Stus-List Not shifting fwd to reverse
My C same deal this spring with the A4. Marginal Fwd and marignal REV. Any source for parts (new cable) recommended Yankee or Canuck? TY. ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Not shifting fwd to reverse
Thanks chuck..I'll check it out when I go backJimSent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone Original message From: Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List Date: 5/20/19 8:19 PM (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Chuck Gilchrest Subject: Re: Stus-List Not shifting fwd to reverse Have you tried disconnecting the cable at the gearbox and shifting into gear using only your hands? Generally gearboxes (other than mechanical boxes on A4s or Paragon boxes) will snick in and out of gear with very little effort. If the cable is antique(as in the original cable for the boat) go ahead and buy a new one, same length as the old one before it breaks or the gear shift on the pedestal breaks. Since the cables use a solid rod inside the cable housing, wear will occur wherever the cable makes a bend. It is undetectable to the eye and it will make the gearbox increasingly harder to put in gear. If the boat won’t engage in either forward or reverse, I’ll put my money on the cable or the cable holder inside the pedestal shifter as the offending part.My Landfall 35 has a shift mechanism at the pedestal that Edson stopped making in the 80’s with no replacement parts. Same Hurth V drive on the 3HM Yanmar. Keeping the gear shifter functional saves me from a huge pedestal refit job.Chuck Gilchrest S/V Half Magic1983 35 Landfall Padanaram, MASent from my iPhoneOn May 20, 2019, at 7:40 PM, detroito91 via CnC-List wrote:It's been one year since the last problem...coupling bolts shearing off. Wrong grade bolts. Couldn't race in the regatta. New year..same regatta. We won the regatta but couldn't sail home. Wouldn't shift into gear to leave docks. Shift cables are moving, v-drive is filled with oil. What do I check next? Has been slow to shift into gear lately. Will take all suggestions. 81 38 landfall with v-drive transmission. Jim Schwartz SEA YA!38 landfall Washington ncSent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone___Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Not shifting fwd to reverse
Have you tried disconnecting the cable at the gearbox and shifting into gear using only your hands? Generally gearboxes (other than mechanical boxes on A4s or Paragon boxes) will snick in and out of gear with very little effort. If the cable is antique(as in the original cable for the boat) go ahead and buy a new one, same length as the old one before it breaks or the gear shift on the pedestal breaks. Since the cables use a solid rod inside the cable housing, wear will occur wherever the cable makes a bend. It is undetectable to the eye and it will make the gearbox increasingly harder to put in gear. If the boat won’t engage in either forward or reverse, I’ll put my money on the cable or the cable holder inside the pedestal shifter as the offending part. My Landfall 35 has a shift mechanism at the pedestal that Edson stopped making in the 80’s with no replacement parts. Same Hurth V drive on the 3HM Yanmar. Keeping the gear shifter functional saves me from a huge pedestal refit job. Chuck Gilchrest S/V Half Magic 1983 35 Landfall Padanaram, MA Sent from my iPhone > On May 20, 2019, at 7:40 PM, detroito91 via CnC-List > wrote: > > > It's been one year since the last problem...coupling bolts shearing off. > Wrong grade bolts. Couldn't race in the regatta. > New year..same regatta. We won the regatta but couldn't sail home. Wouldn't > shift into gear to leave docks. Shift cables are moving, v-drive is filled > with oil. What do I check next? Has been slow to shift into gear lately. Will > take all suggestions. > 81 38 landfall with v-drive transmission. > Jim Schwartz > SEA YA! > 38 landfall > Washington nc > > > Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and > every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List dropping 29-2 rudder
Should be the same for most C's I just replaced my rudder after work last week. Takes about an hour if everything is free. Here's the steps: - remove steering cables from quadrant - remove quadrant 4 bolts on either side of the shaft and 2 little bolts holding the thing together - remember to catch the key from the shaft when you take the quadrant off. - Have someone hold onto the rudder - Remove donut at top of rudder post. Should be 2 set screws or a bolt that goes straight through - Rudder drops out. If things are not free...ie the stainless steel bolts have welded themselves to the quadrant...then the only option is to grind the thing off. Not much fun. I had to do that to my quadrant and donut the 1st time I removed my rudder. Took better part of a day to get through the quadrant and an hour or so to get through the donut (amaizing how much have a bit of space makes life easier. Replacement parts are available at Edson and https://southshoreyachts.com/ Albeit shouldn't be too hard to re-manufacture a stainless steel donut. My C 30 I can do this with the boat on the cradle as there is enough room to get it out completely. My cradle is on 6X6 skids...but it shouldn't matter. Cheers, Jeff Nelson Muir Caileag C 30 Armdale Y.C. On 5/20/2019 5:11 PM, Bev Parslow via CnC-List wrote: What is the process for dropping the rudder on a 29-2? ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Not shifting fwd to reverse
It's been one year since the last problem...coupling bolts shearing off. Wrong grade bolts. Couldn't race in the regatta. New year..same regatta. We won the regatta but couldn't sail home. Wouldn't shift into gear to leave docks. Shift cables are moving, v-drive is filled with oil. What do I check next? Has been slow to shift into gear lately. Will take all suggestions. 81 38 landfall with v-drive transmission. Jim Schwartz SEA YA!38 landfall Washington ncSent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List dropping 29-2 rudder
What is the process for dropping the rudder on a 29-2?___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Window/Hatch/Blinds Upgrades
Brian: I replaced the lens on my front hatch and my windows on a 1978 34. The hatch was Atkins and Hoyle. The parts are really expensive so do what you can to use the existing hatch frame and its parts. For this job, I ordered a piece of plexi of the same thickness, had it cut to size, then took it to a local shop that replaces auto windows. I told them to use the same sealant they use for cars. They did a fine job -- no leaks. I also replaced the gasket material, which you should be able to find on-line. My windows were the old style C oval windows, which I replaced with Lewmar opening ports. Great upgrade. I think 1979 was the year C started using "go fast" windows, so you'll want to use the procedure described numerous times on this list. I used this procedure last year on my 42, and the windows look brand new with no leaks. Matt -Original Message- From: Brian Morrison via CnC-List Sent: Sunday, May 19, 2019 12:40 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Brian Morrison Subject: Stus-List Window/Hatch/Blinds Upgrades Hello, I have a 1979 C 34. It’s time to upgrade my windows, forward hatch, companionway hatch and blinds. The windows and hatches are leaking and have crazing. The blinds are worn and outdated. Any leads/advice is much appreciated. Thanks Brian S/V Rekofa 1979 C ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Cored hull and transducer, 1994 C/40+
Bruce — if you’re going to have two depth transducers running at the same time, you’d better check to make sure they’re running on different frequencies; otherwise, you’re going to experience some strange results… — Fred Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^( > On May 18, 2019, at 6:25 PM, bwhitmore via CnC-List > wrote: > > Hello all, > > I bought a Garmin Echomap Plus 94SV and transducer that is on sale at West > Marine. This comes with a good transducer that will map out the bottom, act > as a fish finder, etc.On most boats, the transducer can be mounted in the > bilge and will fire through the fiberglass sufficiently. We, however, have a > cored hull. > > If worse comes to worst, we get depth data via the existing transducer, but > I'd like the added functionality. > > Does anyone know if there is a spot around the keel where the hull is not > cored and it might work? > > Does anyone have a drawing that shows where the hull is, and is not cored? > > Thanks! > > Bruce Whitmore ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
