Re: Stus-List Rigid boom vangs - rivets vs screws NOW feckless meanderings

[Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List]

"I am younger than that now."
Must be a Dylan fan.Does he have any songs about sailboats?  Anything we can 
adapt to old C&Cs?Finally had a day under 90 F friday and went out sailing.  
Winds at 20 with gusts as high as 28mph; used my 160% genny only and it was a 
great choice, although tacking took a while.  Once through the tack, the wind 
just kept blowing the bow down.  Had to gain speed and nurse it back to 
windward.  Downwind was a blast!RonWild CheriC&C 30-1STL
  From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Dennis C. 
 Sent: Saturday, July 29, 2017 5:57 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Rigid boom vangs - rivets vs screws
   
Too funny. After my post favoring SS rivets, I get to Touché today to see 1/4 
inch Phillips machine screws on the vang bracket. :)
Well, it was many years ago when I installed it; I am younger than that now. 
Dennis C.

Sent from my iPhone
On Jul 27, 2017, at 9:08 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List  
wrote:



#yiv3482658130 #yiv3482658130 -- _filtered #yiv3482658130 {panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 
6 3 2 4;} _filtered #yiv3482658130 {font-family:Calibri;panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4 
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{color:#0563C1;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv3482658130 a:visited, 
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{margin:1.0in 1.0in 1.0in 1.0in;}#yiv3482658130 div.yiv3482658130WordSection1 
{}#yiv3482658130 One thing to remember about the Garhauer vang is that the 
attachment to both the mast and the boom are custom made for the boat (you send 
them the profile of the mast and boom when you order the vang), and the plates 
attached to the mast and boom wrap significantly around the spars. (On my 25 
about half of the boom is cradled in the attached plate. ) So the fasteners 
connecting the plate to the spar are under primarily shear loading, not 
tensile.  For this sort of configuration, the additional cross section of the 
machine screw (or cap screw, if you use those) would seem the better choice. 
If, however, you have something like a Boomkicker, or a vang with “generic” 
mounting plates that don’t curve around the spars, rivets might be a better 
choice.  Rick BrassImzadi  C&C 38 mk2 #47la Belle Aurore  C&C 25 mk1 
#225Washington, NC  BTW, both have Garhauer vangs.  
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Stus-List Wiring Bilge Direct to Battery

[Chris Hobson via CnC-List]

Need to wire the bilge pump direct to the battery and bypass the distribution 
panel. Currently have to turn battery on for it to work. Simple enough, just 
not something I've done before. Has anyone wired this or know how to install a 
switch (3-way) to do so? No I'm not an electrician and yes I'm aware of the 
consequences of electricity.

Chris Hobson
s/v Going
1980 C&C 30 MK1
Hull #615
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Stus-List feckless meanderings - Dylan

[G Collins via CnC-List]

The song Mr. Tambourine Man does have the line "take me on a trip upon your 
magic swirlin' ship", and there is a C&C here with the name Magic Swirlin' Ship

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2017-07-30 1:46 PM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List wrote:
"I am younger than that now."

Must be a Dylan fan.
Does he have any songs about sailboats?  Anything we can adapt to old C&Cs?
Finally had a day under 90 F friday and went out sailing.  Winds at 20 with 
gusts as high as 28mph; used my 160% genny only and it was a great choice, 
although tacking took a while.  Once through the tack, the wind just kept 
blowing the bow down.  Had to gain speed and nurse it back to windward.  
Downwind was a blast!
Ron
Wild Cheri
C&C 30-1
STL


From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dennis C. 
Sent: Saturday, July 29, 2017 5:57 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rigid boom vangs - rivets vs screws

Too funny. After my post favoring SS rivets, I get to Touché today to see 1/4 
inch Phillips machine screws on the vang bracket. :)

Well, it was many years ago when I installed it; I am younger than that now.

Dennis C.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 27, 2017, at 9:08 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

One thing to remember about the Garhauer vang is that the attachment to both 
the mast and the boom are custom made for the boat (you send them the profile 
of the mast and boom when you order the vang), and the plates attached to the 
mast and boom wrap significantly around the spars. (On my 25 about half of the 
boom is cradled in the attached plate. ) So the fasteners connecting the plate 
to the spar are under primarily shear loading, not tensile.

For this sort of configuration, the additional cross section of the machine 
screw (or cap screw, if you use those) would seem the better choice. If, 
however, you have something like a Boomkicker, or a vang with “generic” 
mounting plates that don’t curve around the spars, rivets might be a better 
choice.

Rick Brass
Imzadi  C&C 38 mk2 #47
la Belle Aurore  C&C 25 mk1 #225
Washington, NC

BTW, both have Garhauer vangs.





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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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___

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Re: Stus-List Wiring Bilge Direct to Battery

[RANDY via CnC-List]

Hi Chris, 

I just did that this year. It's straightforward. You just have to have all the 
supplies and tools. On my 30-1 the three-way switches for the bilge pumps (I 
have two) are mounted under the galley sink, through the plywood separating the 
starboard lazaret from the space under the galley sink. If you mount your 
switch there, you'll need a drill and jigsaw to cut a hole for the switch. 

Then you'll need some ring terminals matching the size of your battery's studs 
and the size of your wire. If the wiring on your switch and pump is 16-gauge 
like mine, it's easiest to get bulk 16-gauge wire in red and black. You'll need 
some 16-gauge butt connectors to connect the wires on the back of the switch to 
the wires on the pump and to the wire run over to the battery. And you'll need 
a wire cutter, wire stripper, and a crimping tool. 

In my case since I have two batteries and two pumps, I mounted terminal strips 
enclosed in junction boxes to the plywood near the batteries (port side), and 
near the switches (starboard side). I connected the positive studs of both 
batteries to one terminal strip, and the negative studs to the other. Then I 
did one run of red and black over to the terminal strips on the starboard side 
where the pump switch leads connected. And of course you'll want some cable 
clamps to run the wires neatly and keep them in place. 

You can get all the stuff you need at West Marine, though the tools are 
probably less expensive elsewhere. I think I bought my crimper at Harbor 
Freight. And a good reference on boat electrical systems is 
https://www.amazon.com/Caseys-Complete-Illustrated-Sailboat-Maintenance/dp/0071462848
 - I recommend it. 

Cheers, 
Randy Stafford 
S/V Grenadine 
C&C 30-1 #7 
Ken Caryl, CO 

- Original Message -

From: "Chris Hobson via CnC-List"  
To: "cnc-list"  
Cc: "Chris Hobson"  
Sent: Sunday, July 30, 2017 11:23:32 AM 
Subject: Stus-List Wiring Bilge Direct to Battery 

Need to wire the bilge pump direct to the battery and bypass the distribution 
panel. Currently have to turn battery on for it to work. Simple enough, just 
not something I've done before. Has anyone wired this or know how to install a 
switch (3-way) to do so? No I'm not an electrician and yes I'm aware of the 
consequences of electricity. 

Chris Hobson 
s/v Going 
1980 C&C 30 MK1 
Hull #615 
___ 

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List feckless meanderings - Dylan

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

Boots Of Spanish Leather
WRITTEN BY: BOB DYLAN 
Oh, I’m sailin’ away my own true love
I’m sailin’ away in the morning
Is there something I can send you from across the sea
From the place that I’ll be landing?

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 30, 2017, at 4:33 PM, G Collins via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> The song Mr. Tambourine Man does have the line "take me on a trip upon your 
> magic swirlin' ship", and there is a C&C here with the name Magic Swirlin' 
> Ship
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C&C 35-III #11
>> On 2017-07-30 1:46 PM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List wrote:
>> "I am younger than that now."
>> 
>> Must be a Dylan fan.
>> Does he have any songs about sailboats?  Anything we can adapt to old C&Cs?
>> Finally had a day under 90 F friday and went out sailing.  Winds at 20 with 
>> gusts as high as 28mph; used my 160% genny only and it was a great choice, 
>> although tacking took a while.  Once through the tack, the wind just kept 
>> blowing the bow down.  Had to gain speed and nurse it back to windward.  
>> Downwind was a blast!
>> Ron
>> Wild Cheri
>> C&C 30-1
>> STL
>> 
>> From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>> Cc: Dennis C. 
>> Sent: Saturday, July 29, 2017 5:57 PM
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Rigid boom vangs - rivets vs screws
>> 
>> Too funny. After my post favoring SS rivets, I get to Touché today to see 
>> 1/4 inch Phillips machine screws on the vang bracket. :)
>> 
>> Well, it was many years ago when I installed it; I am younger than that now. 
>> 
>> Dennis C.
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>> On Jul 27, 2017, at 9:08 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> One thing to remember about the Garhauer vang is that the attachment to both 
>> the mast and the boom are custom made for the boat (you send them the 
>> profile of the mast and boom when you order the vang), and the plates 
>> attached to the mast and boom wrap significantly around the spars. (On my 25 
>> about half of the boom is cradled in the attached plate. ) So the fasteners 
>> connecting the plate to the spar are under primarily shear loading, not 
>> tensile.
>>  
>> For this sort of configuration, the additional cross section of the machine 
>> screw (or cap screw, if you use those) would seem the better choice. If, 
>> however, you have something like a Boomkicker, or a vang with “generic” 
>> mounting plates that don’t curve around the spars, rivets might be a better 
>> choice.
>>  
>> Rick Brass
>> Imzadi  C&C 38 mk2 #47
>> la Belle Aurore  C&C 25 mk1 #225
>> Washington, NC
>>  
>> BTW, both have Garhauer vangs.
>>  
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Wiring Bilge Direct to Battery

[Wayne Anstey via CnC-List]

My Rule pump came with a wiring diagram; pretty straight forward.

Sent from my iPad

> On Jul 30, 2017, at 6:25 PM, RANDY via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Hi Chris,
> 
> I just did that this year.  It's straightforward.  You just have to have all 
> the supplies and tools.  On my 30-1 the three-way switches for the bilge 
> pumps (I have two) are mounted under the galley sink, through the plywood 
> separating the starboard lazaret from the space under the galley sink.  If 
> you mount your switch there, you'll need a drill and jigsaw to cut a hole for 
> the switch.
> 
> Then you'll need some ring terminals matching the size of your battery's 
> studs and the size of your wire.  If the wiring on your switch and pump is 
> 16-gauge like mine, it's easiest to get bulk 16-gauge wire in red and black. 
> You'll need some 16-gauge butt connectors to connect the wires on the back of 
> the switch to the wires on the pump and to the wire run over to the battery.  
> And you'll need a wire cutter, wire stripper, and a crimping tool.
> 
> In my case since I have two batteries and two pumps, I mounted terminal 
> strips enclosed in junction boxes to the plywood near the batteries (port 
> side), and near the switches (starboard side).  I connected the positive 
> studs of both batteries to one terminal strip, and the negative studs to the 
> other.  Then I did one run of red and black over to the terminal strips on 
> the starboard side where the pump switch leads connected.  And of course 
> you'll want some cable clamps to run the wires neatly and keep them in place.
> 
> You can get all the stuff you need at West Marine, though the tools are 
> probably less expensive elsewhere.  I think I bought my crimper at Harbor 
> Freight.  And a good reference on boat electrical systems is 
> https://www.amazon.com/Caseys-Complete-Illustrated-Sailboat-Maintenance/dp/0071462848
>  - I recommend it.
> 
> Cheers,
> Randy Stafford
> S/V Grenadine
> C&C 30-1 #7
> Ken Caryl, CO
> 
> From: "Chris Hobson via CnC-List" 
> To: "cnc-list" 
> Cc: "Chris Hobson" 
> Sent: Sunday, July 30, 2017 11:23:32 AM
> Subject: Stus-List Wiring Bilge Direct to Battery
> 
> Need to wire the bilge pump direct to the battery and bypass the distribution 
> panel. Currently have to turn battery on for it to work. Simple enough, just 
> not something I've done before. Has anyone wired this or know how to install 
> a switch (3-way) to do so? No I'm not an electrician and yes I'm aware of the 
> consequences of electricity.
> 
> Chris Hobson
> s/v Going
> 1980 C&C 30 MK1
> Hull #615
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Wiring Bilge Direct to Battery

[Wayne Anstey via CnC-List]

There are also a lot of good videos on YouTube.

Sent from my iPad

> On Jul 30, 2017, at 6:57 PM, Wayne Anstey via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> My Rule pump came with a wiring diagram; pretty straight forward.
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
>> On Jul 30, 2017, at 6:25 PM, RANDY via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> Hi Chris,
>> 
>> I just did that this year.  It's straightforward.  You just have to have all 
>> the supplies and tools.  On my 30-1 the three-way switches for the bilge 
>> pumps (I have two) are mounted under the galley sink, through the plywood 
>> separating the starboard lazaret from the space under the galley sink.  If 
>> you mount your switch there, you'll need a drill and jigsaw to cut a hole 
>> for the switch.
>> 
>> Then you'll need some ring terminals matching the size of your battery's 
>> studs and the size of your wire.  If the wiring on your switch and pump is 
>> 16-gauge like mine, it's easiest to get bulk 16-gauge wire in red and black. 
>> You'll need some 16-gauge butt connectors to connect the wires on the back 
>> of the switch to the wires on the pump and to the wire run over to the 
>> battery.  And you'll need a wire cutter, wire stripper, and a crimping tool.
>> 
>> In my case since I have two batteries and two pumps, I mounted terminal 
>> strips enclosed in junction boxes to the plywood near the batteries (port 
>> side), and near the switches (starboard side).  I connected the positive 
>> studs of both batteries to one terminal strip, and the negative studs to the 
>> other.  Then I did one run of red and black over to the terminal strips on 
>> the starboard side where the pump switch leads connected.  And of course 
>> you'll want some cable clamps to run the wires neatly and keep them in place.
>> 
>> You can get all the stuff you need at West Marine, though the tools are 
>> probably less expensive elsewhere.  I think I bought my crimper at Harbor 
>> Freight.  And a good reference on boat electrical systems is 
>> https://www.amazon.com/Caseys-Complete-Illustrated-Sailboat-Maintenance/dp/0071462848
>>  - I recommend it.
>> 
>> Cheers,
>> Randy Stafford
>> S/V Grenadine
>> C&C 30-1 #7
>> Ken Caryl, CO
>> 
>> From: "Chris Hobson via CnC-List" 
>> To: "cnc-list" 
>> Cc: "Chris Hobson" 
>> Sent: Sunday, July 30, 2017 11:23:32 AM
>> Subject: Stus-List Wiring Bilge Direct to Battery
>> 
>> Need to wire the bilge pump direct to the battery and bypass the 
>> distribution panel. Currently have to turn battery on for it to work. Simple 
>> enough, just not something I've done before. Has anyone wired this or know 
>> how to install a switch (3-way) to do so? No I'm not an electrician and yes 
>> I'm aware of the consequences of electricity.
>> 
>> Chris Hobson
>> s/v Going
>> 1980 C&C 30 MK1
>> Hull #615
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Wiring Bilge Direct to Battery

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

Make sure you put a fuse near battery preferably on both pos and neg side.  
Jerry 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 30, 2017, at 5:25 PM, RANDY via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Hi Chris,
> 
> I just did that this year.  It's straightforward.  You just have to have all 
> the supplies and tools.  On my 30-1 the three-way switches for the bilge 
> pumps (I have two) are mounted under the galley sink, through the plywood 
> separating the starboard lazaret from the space under the galley sink.  If 
> you mount your switch there, you'll need a drill and jigsaw to cut a hole for 
> the switch.
> 
> Then you'll need some ring terminals matching the size of your battery's 
> studs and the size of your wire.  If the wiring on your switch and pump is 
> 16-gauge like mine, it's easiest to get bulk 16-gauge wire in red and black. 
> You'll need some 16-gauge butt connectors to connect the wires on the back of 
> the switch to the wires on the pump and to the wire run over to the battery.  
> And you'll need a wire cutter, wire stripper, and a crimping tool.
> 
> In my case since I have two batteries and two pumps, I mounted terminal 
> strips enclosed in junction boxes to the plywood near the batteries (port 
> side), and near the switches (starboard side).  I connected the positive 
> studs of both batteries to one terminal strip, and the negative studs to the 
> other.  Then I did one run of red and black over to the terminal strips on 
> the starboard side where the pump switch leads connected.  And of course 
> you'll want some cable clamps to run the wires neatly and keep them in place.
> 
> You can get all the stuff you need at West Marine, though the tools are 
> probably less expensive elsewhere.  I think I bought my crimper at Harbor 
> Freight.  And a good reference on boat electrical systems is 
> https://www.amazon.com/Caseys-Complete-Illustrated-Sailboat-Maintenance/dp/0071462848
>  - I recommend it.
> 
> Cheers,
> Randy Stafford
> S/V Grenadine
> C&C 30-1 #7
> Ken Caryl, CO
> 
> From: "Chris Hobson via CnC-List" 
> To: "cnc-list" 
> Cc: "Chris Hobson" 
> Sent: Sunday, July 30, 2017 11:23:32 AM
> Subject: Stus-List Wiring Bilge Direct to Battery
> 
> Need to wire the bilge pump direct to the battery and bypass the distribution 
> panel. Currently have to turn battery on for it to work. Simple enough, just 
> not something I've done before. Has anyone wired this or know how to install 
> a switch (3-way) to do so? No I'm not an electrician and yes I'm aware of the 
> consequences of electricity.
> 
> Chris Hobson
> s/v Going
> 1980 C&C 30 MK1
> Hull #615
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Wiring Bilge Direct to Battery

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Chris,

I prefer to connect the bilge pump's positive supply to one of the battery
posts on the back of the battery switch and keep the wire off the battery.
On the back of your battery switch you'll see 3 posts.  One will be labeled
"1" and one will be labeled "2".  The third is probably labeled "COM".
They correspond to Battery bank 1, Battery Bank 2 and the positive supply
to your breaker panel ("COM").

By attached to 1 or 2 you are in effect, wiring it to one of the
batteries.  Just at the end of the battery supply cable.

Others have given you good advice on the rest of the wiring.

Dennis C.

On Sun, Jul 30, 2017 at 12:23 PM, Chris Hobson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Need to wire the bilge pump direct to the battery and bypass the
> distribution panel. Currently have to turn battery on for it to work.
> Simple enough, just not something I've done before. Has anyone wired this
> or know how to install a switch (3-way) to do so? No I'm not an electrician
> and yes I'm aware of the consequences of electricity.
>
> Chris Hobson
> s/v Going
> 1980 C&C 30 MK1
> Hull #615
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Wiring Bilge Direct to Battery

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Consider wiring so that there are 2 "power supplys".  The float switch can
start the pump directly from the battery and the manual switch can start it
from the normal switch board supply.  This way the auto float switch will
always work.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Jul 30, 2017 1:24 PM, "Chris Hobson via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Need to wire the bilge pump direct to the battery and bypass the
> distribution panel. Currently have to turn battery on for it to work.
> Simple enough, just not something I've done before. Has anyone wired this
> or know how to install a switch (3-way) to do so? No I'm not an electrician
> and yes I'm aware of the consequences of electricity.
>
> Chris Hobson
> s/v Going
> 1980 C&C 30 MK1
> Hull #615
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List 35 MK III

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Eric,

If you are serious about a 35, check out my boat. 
No issues, I plan to haul in late August (or 
earlier if opportunity presents) to do regular 
maintenance. I didn't put in the ad that the 
bottom was prep'd and waterproofed, Intercoat 
2000, with the boat out of the water for 8 months 
many years ago. She shows no blisters at each haulout.


http://www.usednanaimo.com/classified-ad/CC-35-sailboat_29730445
Just across "the Pond" from Vancouver.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet

At 09:51 PM 27/07/2017, you wrote:

Richard:
I recently bought a C&C 35 MkII in Vancouver, Fell in love with the boat. Â

I had a survey done on it. I knew there were 
some issues with it, I had what I thought was a 
very close look at it. As it happens the 
surveyor found a lot more problems to my 
surprise.  so I reluctantly let it go.  I'd go 
for another one in a heartbeat.


I've never had a close look at a Mk III, but 
despite my bitter disappointment I'd say go for 
it if the boat resonates with you.  The key is 
obviously is to make sure you get a purchase 
survey done on it.  The boat I looked at had a 
3 year old insurance survey, and the seller 
suggested it was "still good".  Ha!Â


Before you make an offer, check out the 
availability of marina slips in your area.


Good luck,
Eric



On Thu, Jul 27, 2017 at 7:06 PM, bwhitmore via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
By the way, if you have need of a delivery 
captain who owns a C&C with full credentials, I 
have a good friend who bought my C&C when I left 
Chicago.  He teaches sailing classes and has 
done a number of Great Lakes deliveries.  I am 
sure he would be reasonably priced as well.


Bruce Whitmore
C&C 37/40+
Madeira Beach, FL



Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

 Original message 
From: Richard Gotthardt via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com>

Date: 7/27/17 7:58 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Richard Gotthardt <rlgottha...@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List 35 MK III

Doug,

Nice boat, but my search area is limited to Lake 
Michigan. I don't want to even think about shipping a boat.


Thanks for the offer.

On Thu, Jul 27, 2017 at 6:09 PM, svpegasus38 via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Richard,Â
I have my 1979 Landfall 38 for sale, if your 
interested. I moved up to the landfall 39. At 
least I think it was a move up. :-)Â

Being a 2 boat owner...
http://www.yachtworld.com/core/listing/pl_boat_detail.jsp?&units=Feet&id=3098253&lang=en&slim=broker&&hosturl=westyachts&&ywo=westyachts&;



Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
Doug MountjoyÂ
POYCÂ
PegasusÂ
Lf38Â
Significant OtherÂ
LF39Â

 Original message 
From: Richard Gotthardt via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com>

Date: 7/27/17 13:22 (GMT-08:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Richard Gotthardt <rlgottha...@gmail.com>
Subject: Stus-List 35 MK III

I'm looking for a boat and was wondering if 
there's a "boats for sale" section on 
cncphotoalbum.com ?


Is anyone familiar with this boat, or have any 
comments based on the scant information that's posted?


https://muskegon.craigslist.org/boa/d/cc-mk-iii-sailboat/6235586493.html


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___

This list is supported by the generous donations 
of our members. If you wish to make a 
contribution to offset our costs, please go 
to:Â  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations 
of our members. If you wish to make a 
contribution to offset our costs, please go 
to:  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!