Re: Stus-List Thinking of a Wheel to Tiller Conversion

[David Platt via CnC-List]

Hi Rod
Mine came with emergency tiller that fit over the rudder post.  If you have one 
you might be able to sacrafice it to provide the tiller attachment.
Have to say though, that you are going to give up a lot of cockpit space given 
the location of the rudder post.
Cheers
davidC 32 Wanderer

  From: roderick anderson via CnC-List 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: roderick anderson 
 Sent: Thursday, November 10, 2016 6:18 PM
 Subject: Stus-List Thinking of a Wheel to Tiller Conversion
   
Hi everyone my name is Rod Anderson and this is my first post to the list. I 
hail from Shelter Island, NY where I have a small boat shop. I bought a 1980 
C 32 this year and coming from the Etchells world I'm uncomfortable with a 
wheel. I am thinking about changing the helm from the Edson setup it has now to 
a tiller which I believe was also available . My question is does anyone know 
where to source the tiller fitting or possibly find a used one. The tiller 
itself is not a problem as I can build one in the shop. Thanks!
Rod
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Re: Stus-List WInterizing 2GM20F

[David Platt via CnC-List]

Tim

I am curious about why you advocate taking the impeller out. Won't 
antifreeze drain out of your engine when you take the cover off the 
water pump?


Respectfully

david

C 32 Wanderer

On 2016-10-13 12:07 PM, Tim Sippel via CnC-List wrote:


In Water :

Change oil

Check Coolant / change if necessary

Out of water

Run anti-freeze though engine (capture and dispose of properly) I’m 
not brave enough to simply drain it !


Remove impeller and store with engine key

*Tim Sippel*

**

*C 33mk ii Matico*

**

**

**

**

**

**

**

**

*:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Dave 
S via CnC-List

*Sent:* Monday, October 10, 2016 8:36 PM
*To:* C Stus List 
*Cc:* Dave S 
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List WInterizing 2GM20F

Hi Doug,

Third GTA winter coming up and I have not yet run the red stuff 
through windstar's engine.  (IIRC the manual does not mention doing 
this)   What I have done is drain the water lock muffler and raw water 
strainer, remove the hoses to the water pump, then drain the block 
through the two valves on the engine block.  (access under the galley 
sink)  Blow any water out though the water pump hose.


Not sure whether that's optimal or not

Anyway, If I were to use the red stuff, (and I may) I would drain 
everything first so I could be sure that the antifreeze was not too 
diluted.


It really is a good time to look in on the water pump impeller..

I would also check the specific gravity of the coolant to ensure its 
freeze point is low enough.  You can get a tester at Crappy tire for 
this for less than $10.


Top up the batteries with distilled water.

Dave (we met on pier 7 - whitby)

Message: 2
Date: Mon, 10 Oct 2016 20:34:55 + (UTC)
From: >
To: C List >
Subject: Stus-List WInterizing 2GM20F
Message-ID: <1911996305.1436982.1476131695...@mail.yahoo.com 
>

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

It's my first year with the 2GM20F and it's almost time to winterize 
it. Is there anything I need to do other running anti freeze through 
the fresh water intake until it comes out the exhaust??

Cheers,Doug
Celtic Knot33-2
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Re: Stus-List kanzaki transmission

[David Platt via CnC-List]

I was told overfilling the Kansaki transmission was a bad thing by my 
mechanic this summer.



On 2016-10-07 06:43 PM, Nate Personal via CnC-List wrote:

For my kanzaki fill to line only, threaded all the way in

Nate

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 7, 2016, at 17:22, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List 
> wrote:


So I need to ask a rookie question – I’m replacing the tranny oil and 
the dipstick has one line on it.  Do I refill only up to that line?  
Can I go over?  Is the plug for the dipstick threaded all the way 
down for reading level?


I dug through the service manual and have found nothing on this.

Yanmar 3HMF with Kanzaki transmission

Thanks.

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Re: Stus-List Asymmetric spinnaker short handed. 33-2?

[David Platt via CnC-List]

If you are planning to gybe around the front of the boat the rule of 
thumb for sheet length is twice the boat length.  You can probably knock 
25% off that length with a single line sheet (both ends connected to the 
tack).  I pull the snuffer down to gybe mine so I get away with a much 
shorter sheet (although, to be fair, it was much longer until I caught 
it in the prop.)



Good Luck

david

C Wanderer

On 2016-09-11 07:53 AM, Syerdave--- via CnC-List wrote:

Great, thanks gentlemen - very helpful.

So, I would assume the tack downhaul block aft of the furler is 
attached to the two u-bolts on deck where, on Windstar, there are 
currently two snap shackles permanently mounted.  (Used for halyards, 
pre-Furler?). Basically at the top  of the chain plate.   The tack 
downhaul would, in practice fly between the Furler drum and pulpit, 
aft of the pulpit, harmlessly massaging the Furler drum.  I have one 
of those web-strap deals  that can slide up and down the furled Jenny. 
 Used on my spin halyard.


I have the foredeck padeye, fair leads and cam cleat on stbd side of 
cabin top.   Stock I believe.


The halyard.I can't think of any reason that I need three headsail 
halyards lead aft.  Can you guys think of any reason NOT to have one 
of the wing halyards permanently belayed at the mast, and the other 
run back to the cockpit?   This would allow for crewed/non crewed 
spinnaking, less cabin-top clutter.  (Anyone tamed that?)


Last question - by any chance, did you note the length/dia of the 
sheets?  The sail will probably be bagged for the winter, but at least 
I can get prepared!   (A-Spin is .75oz, 74.07 m sq., FYI.  Custom, not 
stock, so fitted to I 13.56m, j 3.98m.)


Thanks again!

Dave.


: Fri, 9 Sep 2016 21:57:22 -0400
From: Andrew Burton >

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Asymmetric spinnaker short handed. 33-2?
Message-ID: <2ffb2a24-86a2-4fe3-9eb0-25b2e0836...@gmail.com 
>

Content-Type: text/plain;charset=us-ascii

I take my tack to a block just aft of the furler. I also have a wide 
web that wraps around the furled headsail and keeps the tack near 
centerline. Ease the tack as you get further downwind.
Halyard definitely at the mast. Yes, use the outer halyards. On a 
three-halyard masthead only the "wings" can be used for the spinnaker, 
but all should work for the white sails.

Cheers
Andy

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett 
Newport, RI 
USA02840 

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260 




Date: Sat, 10 Sep 2016 11:10:55 -0300
From: >
To: >
Subject: Re: Stus-List Asymmetric spinnaker short handed. 33-2?
Message-ID: <7E6566F8DD764B869CF73E0B27AC5263@T60>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

I have the same tack setup on my 33ii as described by Andrew Burton; a 
block just aft of the furler led to a cam cleat on the stbd side of 
the cockpit.
My halyards are all led aft to the cabin top, PITA when raising the 
gennaner but I have a cleat on the side of the mast which I use to 
temporarily tie off the halyard. Make sure you drop the sock on the 
same side you raised it on or you may have an issue with a halyard wrap.


Mike Amirault
C  Lovely Cruise
SMSC
On Sep 9, 2016, at 18:06, Dave via CnC-List > wrote:


Just ordered my cruising chute from Rolly Tasker in Thailand and am 
looking forward to trying it out.. Probably next season.   Have flown 
my symmetrical a few times singlehanded.
Considering how to do this on Windstar and am curious about how 
others have addressed a few things:
-Halyard at cockpit.   In this case it might make sense to have 
halyard at mast - this way halyard, and spin-sock can be dealt with 
together.
-Halyard at masthead.  On the 33-2 there are three halyards 
available, all are in-masthead sheaves, parallel to each other .   I 
currently use the centre one for the Genoa, and any other halyard 
chafes its neighbour on one tack.
-Tack downhaul.   There isn't one forward of the furler drum.  The 
downhaul itself can be rigged using the spin-pole downhaul line, fair 
leads and cleats, but the fixed, forward tack is a problem to be 
resolved.

Many thanks for any guidance!
Dave - Windstar 33-2





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Re: Stus-List Dinghy towing length

[David Platt via CnC-List]

I tow mine on the front of the second stern wave.  It can surf down the 
front of the wave to reduce pull on the tow line but should not run up 
against your stern in following waves.  I do keep a small fender on the 
tow line about 4 feet in front of the dinghy and when I stop the dinghy 
usually stops at the fender/float.



david

C Wanderer

On 2016-08-10 12:16 PM, Bev Parslow via CnC-List wrote:
We have a hard shell dinghy. How long should the tow line be? We had 
one incident when it turned over.



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Re: Stus-List C 30 MK1 PHRF racing

[David Platt via CnC-List]

C 30 mark 1's will do relatively better when it is blowing. Don't miss 
the heavy air nights.  I never thought mine did that well when I 
pinched.  Best way to tell for sure to is look at your VMG with a GPS.


Good Luck

david

On 2016-07-15 09:13 AM, Steven Tattrie via CnC-List wrote:

Hi,

I have been PHRF racing at our local club, this is my first year with 
a C 30 MK1 (1979) is there a thread or anyone have comments on 
getting the best out of the boat, eg tight rigging, rake, sail 
selection, strength or weaknesses specific to the 30 to stay 
competitive? I have been sailing for a couple decades so not looking 
for general sailing tips. I want to know what is best for the 30MK1 or 
hear from your experience what work best.


I am pointing well, though wounder if I should pinch more or be more 
off the wind for speed? I seemed to be passed on reaching and running.


FYI - we have about half a dozen 30 MK1 racing a couple redwings, a 32 
and 35 MK1 racing. All C


Steve


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Re: Stus-List Adjustable backstay?

[David Platt via CnC-List]

Do you have a baby stay?

On 2016-06-02 09:48 AM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List wrote:


The Dutch guy on the Youtube video is full of crap.

It works the exact same way with the masthead rig.  Think about 
pulling the string back on a bow (Bow and arrows) it has the exact 
same effect. It moves the top down and back / bows the mast in middle 
(Your mast has flexibility built into it for that reason) thus 
flattening the main and tightening the forestay  / flattening the 
entry on the genoa as well.   When I crank on my back stay the mast 
head bends down / back about 6 inches, you can see it if you sight it 
as someone cranks on the backstay.



Francois Rivard
1990 34+  "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA




I'm new to sailing.  My C 30MkII has an adjustable back stay. 
 However, I

have watched a couple sailing videos and they say with a full rig vs.
fractional, it cannot be adjusted because the back and front stays are
attached at the top.
How do you adjust the mast rack/bend with a back stay if the fore stay is
attached at the same point?  Keeps answers simple for me...don't know all
the lingo yet.
Thanks.
Regards






















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Re: Stus-List head hoses

[David Platt via CnC-List]

The stuff you took out is probably exhaust hose.  C seemed to use it 
everywhere back in the day.  You local marine supply store can sell you 
an appropriate sanitary hose that will be mush easier to work with and 
that will be impermeable to odours - assuming you tighten the clamps 
properly.  Borrow a heat gun to make the stuff more pliable when required.


Cheers

david
C 32 Wanderer
Bonte ON

On 2016-04-11 12:47 PM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List wrote:
Recently I had to remove the discharge hose from the head to clear it 
out.  It had developed a crystalline growth that had clogged up with 
other stuff.   After I literally beat the crap out of it to clear it, 
I was unable to get it back up behind the toilet as it was to stiff 
and difficult to work back in place with the anti syphon valve. 
Disassembling it from the valve was not workable, as I could not reach 
it to reassemble.


I am looking for advise on another hose that is more plyable than the 
rubber and coiled wire hose that I took out.


Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland, Or


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Re: Stus-List Headsail sock

[David Platt via CnC-List]

I used to have one on another boat.  It had a line that tightened it up 
around the furled foresail from top to bottom.  No flogging whatsoever.  
If I was ordering a new headsail  I would order another cover with it.


Cheers

david
C 32 Wanderer
Burlington ON

On 2016-03-29 07:18 PM, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List wrote:
There is one on my pier on a J105. I have never seen or heard it flog 
even when howling. Some other boats roller furlers and in mast furlers 
at the club...well many of those flogged (but that was operator error)


On Mon, Mar 28, 2016 at 8:09 PM Chuck S via CnC-List 
> wrote:


Headsail Socks:
I own a sock for the headsails.  Bought it used for $100 from a
local sailmaker.   You can raise it and protect any headsail from
UVs.  If it's windy, you can wrap your spin halyards around it
loosely to stop the floppy parts from making flag noises.

The ATN brand sock has a pullstring system that might work
better.  I saw a North product that had a similar X drawstring
design.

With a helper, I could drop the headsail, flake it on deck, and
bag it and store it below, but the sail takes up a lot of room
inside.  And the reason I added the furler was to keep the sail
out of the cabin.  I eventually gave in and paid $800 and had the
UV protection added to my 144% genoa and that's what I use to race
and daysail, shorthanded.

Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md


*From: *"William Walker via CnC-List" >
*To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
*Cc: *wwadjo...@aol.com 
*Sent: *Monday, March 28, 2016 6:49:11 PM
*Subject: *Re: Stus-List Rolly Tasker Sails now sun cover

Have you been in a marina with one of the sleeves on the boat next
door in 20 knows of wind?  I have.  Think flag.
Bill Walker
CnC  36

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail




On Monday, March 28, 2016 Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List
> wrote:

Just to make it a little more interesting..

With my (new to me) racing headsails This what I'm going with:

http://www.atninc.com/atn-genoa-sleeve-sailing-equipment.shtml

With the Genoa Sleeve way you have complete protection from sun /
rain / pollen / whatever for no matter what sail happens to to be
on the furler. ATN's sleeve is a bit pricey but it seems to be the
way to go.

Added weight to the sail(s) = 0

it's a little more hassle to hoist but this way I feel the sails
are better protected and I don't have to do anything to the sails.


-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier,  GA




John ? that was my thinking, too; and the sail is only on the
fuller for about five months a year up here.

Decisions, decisions?

? Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^(

> On Mar 27, 2016, at 10:54 AM, John Pennie via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Pretty much mirrors everything I?ve heard on the subject.  With
that said, I went with Dacron.  It is noticeable in light air.
>
> John
>
>> On Mar 27, 2016, at 11:45 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List

<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> wrote:
>>
>> I had a preliminary conversation with my local sailmaker about
a new suit of sails for Imzadi. He was also very down on using a
Dacron sun cover for the headsail. His opinion was that they are
typically good for 5-6 years or less, and better suited to use on
sails used for club racing and not left for long term on the
furler. He said Sunberlla is heavier, stiffer, and more expensive
(which increases initial cost of the sail and slightly decreases
performance), but very much more durable (and a better value in
the long run if you are a cruiser).
>>
>> Rick Brass
>> Washington, N
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Re: Stus-List CC 30 one design

[David Platt via CnC-List]

saw it at the Toronto boat show yesterday.  Doesn't look much like my
old Mark 1.

david


On Sun, 2015-01-18 at 19:05 -0500, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List wrote:
 Funny.  I posted this on the list in Oct  2013 when the first drawings
 of the Redline were released. 
 
 
 SR was purchased by CC from Glen Henderson.  A drawing of the first
 boat to be produced by the new Cc company was shown at the Newport
 Boat show.  It's the Redline 41 similar to a King 40 by Summit
 yachts.  You can see a drawing of it at http://summit-yachts.com/.
 The new line is described below 
 
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 
 On Jan 18, 2015, at 6:11 PM, Brent Driedger via CnC-List
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 
  This from Sailing World: the CC Redline 41 is deemed an updated
  King 40. BOTY rules require original tooling, so the 41,although
  well built, is excused.
  Based on the CC website I was lead to believe this was a new hull.
  
  
  Brent
  27-5
  Lake Winnipeg 
  
  Sent from my iPhone
  
  On Jan 18, 2015, at 3:53 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List
  cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
  
  
   Redline was a huge disappointment. They should take a chainsaw to
   the interior and the price tag. 
   
   
   Joel
   
   On Sunday, January 18, 2015, Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List
   cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
   CC 30 OD
   
   
   I just shipped 3 of these boats (hull nos: 05, 06  08) to
   USWatercraft's Japanese dealer. All 3 boats were pre sold.
   The dealer has 3 more hulls on order for delivery by the
   end of May 2015.
   
   
   There is also a lot of interest from Australia we well.
   
   
   Jack Fitzgerald
   HONEY
   US12788
   CC 39 TM
   
   
   
   
   On Sun, Jan 18, 2015 at 1:22 PM, Tom Buscaglia via
   CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
   Looking forward to finally seeing one at the
   Seattle Boat Show next week.  Hoping they'll have
   the a Redline 41 though I doubt it.
   
   Oh yeah...go Hawks!
   
   Tom Buscaglia
   S/V Alera
   1990 CC 37+/40
   Vashon WA
   P 206.463.9200
   
   
On Jan 18, 2015, at 9:00 AM,
   cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
   
Message: 2
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2015 20:15:30 -0500
From: Jerome Tauber jrtau...@aol.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
   cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List CC30 one design at Key West
   
There will be a CC 30 one design competing in
   Key West Race Week starting tomorrow.  Jerry cC
   27 v JJ
Sent from my iPhone
   
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Re: Stus-List Custom CC Race boats (was - boat terms)

[David Platt via CnC-List]

Smoke is now sailing out of Bronte Harbour Yacht Club in Oakville Ontartio.  
Her current owner has her in nice shape and she had a decent season club 
racing.   Ron Barr, who I believe skippered Smoke during her first year is also 
a member at BHYC.
david
   From: Brent Driedger via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 To: Dennis C. capt...@gmail.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 Sent: Monday, November 10, 2014 10:35 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Custom CC Race boats (was - boat terms)
   
I love hearing about a boat who's name is well known and never changed through 
different owners.  In the 27-5 there is Smoke, the prototype mark 5 which was 
sailed very hard for its first season to see what kind of performance they 
could squeeze out of the design. She's rumoured to be the fastest hull of the 
mark 5's. I was very happy to hear she kept her name when she changed hands a 
few years ago. Cool history 
Brent27-5Lake Winnipeg. 

Sent from my iPhone


On Nov 10, 2014, at 9:17 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:


Thanks, Ed

Always nice to add another tidbit to Touche's history.  One of the joys of 
owning a piece of local sailing history.

Last chatted with Gene Walet years ago at a regatta in Biloxi.  Fine Southern 
gentleman.  He remembered selling Touche' to AJ Skip Carpenter in 1971.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Mon, Nov 10, 2014 at 7:23 PM, Edward Levert via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

In the mid 1970's TRUE NORTH came south to Lake Pontchartrain. She was a custom 
CC 37 designed and built to defend the Canada's Cup. Flush deck with ant 
hills, sockets moulded into the deck to accept winch handles. The ant hills 
were cross linked so that the leeward winch could be ground from the windward 
side. She was brought to the lake by Gene Walet, a former Olympic sailor and 
then the local CC dealer to provide competition to Corrie, CC 39 hull # 2 or 
3 and Touché. Gene added rather crude extensions to the aft curvature of the 
hull extending past the reverse transom for some undiscernabe rating or 
performance benefit. A recent Google search pulled up a report of TN having 
done well in the Trans Superior race a few years ago. It would be nice to hear 
about her current status. Gene replaced TN with White Pony, one of the early 
CC 38's, which was never competitive with the CC 39.
EdCC 34 Briar PatchNew Orleans 

On Monday, November 10, 2014, Rick Taillieu via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

While we’re on the subject of custom CC race boats does anyone know anything 
about this one?It looks like a 38 MK I or II hull with a mostly flush deck and 
racing cabin layout.At first I thought it might be the One Tonner but the deck 
layout in the pictures is quite different than in the magazine ad that I have a 
scan 
of.http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1975/C%26C-38-2744779/Canada#.VGEhiclMpD4  
Rick TaillieuNemesis'75 CC 25  #371Shearwater Yacht ClubHalifax, NS.   From: 
CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Burt Stratton via 
CnC-List
Sent: November-10-14 15:12
To: 'Martin DeYoung'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com; 'jtsails'
Subject: Re: Stus-List boat terms Somehow I knew this was an easy one for all 
you listers. Thanks so much. My next stop is IOR ton rating. Had no clue… I 
wonder now how many and for how long CC made these custom class-racers.   
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Martin 
DeYoung via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, November 10, 2014 1:55 PM
To: jtsails; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List boat terms Burt, James’ answer leading you to search 
using “IOR ton rating is good advice.  In short, the term “ton” was based on an 
IOR rating band that allowed IOR boats to race “one design”.  IIRC the popular 
“ton” classes were: ¼. ½, ¾, 1, and 2. Sailing Anarchy has had several recent 
topics that cover IOR and “Ton” racing well. Calypso would have rated as a 2 
tonner. A J-24 sized boat would be close to a ¼ tonner.  Today there is a 
resurgence of ton class racing with ¼ and ½ ton regattas being well attended.  
Boats that had been neglected for years are being resurrected, modernized and 
raced hard. Back in the heyday of IOR racing I had the opportunities to race 
extensively on ¾, 1, and 2 ton class boats.  The racing was tight and fun.  We 
used bloopers.  In the PNW town of Bellingham a regatta called PITCH (Pacific 
International Ton Championship) was started in the early 80’s.  The racing was 
as intense as the partying. Protest meeting often went past dinner time. 
MartinCalypso1971 CC 43Seattle

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Email 

Re: Stus-List LED replacement bulbs

[David Platt via CnC-List]

Three responses all for the same place.  Marinebeam it is.  The web site looks 
great and explains much  that some of the others do not.  Thanks guys
  From: Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List cnc-.  The web site l...@cnc-list.com
 To: Josh Muckley muckl...@gmail.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 Sent: Sunday, November 9, 2014 7:53 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List LED replacement bulbs
   
+2 marinebeam.com

On Sun, Nov 9, 2014, 12:59 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:

+1 marinebeam.comOn Nov 9, 2014 3:06 PM, D. J. Platt via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:



I have a 1982 CC 32 and would like to replace the lights with LED bulbs. I 
have replaced the complete fixture in the head, because the switch was broken, 
at a cost of about $40.00. I see no need to replace all the other fixtures if I 
can find replacement bulbs that fits an existing fixture.   Has any one done 
this and, if so, where did you source your bulbs?  Does anyone know how much 
power the flourescent fixtures draw?  I have ben wondering if LED strips can be 
used to replace them. Thanks david

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