm...@gmail.com]
*Sent:* Tuesday, July 11, 2017 10:00 AM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
*Cc:* Della Barba, Joe mailto:joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov>>
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List 1986 C&C 44 balsa core isolated or not

Very helpful, thank you so much - and also very scarey... This
boat does have a folding prop but it looks brand new. I think this
surveyor has more to say but is waiting to get right into the full
survey. I did discover that there is about an inch of standing
water under the engine and around the prop shaft that could
account for the high external meter readings in that area. The
area near the bow of the boat is still a mystery. I've learned
that all C&C's from this era over 32' have coring below the
waterline down to about 12" from the centerline where it becomes
solid glass. Hopefully this spot is just a tank and not wet core.

Dan

On Tue, Jul 11, 2017 at 10:44 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Besides for that, I would expect a surveyor to TELL ME things
like that, not me tell him!

Do note a half-open folding prop can do extensive damage. When
my parents had Coquina out in the 1980s they had to do an
emergency haul-out because the f%$%^&% Martec stuck half-open
and nearly ripped the strut off the boat. I suspect this could
be much worse with a diesel on rubber mounts too.

Joe

Coquina

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
] *On Behalf Of *Hoyt,
Mike via CnC-List
*Sent:* Tuesday, July 11, 2017 8:21 AM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
*Cc:* Hoyt, Mike mailto:mike.h...@impgroup.com>>


*Subject:* Re: Stus-List 1986 C&C 44 balsa core isolated or not

The shaft exists the hull thru the Stern Tube.  Is possible
there was some damage or vibration at some point that created
a crack which has likely been repaired since. Normally areas
such as stern tube, strut, etc … are solid rather than cored. 
Find out because is possible is not moisture being read and

maybe just an epoxy repair which can read differently on
moisture meters…

Mike

Persistence

Halifax

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
] *On Behalf Of *William
Walker via CnC-List
*Sent:* Monday, July 10, 2017 7:38 PM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
*Cc:* wwadjo...@aol.com 
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List 1986 C&C 44 balsa core isolated or not

I am shocked too...i think I would be careful answering for
him..this is what you pay for...
Bill Walker
CnC 36

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail



On Monday, July 10, 2017 John Irvin via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

I'm surprised the surveyor doesn't know most of these answers
himself.

Sent from m

Stus-List A cautionary tale

[JPD via CnC-List]

Drill the cap bolt for safety wire and wire it up
.032" SS wire should do it

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
Sent: Monday, July 17, 2017 8:04 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 138, Issue 79

Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
cnc-list@cnc-list.com

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
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"Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."


Today's Topics:

   1.  Spinnaker for C&C 24 (Doug Ellmore)
   2. Re:  A cautionary tale... (johnr)
   3. Re:  Raymarine Autopilot Question (Della Barba, Joe)
   4.  Anyone need an engine? A4 for sale (Della Barba, Joe)
   5. Re:  Raymarine Autopilot Question (Edd Schillay)


--

Message: 1
Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2017 09:35:16 -0400
From: Doug Ellmore 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Spinnaker for C&C 24
Message-ID:

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Looking for a good used symmetrical or asymmetrical spinnaker for my C&C 24
for the St. Mary's Governors Cup race.  I am registered CHESSS.  If we don't
get enough to split the group into spin and non-spin, I'd like to have a
larger downwind sail.

--
Doug Ellmore, Sr.
s/v Red Sky
d...@ellmore.net
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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2017 09:41:11 -0400
From: johnr 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List A cautionary tale...
Message-ID: <15d50c80148-40b2-a...@webprd-m96.mail.aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

I had a similar problem on a Catalina 30 and the zinc on the prop shaft
ahead of the cutlass bearing kept the whole drive train from going into the
drink.


John McLaughlin
"Falcon"
C&C29-2



-Original Message-
From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
To: Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
Cc: Frederick G Street 
Sent: Mon, Jul 17, 2017 9:32 am
Subject: Stus-List A cautionary tale...


Over the weekend, we enjoyed a nice sail on our 1979 LF38 from our marina
out to Stockton Island in the Apostle Islands of Lake Superior.  A bunch of
boat friends came by in the evening for cocktails and nibbles, then we
settled in for the night.  Yesterday morning, I started the engine and
pulled up the anchor, and we motored back towards the marina.  There was
enough wind just off dead downwind, so I pulled out the genny and shut the
engine down.  As we picked up speed, there was a rhythmic clunking sound
down below.  I tried to put the transmission in forward, then reverse, to
see if it was the shaft spinning, but there was no change.


So I went down and opened up the engine compartment to see if I could find
the source of the noise.  The key for the prop shaft at the coupler of the
V-drive was sitting down below the coupler, and the shaft was freely
spinning.  Note that the only way this key can come out is if the shaft
slides out of the coupler; that?s what had happened.  We were saved by the
fact that I had installed a hose clamp on the shaft between the V-drive and
the shaft log; that clamp was the only thing that kept us from losing the
propeller and shaft out the bottom of the boat.


Checking the cap bolt on the coupler, it didn?t seem to be loose, and the
shaft has a large dimple where the cap bolt is supposed to capture the
shaft.  I was able to loosen the cap bolt, line up the shaft and coupler,
re-insert the key and slide the shaft back into the coupler and tighten
things up.  Then I added another hose clamp just ahead of the shaft log, in
case things came apart again.


I?ll have to recheck the cap bolt after a week or two and see how things
look.  But that silly $2.00 stainless hose clamp definitely saved us from a
world of hurt in the cold waters of Lake Superior?


I urge everyone on the list to make sure you have this simple fix in place.


? Fred







Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI






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to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

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Re: Stus-List Raymarine Autopilot Question

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Edd

When my linear drive start acting sporadic it was the brushes.  By sporadic I 
mean the autopilot would turn the wheel to come back on course then it would 
let go and just hold the last correction.  Sometimes it would just go straight 
sometimes it wanted to do circles.  The brushes were worn out and only made 
contacted with the armature occasionally.  Could not buy the brushes anywhere.  
Ended up ordering oversized ones on line and filing them to fit.  That was over 
two years ago and no issues since.

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Jul 17, 2017, at 10:33 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> All,
> 
> Thanks. I’m thinking it must be the connections and will double-check those. 
> I could see the heading reading in the upper right corner of the display, so 
> I know there were no issues with the fluxgate. I also don’t think it w the 
> belt as the wheel drive is new and has less than two hours of total use on it 
> — additionally, the motor was not reacting — not like it was whirring and 
> slipping. 
> 
> OK — back in I go . . .   
> http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-t84cI65qdtE/TaxAHhoNrgI/BdY/74WdK5ON_Rc/s1600/photo.JPG
>  
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> 
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY 
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
> 
>   
> 
> 
> 
> 
>> On Jul 17, 2017, at 9:53 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Note that many cell phone holsters have strong magnets to hold the case 
>> closed too. If you sit near where the fluxgate is……
>>  
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Russ & 
>> Melody via CnC-List
>> Sent: Monday, July 17, 2017 1:16 AM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: Russ & Melody 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Raymarine Autopilot Question
>>  
>> 
>> Good to hear.
>> 
>> Frienfriends don't let frienfriends mess with fluxgate compasses.
>> 
>> Cheers, Russ
>> Sweet 35 mk-1
>> 
>> 
>> At 09:30 PM 16/07/2017, you wrote:
>> 
>> Make sure there is no metal near the flux compass. A frienfriend had this 
>> happen to him, found a spray can next to his flux compass. 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
>> Doug Mountjoy 
>> POYC 
>> Pegasus (for sale)
>> Lf38 
>> Significant Other 
>> LF 39
>> 
>>  Original message 
>> From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List  
>> Date: 7/16/17 10:58 (GMT-08:00) 
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>> Cc: Edd Schillay  
>> Subject: Stus-List Raymarine Autopilot Question 
>> 
>> Listers,
>> 
>> Yesterday, on a dinner trip to Oyster Bay, our autopilot stated to 
>> malfunction after about an hour or so.
>> 
>> It would be holding a course, then start veering to port, then to starboard, 
>> then much more to port, then much more to starboard . . and so on. 
>> Eventually, it would get so far off (over 90 degrees), a the autopilot would 
>> disengage. I shut it down and tried to restart it by cutting power to it for 
>> about a minute, then it would happen again after a minute or two. 
>> 
>> I tries setting the p70 to “performance” to keep the boat more tightly 
>> on course, but that had no effect. The display kept showing how far off we 
>> were (so I know the EV sensor core was working), but it wasn’t correcting 
>> course properly. 
>> 
>> I ended up turning it off completely, in fears of getting a DUI inquiry from 
>> all the S-turns. 
>> 
>> Any ideas? To clarify, I have a ACU-200 and a ST4000+ wheel pilot. And, up 
>> until yesterday, it was working flawlessly. 
>> 
>> 
>> All the best,
>> 
>> Edd
>> 
>> 
>> Edd M. Schillay
>> Starship Enterprise
>> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>> City Island, NY 
>> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Raymarine Autopilot Question

[bushmark4--- via CnC-List]

 Edd, I feel for ya...; my autopilot (same unit, Raymarine p70) has the 
hydraulic drive and when engaged, it will move back and forth about 2-3 degrees 
incessantly...I have checked the connections and worked through the set up 
pages multiple times with no avail...if you find something specific, please let 
me know, it might be of help to my problem!   Thanks!

 


Richard

Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Edd Schillay 
Sent: Mon, Jul 17, 2017 10:34 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Raymarine Autopilot Question


All,


Thanks. I’m thinking it must be the connections and will double-check those. I 
could see the heading reading in the upper right corner of the display, so I 
know there were no issues with the fluxgate. I also don’t think it w the belt 
as the wheel drive is new and has less than two hours of total use on it — 
additionally, the motor was not reacting — not like it was whirring and 
slipping. 


OK — back in I go . . .   
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-t84cI65qdtE/TaxAHhoNrgI/BdY/74WdK5ON_Rc/s1600/photo.JPG
 



All the best,


Edd




Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log













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Re: Stus-List Raymarine Autopilot Question

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Edd,

Check the connection on the back of the motor.  It gets loose from time to
time.

Joel

On Mon, Jul 17, 2017 at 10:33 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> All,
>
> Thanks. I’m thinking it must be the connections and will double-check
> those. I could see the heading reading in the upper right corner of the
> display, so I know there were no issues with the fluxgate. I also don’t
> think it w the belt as the wheel drive is new and has less than two hours
> of total use on it — additionally, the motor was not reacting — not like it
> was whirring and slipping.
>
> OK — back in I go . . .   http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-
> t84cI65qdtE/TaxAHhoNrgI/BdY/74WdK5ON_Rc/s1600/photo.JPG
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
>
>
>
> On Jul 17, 2017, at 9:53 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Note that many cell phone holsters have strong magnets to hold the case
> closed too. If you sit near where the fluxgate is……
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
> ] *On Behalf Of *Russ & Melody via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Monday, July 17, 2017 1:16 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Russ & Melody 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Raymarine Autopilot Question
>
>
> Good to hear.
>
> Frienfriends don't let frienfriends mess with fluxgate compasses.
>
> Cheers, Russ
> *Sweet *35 mk-1
>
>
> At 09:30 PM 16/07/2017, you wrote:
>
> Make sure there is no metal near the flux compass. A frienfriend had this
> happen to him, found a spray can next to his flux compass.
>
>
>
> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
> Doug Mountjoy
> POYC
> Pegasus (for sale)
> Lf38
> Significant Other
> LF 39
>
>  Original message 
> From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
> Date: 7/16/17 10:58 (GMT-08:00)
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Edd Schillay 
> Subject: Stus-List Raymarine Autopilot Question
>
> Listers,
>
> Yesterday, on a dinner trip to Oyster Bay, our autopilot stated to
> malfunction after about an hour or so.
>
> It would be holding a course, then start veering to port, then to
> starboard, then much more to port, then much more to starboard . . and so
> on. Eventually, it would get so far off (over 90 degrees), a the autopilot
> would disengage. I shut it down and tried to restart it by cutting power to
> it for about a minute, then it would happen again after a minute or two.
>
> I tries setting the p70 to “performance†to keep the boat more tightly
> on course, but that had no effect. The display kept showing how far off we
> were (so I know the EV sensor core was working), but it wasn’t correcting
> course properly.
>
> I ended up turning it off completely, in fears of getting a DUI inquiry
> from all the S-turns.
>
> Any ideas? To clarify, I have a ACU-200 and a ST4000+ wheel pilot. And, up
> until yesterday, it was working flawlessly.
>
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Raymarine Autopilot Question

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

All,

Thanks. I’m thinking it must be the connections and will double-check those. I 
could see the heading reading in the upper right corner of the display, so I 
know there were no issues with the fluxgate. I also don’t think it w the belt 
as the wheel drive is new and has less than two hours of total use on it — 
additionally, the motor was not reacting — not like it was whirring and 
slipping. 

OK — back in I go . . .   
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-t84cI65qdtE/TaxAHhoNrgI/BdY/74WdK5ON_Rc/s1600/photo.JPG
 

 

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 






> On Jul 17, 2017, at 9:53 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Note that many cell phone holsters have strong magnets to hold the case 
> closed too. If you sit near where the fluxgate is……
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
> ] On Behalf Of Russ & Melody via 
> CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, July 17, 2017 1:16 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: Russ & Melody mailto:russ...@telus.net>>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Raymarine Autopilot Question
>  
> 
> Good to hear.
> 
> Frienfriends don't let frienfriends mess with fluxgate compasses.
> 
> Cheers, Russ
> Sweet 35 mk-1
> 
> 
> At 09:30 PM 16/07/2017, you wrote:
> 
> Make sure there is no metal near the flux compass. A frienfriend had this 
> happen to him, found a spray can next to his flux compass. 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
> Doug Mountjoy 
> POYC 
> Pegasus (for sale)
> Lf38 
> Significant Other 
> LF 39
> 
>  Original message 
> From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List  > 
> Date: 7/16/17 10:58 (GMT-08:00) 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
> Cc: Edd Schillay mailto:e...@schillay.com>> 
> Subject: Stus-List Raymarine Autopilot Question 
> 
> Listers,
> 
> Yesterday, on a dinner trip to Oyster Bay, our autopilot stated to 
> malfunction after about an hour or so.
> 
> It would be holding a course, then start veering to port, then to starboard, 
> then much more to port, then much more to starboard . . and so on. 
> Eventually, it would get so far off (over 90 degrees), a the autopilot would 
> disengage. I shut it down and tried to restart it by cutting power to it for 
> about a minute, then it would happen again after a minute or two. 
> 
> I tries setting the p70 to “performance” to keep the boat more tightly on 
> course, but that had no effect. The display kept showing how far off we were 
> (so I know the EV sensor core was working), but it wasn’t correcting course 
> properly. 
> 
> I ended up turning it off completely, in fears of getting a DUI inquiry from 
> all the S-turns. 
> 
> Any ideas? To clarify, I have a ACU-200 and a ST4000+ wheel pilot. And, up 
> until yesterday, it was working flawlessly. 
> 
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> 
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY 
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Stus-List Anyone need an engine? A4 for sale

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Just saw this:
http://www.moyermarine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10297

No knowledge except what you read there, this is FYI

Joe
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I
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Re: Stus-List Raymarine Autopilot Question

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Note that many cell phone holsters have strong magnets to hold the case closed 
too. If you sit near where the fluxgate is……

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Russ & 
Melody via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, July 17, 2017 1:16 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Russ & Melody 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Raymarine Autopilot Question


Good to hear.

Frienfriends don't let frienfriends mess with fluxgate compasses.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


At 09:30 PM 16/07/2017, you wrote:

Make sure there is no metal near the flux compass. A frienfriend had this 
happen to him, found a spray can next to his flux compass.



Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
Doug Mountjoy
POYC
Pegasus (for sale)
Lf38
Significant Other
LF 39

 Original message 
From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Date: 7/16/17 10:58 (GMT-08:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Edd Schillay mailto:e...@schillay.com>>
Subject: Stus-List Raymarine Autopilot Question

Listers,

Yesterday, on a dinner trip to Oyster Bay, our autopilot stated to malfunction 
after about an hour or so.

It would be holding a course, then start veering to port, then to starboard, 
then much more to port, then much more to starboard . . and so on. Eventually, 
it would get so far off (over 90 degrees), a the autopilot would disengage. I 
shut it down and tried to restart it by cutting power to it for about a minute, 
then it would happen again after a minute or two.

I tries setting the p70 to “performance” to keep the boat more tightly on 
course, but that had no effect. The display kept showing how far off we were 
(so I know the EV sensor core was working), but it wasn’t correcting course 
properly.

I ended up turning it off completely, in fears of getting a DUI inquiry from 
all the S-turns.

Any ideas? To clarify, I have a ACU-200 and a ST4000+ wheel pilot. And, up 
until yesterday, it was working flawlessly.


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List A cautionary tale...

[johnr via CnC-List]

I had a similar problem on a Catalina 30 and the zinc on the prop shaft ahead 
of the cutlass bearing kept the whole drive train from going into the drink.


John McLaughlin
"Falcon"
C&C29-2



-Original Message-
From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
To: Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
Cc: Frederick G Street 
Sent: Mon, Jul 17, 2017 9:32 am
Subject: Stus-List A cautionary tale...


Over the weekend, we enjoyed a nice sail on our 1979 LF38 from our marina out 
to Stockton Island in the Apostle Islands of Lake Superior.  A bunch of boat 
friends came by in the evening for cocktails and nibbles, then we settled in 
for the night.  Yesterday morning, I started the engine and pulled up the 
anchor, and we motored back towards the marina.  There was enough wind just off 
dead downwind, so I pulled out the genny and shut the engine down.  As we 
picked up speed, there was a rhythmic clunking sound down below.  I tried to 
put the transmission in forward, then reverse, to see if it was the shaft 
spinning, but there was no change.


So I went down and opened up the engine compartment to see if I could find the 
source of the noise.  The key for the prop shaft at the coupler of the V-drive 
was sitting down below the coupler, and the shaft was freely spinning.  Note 
that the only way this key can come out is if the shaft slides out of the 
coupler; that’s what had happened.  We were saved by the fact that I had 
installed a hose clamp on the shaft between the V-drive and the shaft log; that 
clamp was the only thing that kept us from losing the propeller and shaft out 
the bottom of the boat.


Checking the cap bolt on the coupler, it didn’t seem to be loose, and the shaft 
has a large dimple where the cap bolt is supposed to capture the shaft.  I was 
able to loosen the cap bolt, line up the shaft and coupler, re-insert the key 
and slide the shaft back into the coupler and tighten things up.  Then I added 
another hose clamp just ahead of the shaft log, in case things came apart again.


I’ll have to recheck the cap bolt after a week or two and see how things look.  
But that silly $2.00 stainless hose clamp definitely saved us from a world of 
hurt in the cold waters of Lake Superior…


I urge everyone on the list to make sure you have this simple fix in place.


— Fred







Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI






___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Stus-List Spinnaker for C&C 24

[Doug Ellmore via CnC-List]

Looking for a good used symmetrical or asymmetrical spinnaker for my C&C 24
for the St. Mary's Governors Cup race.  I am registered CHESSS.  If we
don't get enough to split the group into spin and non-spin, I'd like to
have a larger downwind sail.

-- 
Doug Ellmore, Sr.
s/v Red Sky
d...@ellmore.net
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Stus-List A cautionary tale...

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Over the weekend, we enjoyed a nice sail on our 1979 LF38 from our marina out 
to Stockton Island in the Apostle Islands of Lake Superior.  A bunch of boat 
friends came by in the evening for cocktails and nibbles, then we settled in 
for the night.  Yesterday morning, I started the engine and pulled up the 
anchor, and we motored back towards the marina.  There was enough wind just off 
dead downwind, so I pulled out the genny and shut the engine down.  As we 
picked up speed, there was a rhythmic clunking sound down below.  I tried to 
put the transmission in forward, then reverse, to see if it was the shaft 
spinning, but there was no change.

So I went down and opened up the engine compartment to see if I could find the 
source of the noise.  The key for the prop shaft at the coupler of the V-drive 
was sitting down below the coupler, and the shaft was freely spinning.  Note 
that the only way this key can come out is if the shaft slides out of the 
coupler; that’s what had happened.  We were saved by the fact that I had 
installed a hose clamp on the shaft between the V-drive and the shaft log; that 
clamp was the only thing that kept us from losing the propeller and shaft out 
the bottom of the boat.

Checking the cap bolt on the coupler, it didn’t seem to be loose, and the shaft 
has a large dimple where the cap bolt is supposed to capture the shaft.  I was 
able to loosen the cap bolt, line up the shaft and coupler, re-insert the key 
and slide the shaft back into the coupler and tighten things up.  Then I added 
another hose clamp just ahead of the shaft log, in case things came apart again.

I’ll have to recheck the cap bolt after a week or two and see how things look.  
But that silly $2.00 stainless hose clamp definitely saved us from a world of 
hurt in the cold waters of Lake Superior…

I urge everyone on the list to make sure you have this simple fix in place.

— Fred


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

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Re: Stus-List traveller track/cars Harken vs others

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Thanks Gary

Yes that is the same sheet arrangement as we had on Koobalibra.  It resulted in 
very large loads on the traveler car and when was sheeted hard would not slide 
easily.  Using sheet sometimes was easier if windy esp.  That being the 
negative the main on that boat is beautiful.  It is so adjustable that it feels 
like it is talking to you 

Mike

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary 
Nylander via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, July 13, 2017 5:28 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Gary Nylander
Subject: Re: Stus-List traveller track/cars Harken vs others

I am not enamored with the 115 windward sheeting arrangement. The main sheet 
goes from a line lock on the lower part of the pedestal to the boom and back. 
Each end has a lock and a dedicated winch. Seems to me like a waste of winches. 
The car is mounted low in front of the pedestal and has a continuous line for 
adjustment, but the trimmer has to get down almost at deck level to do the 
adjustment. Our trimmer seems to use the winches and the sheet more than the 
traveler and I think that is counter productive. Plus he is in my way when I 
want to trim the jib.

And About four grand of self tailing winches I would rather use for the 
chute, but I am just a newbie on the boat.

Gary

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt, Mike 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, July 13, 2017 12:37 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Hoyt, Mike mailto:mike.h...@impgroup.com>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List traveller track/cars Harken vs others

Hi Gary

The loads on the main sheet and traveler on the 115 are normally pretty high.  
When it was windy and gusty we would often have one person on traveler and 
another on the sheet.  I believe Koobalibra did have a windward sheeting car 
but am not certain as it has been nearly two years since we raced on that boat. 
 However I think it would have been nice to have even if expensive on the 115.

Does the 115 you race on have the 2:1 purchase on the main sheet?  Do you find 
leeward roundings a LOT of work for the main trimmer?

Mike
Persistence
Halifax

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary 
Nylander via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, July 13, 2017 12:48 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Gary Nylander
Subject: Re: Stus-List traveller track/cars Harken vs others

I agree about it being overrated, unless you have a real tender boat where the 
crew has to be on the rail at all times. I put one on my 30-1 and it was almost 
useless in our light air conditions. The wind was often too light to allow the 
windward sheeting capability to work. I am racing on a C&C 115 and it is pretty 
much the same.

I blocked my car off and put blocks and cam cleats at the ends of the traveler. 
As the main trimmer is in the middle of the boat most times, it works better. 
My traveler is on the companionway area shelf and spans the full width of the 
cockpit.

Gary
#593

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Matthew L. 
Wolford via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, July 13, 2017 9:29 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Matthew L. Wolford mailto:wolf...@erie.net>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List traveller track/cars Harken vs others

I had a windward sheeting car on my 34 and believe they're overrated.  Just my 
two cents.

From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, July 12, 2017 10:32 PM
To: Dennis C. via CnC-List
Cc: Marek Dziedzic
Subject: Re: Stus-List traveller track/cars Harken vs others

If you decide on Harken, go for the "windward sheeting" traveler car. As they 
say in their ads, once you raced with one, you would never go back.

If you are cost conscious, go for Garhauer; there is hardly better value (not 
to mention that they usually bend over backwards to accommodate your needs).

Marek

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: Dennis C. via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, July 12, 2017 18:55
To: CnClist
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: Re: Stus-List traveller track/cars Harken vs others

When looking at "ball bearing" traveler and genoa car systems (as opposed to 
pin stop or slide track), design is a factor.  While some use T-track, others 
use X-track.  Some use recirculating ball bearings, others use wheels.

The design has a LOT to do with how the system handles loads.  I think that's 
why Harken is so well regarded.  While other brands may be good, my opinion is 
Harken's design handles the loads better, and therefore moves easier than 
others.  Just my opinion.  Whether the ease of movement is worth the price 
premium, well, that's your choice.

All I'm saying is look closely at the design.  Find and ask owners of different 
systems.