Re: Stus-List 37/40+ fuel tank clean out

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

Thanks, Gary, I'll try the fuel sender. Is it a gasket or  oring?

Cheers, Al


> On Jul 31, 2017, at 11:49 AM, Bill Dakin via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Please be careful.  A dock of 20 power boats burned up two weeks ago from 
> someone doing this.  Everything grounded with a large Type B at the ready.
> Bill Dakin
> C&C25MKII
> S/V Tapestry
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.kxii.com/content/news/Highport-Marina-says-fire-started-from-man-pouring-out-gas-tank-436840283.html
> 
>> On Mon, Jul 31, 2017 at 11:52 AM, Alan Liles via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> I'm currently trying to clean my fuel tank. I've pumped out all I can get 
>> through the engine fuel supply line. I'm planning on sucking the bottom out 
>> through the full line. My question, to all you 37+ owners, is; Is there a 
>> cleanout port on the top of the tank? I don't want to remove the berth and 
>> find that I have to remove the tank to get it clean. That's a job for the 
>> off season.
>> 
>> Al Liles
>> SV Elendil
>> C&C 37/40+
>> Vancouver
>> 
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Re: Stus-List Wanted to buy: 34+/36xl, 110, or 37+/40

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

I helped a friend bring his Amel up from the Baha last year. What a cushy
ride.  I brought my racing gloves assuming I would be handling lines.  The
most work I did was push buttons. Roll the sail out. Roll the sail in.Trim
the sail in. Let it out.  All motorized. This is a boat with a main, genoa
and mizzen. I got a blister on my finger.
All the comforts of home. Wash, dryer. Huge refrigerator/ freezing.  Umm
cold beer.  Three air conditioning systems.
I brought my foul weather gear.  Sitting under the hard dodger I had to put
on a long sleeve shirt on the midnight watch when it was blowing 25 to 30.
If I went  long term cruising I would like to have a boat like the Amel.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C&C 44
Portland, Or



On Aug 2, 2017 4:27 PM, "Josh Muckley via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> TARTAN 3700 is very similar to 37+  or 37/40
>
> Hunter Legend series are well appointed and have low PHRFs.  I was quite
> envious of the 45 footer.
>
> I could be found cheating on my 37+ with a Grand Soleil 46.3
> http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1998/Grand-Soleil-46.3-
> 3056563/Seattle/WA/United-States
>
> I fell in love with the GS46.3 when I saw S/V Sea Wolf at Delaware City
> Marina.
> https://m.facebook.com/SeawolfAdventure/?_rdr
>
> Of course there is the Amel Super Maramu 2000.  Maybe not the fastest...
> Maybe not even the prettiest, but boy are they well built and capable boats.
>
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
> On Aug 2, 2017 5:37 PM, "Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>  I am putting feelers out there to see if you or someone you know may be
> getting ready / or willing to sell either the 36xl, 110, or 37/40xl soon or
> before summer 2018.  My wife and I (and 2 yr old & 1month old sons) are
> starting to look at our next boat. We've looked at the 36xl and the 37+/40,
> but have not sailed either boat.Here are our particulars:
>
>- We are Pacific Northwest sailors out of Oregon.
>- We currently have a 30 mkII, which we love, but the boys are
>cramping our space already.
>- Primarily we cruise the Columbia River, year round, but are planning
>on keeping the boat in South Puget Sound summer 2018 and running it up and
>down the coast back to Oregon Spring and Fall.
>- We double hand, with lots of single handing as well.
>- I race at least once a week and get a few ocean races in during the
>year. I would like to race our next boat occasionally on some double handed
>ocean races and occasional buoy race, but it is not completely necessary as
>there are always other boats I can race with.
>- We generally spend every other weekend on the boat throughout most
>of the year, so we spend more time aboard than most.
>- I don't want a 'fixer' as I feel it is a waste of time and money.
>- We don't want a shoal draft.
>- An aft cabin is a must for us, which puts most everything
>pre-1988 out of consideration as far as I can tell
>- Open to other brands (dare I say) but prefer to stay C&C.
>
> Let me know if you have any ideas.
>
> Best,
> Kevin
>
> ___
>
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> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
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>
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> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Wanted to buy: 34+/36xl, 110, or 37+/40

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

TARTAN 3700 is very similar to 37+  or 37/40

Hunter Legend series are well appointed and have low PHRFs.  I was quite
envious of the 45 footer.

I could be found cheating on my 37+ with a Grand Soleil 46.3
http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1998/Grand-Soleil-46.3-3056563/Seattle/WA/United-States

I fell in love with the GS46.3 when I saw S/V Sea Wolf at Delaware City
Marina.
https://m.facebook.com/SeawolfAdventure/?_rdr

Of course there is the Amel Super Maramu 2000.  Maybe not the fastest...
Maybe not even the prettiest, but boy are they well built and capable boats.


Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Aug 2, 2017 5:37 PM, "Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List" 
wrote:

 I am putting feelers out there to see if you or someone you know may be
getting ready / or willing to sell either the 36xl, 110, or 37/40xl soon or
before summer 2018.  My wife and I (and 2 yr old & 1month old sons) are
starting to look at our next boat. We've looked at the 36xl and the 37+/40,
but have not sailed either boat.Here are our particulars:

   - We are Pacific Northwest sailors out of Oregon.
   - We currently have a 30 mkII, which we love, but the boys are cramping
   our space already.
   - Primarily we cruise the Columbia River, year round, but are planning
   on keeping the boat in South Puget Sound summer 2018 and running it up and
   down the coast back to Oregon Spring and Fall.
   - We double hand, with lots of single handing as well.
   - I race at least once a week and get a few ocean races in during the
   year. I would like to race our next boat occasionally on some double handed
   ocean races and occasional buoy race, but it is not completely necessary as
   there are always other boats I can race with.
   - We generally spend every other weekend on the boat throughout most of
   the year, so we spend more time aboard than most.
   - I don't want a 'fixer' as I feel it is a waste of time and money.
   - We don't want a shoal draft.
   - An aft cabin is a must for us, which puts most everything pre-1988 out
   of consideration as far as I can tell
   - Open to other brands (dare I say) but prefer to stay C&C.

Let me know if you have any ideas.

Best,
Kevin

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Re: Stus-List Wanted to buy: 34+/36xl, 110, or 37+/40

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Did you look at "Rogues Roost" listed for sale in Vancouver?

Unfortunately it is "Sale Pending" now, according to the add.

http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1993/C%26C-37-40-Plus-
3090987/Vancouver/Canada#.WYJTo4TytaQ


Ken Heaton & Anne Tobin
S/V Salazar - Can 54955
C&C 37/40 XL - Hull # 67
Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia


On 2 August 2017 at 18:36, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>  I am putting feelers out there to see if you or someone you know may be
> getting ready / or willing to sell either the 36xl, 110, or 37/40xl soon or
> before summer 2018.  My wife and I (and 2 yr old & 1month old sons) are
> starting to look at our next boat. We've looked at the 36xl and the 37+/40,
> but have not sailed either boat.Here are our particulars:
>
>- We are Pacific Northwest sailors out of Oregon.
>- We currently have a 30 mkII, which we love, but the boys are
>cramping our space already.
>- Primarily we cruise the Columbia River, year round, but are planning
>on keeping the boat in South Puget Sound summer 2018 and running it up and
>down the coast back to Oregon Spring and Fall.
>- We double hand, with lots of single handing as well.
>- I race at least once a week and get a few ocean races in during the
>year. I would like to race our next boat occasionally on some double handed
>ocean races and occasional buoy race, but it is not completely necessary as
>there are always other boats I can race with.
>- We generally spend every other weekend on the boat throughout most
>of the year, so we spend more time aboard than most.
>- I don't want a 'fixer' as I feel it is a waste of time and money.
>- We don't want a shoal draft.
>- An aft cabin is a must for us, which puts most everything
>pre-1988 out of consideration as far as I can tell
>- Open to other brands (dare I say) but prefer to stay C&C.
>
> Let me know if you have any ideas.
>
> Best,
> Kevin
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Stus-List Wanted to buy: 34+/36xl, 110, or 37+/40

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

 I am putting feelers out there to see if you or someone you know may be
getting ready / or willing to sell either the 36xl, 110, or 37/40xl soon or
before summer 2018.  My wife and I (and 2 yr old & 1month old sons) are
starting to look at our next boat. We've looked at the 36xl and the 37+/40,
but have not sailed either boat.Here are our particulars:

   - We are Pacific Northwest sailors out of Oregon.
   - We currently have a 30 mkII, which we love, but the boys are cramping
   our space already.
   - Primarily we cruise the Columbia River, year round, but are planning
   on keeping the boat in South Puget Sound summer 2018 and running it up and
   down the coast back to Oregon Spring and Fall.
   - We double hand, with lots of single handing as well.
   - I race at least once a week and get a few ocean races in during the
   year. I would like to race our next boat occasionally on some double handed
   ocean races and occasional buoy race, but it is not completely necessary as
   there are always other boats I can race with.
   - We generally spend every other weekend on the boat throughout most of
   the year, so we spend more time aboard than most.
   - I don't want a 'fixer' as I feel it is a waste of time and money.
   - We don't want a shoal draft.
   - An aft cabin is a must for us, which puts most everything pre-1988 out
   of consideration as far as I can tell
   - Open to other brands (dare I say) but prefer to stay C&C.

Let me know if you have any ideas.

Best,
Kevin
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Re: Stus-List Re-routing cockpit drain lines

[Neil Andersen via CnC-List]

On my C&C 32, the hoses cross so the port scupper exits on the starboard side

Neil
1982 C&C32

Neil Andersen
20691 Jamieson Rd
Rock Hall, MD 21661

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Matthew L. Wolford 
via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, August 2, 2017 12:31:21 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Matthew L. Wolford
Subject: Re: Stus-List Re-routing cockpit drain lines

I’ve often wondered if that configuration is a good or bad idea.  Seems to me 
that the cockpit may not drain as well when heeled over a lot because the 
thru-hull on the other side will be higher.  Any other thoughts on this issue?

From: Lee Rosenbaum via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, August 02, 2017 12:22 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Lee Rosenbaum
Subject: Re: Stus-List Re-routing cockpit drain lines

Barbara,

On our 33 MK2, the cockpit drain lines are cross routed to through hulls 
(port/starboard hull beneath cockpit.
This way when the boat is heeled over water can not come up the drain line.

Regards,
Lee
Kookaburra
1985 33 MK2
Kenosha, WI


Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2017 07:48:46 -0400
From: David Paine mailto:paineda...@gmail.com>>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Re-routing cockpit drain lines


Hi Barbara,

I have a 33-1 with the same configuration.  I don't see any need to change
it as It works well for draining small amounts of water.   However, when
you need to empty the cockpit in a hurry, say when its been filled after
being pooped by a breaking wave, you need more drain cross-section.  I
added a 2" (or maybe its 1.5") drain from the cockpit aft bulkhead (as
close to the cockpit floor as possible) angled down slightly to the
transom.   I can tell you that the last time I was up to my knees in water,
I was pleased to have the extra drainage!

Best,

David



On Tue, Aug 1, 2017 at 6:37 PM, Barbara L. Hickson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> On my '76 33-1, the cockpit drains into thru hulls with inline ball valves
> in a y configuration below the cockpit floor and then straight down thru
> the hull, well beneath the waterline. It appears from line drawings that
> this is the only practical configuration. If the drains were rerouted to
> either side of the hull or to the stern above the waterline, there would a)
> not be enough slope, and b) the outlets would allow water back into the
> cockpit when heeling or with a following wave.
> Has anyone done this, or am I correct in my assessment?  Has anyone used
> marelon replacement flanged seacocks?  Their video says they are to be
> screwed only to a backing plate and not screwed all the way thru the hull.
> Seems like a good solution if it works.
> Thx for any input.
> Barbara Hickson
> "Flight Risk" '76 33-1
> Charleston, SC



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Re: Stus-List feckless meanderings - Dylan

[JP Mail via CnC-List]

Two good boat names there.
Mystery Tramp and Alibi.
J

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 1, 2017, at 7:43 PM, sender via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Ahhh... so maybe Bob Dylan was a Yacht Broker before got into music??
> 
> You say you never compromise
> With the mystery tramp, but now you realize
> He's not selling any alibis
> As you stare into the vacuum of his eyes
> And say: Do you want to make a deal?
> 
>> On Sun, Jul 30, 2017 at 2:42 PM, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Boots Of Spanish Leather
>> WRITTEN BY: BOB DYLAN 
>> Oh, I’m sailin’ away my own true love
>> I’m sailin’ away in the morning
>> Is there something I can send you from across the sea
>> From the place that I’ll be landing?
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On Jul 30, 2017, at 4:33 PM, G Collins via CnC-List  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> The song Mr. Tambourine Man does have the line "take me on a trip upon your 
>>> magic swirlin' ship", and there is a C&C here with the name Magic Swirlin' 
>>> Ship
>>> Graham Collins
>>> Secret Plans
>>> C&C 35-III #11
 On 2017-07-30 1:46 PM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List wrote:
 "I am younger than that now."
 
 Must be a Dylan fan.
 Does he have any songs about sailboats?  Anything we can adapt to old C&Cs?
 Finally had a day under 90 F friday and went out sailing.  Winds at 20 
 with gusts as high as 28mph; used my 160% genny only and it was a great 
 choice, although tacking took a while.  Once through the tack, the wind 
 just kept blowing the bow down.  Had to gain speed and nurse it back to 
 windward.  Downwind was a blast!
 Ron
 Wild Cheri
 C&C 30-1
 STL
 
 From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 Cc: Dennis C. 
 Sent: Saturday, July 29, 2017 5:57 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Rigid boom vangs - rivets vs screws
 
 Too funny. After my post favoring SS rivets, I get to Touché today to see 
 1/4 inch Phillips machine screws on the vang bracket. :)
 
 Well, it was many years ago when I installed it; I am younger than that 
 now. 
 
 Dennis C.
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 
 On Jul 27, 2017, at 9:08 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List 
  wrote:
 
 One thing to remember about the Garhauer vang is that the attachment to 
 both the mast and the boom are custom made for the boat (you send them the 
 profile of the mast and boom when you order the vang), and the plates 
 attached to the mast and boom wrap significantly around the spars. (On my 
 25 about half of the boom is cradled in the attached plate. ) So the 
 fasteners connecting the plate to the spar are under primarily shear 
 loading, not tensile.
  
 For this sort of configuration, the additional cross section of the 
 machine screw (or cap screw, if you use  those) would seem the better 
 choice. If, however, you have something like a Boomkicker, or a vang with 
 “generic” mounting plates that don’t curve around the spars, rivets might 
 be a better choice.
  
 Rick Brass
 Imzadi  C&C 38 mk2 #47
 la Belle Aurore  C&C 25 mk1 #225
 Washington, NC
  
 BTW, both have Garhauer vangs.
  
 
 
 
 ___
 
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 wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
 https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
 All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
>>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
> 
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> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Clogged icebox drain

[JP Mail via CnC-List]

On a previous boat I had a friend spray a pressure washer into the through hull 
while boat was on stands. Of course I was in the galley staring at the drain. 
Yeah, just going to say don't do that. 
Jon Pratt
Hideaway 35-3

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 2, 2017, at 3:21 AM, Allen White via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I had the same situation with the drain on my 26. When all efforts of 
> snaking, vacuuming, and applying compressed air from both ends failed, I 
> resorted to cutting an access hole into the inaccessible area below the 
> icebox for a peek. Somehow the hose got twisted 360 degrees and was simply 
> "kinked".  Try twisting the hose 1 turn in either direction with a quntity of 
> water in the box. You'll know pretty quickly if you get it freed.
> 
> Allen White
> '77 C&C 26  Aura
> Rhinebeck, NY 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
> cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
> Sent: Wednesday, August 02, 2017 1:44 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 139, Issue 14
> 
> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
>cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
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Re: Stus-List clogged refrigerator drain

[David Kaseler via CnC-List]

Have you tried a toilet plunger. These old fashioned tools create a lot of 
suction if there is some standing water in the icebox. Worked for me.
Dave.
SLY
1975 C&C 33

Sent from my iPad

> On Aug 2, 2017, at 4:08 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> The hose ends under the sink. Not easy to find or clean. Start with dish soap 
> and a plunger. 
> 
> Joel 
> 
>> On Wed, Aug 2, 2017 at 12:35 AM Russ & Melody via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> I would try to clear it with a "shop-vac" from the ice box side of things. 
>> You will probably need to neck down the vac hose to be effective.
>> 
>> The idea being that something went down to clog the hose FROM this opening.
>> 
>> Cheers, Russ
>> Sweet 35 mk-1
>> 
>> At 09:23 PM 01/08/2017, you wrote:
>>> Another question. My refrigerator drain is clogged and it doesn’t seem to 
>>> be a simple hose connection. There seems to be something under the 
>>> refrigerator drain before the hose, but I can’t see how to get to it 
>>> without pulling apart the boat. This is on a 35 Mk3 My favorite way to 
>>> clear clogs these days is a steal cable casing in a drill but I don’t 
>>> think that will work here. There seems to be a pan/plate blocking access 
>>> from the refrigerator end. I will likely try to go the other way from the 
>>> end of the hose that dumps under the sink into the bilge. Still, I would 
>>> like to know what’s going on under the drain. Anyone have any experience 
>>> with this? Thanks in advance. Matthew Schlanger The Office C&C 35 Mk3 
>>> Nyack, NY ___ This list is 
>>> supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a 
>>> contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> ___
>> 
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> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
> ___
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Re: Stus-List Re-routing cockpit drain lines

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

I’ve often wondered if that configuration is a good or bad idea.  Seems to me 
that the cockpit may not drain as well when heeled over a lot because the 
thru-hull on the other side will be higher.  Any other thoughts on this issue?

From: Lee Rosenbaum via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, August 02, 2017 12:22 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Lee Rosenbaum 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Re-routing cockpit drain lines

Barbara,

On our 33 MK2, the cockpit drain lines are cross routed to through hulls 
(port/starboard hull beneath cockpit. 
This way when the boat is heeled over water can not come up the drain line.

Regards,
Lee
Kookaburra
1985 33 MK2
Kenosha, WI


  Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2017 07:48:46 -0400
  From: David Paine 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Re-routing cockpit drain lines


  Hi Barbara,

  I have a 33-1 with the same configuration.  I don't see any need to change
  it as It works well for draining small amounts of water.   However, when
  you need to empty the cockpit in a hurry, say when its been filled after
  being pooped by a breaking wave, you need more drain cross-section.  I
  added a 2" (or maybe its 1.5") drain from the cockpit aft bulkhead (as
  close to the cockpit floor as possible) angled down slightly to the
  transom.   I can tell you that the last time I was up to my knees in water,
  I was pleased to have the extra drainage!

  Best,

  David



  On Tue, Aug 1, 2017 at 6:37 PM, Barbara L. Hickson via CnC-List <
  cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

  > On my '76 33-1, the cockpit drains into thru hulls with inline ball valves
  > in a y configuration below the cockpit floor and then straight down thru
  > the hull, well beneath the waterline. It appears from line drawings that
  > this is the only practical configuration. If the drains were rerouted to
  > either side of the hull or to the stern above the waterline, there would a)
  > not be enough slope, and b) the outlets would allow water back into the
  > cockpit when heeling or with a following wave.
  > Has anyone done this, or am I correct in my assessment?  Has anyone used
  > marelon replacement flanged seacocks?  Their video says they are to be
  > screwed only to a backing plate and not screwed all the way thru the hull.
  > Seems like a good solution if it works.
  > Thx for any input.
  > Barbara Hickson
  > "Flight Risk" '76 33-1
  > Charleston, SC





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Re: Stus-List Re-routing cockpit drain lines

[William Walker via CnC-List]

But can it drain when heeled?
Bill Walker 
CnC  36
Pentwater,  Mi 

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Wednesday, August 2, 2017 Lee Rosenbaum via CnC-List  
wrote:

Barbara,


On our 33 MK2, the cockpit drain lines are cross routed to through hulls 
(port/starboard hull beneath cockpit.

This way when the boat is heeled over water can not come up the drain line.


Regards,

Lee

Kookaburra

1985 33 MK2

Kenosha, WI



Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2017 07:48:46 -0400
From: David Paine 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Re-routing cockpit drain lines


Hi Barbara,

I have a 33-1 with the same configuration.  I don't see any need to change
it as It works well for draining small amounts of water.   However, when
you need to empty the cockpit in a hurry, say when its been filled after
being pooped by a breaking wave, you need more drain cross-section.  I
added a 2" (or maybe its 1.5") drain from the cockpit aft bulkhead (as
close to the cockpit floor as possible) angled down slightly to the
transom.   I can tell you that the last time I was up to my knees in water,
I was pleased to have the extra drainage!

Best,

David



On Tue, Aug 1, 2017 at 6:37 PM, Barbara L. Hickson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> On my '76 33-1, the cockpit drains into thru hulls with inline ball valves
> in a y configuration below the cockpit floor and then straight down thru
> the hull, well beneath the waterline. It appears from line drawings that
> this is the only practical configuration. If the drains were rerouted to
> either side of the hull or to the stern above the waterline, there would a)
> not be enough slope, and b) the outlets would allow water back into the
> cockpit when heeling or with a following wave.
> Has anyone done this, or am I correct in my assessment?  Has anyone used
> marelon replacement flanged seacocks?  Their video says they are to be
> screwed only to a backing plate and not screwed all the way thru the hull.
> Seems like a good solution if it works.
> Thx for any input.
> Barbara Hickson
> "Flight Risk" '76 33-1
> Charleston, SC

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Re: Stus-List Re-routing cockpit drain lines

[Lee Rosenbaum via CnC-List]

Barbara,

On our 33 MK2, the cockpit drain lines are cross routed to through hulls
(port/starboard hull beneath cockpit.
This way when the boat is heeled over water can not come up the drain line.

Regards,
Lee
Kookaburra
1985 33 MK2
Kenosha, WI


> Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2017 07:48:46 -0400
> From: David Paine 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Re-routing cockpit drain lines
>
>
> Hi Barbara,
>
> I have a 33-1 with the same configuration.  I don't see any need to change
> it as It works well for draining small amounts of water.   However, when
> you need to empty the cockpit in a hurry, say when its been filled after
> being pooped by a breaking wave, you need more drain cross-section.  I
> added a 2" (or maybe its 1.5") drain from the cockpit aft bulkhead (as
> close to the cockpit floor as possible) angled down slightly to the
> transom.   I can tell you that the last time I was up to my knees in water,
> I was pleased to have the extra drainage!
>
> Best,
>
> David
>
>
>
> On Tue, Aug 1, 2017 at 6:37 PM, Barbara L. Hickson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> > On my '76 33-1, the cockpit drains into thru hulls with inline ball
> valves
> > in a y configuration below the cockpit floor and then straight down thru
> > the hull, well beneath the waterline. It appears from line drawings that
> > this is the only practical configuration. If the drains were rerouted to
> > either side of the hull or to the stern above the waterline, there would
> a)
> > not be enough slope, and b) the outlets would allow water back into the
> > cockpit when heeling or with a following wave.
> > Has anyone done this, or am I correct in my assessment?  Has anyone used
> > marelon replacement flanged seacocks?  Their video says they are to be
> > screwed only to a backing plate and not screwed all the way thru the
> hull.
> > Seems like a good solution if it works.
> > Thx for any input.
> > Barbara Hickson
> > "Flight Risk" '76 33-1
> > Charleston, SC
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Clogged icebox drain

[Allen White via CnC-List]

I had the same situation with the drain on my 26. When all efforts of snaking, 
vacuuming, and applying compressed air from both ends failed, I resorted to 
cutting an access hole into the inaccessible area below the icebox for a peek. 
Somehow the hose got twisted 360 degrees and was simply "kinked".  Try twisting 
the hose 1 turn in either direction with a quntity of water in the box. You'll 
know pretty quickly if you get it freed.

Allen White
'77 C&C 26  Aura
Rhinebeck, NY 

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 02, 2017 1:44 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 139, Issue 14

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Re: Stus-List Diesel in bilge

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

FWIW, I also re-fuel using 5-gallon cans unless I’m going on a long trip.  I 
try to plan it so I use up older fuel each season.  Has worked so far, but my 
fuel gauge stopped working this season and I’m starting to get a little nervous 
about how much is in there.

From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2017 3:30 PM
To: C&C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Diesel in bilge

Remember too that if there is fuel in the fill hose that there is fuel in the 
vent hose.  Often times the vent hose isn't inspected or replaced at the same 
periodicity. 

Main Sailor did some experimenting with fuel tanks and condensation.  FWIW he 
did not find that any more condensation accumulated in a partial tank.  As such 
I take a different approach to fueling my boat.  Typically I won't use the 
entire 40 gallon capacity of my tank in a single year.  So unless I'm going on 
a long trip I only fuel up with 10 to 15 gallons.  I try to plan it so that I 
can fill via jerry cans through a filter funnel.  At roughly 1 gallon per hour 
I know that I'm good for 10+ hours at full load.  It only takes about 30 
minutes to motor out and motor in so I get a minimum of 10 day sails between 
fill ups and that is very conservative.  By filling in this manner my fuel 
always stays fresh and any minor contaminants will get diluted by the next fill 
up.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD 

On Aug 1, 2017 9:23 AM, "robert via CnC-List"  wrote:

  Sailed yesterday, got back to the slip, crack open a beer but smell diesel 
fuel in the cabin. Check the bilge and there is about 500 mls of fluid 
there..half water and half dieselI take it out with a sponge, first in 
a clear plastic container where you can clearly see two different liquids then 
pour it in a plastic bottle to dispose at our recycle depot at the club.   The 
bottle holds 555 mls and it was almost full so I know how much diesel there 
was. Couldn't find the source yesterday.  The other day, I filled the fuel 
tank, over filled it almost to the deck.   Thinking it may have expanded in the 
heat but it should have gone overboard from the overfill hose.  Bottom of fuel 
tank was dry.   No loss of engine power so the fuel line doesn't seem to be 
leaking.   Mystery???

  Any ideas where I should concentrate on for the source of it?

  Rob Abbott
  AZURA
  C&C 32 - 84
  Halifax, N.S.


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Re: Stus-List 73 30 MK1 Bilge Pump

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Is it possible you have a diaphragm pump?  If that is the case the pump is not 
in the bilge and higher ... follow the hose and you would find the pump.  Mine 
is in the cupboard beneath head sink.

Mike
Persistence


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Steven A. 
Demore via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2017 9:08 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Steven A. Demore
Subject: Stus-List 73 30 MK1 Bilge Pump

While we're having so many conversations on bilge pumps, I have another 
question for you.  I picked up a project  '73 30' MK 1.  There is a float 
switch in the bilge, right under the forward access hole.  There are wires 
leading forward through the bilge toward the mast, as well as a hose that leads 
out of the bilge, around the head, up the wall by the holding tank, and out 
through a drain at the top of the hull (I had assumed it to be a vent 
previously).  I have reached up through the bilge as far as I can, put a camera 
in there and took some pictures, used a mirror and flashlight, everything I 
could think of (I don't have a borescope), but I can't find the pump or the end 
of the hose/wires.  Does anybody know how to access the pump and whether it is 
screwed down?  It almost has to be forward of the mast, but I can't reach it.  
I don't want to pull too hard on the hose, but I need to find the pump and see 
what kind of shape it is in.  Any ideas?
Thanks,
Steve
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Re: Stus-List Re-routing cockpit drain lines

[David Paine via CnC-List]

Hi Barbara,

I have a 33-1 with the same configuration.  I don't see any need to change
it as It works well for draining small amounts of water.   However, when
you need to empty the cockpit in a hurry, say when its been filled after
being pooped by a breaking wave, you need more drain cross-section.  I
added a 2" (or maybe its 1.5") drain from the cockpit aft bulkhead (as
close to the cockpit floor as possible) angled down slightly to the
transom.   I can tell you that the last time I was up to my knees in water,
I was pleased to have the extra drainage!

Best,

David



On Tue, Aug 1, 2017 at 6:37 PM, Barbara L. Hickson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> On my '76 33-1, the cockpit drains into thru hulls with inline ball valves
> in a y configuration below the cockpit floor and then straight down thru
> the hull, well beneath the waterline. It appears from line drawings that
> this is the only practical configuration. If the drains were rerouted to
> either side of the hull or to the stern above the waterline, there would a)
> not be enough slope, and b) the outlets would allow water back into the
> cockpit when heeling or with a following wave.
> Has anyone done this, or am I correct in my assessment?  Has anyone used
> marelon replacement flanged seacocks?  Their video says they are to be
> screwed only to a backing plate and not screwed all the way thru the hull.
> Seems like a good solution if it works.
> Thx for any input.
> Barbara Hickson
> "Flight Risk" '76 33-1
> Charleston, SC
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List clogged refrigerator drain

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

The hose ends under the sink. Not easy to find or clean. Start with dish
soap and a plunger.

Joel

On Wed, Aug 2, 2017 at 12:35 AM Russ & Melody via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> I would try to clear it with a "shop-vac" from the ice box side of things.
> You will probably need to neck down the vac hose to be effective.
>
> The idea being that something went down to clog the hose FROM this opening.
>
> Cheers, Russ
> *Sweet *35 mk-1
>
> At 09:23 PM 01/08/2017, you wrote:
>
> Another question. My refrigerator drain is clogged and it doesn’t seem
> to be a simple hose connection. There seems to be something under the
> refrigerator drain before the hose, but I can’t see how to get to it
> without pulling apart the boat. This is on a 35 Mk3 My favorite way to
> clear clogs these days is a steal cable casing in a drill but I don’t
> think that will work here. There seems to be a pan/plate blocking access
> from the refrigerator end. I will likely try to go the other way from the
> end of the hose that dumps under the sink into the bilge. Still, I would
> like to know what’s going on under the drain. Anyone have any experience
> with this? Thanks in advance. Matthew Schlanger The Office C&C 35 Mk3
> Nyack, NY ___ This list is
> supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a
> contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly
> appreciated!
>
> ___
>
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> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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