Re: Stus-List Sen-Dure heat exchanger
Thanks Rick. I'm unable to connect to www.heatexchandeshop.com. And thank you in advance, David. Derek Kennedy SV Tortuga, 1979 C 30 mk1 Ballantyne's Cove, NS ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List C 37+ / Starboard Tack / Head
"Has anyone come up with a simple solution for this?" Is anyone else tempted to say Suck it Edd!? ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Mast light
The winter before last a tree fell onto our mast stand. Luckily only the quick-fit base for our masthead tri-light was damaged. Aqua Signal wanted so much for a replacement base that I decided to just replace the whole thing with the LED version. So far the light has performed well. It's much brighter and seems more secure. The old masthead light included a strobe. It always seemed too high for the base. Derek Kennedy SV Tortuga, 1979 C mk1 Ballantyne's Cove, NS. ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Binnacle mounted Ritchie Globe navigator compass
Captain Andrew J. Rae and Sons in Halifax just rebuilt my Ritchie Globemaster. They replaced the dome, the 12V light assembly, O-ring, clamping ring, base assembly and fluid. I picked it up this afternoon and I'm very pleased with it. I asked if they are able to source parts in Canada. They said no, they have to order from the USA. Derek Kennedy C mk1, Tortuga Ballantyne's Cove, NS ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Garhauer traveler
Hi Gary I just read your reply to Chris. I too have a 30-1, with the original traveller. One of its stops is jammed and must be released with pliers. I'm looking to replace it and have looked at the Garhauer catalog. What do you recommend? Thanks Derek C 30 mk1 #553, Tortuga Ballantynes Cove, NS > Look at the selection from Garhauer. Great stuff at an attractive price. > > Gary > > 30-1 with a boatload of their stuff > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List recommendations for a small bilge pump
Hi Mike. On your recommendation I tried to chase down a dealer for Water Witch. Stright-MacKay said they don't sell the product, although they're listed on the waterwitchinc web site. The web site recommends ordering from a Canadian dealer to save on shipping fees, etc. I emailed the company asking for an east-coast Canadian dealer and was referred to Western Marine, in Vancouver; not really east coast. I was in Halifax over the weekend, picking up an order at The Binnacle. I asked Lyle Dobbin if he knew of the product. Within 2 hrs he texted me to say he could get me a Model 101. He suggested that I act quickly and hope his dealer had stock to avoid the new import duties. I'll have to wait a bit for delivery, but I'm really happy with the service. Thanks to you and to Lyle. Derek Kennedy C #553 "Tortuga" Ballantyne's Cove, NS On Thu, Jun 21, 2018 at 2:50 PM, Hoyt, Mike wrote: > Hi Derek > > > > I believe we have the Model 101 series switch mated to a PAR 36680-2000 > diaphragm pump.The switch we have can be seen at this link > https://waterwitchinc.com/bilge-switches/ > > > > I cannot remember where I purchased it but I see that Water Witch sells > on-line. > > > > One of the great things about this switch compared to a float switch is > the ease of mounting. I zip tied it to a keel bolt and was done in less > than 5 minutes. Now that I think about it am wondering if that may > eventually cause problems with wiring and metal touching the keel bolt > though … > > > > The diaphragm pump is located in the galley under the sink and allows the > pickup to be less than 1cm from the bottom of bilge. With the water witch > switch located low in bilge also and the fact that the switch runs for a > few seconds after water level below its contact area the bilge is pretty > dry. > > > > The main downside of the diaphragm pump is the flow rate which is much > less than other types of bilge pumps. > > > > I think all of this was discussed a few years ago on this list. That is > where I found out about this switch. > > > > Mike > > Persistence > > Halifax, NS > > > > *From:* Tortuga [mailto:tortugas...@gmail.com] > *Sent:* Thursday, June 21, 2018 2:35 PM > *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com; Hoyt, Mike > *Subject:* Re: recommendations for a small bilge pump > > > > Hi Mike > > Can you elaborate on which Witch you have? I haven't heard of them before > but they sound super. The web site shows Stright MacKay as a dealer, but I > can't find one in the new catalog. > > > > Also will you name your pump? Thanks > > > > > Derek Kennedy > > C #553 "Tortuga" > > Ballantyne's Cove, NS > > > -- Derek Kennedy Cel: (902)863-7628 Home: (902)863-9219 ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Radar Reflector
Last season, I managed to snag the main halyard on my radar reflector (tube type) without noticing while I was attaching it to the main in a brisk wind. When I raised the sail, the halyard sliced through all the cable ties attaching the reflector to the shroud. The reflector clung to the halyard and I lowered the sail to retrieve it. About 10 feet above the deck, the halyard released the reflector, which conked my wife on the head as she was waiting to catch it. It took a few minutes to ascertain whether she had been badly injured; not, but she had a goose egg. The reflector bounced into the water. I swam to retrieve it, still bobbing around not far from the boat. -- Derek Kennedy SV Tortuga C mk1 Ballantynes Cove, NS ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Preventer or boom brake for C/1
I have been using the main sheet eye as attachment for my temporary preventers, but the angle to the toe rail is far from 90 degrees. If I can find a way to create a new, strong attachment point aft of the vang attachment eye, then I think I'll get a better angle. In a Nov-Dec 1998 article in Good Old Boat, Jerry Powlas describes a rig on his 30, which is basically 2 vangs. One attaches to the port toe rail and the other to the starboard. The vang line is one piece which runs back to the cockpit, along the transom and back on the opposite side. He can tension it to either side and cleat it. On Sat, Jul 15, 2017 at 10:56 AM, Neil Andersen < neil.eric.ander...@gmail.com> wrote: > Not sure I follow. Considering that the toe rail as holes from bow to > stern, I can get a perpendicular angle in both dimensions and in a shorter > distance than at the end of the boom. > > We typically don't use a preventer un less we are in a broad reach or run > with the boom out a good way. > > Neil > C 32 > > Neil Andersen > 20691 Jamieson Rd > Rock Hall, MD 21661 > -- > *From:* Gary Smith> *Sent:* Saturday, July 15, 2017 4:29:44 AM > *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com > *Cc:* Neil Andersen; Tortuga > *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Preventer or boom brake for C/1 > > There are some who advocate against using the vang attachment point and if > you think about it, it makes sense. > > The vang is too close to the mast so all of the force on the sail will > result in huge leverage forces. I've heard of broken booms as a result. > > The ideal is to use the main sheet eye so long as you can get enough of an > angle on the preventer line - as close as perpendicular to the boom as > possible. > > On 15 Jul 2017 4:21 am, "Neil Andersen via CnC-List" < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> I assume you have a hard vang? We have one made of line an use it as >> the preventer. We un clear it from the base of the mast and run it over to >> the toe rail. >> >> Neil C 32 >> >> Neil Andersen, M.Sc., CISSP, CISM >> Auburn, NY 13021 >> -- >> *From:* CnC-List on behalf of Tortuga >> via CnC-List >> *Sent:* Friday, July 14, 2017 8:58:17 PM >> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com >> *Cc:* Tortuga >> *Subject:* Stus-List Preventer or boom brake for C/1 >> >> I'm looking for advice please. I've been thinking for a while about >> installing permanent preventers or a boom brake on my 30. In the meantime I >> attach a preventer, when I think it's required, to either the mainsheet eye >> or to the vang attachment. >> >> This week, as I was moving the preventer, we were overtaken by a rain >> squall which resulted in a nasty gybe. Nobody was injured, but it scared me >> into rethinking my preventer. >> >> Our boom has 2 eyes: one at the end, where the mainsheet attaches and the >> other about a third of the length from the mast, where the vang attaches. >> I'd like to make a third attachment for a preventer or boom brake about >> half way along the boom, but I don't know how to do it. A bale, I think, >> will not withstand the lateral strain of a gybe. A friend recommended a >> T-ball fitting, but it also is made to withstand strain from one direction >> only, I think. >> >> Can anyone recommend a fitting that will attach to the boom and withstand >> the strain of a forced gybe? Also is there collected wisdom about >> preventers vs boom brakes, etc.? >> >> Thanks >> Derek >> Tortuga, C 30 mk1 #553 >> Ballantynes Cove, NS >> >> ___ >> >> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you >> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: >> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> >> All Contributions are greatly appreciated! >> >> -- Derek Kennedy Cel: (902)863-7628 Home: (902)863-9219 ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Preventer or boom brake for C/1
No, I have a "rope" vang. Your idea is a good one, but I would like to have permanent preventers running to both sides and adjustable from the cockpit. On Fri, Jul 14, 2017 at 11:20 PM, Neil Andersen < neil.eric.ander...@gmail.com> wrote: > I assume you have a hard vang? We have one made of line an use it as the > preventer. We un clear it from the base of the mast and run it over to the > toe rail. > > Neil C 32 > > Neil Andersen, M.Sc., CISSP, CISM > Auburn, NY 13021 > -- > *From:* CnC-Liston behalf of Tortuga via > CnC-List > *Sent:* Friday, July 14, 2017 8:58:17 PM > *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com > *Cc:* Tortuga > *Subject:* Stus-List Preventer or boom brake for C/1 > > I'm looking for advice please. I've been thinking for a while about > installing permanent preventers or a boom brake on my 30. In the meantime I > attach a preventer, when I think it's required, to either the mainsheet eye > or to the vang attachment. > > This week, as I was moving the preventer, we were overtaken by a rain > squall which resulted in a nasty gybe. Nobody was injured, but it scared me > into rethinking my preventer. > > Our boom has 2 eyes: one at the end, where the mainsheet attaches and the > other about a third of the length from the mast, where the vang attaches. > I'd like to make a third attachment for a preventer or boom brake about > half way along the boom, but I don't know how to do it. A bale, I think, > will not withstand the lateral strain of a gybe. A friend recommended a > T-ball fitting, but it also is made to withstand strain from one direction > only, I think. > > Can anyone recommend a fitting that will attach to the boom and withstand > the strain of a forced gybe? Also is there collected wisdom about > preventers vs boom brakes, etc.? > > Thanks > Derek > Tortuga, C 30 mk1 #553 > Ballantynes Cove, NS > ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Starting problems
Thanks to everyone who offered advice and expertise re my starting problem. It turned out to be a loose ground wire at the engine. I needn't have installed a new ignition switch, but now I have a spare. And I've learned a couple of valuable lessons. Lesson number one is: Ask first. Temperature for tomorrow is predicted to be mid-20s here. That's about 300 Kelvin, I think. A good day to slalom among the lobster buoys in St George's Bay. -- Derek Kennedy Tortuga, CC30 mk1 Ballantyne's Cove, NS ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 110, Issue 52
Thanks for this Dennis On Sat, Mar 14, 2015 at 8:08 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote: Go to Settings. You will land on the General settings page. Look near the top for the link called Labs and click it. Scroll down the Available Labs until you see Quote Selected Text. Select the Enabled box. Scroll to the bottom and click Save Changes. -- Derek Kennedy Cel: (902)863-7628 Home: (902)863-9219 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com