Re: Stus-List C Nameplate

[Gary W. Russell via CnC-List]

Chuck,
 Does your nameplate have an "R" on it?  I can't see any evidence that mine 
had a "+" on it.  I will check the dimensions on the sword.

Thanks,
Gary

Sent from my iPhone. ~~~_/)~~~

> On Jan 6, 2016, at 12:01 AM, Chuck S via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Nice image.  Since you asked, the sword could be longer, and a + should be 
> added
> 
> 
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
> 
> From: "Gary Russell via CnC-List" 
> To: "C List" 
> Cc: "Gary Russell" 
> Sent: Tuesday, January 5, 2016 4:50:20 PM
> Subject: Re: Stus-List C Nameplate
> 
> I have created a CAD file of the starboard side nameplate.  I welcome your 
> opinions and criticism.  You may see it here:
> 
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwQRSP2fYIFmR3dFbllPdXZ6aHc/view?usp=sharing
> 
> It's only the starboard side (so far), but all the symbols and characters are 
> individual components, so they can easily be re-arranged.  I need to check a 
> few dimension on the boat before I send it out for fabrication, but it was 
> just too cold here today to bother.
> 
> Gary
> S/V High Maintenance
> '90 C 37 Plus
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
> 
> ~~~_/)~~
> 
> 
>> On Mon, Jan 4, 2016 at 2:59 PM, Gary Russell  wrote:
>> Hi Josh,
>>  The dimensions I have are 21-3/16"L x 2"H x 1/4"T.  If using acrylic, I 
>> would definitely recommend VHB tape.  It is terrific stuff for acrylic and 
>> gelcoat.
>> 
>> Gary
>> 
>> ~~~_/)~~
>> 
>> 
>>> On Mon, Jan 4, 2016 at 11:58 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> I may have missed the message or dropped the ball last year.  Sorry folks.
>>> 
>>> The one on Ken's boat is aftermarket and is held on with 2 screws, one at 
>>> each end.  The way I imagined one being made and installed was that the 
>>> original plaque would be ground flush and the new metal plate fitted over 
>>> top.  For attachment I felt like welded on studs (in place of screws) that 
>>> went through the hull/deck was most favorable.  I don't know any of the 
>>> engineering hurdles.  To be honest, an automotive body shop would just use 
>>> 3M VHB tape.
>>> 
>>> The pictures should be sufficient to create a scale model.  The height is 
>>> roughly 2.5 inches.  I'll try to get real measurements asap so that the 
>>> scale can be applied to achieve the correct finished size.
>>> 
>>> https://drive.google.com/folder/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yUklxR0VXQUd0WjA/edit
>>> 
>>> Josh
>>> 
 On Jan 4, 2016 11:24 AM, "david via CnC-List"  
 wrote:
 This topic came up last year and I will put forward the same offer.
  
 I own / work at a shop that has CNC machining capability and 3D solid 
 modeling expertise. We work with solid models every day. My engineer is 
 also an enthusiast of 3D printing and last year bought his own printer, 
 although I am not sure of the size of it. It is able to print to different 
 grades and / or quality of acrylic.
  
 I would like to offer to produce a solid model at the least. The beauty of 
 a model is you can see what it looks like prior to building anything. 
 There are lots of manufacturing or production techniques that can be used 
 to make these depending on the material one wants to use. From what I 
 recall the ones with the raised letter (maybe acrylic) were also 
 "recessed" into the cabin. I think the ones on Ken's boat are proud of the 
 surface and maybe were never recessed or this was filled up.
  
 I believe where it left off last time was someone was going to make a 
 sketch or more specifically a "rubbing" of the outline so we had at least 
 the outer dimensions and scale of the logo and star.
  
 David Donnelly
 C 26 Mistress
 On January 3, 2016 at 10:36 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
  wrote:
 
 Yeah Gary,
 
 The old looking pictures are my boat.  The new ones are Ken Heaton's.  
 This subject has come up at least twice since I've been a member of the 
 list.  This makes the third.  Everyone is pretty convinced that Ken has 
 the best nameplate.  All of the 37+'ers seem up for a bulk order of 
 nameplates.  If you figure out a solution let us know.
 
 Josh Muckley
 S/V Sea Hawk
 1989 C 37+
 Solomons, MD
 
  
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
 bottom of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Email address:
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
>>> bottom of page at:
>>> 

Re: Stus-List C Nameplate

[Gary W. Russell via CnC-List]

I might add the acrylic plates will be more durable than the original because 
the letter are integral rather than glued on.  The UV resistance might be a 
little better after 25 years, as well.  I'm sure there will be a significant 
cost difference vs.  stainless steel.

Gary

Sent from my iPhone. ~~~_/)~~~

> On Jan 5, 2016, at 5:45 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Looks awesome! 
> 
> It is completely authentic to the original.  Very well done.  I agree that 
> either a "+"  or an "R" or "XL" or "37/40" would be nice options and 
> appropriate.
> 
> I am apprehensive about the durability of plastic and I personally will 
> continue to pursue a polished metal plaque.  I had imagined something similar 
> to Ken's but as I'm writing this I re-imagined something laser etched.  This 
> is a phenomenal start towards either of those goals.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>> On Jan 5, 2016 5:14 PM, "Bill Coleman via CnC-List"  
>> wrote:
>> Beautiful !  You may have a future there - !
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Seems like you should have the + on there, as the 37 is a completely 
>> different boat.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Regards,
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Bill Coleman
>> 
>> C 39 Erie PA
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary 
>> Russell via CnC-List
>> Sent: Tuesday, January 05, 2016 4:50 PM
>> To: C List
>> Cc: Gary Russell
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List C Nameplate
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> I have created a CAD file of the starboard side nameplate.  I welcome your 
>> opinions and criticism.  You may see it here:
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwQRSP2fYIFmR3dFbllPdXZ6aHc/view?usp=sharing
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> It's only the starboard side (so far), but all the symbols and characters 
>> are individual components, so they can easily be re-arranged.  I need to 
>> check a few dimension on the boat before I send it out for fabrication, but 
>> it was just too cold here today to bother.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Gary
>> 
>> S/V High Maintenance
>> 
>> '90 C 37 Plus
>> 
>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ~~~_/)~~
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> On Mon, Jan 4, 2016 at 2:59 PM, Gary Russell  wrote:
>> 
>> Hi Josh,
>> 
>>  The dimensions I have are 21-3/16"L x 2"H x 1/4"T.  If using acrylic, I 
>> would definitely recommend VHB tape.  It is terrific stuff for acrylic and 
>> gelcoat.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Gary
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ~~~_/)~~
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> On Mon, Jan 4, 2016 at 11:58 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> I may have missed the message or dropped the ball last year.  Sorry folks.
>> 
>> The one on Ken's boat is aftermarket and is held on with 2 screws, one at 
>> each end.  The way I imagined one being made and installed was that the 
>> original plaque would be ground flush and the new metal plate fitted over 
>> top.  For attachment I felt like welded on studs (in place of screws) that 
>> went through the hull/deck was most favorable.  I don't know any of the 
>> engineering hurdles.  To be honest, an automotive body shop would just use 
>> 3M VHB tape.
>> 
>> The pictures should be sufficient to create a scale model.  The height is 
>> roughly 2.5 inches.  I'll try to get real measurements asap so that the 
>> scale can be applied to achieve the correct finished size.
>> 
>> https://drive.google.com/folder/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yUklxR0VXQUd0WjA/edit
>> 
>> Josh
>> 
>> On Jan 4, 2016 11:24 AM, "david via CnC-List"  wrote:
>> 
>> This topic came up last year and I will put forward the same offer.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> I own / work at a shop that has CNC machining capability and 3D solid 
>> modeling expertise. We work with solid models every day. My engineer is also 
>> an enthusiast of 3D printing and last year bought his own printer, although 
>> I am not sure of the size of it. It is able to print to different grades and 
>> / or quality of acrylic.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> I would like to offer to produce a solid model at the least. The beauty of a 
>> model is you can see what it looks like prior to building anything. There 
>> are lots of manufacturing or production techniques that can be used to make 
>> these depending on the material one wants to use. From what I recall the 
>> ones with the raised letter (maybe acrylic) were also "recessed" into the 
>> cabin. I think the ones on Ken's boat are proud of the surface and maybe 
>> were never recessed or this was filled up.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> I believe where it left off last time was someone was going to make a sketch 
>> or more specifically a "rubbing" of the outline so we had at least the outer 
>> dimensions and scale of the logo and star.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> David Donnelly
>> 
>> C 26 Mistress
>> 
>> On January 3, 2016 at 10:36 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Yeah Gary,
>> 
>> The old looking pictures are my boat.  The new ones are Ken Heaton's. 

Re: Stus-List C Nameplate

[Gary W. Russell via CnC-List]

I will be talking to my machine shop friend this weekend about a quote to use 
the same 3D model to machine the nameplates out of stainless steel.  I haven't 
ruled out the idea of adding the "+", "Plus" or "/40 to the nameplates.  The 
way the model is built, adding or changing text is pretty straight forward.  
For that matter, if there are other C models with a similar nameplate, I 
could probably accommodate those as well.

Gary
S/V High Maintenance
'90 C 37 " "
East Greenwich, RI, USA

Sent from my iPhone. ~~~_/)~~~

> On Jan 5, 2016, at 5:45 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Looks awesome! 
> 
> It is completely authentic to the original.  Very well done.  I agree that 
> either a "+"  or an "R" or "XL" or "37/40" would be nice options and 
> appropriate.
> 
> I am apprehensive about the durability of plastic and I personally will 
> continue to pursue a polished metal plaque.  I had imagined something similar 
> to Ken's but as I'm writing this I re-imagined something laser etched.  This 
> is a phenomenal start towards either of those goals.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>> On Jan 5, 2016 5:14 PM, "Bill Coleman via CnC-List"  
>> wrote:
>> Beautiful !  You may have a future there - !
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Seems like you should have the + on there, as the 37 is a completely 
>> different boat.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Regards,
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Bill Coleman
>> 
>> C 39 Erie PA
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary 
>> Russell via CnC-List
>> Sent: Tuesday, January 05, 2016 4:50 PM
>> To: C List
>> Cc: Gary Russell
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List C Nameplate
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> I have created a CAD file of the starboard side nameplate.  I welcome your 
>> opinions and criticism.  You may see it here:
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwQRSP2fYIFmR3dFbllPdXZ6aHc/view?usp=sharing
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> It's only the starboard side (so far), but all the symbols and characters 
>> are individual components, so they can easily be re-arranged.  I need to 
>> check a few dimension on the boat before I send it out for fabrication, but 
>> it was just too cold here today to bother.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Gary
>> 
>> S/V High Maintenance
>> 
>> '90 C 37 Plus
>> 
>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ~~~_/)~~
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> On Mon, Jan 4, 2016 at 2:59 PM, Gary Russell  wrote:
>> 
>> Hi Josh,
>> 
>>  The dimensions I have are 21-3/16"L x 2"H x 1/4"T.  If using acrylic, I 
>> would definitely recommend VHB tape.  It is terrific stuff for acrylic and 
>> gelcoat.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Gary
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ~~~_/)~~
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> On Mon, Jan 4, 2016 at 11:58 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> I may have missed the message or dropped the ball last year.  Sorry folks.
>> 
>> The one on Ken's boat is aftermarket and is held on with 2 screws, one at 
>> each end.  The way I imagined one being made and installed was that the 
>> original plaque would be ground flush and the new metal plate fitted over 
>> top.  For attachment I felt like welded on studs (in place of screws) that 
>> went through the hull/deck was most favorable.  I don't know any of the 
>> engineering hurdles.  To be honest, an automotive body shop would just use 
>> 3M VHB tape.
>> 
>> The pictures should be sufficient to create a scale model.  The height is 
>> roughly 2.5 inches.  I'll try to get real measurements asap so that the 
>> scale can be applied to achieve the correct finished size.
>> 
>> https://drive.google.com/folder/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yUklxR0VXQUd0WjA/edit
>> 
>> Josh
>> 
>> On Jan 4, 2016 11:24 AM, "david via CnC-List"  wrote:
>> 
>> This topic came up last year and I will put forward the same offer.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> I own / work at a shop that has CNC machining capability and 3D solid 
>> modeling expertise. We work with solid models every day. My engineer is also 
>> an enthusiast of 3D printing and last year bought his own printer, although 
>> I am not sure of the size of it. It is able to print to different grades and 
>> / or quality of acrylic.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> I would like to offer to produce a solid model at the least. The beauty of a 
>> model is you can see what it looks like prior to building anything. There 
>> are lots of manufacturing or production techniques that can be used to make 
>> these depending on the material one wants to use. From what I recall the 
>> ones with the raised letter (maybe acrylic) were also "recessed" into the 
>> cabin. I think the ones on Ken's boat are proud of the surface and maybe 
>> were never recessed or this was filled up.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> I believe where it left off last time was someone was going to make a sketch 
>> or more specifically a "rubbing" of the outline so we had at least the outer 
>> dimensions and scale of the logo and star.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> David 

Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Gary W. Russell via CnC-List]

Wow!  You guys are lucky!  My Windows came out in pieces with significant gel 
coat damage.

Gary
S/V High Maintenance
1990 C 37 Plus
East Greenwich, RI, USA

Sent from my iPhone. ~~~_/)~~~

> On Nov 9, 2015, at 9:26 AM, Nate Flesness via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Ditto. Not even very firm rap of hand was needed...
> 
> Nate
> "Sarah Jean"
> 1980 30-1
> 
> and T31 
> 
>> On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 8:21 AM, mike amirault via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Stevan, mine just popped out with a firm rap from my hand. Had to fix up a 
>> few small patches of gelcoat but nothing major.
>>  
>> Mike Amirault
>> C MKii SMSC
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
>> of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List knotmeter malfunction

[Gary W. Russell via CnC-List]

If you are talking Nexus, I think I know the problem.  Mine would spin freely 
when I removed it but wouldn't work when installed.  The problem is growth on 
the inside of the bushing that is not pushed out when the knot meter is 
installed.  The paddle wheel is only slightly smaller than the bushing ID, and 
the paddles catch on the growth.  I had to file about 1/32" off each paddle, 
and never had the problem again.

Gary
S/V High Maintenance
'90 C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA

Sent from my iPhone. ~~~_/)~~~

> On Aug 31, 2015, at 1:23 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> The paddle wheel spins freely and the knotmeter works. The only thing I can 
> think of is some random piece of goo was stuck on it from the dirty bottom 
> and I never saw it because of the pressure wash at haulout.
> In other news I got my spare impeller out and it works too – but it is 
> missing the O-rings. WTF??? Good thing I looked now!
>  
> Joe
> Coquina
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew 
> Burton via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, August 25, 2015 11:09 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Andrew Burton
> Subject: Re: Stus-List knotmeter malfunction
>  
> The paddle wheel should turn easily when you blow on it. If it doesn't then 
> you may need to clean the socket in which it turns. Bleach helps.
>  
> Andy
> C 40
> Peregrine
> Currently enjoying the warm clear weather in St Andrews, New Brunswich.
> 
> Andrew Burton
> 61 W Narragansett
> Newport, RI 
> USA02840
>  
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> +401 965-5260
> 
> On Aug 25, 2015, at 10:52, Gary Nylander via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I get growth in the slot where the little wheel spins. Have done a lot of 
> 'fixes' to make it work, and it is still spotty. I even bought a new wheel... 
> no help. (Nexus)
>  
> Gary
> 30-1
> Weedy mid-Chesapeake
> - Original Message -
> From: Monty Schumpert via CnC-List
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Monty Schumpert
> Sent: Tuesday, August 25, 2015 10:45 AM
> Subject: Re: Stus-List knotmeter malfunction
>  
> Joe,
> I had the same symptoms with my knotmeter last week. The boat had been unused 
> for several weeks with the bung installed. I installed the transducer(s) 
> before leaving the dock and the knotmeter read zero until we had covered 
> about 5 miles when it started reading correctly. I assumed there was a 
> build-up of growth in front of the paddlewheel, and it performed fine for the 
> rest of the trip.
> 
> Monty
> Scandia
> 1991 C 34+
> Annapolos, MD
>  
> On Mon, Aug 24, 2015 at 5:00 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> Coquina just got hauled this morning. Now I can go over and see why my 
> knotmeter reads 0 underway, but if I pull the impellor out and spin it the 
> readings are good. Any ideas why the paddlewheel spins freely in my hand but 
> not in the water???
> BTW – the diver that cleaned my bottom said now I had 3 different colors of 
> paint showing maybe it was time for more LOL. The last time I painted I did 
> one blue layer and one red layer over black original. It seems to have 
> ablated itself right off the boat.
>  
> Joe Della Barba
> Coquina
> C 35 MK I
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
> 
>  
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Batteries -- Anyone use 6V's?

[Gary W. Russell via CnC-List]

I use 4 6 volt golf cart batteries on Expresso for the house (2 in series / the 
pairs wired in parallel).  They usually last me 9 or 10  years.  It's a good 
solution.  I use a 12 volt battery for the start battery.  I use a battery 
combiner to charge them.

Gary
S/V Expresso

Sent from my iPhone. ~~~_/)~~~

 On Dec 14, 2014, at 3:18 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 Listers,
 
 I know the battery topic has been discharged (pun intended) quite a bit, but 
 I've been hearing about people using chained 6V Golf Cart batteries as a 
 preferred alternate to the Marine 12Vs for the house bank. 
 
 Has anyone tried this? If so, how many do you use? 4? 6? 8? Any problems? 
 Happy with the results?
 
 4.5 months to the relaunch...
 
 All the best,
 
 Edd
 
 ---
 Edd M. Schillay
 Starship Enterprise
 CC 37+ | NCC-1701-B
 City Island, NY
 www.StarshipSailing.com
 ---
 Sent from my iPad Air
 iPad. iTypos. iApologize
 
 
 
 ___
 This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
 at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 

___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Alternator? Belt? Suggestions?

[Gary W. Russell via CnC-List]

:-)
Gary
S/V Expresso


Sent from my iPhone. ~~~_/)~~~

 On Aug 3, 2014, at 2:32 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 
 All,
 
 I'm happy to report that it was the belt. My wife and I changed it today, 
 started up the engine, heard no whistling and saw a healthy 14.4 volts coming 
 through. 
 
 Lesson learned. Change your belts on a regular basis. 
 
 
 All the best,
 
 Edd
 
 ---
 Edd M. Schillay
 Starship Enterprise
 NCC-1701-B
 CC 37+ | City Island, NY
 www.StarshipSailing.com
 ---
 914.332.4400  | Office
 914.332.1671  | Fax
 914.774.9767  | Mobile
 ---
 Sent via iPhone 5
 
 On Jul 31, 2014, at 5:18 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 * above 13.2 V then the
 alternator is suspect.*
  
 This would only be true with a sophisticated 3-stage regulator that would not 
 use bulk mode for a fixed time, but rather sense the battery was full and go 
 right to float.
 A fixed set-point regulator should go right to the set-point with a full 
 battery and a timer-controlled 3 stage regulator would still be in 
 bulk/absorption mode for a given time. Most fixed regulators would be 
 someplace between 13.8 and 14.7 volts.
  
 Joe Della Barba
 Coquina
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Michael 
 Brown via CnC-List
 Sent: Thursday, July 31, 2014 5:03 PM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Alternator? Belt? Suggestions?
  
 Is the volt meter accurate? Wiring OK?
 
 If the alternator belt is vibrating vertically more than +/- 1/4 on a 10 
 span while the engine is running
 it is likely the belt is too loose. If after running the motor for 3 - 5 
 minutes if the belt is quickly uncomfortable
 to touch it is slipping, which may be it is loose or has become glazed.
 
 If the belt is not the problem, charge up the battery(s), disconnect the 
 charger and let them rest maybe 30 minutes.
 Measure the voltage as close to the battery terminals as is convenient with 
 no load from the boat. Add a small
 load, 1 - 2 amps, like a bulb style nav lights for an hour. Check the voltage 
 again.
 
 Start the motor, wait about 1 minute and check the voltage. 
 
 A common open circuit voltage for a charged flooded lead acid battery is 12.6 
 V.
 After 1 hour of 1 - 2 amp load the voltage should still be above 12.4 V.
 
 If after 1 minute of running the motor the voltage needs to be at least 13.2 
 volts, which is considered to be
 a final float voltage. This is assuming a regular flooded lead acid deep 
 cycle battery.
 
 If the after being connected to the dock side charger the battery is not 
 coming up to 12.6 V the charger may
 be defective or the battery is not fully charging. A battery may fail in a 
 mode where after a rest from charging
 the voltage is under 12 volts, and it loads the charging system without going 
 over 13 V.
 
 If the battery charges to 12.6 ( all these voltages are approximate, could be 
 +/- 0.1 volt ), and after a
 1 - 2 amp/hr discharge is still at 12.5 volts but the alternator is not 
 charging above 13.2 V then the
 alternator is suspect. Hard to guess what may be wrong with it.
 
 Michael Brown
 Windburn
 CC 30-1
 
 
 
 Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2014 14:12:59 -0400 
 From: Edd Schillay e...@schillay.com 
 To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 Subject: Stus-List Alternator? Belt? Suggestions? 
 Message-ID: 216c6d78-b3d7-4c7a-912b-c377d5020...@schillay.com 
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252 
 
 Listers, 
 
 Lately, when the engine running, I?m seeing the voltage reach 13.2 tops 
 when it used to be much higher (13.7 to 14.0). 
 
 Is this an alternator issue or is it the belt tightness? Any suggestions 
 would be much appreciated. 
 
 
 All the best, 
 
 Edd 
 
 
 Edd M. Schillay 
 Starship Enterprise 
 CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B 
 City Island, NY 
 Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
 ___
 This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
 at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 ___
 This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
 at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Alternator? Belt? Suggestions?

[Gary W. Russell via CnC-List]

It's sort of like golf.  Do look for a ball were you don't want to find it.

Gary

Sent from my iPhone. ~~~_/)~~~

 On Aug 3, 2014, at 2:32 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 
 All,
 
 I'm happy to report that it was the belt. My wife and I changed it today, 
 started up the engine, heard no whistling and saw a healthy 14.4 volts coming 
 through. 
 
 Lesson learned. Change your belts on a regular basis. 
 
 
 All the best,
 
 Edd
 
 ---
 Edd M. Schillay
 Starship Enterprise
 NCC-1701-B
 CC 37+ | City Island, NY
 www.StarshipSailing.com
 ---
 914.332.4400  | Office
 914.332.1671  | Fax
 914.774.9767  | Mobile
 ---
 Sent via iPhone 5
 
 On Jul 31, 2014, at 5:18 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 * above 13.2 V then the
 alternator is suspect.*
  
 This would only be true with a sophisticated 3-stage regulator that would not 
 use bulk mode for a fixed time, but rather sense the battery was full and go 
 right to float.
 A fixed set-point regulator should go right to the set-point with a full 
 battery and a timer-controlled 3 stage regulator would still be in 
 bulk/absorption mode for a given time. Most fixed regulators would be 
 someplace between 13.8 and 14.7 volts.
  
 Joe Della Barba
 Coquina
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Michael 
 Brown via CnC-List
 Sent: Thursday, July 31, 2014 5:03 PM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Alternator? Belt? Suggestions?
  
 Is the volt meter accurate? Wiring OK?
 
 If the alternator belt is vibrating vertically more than +/- 1/4 on a 10 
 span while the engine is running
 it is likely the belt is too loose. If after running the motor for 3 - 5 
 minutes if the belt is quickly uncomfortable
 to touch it is slipping, which may be it is loose or has become glazed.
 
 If the belt is not the problem, charge up the battery(s), disconnect the 
 charger and let them rest maybe 30 minutes.
 Measure the voltage as close to the battery terminals as is convenient with 
 no load from the boat. Add a small
 load, 1 - 2 amps, like a bulb style nav lights for an hour. Check the voltage 
 again.
 
 Start the motor, wait about 1 minute and check the voltage. 
 
 A common open circuit voltage for a charged flooded lead acid battery is 12.6 
 V.
 After 1 hour of 1 - 2 amp load the voltage should still be above 12.4 V.
 
 If after 1 minute of running the motor the voltage needs to be at least 13.2 
 volts, which is considered to be
 a final float voltage. This is assuming a regular flooded lead acid deep 
 cycle battery.
 
 If the after being connected to the dock side charger the battery is not 
 coming up to 12.6 V the charger may
 be defective or the battery is not fully charging. A battery may fail in a 
 mode where after a rest from charging
 the voltage is under 12 volts, and it loads the charging system without going 
 over 13 V.
 
 If the battery charges to 12.6 ( all these voltages are approximate, could be 
 +/- 0.1 volt ), and after a
 1 - 2 amp/hr discharge is still at 12.5 volts but the alternator is not 
 charging above 13.2 V then the
 alternator is suspect. Hard to guess what may be wrong with it.
 
 Michael Brown
 Windburn
 CC 30-1
 
 
 
 Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2014 14:12:59 -0400 
 From: Edd Schillay e...@schillay.com 
 To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 Subject: Stus-List Alternator? Belt? Suggestions? 
 Message-ID: 216c6d78-b3d7-4c7a-912b-c377d5020...@schillay.com 
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252 
 
 Listers, 
 
 Lately, when the engine running, I?m seeing the voltage reach 13.2 tops 
 when it used to be much higher (13.7 to 14.0). 
 
 Is this an alternator issue or is it the belt tightness? Any suggestions 
 would be much appreciated. 
 
 
 All the best, 
 
 Edd 
 
 
 Edd M. Schillay 
 Starship Enterprise 
 CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B 
 City Island, NY 
 Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
 ___
 This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
 at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 ___
 This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
 at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Teak and Holly floor Boards

[Gary W. Russell via CnC-List]

I used Lonseal.  Very happy.
S/V Expresso
CC 35 Mk II


Sent from my iPhone. ~~~_/)~~~

 On May 24, 2014, at 3:02 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 
 Would you consider plastic?  PlasTeak, Lonseal and others.  Nice looking and 
 easy to work with.  Basically just like vinyl flooring, cut, glue and roll 
 with a laminate roller.  Virtually maintenance free.
 
 Roughly 2x cost of wood but 1/5th the work.
 
 Dennis C.
 Touche' 35-1 #83
 Mandeville, LA
 
 
 On Sat, May 24, 2014 at 1:44 PM, Lee via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 I  need to replace the floor boards on my 1987 35' CC Mark 3. 
 I am having trouble finding a source.  Any suggestions for me or has anyone 
 done this before?
 
 ___
 This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of 
 page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 
 
 ___
 This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
 at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com