Stus-List bed-it butyl tape source
Bed-It Tape: Rod aka "Mainesail" is the guy who developed it along with another company. He survived a stroke last year. He closed down but is now it starting to have it made again. The factory he had custom making it is backlogged with other clients. A production run is in the queue. They expected to be shipping now, but that has been delayed. (I had an order in, but SBO recently sent an email and cancelled my order, and will notify me when they have a confirmed date) Full details here: https://forums.sailboatowners.com/threads/bed-it-tape-is-back.1249933598/?highlight=Bed%20it%20tape SBO Store will initially be the only place you can get it. Cheers, Roy C 30 Mk1 "Minion"
Stus-List bed-it butyl tape source
Still looking for a source for Bed-it butyl tape. Every one I check is sold out or out of stock. Has anyone bought some recently? Chuck S
Stus-List Re: C 37+ Edson chain and wire spec
That's sad customer service at Edson. As someone already said, I believe it's the nine foot cable. I replaced mine and found I needed to cut the cable. I believe they recommended installing it and then taping the cable and cutting off the excess cable ends with a hacksaw or angle grinder. It's pretty easy to do. I believe there is a video on their website. Chuck S > On 10/24/2022 4:26 PM Mark Baldridge via CnC-List > wrote: > > > Hi, > > It's time to replace the steering cable on my C+ > > I called Edson and they do not have the specs for the 37+. They said to > find the chain length and wire length and diameter in order to pick the > right kit. > > I would like to have the new part in hand before I pull out the old one. > Does anyone know the dimensions or correct kit to buy for my boat? > > Thanks, > Mark Baldridge > ~~~_/) > '89 C 37+ #30 "The Edge" > Surf City, NC
Stus-List Re: Blocks under forward most keel bolt material?
Steven, Your photos are causing me to have flashbacks... I dealt with this very issue shortly after I got my boat: when I tightened that keel bolt I heard a crunching sound and the washer under the nut sank about a 1/2" before I realized what was going on. Yes, there is wood beneath the forward-most 3/4" keel bolt. It's a stack of 3" - 4" blocks with a thin (1/8" or so) layer of fiberglass on the top and on the forward face. The forward face is the aft end of the sump under the mast step, in your first photo you're looking at the front of that stack which appears to have lost the fiberglass cover. It looks like they kind of poured glass and resin around the stack to fill in between the wood and the hull. My fix was to put a vertical piece of 3/4"" thick fiberglass board (McMaster Carr) on the front face of the wood, shaped to fit and tabbed into the sides of the sump, then another 3/4" glass board on top of the wood (removed the old stuff) also tabbed in to the side. The top board had a hole to fit over the keel bolt, and its front end landed on the vertical board. I epoxied all the stuff in with lots of filler. FWIW I think that forward keel bolt is an add on, as I have the original 35-1 construction drawing and it just shows only the six 1" bolts and calls for wood filler in the entire sump. The wood and keel bolt line up with the downward sloping forward end of the lead, in line with the "smile". The job was not too complicated but a real PITA, as all the work is down in the sump, hard to get at and not much room to work, but overall doable. I also replaced my sagging mast step at the same time, using layers of the glass board to span over the sump. Also a PITA but apparently others have had to do it as well. Neil Gallagher Weatherly 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 10/24/2022 5:24 PM, steven.hickel--- via CnC-List wrote: I have a C 35 mk I. I don't know what what the blocks under the, at least forward most, keel bolt are made of. It has a sort of wood grain, but feel like rock. The fiberglass on the forward-most keel bolt has separated on the starboard side. There's also a top at least mostly resin layer that seems to be peeling away suddenly under that bolt and in other sections of the bilge between bolts. I'm hoping that the blocks aren't wood inside of resin that have rotted at the bottom and sunk down and caused the laminate around the forward keel bolt to do the same. Can anyone shed any light here? Seems best to post before drilling a hole in the bilge to probe the material. Please see the linked photos https://photos.app.goo.gl/fnTpJJrbdAQ8htiH8 Thank you so much for any help and for this forum
Stus-List Re: C 37+ Edson chain and wire spec
I pulled mine and took it to a local rigging shop. They made me one in about a week. -- Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA > > > > > Oct 24, 2022 16:27:43 Mark Baldridge via CnC-List >: > > > >> Hi, > >> > >> It's time to replace the steering cable on my C+ > >> > >> I called Edson and they do not have the specs for the 37+. They said to > find the chain length and wire length and diameter in order to pick the > right kit. > >> > >> I would like to have the new part in hand before I pull out the old > one. Does anyone know the dimensions or correct kit to buy for my boat? > >> > >> Thanks, > >> Mark Baldridge > >> ~~~_/) > >> '89 C 37+ #30 "The Edge" > >> Surf City, NC >
Stus-List Re: C 37+ Edson chain and wire spec
Be prepared to replace the idler plate under the pedestal. The original plate is steel which suffers from corrosion. Edson doesn’t make a direct replacement. The one that they sell is quite a bit thicker, requiring a spacer between the cockpit sole and the pedestal. I had a machine shop fab one and used drilled bolts to mount the idler pulleys. Fortunately the pedestal comes off easily. Check out the Edson video on their website for pedestal maintenance. Regards, Al Liles SV Elendil 1994 C 37/40+ Vancouver BC > On Oct 24, 2022, at 3:19 PM, Josh via CnC-List wrote: > > There aren't too many options. Measure the height of the pedestal, the > length to the quadrant, and half the circumference of the quadrant, add them > together and you should be close enough to eliminate all the other options. > Its actually a shame cause Rob Ball worked there until he died recently. > > Looking on the website all the chain is the same size. I believe the cable > is 1/4 inch (you can easily confirm by removing the deck plate and > measuring). That leaves 2 options, the 9 foot cable length and the 27 foot > cable length. There is absolutely no way it is 27 ft. Verify the cable > diameter and you should be good with part number 774-2B2D9. > > https://edsonmarine.com/content/Edson_K37B%20%28Printable%29%20SMALL-Website-sm.pdf > > All the best, > Josh Muckley > S/V Sea Hawk > 1989 C 37± > Solomons, MD > > Oct 24, 2022 16:27:43 Mark Baldridge via CnC-List : > >> Hi, >> >> It's time to replace the steering cable on my C+ >> >> I called Edson and they do not have the specs for the 37+. They said to find >> the chain length and wire length and diameter in order to pick the right kit. >> >> I would like to have the new part in hand before I pull out the old one. >> Does anyone know the dimensions or correct kit to buy for my boat? >> >> Thanks, >> Mark Baldridge >> ~~~_/) >> '89 C 37+ #30 "The Edge" >> Surf City, NC
Stus-List Re: C 37+ Edson chain and wire spec
There aren't too many options. Measure the height of the pedestal, the length to the quadrant, and half the circumference of the quadrant, add them together and you should be close enough to eliminate all the other options. Its actually a shame cause Rob Ball worked there until he died recently. Looking on the website all the chain is the same size. I believe the cable is 1/4 inch (you can easily confirm by removing the deck plate and measuring). That leaves 2 options, the 9 foot cable length and the 27 foot cable length. There is absolutely no way it is 27 ft. Verify the cable diameter and you should be good with part number 774-2B2D9. https://edsonmarine.com/content/Edson_K37B%20%28Printable%29%20SMALL-Website-sm.pdf All the best, Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37± Solomons, MD Oct 24, 2022 16:27:43 Mark Baldridge via CnC-List : > Hi, > > It's time to replace the steering cable on my C+ > > I called Edson and they do not have the specs for the 37+. They said to find > the chain length and wire length and diameter in order to pick the right kit. > > I would like to have the new part in hand before I pull out the old one. Does > anyone know the dimensions or correct kit to buy for my boat? > > Thanks, > Mark Baldridge > ~~~_/) > '89 C 37+ #30 "The Edge" > Surf City, NC
Stus-List Re: Blocks under forward most keel bolt material?
Steven, To be honest, I've never looked closely at that area of my 35-1. If I'm seeing the photos correctly, the one pic with no bolt shown is the forward surface of the structure you're questioning. The picture was taken from near the mast looking aft? So that surface would be the aft "wall" of the bilge sump? If so, my best guess is that the structure is a couple pieces of white oak. I could easily be wrong. -- Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Mon, Oct 24, 2022 at 4:24 PM steven.hickel--- via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > I have a C 35 mk I. I don't know what what the blocks under the, at > least forward most, keel bolt are made of. It has a sort of wood grain, but > feel like rock. The fiberglass on the forward-most keel bolt has separated > on the starboard side. There's also a top at least mostly resin layer that > seems to be peeling away suddenly under that bolt and in other sections of > the bilge between bolts. I'm hoping that the blocks aren't wood inside of > resin that have rotted at the bottom and sunk down and caused the laminate > around the forward keel bolt to do the same. Can anyone shed any light > here? Seems best to post before drilling a hole in the bilge to probe the > material. Please see the linked photos > > > https://photos.app.goo.gl/fnTpJJrbdAQ8htiH8 > > Thank you so much for any help and for this forum > > > >
Stus-List Blocks under forward most keel bolt material?
I have a C 35 mk I. I don't know what what the blocks under the, at least forward most, keel bolt are made of. It has a sort of wood grain, but feel like rock. The fiberglass on the forward-most keel bolt has separated on the starboard side. There's also a top at least mostly resin layer that seems to be peeling away suddenly under that bolt and in other sections of the bilge between bolts. I'm hoping that the blocks aren't wood inside of resin that have rotted at the bottom and sunk down and caused the laminate around the forward keel bolt to do the same. Can anyone shed any light here? Seems best to post before drilling a hole in the bilge to probe the material. Please see the linked photos https://photos.app.goo.gl/fnTpJJrbdAQ8htiH8 Thank you so much for any help and for this forum
Stus-List C 37+ Edson chain and wire spec
Hi, It's time to replace the steering cable on my C+ I called Edson and they do not have the specs for the 37+. They said to find the chain length and wire length and diameter in order to pick the right kit. I would like to have the new part in hand before I pull out the old one. Does anyone know the dimensions or correct kit to buy for my boat? Thanks, Mark Baldridge ~~~_/) '89 C 37+ #30 "The Edge" Surf City, NC
Stus-List Persistence
Mike, I haven't seen your boat at the club in awhilewhere is it? Bob
Stus-List Re: 33-2 companionway hatch and turtle
Thanks Mike - I’m in the GTA actually but I had a place on the the south shore (my dad lives there) Plastics are within my workshop capability. Have the frames in the car and will visit a local metal finishing shop this week to see what they recommend, will post the info of course. Dave Sent from my iPhone > On Oct 24, 2022, at 8:30 AM, Hoyt, Mike wrote: > > > Hi Dave > > If I remember correctly you are located in Nova Scotia. Bailey’s Plastics in > East Lawrencetown, NS (the Lawrencetown past Cole Harbour not the one in the > Valley) made the companionway slider and hatch boards for Persistence. They > did this for four or five boats this season and also can manufacture > replacement windows. They do good work at a reasonable cost > > Hope this helps > > Mike Hoyt > Persistence > Halifax, NS > > From: Dave S via CnC-List > Sent: October 23, 2022 2:03 PM > To: C Stus List > Cc: Dave S > Subject: Stus-List 33-2 companionway hatch and turtle > > > Good day all. > I must be looking for things to do because I'm pondering how I might improve > the companionway hatch. The acrylic is crazed and requires replacement, and > I've also noticed some of the turtle (fiberglass cover/housing) screws had > loosened. > I've disassembled it, and documented it on the blog, follow the link below. > There's a bit of dirt under there but everything appears to be in good shape. > I've detected no issues however I do wonder if it ought to have drainage > holes other than into the cockpit. > It appears to have had some sealant (butyl?) installed between the turtle and > coachroof, however it was certainly not sealed. Perhaps it should not be > sealed to the cabin top at all? > Though there is no indication of water ingress, I will drill out, epoxy-fill, > and redrill the mounting holes. > The teak rails and stop block appear to be in excellent shape. > The exposed teak is in good shape however it is subject to weathering and is > not easy to remove for maintenance. > > Has anyone else gone down this rabbit hole, and if so what improvements are > worth making? > > Thanks, Dave > 33-2 Windstar > http://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/2022/10/companionway-hatch.html > > >
Stus-List Re: 33-2 companionway hatch and turtle
Hi Dave If I remember correctly you are located in Nova Scotia. Bailey’s Plastics in East Lawrencetown, NS (the Lawrencetown past Cole Harbour not the one in the Valley) made the companionway slider and hatch boards for Persistence. They did this for four or five boats this season and also can manufacture replacement windows. They do good work at a reasonable cost Hope this helps Mike Hoyt Persistence Halifax, NS From: Dave S via CnC-List Sent: October 23, 2022 2:03 PM To: C Stus List Cc: Dave S Subject: Stus-List 33-2 companionway hatch and turtle Good day all. I must be looking for things to do because I'm pondering how I might improve the companionway hatch. The acrylic is crazed and requires replacement, and I've also noticed some of the turtle (fiberglass cover/housing) screws had loosened. I've disassembled it, and documented it on the blog, follow the link below. * There's a bit of dirt under there but everything appears to be in good shape. * I've detected no issues however I do wonder if it ought to have drainage holes other than into the cockpit. * It appears to have had some sealant (butyl?) installed between the turtle and coachroof, however it was certainly not sealed. Perhaps it should not be sealed to the cabin top at all? * Though there is no indication of water ingress, I will drill out, epoxy-fill, and redrill the mounting holes. * The teak rails and stop block appear to be in excellent shape. * The exposed teak is in good shape however it is subject to weathering and is not easy to remove for maintenance. Has anyone else gone down this rabbit hole, and if so what improvements are worth making? Thanks, Dave 33-2 Windstar http://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/2022/10/companionway-hatch.html
Stus-List Re: 33-2 companionway hatch and turtle
The companionway on my Tartan is similar in the way the hatch slides into a hood. But mine is made of fiberglass. What I did add was an acrylic tape for the hatch to slide on. I'ts working great and holding up well after 2 seasons. I got it on Amazon and it was a recommendation from Tim Jacket over at Tartan. It appears to be out of stock on Amazon, unfortunately. But this is what I used. Maybe you could find some elsewhere. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N4EQ52P/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8=1 Danny -- Original Message -- From: Dave S via CnC-List To: C Stus List Cc: Dave S Subject: Stus-List 33-2 companionway hatch and turtle Date: Sun, 23 Oct 2022 13:03:02 -0400 Good day all.I must be looking for things to do because I'm pondering how I might improve the companionway hatch. The acrylic is crazed and requires replacement, and I've also noticed some of the turtle (fiberglass cover/housing) screws had loosened. I've disassembled it, and documented it on the blog, follow the link below.There's a bit of dirt under there but everything appears to be in good shape. I've detected no issues however I do wonder if it ought to have drainage holes other than into the cockpit. It appears to have had some sealant (butyl?) installed between the turtle and coachroof, however it was certainly not sealed. Perhaps it should not be sealed to the cabin top at all? Though there is no indication of water ingress, I will drill out, epoxy-fill, and redrill the mounting holes. The teak rails and stop block appear to be in excellent shape. The exposed teak is in good shape however it is subject to weathering and is not easy to remove for maintenance. Has anyone else gone down this rabbit hole, and if so what improvements are worth making? Thanks, Dave33-2 Windstarhttp://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/2022/10/companionway-hatch.html
