Stus-List Re: Deck painting
My Interdeck paint job started with deck cleaner and a stick brush. Rinse well. Then Chlorox powder and a stiff brush. Rinse well. FinallyTSP and the stiff brush. Rinse well. Let dry. Then paint. Except for my areas of amine blush that worked wel. Rick Brass Sent from my iPad > On Feb 27, 2021, at 12:49, Dennis C. via CnC-List > wrote: > > Many years ago, I did a job overlaying the gelcoat non-skid sections of a > deck with new non-skid gelcoat. I double washed/scrubbed the sections with > TSP (triple superphosphate) before applying the new gelcoat. It stuck. > > -- > Dennis C. > Touche' 35-1 #83 > Mandeville, LA > >> On Sat, Feb 27, 2021 at 11:17 AM Dave S via CnC-List >> wrote: >> Fwiw I cannot see how you could reliably prep the textured area after >> decades of contamination by who knows what, while still retaining the >> original texture. Where mine is wearing it is also porous, making the issue >> worse.When I do this kind of work I use cleaners, soap and water and >> usually scrub with acetone and a wire brush, depending. Then sand. >> >> > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: Deck painting
Many years ago, I did a job overlaying the gelcoat non-skid sections of a deck with new non-skid gelcoat. I double washed/scrubbed the sections with TSP (triple superphosphate) before applying the new gelcoat. It stuck. -- Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Sat, Feb 27, 2021 at 11:17 AM Dave S via CnC-List wrote: > Fwiw I cannot see how you could reliably prep the textured area after > decades of contamination by who knows what, while still retaining the > original texture. Where mine is wearing it is also porous, making the > issue worse.When I do this kind of work I use cleaners, soap and water > and usually scrub with acetone and a wire brush, depending. Then sand. > > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: Deck painting
Fwiw I cannot see how you could reliably prep the textured area after decades of contamination by who knows what, while still retaining the original texture. Where mine is wearing it is also porous, making the issue worse.When I do this kind of work I use cleaners, soap and water and usually scrub with acetone and a wire brush, depending. Then sand. If/when I paint I expect I will simply sand what’s left of the texture off and re-do. Might take a little more courage and time but I bet it would be less work over time and would yield a better result. That said, if the finish is adequate for the owners enjoyment for many years anyway, the difference is immaterial. Dave Sent from my iPhone > On Feb 26, 2021, at 3:19 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List > wrote: > > > On mine, they took the gelcoat texture right down. They said it was the only > way to guarantee good adhesion. The deck was painted during the POs tenure > by roll and tip method and they tried to just scotch pad it, prime and finish > but, you could see where the paint was lifting in the lows of the non skid > areas. It wasn't bad, you could just see the primer in those areas and they > were small and uniform. So, the non skid just appeared to be a different > shade of white. Eventually, the whole paintjob was failing. I'd say it > lasted 10 to 12 years though. Of course, the downside is that it made the > next paintjob (this one) a lot more difficult... > > > > -- Original Message -- > From: "Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List" > To: Danny Haughey via CnC-List > Cc: "Ronald B. Frerker" > Subject: Stus-List Re: Deck painting > Date: Fri, 26 Feb 2021 19:39:51 + (UTC) > > > This brings up a question I've been wondering about: How does one > effectively sand non-skid portions of the deck? I can't see how the > sandpaper would get into the stipled surface. Or is there an alternative to > sandpaper that I'm not aware of? > I can scrub with soapy water and power wash, but it seems like sanding would > only knock the tops off the non-skid. What gives the "bite" for the paint to > hold in the depressed parts? > Ron > Wild Cheri > C 30-1 > STL > > > On Friday, February 26, 2021, 04:37:50 AM CST, Danny Haughey via CnC-List > wrote: > > I just had my decks painted this year. They painted each part separately. > Stripped and sanded everything down. Then masked off the non skid areas to > prime and finish the smooth areas before masking off the newly finished areas > and addressing the non skid. > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: New sails, new wind
Not surprisingly, I got lost in the forest and forgot about the tree!
I went with 155% based on what others use in the Southport, NC area but
slightly heavier weight to survive the average higher breeze there vs. the
upper Neuse river.
Charlie
Sent from the all new Aol app for iOS
On Saturday, February 27, 2021, 6:16 AM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List
wrote:
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You did not tell us what size headsail you went with, that wasthe most
discussed aspect of the whole diatribe!
( I think you mean Nordac?) those are usually pretty robustsails.
Bill Coleman
Entrada, Erie, PA
From: Charlie Nelson viaCnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: Friday, February 26, 2021 3:46 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: cenel...@aol.com
Subject: Stus-List Re: New sails, new wind
Just a short note to thanks all who chimed in on my head sailquestion.
The short story is that I decided to go with a 3Di Nordiccomposite sail
(so-called light/medium) that has a maximum AWS wind of ~ 16knots. The light
wind equivalent has a maximum AWS wind of ~ 12 knots and Ialready have a
lightly used light air (maximum AWS of ~ 8 knots) so I opted forthe lt./med
since the light air was covered and the expected coastal winds areabout 2 knots
higher (7 vs. 5.5 knots) than those in the upper Neuse riverwhere I have done
most of my racing to date. I also have an almost new 140%(Hood Vectran) and a
bullet proof 90% from North. Thus I have a reasonable(IMHO) set of upwind sails
for my racer/cruiser for local club racing. I alsohave both a 3/4 oz. masthead
symmetrical kite and a smaller, stronger reachingkite.
I appreciate the comments on changing head sails to meet theconditions,
etc.,--in an ideal world this is the solution. OTOH, in my world,finding enough
KNOWLEDGEABLE crew (6+ depending on wind) to race is almostimpossible for local
regattas and not that easy even for something likeCRW.
So here is how I compromise, to wit:
1). All my head sails are used on a furler. Thus headsail changeson the fly are
not possible even on the rare days that my crew is both numerousand
knowledgeable. All buoy races are done with the headsail that crosses
thestarting line--although it may get changed between races.
2). Most of my racing is now in non-spin. SAFELY handling a masthead kite in
winds > 12 knots with limited crew (number and knowledge) isnot easy and when
the inevitable goes 'awry', people can and do get hurt--oneof my most
experienced crew was slammed to the foredeck by an errant kite guy afew years
ago and was evaluated for a concussion at a local hospital as soon aswe got off
the water. Fortunately he was OK but this is not something I want torepeat.
Note he was my most experienced crew!
3). Since I cannot change head sails on the fly (see 1), I preferto use the
largest headsail I can since I need it for downwind sail area. Ifind it easier
and quicker to reef the main and rarely furl the headsail toreduce sail area
upwind.
4). The bottom is painted yearly and scrubbed/wiped down beforeeach race by a
diver. Currently I use Petit Vivid, a hard ablative and plan totry Odyssey this
year.
5). I usually have 5-6 regular crew, most of whom have been racingwith me for
5-10 years. The only ones that I have lost left for medicalreasons, moved out
of the area or went cruising. Believe me, I know theimportance of good crew as
well as how to keep them on board. Note that this is1-2 shy of the 8
knowledgeable crew I believe are required to race my boat toher potential,
especially in a breeze.
I am sure there are more compromises in my racing efforts but evenwith these
above, I find after ~ 25 years of club racing that I still enjoy thethrill of
the competition, the joy of occasionally passing or even beating acompetitor
and, of course, the agony of analyzing WTF we messed up as we hadback to the
dock for sandwiches and adult beverages!! Even in the latter case,I am
confident that there will always be another race where there is thepotential to
do better! Like a golfer, all it takes is one good shot on thecourse to make
him/her return. For a club racer, all it takes is a well sailed,competitive
race for me to return.
So
Stus-List Re: Anchor chain hook on bow?
When I bought Windstar, she had a semi rusted conventional chain hook on a short length of line tossed in the anchor locker, along with her 50’ of chain and 150’ 4-plait rode. Didn’t take long to learn why. I had contemplated adding fixed gadgets to accomplish what you describe (‘taking a load off off your shoulders/buying time) but I’ve found that the versatility and simplicity of the hook is probably best for me, all things considered. I use it often. If I had a windlass and always anchored ‘on chain’ it would be different but sometimes -usually- simple is best IMO. I have a bowline tied into one end and I can luggage tag the line into the toe rail, loop it over the cleat, whatever. On my project list is making it Prettier with new rope and a braided eye, and maybe some chafe protection like a down east schoonerman, but that’s it. Dave. Windstar 33-2 Sent from my iPhone > On Feb 26, 2021, at 5:21 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List > wrote: > > I mounted one of these between the locker and the roller. I bungie it up > when dropping and let it ride on the chain on the way up. I also use it to > take the tension off the windlass any time the anchor is set or up. > > https://www.fisheriessupply.com/lewmar-anchor-lock/66840069 > > Tom B > > At 01:25 PM 2/26/2021, you wrote: >> Hi Bruce- Did you get any suggestions? I have the same issue and have not >> found a solution I like yet. Dave >> >> S/V Aries >> 1990 C 34+ >> New London, CT >> >> >> >>> On Jan 8, 2020, at 10:40 PM, bwhitmore via CnC-List >>> wrote: >>> >>> >>> Hello all, >>> >>> I was reading through one of the sailing magazines, and there was >>> commentary about the value of a windlass or "at least an anchor chain hook" >>> you can use to take a break when hoisting anchor. >>> >>> While I don't feel the need for a windlass yet, I have had situations when >>> raising the anchor where I've needed to wrap chain around one of the >>> forward cleats because a wind gust is blowing me off. This usually results >>> in some chain finding its way through my hands, and much more concerning is >>> the chance for hands to be caught between the chain and the cleat with >>> crushingly obvious consequences. If I had the ability to easily hook the >>> chain to hold it while the bow swings off the wind or for the purposes of >>> pulling the hook out of the mud would be helpful. >>> >>> Is there such a hook that can be permanently mounted on the bow/anchor >>> roller where I could simply put the chain under moderate tension for a >>> minute or two while things get sorted out? >>> >>> Thanks in advance for your insights, >>> >>> Bruce Whitmore >>> C 37/40+ "Astralis" >>> Madeira Beach, FL >>> >>> >>> Sent from Samsung tablet. >>> >>> ___ >>> >>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and >>> every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use >>> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> >> >> >> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with >> the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use >> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu > > .¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤. > Tom & Lynn Buscaglia > SV Alera > C 37+/40 > Vashon Island WA > (206) 463-9200 > www.sv-alera.com > > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Rendezvous Reminder
Just a short reminder that we will be hosting our Zoomer Virtual Rendezvous on Tuesday, March 2, 2021 07:00 PM Eastern Time (US and Canada) Please register in advance for this meeting: https://us02web.zoom.us/meeting/register/tZYsf-qtrj4iE9LXUBj7mpO6xs2n7sRj75Yd After registering, you will receive instructions containing information about joining the meeting. Stay safe & healthy Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: Deck painting
I did the non skid areas on Alianna 74, 35MKII with International Perfection with brush and roller and added International non skid compound. Surface prep including final wash with trisodium phosphate solution and rinse and dry is very important. I taped off the smooth areas (big job) and after the non skid areas had cured I removed the tape a coated with International perfection no non skid compound added. The non skid areas had very aggressive roughness which solved the slipping problem and had an improved appearance. About 3 years later I washed everything down again and recoated everything with International Brightside. The non skid areas retained lots of non skid. You will need a few days of good weather if you do this outdoors and it would be good to have a helper. Bugs and birds can cause problems. On Fri, Feb 26, 2021 at 7:18 PM John McCrea via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Previous owner did my decks with Interdeck. Had it done by a pro but looks > great. Problem is he just did side decks and used gray. So original cabin > top and cockpit is white. Will be redoing all in the future. > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Feb 26, 2021, at 5:41 PM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > > > Sorry if this is a duplicate, but I sent the message below but didn't > receive it from the list. Just wondering if anyone got it. And curious > about an answer as well. > Ron > > This brings up a question I've been wondering about: How does one > effectively sand non-skid portions of the deck? I can't see how the > sandpaper would get into the stipled surface. Or is there an alternative > to sandpaper that I'm not aware of? > I can scrub with soapy water and power wash, but it seems like sanding > would only knock the tops off the non-skid. What gives the "bite" for the > paint to hold in the depressed parts? > Ron > Wild Cheri > C 30-1 > STL > > > > > On Friday, February 26, 2021, 04:37:50 AM CST, Danny Haughey via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > I just had my decks painted this year. They painted each part > separately. Stripped and sanded everything down. > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks > - Stu > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks > - Stu -- Sent from Gmail Mobile Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
