Re: Stus-List Drive Handle

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Hello Paul,
Not all engine controls are the same and from your description, it is
difficult to understand which one you have on your boat.  For most engine
controls, C&C used Edson pedestal mounted controls.  You can look on
edsonmarine.com to see if they show the two most common varieties (870 and
816).  If your control sits between the wheel and the pedestal and has 2
extra stainless steel tubes in which the cables run, you may find parts hard
to come by as it was discontinued some years ago.
You mention that your engine is difficult to shift from forward to reverse
which is often a function of the type of gearbox on the boat.  Gasoline
Atomic 4 engines with Paragon transmis Isions were notoriously hard shifting
and had a very long travel engagement lever on the transmission, requiring a
special series of shift cables (Morse/Teleflex series 64).  If this is the
case with your boat, you indeed may need to buy a longer shift handle to
operate your engine controls.
Perhaps if you sent me a photo or made a link to a photo of your engine
control, I can determine what control it is and give you direction on fixing
the lever.  Or you can call Edson and speak to Ken Martin in customer
service and he'll find the right part for you, but will likely be asking the
same questions that I would (type or description of the control, type of
engine and gearbox, last time you changed the control cable, etc.)
Chuck Gilchrest
S/V Half Magic
1983 Landfall 35
Padanaram, MA

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Paul via
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2018 11:05 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: paul.h...@rogers.com
Subject: Stus-List Drive Handle

OK, so a lesson learned.  Don't assume a temporary fix is good forever.  A
few years back when I picked up the boat, the portside lever for the F/R
shifting was missing.  I figured I'd eventually find it in the boat but
never did.  In the meantime, I cut the head off a bolt, slid it in the
shifter and of course needing more leverage slid the manual bilge pump
handle overtop to extend for the needed leverage.  It actually fit well on
all accounts.  This past weekend, coming into the marina with some friends,
I was on deck halfway forward when my friend was helming into the marina and
as he was pulling up to pull out of gear, the darn bolt came out.  I guess
he pulled slightly out while pulling up.  None the less, I told him to put
it back in and sure enough, he pushed it back and slide the bolt into the
bilge pump handle...far enough that it wouldn't work. Being snug, it
wouldn't come back out.  Now in gear, going slightly too fast and running
through the marina, I started running...also thinking I should get that
fixed.  I got it sorted out but figured I better get the proper handle.
Anyone know what it looks like or where I can get one.  The pedestal side of
the assembly has some sort of a spring which appears to pressure the proper
male end fitting once slide in.  It will likely be shorter too than what I'm
using which will mean looking at the gear box as it is very stiff to get
in/out gear (cable runs smooth) but that's another issue altogether.

Paul Hood
1981 C&C34 Georgian Bay


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use
PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List problem Landfall38 autopilot help.

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Fred you are correct.  There are several boats that prohibit the use of a 
dedicated autopilot tiller arm and the 38 Landfall is one of them.As you 
mention, the solution is to direct mount the ram to radial drive wheel with 
sufficient reinforcement at the attachment point.  That mean beefing up the 
radial both above and below the rose joint where the through bolt connects to 
the drive wheel, preferably with some heavy gauge aluminum stock that would fit 
the contours of the casting.  Clamping a stainless plate to the radial wheel 
will be a hotbed for corrosion overtime and will weaken the drive wheel at the 
attachment point.   That’s why it is best to mate aluminum to aluminum.  Try to 
keep the linear drive  level and in-plane with the wheel as possible since 
torsional loads placed on the casting will not hold up under harsh conditions.

And yes, type 2 hydraulic linear drives are far more robust that mechanical 
ones.

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 Landfall 35

Padanaram, MA

 

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Frederick G Street 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2018 7:57 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Frederick G Street 
Subject: Re: Stus-List problem Landfall38 autopilot help.

 

Hi, John — unless your LF38 is significantly different from mine, there is 
absolutely no room to add a proper tiller arm.  You either have to live with an 
undersized wheel pilot (as the Simrad is no longer in production, and the 
Raymarine is right on the edge for our boats’ displacement…); or you have to 
strengthen the radial drive and attach the ram directly to that.  I know, 
Chuck: that’s not recommended by Edson.  But there’s really no other choice; 
and done correctly, it seems to work just fine.  The biggest issue is just 
getting everything properly mounted in that #$%@# excuse for an engine space in 
the LF38.  It takes a bit of cockpit locker space, but it appears to me after 
much thought that a transverse mounting of the ram into the starboard locker 
would be the best in terms of access for both installation and maintenance.

 

I would also suggest that you take a look at the various hydraulic drives out 
there (specifically Octopus and Simrad/Navico), as I believe they’ll last much 
longer than the linear electromechanical drives from Raymarine.

 

And to Allan Hester, who asked about below-deck autopilots in a post last 
weekend, sorry for the delay in replying; I was up trying to get the boat ready 
for its much-delayed launch this coming Saturday.  Ask away, and I’ll try to 
help.

 

— Fred


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(





On May 30, 2018, at 4:17 PM, john wright via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

"Has any CC Landfall 38 owners installed an Edson tiller arm for linear 
autopilot drive application?  We are trying to install a B&G RAM1 Linear drive 
unit and don't have enough exposed rudder shaft to attached an independent 
Edson bronze tiller arm for linear drive connection.  We also interested if 
anyone has used the quadrant to attach the quick release pin.  Its not 
recommended by Edson but figured someone would disregard the warning just to 
have a below deck autopilot"

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Drive Handle

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

FWIW, I replaced the relatively small (and beat up) controls on the Edson 
pedestal on my current boat (1976 42 Custom) with new stainless handles from 
one of those discount marine hardware outlets.  We had to do some adjusting 
to get them to work correctly (they were a little too long based on the 
existing settings and the forward lever would bang into the pedestal guard 
before engaging), but they now look and work great for very little money. 
The Edson pedestal on my current boat is very similar to the pedestal on my 
previous 34 (1978).


-Original Message- 
From: Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List

Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2018 9:25 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Chuck Gilchrest
Subject: Re: Stus-List Drive Handle

Hello Paul,
Not all engine controls are the same and from your description, it is
difficult to understand which one you have on your boat.  For most engine
controls, C&C used Edson pedestal mounted controls.  You can look on
edsonmarine.com to see if they show the two most common varieties (870 and
816).  If your control sits between the wheel and the pedestal and has 2
extra stainless steel tubes in which the cables run, you may find parts hard
to come by as it was discontinued some years ago.
You mention that your engine is difficult to shift from forward to reverse
which is often a function of the type of gearbox on the boat.  Gasoline
Atomic 4 engines with Paragon transmis Isions were notoriously hard shifting
and had a very long travel engagement lever on the transmission, requiring a
special series of shift cables (Morse/Teleflex series 64).  If this is the
case with your boat, you indeed may need to buy a longer shift handle to
operate your engine controls.
Perhaps if you sent me a photo or made a link to a photo of your engine
control, I can determine what control it is and give you direction on fixing
the lever.  Or you can call Edson and speak to Ken Martin in customer
service and he'll find the right part for you, but will likely be asking the
same questions that I would (type or description of the control, type of
engine and gearbox, last time you changed the control cable, etc.)
Chuck Gilchrest
S/V Half Magic
1983 Landfall 35
Padanaram, MA

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Paul via
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2018 11:05 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: paul.h...@rogers.com
Subject: Stus-List Drive Handle

OK, so a lesson learned.  Don't assume a temporary fix is good forever.  A
few years back when I picked up the boat, the portside lever for the F/R
shifting was missing.  I figured I'd eventually find it in the boat but
never did.  In the meantime, I cut the head off a bolt, slid it in the
shifter and of course needing more leverage slid the manual bilge pump
handle overtop to extend for the needed leverage.  It actually fit well on
all accounts.  This past weekend, coming into the marina with some friends,
I was on deck halfway forward when my friend was helming into the marina and
as he was pulling up to pull out of gear, the darn bolt came out.  I guess
he pulled slightly out while pulling up.  None the less, I told him to put
it back in and sure enough, he pushed it back and slide the bolt into the
bilge pump handle...far enough that it wouldn't work. Being snug, it
wouldn't come back out.  Now in gear, going slightly too fast and running
through the marina, I started running...also thinking I should get that
fixed.  I got it sorted out but figured I better get the proper handle.
Anyone know what it looks like or where I can get one.  The pedestal side of
the assembly has some sort of a spring which appears to pressure the proper
male end fitting once slide in.  It will likely be shorter too than what I'm
using which will mean looking at the gear box as it is very stiff to get
in/out gear (cable runs smooth) but that's another issue altogether.

Paul Hood
1981 C&C34 Georgian Bay


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use
PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 



___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List problem Landfall38 autopilot help.

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Chuck — thanks for the elaboration.  BTW, for anyone thinking about going with 
a below-deck autopilot, those who have been on the list for a while know that I 
like the Octopus hydraulic linear drives from Canada.  The biggest downside to 
these is the space you need to leave for the ram rod to protrude behind the 
drive when the ram is fully retracted.

I just came across this hydraulic linear drive today, from a UK supplier:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Combo-Linear-Drive-For-Raymarine-Simrad-Autopilots/231515897070?hash=item35e76c3cee
 


This would be an excellent option to use with a Raymarine (or Simrad, or 
Garmin…) pilot system.  If/when I decide to go ahead on a below-deck pilot on 
my LF38, I’ll definitely consider this drive.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On May 31, 2018, at 8:37 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Fred you are correct.  There are several boats that prohibit the use of a 
> dedicated autopilot tiller arm and the 38 Landfall is one of them.As you 
> mention, the solution is to direct mount the ram to radial drive wheel with 
> sufficient reinforcement at the attachment point.  That mean beefing up the 
> radial both above and below the rose joint where the through bolt connects to 
> the drive wheel, preferably with some heavy gauge aluminum stock that would 
> fit the contours of the casting.  Clamping a stainless plate to the radial 
> wheel will be a hotbed for corrosion overtime and will weaken the drive wheel 
> at the attachment point.   That’s why it is best to mate aluminum to 
> aluminum.  Try to keep the linear drive  level and in-plane with the wheel as 
> possible since torsional loads placed on the casting will not hold up under 
> harsh conditions.
> And yes, type 2 hydraulic linear drives are far more robust that mechanical 
> ones.
> Chuck Gilchrest
> S/V Half Magic
> 1983 Landfall 35
> Padanaram, MA
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List  > On Behalf Of Frederick G Street via 
> CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2018 7:57 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: Frederick G Street mailto:f...@postaudio.net>>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List problem Landfall38 autopilot help.
>  
> Hi, John — unless your LF38 is significantly different from mine, there is 
> absolutely no room to add a proper tiller arm.  You either have to live with 
> an undersized wheel pilot (as the Simrad is no longer in production, and the 
> Raymarine is right on the edge for our boats’ displacement…); or you have to 
> strengthen the radial drive and attach the ram directly to that.  I know, 
> Chuck: that’s not recommended by Edson.  But there’s really no other choice; 
> and done correctly, it seems to work just fine.  The biggest issue is just 
> getting everything properly mounted in that #$%@# excuse for an engine space 
> in the LF38.  It takes a bit of cockpit locker space, but it appears to me 
> after much thought that a transverse mounting of the ram into the starboard 
> locker would be the best in terms of access for both installation and 
> maintenance.
>  
> I would also suggest that you take a look at the various hydraulic drives out 
> there (specifically Octopus and Simrad/Navico), as I believe they’ll last 
> much longer than the linear electromechanical drives from Raymarine.
>  
> And to Allan Hester, who asked about below-deck autopilots in a post last 
> weekend, sorry for the delay in replying; I was up trying to get the boat 
> ready for its much-delayed launch this coming Saturday.  Ask away, and I’ll 
> try to help.
>  
> — Fred
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
> 
> 
>> On May 30, 2018, at 4:17 PM, john wright via CnC-List > > wrote:
>>  
>> "Has any CC Landfall 38 owners installed an Edson tiller arm for linear 
>> autopilot drive application?  We are trying to install a B&G RAM1 Linear 
>> drive unit and don't have enough exposed rudder shaft to attached an 
>> independent Edson bronze tiller arm for linear drive connection.  We also 
>> interested if anyone has used the quadrant to attach the quick release pin.  
>> Its not recommended by Edson but figured someone would disregard the warning 
>> just to have a below deck autopilot"
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to sup

Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: problem Landfall38 autopilot help.

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

When I was a Raytheon dealer we used the Octopus drives on all below decks 
installs from all the various brands.
Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick G 
Street via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2018 10:40 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Frederick G Street
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List problem Landfall38 autopilot help.

Chuck — thanks for the elaboration.  BTW, for anyone thinking about going with 
a below-deck autopilot, those who have been on the list for a while know that I 
like the Octopus hydraulic linear drives from Canada.  The biggest downside to 
these is the space you need to leave for the ram rod to protrude behind the 
drive when the ram is fully retracted.

I just came across this hydraulic linear drive today, from a UK supplier:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Combo-Linear-Drive-For-Raymarine-Simrad-Autopilots/231515897070?hash=item35e76c3cee

This would be an excellent option to use with a Raymarine (or Simrad, or 
Garmin…) pilot system.  If/when I decide to go ahead on a below-deck pilot on 
my LF38, I’ll definitely consider this drive.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(


On May 31, 2018, at 8:37 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Fred you are correct.  There are several boats that prohibit the use of a 
dedicated autopilot tiller arm and the 38 Landfall is one of them.As you 
mention, the solution is to direct mount the ram to radial drive wheel with 
sufficient reinforcement at the attachment point.  That mean beefing up the 
radial both above and below the rose joint where the through bolt connects to 
the drive wheel, preferably with some heavy gauge aluminum stock that would fit 
the contours of the casting.  Clamping a stainless plate to the radial wheel 
will be a hotbed for corrosion overtime and will weaken the drive wheel at the 
attachment point.   That’s why it is best to mate aluminum to aluminum.  Try to 
keep the linear drive  level and in-plane with the wheel as possible since 
torsional loads placed on the casting will not hold up under harsh conditions.
And yes, type 2 hydraulic linear drives are far more robust that mechanical 
ones.
Chuck Gilchrest
S/V Half Magic
1983 Landfall 35
Padanaram, MA


From: CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>> On Behalf 
Of Frederick G Street via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2018 7:57 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Frederick G Street mailto:f...@postaudio.net>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List problem Landfall38 autopilot help.

Hi, John — unless your LF38 is significantly different from mine, there is 
absolutely no room to add a proper tiller arm.  You either have to live with an 
undersized wheel pilot (as the Simrad is no longer in production, and the 
Raymarine is right on the edge for our boats’ displacement…); or you have to 
strengthen the radial drive and attach the ram directly to that.  I know, 
Chuck: that’s not recommended by Edson.  But there’s really no other choice; 
and done correctly, it seems to work just fine.  The biggest issue is just 
getting everything properly mounted in that #$%@# excuse for an engine space in 
the LF38.  It takes a bit of cockpit locker space, but it appears to me after 
much thought that a transverse mounting of the ram into the starboard locker 
would be the best in terms of access for both installation and maintenance.

I would also suggest that you take a look at the various hydraulic drives out 
there (specifically Octopus and Simrad/Navico), as I believe they’ll last much 
longer than the linear electromechanical drives from Raymarine.

And to Allan Hester, who asked about below-deck autopilots in a post last 
weekend, sorry for the delay in replying; I was up trying to get the boat ready 
for its much-delayed launch this coming Saturday.  Ask away, and I’ll try to 
help.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(



On May 30, 2018, at 4:17 PM, john wright via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

"Has any CC Landfall 38 owners installed an Edson tiller arm for linear 
autopilot drive application?  We are trying to install a B&G RAM1 Linear drive 
unit and don't have enough exposed rudder shaft to attached an independent 
Edson bronze tiller arm for linear drive connection.  We also interested if 
anyone has used the quadrant to attach the quick release pin.  Its not 
recommended by Edson but figured someone would disregard the warning just to 
have a below deck autopilot"
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supportin

Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: problem Landfall38 autopilot help.

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Forgot – we did a few direct-to-quadrant hydraulic drive installs. We would get 
a big aluminum plate bolted across the quadrant to spread the load around. Make 
SURE of these things as well:

1.  The hydraulics are not acting as a rudder stop.

2.  The autopilot limits are set to not run against the rudder stops either.
Joe
Coquina
Still rocking the original autopilot from about 1987 or so. Only replaced the 
drive twice and the computer three times ;)

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, 
Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2018 1:33 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Della Barba, Joe
Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: problem Landfall38 autopilot help.

When I was a Raytheon dealer we used the Octopus drives on all below decks 
installs from all the various brands.
Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick G 
Street via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2018 10:40 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Frederick G Street
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List problem Landfall38 autopilot help.

Chuck — thanks for the elaboration.  BTW, for anyone thinking about going with 
a below-deck autopilot, those who have been on the list for a while know that I 
like the Octopus hydraulic linear drives from Canada.  The biggest downside to 
these is the space you need to leave for the ram rod to protrude behind the 
drive when the ram is fully retracted.

I just came across this hydraulic linear drive today, from a UK supplier:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Combo-Linear-Drive-For-Raymarine-Simrad-Autopilots/231515897070?hash=item35e76c3cee

This would be an excellent option to use with a Raymarine (or Simrad, or 
Garmin…) pilot system.  If/when I decide to go ahead on a below-deck pilot on 
my LF38, I’ll definitely consider this drive.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On May 31, 2018, at 8:37 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Fred you are correct.  There are several boats that prohibit the use of a 
dedicated autopilot tiller arm and the 38 Landfall is one of them.As you 
mention, the solution is to direct mount the ram to radial drive wheel with 
sufficient reinforcement at the attachment point.  That mean beefing up the 
radial both above and below the rose joint where the through bolt connects to 
the drive wheel, preferably with some heavy gauge aluminum stock that would fit 
the contours of the casting.  Clamping a stainless plate to the radial wheel 
will be a hotbed for corrosion overtime and will weaken the drive wheel at the 
attachment point.   That’s why it is best to mate aluminum to aluminum.  Try to 
keep the linear drive  level and in-plane with the wheel as possible since 
torsional loads placed on the casting will not hold up under harsh conditions.
And yes, type 2 hydraulic linear drives are far more robust that mechanical 
ones.
Chuck Gilchrest
S/V Half Magic
1983 Landfall 35
Padanaram, MA


From: CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>> On Behalf 
Of Frederick G Street via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2018 7:57 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Frederick G Street mailto:f...@postaudio.net>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List problem Landfall38 autopilot help.

Hi, John — unless your LF38 is significantly different from mine, there is 
absolutely no room to add a proper tiller arm.  You either have to live with an 
undersized wheel pilot (as the Simrad is no longer in production, and the 
Raymarine is right on the edge for our boats’ displacement…); or you have to 
strengthen the radial drive and attach the ram directly to that.  I know, 
Chuck: that’s not recommended by Edson.  But there’s really no other choice; 
and done correctly, it seems to work just fine.  The biggest issue is just 
getting everything properly mounted in that #$%@# excuse for an engine space in 
the LF38.  It takes a bit of cockpit locker space, but it appears to me after 
much thought that a transverse mounting of the ram into the starboard locker 
would be the best in terms of access for both installation and maintenance.

I would also suggest that you take a look at the various hydraulic drives out 
there (specifically Octopus and Simrad/Navico), as I believe they’ll last much 
longer than the linear electromechanical drives from Raymarine.

And to Allan Hester, who asked about below-deck autopilots in a post last 
weekend, sorry for the delay in replying; I was up trying to get the boat ready 
for its much-delayed launch this coming Saturday.  Ask away, and I’ll try to 
help.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(


On May 30, 2018, at 4:17 PM, john wright via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

"Has any CC Landfall 38 owners installed an Edson tiller arm for linear 
autopilot drive application?  We ar

Stus-List v berth sheets and mattress pads

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

 Looking for advice on how to make 'em.
Dan SheerPegathy LF 38Rock Creek off the Patapsco

  
 ___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List v berth sheets and mattress pads

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

I had a custom matters pad (came with my new matress), and found the custom 
sheets didn't work well on my LF38.  I used a king fitted sheet folded and 
tucked under matters, and a queen flat sheet for top tucked under as far as 
possible. Used full size blankets. 



Doug Mountjoy Rebecca Leah LF39 Port Orchard YC, WA.


 Original message From: Daniel Sheer via CnC-List 
 Date: 5/31/18  18:47  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Daniel Sheer  Subject: Stus-List 
v berth sheets and mattress pads 

Looking for advice on how to make 'em.
Dan SheerPegathy LF 38Rock Creek off the Patapsco






___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List v berth sheets and mattress pads

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I had a pillow top pad made for my V-berth by Tufted Topper
www.tuftedtopper.com.  They did a great job.  They also make fitted sheets.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


On Thu, May 31, 2018 at 6:47 PM, Daniel Sheer via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Looking for advice on how to make 'em.
>
> Dan Sheer
> Pegathy LF 38
> Rock Creek off the Patapsco
>
>
>
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