Re: Stus-List 30-1 Cunningham

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Randy, in a purchase system only one of the blocks is fixed.  Such as at
the mast collar.  The other block of the purchase system moves as you
adjust the Cunningham and the hook is attached to this block.  I took it
one step further and ran a line through the cringle and attached the line
to the boom.  My 4 to 1 block and tackle is pulling on a 2 to 1 line
through the sail resulting in a 8 to 1 ratio.  It is easy to hand tension.

Maybe a picture will help.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yRmJZSUtwSWR0ZUU/view?usp=drivesdk

You can easily see the 4:1 (I actually think it adds up to 5:1) with the
dark green w/white fleck pulling down on the white w/green fleck and red
tracer.  What you can't see is that the white line runs through the sail
about a foot above the tack and then attaches to the boom (tack pin for
convenience).

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yRDdIMENkSmE4U3M/view?usp=drivesdk

The weight rating of the blocks you choose is irrelevant.  It is completely
unnecessary to apply any more than 200 or 300 lbs of tension at most.
Extreme luff tension is more likely to damage the sail than improve sail
shape.  At 300 lbs you'd pull 30 to 75lbs by hand depending on the final
purchase ratio.  You'll care more about the size of the line you choose
based on stops, jammers, cleats, winches, and feel in the hand - the block
rating will convey based on line diameter.  5/16ths is probably as small as
you will want to go for feel but 1/4 would work fine too as long as your
other equipment can support.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Fri, Nov 24, 2017, 9:00 PM Randy Stafford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Thanks Dennis.  I’ve got the cunningham, just not the purchase.  Mine goes
> from hook in cunningham cringle down to cheek block at mast base, back up
> to jam cleat on mast.  I also use it to reef.
>
> The two other blocks listed in the owner’s manual table I’m sure gave it
> 4:1 purchase.  I’m guessing the one with the becket may have been shackled
> to the mast collar, and the other one fastened up near the gooseneck
> somehow - that’s the bit of info I’m missing.
>
> Cheers,
> Randy
>
>
> On Nov 24, 2017, at 5:53 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Randy,
>
> You can make your own easily enough.  Touche' uses a couple of small
> Ronstan fiddle blocks and a cunningham hook.
>
> I fastened a padeye at the base of the mast.  I had to add a base under
> the padeye to stand the block off the mast a bit.  A fiddle block with
> becket is attached to the padeye via the block's shackle.  Above it is
> another fiddle block.  Attached to the upper fiddle's  shackle is a length
> of high tech line with a cunningham/reef hook.  The purchase is 4:1 for
> easy control.
>
> The cunningham sheet runs after to a Spinlock Powercleat (older version of
> a Spinlock PXR cam cleat).
>
> You can see the lower block on the aft side of the mast here (right side
> of pic):
>
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsSlRKb1pDdHdoSW8
>
> We also use the cunningham to reef the main.
>
> I'll be on the boat in a couple days if you want better pics.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Fri, Nov 24, 2017 at 5:21 PM, Randy Stafford via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Listers (especially 30-1 owners) -
>>
>> The 30-1 owners manual Table 4, “C 30 Blocks”, lists one 1750-lb single
>> block, one 1750-lb single block with becket, and one 1200-lb cheek block
>> for cunningham usage.  Grenadine doesn’t have the 1750-lb single blocks for
>> her cunningham; just the cheek block at the starboard base of the mast, and
>> a jam cleat a few feet up from there.  How was the cunningham on a 30-1
>> originally rigged, does anyone know?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Randy Stafford
>> S/V Grenadine
>> C 30-1 #7
>> Ken Caryl, CO
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 30-1 Cunningham

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Mine is different - there's a pad eye on the port side of the mast about 4 feet 
off the deck. A line is tied to that which goes through the cringle in the main 
- not the one for reefing, but one about a foot above the foot of the main. 
That line ends with a block on the starboard side of the main, just hanging 
there. There are two cheek blocks on the starboard side of the mast, about two 
feet apart and facing each other and one has a becket . (I am taking some 
liberties here because the mast is out of the boat and on a rack about 10 feet 
in the air and it is a bit tough to imagine while on a ladder). A line comes 
from the becket, up to one of the cheek blocks, back down and through the block 
on the end of the "cringle" line and then through the other cheek block and 
then to a cam cleat. There is nothing at the base of the mast for the 
Cunningham. I assume it was as delivered.

Gary
1980 #593 

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Randy 
Stafford via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, November 24, 2017 6:22 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Randy Stafford 
Subject: Stus-List 30-1 Cunningham

Listers (especially 30-1 owners) - 

The 30-1 owners manual Table 4, “C 30 Blocks”, lists one 1750-lb single 
block, one 1750-lb single block with becket, and one 1200-lb cheek block for 
cunningham usage.  Grenadine doesn’t have the 1750-lb single blocks for her 
cunningham; just the cheek block at the starboard base of the mast, and a jam 
cleat a few feet up from there.  How was the cunningham on a 30-1 originally 
rigged, does anyone know?

Thanks,
Randy Stafford
S/V Grenadine
C 30-1 #7
Ken Caryl, CO
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Espar furnace repairs

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

Nice video, thanks for sharing. 

Rick
37+  Paikea
Tacoma, WA

> On Nov 24, 2017, at 8:22 AM, Dan via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> If anyone is interested in how to re-commission an old espar furnace back 
> into service, I posted a full DIY video on it this week with step by step 
> instructions. My furnace is circa 1989/1992 era and I was able to get it 
> going again after being dormant for 10-15 years mounted near the transom!! 
> It's been running flawlessly for 3 weeks now, very happy and warm on board.
> 
> Here is the video:
> https://youtu.be/H7EKuaQbU5g 
> 
> Dan Cormier
> S/V Breakaweigh (soon to be Balachandra)
> 1986 C
> Halifax, NS
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Espar furnace repairs

[David via CnC-List]

This is awesome. Now that the boat is covered the next project is resurrecting 
a long dormant Espar. I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks



Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone


 Original message 
From: Dan via CnC-List 
Date: 11/24/17 11:23 (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dan 
Subject: Stus-List Espar furnace repairs

If anyone is interested in how to re-commission an old espar furnace back into 
service, I posted a full DIY video on it this week with step by step 
instructions. My furnace is circa 1989/1992 era and I was able to get it going 
again after being dormant for 10-15 years mounted near the transom!! It's been 
running flawlessly for 3 weeks now, very happy and warm on board.

Here is the video:
https://youtu.be/H7EKuaQbU5g

Dan Cormier
S/V Breakaweigh (soon to be Balachandra)
1986 C
Halifax, NS
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Espar furnace repairs

[Daniel Cormier via CnC-List]

Oh my god, that's a ridiculously short lifespan for an electric motor... I hope 
they're still available... did you have to do that before?

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 25, 2017, at 7:18 AM, John Pennie via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Just know you will need to replace the bower motor after 1000 hrs or on the 
> coldest night of the year - whichever comes first :)
> 
> John
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
>> On Nov 25, 2017, at 12:40 AM, Daniel Cormier via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> I need this thing to last all winter so to avoid the risk of creating 
>> problems, if the power goes out I'll run the engine on the startup cycle 
>> just to be safe, then crank the furnace up so it doesn't restart after I 
>> shut off the engine. I'm not winterizing the engine due to the fact that 
>> it's located in the main cabins and the furnace duct work is doing a really 
>> great job of heating it just by proximity so I can use it when needed.
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On Nov 25, 2017, at 1:32 AM, Jim Watts via CnC-List  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> I'm glad I'm not alone. I took mine apart a couple of years ago and cleaned 
>>> it out. Cleaning the glow plug got me a couple of years of starting from 
>>> battery power alone, but it's back to crawling out to start the motor now. 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Jim Watts
>>> Paradigm Shift
>>> C 35 Mk III
>>> Victoria, BC
>>> 
 On 24 November 2017 at 20:19, William Walker via CnC-List 
  wrote:
 Thanks, that's what I do too.
 Bill
 
 Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
 
 On Friday, November 24, 2017 billbruce--- via CnC-List 
  wrote:
 Mine does the same...it's my practice to start the engine, than the 
 furnace, than shut the engine off after a bit. The Heater draws a lot of 
 power on the start cycle and unless you have a large house bank, it will 
 under power and fail to light off. 
  
 ___
 
 Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and 
 every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
 PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
 
 ___
 
 Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each 
 and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - 
 use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
 
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List asymmetrical furling

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Rod,

Mine extends 3 ft past the headstay. More than that and i would have more than 
3sec penalty, and i can say that it is plenty. If I remember right, maybe it 
was also max length recommended by selden unsupported, from where the bow ring 
bracket could be installed on deck.
I have the selden 87 mm with no bobstay. It is stiff but you can definitely see 
it bend upward with the tension needed so the the furler torque rope works 
properly. I avoid reaching, the asym  I have is not cut for this anyways.

Another drawback of this system is that it requires a special setup to be able 
to ease the tack point. I sometime ease the haylard if the wind is soft and 
that I want to run deeper angles.

Bruno.

Get Outlook for iOS
_
From: Rod Stright >
Sent: samedi, novembre 25, 2017 5:54 AM
Subject: RE: Stus-List asymmetrical furling
To: >


How far does the sprit extend past the headstay?  I have a 4’ section of carbon 
fibre (1.75” OD) I am thinking about fitting I would need something like the 
seldom chocks you have an likely a bobstay.

From: CnC-List [ CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of 
Bruno Lachance via CnC-List
Sent: November-24-17 10:40 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bruno Lachance 
>
Subject: Re: Stus-List asymmetrical furling

Hi Bill,

I am with Mike on this one. I have a 3 ft selden bowsprit on my 33 mkII and a 
Facnor asym furler from 2014 that is used with a 92 square meters running asym. 
We were aware from the beginning this was a compromise, but it allows us to use 
a big asym short handed and I like it!

I have experience the same issues described by Mike. It is easy to use when 
cruising short handed and when you can take the time to have a good even furl 
with no backspin on the torque rope. But for short races, it is slow to furl 
and also easy to make mistakes and then you are in trouble. I would probably 
choose a good sock over a furler if I had to do it again. It is cheaper, faster 
and I don't think that you will have more problems with a sock if handled 
properly.

My rigger says the newer generation of torque rope is better and less prone to 
what I call twist and backspin which leads to what Mike explains with some 
parts of the sail furling and other unfurling... but the torque rope is 
expensive so I have learn to deal with it. We are very careful when fueling, 
especially is the  sail is very loaded.

The sprit is very nice though, 3 sec penalty on my rating.

Maybe the new generation is better. The profurl spinex with the plastic balls 
may be faster. Does anybody has experience with other brands?

Bruno Lachance
Bécassine, 33 mkII
New Richmond, Qc.

Envoyé de mon iPad

Le 24 nov. 2017 à 13:36, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
> a écrit :
Hi Bill

I sailed on a boat with a furling asymmetrical spinnaker.  This system was new 
in 2011.  We had some issues when unfurling.  If it was not furled exactly 
right then somehow one section would be furling while another unfurling.  We 
did sort that out and the next year this was the sail used in cruising class 
Newport to Bermuda.  The kinks were worked out and we had no issues.

One thing with that system is that it took a LONG time to furl in the sail.  
This may make it impractical for races with short legs.

Mike

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of William 
Walker via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, November 24, 2017 12:56 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: wwadjo...@aol.com
Subject: Stus-List asymmetrical furling


I would be interested in hearing others with experience with top down  furlers 
for asym sail.  I frequently race and sail shorthanded and would love to fly my 
asym on occasion.  I have no problem, even single handed when day sailing,  but 
when racing shorthanded transition at a mark rounding between asym and headsail 
is tough.
I am particularly interested in manner of attachment out front of furling genny 
but without addition of sprit and how that may be accomplished.  To have no 
impact on my phrf, tack must attach no more than 12 inches in front of furler.  
The bow casting seems substantial but I am uncertain if drilling through and 
attaching shackle is wise.
Thanks in advance.
Bill Walker
CnC 36
Pentwater Mi
Lake MICHIGAN

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Espar furnace repairs

[John Pennie via CnC-List]

Just know you will need to replace the bower motor after 1000 hrs or on the 
coldest night of the year - whichever comes first :)

John


Sent from my iPad

> On Nov 25, 2017, at 12:40 AM, Daniel Cormier via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I need this thing to last all winter so to avoid the risk of creating 
> problems, if the power goes out I'll run the engine on the startup cycle just 
> to be safe, then crank the furnace up so it doesn't restart after I shut off 
> the engine. I'm not winterizing the engine due to the fact that it's located 
> in the main cabins and the furnace duct work is doing a really great job of 
> heating it just by proximity so I can use it when needed.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Nov 25, 2017, at 1:32 AM, Jim Watts via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> I'm glad I'm not alone. I took mine apart a couple of years ago and cleaned 
>> it out. Cleaning the glow plug got me a couple of years of starting from 
>> battery power alone, but it's back to crawling out to start the motor now. 
>> 
>> 
>> Jim Watts
>> Paradigm Shift
>> C 35 Mk III
>> Victoria, BC
>> 
>>> On 24 November 2017 at 20:19, William Walker via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> Thanks, that's what I do too.
>>> Bill
>>> 
>>> Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
>>> 
>>> On Friday, November 24, 2017 billbruce--- via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> Mine does the same...it's my practice to start the engine, than the 
>>> furnace, than shut the engine off after a bit. The Heater draws a lot of 
>>> power on the start cycle and unless you have a large house bank, it will 
>>> under power and fail to light off. 
>>>  
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and 
>>> every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
>>> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray