Re: Stus-List Prop Shaft Strut - Removal, Alignment, and Re-bedding - C 36-1 KCB

[Tim Rutherford via CnC-List]

Looking for a lead on a replacement prop shaft strut for this boat. I think
the strut spec numbers I'm looking for are shaft angle, aft drop, and
offset and of course, a vendor lead would help too.

It appears that the original strut has been replaced with one that is too
long, among other things.

The strut bed was ground down to 1/4" at the thinnest part aft, and the
angle seems wrong because the bed is deeper aft than forward by more than
an eighth of an inch. Also the base of the strut had been planed at an
angle, thinner forward. And it still didn't fit!  The center-line of the
strut bearing is still about 3/8" lower than the center-line of the log.
When I bolt it all up the packless seal isn't centered on the shaft. I'm
thinking it's time to start with a spec strut, or something close, and
build the bed to fit. Or just run it; I'm not sure.

Tim Rutherford

C 36-1 KCB #244 - Chamamé
Tampa, FL
tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com


On Sat, Dec 8, 2018 at 9:40 AM Stephen Thorne 
wrote:

> I suggest wax paper vs cellophane
>
> On Sat, Dec 8, 2018 at 8:07 AM Tim Rutherford via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Update.
>>
>> Shaft was riding hard against the the inside of the packless seal's
>> carbon stator and hard against the  forward end of the cutless bearing.This
>> all makes sense, since the shaft has always been hard to turn by hand and
>> is reflected in the shaft wear patterns.
>>
>> Local prop shop condemned the propeller shaft and coupling, supplied new
>> replacements, and installed a new cutless bearing in the strut.
>>
>> Martec two-blade folding prop is completely serviced and is on it's way
>> back.
>>
>> Reassembly: When I test fitted the strut and shaft, the shaft exits the
>> log too high and to starboard proving the misalignment. Further examination
>> of the packless seal stator confirms that the shaft was riding in that
>> area. I ordered a new one (whole packless seal, not just a kit)  too. The
>> face was also scored and it was worn off-center.
>>
>> Looks like I'll be re-bedding the strut with better alignment. The plan
>> is to assemble the shaft and the strut and raise it into position, then
>> shim the shaft temporarily into the center of the log, to offset the shaft
>> weight. Then raise the strut to it's existing bed to see which corner makes
>> contact first and use that one (1) screw for general location for the next
>> step. Then Ill prepare the bed with thickened epoxy and prepare the strut
>> with a release agent (or cellophane?). I'll raise the strut until the base
>> makes contact in the area where that one (1) screw is located and support
>> it there with only slightly more pressure than it's own weight. I'll fill
>> the three (3) remaining screw holes with epoxy and let it all set up.
>> After the epoxy has cured, I'll re-drill the remaining screw holes then
>> re-bed the whole shebang with sealant.
>>
>> Concurrently the rudder is almost out to refurbish bearings. Mine has the
>> bronze thrust plate just under the helmsman's seat in the cockpit but
>> that's a different thread!
>>
>> Any shared experience is always welcomed!
>>
>> --
>> Tim Rutherford
>> 
>> C 36-1 KCB #244 - Chamamé
>> Tampa, FL
>> tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
>>
>>
>> On Thu, Nov 29, 2018 at 6:13 PM Tim Rutherford <
>> tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Neil, Matt, Dennis, and Len - thanks for your comments. Really
>>> appreciated!
>>>
>>> --
>>> Tim Rutherford
>>> 
>>> C 36-1 KCB #244 - Chamamé
>>> Tampa, FL
>>> tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Wed, Nov 28, 2018 at 7:53 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
 Couple years ago, I removed Touche's strut to straighten it.  It was a
 straightforward job.  I did have to remove the fuel tank for access to the
 nuts.

 Upon re-install, I used a cone shaped grinding stone to chamfer the 4
 fastener holes on the underside.  This lets the sealant form an o-ring
 around the fastener.  I think I used 3M 4200 as the sealant.  I recall I
 used new fasteners with fender washer, washer and nylon lock nuts.

 The joint around the perimeter of the strut base was faired with
 AwlFair, sanded and painted.

 The alignment was pretty true before removal so I just re-installed
 without any further ado.  The lack of vibration after completion indicates
 that the job was successful.  If there had been any vibration, I would have
 done an alignment.

 Dennis C.
 Touche' 35-1#83
 Mandevile, LA

 On Nov 28, 2018 9:16 AM, "Tim Rutherford via CnC-List" <
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

 Prop shaft strut is weeping around the nuts inside the hull and
 externally the fairing shows cracks around the perimeter of the strut base
 although it doesn't feel loose. No slop in the Cutlass bearing. She's on
 the hard for bottom job and driveline maintenance. I'm interested in your
 thoughts on how best to 

Re: Stus-List Bilge pump

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I have the same setup as Josh and also have a check valve.  The reason I added 
the check valve is that I have twice had water being driven into the boat 
through the bilge pump outlet and through the bilge pump into the bilge on the 
first motor down the river in the spring after launch.  I don’t understand the 
phenomenon as it only ever happened on that first motor trip after launch and 
not every time.  The bilge pump exits on the underside of the transom so is 
underwater when motoring fast (in fresh water as well).  The pressure seemed to 
drive water through the pump into the bilge and would stop when we slowed down. 
 It would eventually stop coming in altogether, but I never figured out why.  
There is a loop to break siphon, but that would not help if the water pressure 
from motion drives water up through the loop.  So unless I figure this out, I 
will stick with the check valve.  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



> On Jan 15, 2019, at 3:23 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I've have surprisingly good results using Atwood pumps.  They advertise as 
> being Johnson replaceable and have a 3 year warranty.  I don't know about 
> being a better foot print, higher capacity, better built, or more reliable.  
> My most recent one lasted about 3 years which matched the age of the more 
> expensive Rule which it replaced.
> 
> I installed a rule automatic pump shortly after buying the boat.  When in 
> auto it would start every 2.5 minutes and "test" for water.  Unfortunately 
> with even a small amount of backflow this could cause it to cycle excessively 
> by getting false positives when it "tested" for water.  This was annoying in 
> the least, particularly when trying to sleep.
> 
> I'm preferential to a float type auto switch wired in parallel with the 
> manual switch.  My auto float switch is mounted above the pump and only turns 
> on when a considerable amount of water accumulates.  Under normal conditions 
> I manually pump the bilge down and the float just catches it when I've 
> abandoned the boat for weeks on end.
> 
> I have a check valve.  There I said it.  In a perfect I world have a very 
> high capacity "emergency" pump and associated auto float mounted just above 
> the float for the lower "normal" pump.  The emergency pump would not have a 
> check valve.  It would have a high loop to avoid a siphon but nothing to 
> prevent backflow.  It would also be as short and straight of a run as 
> possible to the discharge.  In this way I could ensure the emergency 
> reliability and capacity of an emergency bilge pump by keeping it dry and 
> rarely using it.  I would retain the normal bilge pump's ability to pump the 
> bilge to its lowest reasonable level.  Both would work automatically and 
> manually.
> 
> The pump I have is 1200 gph (20 gpm) or 4 x 5 gallon buckets per minute - 
> more flow than I can move manually but not much.  Once, I accidentally left 
> the transducer plugs out when launching the boat.  We discovered the 
> situation before water got to the floor boards but not before a considerable 
> amount of water had made it in.  Once the situation was corrected the bilge 
> pump continued to run for what seemed like the better part of 5 minutes.  The 
> point being, 1200gph sounds big... It isn't.  If I had a shaft seal that 
> failed, the pump almost certainly would not have kept up and that is the 
> least catastrophic emergency I can think of.
> 
> Josh Muckley 
> S/V Sea Hawk 
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD 
> 
> 
> 
> On Jan 15, 2019 12:16 PM, "Bruno Lachance via CnC-List" 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Hi,
> 
> My Rule 1500 is broken and i'm looking for a replacement. I know some people 
> here have a system including the mandatory manual pump, the "main", often 
> turbine type  electric pump and a low GPH suction pump to empty the bilge.
> 
> I'm not quite there yet, and would just like to get the best "main" electric 
> pump that could fit. Is there a better option than the Rule 1500 out there 
> that would have about the same footprint ? Whale has a new line but the pump 
> is a bit bigger. Could a equivalent capacity diaphragm pump be a choice ? 
> What about auto pump with integrated switch, are they reliable ?
> 
> My setup includes a Rule float swith that will be replaced with a "water 
> witch" switch once broken and i use a check valve. (i know some are against 
> this, aka Rule themself).
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> 
> Bruno Lachance
> Bécassine, 33 mkII
> new-Richmond, Qc
> Canada
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> 
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump...now outlet location

[David via CnC-List]

So it dawned on me one day...my primary pump exited midships on the starboard 
side under the gunwale.  Right where the launch lands.  Potentially giving one 
of my club-mates a snoot-full of bilge water.  Not good.

So moved primary to port side and routed the high water emergency pump outlet 
to starboard side.  Much better.

Just a  thought.




David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650



___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray