Stus-List Bent rudder
Folks, He who shall remain nameless managed to back down onto…. Anyway, the subject doesn’t bury the lead. She’s a 30’ mk1. I believe 1972, maybe 73. Hull number plate is missing and she’s pre cast-in-the-transom days. The rudder is a piece of plate with reinforcing “longitudinal” pieces welded on running at right angles to the rudder post and not even close to horizontally as one would expect. I shudder to think of the hydrodynamics…… Anyway, there’s a bend of about 35 degrees to stbd just parallel with a longitudinal. I have bolted together a structure made of 4x4s and threaded rod/washers/nuts that has pulled it just about straight. But how do I know if I have pulled it enough. I expect it will spring back but I have no idea how much overbend I need to put in so as to end up with an( even close to) straight rudder. That’s the major problem. The other is those reinforcing pieces and the complete lack of any foil esque) shape to to it. I have access to some black locust I could bolt on in vertical “planks” for lack of a better term, which would reinforce that straightening work I hopefully have close enough, and then I can fair them a little to give some shape. It would require cutting short those longitudinals and grooving the backs of the planks a bit but that’s doeable. I could through bolt them side to side as needed and voila, rudder fixed and faired. Coat planks in some sort of goop of course (open to suggestions). I’m trying to find pics on my phone but it doesn’t seem to be showing all my pics…. I’ll investigate. So, is there anything glaringly wrong with my plan? Intention would be to coat the planks in epoxy then bottom paint and bolt on new ones if (when) they need replacing. Also contemplating pulling her diesel and installing an electric motor. Anyone have experience there? Thanks for your ideas hivemind. Cheers Daniel CnC30 Santiago Sent from my iPhone Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Interior 'walls'
I have always known the “ceiling” in a boat to be the deckhead. The actual ceiling is the “planking” on the inside of the frames to give a nice smooth planked look on the inside as well as provide structural rigidity and longitudinal stiffness. And floors are below the cabin sole, which is what you walk on, compared to the floors which are a structural piece connecting the left and right frame halves at any given point and are fastened to the keel. Ain’t nautical speak grand? Sent from my iPhone > On Jan 31, 2021, at 14:24, Donald Kern via CnC-List > wrote: > > Being a graduate of Annapolis I was familiar/use the common nautical terms > of overhead, deck, bulkhead, ladder, lines, head (much to my wife's ridicule > at home). When working for Raytheon doing radar and collision avoidance > instructions, i did find an interesting anomaly aboard a 1000' Great Lake ore > carrier in the 80's. I do not know if the captain was pilling my leg, but he > referred to the above in common household terms; ie ceiling, floor, wall, > stairs etc. to the point that the placards on the "front wall" of the bridge > said "Left" and "Right" and spoke of the ships railings as "fences". His > explanation to a "Salty" was that his small crew came from Midwest and it was > easier to use terms they were familiar with, especially in an emergency or > drill. > > Don Kern > Fireball, C&C35 Mk2 > Bristol, RI > > > On 1/31/2021 12:38 PM, MICHAEL BRANNON via CnC-List wrote: >> Way back in NAVY bootcamp they taught us to call it the overhead. There >> are also decks and bulkheads. The USN spin on things. >> Mike Brannon >> Virginia Lee 93295 >> 1978 C&C 36 CB >> Virginia Beach, VA >> >> >> >> > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: Mainsail Gate
Make something out of plastic? Threaded stainless bolts tapped into the mast to hold it in place? Two rectangles with a couple of holes drilled through them. Tap the holes in the mast. Don’t forget to sink the heads. I suspect that would set you up. Sent from my iPhone > On Jan 29, 2021, at 21:34, Bob Mann wrote: > > > Depends on whether you want the slides/slugs to drop down past the opening or > not. My cover fits much nicer when the mainsail drops down another 4-6 > inches, so I have the gates on mine; I used to have the stop. > > I attempted to make my own using a flooring carpet strip. It worked for a > week or two but the material is too pliable. > > A lot depends on what your track opening looks like. > > I ended up going with the vastly over-priced MG-S2L from RigRIte: > https://www.rigrite.com/Spars/MetalMast_Spars/MetalMast_Mainsail_Gates.php > > Bob > >> On 01/29/2021 8:06 PM Daniel via CnC-List wrote: >> >> >> I was looking for something like that. Saw an idea for one on the c&c web >> page. Then I stopped into the Binnacle and saw a little fitting that screws >> into the groove/slot and simply blocks it off. Placed above the groove after >> feeding the slides in, keeps them from falling back down and out of the >> track. $13 here in Halifax. >> Daniel Willis >> Santiago >> 1973 C&C30-1 >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >>>> On Jan 29, 2021, at 20:04, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List >>>> wrote: >>>> >>> You might be well advised to make it yourself. In Canada, I couldn't find >>> one for any reasonable price. And when you try having it delivered from the >>> US, the shipping costs are ridiculous. >>> >>> Of course YMWV. >>> >>> Marek >>> 1994 C270 Legato >>> Ottawa, ON >>> >>> >>> Original message >>> From: Jean Forgues via CnC-List >>> Date: 2021-01-29 18:25 (GMT-05:00) >>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com >>> Cc: forgu...@videotron.ca >>> Subject: Stus-List Mainsail Gate >>> >>> Bonjour >>> >>> >>> >>> For my C&C27-5, I am looking for a mainsail gate that allows the sail >>> slides to slide past the gate entrance without falling out. The gate is >>> about 7cm long. Any idea where I can find that? >>> >>> >>> >>> Jean >>> >>> Chicoutimi, Canada >>> >>> >>> >>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with >>> the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use >>> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - >>> Stu >> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with >> the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use >> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: Mainsail Gate
I was looking for something like that. Saw an idea for one on the c&c web page. Then I stopped into the Binnacle and saw a little fitting that screws into the groove/slot and simply blocks it off. Placed above the groove after feeding the slides in, keeps them from falling back down and out of the track. $13 here in Halifax. Daniel Willis Santiago 1973 C&C30-1 Sent from my iPhone > On Jan 29, 2021, at 20:04, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List > wrote: > > You might be well advised to make it yourself. In Canada, I couldn't find > one for any reasonable price. And when you try having it delivered from the > US, the shipping costs are ridiculous. > > Of course YMWV. > > Marek > 1994 C270 Legato > Ottawa, ON > > > Original message > From: Jean Forgues via CnC-List > Date: 2021-01-29 18:25 (GMT-05:00) > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Cc: forgu...@videotron.ca > Subject: Stus-List Mainsail Gate > > Bonjour > > For my C&C27-5, I am looking for a mainsail gate that allows the sail slides > to slide past the gate entrance without falling out. The gate is about 7cm > long. Any idea where I can find that? > > Jean > Chicoutimi, Canada > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Re: Stus-List Removing a C&C 34 fuel tank
Our 30’ mk1 was repowered with diesel and the tank is translucent plastic at this point if that helps anyone with anything. Sent from my iPhone > On Sep 7, 2020, at 08:49, John and Maryann Read via CnC-List > wrote: > > > HI Don > > We replaced our tank with military grade aluminum custom made by Luther > Welding in Bristol RI. http://www.lutherswelding.com/Old one was original > to boat, was not leaking but did it due to its age (32 years) so it was only > a matter of time. Old tank came out of lazarette – very tight fit and > required some persuasion of the fill neck. I also could have removed the > teak trim from the lazarette and hollowed out a small portion of the glass to > fit the fill fitting if I was considering reusing it after inspection but I > wasn’t so did not. Also had to reposition Sendur tank and exhaust elbow and > throttle cable. Also replaced fill hose (very expensive). New one fit right > in as fill fitting is screwed in, not welded so total height was less. > Considered using a plastic tank but was strongly advised against due to fire > hazard. Very time consuming project and tight fit all around. > > > John and Maryann > Legacy III > 1982 C&C 34 > Noank, CT > > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and > every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List R: Cockpit plaque - C&C 30
Yeah. I looked pretty close. Not sure how much paint is there. She’s gel-coated and her colour is quite faded. Original maybe? Maybe not. Sent from my iPhone > On Aug 19, 2020, at 22:17, Donald Kern via CnC-List > wrote: > > Dan > > Have you look closely near the top, stb'd, outboard side of the transom. My > 1974 35 carries her HIN there, there was no plaque installed. The HIN was > mandated in 1972 so you should have it there unless the transom was damage or > you have many coats of paint that filled it in. HIN can be decoded as Aaron > described below and will start with either CCY or ZCC (C&C's manufacturer's > code). > > Don Kern > Fireball C&C35 Mk2 > Bristol RI > > > > On 8/17/2020 8:00 PM, Aaron Rouhi via CnC-List wrote: >> Dan, >> Your hull number is part of your HIN. Hull numbers used between October 31, >> 1972 and August 1, 1984 are formatted this way: >> >> HIN: >> ABC12345M79A >> >> ABC = Manufacturer's code >> 12 = Model >> 345 = Serial Number (Hull Number) >> M >> 79 = Year built >> A = Month: A= August B =September... >> >> Aaron R. >> Admiral Maggie, >> 1979 C&C 30 MK1 #540 >> Annapolis, MD >> >> >> From: Daniel >> Sent: Sunday, August 16, 2020 5:05 PM >> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com >> Cc: Aaron Rouhi >> Subject: Re: Stus-List R: Cockpit plaque - C&C 30 >> >> Where is that plaque? I can’t find mine. No idea what hull number she is. >> 1973 mk1. >> >> Sent from my iPhone >>> >> >> >> ___ >> >> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and >> every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use >> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and > every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Wincher's size for C&C 34
Interesting. My 30 mk1 has 26 mains and 22 abaft the mains interested what responses come back as I’ve considered some of those as well. Sent from my iPhone > On Aug 18, 2020, at 17:40, Dean McNeill via CnC-List > wrote: > > Just bought a C&C 34 with Barient #25 two speed winches, but not > self-tailing. Wondering if anyone knows the size I should order to add the > rubber “Winchers” to make them sort-of self-tailing? Or can someone measure > the barrel diameter of same winches if you have them…. My new boat is a 4 > hour drive away at the moment. > > Thanks! Dean ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List R: Cockpit plaque - C&C 30
Where is that plaque? I can’t find mine. No idea what hull number she is. 1973 mk1. Sent from my iPhone > On Aug 16, 2020, at 17:20, Aaron Rouhi via CnC-List > wrote: > > > Thank you Tom! > > Aaron > Admiral Maggie > 79 30-1 > Annapolis, MD > From: CnC-List on behalf of T Smyth via > CnC-List > Sent: Sunday, August 16, 2020 3:10 PM > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Cc: T Smyth > Subject: Stus-List R: Cockpit plaque - C&C 30 > > > Here is a link to an image of my plaque, C&C 30, 1974 (taken prior to a nice > re-painting of the cockpit!): > > https://photos.app.goo.gl/KdcehGGebkX1qkRr7 > > Tom > C&C 30, MK1 (1974) #286 -0574 > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and > every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Teak Maintanance
Could a card scrapper judiciously applied help in this situation? Sent from my iPhone > On Aug 11, 2020, at 07:10, Andrew Burton via CnC-List > wrote: > > > When I got my C&C 40 I used citrus strip to remove the varnish on my cabin > sole. I then lightly sanded them with 150 and then 180 grit paper and hit > them with a coat of Pettit Clear Sealer. I sanded that lightly with 150 grit > then started building up with Epiphanes Gloss Varnish. After three or four > coats I sanded pretty thoroughly to flatten the grain, then added another 4 > coats or so. It still looked very good when I sold the boat 5 years later. > Andy > > Andrew Burton > 26 Beacon Hill > Newport, RI > USA 02840 > http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ > > phone +401 965 5260 > > >> On Mon, Aug 10, 2020 at 4:37 PM Neil Andersen via CnC-List >> wrote: >> Bo, >> >> The discoloring is from water. Tone need to CAREFULLY get down through the >> varnish without messing with the holly sole. >> >> Neil Andersen >> Rock Hall, MD 21661 >> From: CnC-List on behalf of General Gao via >> CnC-List >> Sent: Monday, August 10, 2020 2:55 PM >> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com >> Cc: General Gao >> Subject: Stus-List Teak Maintanance >> >> Hi everyone, >> >> Just wondering about the my interior teak maintenance. The picture below >> shows what it looks like now. I tried to use paper towel, teak cleaner, teak >> oil, did not change a thing. Should I use scrubber or I am not on the right >> track? The yellow color seems to be from something that "grow" from the wood. >> >> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1L3b7cvaYxZN8wRMuZiEZhDCDYk5-Pihn/view?usp=sharing >> >> >> Thank you, >> >> Bo >> ___ >> >> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and >> every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use >> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and > every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Engine starting issue
Sometimes. Lucky you this time. Usually not though I think. :) Sent from my iPhone > On Aug 2, 2020, at 17:05, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List > wrote: > > My starter button was giving me problems. It turned out the the button > switch was loose. The rubber cap concealed that fact. I tighten the ring on > the Loose switch and it was fine. > > Sometime things are easier to fix than we expect... > > Tom Buscaglia > S/V Alera > 1990 C&C 37+/40 > Vashon WA > P 206.463.9200 > C 305.409.3660 > > >>> On Aug 2, 2020, at 9:00 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote: >>> >> Message: 3 >> Date: Sat, 1 Aug 2020 16:38:36 -0300 >> From: dwight veinot >> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com >> Subject: Re: Stus-List Engine starting issue >> Message-ID: >> >> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" >> >> Next easiest try. Replace the starter button switch >> >> On Sat, Aug 1, 2020 at 10:50 AM David Knecht via CnC-List < >> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and > every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List depth finder follow-up
Hi, the depth display is not readable on my 1980 cc 32. I asked listers and a number said, Listers said, what brand, what size, etc. Anyway, it is a Brooks and Gatehouse , squarish, measures 4 5/16 and 4 5/16. I called the repair facility and he said (and he's right) it is the cockpit display of the unit down below at the nav table. Yes, that is working below.. But the service tech said it would take about 2 hours, and around $250 to repair. Yikes. ! Any suggestions? Thanks in advance, Dan McElwreath Tively II, City Island, NY ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List depth finder display
The readout on my cockpit depth display on 1980 cnc 32 is barely readable in the daylight. I have been unable to find a source for simply replacing the displau unit. Can that be done? or do I have to buy a complete set, with transducer, etc. Thanks for any guidance. Dan Mc on Tively II at City Island ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List solution to shower drain
Saw a link to Edd Schillay's solution to shower pump failure. I could not open the link. I am on city island, at HYC on a 32 c&c. sorry, could not find an off list address. ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Prop size/pitch for a Yanmar 1GM10 in a 27 MkII
I have a 1980, 32' with a 2qm15 and the first year I had it, same thing happened. I spent hours trying to figure out what was wrong, and finally my son in law said lets dive the boat and look at the prop. If someone had told me that "stuff: on the prop could have made that much difference, I never would have believed it. Dan Mc From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Paul Baker via CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com] Sent: Friday, August 15, 2014 6:19 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Prop size/pitch for a Yanmar 1GM10 in a 27 MkII Hi Folks, Any 27MkII folks out there with a Yanmar 1GM10 diesel? What prop do you have on there, and is it able to achieve max rpm under load? I can't recall what I have (3 blade but don't know size/pitch) but at 2700rpm I am billowing black smoke and still only doing 5kts. Dirty bottom is going to contribute to this, plus some junk on the prop itself, but I wouldn't have thought it would be *that* big an effect. Cheers, Paul ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List remove head sink on c n c 32?
Before going in the water this Spring I replaced all the waste hose and ran thru the vanity in head. This week I had to rebuild the par shower drain pump so I had to remove that. My question: Can the head sink be removed to allow access? Working thru the small vanity door is an absolute BEAR. I have been reluctant to try and put the pump back, only because it is such a pain. I was even thinking of cutting the vanity wall out, including the little door, and then reglassing when finished. But I know what that would look like. Thanks for any advice. Dan Mc on Tively II in City Island, NY ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
