Stus-List Re: Garboard

[Richard Bush via CnC-List]

 Ron, do you have any photos of your setup? Thanks
 
Richard
 
Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255 
 
-Original Message-
From: RON CASCIATO via CnC-List 
To: Stus-List 
Cc: RON CASCIATO 
Sent: Mon, Nov 22, 2021 10:22 pm
Subject: Stus-List Re: Garboard

Agreed, we did this on Impromptu almost 7-8 years ago. We drilled the hole a 
quarter inch below the floor of the bilge...FROM THE OUTSIDE!!!I think the 
diameter of the threaded piece is 1", I took it to Home Depot and found a male 
adapter that fitand pieced a 6" piece of PVC with a 45 degree angled 
endBilge drains dry and no water running down the keel.The drain unscrews 
out and the plug sits just under the hull surface.we swipe it with a dollop 
of Bondo and bottom paint.End of season, we just pick out the 1" circle of 
Bondo and screw the PVC drain back in.An easy DYI projectRon Casciato 
ImpromptuC&C 38 MKII..'77
On Nov 22, 2021 4:50 PM, WILLIAM WALKER via CnC-List  
wrote:

 Finally Did this 2 years ago..best thing ever did for the boat.  Look in 
archives, there is recent thread with good ideas Bill Walker
On Monday, November 22, 2021, 09:26:16 AM EST, Tom Sancton via CnC-List 
 wrote:  
 
 
Looking at putting a garboard on my 35 mark 3. Has anyone done this? Looking at 
leaving my mast up but concerned about water entering the boat through the mast 
 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - StuThanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Garboard

[RON CASCIATO via CnC-List]

Agreed, we did this on Impromptu almost 7-8 years ago. We drilled the hole a quarter inch below the floor of the bilge...FROM THE OUTSIDE!!!I think the diameter of the threaded piece is 1", I took it to Home Depot and found a male adapter that fitand pieced a 6" piece of PVC with a 45 degree angled endBilge drains dry and no water running down the keel.The drain unscrews out and the plug sits just under the hull surface.we swipe it with a dollop of Bondo and bottom paint.End of season, we just pick out the 1" circle of Bondo and screw the PVC drain back in.An easy DYI projectRon Casciato ImpromptuC&C 38 MKII..'77On Nov 22, 2021 4:50 PM, WILLIAM WALKER via CnC-List  wrote:
Finally Did this 2 years ago..best thing ever did for the boat.  Look in archives, there is recent thread with good ideas Bill Walker





On Monday, November 22, 2021, 09:26:16 AM EST, Tom Sancton via CnC-List  wrote:



Looking at putting a garboard on my 35 mark 3. Has anyone done this? Looking at leaving my mast up but concerned about water entering the boat through the mast

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Garboard

[Paul Hood via CnC-List]

Put one in a couple years ago.  Extremely happy with it and only disappointed 
that I didn’t do it earlier.  IMO, its really a necessity in our part of the 
world for winter storage when leaving the mast up.  Easy to put in/out plug 
each year.

 

Thanks,

Paul Hood

416-799-5549

 

From: dwight veinot via CnC-List  
Sent: November 22, 2021 5:39 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: dwight veinot 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Garboard

 

I drill the same half inch diameter hole from the low point in the bilge to 
outside on a downward angle and every spring I plug that hole with thickened 
epoxy. Works good

 

On Mon, Nov 22, 2021 at 10:26 AM Tom Sancton via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:


Looking at putting a garboard on my 35 mark 3. Has anyone done this? Looking at 
leaving my mast up but concerned about water entering the boat through the mast.

Sent from my iPhone
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

-- 

Sent from Gmail Mobile

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Garboard

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

I drill the same half inch diameter hole from the low point in the bilge to
outside on a downward angle and every spring I plug that hole with
thickened epoxy. Works good

On Mon, Nov 22, 2021 at 10:26 AM Tom Sancton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> Looking at putting a garboard on my 35 mark 3. Has anyone done this?
> Looking at leaving my mast up but concerned about water entering the boat
> through the mast.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
-- 
Sent from Gmail Mobile
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Garboard

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

I think the best trick is to use two powerful magnets, one inside, and one
outside.  Move the inside magnet and the outside one will follow.  Move the
inside one to the lowest spot you can get to, where you want the garboard
drain to be, and the magnet outside will show you where to drill the hole.

Ken H.

On Mon, 22 Nov 2021 at 17:50, WILLIAM WALKER via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Finally Did this 2 years ago..best thing ever did for the boat.
> Look in archives, there is recent thread with good ideas
> Bill Walker
>
> On Monday, November 22, 2021, 09:26:16 AM EST, Tom Sancton via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> Looking at putting a garboard on my 35 mark 3. Has anyone done this?
> Looking at leaving my mast up but concerned about water entering the boat
> through the mast
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Garboard

[WILLIAM WALKER via CnC-List]

 Finally Did this 2 years ago..best thing ever did for the boat.  Look in 
archives, there is recent thread with good ideas Bill Walker
On Monday, November 22, 2021, 09:26:16 AM EST, Tom Sancton via CnC-List 
 wrote:  
 
 
Looking at putting a garboard on my 35 mark 3. Has anyone done this? Looking at 
leaving my mast up but concerned about water entering the boat through the mast 
 Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Digital Panel Meter

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

You have to match frequency and phase too. The real low budget way for small 
generators was a light bulb, the bulb was connected between them and the more 
the mismatch, the brighter is was. When it went dark you threw the interconnect 
closed in a hurry before they drifted out of phase again.
Joe
Coquina

From: Martin DeYoung 
Sent: Monday, November 22, 2021 2:43 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Digital Panel Meter

Back in the early 70’s the chief electrical engineer at our transformer design 
and manufacturing company related a story that detailed the disastrous results 
of a mismatch between the electrical grid and a small hydroelectric generator 
in upstate New York. IIRC it occurred between WWII and the Korean war, back 
when the frequencies were matched by hand. They had analog meters.

As the first hand story was told to me, an inattentive tech connected the small 
hydro plant without precisely matching the frequency. The “small” generator 
(several tons in weight) was thrown off it’s mounts and out of the building in 
its attempt to sync with the grid.

I bet there was a lot of paperwork after that screw up.
Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C&C 43
Port Ludlow/Seattle


Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Garboard

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

OH...why didn't I think of this?

On 11/22/2021 9:55 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote:
I had one installed on The Office. It probably wasn't necessary, in 
Annapolis,
If you install one, screw in a short pipe nipple so the water does 
not run down the keel.


On Mon, Nov 22, 2021 at 9:26 AM Tom Sancton via CnC-List 
 wrote:



Looking at putting a garboard on my 35 mark 3. Has anyone done
this? Looking at leaving my mast up but concerned about water
entering the boat through the mast.

Sent from my iPhone
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to
help with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to
the list - use PayPal to send contribution --
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu



--
Joel


Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --https://www.paypal.me/stumurray   Thanks - StuThanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Digital Panel Meter

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

Back in the early 70’s the chief electrical engineer at our transformer design 
and manufacturing company related a story that detailed the disastrous results 
of a mismatch between the electrical grid and a small hydroelectric generator 
in upstate New York. IIRC it occurred between WWII and the Korean war, back 
when the frequencies were matched by hand. They had analog meters.

As the first hand story was told to me, an inattentive tech connected the small 
hydro plant without precisely matching the frequency. The “small” generator 
(several tons in weight) was thrown off it’s mounts and out of the building in 
its attempt to sync with the grid.

I bet there was a lot of paperwork after that screw up.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C&C 43
Port Ludlow/Seattle

On Nov 22, 2021, at 9:26 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
 wrote:


The frequency should be 60 Hz, period. The way the power grid works would cause 
an emergency disconnect of your local generator from the grid if it gets off of 
60 or a disconnect of your grid ties to the wider world. The results of not 
doing this can include your local power plant physically coming apart.
If you saw a low frequency from a shore power connection something is very 
wrong somewhere. The only readings I have ever seen from shore power are 59.9, 
60, and 60.1.
(A very quick explanation, any generator is a motor and vice-vera. Commercial 
power plants are all connected together, so if one gets out of synch all the 
other ones can try and force it to do something like speed way up or turn the 
other direction, which would have disastrous results for anyone standing near 
it)

The company that made your meter is here:
Brighton Electronics
sa...@beimeter.com
503-624-7116
866-837-8371

I bet if you give them a call they can point you at a place to get another one.

From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, November 22, 2021 11:46 AM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: Bill Coleman 
Subject: Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Digital Panel Meter

If it is there, I would like it working, is all.
It was interesting to watch the progress of the Frequency coming back up, along 
with volts, as I was trying to bring life into four large, nearly dead 
batteries at Jabins a few years ago – took a few days, pulling through a 150 
foot extension cord on the hard.
I just thought if someone had replaced a similar volt or ammeter they might 
have a good source. Have not had much luck on Flea Bay.


Bill Coleman
Entrada, Erie, PA



There are tons and tons of them on Amazon and FleaBay, but matching the size is 
tricky. Also note that a frequency meter for shore power is a bit odd, what are 
you going to do if it is wrong? Call the power company?
99% of the time I see them on boats with generators or sometimes boats that 
travel to places that might have 50Hz power.


Joe Della Barba
Coquina



Does anyone have a source for the Panel Meters, specifically a frequency meter 
for shore power? The manufacturer is Brighton Electronics, altho still around, 
They don't seem to sell retail. The Cutout hole is 2 3/8" x 15/16" ( 60 mm X 
23.8).







Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Digital Panel Meter

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

The frequency should be 60 Hz, period. The way the power grid works would cause 
an emergency disconnect of your local generator from the grid if it gets off of 
60 or a disconnect of your grid ties to the wider world. The results of not 
doing this can include your local power plant physically coming apart.
If you saw a low frequency from a shore power connection something is very 
wrong somewhere. The only readings I have ever seen from shore power are 59.9, 
60, and 60.1.
(A very quick explanation, any generator is a motor and vice-vera. Commercial 
power plants are all connected together, so if one gets out of synch all the 
other ones can try and force it to do something like speed way up or turn the 
other direction, which would have disastrous results for anyone standing near 
it)

The company that made your meter is here:
Brighton Electronics
sa...@beimeter.com
503-624-7116
866-837-8371

I bet if you give them a call they can point you at a place to get another one.

From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, November 22, 2021 11:46 AM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: Bill Coleman 
Subject: Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Digital Panel Meter

If it is there, I would like it working, is all.
It was interesting to watch the progress of the Frequency coming back up, along 
with volts, as I was trying to bring life into four large, nearly dead 
batteries at Jabins a few years ago – took a few days, pulling through a 150 
foot extension cord on the hard.
I just thought if someone had replaced a similar volt or ammeter they might 
have a good source. Have not had much luck on Flea Bay.


Bill Coleman
Entrada, Erie, PA



There are tons and tons of them on Amazon and FleaBay, but matching the size is 
tricky. Also note that a frequency meter for shore power is a bit odd, what are 
you going to do if it is wrong? Call the power company?
99% of the time I see them on boats with generators or sometimes boats that 
travel to places that might have 50Hz power.


Joe Della Barba
Coquina



Does anyone have a source for the Panel Meters, specifically a frequency meter 
for shore power? The manufacturer is Brighton Electronics, altho still around, 
They don't seem to sell retail. The Cutout hole is 2 3/8" x 15/16" ( 60 mm X 
23.8).

[FrequencyMeter.jpg]




Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Digital Panel Meter

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

If it is there, I would like it working, is all.

It was interesting to watch the progress of the Frequency coming back up, along 
with volts, as I was trying to bring life into four large, nearly dead 
batteries at Jabins a few years ago – took a few days, pulling through a 150 
foot extension cord on the hard.

I just thought if someone had replaced a similar volt or ammeter they might 
have a good source. Have not had much luck on Flea Bay.

 

 

Bill Coleman

Entrada, Erie, PA

 

 

 

There are tons and tons of them on Amazon and FleaBay, but matching the size is 
tricky. Also note that a frequency meter for shore power is a bit odd, what are 
you going to do if it is wrong? Call the power company?

99% of the time I see them on boats with generators or sometimes boats that 
travel to places that might have 50Hz power.

 

 

Joe Della Barba

Coquina

 

 

Does anyone have a source for the Panel Meters, specifically a frequency meter 
for shore power? The manufacturer is Brighton Electronics, altho still around, 
They don't seem to sell retail. The Cutout hole is 2 3/8" x 15/16" ( 60 mm X 
23.8).

FrequencyMeter.jpg

 

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Digital Panel Meter

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

There are tons and tons of them on Amazon and FleaBay, but matching the size is 
tricky. Also note that a frequency meter for shore power is a bit odd, what are 
you going to do if it is wrong? Call the power company?
99% of the time I see them on boats with generators or sometimes boats that 
travel to places that might have 50Hz power.


Joe Della Barba
Coquina

From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, November 20, 2021 3:04 PM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: Bill Coleman 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Digital Panel Meter


Does anyone have a source for the Panel Meters, specifically a frequency meter 
for shore power? The manufacturer is Brighton Electronics, altho still around, 
They don't seem to sell retail. The Cutout hole is 2 3/8" x 15/16" ( 60 mm X 
23.8).

[FrequencyMeter.jpg]



Bill Coleman

Entrada, Erie, PA




Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Edson Steering Sheave Assembly Bolt Failure.

[jason shoemake via CnC-List]

Hi all!
I’m looking at the same problem with mine, 29-1, 1978. I’m thinking it’ll be 
easier, less boat bucks and leave a roomier cockpit to switch to a tiller. My 
idler plate looked fine until I touched it, finger sunk right  into this 
“steel” plate. Then with screwdriver and such I was able to easily crumble away 
probably a third of the original mass… SCARY to say the least. The paint held 
its shape really well!  
Thoughts on changing out pedestal for a tiller?
I don’t have instruments on binnacle, compass is the only thing that will have 
to be replaced. 

Cheers, 
Jason Shoemake  
1978 C&C 29-1
Mississippi 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 22, 2021, at 6:43 AM, Blair Clark via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> Hi there
> 
> I performed the idler plate and sheave replacement project last year on our 
> 1990 C&C 34 +. We now have a stainless-steel idler plate and reconditioned 
> sheaves.
> 
> The four base bolts on our model self-tap into nuts fixed into the floor of 
> the cockpit. I had to however cut an access hole in the liner of the aft 
> cabin to access the binnacle guard "feet" holders. when doing this I cut it 
> rectangular and then screwed the cut-out piece to a teak picture frame that i 
> made and then this mounts to the head liner of aft cabin to look original.
> 
> Four critical points I learned were:
> Thickness of the current aluminum idler plates stocked by Edson is much 
> thicker than the original. This is one reason why I went with customer 
> Stainless steel plate. Raising the base of the pedestal will affect how your 
> compass interacts with equipment on the binnacle guard.
> Edson advises that original manufactures, including C&C, often modify the 
> idler plates when they were received from Edson. Therefore, either be 
> prepared to modify on site when you receive a new plate from Edson or create 
> an accurate plate template and send to Edson and ask them to follow the 
> footprint.
> New sheave arms have a wider width than the original. This can cause a 
> problem when you are going to align the steering cables as for in my case I 
> could not close the angle enough with the new sheave arms to match the run of 
> the cables to the radial drum. This is why I had the original sheave arms 
> professionally inspected and reconditioned by Edson.
> I would not rely on the fact that a boat was primarily used in a freshwater 
> environment to give me comfort when considering idler plate maintenance. The 
> original material was light steel and as my boat was only out of fresh water 
> for the last 4 years before I purchased it I believe it must have suffered 
> most of the plate corrosion during time in fresh water. This is a mission 
> critical piece of gear that should be checked periodically in any 
> environment. My extreme gratitude goes out to fellow lister Chuck who spurred 
> me to action. 
> I am extremely happy that I made this upgrade as I am much more confident and 
> before doing so did not know the risk we were running with original plate.
> 
> Another lesson learned to consider may be that if you choose to go with the 
> custom stainless steel plate choice you may want to consider having a local 
> fabricator make the unit despite the effort to help by Edson. This is because 
> Edson will have to make a custom plate as well and if there are any 
> unexpected modifications that need to be made specific to your application 
> than it may be speedier to have it done close to home.
> 
> Hope this helps.
> 
> Blair
> Coincidence C&C 34+
> 
> From: Dave S via CnC-List 
> Sent: November 20, 2021 11:17 AM
> To: Stus-List 
> Cc: John McCrea ; Dave S 
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Edson Steering Sheave Assembly Bolt Failure.
>  
> I haven’t tackled mine, and as it’s a freshwater boat there’s no corrosion to 
> speak of, and it doesn’t appear to be leaking.  
> 
> I have been curious about the deck in this area.  How was the deck 
> penetration dealt with?  Is it cored in that area?  Was it reinforced or 
> protected from water intrusion?  
> Thx.
> 
> Dave 33-2
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>>> On Nov 20, 2021, at 10:08 AM, John McCrea via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>> Yes they are the four through bolts that hold the pedestal in place. I will 
>> contact Edson for replacements just curious if anyone else had them fail. 
>> Will also be resealing pedestal to stop water intrusion. Thanks. 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On Nov 20, 2021, at 8:02 AM, Steve Thomas via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> 
>>> I believe that the bolts in question are the through-the-deck bolts that 
>>> secure the pedestal to the deck. They are also the only aluminum bolts that 
>>> I know of that were once "standard" on Edson pedestal steering systems. If 
>>> I am wrong on the latter, I am certain that others will chime in. :) 
>>> Steve Thomas
>>> 
>>> 1980 C&C36 MKI
>>> 
>>> 1978 C&C27 MKIII
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> -- Original Message --
>>> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.co

Stus-List Re: Garboard

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

I had one installed on The Office. It probably wasn't necessary, in
Annapolis,
If you install one, screw in a short pipe nipple so the water does not run
down the keel.

On Mon, Nov 22, 2021 at 9:26 AM Tom Sancton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> Looking at putting a garboard on my 35 mark 3. Has anyone done this?
> Looking at leaving my mast up but concerned about water entering the boat
> through the mast.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>


-- 
Joel
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Garboard

[Jeffrey A. Laman via CnC-List]

Do it! I and a friend both installed garboard drains spring 2020 on C&C34 and 
C&C36. As we both live several hours drive from boats in winter we had to 
impose on others to climb aboard in winter to check bilge and pump out 
periodically. Pain. Now, worry free and boat is very dry. Place a length of 
cotton clothes line in hole to wick out last drop. One of the better projects 
you can do on a boat.

Jeff Laman
1981 C&C34 "Harmony"
Ludington, Mi

Get Outlook for Android

From: Tom Sancton via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, November 22, 2021 9:25:58 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Tom Sancton 
Subject: Stus-List Garboard


Looking at putting a garboard on my 35 mark 3. Has anyone done this? Looking at 
leaving my mast up but concerned about water entering the boat through the mast.

Sent from my iPhone
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   
https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.paypal.me%2Fstumurray&data=04%7C01%7C%7C8dd28e9a33ac413a71ae08d9adc41344%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C637731879910809698%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000&sdata=axCpW5S%2BVb2x2l6aQn6N6tMOyxAkNeWGmNolX%2F%2BlYa8%3D&reserved=0
  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Garboard

[Tom Sancton via CnC-List]

Looking at putting a garboard on my 35 mark 3. Has anyone done this? Looking at 
leaving my mast up but concerned about water entering the boat through the mast.

Sent from my iPhone
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Edson Steering Sheave Assembly Bolt Failure.

[John McCrea via CnC-List]

Thanks for the great info! 

 

From: Blair Clark via CnC-List  
Sent: Monday, November 22, 2021 7:43 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: John McCrea ; Blair Clark 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Edson Steering Sheave Assembly Bolt Failure.

 

Hi there

 

I performed the idler plate and sheave replacement project last year on our 
1990 C&C 34 +. We now have a stainless-steel idler plate and reconditioned 
sheaves.

 

The four base bolts on our model self-tap into nuts fixed into the floor of the 
cockpit. I had to however cut an access hole in the liner of the aft cabin to 
access the binnacle guard "feet" holders. when doing this I cut it rectangular 
and then screwed the cut-out piece to a teak picture frame that i made and then 
this mounts to the head liner of aft cabin to look original.

 

Four critical points I learned were:

1.  Thickness of the current aluminum idler plates stocked by Edson is much 
thicker than the original. This is one reason why I went with customer 
Stainless steel plate. Raising the base of the pedestal will affect how your 
compass interacts with equipment on the binnacle guard.
2.  Edson advises that original manufactures, including C&C, often modify 
the idler plates when they were received from Edson. Therefore, either be 
prepared to modify on site when you receive a new plate from Edson or create an 
accurate plate template and send to Edson and ask them to follow the footprint.
3.  New sheave arms have a wider width than the original. This can cause a 
problem when you are going to align the steering cables as for in my case I 
could not close the angle enough with the new sheave arms to match the run of 
the cables to the radial drum. This is why I had the original sheave arms 
professionally inspected and reconditioned by Edson.
4.  I would not rely on the fact that a boat was primarily used in a 
freshwater environment to give me comfort when considering idler plate 
maintenance. The original material was light steel and as my boat was only out 
of fresh water for the last 4 years before I purchased it I believe it must 
have suffered most of the plate corrosion during time in fresh water. This is a 
mission critical piece of gear that should be checked periodically in any 
environment. My extreme gratitude goes out to fellow lister Chuck who spurred 
me to action. 

I am extremely happy that I made this upgrade as I am much more confident and 
before doing so did not know the risk we were running with original plate.

 

Another lesson learned to consider may be that if you choose to go with the 
custom stainless steel plate choice you may want to consider having a local 
fabricator make the unit despite the effort to help by Edson. This is because 
Edson will have to make a custom plate as well and if there are any unexpected 
modifications that need to be made specific to your application than it may be 
speedier to have it done close to home.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Blair

Coincidence C&C 34+

 

  _  

From: Dave S via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
>
Sent: November 20, 2021 11:17 AM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: John McCrea mailto:johnmcc...@comcast.net> >; Dave 
S mailto:syerd...@gmail.com> >
Subject: Stus-List Re: Edson Steering Sheave Assembly Bolt Failure. 

 

I haven’t tackled mine, and as it’s a freshwater boat there’s no corrosion to 
speak of, and it doesn’t appear to be leaking.   

 

I have been curious about the deck in this area.  How was the deck penetration 
dealt with?  Is it cored in that area?  Was it reinforced or protected from 
water intrusion?  

Thx.

 

Dave 33-2

 

 

Sent from my iPhone





On Nov 20, 2021, at 10:08 AM, John McCrea via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Yes they are the four through bolts that hold the pedestal in place. I will 
contact Edson for replacements just curious if anyone else had them fail. Will 
also be resealing pedestal to stop water intrusion. Thanks.  

 

Sent from my iPhone





On Nov 20, 2021, at 8:02 AM, Steve Thomas via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

I believe that the bolts in question are the through-the-deck bolts that secure 
the pedestal to the deck. They are also the only aluminum bolts that I know of 
that were once "standard" on Edson pedestal steering systems. If I am wrong on 
the latter, I am certain that others will chime in. :) 

Steve Thomas

1980 C&C36 MKI

1978 C&C27 MKIII

 

-- Original Message --
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: shawngwri...@gmail.com  
Sent: Friday, November 19, 2021 8:42 PM
Subject: Stus-List Re: Edson Steering Sheave Assembly Bolt Failure.

Can you share any photos of the bolts in question? Are these above deck, or 
below? I'm not aware of any aluminum bolts in my pedestal, but they may have 
been replaced with stainless steel. There is one SS round head machine 

Stus-List Re: Rudder shaft play

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Hi John

On Persistence we replaced the rudder bushings last off season. Persistence is 
a 1987 Frers 33 but the process is likely very similar.  Our play was as much 
from wear on the rudder post as from the bushings and there was some pitting 
where the rudder post meets the rudder. These are two things to look out for 
and to address.

The entire project was documented here: 
http://www.hoytsailing.com/RudderBearing.htm

Mike Hoyt
Persistence
Halifax, NS



From: John Read via CnC-List 
Sent: November 20, 2021 7:09 PM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: John Read 
Subject: Stus-List Rudder shaft play

After 40 years the rudder now has a bit of play laterally and fore and aft.  
Bottom of rudder can be moved less than an inch in all directions.  Not bad but 
should be addressed.  This also is most likely causing the leak through the 
shaft where it penetrates the deck fitting causing the donut to be not true to 
the stainless plate on the cockpit floor.  The design is very simple – shaft 
rides inside tube (with grease) that is glassed into hull, shaft is open from 
top of tube to bottom of cockpit floor to allow steering quadrant , shaft goes 
through hole in cockpit floor, through stainless bearing plate on top of 
cockpit floor, through delrin washer, then shaft is threaded and donut 
installed that rides on delrin washer.
My initial thought is to machine a delrin bearing and washer that would fill 
the small gap between the shaft and hole in the bearing plate / cockpit floor 
but wanted to inquire if anyone else has had similar issues or thoughts

John Read
Legacy III
1982 C&C 34
Noank, CT

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Edson Steering Sheave Assembly Bolt Failure.

[Blair Clark via CnC-List]

Hi there

I performed the idler plate and sheave replacement project last year on our 
1990 C&C 34 +. We now have a stainless-steel idler plate and reconditioned 
sheaves.

The four base bolts on our model self-tap into nuts fixed into the floor of the 
cockpit. I had to however cut an access hole in the liner of the aft cabin to 
access the binnacle guard "feet" holders. when doing this I cut it rectangular 
and then screwed the cut-out piece to a teak picture frame that i made and then 
this mounts to the head liner of aft cabin to look original.

Four critical points I learned were:

  1.  Thickness of the current aluminum idler plates stocked by Edson is much 
thicker than the original. This is one reason why I went with customer 
Stainless steel plate. Raising the base of the pedestal will affect how your 
compass interacts with equipment on the binnacle guard.
  2.  Edson advises that original manufactures, including C&C, often modify the 
idler plates when they were received from Edson. Therefore, either be prepared 
to modify on site when you receive a new plate from Edson or create an accurate 
plate template and send to Edson and ask them to follow the footprint.
  3.  New sheave arms have a wider width than the original. This can cause a 
problem when you are going to align the steering cables as for in my case I 
could not close the angle enough with the new sheave arms to match the run of 
the cables to the radial drum. This is why I had the original sheave arms 
professionally inspected and reconditioned by Edson.
  4.  I would not rely on the fact that a boat was primarily used in a 
freshwater environment to give me comfort when considering idler plate 
maintenance. The original material was light steel and as my boat was only out 
of fresh water for the last 4 years before I purchased it I believe it must 
have suffered most of the plate corrosion during time in fresh water. This is a 
mission critical piece of gear that should be checked periodically in any 
environment. My extreme gratitude goes out to fellow lister Chuck who spurred 
me to action.

I am extremely happy that I made this upgrade as I am much more confident and 
before doing so did not know the risk we were running with original plate.

Another lesson learned to consider may be that if you choose to go with the 
custom stainless steel plate choice you may want to consider having a local 
fabricator make the unit despite the effort to help by Edson. This is because 
Edson will have to make a custom plate as well and if there are any unexpected 
modifications that need to be made specific to your application than it may be 
speedier to have it done close to home.

Hope this helps.

Blair
Coincidence C&C 34+


From: Dave S via CnC-List 
Sent: November 20, 2021 11:17 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: John McCrea ; Dave S 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Edson Steering Sheave Assembly Bolt Failure.

I haven’t tackled mine, and as it’s a freshwater boat there’s no corrosion to 
speak of, and it doesn’t appear to be leaking.

I have been curious about the deck in this area.  How was the deck penetration 
dealt with?  Is it cored in that area?  Was it reinforced or protected from 
water intrusion?
Thx.

Dave 33-2



Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 20, 2021, at 10:08 AM, John McCrea via CnC-List  
wrote:

Yes they are the four through bolts that hold the pedestal in place. I will 
contact Edson for replacements just curious if anyone else had them fail. Will 
also be resealing pedestal to stop water intrusion. Thanks.

Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 20, 2021, at 8:02 AM, Steve Thomas via CnC-List  
wrote:


I believe that the bolts in question are the through-the-deck bolts that secure 
the pedestal to the deck. They are also the only aluminum bolts that I know of 
that were once "standard" on Edson pedestal steering systems. If I am wrong on 
the latter, I am certain that others will chime in. :)

Steve Thomas

1980 C&C36 MKI

1978 C&C27 MKIII


-- Original Message --
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: shawngwri...@gmail.com
Sent: Friday, November 19, 2021 8:42 PM
Subject: Stus-List Re: Edson Steering Sheave Assembly Bolt Failure.

Can you share any photos of the bolts in question? Are these above deck, or 
below? I'm not aware of any aluminum bolts in my pedestal, but they may have 
been replaced with stainless steel. There is one SS round head machine screw 
that is loose and has no material left to grab (threads stripped out) on one of 
the aluminum pieces which fit over the SS tubing at the deck level. As the 
pedestal is solid, I've ignored it for now. Everything below deck looks good 
also, but it's been a year since I checked so it's on the list.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C&C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Fri, Nov 19, 2021 at 1:19 PM John McCrea via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

All,

I was a