Stus-List Extra storage room..38LF

[detroito91 via CnC-List]

optional on the 38 LF was a cabinet in front of the stove. Does anyone know 
where I can get one or have one they want to get rid ofJim Schwartz SEA YA!38 
LSWashington nc 


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Stus-List C&C 33 Mt 1 holding tank

[Dave. via CnC-List]

Rodney, thanks for the great information. I’ll be going to the boat this 
afternoon and opening up that cabinet to check it out.
Dave. Kaseler
SLY
1975 C&C 33

Sent from my iPad

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Re: Stus-List Deck core repair advice sought

[James Bibb via CnC-List]

Fantastic info!   Thanks.  

Any idea in the dimension for core material for the cored deck portions, 
thickness, and material choices?

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 4, 2018, at 12:34 PM, Francois Rivard via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi James, 
> 
> I would remove some of the deck hardware around the mast and double check.  I 
> don't believe that the coachwork area is cored and where you see the issues 
> it's than likely just compression damage on the Coromat.  I.E I'm fairly 
> confident that there's no rot and you could more than likely easily fix using 
> penetrating epoxy. 
> 
> I have a 34+ (Same boat) and some of the dodger fasteners were failing in 
> that same area near the head and across the other side.  I removed them and 
> checked the holes (Through holes all the way)  As far as I could tell there 
> was NO coring whatsoever.  If there was Coromat, it's pretty thin.  See here 
> for more details:  http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/reviews/review34-36.htm
> More interesting stuff here: 
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/reviews/perry/c&c34.htm
> 
> The side decks and the foredeck (Where you walk) are cored. 
> 
> Bottom line: remove some of the blocks on the foot of the mast to check the 
> holes / see the layup, I'd surprised if you actually see coring around that 
> area.   
> 
> As for the Boot, I got one from Holland Marine a few years back.  it fits 
> about as  perfectly as but it's pretty hard to make it completely leak proof. 
>  
> 
> Good luck with it. 
> 
> -Francois Rivard
> 1990 34+ "Take Five" 
> Lake Lanier, GA
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List C&C 30' mk1 replacement fuel tank

[Aaron Rouhi via CnC-List]

Years back, I replaced the aluminum tank on my 30-1 with this one from Moeller 
Marine. It was a perfect fit:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000MT95C8/ref=pe_175190_21431760_M2T1_SC_dp_1

Cheers,
Aaron
Admiral Maggie
79' 30-1
Annapolis, MD



From: CnC-List  on behalf of Steve Guiney via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, September 4, 2018 8:44 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Steve Guiney
Subject: Stus-List C&C 30' mk1 replacement fuel tank

Hello I'm wondering if anyone replaced their original fuel tank and know the 
dimensions of have a Moeller part number?
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Stus-List Deck core repair advice sought

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

Hi James,

I would remove some of the deck hardware around the mast and double check.
I don't believe that the coachwork area is cored and where you see the
issues it's than likely just compression damage on the Coromat.  I.E I'm
fairly confident that there's no rot and you could more than likely easily
fix using penetrating epoxy.

I have a 34+ (Same boat) and some of the dodger fasteners were failing in
that same area near the head and across the other side.  I removed them and
checked the holes (Through holes all the way)  As far as I could tell there
was NO coring whatsoever.  If there was Coromat, it's pretty thin.  See
here for more details:  http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/reviews/review34-36.htm
More interesting stuff here:
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/reviews/perry/c&c34.htm

The side decks and the foredeck (Where you walk) are cored.

Bottom line: remove some of the blocks on the foot of the mast to check the
holes / see the layup, I'd surprised if you actually see coring around that
area.

As for the Boot, I got one from Holland Marine a few years back.  it fits
about as  perfectly as but it's pretty hard to make it completely leak
proof.

Good luck with it.

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA
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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: C&C 30' mk1 replacement fuel tank

[Sylvain Laplante via CnC-List]

OOps, I think I had the holding tank post in mind!  My fuel tank is made of 
Monel and still perfect after all those years ( 1975 ). Epoxy-plywood tanks are 
only for water and holding tanks, of course..

Sylvain
C&C27 MkIII


   On Tuesday, September 4, 2018, 1:07:04 PM EDT, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
 wrote:  
 
 
I would not suggest a wooden fuel tank and I suspect the insurance company 
would not either!
 
  
 
Joe
 
  
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Sylvain 
Laplante via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2018 12:44 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Sylvain Laplante 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List C&C 30' mk1 replacement fuel tank
 
  
 
I don't know if the 30 is like the 27, but when the thanks was leaking I made 
one of Plywood-epoxy and used all the fittings from the previous tank ( Proto 
Tank ), The tough part is to make it fit the unequal sides, I made a model from 
cardboard first.
 
That was in 1998 and it is still ok.
 
  
 
Sylvain
 
C&C27 MkIII
 
On Tuesday, September 4, 2018, 9:13:37 AM EDT, Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 
  
 
  
 
I have replaced my tank. A problem in the original one, being made of aluminum 
and sitting on a piece of plywood, is that it (over 36 years) will develop pin 
holes and leak. Then you get to pump diesel out of your bilge.
 
A second problem is the original has a elbow welded in the top which allows the 
input hose to exit sideways on the starboard side. I could not find a tank 
which would fit on the shelf which did not have a vertical input – and thus not 
allow the (very not flexible) input hose to turn down in time. I went to a 
smaller Moeller tank (11 gallons) instead of the original 19. Others have 
drilled a fill hole in the cockpit floor and put the filler in straight.
 
 
 
The Moeller tank I have was about $175 or so as opposed to some others which 
didn’t appear to fit any better for $400 or more. You can get a bunch of other 
tanks by Googling Moeller and/or chasing down some other manufacturers.
 
 
 
Or…. Take your tank out and find an aluminum welder and have a new bottom 
welded on (may be the best overall solution). The rest of the tank was fine, 
just the bottom was perforated.
 
 
 
Gary Nylander
 
30-1 #593
 
 
 
From: CnC-List On Behalf Of Steve Guiney via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, September 4, 2018 8:44 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Steve Guiney 
Subject: Stus-List C&C 30' mk1 replacement fuel tank
 
 
 
Hello I'm wondering if anyone replaced their original fuel tank and know the 
dimensions of have a Moeller part number?
 
___

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 ___

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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: C&C 30' mk1 replacement fuel tank

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

I would not suggest a wooden fuel tank and I suspect the insurance company 
would not either!

Joe

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Sylvain 
Laplante via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2018 12:44 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Sylvain Laplante 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List C&C 30' mk1 replacement fuel tank

I don't know if the 30 is like the 27, but when the thanks was leaking I made 
one of Plywood-epoxy and used all the fittings from the previous tank ( Proto 
Tank ), The tough part is to make it fit the unequal sides, I made a model from 
cardboard first.
That was in 1998 and it is still ok.

Sylvain
C&C27 MkIII
On Tuesday, September 4, 2018, 9:13:37 AM EDT, Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:



I have replaced my tank. A problem in the original one, being made of aluminum 
and sitting on a piece of plywood, is that it (over 36 years) will develop pin 
holes and leak. Then you get to pump diesel out of your bilge.

A second problem is the original has a elbow welded in the top which allows the 
input hose to exit sideways on the starboard side. I could not find a tank 
which would fit on the shelf which did not have a vertical input – and thus not 
allow the (very not flexible) input hose to turn down in time. I went to a 
smaller Moeller tank (11 gallons) instead of the original 19. Others have 
drilled a fill hole in the cockpit floor and put the filler in straight.



The Moeller tank I have was about $175 or so as opposed to some others which 
didn’t appear to fit any better for $400 or more. You can get a bunch of other 
tanks by Googling Moeller and/or chasing down some other manufacturers.



Or…. Take your tank out and find an aluminum welder and have a new bottom 
welded on (may be the best overall solution). The rest of the tank was fine, 
just the bottom was perforated.



Gary Nylander

30-1 #593



From: CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>> On Behalf 
Of Steve Guiney via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, September 4, 2018 8:44 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Steve Guiney mailto:stevengui...@gmail.com>>
Subject: Stus-List C&C 30' mk1 replacement fuel tank



Hello I'm wondering if anyone replaced their original fuel tank and know the 
dimensions of have a Moeller part number?
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List C&C 30' mk1 replacement fuel tank

[Sylvain Laplante via CnC-List]

I don't know if the 30 is like the 27, but when the thanks was leaking I made 
one of Plywood-epoxy and used all the fittings from the previous tank ( Proto 
Tank ), The tough part is to make it fit the unequal sides, I made a model from 
cardboard first.
That was in 1998 and it is still ok.

Sylvain
C&C27 MkIII

   On Tuesday, September 4, 2018, 9:13:37 AM EDT, Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
 wrote:  
 
 
I have replaced my tank. A problem in the original one, being made of aluminum 
and sitting on a piece of plywood, is that it (over 36 years) will develop pin 
holes and leak. Then you get to pump diesel out of your bilge.

A second problem is the original has a elbow welded in the top which allows the 
input hose to exit sideways on the starboard side. I could not find a tank 
which would fit on the shelf which did not have a vertical input – and thus not 
allow the (very not flexible) input hose to turn down in time. I went to a 
smaller Moeller tank (11 gallons) instead of the original 19. Others have 
drilled a fill hole in the cockpit floor and put the filler in straight.

  

The Moeller tank I have was about $175 or so as opposed to some others which 
didn’t appear to fit any better for $400 or more. You can get a bunch of other 
tanks by Googling Moeller and/or chasing down some other manufacturers.

  

Or…. Take your tank out and find an aluminum welder and have a new bottom 
welded on (may be the best overall solution). The rest of the tank was fine, 
just the bottom was perforated.

  

Gary Nylander

30-1 #593

  

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Steve Guiney via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, September 4, 2018 8:44 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Steve Guiney 
Subject: Stus-List C&C 30' mk1 replacement fuel tank

  

Hello I'm wondering if anyone replaced their original fuel tank and know the 
dimensions of have a Moeller part number?
___

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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: C&C 30' mk1 replacement fuel tank

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

My aluminum tank sits on dri-deck (https://www.dri-dek.com/) which sits on 
star-board. Nothing that holds water is touching the aluminum.
The 35 tank exits from the top, but there is hardly any clearance. I got an 
aluminum 90 degree fitting made for me and someone on the list found 90 degree 
rubber fittings for much less than I spent.
Also note with a new tank, you could get a welder to just seal the top and weld 
the fill on the side before you put it in the boat.

Joe
Coquina
35 MK I

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary 
Nylander via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2018 9:13 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Gary Nylander 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List C&C 30' mk1 replacement fuel tank

I have replaced my tank. A problem in the original one, being made of aluminum 
and sitting on a piece of plywood, is that it (over 36 years) will develop pin 
holes and leak. Then you get to pump diesel out of your bilge.
A second problem is the original has a elbow welded in the top which allows the 
input hose to exit sideways on the starboard side. I could not find a tank 
which would fit on the shelf which did not have a vertical input – and thus not 
allow the (very not flexible) input hose to turn down in time. I went to a 
smaller Moeller tank (11 gallons) instead of the original 19. Others have 
drilled a fill hole in the cockpit floor and put the filler in straight.

The Moeller tank I have was about $175 or so as opposed to some others which 
didn’t appear to fit any better for $400 or more. You can get a bunch of other 
tanks by Googling Moeller and/or chasing down some other manufacturers.

Or…. Take your tank out and find an aluminum welder and have a new bottom 
welded on (may be the best overall solution). The rest of the tank was fine, 
just the bottom was perforated.

Gary Nylander
30-1 #593

From: CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>> On Behalf 
Of Steve Guiney via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, September 4, 2018 8:44 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Steve Guiney mailto:stevengui...@gmail.com>>
Subject: Stus-List C&C 30' mk1 replacement fuel tank

Hello I'm wondering if anyone replaced their original fuel tank and know the 
dimensions of have a Moeller part number?
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C&C 30' mk1 replacement fuel tank

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I have replaced my tank. A problem in the original one, being made of aluminum 
and sitting on a piece of plywood, is that it (over 36 years) will develop pin 
holes and leak. Then you get to pump diesel out of your bilge.

A second problem is the original has a elbow welded in the top which allows the 
input hose to exit sideways on the starboard side. I could not find a tank 
which would fit on the shelf which did not have a vertical input – and thus not 
allow the (very not flexible) input hose to turn down in time. I went to a 
smaller Moeller tank (11 gallons) instead of the original 19. Others have 
drilled a fill hole in the cockpit floor and put the filler in straight.

 

The Moeller tank I have was about $175 or so as opposed to some others which 
didn’t appear to fit any better for $400 or more. You can get a bunch of other 
tanks by Googling Moeller and/or chasing down some other manufacturers.

 

Or…. Take your tank out and find an aluminum welder and have a new bottom 
welded on (may be the best overall solution). The rest of the tank was fine, 
just the bottom was perforated.

 

Gary Nylander

30-1 #593

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Steve Guiney via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, September 4, 2018 8:44 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Steve Guiney 
Subject: Stus-List C&C 30' mk1 replacement fuel tank

 

Hello I'm wondering if anyone replaced their original fuel tank and know the 
dimensions of have a Moeller part number?

___

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Re: Stus-List Holding tank

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

Fittings are spun on the tank using a high-powered router.  The tank 
manufacturer can easily add an additional fitting on a new tank.

Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Presently in Baltimore for the summer)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Sep 4, 2018, at 12:06 AM, Wade Glew via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> is it correct to assume that the original fittings on my Kracor holding tank 
> will determine the size of vent hose I can use, or can I retrofit larger 
> hoses?
> Would a second vent require a pro to create a fitting on my existing tank?
> 
> Wade
> Oh Boy 33-2
> 
> 
> 
>> On Sat, Sep 1, 2018 at 10:41 AM Howard and Skippy via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Dave. Kaseler
>> SLY
>> 1975 C&C 33
>> Dave,
>> One of the most important things you can do with this install is insure 
>> proper hose diameter for ventilation. Most head odor problems can be traced 
>> to vent hoses that are too small.  If you find or have a tank made, put in 
>> the largest vent hose size you can fit.
>> Howard Paul, Skipper of Knot Again, 35-3
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List Deck core repair advice sought

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Sorry.  In description it should have read layers of cloth, core material, more 
layers of cloth and then thickened epoxy



Mike



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt, Mike 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2018 9:48 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Hoyt, Mike
Subject: Re: Stus-List Deck core repair advice sought



Hi James



We used to own a J Boat (J/27) and it was very routine to replace deck core.  
We previously had a Hinterhoeller built and designed Niagara 26 where we had to 
recore large areas around both chainplates and most of the cockpit floor.  The 
J27 also had no headliner which did indeed make work easier.



We did all of the work from above.  If doing from below you would likely wish 
to use a vacuum bagging system and need a lot of supports to hold everything in 
place.  From above gravity is your friend.   The Niagara had a painted deck 
which we had repainted with Interlux Interthane Plus (possibly now Perfection) 
which is a 2 part paint similar to Awlgrip.  Amy rep[airs we could use Interlux 
Brightside which had a perfect color match and was easy to apply and blended in 
perfectly.  The J-Boat had a gray non-skid on white deck in sections so was 
very easy to color match as I simply painted the entire deck with Interdeck 
grey.



Since the decks were either to be painted or already painted U cut out topskin 
and chiseled out the core.  Make sure you get out all the wet core.  Then 
layers of cloth using Epoxy or polyester (your choice), core material and then 
thickened polyester or epoxy (usually epoxy by this point) with West 407 
sandable filler or similar.  Lots of sanding and checking to ensure deck was 
level and had no low or high spots and then prime and paint using Interdeck (or 
you could use Kiwi-grip).



A friend also with a J/27 popped off a section of the topskin to top the job 
from above and then reused that section afterward.  The upside of this method 
is matching nonskid while the downside is possibility of trapped air bubbles.



Replacing deck core is actually a fairly simple process and the end result can 
be quite satisfying.  On the J-boat we had to do this in 14 sections where the 
deck had been wet or even rotted (around 4 stanchion bases, 2 chainplates, bow 
pulpit feet, dorade on bow, cockpit seats in 4 areas, under primary winch on 
stbd and under genoa track on stbd).  I phot-documented the process but our web 
site has been down since we switched internet providers over the winter.  I 
could send photos off line if you are interested.



Note that for a Kevlar construction you should research what to use for this 
repair.  I suspect epoxy may bond but doubt polyester would.  You may also find 
other alternatives.



Mike

Persistence

1987 Frers 33 #16

Halifax, NS



-Original Message-

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of James Bibb 
via CnC-List

Sent: Friday, August 31, 2018 9:26 PM

To: Chuck S via CnC-List

Cc: James Bibb

Subject: Stus-List Deck core repair advice sought



I have some soft deck repair anticipated around my mast opening…above head on 
port cabin leading edge where folks jump the halyards and foredeck area where 
the bowman has been working since 1991.



1991 C&C 34-36R so the deck is composite. I assume also of the most part 
however the brief design notes mention a mixture of kevlar and balsa.  Does 
anybody know where the distinction is around the boat?



I’ll be removing the mast for this work.



Also…from below or above?  I really want to leave the gelcoat intake and if I 
can work on the boat over the next few months…have the heated cabin environment 
to help curing.



Anybody been down this road?



Also….need to find a replacement mast boot.  The current one is worn and needs 
replacing.





Thanks!



James Bibb



SV Darwins Folly

1991 C&C 34-36R

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Re: Stus-List Deck core repair advice sought

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Hi James

We used to own a J Boat (J/27) and it was very routine to replace deck core.  
We previously had a Hinterhoeller built and designed Niagara 26 where we had to 
recore large areas around both chainplates and most of the cockpit floor.  The 
J27 also had no headliner which did indeed make work easier.

We did all of the work from above.  If doing from below you would likely wish 
to use a vacuum bagging system and need a lot of supports to hold everything in 
place.  From above gravity is your friend.   The Niagara had a painted deck 
which we had repainted with Interlux Interthane Plus (possibly now Perfection) 
which is a 2 part paint similar to Awlgrip.  Amy rep[airs we could use Interlux 
Brightside which had a perfect color match and was easy to apply and blended in 
perfectly.  The J-Boat had a gray non-skid on white deck in sections so was 
very easy to color match as I simply painted the entire deck with Interdeck 
grey.

Since the decks were either to be painted or already painted U cut out topskin 
and chiseled out the core.  Make sure you get out all the wet core.  Then 
layers of cloth using Epoxy or polyester (your choice), core material and then 
thickened polyester or epoxy (usually epoxy by this point) with West 407 
sandable filler or similar.  Lots of sanding and checking to ensure deck was 
level and had no low or high spots and then prime and paint using Interdeck (or 
you could use Kiwi-grip).

A friend also with a J/27 popped off a section of the topskin to top the job 
from above and then reused that section afterward.  The upside of this method 
is matching nonskid while the downside is possibility of trapped air bubbles.  

Replacing deck core is actually a fairly simple process and the end result can 
be quite satisfying.  On the J-boat we had to do this in 14 sections where the 
deck had been wet or even rotted (around 4 stanchion bases, 2 chainplates, bow 
pulpit feet, dorade on bow, cockpit seats in 4 areas, under primary winch on 
stbd and under genoa track on stbd).  I phot-documented the process but our web 
site has been down since we switched internet providers over the winter.  I 
could send photos off line if you are interested.

Note that for a Kevlar construction you should research what to use for this 
repair.  I suspect epoxy may bond but doubt polyester would.  You may also find 
other alternatives.

Mike
Persistence
1987 Frers 33 #16
Halifax, NS

 
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of James Bibb 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, August 31, 2018 9:26 PM
To: Chuck S via CnC-List
Cc: James Bibb
Subject: Stus-List Deck core repair advice sought

I have some soft deck repair anticipated around my mast opening…above head on 
port cabin leading edge where folks jump the halyards and foredeck area where 
the bowman has been working since 1991. 

1991 C&C 34-36R so the deck is composite. I assume also of the most part 
however the brief design notes mention a mixture of kevlar and balsa.  Does 
anybody know where the distinction is around the boat?  

I’ll be removing the mast for this work.  

Also…from below or above?  I really want to leave the gelcoat intake and if I 
can work on the boat over the next few months…have the heated cabin environment 
to help curing. 

Anybody been down this road?

Also….need to find a replacement mast boot.  The current one is worn and needs 
replacing. 


Thanks!

James Bibb

SV Darwins Folly 
1991 C&C 34-36R
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Stus-List C&C 30' mk1 replacement fuel tank

[Steve Guiney via CnC-List]

Hello I'm wondering if anyone replaced their original fuel tank and know
the dimensions of have a Moeller part number?
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Stus-List 30' mk1 cradle dimensions

[Steve Guiney via CnC-List]

Any dimensions would be appreciated. Length and width of cradle. Distance
between posts..anything will be helpful...thanks!
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