Stus-List LMPHRF Certificates

[Glenn via CnC-List]

LMPHRF Listers,

Have you received your LMPHRF Certificate for 2016 yet?  I applied 
during early February and still have not received my certificate.  Would 
appreciate any comments.  E-mailed LMPHRF, but have received no response 
yet.


Glenn Gambel
C 36
Wind N Spirits___

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Re: Stus-List Hull paint pressure wash chips

[Glenn via CnC-List]

Steve,

Would be nice to see a picture or two of the "paint chips" which you 
subsequently refer to as holes in your posting.  I would be concerned 
that they could be a result of pox.  Should that be the case, a more 
extensive repair is necessary.  When I redid the bottom of my C 36, I 
examined it for pox closely.  I found none, but still decided to sand 
blast it in the fall and let it dry over the winter.  I then applied 4 
to 5 coats of Interlux 2000, followed by VC 17 bottom paint.  It has 
held up very nicely since that time.  I only apply the VC 17 each year 
to keep the Zebra Muscles off the bottom.  If you have to repair holes 
all over the bottom, you may want to use West System Epoxy.  It takes a 
while and it is work, but when it is done and then coated with Interlux 
2000, followed by a bottom paint, you should have no problems in the 
future.  I am sure other from you area may have more pertinent advice.  
I am in fresh water on Lake Michigan.


G. Gambel
Wind N Spirits C 36

-- Original Message --
From: "sthoma20--- via CnC-List" 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: sthom...@bellnet.ca
Sent: 3/29/2016 11:10:01 AM
Subject: Stus-List Hull paint pressure wash chips

One result of many years of barnicle build up, followed by scraping and 
aggressive pressure washing is that a number of paint "chips" were 
ripped out right down to the fibreglass or lead substrate on the 
new-to-me-but-old-and-neglected C that I am attempting to renovate. 
My intent for the time being is to remove the remaining barnacle 
plates, lightly sand the existing ablative, and replace it with more of 
the same. That said, I think it would be wise to do something about 
these holes, and that a few tubes of spot putty might do the trick. The 
main question I have is should I use some sort of primer first, and 
what product is likely to work?


Steve Thomas
C
Merritt Island, FL


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Contributions are greatly appreciated!




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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Diesel issues

[Glenn via CnC-List]

If the fuel line has a filter on the end of it at the bottom of the fuel 
tank, it can suck fuel until it clogs.  When it stopped sucking the fuel 
up (engine stops), it unclogs and then sucks fuel to the combustion 
chamber againuntil it clogs again.  Obviously, the time of this 
process varies (as it has for you).  If it doesn't have a fuel filter at 
the bottom of the fuel line in the tank, then it is likely a clogged 
fuel filter elsewhere.  If you change the fuel filter on the engine, and 
it keeps happening check the tank idea.  Some Universal engines had that 
problem.


Good luck.

Glenn Gambel
Wind N Spirits, CC 36

-- Original Message --
From: Charlie Nelson via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: cenel...@aol.com
Sent: 7/19/2015 6:45:07 PM
Subject: Stus-List Diesel issues

On the way to and from our racing area, my Beta-25 with only 390 hours 
on it was running fine and then it dies.


It started up right away, ran for a few minutes then died again.

We sailed out of the channel for about 10 minutes, started it up again 
with no problems and it ran for 20-30 minutes before

I shut it down for the race.

On the way back we motored around loafing at about 4 knots for 30 
minutes as we headed for the channel back to the slip.


Halfway in it died again. I used the electric fuel pump to be sure it 
was 'primed' and it started right up and then quit again after about

30 seconds.

By then, we were close enough to the slip to sail in--kept the main up 
for just such an event--which we did without issues (a competent crew

of 6 can do that!).

Ran it in the slip at full throttle and it died again after about 3 
minutes. Started tight up, ran again at full throttle and it died 
again.


Fuel tank is only 3 hours into a full tank (48 gallons) and the pick-up 
tube was replaced last year to go further down into the tank so neither
the fuel level or pick-up tube level can be issues. I also added some 
Stan-dyne (?) when I last filled the tank earlier this year.


The Neuse River was almost flat since we had only a 5 knot breeze so I 
doubt that it was 'stirred up' crud from the tank.


Haven't replaced the fuel filter between the tank and the engine or the 
engine mounted one this season (did it last year) so that is my first 
chore

since IMHO it looks like a fuel issue or an air in the fuel line issue.

I also will check all the clamps that are used to seal the fuel line 
from the tank to the engine.


Does the list have any other suggestions/ideas besides what I listed?

TIA,

Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
1995 CC 36 XL/kcb







cenel...@aol.com___

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Re: Stus-List Antifreeze Mystery

[Glenn via CnC-List]

I discovered that the radiator cap on the after market heat exchanger 
was worn and allowing anti-freeze to escape when the engine heated up.  
Replaced the radiator cap with a new one and it seems to have solved 
that problem.  I too had drain valves that would mysteriously open.  
Solved that problem first, but the problem persisted and found the 
radiator cap issue.  Gremlins pop up in many places.


-- Original Message --
From: robert via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert robertabb...@eastlink.ca
Sent: 5/24/2015 9:24:58 PM
Subject: Stus-List Antifreeze Mystery


John:

Thank you both good tips...your first one could be the culprit but 
your second one could also be the  culprit.the antifreeze (Preston) 
is approx. 8 years oldI will flush and replace it before Fall layup 
and see what happens.  As I said earlier, it does not happen after 
launch and before hauljust during the cold of winter.


A few years back, one of the engine block antifreeze drain valves came 
loose during the sailing  motoring season which was noticed when 
antifreeze entered the bilgea little stress until the loose valve 
was detected.  Some times we get lucky!


Rob Abbott
AZURA
CC 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.



On 2015-05-24 3:33 PM, John Russo via CnC-List wrote:

Check to insure your engine block drain valves are tight before winter
storage. Second thought is weird but offered anyhow. Is antifreeze 
fresh?
Could there be a blockage somewhere where the antifreeze is diluted 
and
freezes which would expand and force the top stuff out somehow. I said 
it
was a weird thought! I will discuss it with the mechanic at the yard 
who is

pretty sharp and seen most things.

John
CC 32
Arpeggio

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
robert

via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, May 24, 2015 11:25 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert
Subject: Stus-List Antifreeze Mystery

After the engine is winterized in the Fall, I place a plastic pan 
under
it.not sure why but I do.  Every Spring, there is approximately a 
half a

cup or 250 ml of antifreeze in the pan.

I have looked everywhere for the source of this antifreeze but I can't 
find
out where it is coming from.  The boat was launched 3 weeks ago, the 
engine
has about 3 hours on it since then, the pan is still under the engine 
but
there is no antifreeze in it.  And the antifreeze does not appear 
during the

sailing season.

I notice every Spring the level of the antifreeze in the 'overflow
container' is down a bit and I refill to the 'FULL LEVEL' but that 
container

is not leaking.  It's a mystery!

Anybody experience this and/or have any ideas where this antifreeze 
could be

originating from?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
CC 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


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