Stus-List Boat Selling Tips

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Hi guys,

I’ve been lurking for quite some time, but still have an interest for this 
great group.  Having purchased a larger cruising boat last year (Bavaria 44), I 
have tried for over a year to sell my 1986 C Mk-III.  I initially tried to 
sell it myself.  I listed it on Craigslist, advertised on the FSBO web site 
(for sale by owner), and spread the word through my local sailors.

When summer turned to fall and no action, I enlisted a reputable local broker 
to list my boat.  After listing it on Yacht World for over a year, we have yet 
to have a single buyer interested enough to even come take a look at it.  

The boat is well equipped for racing and cruising and comes with a ton of 
equipment.  I’ve dropped the price over $10K and still no interest.  What does 
it take to sell a boat these days?  Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Jake Brodersen

1986 C 35 Mk-III

“Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA



 

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Re: Stus-List Cutlass bearing

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Gerry,

 

The shaft will not clear the rudder.  I drop the rudder to replace the cutless 
bearing.  The process takes me about half an hour to remove the rudder.  I’ve 
done it three times over the years.  I use anti-seize on the quadrant bolts.  
It makes a huge difference.

 

I dd it again this spring.  When I was launching, the yard mentioned that they 
have the special tool to replace the bearing with the shaft in place.  NOW THEY 
TELL ME

The special tool does work, if you can find one to borrow.  It will save you 
time.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Bavaria 44

Hampton VA



 

  

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Gerald Fennessey 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 24, 2018 16:08
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Gerald Fennessey 
Subject: Stus-List Cutlass bearing

 

Looking to replace the cutlass bearing  

on my 1985 35 mk3. 

Any info would be helpful.

 Does the rudder have to be removed or will the shaft slide by it?

Is there a special tool for removing it without removing the shaft?

 

Thanks

Gerry Fennessey

Fianna

 


gfennes...@verizon.net <mailto:gfennes...@verizon.net> 

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Re: Stus-List Sail bag zippers

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

John,

 

The metal body of the zipper is probably corroded.  Soaking it in vinegar is
supposed to help.  I've free'd up a couple my repeated moving them back and
forth until the corrosion is worn down enough for them to move freely again.
It all depends on how bad they are.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III "Midnight Mistress"

Bavaria 44 "Winedown"

Hampton VA



 

 

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of John and Maryann
Read via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, September 15, 2018 07:53
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: John and Maryann Read 
Subject: Stus-List Sail bag zippers

 

Seems the zipper on one of my sail bags is frozen in position.  Metal
fixture with zipper of plastic teeth. Have tried soaking inn soapy water,
oil, spray lubricant all to no avail.  Any ideas??

 

TIA

 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Storm Florence

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Thanks Fred.  I’m hunkered down with one boat in the water and one on the hard. 
 It looks like we will get a bit of wind and rain, but nothing serious.  I’m 
ready, just in case Florence can’t follow the line on the predictions.  

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA



 

 

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Frederick G Street 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, September 12, 2018 07:55
To: Glenn Henderson via CnC-List 
Cc: Frederick G Street 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Storm Florence

 

To Joel, Jake, Rick, Jim, and all of my other C friends and acquaintances on 
the East Coast: I wish you luck in the upcoming storm, and hope you are able to 
weather it well.

 

— Fred


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI





On Sep 11, 2018, at 9:58 PM, John Conklin via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

Well hoping for the best here in Oriental. This rookie missed getting on the 
haul out list by a few boats. And incant anchor out with my limited experience 
so  after 7 hours prepping the boat today for the frist time 

I have done what i can also have a home here so it was a long day ! 

I am more concernd with. Surge which is predicted locally at 9-13 ft 

Kinda hard to figure out how to tie up such a forecast and i know i have done 
my best. I have only owned Halcyon this season  and just getting 
Her. Really would like to continue on this sweet old C girl 

Fingers crossed , and toes !!

 

John Conklin

S/V Halcyon

www.flirtingwithfire.net <http://www.flirtingwithfire.net/> 

 


On Sep 11, 2018, at 2:07 PM, bwhitmore via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Ugh...  Good luck Mark!

 

I hope you are as fortunate as us last with Irma.  We did a lot of preparation, 
and as it was bearing down on us we move to safer ground.  We were resigning 
ourselves to losing the boat and sustaining significant damage to the house.  
In the end the storm moved inland earlier than anticipated and depowered, 
leaving us essentially unscathed.

 

When that was happening the one thing I regretted most was potentially losing 
Astralis.

 

Fair Winds,

 

Bruce Whitmore 

 

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Re: Stus-List Storm Florence

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Mark,

I feel your pain.  I've got one boat in the water (C) and one on the hard
(my new Bavaria).  Not sure we'll have time to haul the C before the storm
hits.  Lots of folks want to haul and there's only so much time during the
day.

Take good care of your boat.  A wise old friend once told me:  "If we lose
the house, we can live on the boat, but if we lose the boat I can't race the
house next weekend!"

Jake

Jake Brodersen
C 35 Mk-III "Midnight Mistress"
Hampton VA




-Original Message-
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Mark Baldridge
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 10, 2018 20:11
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Mark Baldridge 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Storm Florence

This one is not going to be good. The eye is projected to come inland 10
miles south of our house (living on an island is great 11 months out of the
year). We boarded up today and I told the wife if there is anything you want
to see again, pack it up. We're heading up to Washington NC tomorrow to
anchor the boat out. We're setting the 35lb CQR with 150' 
chain and snubber and a 50 lb danforth in the Pamlico River in 12 feet of
water.

Most NC storms do a late track to the north which would impact the boat as
much as the house. Hopefully, this will stay the course and spare the boat
(priorities!).

Arrrgh,
Mark Baldridge
~~_/)
'89 C/40+ "The Edge" #30
Surf City, NC




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Re: Stus-List Pop yachts

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Kevin,

 

I was contacted by Pop Yachts shortly after listing my boat on another web 
site.  They seem genuine, but the online reviews I have read haven’t painted a 
very good picture.  A lot of one start ratings.  Evidently they mark the price 
up to make their profit, but if you get your bottom line, it seems like an ok 
deal.  I just haven’t taken their bait yet.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA



 

 

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Kevin Paxton via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 20, 2018 17:04
To: cnc-list Cnc-List 
Cc: Kevin Paxton 
Subject: Stus-List Pop yachts

 

Hey everyone

As you saw I just posted my '82 34 for sale yesterday. Today I got a message 
from Pop yachts in FL asking if I would like them to market my vessel and tack 
their fee on top of the sale price.

 

Has anyone has any experience with these guys?  Are they reputable? Anything I 
should know about them good or bad? 

 

Thanks! 

Kevin

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Re: Stus-List Diesel additive one last time

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Ron,

 

I use the performance formula.  It supposedly increases lubricity, as well as 
increasing the cetane rating.  I’ve used it for over 20 years and have no 
complaints.  I use it in my boats and my Duramax powered diesel Suburban.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA



 

 

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Ronald B. Frerker 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 20, 2018 18:32
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ronald B. Frerker 
Subject: Stus-List Diesel additive one last time

 

>From past emails I reviewed, I noted that Stanadyne and Biofor JR are the 
>additives of majority choice.

One question, which Stanadyne formula are folks using, the Lubricity or 
Performance formula?  And does one formula cover both performance and lubricity?

Ron

Wild Cheri

C 30-1

STL

 

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Re: Stus-List sheet routing to winch - 35-3

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Graham ,

I got rid of the cheek blocks 18 years ago.  They didn't serve any useful 
function.  I go directly from the genoa car to either the primary or secondary 
winches.  The lead angles are almost the same, and they're quite good, even 
with the genoa car full forward for the #3 jib.

Midnight Mistress is still for sale.  Asking $35,000.  Come make an offer 
before I turn it over to a broker...

Jake

Jake Brodersen
C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”
Hampton VA




-Original Message-
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of G Collins via 
CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2018 19:23
To: C List 
Cc: G Collins 
Subject: Stus-List sheet routing to winch - 35-3

Hey, this talk of winch lead angles has me pondering again the setup we use on 
Secret Plans, I'm wondering what other 35-3 owners do.  We usually run the jib 
sheets on the secondaries (aft pair of winches) because on the primaries the 
winch handle hits the dodger, and if we use the secondaries I (while steering) 
can also crank the winch.  The line comes off the jib track block, back to the 
cheek block adjacent to the secondary winch, and up at a horrible angle onto 
the winch.  Which leads to more friction than there should be.

I'm thinking of just going from the block on the track to the winch.

Any better setups?  Cutting back the dodger isn't on the table. How do other 
35-3 owners do it?

regards,

--
Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C 35-III #11

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Re: Stus-List 35-3 Bimini

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Brien,

 

I have a bimini on my 35-3.  I will send you a pic off-list.

 

Jake

 

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA



 

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Brien Sadler via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 6, 2018 08:14
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Brien Sadler 
Subject: Stus-List 35-3 Bimini

 

In an attempt to not recreate the wheel, I'm looking for information, pictures, 
or a source lead on a bimini frame for an '87 35-3. Any help would be greatly 
appreciated.

 

Brien Sadler

S/V TAZ 

1987 C 35-3

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Re: Stus-List Spraying soap into Yanmar turbo

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

If somebody tried to sell me turbo wash, I would have thought they were pulling 
my leg.

 

When I was an aviator we used to send the young lieutenants to supply to pick 
up some “jet wash” or a left-handed crescent wrench.

 

Thankfully, I don’t have a turbo either (except in my Suburban), otherwise I’d 
be stocking up on turbo wash…

 

Jake

 

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA



 

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, July 19, 2018 14:45
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Spraying soap into Yanmar turbo

 

At work I have two 5.5MW electrical generators that are made by Warsilla-Sacm.  
The generator is driven on both ends of by a mirror image 16 cylinder twin 
turbo diesel engine.  So each generator has 4 turbos in total.  There is a wash 
pot which has a capacity of 1 qt.  You fill the pot with DI water and then push 
a button to port intake vacuum to the pot.  Engine vacuum sucks the water out 
to clean the turbo.  1 pot, 1 turbo.  I can't speak for detergents, but washing 
turbos is certainly a thing. 

 

There are some crazy YouTube videos of people using a garden hose in the air 
intake of their naturally aspirated cars.  Seems crazy or stupid or dangerous 
or all three.

 

https://youtu.be/eZDISp2pdSo

 

I'm kinda glad I don't have a turbo. 

 

 

Josh Muckley

S/V Sea Hawk 

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD 

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Re: Stus-List Removing old stickers

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Charlie,

 

A heat gun might soften the adhesive to where it might make removal easier.

 

Jake

 

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA



 

 

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Charlie Nelson via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, July 18, 2018 11:59
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: cenel...@aol.com
Subject: Stus-List Removing old stickers

 

I have Charleston Race Week stickers on my bow (OK, I have been busy with other 
things!) that I need to remove.

 

The boat has Awl-Grip on its hull which I would prefer to preserve. 

 

Aside from plastic scrapers, soap and water, and elbow grease, does anyone have 
a magic remedy to remove this. 

 

Its not a decal, just adhesive backed but they are about 18" x 18". 

 

TIA,

 

Charlie Nelson

Water Phantom

1995 C XL/kcb 

 

cenel...@aol.com <mailto:cenel...@aol.com> 

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Re: Stus-List Yanmar 3HM35F Exhaust riser/goose neck

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Josh,

 

That’s a nasty hole.  How old is the elbow?  Time for a new one.  Standard or 
stainless?

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA



 

 

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via 
CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, July 14, 2018 15:21
To: C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Stus-List Yanmar 3HM35F Exhaust riser/goose neck

 

I found some rust blisters on the riser while poking around in the engine the 
other day.  I had a moment yesterday to do the replacement with parts which I 
have had for some time.  The rubber exhaust hose was stuck on and a 
considerable amount of wrestling was required to separate it from the riser.  
In the effort it went unnoticed that some of the rust blisters had broken away. 
 Once I finally got it off and had a chance to inspect I found that the rust 
had opened up a dime sized hole.  If this had let go unexpectedly I would have 
started blowing exhaust and water into my engine compartment.  My "what would I 
have done" thoughts started rolling and I've decided that a tube of epoxy putty 
would have been my first effort at an emergency repair.

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1aC6-4V8P3BufZhZsusYFmMlmHknk-Ftv

 

Josh Muckley 

S/V Sea Hawk 

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD

 

 

 

 

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Stus-List C 35 Mk-III for Sale

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Guys,

 

As a long time lister and C owner I have truly enjoyed this forum.   I
have recently decided to move up to a larger boat and put my beloved 1986
C 35 Mk-III "Midnight Mistress" up for sale.  I am working on a full
equipment listing, which will be available soon.  

 

The boat is set up for comfortable racing and cruising with a good sail
inventory, dodger, bimini, awning, and a custom-fit winter cover.  The boat
was commissioned and launched in May of this year with a fresh coat of
bottom paint, some fresh varnish, and wax.  I will probably eventually list
it with a broker, but thought I'd see if there was any interest here first.
I am asking $37,500.

 

If you're interested in the boat, please drop me a note "off-list" @
captain_j...@cox.net <mailto:captain_j...@cox.net> .   The boat is currently
berthed in Hampton VA.

 

Thanks,

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III "Midnight Mistress"

Hampton VA



 

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Re: Stus-List Bow weldment problem.

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Brian,

I haven't been in my anchor locker in a while, but I don't recall seeing a
wood backing plate.  I will check this week.  This would be a good time to
replace it with some G10 or something similar.

Jake

Jake Brodersen
C 35 Mk-III "Midnight Mistress"
Hampton VA




-Original Message-
From: CnC-List <cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> On Behalf Of Brien Sadler via
CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2018 21:30
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Brien Sadler <brien.sad...@gmail.com>
Subject: Stus-List Bow weldment problem.


Listers,

I was in my chain locker today on TAZ looking at where the wire for the
running lights passes through the hull and into the chain locker, when I
noticed that there is a piece of wood partially surrounded by fiberglass
that looks like a backing for attaching the bow weldment with the chocks on
it to the deck. This piece of wood is completely rotten and the bow weldment
is now loose. Has anyone with a 35-3 run into this problem and if you did
what did you do to fix. Thanks for your help.


Brien Sadler
S/V TAZ
1987 C 35 Mk III

Sent from my iPad
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Re: Stus-List Rocha

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Brien,

I'm a Danforth user.  Not sure how well the Rocna would fit.

Jake

Jake Brodersen
C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”
Hampton VA




-Original Message-
From: CnC-List <cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> On Behalf Of Brien Sadler via 
CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2018 13:35
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Brien Sadler <brien.sad...@gmail.com>
Subject: Stus-List Rocha


Listers,

Quick question to all the 35-3 owners. Does anyone have a Rocna anchor and if 
so does the standard Rocna fit or do I need the Vulcan to fit that anchor 
roller weldment? Thanks for the help. 

P.S. I’m not looking to get into the anchor debate I did a bunch of research 
none are perfect and anything I feel is better than the tired CQR that I have 
now.

Thanks

Brien Sadler
S/V TAZ 
1987 C 35-3

Sent from my iPad
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Re: Stus-List 12v DC Voltage/Amperage

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Tom,

 

I’m with Dennis on this one.  Keep the compressor close to the power source
and buy more hose.  You won’t notice any pressure drop in the hose.  The
electrical resistance in the extended wiring may affect your compressor by
pulling more amperage (due to the voltage drop).

 

If your battery is on a charger, the compressor should operate fine.  The
voltage should be well above the 12 volts needed to drive the compressor
efficiently.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA



 

 

 

From: CnC-List <cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> On Behalf Of Tom Buscaglia
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2018 16:40
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Tom Buscaglia <t...@sv-alera.com>
Subject: Stus-List 12v DC Voltage/Amperage

 

Listers

I have been lusting after the 12v Nardi Esprit dive Hookah and my first mate
got it for me for my birthday.   She got me the wet suit a few years ago so
this was inevitable. 

Here's my issue(s).  It comes with about 6' of power cord, which will make
it difficult to get it running on deck due to the distance to the house
batteries under the settee.

My solution is to get a 16' 6 gauge jumper, then modify one end so that it
can be securely bolted to the existing cable ends.  It seems like it should
work.  I checked and unloaded here is virtually no voltage drop.  That said,
I am unsure about how it will behave under load and whether there would be a
significant amperage hit as well.

Lest issue is when I am docked can I use a battery that is being charged in
order to maintain voltage while on a extended dive.  The charger I have can
e used to start a car.  So, I figure it can handle it.  Just doing a bit of
a sanity check here.  There a picture, if any wants to look at this
stuff...(let me know of the link doesn't work. 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1IT_6H4jyfz8v4opckWo3-7UlXelpMcwG/view 

Tom B



.¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
Tom & Lynn Buscaglia
SV Alera
C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com <http://www.sv-alera.com/>  



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Re: Stus-List Building a hard bimini - part 1

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Looking great Joel.  The shade will be much appreciated.  And it is a great 
place for the solar panels.  Out of sight and out of mind.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA



 

 

 

From: CnC-List <cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> On Behalf Of Joel Aronson via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 16, 2018 11:26
To: cnc-list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Joel Aronson <joel.aron...@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Building a hard bimini - part 1

 

Danny,

 

I also expect to add solar, so this made more sense than new canvas.

 

For $300 worth of materials I took a shot!

 

Joel

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Re: Stus-List Traveler fit?

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Chuck,

 

I have a Harken traveler that was retrofitted.  It fits into the channel 
nicely.  Not so sure about the Lewmar.  An interesting note, I have seen the 
aluminum channel mounted both ways (U shape up and U shape down) on several 
35-3 models.  It seems to work either way.  That may be an option if you need 
the clearance for the Lewmar traveler.

 

Jake

 

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA



 

 

 

From: CnC-List <cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> On Behalf Of Chuck Saur via 
CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, April 14, 2018 11:55
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Chuck Saur <cssau...@gmail.com>
Subject: Stus-List Traveler fit?

 

Hello from frozen Michigan.  I am still spending my kids' inheritance on deck 
hardware. 

 

Question for 35-3 owners or others:  Has anyone replaced the aging Schaefer 
main traveler?  What advice might you offer...Defender has a sale on Lewmar 
traveler kits, size 2 which would offer enough capacity for us.  But...I am not 
at the boat, and wonder if the aluminum traveler bridge that houses the current 
track will allow the change to Lewmar?  Appears that the car-mounted cam cleats 
might be obstructed by the bridge "tray" height in the mid-section.  The Lewmar 
track appears lower in the pictures.  Current Schaefer setup has outboard 
mounted cam cleats.  

Any advice on replacement traveler selection?   

 

PS...Ice fishermen are still driving trucks to shanties on Hessel Bay. Yech.

 

 

Chuck Saur

 

​Morning Sky C$C 35-3

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Re: Stus-List Hatches and Vent fans.

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Brian,

My boat came with a vent in the forward hatch.  I removed it, as it was a 
source of water in the v berth area.  I have since replaced the lens.  The 
filler plug for the vent blocked some of the light (but was at least 
watertight).

I have a Nicro solar vent in the hatch over the main saloon.  Works great.  The 
plastic shop cut the hole when I replaced that lens too.  I don't have any 
ventilation in the head, but I do have a bungee cord to keep the head door open 
during the off season.  It helps.

Jake

Jake Brodersen
C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”
Hampton VA




-Original Message-
From: CnC-List <cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> On Behalf Of Brien Sadler via 
CnC-List
Sent: Friday, April 6, 2018 21:56
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Brien Sadler <brien.sad...@gmail.com>
Subject: Stus-List Hatches and Vent fans.


I have a 35-3 and my solar vent fan is though my forward hatch. Have any 35-3 
owners put their solar vent fan through the deck, possibly into the head and do 
you have pictures? I’m considering moving mine since I’d like more natural 
light coming in the v-berth. In addition all my hatches have the spider cracks 
in them has anyone replaced their acrylic with Plexi, sent their hatches to 
Select Plastics in Norwalk, CT to be refurbed or replaced them all together 
with Bomar or Lewmar hatches? I’m interested in everyone’s opinions and 
experience.

Thanks,

Brien Sadler
S/V TAZ
C 35-3
Sent from my iPad
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Re: Stus-List Spring Projects

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

I have a few things on my list this spring.

 

I’m finishing my rebuilding of the battery box.  I started the project last 
spring and didn’t finish it before I splashed…

Rebuilding the folding prop

Replacing the cutless bearing (ugh)

Wiring up my Actisense between my Garmin GPS and the Raymarine network

Wiring my oil pressure gauge.  The gauge went in six months ago.  Time to run 
some wires to it.  

Redoing all of the exterior teak.  I let it go too long and it’s peeling.

 

Jake

 

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA



 

 

 

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Re: Stus-List hydraulic backstay

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Dan,

 

That sounds pretty normal for a leaky seal to not hold pressure.  It’s odd that 
you leaked so much fluid though.  The backstay is the highest part of the 
system.  I would think that the pressure would eventually leak down to zero and 
then stop leaking altogether.

 

I’ve had my seals replaced before.  Cheap and easy fix.  I’ve also noticed that 
if you keep the top seal covered, it lasts longer.  Some folks use a foam can 
holder for this, although it doesn’t look that great.  Keeping the seal out of 
the sun will keep it lasting longer.

 

Jake

 

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA



 

 

 

From: CnC-List <cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> On Behalf Of Dan via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2018 23:18
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dan <dgcorm...@gmail.com>
Subject: Stus-List hydraulic backstay

 

Hey everyone,

I noticed that my hydraulic backstay was leaking a little hydraulic fluid 
around the piston point - an indication that a seal inside probably needs 
replacing... I noticed that over the winter most of the fluid has leaked out 
and the backstay will no longer hold pressure. We've had temperatures as low as 
-19 deg. Celcius here in Canada, just wondering if this leaking is normal with 
a bad seal or is there more at play here with leaving my hydraulics exposed to 
the harsh cold environment?

 

Thanks,

 

Dan

Breakaweigh

C

Halifax, NS

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Re: Stus-List Help with folding prop insights?

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Francois,

 

It’s great to hear that someone else has had good experience with the Martec 
prop.  I’m happy with mine.  I will be sending it in for the first rebuild.  
I’ve owned the boat for 18 years and this is the first time it will be needed.  
Of course, in those 18 years I’ve only logged 800 hours of motoring…

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA



 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Francois 
Rivard via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, February 19, 2018 14:34
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com; bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
Cc: Francois Rivard <jeanfrancoisriv...@gmail.com>
Subject: Stus-List Help with folding prop insights?

 

Hi Bruce, 

 

I have a Martec folder on my boat (34+ also called 34/36) which is your boat's 
little sister.  

 

We've been using it for 3 seasons and it's world of difference in sailing speed 
compared to a fixed 3 blades.  It's measurably better in all conditions.  

 

What you need to get it going:  

 

- Martec is a phone call away and they are helpful the founder / inventor's son 
is probably going to be the guy you talk to.  He's pretty knowledgeable. 

 

- When I did it a couple years back, sending the blade axis to get reamed / new 
pin / new Monel cotter pin was $80.00 plus shipping.  A steal.

 

- The Monel cotter pin is an absolute must.  I would not trust what came with 
the boat, order one.  Most people don't know the difference and think that 
Stainless can't corrode. It can and does under water, especially when in 
constant contact with dissimilar metals like a bronze prop. The stainless steal 
pin will fail overtime causing the whole thing to fall apart.  No such issues 
with Monel.  

 

- Don't let him try and talk you into "upgrading" the blades to more pitch.  We 
did / had tons of vibrations / ended up using the old blades which work much 
better 

 

How it performs

 

- Forward top speed under power is the same as the 3 bladed prop

 

- If it's in good shape / with the right blades it doesn't vibrate that much

 

- Reverse is weak and takes patience to get the prop to reverse direction / re 
deploy both blades correctly.  Not much of an emergency brake

 

- You have to go in the engine compartment and look at the shaft position to 
make sure the prop is folded with blades horizontal for max speed when racing. 
If they are vertical the lower one will hang down / drag.  There should be a 
mark on the shaft.  I found that if I stop the engine with the transmission in 
gear, the prop is almost always lined-up properly

 

- The prop is known to be the least drag prop when folded for sailing 

 

- Some say that they become loose quickly / need frequent rebuilds.  I have 
used it 3 years (we sail all year long in GA too)  / check it whenever we go 
swimming / so far it's still slop free. 

 

For us on the lake, it works fine. We don't motor very long distances I 
typically burn about 20-30 gallons of fuel per year.  For us, it's more about 
top speed sailing  / we race a fair amount  / it fits the bill / it's 
inexpensive. 

 

Best of luck / email me if you need more details.  

 

-Francois Rivard

1990 34+ "Take Five" 

Lake Lanier, GA

 

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Re: Stus-List Insurance

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Nothing quite like blowing your first chute one hour into a 6 day race…

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA



 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, February 12, 2018 10:49
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson <joel.aron...@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Insurance

 

Joe,

 

I could have made a claim for a 30 y/o chute?  Damn!

 

Joel

 

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Re: Stus-List Toe rail water drain

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Christian,

 

Water pooling on the side decks is an issue, along with the black streaks that 
seem to radiate from the toe rail.  I have seen others use small pieces of 
sponge or cotton rope to let the water wick over the side.  I would certainly 
try this before cutting into the toe rail.  Give it a shot.

 

Jake

 

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA



 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Christian 
Planton via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, February 10, 2018 16:03
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Christian Planton <plant...@wiltonps.org>
Subject: Stus-List Toe rail water drain

 

Hello everybody,

 

I am going to rebed my deck hardware. When I do I'm thinking of rebedding the 
toe rail. Has anybody cut drain points into it so the water drains out. I was 
even thinking of cutting 1/8" plastic strips and in a couple of places "Lifting 
up" the toe rail to create a path for the water to drain. 

 

I get puddles aft on both sides of the cockpit. 

 

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. 

 

ChristianPlanton

Peer Gyth

C 34 1980 

Saugatuck, CT 


 

 

Wilton Public Schools is transitioning e-mail systems.  Effective immediately, 
please update your contact list to reflect the new e-mail address 
plant...@wiltonps.org <mailto:plant...@wiltonps.org> .

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Re: Stus-List Masthead sheaves C 37+

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Josh,

 

I use the term stopper as a generic for sheet stoppers, halyard stoppers, 
jammers, rope clutches, or almost any kind of mechanical cleat (except a cam 
cleat.  I call those cam cleats).  I have some really old Schaefer rope 
clutches that work just fine.  They hold 3/8” or 10mm line well, 7/16” most of 
the time too.  

 

I don’t think there is any serious concern if the sheave is slightly too large. 
 Yes, the halyard will be slightly flattened, as it will not be supported quite 
as well, but as long as the difference is only 1/8” or so, it’s not an issue.  
A serious mismatch (1/4” or more) might be cause for some concern, but it would 
be the long term damage from being repeatedly flattened and reshaped as the 
line runs over the sheave.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA



 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, January 22, 2018 21:42
To: C List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Masthead sheaves C 37+

 

Halyard stopper?  What's that?  Haha, no really what's that?  Stopper balls?  
Or jammers?

 

You're right though 3/8ths is almost too small for my winches.  So smaller is 
pretty unlikely.  But bigger might be nice, particularly if it becomes 
necessary to run the taper of a core to core eye splice.

 

The 3/8ths sta-set I have for my spin halyard is almost too small at ~5000 lbs 
break strength.  I really like to make sure my lifting rigging is sufficient 
for climbing standards.

 

I guess my question is, is there any disadvantage to running smaller line in a 
big sheave.

 

Josh 

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Re: Stus-List Masthead sheaves C 37+

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Josh,

 

3/8” should be plenty big for your halyards.  ½” is certainly overkill.  Why 
not split the difference and go with 7/16”?  A slightly larger sheave should 
create any problems.  As strong as halyards are these days, some would argue 
that 3/8” might be a bit too large.  I’m sure your halyard stoppers are driving 
the decision as well.  Going too small can create problems.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA



 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, January 22, 2018 15:17
To: C List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com>
Subject: Stus-List Masthead sheaves C 37+

 

I have a new problem for the collective wisdom.

 

I'm getting the masthead sheaves re-made by Ed at Zephyrwerks.  He made my boom 
end sheaves 2 years ago and did a great job.  I have a 1/2" wide sheave box for 
3 sheaves.  He cut them with a slight relief and cut the groove for a 1/2" 
line.  I had told him that I simply didn't want to needlessly limit my options 
in the future despite only using 5/16ths or 3/8ths for the reefing lines.

 

Now 2 years later I'm in a similar situation except the masthead sheave boxes 
are 5/8ths wide.  I can't exactly recall but I believe that I'm running 3/8ths 
halyards.  When I talked to Ed he advised that he would like to cut the groove 
to match the line which is on the boat. 3/8ths. But also stated that he could 
cut it however I desired. It seems unnecessarily limiting of my options in the 
future to cut a 3/8ths groove. It is far easier to run 3/8ths on a 1/2 inch 
groove than 1/2 inch on a 3/8ths groom. The original sheaves were v-grooves and 
would accommodate anything from 1/4 inch wire rope up to 1/2 or even 9/16ths 
line.  And we haven't even talked about the added thickness of a core to core 
eye splice.


Anybody want to share their thoughts? 


Thanks,


Josh Muckley

S/V Sea Hawk

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD

 



•••

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Re: Stus-List Tell me about the 35 MKIII-CB

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Sean,

 

The 35-3 does tend to be a tender boat, at least until you heel it to 15 
degrees.  Once the initial heel is over, the boat stiffens up, but I’m always 
the first one to reef when I’m racing.

 

I have the deep keel (6’ 5” draft).  I can see definite advantages to the c/b 
version.  I wouldn’t attempt the ICW with my draft…something I’ve thought about 
doing several times.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA



 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Sean 
Richardson via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2018 13:37
To: CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Sean Richardson <sean.richard...@gmail.com>
Subject: Stus-List Tell me about the 35 MKIII-CB

 

Calling on the collective C brain trust!

 

I’m giving serious consideration to a 35 MKIII CB and would appreciate any 
advice on what to look out for with the MKIII in general as well specifics of 
the center board version if anyone has any.

 

The boat is single owner freshwater and by all accounts so far appears to be in 
very good condition. She checks off many of the requirement boxes for our next 
boat but I’m a little torn on the CB with main concerns being how it effects 
performance/stability as well as required maintenance.

 

I’ve heard the center board version is quite tender. We eventually plan to sail 
out the St. Lawrence to the Maritimes one summer, park the boat, then return 
the following season to continue on down the US East coast (ICW) to Florida 
then on to the Bahamas. The board up shallow draft will be good for the ICW and 
Bahamas portion but how would this boat fare in the more challenging conditions 
of the St Lawrence and Maritimes?

 

My other concern is access to the centerboard area for maintenance.  I would 
assume the slot and pivot area will require frequent attention to clean marine 
growth and avoid jamming the board in either the up or down position. And how 
difficult would it be if one had to replace the SS lifting strop with the boat 
in the water?

 

The more I think about the center board the more troubles I see down the road.

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Re: Stus-List Prop for 37/40+

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Daryl,

 

It’s not as simple as adding another blade.  There is much more to it.  You 
have to evaluate the total blade area as well.  Ultimately, a professional 
recommendation and the experiences of the listers here would be your best 
resources.

 

It you can’t swing a bigger prop, sometimes increasing the pitch will work.  A 
9” pitch isn’t very aggressive.  More pitch = more power…until you either run 
out of horsepower or start cavitating the blades.  I’m sure a poll of our 
listers would yield several different prop sizes/pitches.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA



 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Daryl 
McKelvie via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2018 09:56
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Daryl McKelvie <darylmckel...@gmail.com>
Subject: Stus-List Prop for 37/40+

 

Hi, saw a similar post, I'm going through the same thing. 1989 C 37/40+, 
current prop Martec 2 blade fixed 15x9x1 1/8, always thought I was a bit too 
small (meaning needing one more blade), is it wrong to assume I just need the 
same size just one more blade? What do other 37/40 owners have? Best cheapest 
place to order a new one? I'm waiting back on 3 quotes, 2 places in Florida, 
Deep Blue yachts and General prop and Delta props in Ohio. I may be going to 
Florida at beginning of March anyway for a week so was thinking I could order 
it soon so it would be done and bring it back saving the taxes and shipping 
since we can claim up to 800 when coming back after 48 hours or more, the 
prices I've seen on their sites for something similar just one more blade, are 
485-493 US, only want fixed bladed prop.

Thanx for any advice.

 

Daryl McKelvie 

Sarnia Ontario 

SV Skelly

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Re: Stus-List Propeller for CnC 99

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Sergey,

 

What brand of propeller do you have now and what are its dimensions?  That
would help a lot.  Personally, I prefer the 2 blade folding propeller for
its low drag, as racing is my primary activity.  I have a Martec Elliptical
prop, which I have been very happy with.  Performance in reverse is not the
best, but once you get used to it, it's not an issue.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III "Midnight Mistress"

Hampton VA



 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Sergey
Klyushin via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, January 12, 2018 15:52
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Sergey Klyushin <sergey.klyus...@gmail.com>
Subject: Stus-List Propeller for CnC 99

 

Hello

Could somebody recommend me store(s)/marina(s)/dealer(s)/WEB site(s) where
to buy new or used propeller (better close to Toronto, but I believe
propeller can be shipped as well)?

I am looking to replace my old 2-bladed folding propeller for C 99 2005.

My Engine: Yanmar 3YM20 3-cylinder Diesel 

Gear box / transmission: SD20 - YM1 sail-drive 

 

We use yacht for racing and for cruising. Is 2-bladed folding the best
choice?

Is it good time to buy at Toronto boat show or prices for propellers are the
same?

 

I am still new in sailing world and I would really appreciate your help. 

 

Thanks in advance,

Sergey

Proud owner of C 99 2005

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Re: Stus-List Coin under the mast

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

I’d suggest a Bitcoin.  It might turn out to be worth more than the boat 
someday.   Or not…

 

Jake

 

C 35 Mk-III

“Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick G 
Street via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 2, 2018 14:54
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Frederick G Street 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Coin under the mast

 

Agreed — when I pulled the mast for a rewire a couple of years ago, I went on 
eBay and found a Canadian silver dollar the same year as my boat and stuck that 
down on the step with a dab of silicone.

 

— Fred


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(





 

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Re: Stus-List Split in keel.

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Brien,

 

The keel stub extends roughly 4-6” from the hull down at the aft end.  I can’t 
tell from the picture if you damage is to the glass or the lead portion of the 
keel.  Either way, the suggested methods of sealing it with epoxy will work.  
Some glass and fairing will make the repair blend into the keel better too.  I 
have pictures of my 35-3 without the keel attached, if you are interested.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA



 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Brien Sadler 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, November 28, 2017 11:57
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Brien Sadler <brien.sad...@gmail.com>
Subject: Stus-List Split in keel.

 

I recently discovered this split in the trailing edge of my keel (photo 
provided via google drive link below). It looks as though  the split has 
exposed the lead of the keel. The rest of the keel looks fine. No evidence of 
any water intrusion of any kind in the keel to stub joint. No C smile at all. 
Has anyone seen anything like this or had to make this repair on their boat. 
This is my first season with her and I'd rather not get into a super expensive 
keel repair if I don't have to. My thoughts were inject with epoxy, cover with 
glass mat, sand, fair, and repaint. Any thoughts or advice would be greatly 
appreciated.

 

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BzW7COeyzYvZRTY5VFNtQWRlLUgtUnFianBxUmpOQXYtYThV

 

Brien Sadler

1987 C 35-3

Norwich, CT

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Re: Stus-List Fixing leaky portlights

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Scott,

 

I've done the portlights on my boat.twice, both time with Plexus.  I am
happy with the results, but the VHB route seems to work well also.  I might
give that a try next time.

 

In the meantime, removing the old portlights can be done with a hammer and a
thin putty knife.  The putty knife will help separate the portlight from the
opening.  The hammer will provide some persuasion.  Be careful, as any dings
and dents will need to get filled with epoxy later.  Even though the old
portlights may not come out in one piece, they can be taped together to form
a pattern for the new ones.

 

Plexus is rock hard at most temperatures.  Warming it with a heat gun may
help the process, if ambient temperatures aren't that high.

 

I went with a dark, smoke tint.  More modern than the original bronze color.
It also hides the adhesive better.  I have the Plexus caulk gun that I can
loan you, if you want to go that route.  Let me know.

 

Cheers,

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III "Midnight Mistress"

Hampton VA



 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Scott
Baker via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2017 17:00
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Scott Baker <sc...@anglersportgroup.com>
Subject: Stus-List Fixing leaky portlights

 

Hi All,

I am still really new in this group and I've not really figured out how to
search through the archives to find the advice I need.

I know this topic has probably been exhausted on here, but I need to replace
my portlights on my 1987 35MKIII. 

Some background and my questions:

~My boat has 2 windows on each side, but they still have a slight curvature
in them. 

~I've watched Andy's Youtube Video where he uses VHB (Very High Bond) Tape
from 3M to install similar portlights. (although no curvature)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MQyjxVUskd8
<https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MQyjxVUskd8=2=PLV97GZkHhpHMFb660
AAGO4PuRKJPmHxDS> =2=PLV97GZkHhpHMFb660AAGO4PuRKJPmHxDS

~I like Andy's install method but obviously I'm worried about the curvature
issue. Can I induce curve into the windows before I mount them? If I brace
them in place I fear they will pop back "flat" again later? Solutions?

~I'm afraid of using screws or through bolts in the mounting proceedures
because of the expansion issues etc. Is this a stupid fear?

~I've done enough scoping around to learn that everyone seems to have a
different opinion of what the best material is to make new windows out of.
Andy points us towards a specific material and source on his website.

~I'd like my new windows to be tinted, it seems this would make it hard to
see in and also hide the flange in case it gets mucked up. Yes?

~I cannot find a good explanation of the best method to remove the old
windows. 

~I think many use the old windows as templates to make the new ones. so
therefore they must be removing them intact? Has anyone mastered the removal
of these windows without hacking everything up?

~My boat is on the hard and inside a huge shed now in Upstate, NY. Do I need
to wait until it's really warm to do this? Maybe I work on removing the old
windows and cleaning up the mounting areas and put new ones in in the
spring?

Can someone point me in the right direction to find all the answers?

If there is a trick to locating past chats about all this on the C site,
I'd love to be edumacated!

Sorry for beating this dead horse.

~Scott Baker

 

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Re: Stus-List B Impeller

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Scott,

 

I might have a new, spare one aboard my boat.  Contact me off list and I
will let you know.

 

Jake

 

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III "Midnight Mistress"

Hampton VA



 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Scott
Baker via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, November 8, 2017 14:13
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Scott Baker <sc...@anglersportgroup.com>
Subject: Stus-List B Impeller

 

Thanks for the tip Dennis, but no joy. :(

I'm still seeking the replacement part B number 110-10-B21

Which looks like this:



It seems that they come up for sale on Ebay from time to time for the nice
price of $150.. 

But, I'll pay it at this point. But there are none now.

Anyone else have any ideas?

~Scott

Top Priority (Soon to be Surrender)

1987 - C 35 MK III

 

 

 

Go here:   <http://www.airmartechnology.com/xref.html>
http://www.airmartechnology.com/xref.html

 

Sort the "OEM" column and look for Brooks & Gatehouse.  Perhaps you can find
it.

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

On Tue, Nov 7, 2017 at 11:47 AM, Scott Baker via CnC-List <
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Howdy crew,

I have a B Hercules 390 Package on our boat from 1987.

The horizontal boat speed impeller has given it up (repaired manually many
times) once and for all.

Does anyone know a source or a way to find a replacement for it?

I know I can get my BS from GPS etc. but all the wonderful calculated data
like true wind dir. Etc. need that boat speed number.

Help!?

Scott Baker

Top Priority (Soon to be Surrender)

1987 - C 35 MK III

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Re: Stus-List Asym sheet size

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Steve,

Those sizes sound appropriate for a 35.

Jake

Jake Brodersen
C 35 Mk-III "Midnight Mistress"
Hampton VA





-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of steve
dewar via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, November 2, 2017 12:16
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: steve dewar <stevede...@me.com>
Subject: Stus-List Asym sheet size

I just picked up an asym spinnaker for my C 35. I want to get two sets of
sheets. One will be 3/8 diameter for normal use and the other will be 1/4
diameter for light air. Do these sizes sound right?
Thanks Steve 

Sent from my iPad
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Re: Stus-List baby stay on 1982 34

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Graham,

 

We release the baby stay any time the #1 is in use.   The rest of the time it 
is tensioned, even in the slip.  When the #3 is up, it tacks cleanly through 
the foretriangle.  I have seen the mast pump before and know the benefits of 
the baby stay.  It’s seldom used on the Chesapeake, but it definitely serves a 
purpose.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA



 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of G Collins 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, October 25, 2017 21:22
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: G Collins <cnclistforw...@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List baby stay on 1982 34

 

I find the baby stay question an interesting one.  We've got the adjustable 
babystay, but don't race, so usually it gets tensioned at the beginning of the 
season and then at some random time during the summer someone kicks the clutch, 
and eventually I discover that it isn't tensioned.  

Would it be worth a survey?  I'm curious how many owners actually have and 
actively use the baby stay.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C 35-III #11

 

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Re: Stus-List Baby Stay Hull Stud

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Dave,

 

I’ve had my keel off and the baby stay stud is definitely not screwed into the 
keel, at least on a 35-3.  As far forward as the baby stay attachment is, it 
would miss the keel entirely.  I see a substantial backing plate of some sort 
that is bonded into the centerline of the hull.  This will most likely have to 
be ground out and replaced.  The repair looks pretty straight forward.  The 
work will be hidden by the cabin sole, so cosmetics aren’t an issue here.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA



 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave Godwin 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, October 25, 2017 08:26
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dave Godwin <dave.god...@me.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Baby Stay Hull Stud

 

I have the same issue on “Ronin”. 

 

I’m 99.99% certain that the stud is not attached to the keel. It certainly 
isn’t on my model when I removed my keel. Were it attached to the keel there 
would be a series of list posts advising owners on how to unhook it. In my 20 
years on this list I haven’t seen any advice on that. 

 

I think that you are going to find that like my stud, it was simply glassed 
into the stringer. Easy to do in the build process but obviously not 
advantageous over time, especially in a damp environment and constant cyclic 
loads. 

 

I have a set of hand drawings from a rig designer buddy on building a “U” 
shaped stainless steel bridge that can be simply attached to either side of the 
stringer with plain old S.S. lag bolts. This is most likely the way that I will 
go when I put the mast back in the boat.

 

Good luck with your repair.

 

Best,

 

Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay

Ronin’s Overdue Refit <http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/> 

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Re: Stus-List Fixed port replacement sources...

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Dave,

 

Greg and I have both used Kay Gee Plastics.  They are small time, but do great 
work.  Prices are not too bad either.  They are located in Norfolk.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA



 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave Godwin 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, October 15, 2017 19:06
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dave Godwin <dave.god...@me.com>
Subject: Stus-List Fixed port replacement sources...

 

Gang,

 

I’m replacing the fixed ports on our 37’. I was wondering if there were 
recommendations for a shop in the Tidewater/Newport News/Hampton/Norfolk area. 

 

I used Annapolis Maritime Plastics the last time I replaced them but it’s a bit 
of drive from my current locations.

 

Best,

Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay

Ronin’s Overdue Refit <http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/> 

 

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Re: Stus-List LED Interior Flourescent replacements

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Pete,

 

I replaced my fluorescents with LEDs also.  I picked some up cheap from eBay 
and they have worked well for 4-5 years.  They don’t get a lot of use, but 
certainly shine bright when needed.  I removed the entire fixture and attached 
the LED strips to a piece of pine.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA



 

 

Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2017 15:35:41 +
From: kelly petew <kellype...@msn.com <mailto:kellype...@msn.com> >
To: cnc-list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Subject: Stus-List LED Interior Flourescent replacements
Message-ID:
   
<blupr11mb0498135732562c4b40cdd5a6c1...@blupr11mb0498.namprd11.prod.outlook.com 
<mailto:blupr11mb0498135732562c4b40cdd5a6c1...@blupr11mb0498.namprd11.prod.outlook.com>
 >
   
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Anyone have any experiences to share with replacing your original fluorescents 
with LEDs?

Is it simply 'plug & play', i.e., old tube out, new LED tube into the existing 
fixture??


Thanks!!


Pete W.


Siren Song

'91 C 30-2

Deltaville, Va.
-

 

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Re: Stus-List C 35-3 Rudder Drain Holes

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Neil,

 

I drilled a hole about two inches from the bottom or the rudder in the 
starboard side.  I have threaded a machine screw into it.  I pull it out at 
each haul out.  I seal it with caulk before launching.  Works great.  I don’t 
see much water at all.  Sometimes just a few rusty drips over a period of a few 
days.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA



 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of schiller via 
CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, October 7, 2017 15:56
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: schiller <schil...@bloomingdalecom.net>
Subject: Stus-List C 35-3 Rudder Drain Holes

 

One of the items in our new C 35, Mark III was that there was moisture in the 
rudder and the surveyor suggested drilling drainage holes.  Anyone want to 
suggest the location to drill?  We hauled out last night and I am going up to 
the boat to disconnect batteries on Wednesday.  I assume that the drainage 
holes will be in the lower quadrant of the rudder.  Should they be in the side 
or in the bottom surface (or does it really matter.

I never had to do this on my Redwing 35 so this is new to us.

Neil Schiller
1983 C 35, Mark III, #028
"Grace"
White Lake, Michigan

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Re: Stus-List Spreader boots 1984 C 35-3

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Rick,

 

I bought a big hunk of elk hide at the boat show many years ago.  I make my own 
spreader covers.  So far, I’ve only made one set and they have been on the boat 
for five years and are looking good still.  It doesn’t take a lot of skill, 
just a pattern, a pair of scissors, and a leather punch.  It was actually a fun 
little project.

 

I put mine on when the mast was down, but there’s no reason it couldn’t be done 
with the mast up.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA



 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick Brass 
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, October 7, 2017 22:11
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rick Brass <rickbr...@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Spreader boots 1984 C 35-3

 

Edson elkhide spreader boots are available at West Marine for about $70 per 
pair, which is about twice the price of the Taylor Made nylon boots. The boots 
on my lower spreaders (where there is contact with the headsail) are elk hide. 
The boots on the uppers (which are above the leach of the 135) are nylon.

 

The elk hide boots last forever – or so it seems. The Nylon ones are much more 
durable than the rubber boots you see most commonly.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Painting the headliner

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Yup, that’s the same stuff I used to replace several panels on my boat.  
They’re not very visible, but It’s unmistakably bathroom shower wall material.  


 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA



 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Paul 
Fountain via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, October 3, 2017 09:22
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Paul Fountain <p...@seasource.ca>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Painting the headliner

 

This is what I used on Perception :  
http://www.homedepot.com/p/4-ft-x-8-ft-White-090-FRP-Wall-Board-MFTF12IXA480009600/100389836
 

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Re: Stus-List How long do your zincs last (saltwater, on a dock, plugged in to shore power

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Bruce,

 

That sounds about right.  There are a lot of variables in the equation though.  
I’ve been in the water six months as well and my zinc is probably 70% or less.  
I’m in a brackish river off the Chesapeake.  I usually don’t have to replace 
the zinc during the season.  By the time I haul out it is over 50% gone.

 

Jake

 

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA



 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruce 
Whitmore via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 25, 2017 10:46
To: C List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Bruce Whitmore <bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Stus-List How long do your zincs last (saltwater, on a dock, plugged 
in to shore power

 

Hello all,

 

I just wanted to check in with  you folks.  For those of you who are in 
saltwater, on a dock, and plugged into shore power, how long would you expect 
to see your shaft zinc last?  I get a regular report from our diver, who, after 
about 6 months, indicated that the zinc is down to about 70% of new.

 

Thanks for the input,

 

Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net <mailto:bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net> 

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Re: Stus-List Butyl rubber tape

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Fred,

 

My 86 model used butyl.  I rebedded the inside genoa tracks with more butyl…

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA



 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Fred Hazzard 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2017 20:30
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Fred Hazzard <fshazz...@gmail.com>
Subject: Stus-List Butyl rubber tape

 

Can anyone tell me if C's built in 1986 used butyl rubber tape under various 
tracks and rails.  I have a baby stay track and jib car track  that appear to 
be leaking.

 

Fred Hazzard

S/V Fury

C 44

Portland, Or

 


 
<https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email_source=link_campaign=sig-email_content=webmail_term=icon>
 

Virus-free.  
<https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email_source=link_campaign=sig-email_content=webmail_term=link>
 www.avast.com 

 

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Re: Stus-List Greetings

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Scott,

 

Welcome to the list.  You will find a lot of good advice and quite a few
characters on this list.  The Mk-III owners (and some former owners) are
here to support you if you have any model specific questions.

 

We take C's very seriously here.   Everything else..not so much.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III "Midnight Mistress"

Hampton VA



 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Scott
Baker via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, September 19, 2017 13:43
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Scott Baker <sc...@anglersportgroup.com>
Subject: Stus-List Greetings

 

Hi all,

I've been lurking on the list for a week or so now. My girlfriend and I
bought my parents C 35 Mk III this year on Lake Ontario (Sodus Bay).

We got off to a slow start this year when I found I huge crack in the rudder
(Leading edge from top to 2/3 down to bottom). I know the crack was caused
by frozen water infiltration.

Any ways, the repair I did to the rudder took quite a while and the high
water on the lake did not help either but we finally launched Aug. 25th.
We've been making up for lost time onboard

Since then as we need to be ready to haul back out by Oct. 1st.

I'm preparing a huge list of projects for the boat and I'm sure I'll be
consulting you folks soon enough for your expertise on everything.

I just wanted to come out of the shadows and say hi! I'll try to offer my
experience when I can too. 

I've been sailing about 40 years. I had a Masters captain's license for 10
years. I directed a sailing school for a few years and I've taught over 300
adults how to sail.

I've cruised extensively in the great lakes and Caribbean. And sailed some
off Maine, the Chesapeake, and around Long Beach Ca.

I race and cruise and pretty much everything in between. So, like I said -
"Hi" thanks in advance for all your help!

Regards,

Scott Baker

Fairport, NY

1987 - C 35 Mk III "Top Priority" (Soon to be "Surrender")

 

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Re: Stus-List Transmission position while sailing

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Neil,

 

I keep my transmission in reverse after setting my folding prop.  This holds 
the shaft in place.  I have heard and read that Yanmar does not recommend using 
reverse.   Perhaps that only applies to the fixed prop, like Joel mentions.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA



 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of schiller via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 18, 2017 19:15
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: schiller <schil...@bloomingdalecom.net>
Subject: Stus-List Transmission position while sailing

 

OK, gang.  I know this has been discussed before but help me out.  With the 
Universal M-25XPB in Corsair, the manuals said to shift he transmission into 
reverse after shut down while sailing.  Withe the new Yanmar in Grace (C 35, 
Mark III), what is the prevailing wisdom as to transmission selection after 
shutdown while sailing.  I instinctively put the transmission in reverse but 
can not find any Yanmar documentation as to what they recommend.

Neil Schiller
1983 C 35, Mark III, #028
"Grace"
White Lake, Michigan
Scheduled for haulout 6 October

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Re: Stus-List Mast paint and masthead

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Tony,

 

My 1986 mast appears to be a one part enamel of some kind.  I've used
Brightside enamel for touch ups.

 

My masthead sheaves are accessed by taking the cap off the top of the mast.
The cap is held on with a couple of Philips screws (on the top).  The axles
are captive in a recess in the mast.  If the halyards are out, you can just
lift up the axle.  You can remove the cap with the mast up.  I've done it
from a bosun's chair.  You need to have a line to hold the halyards up while
you remove the axles.  Note:  if you are using the genoa halyard, only the
main axle will be able to be removed.  I went up on the main halyard to
service the genoa halyard sheaves.  Zephyr Works makes some nice sheaves to
your specs.  Garhauer is also another good supplier.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III "Midnight Mistress"

Hampton VA



 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tony
Wroblewski via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2017 08:11
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Tony Wroblewski <triump...@hotmail.com>
Subject: Stus-List Mast paint and masthead

 

Does anyone on the list know whether the C masts in 1986 were painted with
a one component (enamel) or two component (urethane) paint. Ours is a C 41
with a Cinkel mast. 

 

On another topic, the masthead sheeves need to be replaced. Does anyone have
a diagram or info on how to replace. There is no access on the sides of the
mast for the axle and the mast is up so I can't see whats on the top plate.

 

Tony W.

Triumph 1986 C 41

Holland, Mi.

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Re: Stus-List Grace is home

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Neil,

 

I don’t use the storage area for much of anything.  It could be used to warm 
sandwiches or store pizza.  Sail ties are probably the best use for it.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA



 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of schiller via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 4, 2017 17:05
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: schiller <schil...@bloomingdalecom.net>
Subject: Stus-List Grace is home

 

We moved the new (to us) 1983 C 35, Mark III from Muskegon, Michigan to 
Whitehall, Michigan Saturday.  Nice day for the move, started out sunny and 
mild with fairly light winds out of the West with a fairly light chop.  We 
sailed on a close reach up the lake.  The winds picked up a little and most of 
the trip was in 5-8 kt (true) winds out of the WNW with about 1 foot waves.  
One sail set and off we went.  She sailed well and we made it with no problems.
Spent Sunday cleaning and straightening things out.  The boat had not had the 
decks washed in at least 5 years.  We went through a full spray bottle of 
fairly concentrated Simple Green with a scrub brush (the deck brush was 
useless).  She looks nice now.
We do have a portlight leak on the port side.  We will only be in the water for 
another 4 weeks so I have tried to seal it for that time and plan on portlight 
replacement in the spring.  We will see if I can get it sealed for the fall.  
We do have a winter cover so it shouldn't be a problem for the winter.
One question for the Mark III crowd.  What do you use the locker just forward 
of the mainsheet track for?  It looks like it is only deep enough for sail 
ties.  What else do others use if for?

Neil Schiller
1983 C 35, Mark III, #028
"Grace"
White Lake, Michigan

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Re: Stus-List Closed the deal

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Neil,

 

Congratulations.  You’ll love the Mk-III.  There are a lot of Mk-III owners 
(and former owners) on this list.  We can help with a lot of model-specific 
tasks/problems.

 

Jake

 

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA



 

 

 

On Fri, Sep 1, 2017 at 9:22 PM schiller via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

We are the proud new owners of a 1983 C 35, Mark III (ZCC35028M83H).  Closed 
the deal on it and took position this afternoon.  We will move it up from 
Muskegon to White Lake tomorrow, back home to Crosswinds Marina in Whitehall.

We'll have about 4 weeks to familiarize ourselves with her before time to haul 
and store for the winter.  I still need to pick up the cradle and winter cover 
before the end of the month.

If any of the C 35, Mark I owners are interested in a winter cover, please 
let me know.  I had Whitelake Canvas make me a cover last year and now I have 
no Mark I to cover.  This cover goes to the toe rail and is fitted to go around 
the stanchions and shrouds.  I have a picture or two of it if interested.  Make 
me an offer.

Neil Schiller
1983 C 35, Mark III, Hull #28
"Grace"

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-- 

Joel 
301 541 8551

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Re: Stus-List instruments

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Harold,

 

I may have what you need.  I removed a complete B system from my boat two
years ago.  I still have all the pieces.  Contact me off list and we can
discuss exactly what you need.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III "Midnight Mistress"

Hampton VA



 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of patricia
barkley-higginbottom via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, August 5, 2017 13:57
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: patricia barkley-higginbottom <patrici...@cogeco.ca>
Subject: Stus-List instruments

 

Does anyone have a B & G Harrier 6 boat speed and log cockpit instrument
surplus to their needs which I could purchase. I know that this is an old
instrument but for the amount of use it gets on my boat, I would like to
continue with this model. I know that the transducer is OK because the cabin
monitor gives a speed reading.The countdown function still operates on the
cockpit bulkhead. Or are there any suggestions for a transducer compatible
alternative, or at least with a transducer that fits the same thru hull.
Just hoping.

Harold

Celtic Spirit

C & C 35-3

Hamilton, ON. 

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Re: Stus-List 35 MK III

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Richard,

 

I am among one of the many 35-III owners on the list here.  I love mine.  It is 
a bit tender, but sails to its rating and wins a lot of races.  It is 
comfortable to cruise with two, but I’ve also raced with 7 on-board in the 
Annapolis-to-Bermuda Race (on “The Office”, another35-III sistership).

 

The boat is a little tender.  You will be one of the first people to reef, but 
it points well and sails like a C should.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Richard 
Gotthardt via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, July 27, 2017 16:23
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Richard Gotthardt <rlgottha...@gmail.com>
Subject: Stus-List 35 MK III

 

I'm looking for a boat and was wondering if there's a "boats for sale" section 
on cncphotoalbum.com <http://cncphotoalbum.com>  ?

 

Is anyone familiar with this boat, or have any comments based on the scant 
information that's posted?

 

https://muskegon.craigslist.org/boa/d/cc-mk-iii-sailboat/6235586493.html

 

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Re: Stus-List 33-2 music and speakers

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

I have Poly Planar speakers in the cockpit and I’m very happy with them.  I had 
Bose marine speakers, but they eventually succumbed to the elements.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA



 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave S via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, July 3, 2017 07:31
To: C Stus List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Dave S <syerd...@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List 33-2 music and speakers

 

Sorry bout the accidental early send...

 

So, I did replace Windstar's 1980's Blaupunkt car cassette player that came 
with Windstar with a gimmicky but functional Pioneer unit, that has a fancy 
lightshow, a remote and many features that I will probably never use.  (the 
bluetooth input is great)   I did not even look at the 80's vintage bracket 
mounted micro bookshelf speakers.   

 

The sound quality overall is pretty poor and I suspect that the speakers are 
tired, and may be suffering from age.  

 

Any suggestions as to efficient, compact speakers that can be bracket mounted 
in a boat?

 

Thanks all.

 

Dave

 

 

 

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Fixing V-berth port hatch leaks

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Jeremy,

 

I close up the gaping hole with a piece of plywood that is cut to fit.  Drill 
the holes to match the hatch (every other one) and it will screw down with the 
original screws.  You can even sail with it if you seal it well.  It does limit 
exits from the cabin, which can be a safety concern both at the dock and on the 
water.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA



 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jeremy Ralph 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, June 13, 2017 13:19
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jeremy Ralph <jeremy.ra...@gmail.com>; dbjons...@shaw.ca
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fixing V-berth port hatch leaks

 

Thanks Joel, Matthew, and Don!

 

Rebuild/rebedding that hatch lens now on my increasingly growing list of 
projects.  

 

I'm curious, when removing port lenses for such a project, what do people do to 
keep things sealed up?  I may redo settee windows at the same time.  I see some 
boats with plastic sheeting and duct tape while under construction...  

 

Thanks,

  Jeremy

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Re: Stus-List Replacing Teak and Holly Flooring

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Jonathan,

I've removed all of my floor boards and never touched the pole in the
galley.  The port side pole attached to the partial bulkhead and hooks into
the railing in the galley.  I'll have to look closer next time.

Jake


Jake Brodersen
C 35 Mk-III "Midnight Mistress"
Hampton VA




-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Indigo
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, May 28, 2017 09:31
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Indigo <ind...@thethomsons.us>
Subject: Stus-List Replacing Teak and Holly Flooring

The teak and holly flooring on Indigo desperately needs replacing. 

I have 1 question for 35mk3 owners and one for all listers!

1. Can the flooring be replaced without removing vertical grab bar by the
galley. Access to the upper end of this grab bar is under the companionway
hatch cover?   

2. What alternatives to teak and holly would listers recommend. I am not
sure investment in the real stuff is warranted for a nearly 35 yr old boat. 

--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT


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Re: Stus-List Honey - was RE: A C 39 that has not been trashed! Was C 39 trash project

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Doug,

 

A boat is very much like a mistress.

 

I buy her a place to stay (a slip).

I buy her stuff I don’t tell my wife about (electronics and sailing goodies).

I sneak away to spend time with her.

I tell her she’s special and there is no one like her.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA



 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of svpegasus38 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, May 25, 2017 13:05
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: svpegasus38 <svpegasu...@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Honey - was RE: A C 39 that has not been trashed! Was 
C 39 trash project

 

Isn't a boat like a mistress?  

 

 

 

Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device

Doug Mountjoy 

POYC 

Pegasus 

Lf38 

Significant Other 

LF39. 

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Re: Stus-List Loos RT-10 rod tension gauge

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

I picked mine up from another lister at a hefty discount.  Score!

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA



 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jim Reinardy 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, May 18, 2017 10:56
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: firewa...@reinardy.us
Subject: Stus-List Loos RT-10 rod tension gauge

 

Curious about those who have an RT-10 gauge, did you find a deal?  I see prices 
on those at about $500, which I am having trouble justifying.

 

Jim Reinardy

C 30-2 "Firewater"

Milwaukee, WI

 

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Re: Stus-List Baby stay vs Cunningham?

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Dave,

The controls are not really redundant.  The cunningham does a much better
job of flattening the main.  The cunningham tightens the luff in the bottom
third of the sail very effectively.

The babystay can shape the main a little, but it mainly used to prevent the
mast from pumping.  The thick mast section on most C is really difficult
to bend.  Preventing the mast from pumping (or inverting) is much more
important.  That said, we only use ours in heavy air or when the waves are
large.  The #3 tacks around it pretty easy, the #1... not so much.

Jake

Jake Brodersen
C 35 Mk-III "Midnight Mistress"
Hampton VA





-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave S
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, May 17, 2017 21:43
To: C Stus List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Dave S <syerd...@gmail.com>
Subject: Stus-List Baby stay vs Cunningham?

Both depower the main  Does the adjustable baby stay (mast bend) make
the Cunningham (luff tension) redundant?
I have an adjustable baby stay, is adding a Cunningham a waste of time?

Thanks , Dave
33-2

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List 33-2 secondary winches and t-track - worth considering?

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Dave,

 

We use sheets and twings on our spinnaker.  No guys needed.  This way we can 
end-for-end the pole pretty easy, at least in moderate air.  The twings go to a 
small block on the rail near the shrouds.  The sheets go to blocks on the stern 
quarters.

 

In heavy air sheets and guys are preferred.  The guys sheet to a block on each 
side deck, a couple feet aft of the shrouds.  Dip pole gybes are safer too.  
Fortunately, when the wind is high, we just run double headsails.  It keeps the 
boat under much better control and we still go fast.

 

I use the inboard tracks for the #1 genoa, but only in air up to 10 kts TWS.  
We point much better with the inboard sheeting.  They get used a lot on the 
Chesapeake in the summer.

 

Jake

 

From: Dave S [mailto:syerd...@gmail.com] 
Sent: Monday, May 8, 2017 21:23
To: C Stus List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>; Jake Brodersen <captain_j...@cox.net>
Subject: re:Stus-List 33-2 secondary winches and t-track - worth considering?

 




Thanks Jake.  The 35iii is a very close bigger sister.


OK, so you lead your jib straight to the winch from  the genoa track, and it 
works..  check.


Should have thought the spinnaker through - I've only ever flown mine with 
sheets, no guys, and only in light air.  I can see that sailing with the spin 
"in anger" with sheets and guys you would want both winches.  Seems kinda 
obvious now  I am assuming the 4 lines would run though 4 snatch blocks 
clipped to the rail.

 

Do you use the short inboard tracks as well?  IF so, for what?  

 

Dave Syer, 33-2

 

 

 

 

  <https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0/images/cleardot.gif> 

  <https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0/images/cleardot.gif> 

  <https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0/images/cleardot.gif> 

 

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Re: Stus-List 33-2 secondary winches and t-track - worth considering?

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Dave,

I find the secondary winches very useful when singlehanding.  They are well
within my reach.  They are essential when running a spinnaker though.  I got
rid of the turning blocks on the quarters.  Yes, they probably helped make a
fair lead to the winch, but the extra friction was not worth it.  I got rid
of them and have never missed them.

Jake


Jake Brodersen
C 35 Mk-III "Midnight Mistress"
Hampton VA




-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave via
CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, May 6, 2017 19:44
To: C Stus List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: syerd...@gmail.com
Subject: Stus-List 33-2 secondary winches and t-track - worth considering?

The 33-2 deck has provision for secondary jib sheet winches and sheet lead
blocks on a short length of coaming-mounted t-track.   Windstar does not
have either installed.

How useful are the secondary winches and the coaming-mounted sheet leads?

Thanks!   Dave.

Sent from my iPad
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Re: Stus-List Prop question

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Sometimes the application of some heat helps the prop let go.  Put a wet rag
over the cutlass bearing, otherwise it will get roasted.  A small propane
torch usually doesn't generate enough heat, but is worth a try.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III "Midnight Mistress"

Hampton VA



 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Matthew
L. Wolford via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, May 7, 2017 14:08
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Matthew L. Wolford <wolf...@erie.net>
Subject: Stus-List Prop question

 

Listers:

 

I assume this has been covered before, but what is the best way to
remove a 40-year old Martec folding prop from the shaft?  The blades are off
and the inside of the hub exposed, but the hub is not budging.  Please
advise.  Thanks.

 

 

Matthew L. Wolford 
638 West Sixth Street 
Erie, PA 16507 
(814) 459-9600 (Office) 
(814) 459-9661 (Fax) 
(814) 392-5599 (Cell) 

The information contained in this e-mail note and any attachments is
intended for the personal and confidential use of the designated
recipient(s). This communication may be an attorney-client communication,
attorney work product, or otherwise privileged, confidential, or protected
from disclosure under applicable law. If you are not the intended recipient
or an authorized agent, you are hereby notified that you have received this
communication in error, and that any review, dissemination, distribution,
copying of, use of, or reliance upon this communication is prohibited. If
you believe this communication was sent to you in error, do not read it.
Please reply to the sender that you received the note in error and delete
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Re: Stus-List Prop "treatment"

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

David,

 

I don't use any treatment on my prop either.  I clean the boat about every
two weeks.  The prop has stayed clean so far this year, but I know that
barnacles will be attaching to it soon.  They do every year.  I keep after
them with a putty knife and scotchbrite pad.  As long as I keep it clean,
the work is easy.  If I wait more than three weeks, I have major barnacle
growth.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III "Midnight Mistress"

Hampton VA



 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David
Knecht via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, May 7, 2017 15:29
To: CnC CnC discussion list <CnC-List@cnc-list.com>
Cc: David Knecht <davidakne...@gmail.com>
Subject: Stus-List Prop "treatment"

 

I have struggled with how to deal with my prop and have tried a number of
suggested solutions over the years. None have been totally satisfying in
terms of keeping it clean for the season. Propspeed last year was the best
so far.  I was sanding yesterday and the guy with the boat next to me looks
over and says he has some advice.  He said that many years ago, he sanded
his prop clean and put the boat in the water with no further treatment.  He
has not touched it in the years since and claims he never gets barnacles.
The prop now has a very rough texture to the metal and looks nothing like
brass.  It looks like it is coated with something and I have never seen
anything like it.  Anyone know what is going on?  Dave

 

 

Aries

1990 C 34+

New London, CT




 

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Re: Stus-List Sail advice for 35

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Ron,

 

You are so right.  I have had several occasions when keeping the #1 genoa up, 
with a reef in the main, resulted in a very balanced (and under control) boat.

 

Jake

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ronald B. 
Frerker via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 2, 2017 12:24
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ronald B. Frerker 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sail advice for 35

 

I remember sailing a 35-2 in heavy air with jib and main and had to have more 
than 6deg of rudder angle to keep it going.  Seemed like we needed to take a 
tuck in the main and use a larger jib for better balance.

The old rule was "keep the power up front."

Ron

Wild Cheri

C 30-1

STL

 

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Re: Stus-List Sail advice for C in general

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Alan,

 

I too suffer from excessive roach.  My light air tactic is to stand on the 
helmsman seat and twang (a technical term) the backstay to release the top 
batten.  It works…most of the time.  The lighter the air, the less backstay 
tension I have.

 

Jake

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of ALAN BERGEN 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, May 1, 2017 15:49
To: C 
Cc: ALAN BERGEN 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sail advice for C in general

 

Speed isn't the only thing that matters.  Compare your VMG with two different 
size sails.  Even if you were to sail slower with a smaller sail, but point 
higher, you could get around the course faster with a better handicap.  You can 
sail with jib alone, but with much less power.  When you tack with jib alone, 
the wind tends to cause you to tack past your intended course, until you have 
enough speed to come back to your course.  My main has a large roach, and in 
light air, the upper batten catches on the backstay.  When that happens, I have 
to let the traveler go, ease the mainsheet or ease the halyard, until the 
batten frees itself.

Alan

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Re: Stus-List Sail advice for 35

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Alan,

 

It seems that the smaller your headsail, the faster you go.  Pretty soon you 
can race bare-headed and be at the front of the fleet.

 

Seriously, where do you sheet your 105 to?  I am looking to install an inboard 
track for my #3 to the cabin top, just outboard of the cabin top rails.  Right 
now I have genoa track that runs all the way to the shrouds, but the further 
forward the car goes, the worse the sheeting angle.  An inboard track would 
help my pointing immensely.  

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA



 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of ALAN BERGEN 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, May 1, 2017 14:32
To: C <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: ALAN BERGEN <trya...@alumni.usc.edu>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sail advice for 35

 

Joe:

When I first got my boat, I raced with a 155.  It kept back-winding the main, 
so I tried using a 135  with better results.  I gained six seconds in handicap, 
and there was no noticeable reduction in speed.  Then I tried racing with a 
105.  I gained another three seconds; I sail just as fast, and I point five 
degrees higher.  In fact, I point higher than everyone else in my fleet, and I 
get to the windward mark sooner than the rest of the fleet.  The crew can tack 
faster, and in light air, the sail won't flap around like larger sails will.

Alan Bergen

35 Mk III Thirsty

Rose City YC

Portland, OR

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Re: Stus-List Keel Bolt Overtightening?

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Gene,

 

The original washers on my boat were not very substantial.  They did flex and 
bend.   After my keel R, I have new washers that are much more substantial 
now.  Actually, my new washers also have backing plates that spread the load 
out much better.   I highly recommend them.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA



 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Eugene Fodor 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, April 20, 2017 14:35
To: cnc-list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Eugene Fodor <efo...@gmail.com>
Subject: Stus-List Keel Bolt Overtightening?

 

Anyone have an idea of signs to look for to make sure I'm not overtightening my 
keel bolts on my C 29-2? I tightened them last weekend using a torque wrench 
and went to about 205 ft lbs for the 1 in bold and about 70 ft lbs for the the 
1/2 inch; both of which are below the values listed on the torque specs. I 
noticed that the washers were becoming deformed (is that normal?). I don't want 
to overtighten and crush the hull or deform the keel.

 

Thanks,

 

Gene

"Hawk" 

C 29-2

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Re: Stus-List Icebox conversion...

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Chuck,

 

I did the Adler-Barbour conversion on my ice box a long time ago.  It is air 
cooled and works well here in Virginia.  It was not a difficult project.  
Tedious, but not difficult.  The compressor and coils reside in the port 
lazarette on a small shelf that I glassed to the hull.  I can send you pics 
off-list, if necessary.  I lost very little space in the lazarette.

 

It was one of the best improvements to my boat that I have made.   Cold beer, 
all the time!

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA



 

 

I recall discussion about this, but could not find the thread.  

 

I'm looking into icebox conversion for spring, and wondering if anyone has 
recommendations?  Not sure the advantages with water-cooled v. fan cooled, 
except the heat buildup in the locker with compressor heated air.  Other 
considerations?  Reliability? The obvious loss of valuable space in box for 
cold plate...etc?  single v. dual power? (12 volt or 12/120 volt).  Would 
really appreciate comment, and/or link to previous topic discussion.  Thanks...


 

 

Chuck Saur

C 35-3 (1985)

Morning Sky

 

(517)-490-5926

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Re: Stus-List Engine compartment insulation?

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

I also recommend the Sound Down insulation.  It works well and is fairly easy 
to install.

 

Jake

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd Schillay 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, April 6, 2017 10:50
To: C List 
Cc: Edd Schillay 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Engine compartment insulation?

 

Bruce,

 

Though I have yet to use it, I’ve heard great stories about this stuff: 
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|311|2349105 
 
=3018333 

 

Aside from that, the best way to insulate the engine and reduce engine noise is 
get the jib out. 


All the best,

 

Edd

 

 

Edd M. Schillay

Starship Enterprise

C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

City Island, NY 

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log  

 

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Re: Stus-List Oil Pressure Gauge Install + Explanation of British Pipe Threads

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Charlie,

 

For your benefit and the rest of the list, I have dug into the dusty archives 
of several British car companies and have learned a lot about British pipe 
threads.

 

B = British

S = Standard

P = Pipe

P = Parallel  (Yes, P can mean more than one thing…)

T = Tapered

 

BSPT threads are found on the Yanmar block.  The oil pressure sensor fitting is 
a 1/8” tapered fitting, designated BSPT.  These are pipe threads where 
pressure-tightness is made through the mating of two threads together. They 
always use a taper male thread, but can have either parallel or taper female 
threads. International standards require all female threads to be parallel.  
(This fact has helped my search quite a bit).

 

BSPP threads are parallel pipe threads used where a pressure-tight joint is 
achieved by the compression of a soft material (such as an O-ring seal or a 
washer) between the end face of the male thread and a socket or nipple face, 
with the tightening of a backnut.  The last thing you want are your nipples to 
leak!

 

So now I have found an elbow that will work in my situation.  This item should 
fit the bill and keep my sensor clear of the alternator belt.  
https://www.amazon.com/Elbow-Degree-Fitting-Female-Thread/dp/B01M4P10U2/ref=sr_1_16?s=hi
 
<https://www.amazon.com/Elbow-Degree-Fitting-Female-Thread/dp/B01M4P10U2/ref=sr_1_16?s=hi=UTF8=1491387086=1-16=BSP+elbow>
 =UTF8=1491387086=1-16=BSP+elbow

 

So now, whether you’re working on a Japanese engine or a British sports car, 
you know the difference between BSPT and BSPP threads.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Charlie 
Nelson via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, April 5, 2017 08:57
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: cenel...@aol.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Oil Pressure Gauge Install

 

Geez--this list is starting to sound like a gathering of English sports car 
buffs (I used to house a classic MG and a Aston-Martin in my large garage with 
only a single wide door--the door was not a problem since the owners spent so 
much time fixing their cars, they hardly ever left the garage!). 

 

Anyhow, for the benefit of the other ignorant list members, can one of you 
explain the acronyms BSPT, BSPP, etc.? It must have something to do with the 
British 'heh'?

 

Charlie Nelson

Water Phantom

C 36 XL/kcb

cenel...@aol.com <mailto:cenel...@aol.com> 

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Re: Stus-List Oil Pressure Gauge Install

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Josh,

 

I thought I needed a BSPT street elbow.  The link you sent is for a BSPP street 
elbow.  The sender is BSPT (tapered threads).  I know the thread pitch is the 
same, but will the tapered threads seal in a (BSPP) parallel fitting?

 

I’ve also seen BSP elbows.  Not sure if they are tapered or parallel.  I need 
to research British pipe more, I guess.  I did find this one, that looks pretty 
close.  For $7 it’s probably worth a try.

https://www.amazon.com/Elbow-Degree-Fitting-Female-Thread/dp/B01M4P10U2/ref=sr_1_16?s=hi
 

 =UTF8=1491387086=1-16=BSP+elbow

 

I could just go with the VDO sender.  It has a nice pressure gauge and a red 
low pressure light, but no buzzer.  The buzzer is really needed since I don’t 
have eyes on the instrument panel all the time.

 

Jake

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, April 4, 2017 23:39
To: C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Oil Pressure Gauge Install

 

Here's a picture of my setup.  Street elbow seems to work but it will be 
tight-ish with the oil filter. 

 

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yV05RZGZDMnRhNm8

 

Josh

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Stus-List Oil Pressure Gauge Install

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Guys,

 

I’ve installed an electric VDO oil pressure gauge, but the sensor install is 
giving me a bit of a problem.  I bought the tee fitting from eBay, like Josh 
and several others.  It is listed here:   
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-8-BSPT-Oil-Pressure-Sensor-Tee-to-NPT-Adapter-Turbo-Lexus-Toyota-Subaru-Mazda-/351867602261
  The only issue I have is that the Yanmar sensor sticks out from the block too 
far and actually touches the alternator belt.  I would like to install a 90 
degree elbow and point the sensor down, which I think would solve my problem.  
The problem is finding a compatible product.  It would have to be a 
male-to-female 90 degree (or 45 degree) elbow with 1/8” BSPT threads on both 
ends.  I’ve found a number of male-to-male fittings, but that won’t quite work.

 

I’ve searched a lot and haven’t found anything that would work.  Has anyone 
else run into this problem?  I don’t have room to relocated the alternator 
enough to provide clearance.

 

Any ideas?

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA



 

 

 




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Re: Stus-List CC 38 Bilge Pump

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Joe,

800gph seems plenty.  It will rid your bilge of pesky water seepage in no
time.  If you have a serious hull breach, a much larger pump will be
required,

Jake

Jake Brodersen
C 35 Mk-III "Midnight Mistress"
Hampton VA





-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joseph
Scott via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, April 2, 2017 19:10
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joseph Scott <joseph.sco...@icloud.com>
Subject: Stus-List CC 38 Bilge Pump

Hey All

I need to replace the automatic electric bilge pump. Currently the boat has
a rule 800gph on a float switch. I feel this is woefully inadequate but am
struggling with finding the space in the bilge for something larger not to
mention the fact that the thru hull to go overboard will accept 3/4" hose. 
What do you guys use?

Thanks for any help 

Joe

Sent from my iPad
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Re: Stus-List Hot water heater bypass

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

I could see where a kit like that could save you a lot of antifreeze.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA



 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, March 26, 2017 17:38
To: C List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hot water heater bypass

 

They make a kit for this.  It uses two 3-way valves.

http://m.campingworld.com/shopping/item/quick-turn-by-pass-kit/15717

 

I built a system for mine before I realized that there was an off the shelf 
solution.

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1ydEpoMU1MWmx6Qms

 

Josh Muckley

S/V Sea Hawk

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD

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Re: Stus-List Hidea Outboard Motor

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Josh,

 

I just have such a fondness for 2 stroke engines…  All of my young, formative 
memories are in a boat with a small Evinrude spitting smoke and oil fumes out 
the back.  Riding snowmobiles was another enjoyable pastime (all 2 strokes 
too).  Nothing smelled better than Klotz synthetic 2 stroke oil.  It had a real 
pungent smell.  I would like to find some and put it in my weed wacker, string 
trimmer, and chain saw.  At least it would smell good while I was working.

 

Jake

 

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA



 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, March 13, 2017 13:04
To: C List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hidea Outboard Motor

 

I think there are too many variables to make blanket declarations.  

 

How long before campfires and grilling out get declared as being more 
environmentally hazardous than all the cars in California?  What about exhaling 
CO2 Stop breathing? 

 

The biggest problem with 2-cycle engines is that they discharge oil in their 
exhaust.  That oil has been engineered to break down in the environment.  
Modern companies are engineering 2-cycle oils to provide better lubrication at 
lower concentrations.  Amsoil makes marine and regular 2-cycle oil which they 
recommend at 100:1 in ALL engines.  Its almost hard to believe.  I use it and 
the nice thing is that you really don't smell the 2-cycle exhaust which is so 
expected.  There's no blue cloud when I use my outboard or any of my yard tools.

 

Josh Muckley

S/V Sea Hawk

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD

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Re: Stus-List C 35 MK III full set of North racing sails

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Matt,

 

Welcome to the list.  I raced on The Office with Joel in the 2014
Annapolis-Bermuda Ocean Race, so I know the boat pretty well.

I'm also another 35-3 owner.  If you have questions, you're in the right
place.


Cheers,

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III "Midnight Mistress"

Hampton VA



 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Matthew
Schlanger via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, March 10, 2017 13:03
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Matthew Schlanger <m...@blackhammer.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 35 MK III full set of North racing sails

 

I am interested in the Blade, thinking about the Genoa but need to look at
NorLam for racing.

 

I am new to the list. First post.

 

Matthew Schlanger

---

The Office

C 35 MkIII

 

 

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Stus-List iPad Navigation

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Here’s one more reason not to use an iPad for your primary (or only) navigation 
source.

 

http://gcaptain.com/maib-experienced-launch-skippers-reliance-on-ipad-navigation-app-contributed-to-collision-on-humber-river/

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA



 

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Anyone had experience with Starbrite Star Tron Fuel Tank Cleaner?

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Josh,

 

I always fill my tank up at the end of the season to keep condensation down.  A 
half full tank will “make water” with the daily heating and cooling cycles.  

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2017 12:25
To: C List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Anyone had experience with Starbrite Star Tron Fuel Tank 
Cleaner?

 

Some people get touchy about running questionable fuel through the tank of 
their beloed diesel truck.  Besides getting stuck on the side of the road could 
be worse than getting stuck dead in the water.  At least in the water we still 
have our primary means of propulsion.  Now if this is just an end of year 
routine and there is good faith in the cleanliness of the diesel being 
transferred to the truck then there is absolutely no problem.  

 

It will probably never matter to most of us but some marinas offer off road 
diesel which hasn't had a DOT tax.  This diesel is died red so that inspectors 
can catch you using "off road" in your car or truck.  Typically passenger 
vehicles don't get their tanks "dipped" so we'll probably never get caught but 
just know that it is a possibility.

 

The most critical part of most diesel engines is the fuel injectors or HP fuel 
pump.  They both have extremely tight tolerances to ensure proper spray 
pattern, pressure, and volume are achieved.  That's why we have so many fuel 
filters, often running as fine as 2 microns.  A proper injector or HP pump 
cleaning is equivalent to a rebuild and may not be effective without 
replacement parts.  Your home fuel oil furnace burner has orifices in an easily 
replaced nozzle and the filtering recommendation is 50 microns, 25 times larger 
than that of our engines.  Furnaces also have considerably more room for a 
larger capacity filter or more of them.  In a dilution is the solution 
situation the home tank is also considerably larger so 40 gallons gets spread 
out further.

 

 

On the topic of additives:  One of the problems facing our older engines is 
ULSD (Untra Low Sulfur Diesel) which is being sold at the pumps.  Sulfer is a 
lubricity additive that is supposed to ensure low friction and low wear on 
those tight tolerance parts I mentioned earlier.  Our older engines where not 
designed with this lower sulfer concentration in mind.  An off the shelf 
additive that gets high marks across the Internet and one from which I've been 
able to see a performance improvement is Opti-Lube.  It is relatively 
inexpensive and IMO anyone with a diesel should consider adding it to their 
treatment plan.  In 5 seasons of operation I've never used a biocide and never 
needed to change my fuel filters.  I run 2 micron in both the primary and 
secondary and I have a vacuum gage which I monitor for filter fouling.  I use 
60 to 80 gallons per season and end the season with ~1/2 tank (~20gal).  I 
freshen up the tank by filling it at the beginning of the following season.  I 
do try to use a filter funnel to remove moisture when I can.  The funnel slows 
things up so it works best with a jerry can.  Depending on the situation I fill 
the can from the gas station OR fuel dock.  Sometimes when pressed for time or 
very low fuel in the boat tank I just fill straight from the dock, no funnel, 
no jerry can. 

 

http://opti-lube.com

 

 

Josh Muckley

S/V Sea Hawk

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD

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Re: Stus-List cleaning the engine compartment.

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

I’ve used a pressure washer inside the bilge.  It works, but be prepared for 
some overspray.  I turned my 4000psi washer down to just under 2000psi.  It 
does a heck of a job, but can damage wiring, paint, and bilge pump switches if 
you’re not careful.

 

Use in the engine compartment is fine, as long as you don’t point the nozzle at 
any electronics, wiring, or seals on the engine.  

 

Jake

 

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA

 

 

From: cenel...@aol.com [mailto:cenel...@aol.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, January 25, 2017 10:27
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: captain_j...@cox.net; bparslo...@yahoo.ca
Subject: Re: Stus-List cleaning the engine compartment.

 

I have been thinking of using a small power washer to clean my engine and bilge 
prior to re-painting my Beta 28. Of course I need to seal the alternator and 
the plug that connects the engine electrics to the starting panel before 

I begin blasting away with the washer. 

 

I could never reach some parts of the engine with a brush.

 

Before I begin and destroy something, does this seem like a reasonable way to 
clean the engine?

 

Charlie Nelson

C 36 XL/kcb

Water Phantom

New Bern, NC

 

 <mailto:cenel...@aol.com> cenel...@aol.com

 

 

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Re: Stus-List cleaning the engine compartment.

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Bev,

 

Simple Green and Purple Power are my two favorite cleaners.  Joel has had some 
good success with citrus based cleaners too.  Simple Green and citrus are 
probably two of the most earth-friendly cleaners, but always dispose of your 
cleaning solutions responsibly.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bev Parslow 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2017 21:25
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bev Parslow <bparslo...@yahoo.ca>
Subject: Stus-List cleaning the engine compartment.

 

With a few drips of oil and some water from the stuffing box the engine 
compartment is quite messy. I really would like to have it clean as well as the 
bilge. Are there any suggestions?

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Re: Stus-List Halyard replacement to Dyneema or similar

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Chuck,

 

The 3/8” MLX will be plenty strong.  Heck, I might have gone down to 5/16” if 
my clutches would grip it.  I’ve replaced several sheaves.  The originals, if 
they are in good shape, will work will all rope halyards.   The plain bearings 
will eventually develop play and will need to be replaced.  They aluminum 
sheaves are a bit rough on the surface too, but as long as they spin freely you 
shouldn’t have any trouble.  

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck Saur 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2017 16:54
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Chuck Saur <cssau...@gmail.com>
Subject: Stus-List Halyard replacement to Dyneema or similar

 

Greetings...just 14 weeks till launch 2017!  I could not find listers' 
advice/experience about changing SIZE of halyard line from current wire/rope to 
 Dyneema blend (looking at 3/8 Samson MLX).  The halyard sheaves appear to have 
enough width to handle 3/8 line; and understand the sheaves need to be smooth 
to avoid chafe, which they appear to be.  

 

Seems 3/8 MLX would have enough load capacity for each of the 3 halyards on my 
35-3.  Or...is there guidance to go up to a 7/16?  

 

Anyone with opinion?


 

 

Chuck Saur

 

(517)-490-5926

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Re: Stus-List 1983 fuel tank. Stuffing box and windows

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Peter,

If the windows are original, they were probably put in with Plexus.  It will be 
a very hard, brownish adhesive.  It sets up very hard and usually requires a 
grinder to remove.  If the adhesion has let go, you may be able to remove some 
of it with a stiff putty knife.  I use a 4" angle grinder and a dremel to 
remove most of it, being careful to not damage the flat surface of the gelcoat.

I've done this twice in the 16 years I've had my boat.  It's always a chore, 
but the finished product looks awesome.

Jake

Jake Brodersen
C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”
Hampton VA



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of PETER OCAMPO 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, January 9, 2017 10:51
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: PETER OCAMPO <bcwwka...@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1983 fuel tank. Stuffing box and windows

What did you use to remove old adhesive i your windows  



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Re: Stus-List FW: Electronics - was Re: Setting GPS Waypoints

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Joe,

 

I got one too, with my name on it.  Somebody’s been hacked!

 

Jake

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, 
Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, December 23, 2016 13:36
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Stus-List FW: Electronics - was Re: Setting GPS Waypoints

 

SPAM

 

From: s...@xenius.boljoro.be   
[mailto:s...@xenius.boljoro.be] On Behalf Of cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 
Sent: Friday, December 23, 2016 10:58 AM
To: Della Barba, Joe  >
Subject: Re: Stus-List Electronics - was Re: Setting GPS Waypoints

 

"Re: Stus-List Electronics - was Re: Setting GPS Waypoints" 

Della Barba, Joe doc 

  

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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Rewiring mast and anchor light..

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Joel,

 

My Windex light is wired to the tricolor running lights.  Works great and you 
don’t have to think about it.  No extra wiring down the mast either!  Mine is 
still the incandescent bulb, but it’s held up great for the past 6 or 7 years.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, December 9, 2016 11:06
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson <joel.aron...@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rewiring mast and anchor light..

 

I plan to wire mine to the tri-color feed.  Need the right size connectors and 
heat shrink.

 

Joel

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Re: Stus-List man overboard pole refurb?

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Dave,

 

Those all sound like worthy upgrades to an existing pole.  It should look like 
new when you’re done.  A small water-activated strobe is a good choice.  If you 
could attach it part way up the pole, it would be great for visibility.  If 
it’s too heavy, it may affect the ability of the pole to stay vertical.  It all 
depends on the type of strobe (weight).  The carabiner should have the whistle 
attached with a short leash.  A small float might make them easier to find in 
the water.  I’m thinking a key chain float might work.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave S via 
CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, November 26, 2016 08:52
To: C Stus List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Dave S <syerd...@gmail.com>
Subject: Stus-List man overboard pole refurb?

 

Working through some refurb chores and am rehabilitating my Scotty MOB pole, 
fresh paint, new flag, replace or paint some of the UV damaged plastic on the 
float, add reflective tape.  It lives in a tube mounted on the pushpit 
stanchion and is connected to a smallish ring buoy by around 75' of floating 
line.   Am contemplating a strobe and whistle an possibly a carabiner so a 
tired swimmer can more easily tether to the entire assembly.   Any thoughts on 
this?  

 

Thanks, Dave   33-2

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Velcro Adhesive

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Alan,

 

The original Velcro was very strong, but everything else I’ve tried has not 
lasted long.  My panels are now all screwed to the overhead.  I was tired of 
watching them fall off the ceiling when bashing into big waves.  The SS screws 
are all capped with covers to match the overhead.  Looks neat and professional, 
but a pain to remove by hand.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of ALAN BERGEN 
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, November 19, 2016 11:47
To: C <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: ALAN BERGEN <trya...@alumni.usc.edu>
Subject: Stus-List Velcro Adhesive

 

I'm replacing all of the ceiling access panels (1/8" plywood with cloth 
covering) with FRP (fiberglass reinforced plastic).  The existing ones are 
screwed in.  I want to use Velcro instead.  What is the  recommended adhesive 
for this? Input from anyone who has first hand experience would be appreciated.


 

Alan Bergen

35 Mk III Thirsty

Rose City YC

Portland, OR

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Re: Stus-List Oil Pressure Switch

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Josh,

 

Looks great.  This project is on my winter work list as well.  Guess it’s time 
to order mine before they’re all gone.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, November 9, 2016 20:18
To: C List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Oil Pressure Switch

 

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Re: Stus-List Oil Pressure Switch

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Josh, 

 

You had the right answer to this project some time ago.  From your Dec 2014 
posting:

 



The guy on this link has the whole project figured out.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

http://www.greentractortalk.com/forums/sub-compact-utility-tractors-scut/2467-2210-installation-water-volt-oil-gauges.html

 

 

Cheers,

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, November 4, 2016 21:12
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Oil Pressure Switch

 

As I recall the proper tee doesn't exist.  It would be simple enough for a 
machinist to manufacture though.  That was my plan.  Once you get it to 1/8" 
NPT you can do anything with it.

 

Josh Muckley

S/V Sea Hawk

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD

On Fri, Nov 4, 2016, 7:44 PM Ron Ricci via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

First, I checked out Mike’s link and Persistence is a sharp looking boat.  I’m 
partial to the color as Patriot is also dark blue with a red boot stripe and 
gold cove stripe.  Patriot also caught a line around the shaft resulting in 
multiple B.O.A.T. units to straighten the strut and replace the shaft.

 

I’ve been considering adding a the ability to read oil pressure by adding the 
appropriate transducer and NMEA 2000 interface.  To me, the existing pressure 
switch setup is not necessarily ‘fail-safe’.  Probably the most difficult thing 
will be to find an appropriate tee (Japanese threads).  I wonder if any other 
lister has found a tee that works with a Yanmar engine?

 

Thanks to all listers for your feedback,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C 37+

Bristol, RI

(978) 877-0369

 <mailto:ron.ri...@1968.usna.com> ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
<mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> ] On Behalf Of Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, November 4, 2016 8:20 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Cc: Hoyt, Mike


Subject: Re: Stus-List Oil Pressure Switch

 

Also you could install an oil pressure gauge so you know what the pressure 
really is.  The alarm is like the idiot light on your car ... if it sounds 
there is likely a problem but if it is broken you blithely assume all is good.  
I once had a car where the bulb for the engine light was burned out.

 

To install a gauge you use the same hole as the oil pressure sender.  Then you 
Tee that and put sender on one side of tee and gauge on other.  When in doubt 
you just take a quick look at the gauge.

 

I have a picture of the gauge installed on Persistence website.   You can see 
the picture in the gallery link here 
http://users.eastlink.ca/~mhoyt/persistence_gallery.htm

 

Mike

Persistence

Halifax

http://users.eastlink.ca/~mhoyt

 

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Re: Stus-List Crane for spinnaker halyard on a 44?

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Joel,

 

I’m not sure aluminum would be up to the task.  I think stainless might be a 
better choice.  Same sizing, but much stronger, but even stainless will bend 
under the right load.  Perhaps a spar maker might be of assistance here.  They 
bolt on cranes all the time.  A premade one might be your best option.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, November 1, 2016 10:21
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson <joel.aron...@gmail.com>
Subject: Stus-List Crane for spinnaker halyard on a 44?

 

I would like to add a crane to move the spinnaker halyard block forward of the 
headstay about a foot.  Selden does not make a pre-fab crane for large boats.

I was looking at a 5 inch aluminum channel:  
<http://www.speedymetals.com/p-2221-1885-x-0325-x-5-325-channel-6061-t6-aluminum-extruded.aspx>
 
http://www.speedymetals.com/p-2221-1885-x-0325-x-5-325-channel-6061-t6-aluminum-extruded.aspx

Any idea if this could handle the load?  Should I go for stainless?

Thanks.
Joel

 

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Re: Stus-List AIS VHF

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Graham,

 

Yes, that would talk to my current plotter, but not to my Raymarine stuff
that is SeaTalk NG.  There's probably a converter available somewhere.  I
plan on getting a Raymarine plotter soon, so everything will be NG then.

 

Jake

 

From: G Collins [mailto:cnclistforw...@hotmail.com] 
Sent: Sunday, October 16, 2016 11:18
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jake Brodersen <captain_j...@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Stus-List AIS VHF

 

The VHF / AIS has N2K in/output - so it _should_ be plug and play to your
plotter...

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C 35-III #11

On 2016-10-16 10:28 AM, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List wrote:

Fred,

 

My VHF is due for replacement.  Adding AIS was always on my to-do list
anyway.  This is a great combination.  How would I get the AIS info to my
chartplotter (Garmin) or Raymarine instruments?  Or should I wait for
Raymarine to introduce their own version of VHF/AIS?  I'm sure it's only a
matter of time before other manufacturers offer similar products.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III "Midnight Mistress"

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick
G Street via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, October 12, 2016 08:28
To: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List  <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Frederick G Street  <mailto:f...@postaudio.net> <f...@postaudio.net>
Subject: Stus-List AIS VHF

 

Well, my prediction a couple of months ago that it would be a while before
we saw combined AIS/VHF transceivers has been proven wrong:

 

http://www.panbo.com/archives/2016/10/standard_horizon_gx6500_a_loaded_vhf_r
adio_also_integrated_with_class_b_ais.html

 

As soon as these are approved and available through distribution, I'll be
able to price them for C listers; let me know if you're interested (Joel.
:^)

 

- Fred

 

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

 






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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

 

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Re: Stus-List AIS VHF

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Fred,

 

My VHF is due for replacement.  Adding AIS was always on my to-do list anyway.  
This is a great combination.  How would I get the AIS info to my chartplotter 
(Garmin) or Raymarine instruments?  Or should I wait for Raymarine to introduce 
their own version of VHF/AIS?  I’m sure it’s only a matter of time before other 
manufacturers offer similar products.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick G 
Street via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, October 12, 2016 08:28
To: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Frederick G Street <f...@postaudio.net>
Subject: Stus-List AIS VHF

 

Well, my prediction a couple of months ago that it would be a while before we 
saw combined AIS/VHF transceivers has been proven wrong:

 

http://www.panbo.com/archives/2016/10/standard_horizon_gx6500_a_loaded_vhf_radio_also_integrated_with_class_b_ais.html

 

As soon as these are approved and available through distribution, I’ll be able 
to price them for C listers; let me know if you’re interested (Joel…   :^)

 

— Fred

 

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

 

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Re: Stus-List V Berth Holding Tank

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Colin,

 

Nauta makes some good flexible tanks.  I’ve had one in my 35-3 for over 15 
years and no problems or smells.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Collin 
Ferguson via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2016 19:49
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Collin Ferguson <cferg...@yahoo.com>
Subject: Stus-List V Berth Holding Tank

 

Hello, This is my first posting to this list.  I'm used to forums like on the 
Moyer site, so hopefully I'm doing this right.

 

I have a 1974 C 30 MK1.  To my knowledge, it was built without a blackwater 
holding tank for the Head.  At some point over the last 40 years a P.O. put a 5 
gallon Jerry can in a storage compartment in the V Berth and installed a Y 
valve after the macerator.  One side of the Y valve goes overboard the other 
goes to the Jerry can.  

 

I'd like to install a legitimate holding tank and I think the storage 
compartment on the Port side of the V berth is a good spot.

 

Here's my question...

 

The current opening to that storage compartment is very small, just barely fits 
the square 5 gallon jerry can.  Can I make that opening bigger without 
affecting the structural integrity of the boat?  I understand that I'll have to 
make the hatch sturdy so it won't fall through when you sleep in the v berth.  
There is a lot more to do, like install and plumb a pump out deck plate.  But 
the placement of the holding tank, and finding one seems to be the hardest part.

 

Thanks for your help,

 

Collin

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Re: Stus-List Yanmar diesel

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Tom,

 

Running a diesel like that under no-load conditions won’t help it much.  
Running it at the slip in gear would provide some load to the engine and be 
more beneficial.  We usually have a 45 to 60 minute motor to the race course, 
which helps keep the engine in top shape.  I usually set it at 2,800 rpm and 
keep it there.  Always idle it for a few minutes before shutdown too.  This 
will help cool down the internal parts before you shut it down.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA



 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tom 
Buscaglia via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, October 7, 2016 13:18
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Tom Buscaglia <t...@sv-alera.com>
Subject: Stus-List yanmar diesel

 

The black smoke may indicate excessive carbon buildup.  If you don't have three 
hours to run it is, next time you bring her in while the engine is still 
running out it in neutral and run it up to 90% of max RPM for about 5 minutes. 

Tom Buscaglia

S/V Alera 

1990 C 37+/40

Vashon WA

P 206.463.9200

C 305.409.3660

 

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Re: Stus-List Prop Shaft coupling

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Bill,

 

I’ve had to separate the shaft from my coupling several times.  It has always 
been an long, arduous process.  I can’t imagine how it would ever work its way 
loose.  The first time I had it apart, I even sanded the inside of the coupling 
to allow the shaft to slide back in place without too much effort.

 

With you engine in forward gear, the prop should be trying to push the shaft 
into the coupler.  Do you spend a lot of time in reverse?  ;-) 

 

A deeper dimple might capture the set screws better.  They should never come 
loose.  I recommend Loctite blue.  In this application, you could probably use 
the red variety.  Applying some heat to the screws makes removal fairly easy, 
if it ever needs to be done.

 

I agree with others that the root cause may be vibration.  Pulling the shaft to 
check it would be prudent, if you’re into the project this far.  Also, examine 
the prop for any abnormalities.  Finally, how are the engine mounts, especially 
when the engine is under load?  Excessive movement may exacerbate your coupling 
issue.

 

My $.02 worth.

 

Jake

 

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of William 
Walker via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, September 20, 2016 16:17
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: wwadjo...@aol.com
Subject: Stus-List Prop Shaft coupling

 

Some may remember that around mid summer I posted that my prop shaft had pulled 
out of coupling.  Mine has two bolts which go through coupling and into small 
dimples drilled into shaft.  They were wired in and over time the ends had worn 
off and allowed shaft to pull out when reversed was applied to prop.  Some on 
list checked and had similar problems.  I was surprised so many
Well, on haul out I discover it has happened again, with the new bolts.  
Haven't pulled them yet to see, but shaft pulled enough to show key and the 
dimples, still in place.  
No excessive vibration or anything.  
Bolts still appear tight.
Thinking maybe of going with two set screws in each hole, one snugged, another 
on top. 
Love to hear thoughts from listers with some experience. 
Bill Walker
Evening Star
CNC 36
Pentwater, Michigan

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Re: Stus-List Keel bolt weeping

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Barbara,

 

I will agree with the others.  Try tightening the keel bolts first.  It is 
certainly the cheapest option and the first remedy that I would try.  Does your 
model have a keel bolt under the mast?  If so, that one is probably loose due 
to not being tightened regularly.  Is there any hint of the C smile on the 
leading edge of the keel/hull joint?

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Barbara L. 
Hickson via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 19, 2016 12:48
To: C List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Barbara L. Hickson <blhick...@yahoo.com>
Subject: Stus-List Keel bolt weeping

 

Hi Listers,

  I'm having trouble searching the archives for info on the possible repair 
scenarios for a keel bolt seeping seawater.  It's not much, just slightly 
weeping.  I know this has been written about extensively but not finding it on 
this forum.  The worst case scenario is the keel must be dropped and rebedded 
and I know someone on the list has done this before.  What is the bedding 
compound of choice?  Is there any other, as in cheaper, scenario that's viable? 
 The tops of the bolts and their nuts look in good shape and there's no 
rust/corrosion on what I can see.  It's the part that I can't see that I'm 
nervous about. I will get the boat hauled to better check it out and look at 
the options, but considering her age (she turns 40 next month), have to 
consider the options. I don't have the pockets to get emotional about this. One 
of us weeping is plenty! Thanks for your help.  

Barbara L. Hickson

Flight Risk, '76 C

Charleston, SC  

 

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Re: Stus-List Marine Batteries + ventilation

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Kevin,

 

My battery box has a fairly large hole going into the engine compartment as 
well.  It appears to be original.  The engine compartment is ventilated, 
although not as well as I would hope.  Better to vent into the engine 
compartment than into the cabin.  My batteries are under the quarterberth.  
This is also why I prefer AGM batteries, no fumes to worry about.  Yes, the 
Optima batteries are AGM, not gel.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Kevin Paxton 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 5, 2016 15:13
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Kevin Paxton <kpax...@paxdesigns.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Marine Batteries

 

Thanks for the suggestions and information everyone! 

 

Think I'll probably go the AutoZone Duralast option. Don't want to dump a lot 
of money in to it right now and finances are a little tight. I will however 
probably get a hardwired charger/maintainer for them to try and keep them in 
optimal condition. One question though, They are currently in battery boxes 
under the quarter berth with a hole drilled into the engine compartment. Is 
this safe for flooded batteries? Should they be relocated? If so, I have no 
clue where would be a good safe place with enough space for them. 

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Re: Stus-List Marine Batteries

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Kevin,

 

I have been using Optima Blue Top batteries for a long time.  They are an AGM 
type battery.  The initial cost is higher, but the service life is outstanding. 
 I only have two batteries, but I alternate using them when we race so they 
both get exercised.  I have one that is now exhibiting signs of failure, as it 
won’t maintain a full charge.  It is probably 6 or 7 years old and still works. 
 I was just able to start the battery after being out on the Bay for five hours 
last weekend.  I prefer the AGM batteries as they won’t outgas into the cabin 
as they age.  No user serviceable parts though… :( 

 

I put a pair of Diehard AGM batteries in my Suburban.  They were priced well 
and I may go that route this time.  Since my boat batteries aren’t a matched 
pair, I can change one at a time.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Kevin Paxton 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 5, 2016 12:39
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Kevin Paxton <kpax...@paxdesigns.com>
Subject: Stus-List Marine Batteries

 

Hey everyone. Just recently subscribed to the list. Purchased a '82 C 34 a 
few years ago. Been sailing it around the Chesapeake on brief day sails so far 
with the aim to have a few overnighters soon once the kids get a little older. 
We are based in Pasadena up Cornfield Creek. I'm lucky enough to have a 
community dock with slips that are real cheap. :-)

 

Anyways, both of my group 27 batteries got completely discharged since the last 
time I checked them. So I need to either determine if there is any way to 
salvage them or decide on a new set of batteries. Any suggestions on good 
batteries or ones to stay away from? Is there any gain to trying to revive 
them? 

 

 

They power a Yanmar 3gm30f and I haven't had any issues with starting them, but 
keeping them charged for any amount of time has been challenging. So I've been 
thinking of getting one that is a dual purpose and the other a true deep cycle 
for use as a house battery. What kind of combinations do others have?

 

Thanks!!

 

Kevin

'82 C 34 #473?

Japhy's Spirit (needs a rename, thinking 6 Pax, family of 6 Paxton is last name)

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Re: Stus-List Loud Yanmar 2gm - like open exhaust?

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Dave,

The mixing elbow is a common culprit.  Removing and cleaning it is always a
good idea.  While you have the injection hose off, run the engine to check
for water flow (point it into a quart jar or something like a milk jug).
You should see a regular stream of water.  If the water flow is
insufficient, the problem is further upstream in the heat exchanger, hoses,
or the water pump.  I'm assuming you cleaned out the strainer.  

Lastly, make sure the thru-hull is clear also.  The intake for the engine
cooling is rather small.  I pull the hose of the intake side of the raw
water pump.  It should flow freely.

Jake

Jake Brodersen
C 35 Mk-III "Midnight Mistress"
Hampton VA



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
Syerdave--- via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, September 3, 2016 20:37
To: C Stus List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: syerd...@gmail.com
Subject: Stus-List Loud Yanmar 2gm - like open exhaust?

This just started happening this weekend.  When first started and idling the
exhaust is noisy - like an open exhaust, maybe no water.  Run it for a bit
at higher rpm, and suddenly it quiets down and sounds normal.  Next cold
start, same thing.  Did a quick check of the raw water strainer underway,
and there was some stuff in there, but water was being sucked through.
Is the mixing elbow clogging?Haven't had that off yet...  Thanks all!

Dave.
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Re: Stus-List Sliding companion way hatch. 35-3

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Alan got it right.  I’ve replaced mine the same way.  It’s easy, but tedious.  
After about 12/13 years, it’s almost time to do it again.  Mine is a bit crazed.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of ALAN BERGEN 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, August 31, 2016 16:23
To: C <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: ALAN BERGEN <trya...@alumni.usc.edu>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sliding companion way hatch. 35-3

 

Remove the traveler support and the sea hood.  My sea hood is held in place by 
sheet metal screws.  The traveler support is through bolted, with access from 
the inspection panels.


 

Alan Bergen

35 Mk III Thirsty

Rose City YC

Portland, OR

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Re: Stus-List Clogged cockpit drains

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Jeremy,

 

The seacocks can trap larger items.  You may want to use a wooden dowel from 
down below to loosen up the clog.  If that doesn’t work you may need to remove 
the cockpit drain hoses to clear them out.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jeremy Ralph 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 29, 2016 18:16
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jeremy Ralph <jeremy.ra...@gmail.com>
Subject: Stus-List Clogged cockpit drains

 

Just got back from a lovely trip to the gulf islands, crossing the Strait of 
Georgia for my first time in our 78 C 34-1

 

Now cleaning up after the kids made a mess of the cockpit and the drains are 
clogged.  Originally just one was clogged, but I stuck a small sink snake in 
and have clogged the other one too. There were some otters making a mess of 
mussel shells one time and I think some went down the drains.  

 

What I have tried:

- blasting water down

- small snake

- shop vac blow and suck (not completely vacuumed sealed into the hose just 
held tight to the drain)

- shutting and opening thru hulls - they aren't closing very well and I hear a 
sound like mussel shells when I close them

 

Ideas:

- go for a swim and poke a screw driver in from the water

- close seacock, remove hose and check it. I'm worried it isn't shutting 
properly due to the cloggage though and don't want an surprise ingress of water 
while I'm contorting myself into the bilge to remove the hose clamps

 

Any advice?

 

Thanks,

 

  Jeremy

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Re: Stus-List Portable Air Conditioner -- Anyone try it?

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Edd,

 

I mounted a 12,000 btu window unit in the companionway.  It keeps the boat 
chilly even in the high 90’s.  We only use it a couple times a year, but for 
the price it sure beats hotel rooms.   Yes, it’s a bit heavy and hard to stow, 
but I’ve worked out a spot at the saloon table next to the mast where it stays 
put.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA



 

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd Schillay 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, August 19, 2016 12:08
To: C List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Edd Schillay <e...@schillay.com>
Subject: Stus-List Portable Air Conditioner -- Anyone try it?

 

Listers,

 

We’ve had some really hot days up here in the Northeast and the Admiral is 
thinking air conditioning. I don’t really want to go through the expense of 
installing a marine air conditioner and through-hull valves, but I have been 
hearing stories of boaters putting one of those portable AC units on board with 
the exhaust hose going out through a hatch. 

 

I would probably stick with an 7,000-8,000 BTU using drawing 7-9 amps. The 
specs say that can cool 250 square feet, which I think would make the inside of 
a boat cabin quite comfortable. Obviously would only be used during shore power 
or while the engine is running (I have a high-amp alternator and a great 
inverter on board). 

 

Has anyone done this? Any thoughts? 


All the best,

 

Edd

 

 

Edd M. Schillay

Starship Enterprise

C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

City Island, NY 

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log <http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/> 

 




 






 

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Re: Stus-List Windlass rebuff

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Joel,

 

Fortunately we didn’t do any anchoring in the Annapolis-Bermuda race this year!

 

Me:  5’ of chain and 100’ of 3/8” of three strand anchor line.  We racers keep 
it light.  8-)

 

Jake

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, August 17, 2016 11:13
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Windlass rebuff

 

My 35/3 had a fairly light Danforth and 10 feet of chain.  I used it only as a 
lunch hook, and it was pretty easy to haul up by hand.

 

My 44 has a 35 pound anchor (considered light for the boat by many) and 25 feet 
of 3/8 stainless chain.  When I tripped the breaker on the windlass and did not 
know how to reset it, I needed help hauling up the anchor and chain.  

 

Can't live with em, can't live without em!

 

Joel

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Re: Stus-List Opinions about new headsail construction

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Yes, the 155 will backwind the main a bit more, but the overall effect is still 
very positive.  I will run the traveler a little higher in light air to 
minimize back winding.  As the breeze picks up, the bubble isn’t as pronounced.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 16, 2016 12:31
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson <joel.aron...@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Opinions about new headsail construction

 

Josh,

 

I didn't notice a big difference, but the wind was less than 10 knots.  I 
generally trim the main by looking at the leech. and position of the boom.

Maybe Jake can chime in - it was his sail on my boat for Bermuda.

 

Joel

 

On Tue, Aug 16, 2016 at 12:26 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Joel, 

With the narrow slot didn't you notice that the main got more back wind?  How 
did you handle this?

Josh 

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