Stus-List Re: C Corvette 31

[Jonathan Tebbens via CnC-List]

https://www.corvettesailboatassociation.com/

On Tue, 9 Jan 2024, 15:38 Richard Bush via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Dave, and Rob Mazza; thank you both, that's exactly the kind of input
> needed!
>
> Richard
> Richard N. Bush Law Offices
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220
> (502) 584-7255
>
>
> On Tuesday, January 9, 2024 at 01:40:10 PM EST, Dave S via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
> The corvette tugged at my heartstrings before I bought Windstar, and I had
> a chance to look at several.They are quite a bit "rougher" than later
> boats (more like smaller boatyard's' stuff) and there were a few issues I
> saw across several examples.
> Check the glassed-in knees where the shrouds attach.  This had either been
> repaired or required repair in the boats I had looked at.   This repair is
> not a big deal for a competent amateur.
> Similarly, several had wet/soft decks.   One (sadly) needed much of the
> cored area rebuilt, and the area around the lazarette could not be trusted
> to bear my weight.  Poor guy would have given me the boat I think.For
> sure check that.
> Lastly, two of the boats I had looked at had hydraulic backstay
> adjusters.   Both boats had very distorted topsides at approximately the
> location where the shrouds attach.  It gave the impression that the hull
> had buckled due to the force of the adjusters.   .
> All that said, I'd buy one at the right price because they are probably
> pretty easy to work on (myself) and they are very pretty.
>
> Good luck.
>
> Dave
>
>
>
>
>
> On Tue, 9 Jan 2024 at 12:31, Richard Bush via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Is there anyone on this list who has knowledge of or experience with the
> Corvette model, I have a friend interested in one, but there are none in
> our area; they are mostly interested in sailing and handling
> characteristics, maintenance requirements, and any known
> deficiencies...such as core de-lamination issues, or the like, thanks!
>
> Richard
> 1985 C 37 CB: Ohio River, Mile 596;
>
> Richard N. Bush Law Offices
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220
> (502) 584-7255
>
>
> On Tuesday, January 9, 2024 at 12:11:23 PM EST, Motion Designs Limited via
> CnC-List  wrote:
>
>
> 8 oz or 12 oz Rugby Shirts
>
> Lighter is a little cheaper but I’m thinking more comfort ?
>
> JKC
>
>
> www.candcyachts.com
> Motion Designs Limited
> 647 990 7752
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Question and info

[Jonathan Tebbens via CnC-List]

Hi Matt, I've found these spiral clips at local bearing and seal shop. Took
in one of the old (non-stainless) and they ordered in what I wanted within
a couple days. Since the manufacturer order min was some silly number, they
ordered me 3 "samples".
Jon Tebbens
78 Mega 30
Katherine

On Sun, 3 Dec 2023, 20:24 Matthew Wolford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Listers:
>
>
>
> Hope everyone is doing well.
>
>
>
> I have a question and a small project some of you may find
> of interest.  First, the question: does anyone know of a good source for
> stainless spiral retaining clips for winches (to hold the drum down)?  I
> have some Merriman Holbrook winches with missing retaining clips that have
> a 1.25 inch ID and 1.5 inch OD.  McMaster Carr sells them, but not the
> right size.  I have also seen some of the other style clips (that use a
> spanner wrench), but I like the spiral style better.  Please advise if you
> are aware of a good source for these.
>
>
>
> Second, I am in the middle of a relatively minor
> maintenance project some of you may find of interest.  Although I usually
> leave my mast up while the boat is winter-stored on the hard, this year I
> took it down to get access under the mast step for a keel-related issue
> this spring.  My mast is little over 60 feet long and weighs about 700
> pounds, and I had the crane lay it on four saw horses (rated at about 1250
> lbs per pair) for winter storage.  Last week we had a wind storm, and I
> checked on the mast to make sure everything was okay.  It was not okay.
> Either the wind pushed the mast over (including the saw horses) or someone
> hit one or more of the saw horses with a car.  I believe it was the former,
> as all four saw horses were laying on their sides, and the mast was on the
> ground.  I haven’t had the time to comprehensively inspect for damage, but
> on cursory review the mast appears to be no worse for the wear.  In
> hindsight, and assuming the wind pushed it over, I wish I would have used
> only two saw horses.  Distributing the 700 or so pounds over four saw
> horses likely made it easier for the wind to knock it over.
>
>
>
> I do not usually store the mast on saw horses and plan to
> never do so again.  Instead, the yacht club where I keep the boat has large
> styrofoam blocks for winter mast storage.  However, I came out of the water
> late this year, and all the blocks were taken.  After the recent saw horse
> incident, I decided to buy my own styrofoam blocks.  There is a place in
> Erie that sells them (expanded polystyrene, or EPS), and the sales rep
> asked what density I wanted.  I explained what I am using them for, and he
> said the lightest density (1 lb. per cubic foot) should work fine.  I
> wanted to order three blocks but was required to order a minimum of four
> (around $30 apiece).  When I got them down to the yacht club, it was
> obvious that the ones owned by the club are of a higher density.  (I’m
> guessing 2 lbs. pcf.)  Nevertheless, the ones I bought should work fine.  I
> also noticed, however, that my lighter density blocks damage much more
> easily than the heavier ones.  For example, while moving a block in place,
> a stay from the mast next to mine cut into the block like a hot knife
> through butter.  This was not good, and I can’t exchange my foam blocks for
> blocks with higher density, so I decided to paint my new blocks with that
> lobster buoy paint that was the topic of an e-mail string a little while
> back.  I ordered a gallon of yellow buoy paint so my blocks will be
> distinguishable and clearly visible.  While placing the order, I called the
> retailer (Hamilton Marine) and asked about coverage.  The rep didn’t know.
> (As it turns out, it’s a little less than a half-gallon to put two coats on
> one of my foam blocks.)  Curiously, when I asked about coverage, the rep
> said they get the paint from True Value (a hardware chain).  I don’t know
> what product True Value sells that is the same as lobster buoy paint, but
> it would be helpful to figure this out and buy locally.  In any event, I
> have now covered two blocks with two coats of paint and will be using them
> later this week for mast storage.  I’m hoping the yellow buoy paint will
> help them stand up to abuse.  I’ll let you know how it goes.
>
>
>
> Matt
>
> C 42 Custom
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Diesel Fill Hose Replacement

[Jonathan Tebbens via CnC-List]

Can you get at both ends? Send a messenger line inside, in case as Dennis
notes, something goes wrong. Then you at least still have the route through
everything.
Jon Tebbens
78 Mega
Katherine


On Sat, 17 Jun 2023, 08:23 Dennis C. via CnC-List 
wrote:

> You're only going to get one shot if you tape it.  If the tape comes
> loose, you're cooked.
>
> Get a barb coupling to attach old and new.  Here's one for $4.
>
>
> https://www.lowes.com/pd/Apollo-1-1-2-in-Dia-Coupling-Plastic-Coil-Fitting/50139874?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-plb-_-ggl-_-LIA_PLB_142_Pipe-Fittings-_-50139874-_-local-_-0-_-0=CjwKCAjws7WkBhBFEiwAIi1680hoQW5cUM-vsn1Qkn8Mh-5UhPWCTc9U6OJVbIBSCpY5ARYoquIxVxoCf18QAvD_BwE=aw.ds
>
> Here's one for $1
>
>
> https://www.lowes.com/pd/Apollo-ABTC112/5012921827?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-plb-_-ggl-_-LIA_PLB_142_Pipe-Fittings-_-5012921827-_-local-_-0-_-0=CjwKCAjws7WkBhBFEiwAIi16800FEoXFeltqhJ37vlca3Tdpk9gCAWklW6mYWJsrMFeEuRip7Fqg_BoCEFsQAvD_BwE=aw.ds
>
> --
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Sat, Jun 17, 2023 at 6:55 AM nausetbeach--- via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I need to replace the diesel fill hose which is routed behind cabinetry
>> and wanted to ask the list for some suggestions for pulling the new hose.
>> [I found diesel in the bilge and believe the 36+ yo fill hose is the
>> culprit – if should be replaced anyway.]  From the tank, the hose passes
>> through a ¾” (?) plywood with glass tabbing bulkhead next to the hull into
>> a space which is inaccessible behind the ice box, makes a 90* turn up
>> through a 1” plywood and Formica surface surrounding the icebox against the
>> hull, then through another shelf to the fill fitting screwed into the deck.
>>
>>
>>
>> The 1 ½” diameter wire reinforced fuel rated hose is very stiff, and the
>> holes through which it must pass are quite tight.  Am guessing that holds
>> the hose in place and minimizes chafe from vibrations.  There are no wire
>> ties or similar securing the hose that I can see – cannot see behind the
>> icebox with the old hose in place.
>>
>>
>>
>> Any thoughts on how best to pull it through the bulkhead and bending it
>> to go up through the shelving?  I have a heat gun and will soften the hose
>> to hopefully make it somewhat more pliable, but guiding it through the
>> inaccessible space to and through the first shelving is the big challenge.
>>
>>
>>
>> Ideas so far:  taping the end of the new hose to the old and pulling it
>> [am not confident that would be strong enough] or use 3 or 4 strings
>> through small holes punched in the old hose as messengers [taped as well]
>> to pull new hose.  Would cut off a bit of hose where the holes would be
>> punched in the new hose to have good material all around.
>>
>>
>>
>> Any suggestions are appreciated.  Cannot use the boat as it is….
>>
>>
>>
>> TIA
>>
>> Brian
>> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
>> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks for your help.
>> Stu
>>
>
>
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Jam Cleat

[Jonathan Tebbens via CnC-List]

https://www.nandjmarine.com/store/product-detail/plastic-jam-cleat-6
http://www.hollandmarine.com/hmp-flipbook-2022/flipbook/index.html?page=204

Like these? My originals are alum., not plastic. Have never turned up one
of those.

Jon Tebbens
'78 Mega 30
Katherine

On Thu, Mar 16, 2023 at 12:20 PM pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I’m looking for a source on a couple jam cleats similar to what came on
> our 80’s vintage C 37.
>
>
>
> Initial online review has come up short and hoping someone can help me out.
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Pete
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
>
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: bed-it butyl tape from Amazon

[Jonathan Tebbens via CnC-List]

Sorry Stu, l thought a screenshot might be small.

Below is the first part of the SDS
Jon


Safety  Data  Sheet BT-1834 SECTION  1  –  PRODUCT  AND  COMPANY
INFORMATION Company:
   Product  Family: Product
Name: Dicor  Corporation  -  2965 LaVanture Pl, Elkhart, IN  46514
574.264.2699 Coatings BT-1834
 Recommended  Uses:  Construction EMERGENCY  1.800.255.3924 SECTION  2  –
HAZARD  IDENTIFICATION Signal  Word: Pictogram: Physical  Hazards: Health
Hazards:   WARNING None Not Classified Eye  Damage/Irritation  (Category
2B) Causes eye  irritation Environmental Hazards:Not Classified
Precautionary  Statements: Prevention:  Wash  hands thoroughly  after
handling.Response If  in  eyes:  Rinse  cautiously  with  water  for
several  minutes.  Remove  contact  lenses,  if  present  and easy  to do.
Continue  rinsing. If  eye  irritation  persists:  Get  medical advice  or
attention. Storage: Disposal: HNOC:* Supplemental  info: None.   None None
known HMIS:  Health  1  Flammability  0  Physical Hazard 0 Personal
Protection  B * Hazard(s)  not  otherwise  classified  or  not  covered
by  GHS SECTION  3  –  COMPOSITION/INFORMATION  ON  INGREDIENTS Component
Polyisobutylene Limestone CAS  Number 9003-27-4 1317-65-3 Wt.  % 10-20 60-78


On Tue, 29 Nov 2022, 13:31 Jonathan Tebbens 
wrote:

> I have several rolls of that dicor tape. Not much good to me. Note the
> instructions say not to stretch it. It just pulls apart. Here is a page
> from the MSDS. It is mostly chalk.
> Jon Tebbens
> 78 Mega 30
> Katherine
>
>
>
> On Tue, 29 Nov 2022, 10:55 CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Just received a two pound roll of Butyl Tape from Amazon.
>> 3/4" wide x 1/8" thick x 30 feet long. $13.
>>
>> Delivery was free but it took a month to get here.  Looks better than the
>> stuff I bought from SailRite as the paper separator is much heavier and
>> shouldn't deteriorate into the butyl like the SailRite product did. It's a
>> darker color than Bed-It and the wider tape means a change in prep, but
>> should serve well.   I can proceed with rebedding things and maybe be ready
>> for Spring.
>>
>> My thanks go to Paul and the list for the advice.  The link is below.
>>
>> Chuck S
>>
>> -- Original Message --
>> From: Dreuge 
>> To: CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
>> Date: 10/25/2022 9:09 AM
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Re: bed-it butyl tape source
>>
>>
>> I have purchased Dicor butyl tape from Amazon.  I have been using it for
>> several years now, and this stuff is the real deal.  See "Dicor BT-1834-1
>> 1/8" x 3/4”
>> x 30' Butyl Seal Tape” for $11.86 Prime free delivery.
>>
>> Here is the link to Amazon:
>>
>> https://www.amazon.com/Dicor-BT-1834-1-Butyl-Seal-Tape/dp/B001FCB4JS/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=butyl%2Btape=1666702413=eyJxc2MiOiI0Ljk1IiwicXNhIjoiNC4zNiIsInFzcCI6IjQuMTIifQ%3D%3D=buty%2Caps%2C92=8-3=1
>>
>>
>> -
>> Paul E.
>> 1981 C Landfall 38
>> S/V Johanna Rose
>> Fort Walton Beach, FL
>>
>> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/
>>
>>
>>
Don't forget to show your appreciation and help pay the bills.  Make a 
contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.

Stus-List Re: C 35 Mainsheet

[Jonathan Tebbens via CnC-List]

I have 5:1 on my Mega, with a comparable sized main. I race on a 35 and it
has 6:1 - a triple on the boom and a double w becket on top of a ratchet
and cleat on the traveller. We blew a sheave one day and dropped to 5:1.
Not nearly so manageable.
Jon Tebbens
78 Mega
Katherine

On Fri, 15 Jul 2022, 11:39 Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Josh has an amazing mainsheet setup, I thought I bookmarked it, but can't
> find it.
> I think if you are not racing a 4:1 would work, just feather up and pull.
>
> Bill Coleman
> Entrada, Erie PA
>
>
> On Fri, Jul 15, 2022 at 11:13 AM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Has anyone changed their 35 to a multi-part tackle and cam cleat that you
>> operate from the traveler back at the helm instead of the stock system that
>> runs a line up to the mast and back to a cabin top winch?
>> Would 4:1 be enough or would 6:1 be better?
>>
>> My preventer is a pretty big 4 part and cam cleat setup, it just about
>> looks like it could do the job.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Joe Della Barba
>>
>> Coquina C 35 MK I
>>
>> Kent Island MD USA
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>

Stus-List Re: Bed-It Butyl Tape

[Jonathan Tebbens via CnC-List]

https://www.marineoutfitters.ca/mobile/?category=10427%7C11795=38615903=BIBT=shop

On Sun, 3 Oct 2021, 18:28 Jim Watts via CnC-List 
wrote:

> The owner had a stroke and I think he's closed down the web store for a
> bit.
>
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
>
>
> On Fri, 1 Oct 2021 at 23:20, Donald Kern via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>>
>> I went to the web site  that this forum
>> recommended to purchase a roll of Bed-It tape and did not find that the
>> tape was available.  Did *Marine how to* get out of the Butyl tape
>> business?  Is there a recommended alternate ?
>>
>>
>> Don Kern
>> *Fireball,* C Mk2
>> Bristol, RI
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Broken Bolt in Epoxy

[Jonathan Tebbens via CnC-List]

Which way is out? If it is broken on the exterior and you want to coax it
into the boat, CW may be what you want.

As for drilling oversize, what about a small hole saw, so you are not
trying to drill stainless? Perfect for new epoxy plug and either redrill as
needed of cosmetic finish.
Jon Tebbens
'78Mega

On Tue, 20 Jul 2021, 21:53 Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I'd get a 1/8 reverse drill bit.
>
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Re: Stus-List C MK1 Mast Step Replacement

[Jonathan Tebbens via CnC-List]

http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread.php?164747-Black-Locust

On Tue, 1 Sep 2020, 09:18 Steve Thomas via CnC-List 
wrote:

> On the subject of wood choices:
>
> 1. Yes oak, but not red oak, which is the stuff most readily available
> around here. Red oak is not rot resistant.
>
> 2. I have recently found out that Black Locust is very hard and
> rot-resistant. I have a small tree which I have to take down but is don't
> know if it is large enough to produce wood with those characteristics. I
> need new handrails and I was thinking of using that. Does anyone know if it
> has to be heartwood or does that matter in the case of this species?
>
>
>
> 
>
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Need to replace forward hatch on 35 mkIII

[Jonathan Tebbens via CnC-List]

I seem to remember an earlier thread mentioning Hammerhead in GTA renewing
the A hatches. Website is still live: http://www.hhns.ca/contact-us/

They even mention repairing cracked frames.

Jon Tebbens
78 Mega
Katherine


On Tue, 5 May 2020, 09:17 Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> By “drop in” I assume they mean the same size hole in the boat. I can’t
> imagine a Lewmar hatch could be taken apart and combined with an A hatch
> to make a hybrid.
>
>
>
>
>
> *Joe Della Barba Coquina C 35  MK I*
>
> *www.dellabarba.com *
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
> *rjcasciato---
> via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, May 05, 2020 8:43 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* rjcasci...@comcast.net
> *Subject:* [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Need to replace forward hatch on 35
> mkIII
>
>
>
> Matthew, I would give Hatchmasters a call, they do amazing repairs and
> reglazing on all brands.
> I would be surprised if they didn't have the part you're looking for.
> Tony used to be the sales guy; they are in Norwalk CT.
> Ron C.
>
>
> Sent from Xfinity Connect Application
>
>
> -Original Message-
>
> _ Thanks everyone for supporting this list
> with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you
> want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution --
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Which metal should I use as a sacrificial anode?

[Jonathan Tebbens via CnC-List]

https://www.engineeringclicks.com/galvanic-series/

Good protection means being far enough apart on the series. The electrolyte
matters too. Zinc isn't so great at protecting aluminum (i.e. outboards) so
magnesium comes into use. Longevity, assuming that you have a reaction
going on, comes down to mass of the sacrificial metal. Redundancy in case
of physical loss is a tangential thought.

I have a block of zinc bolted to my iron keel, which has been working for
me in Lake Huron for >10 years. It's about the size of my cell phone.

Jon Tebbens
78 Mega "Katherine"



On Fri, 20 Mar 2020, 23:02 Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> From what I know, the aluminium is for brackish water and magnesium is for
> fresh.
>
>
>
>
> I’d like to get both max protection AND max life out of my anodes.  For
> those who sail in salty or brackish waters, which metal  are you all using,
> and what’s been the longevity?
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Furler extrusion attachment to mast etc.

[Jonathan Tebbens via CnC-List]

On my mast, the pin is welded to the pear shaped plate. Main sheave axle at
the head and two jib sheaves lower down. There is no hole on the opposite
side so pin is captive.
Jon Tebbens
'78 Mega


On Mon, 16 Mar 2020, 08:42 Ken Heaton via CnC-List 
wrote:

>   2.  Once that comes out, I should be able to see the sheave, but not
> sure how to remove it.  There is an aluminum plate on the side of the mast
> about where the sheave axle would be, but then what?  Is the sheave axle
> attached to the plate?
>
> No, the axle probably isn't attached to the plate, but the plate is there
> to keep it from coming out.  Remove the plate and them try a really strong
> magnet on the end of the shaft (hopefully there will be enough magnetic
> attraction to the axle) while you jiggle the sheave with a screwdriver
> poked into the halyard outlet.
>
> Ken H.
>
>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Call At 1:00pm (EST) Today!

[Jonathan Tebbens via CnC-List]

Thanks David. That was a great call. Please relay the same to Denis.
Jon Tebbens

On Mon, 31 Dec 2018, 12:13 David via CnC-List  Hello All,
>
> Please join us for a call with Denis about his transatlantic passage
> aboard his C & C 27 Mk 5.
>
> Call details;
>
>
>- 12/31 at 1:00pm EST
>
>
>- (605) 472-5628.  Access code 542240
>
>
> Playback number for those who cannot make the scheduled call is (605)
> 475-4957
>
> Please mute your phones!!!
>
> I tried to attached his diary from his passage to this email, but the
> server did not like that.  Send me an email personally and I will forward
> it to you.
>
> Whatever questions you have I will forward to Denis prior to the call.
> Even if you cannot make the call, do send along your questions.
>
> The call will be an hour (approximate) in duration.
>
> If you are so inclined to donate for the call please donate our Friend Stu.
>
>
> *David F. Risch, J. D.*
>
> *Gulf Stream Associates, LLC*
>
>
> *(401) 419-4650 *
>
>
> 
>  Virus-free.
> www.avast.com
> 
> <#m_7044174071227425560_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Source for LDP Water Tank Inspection Port Caps & O-Rings?

[Jonathan Tebbens via CnC-List]

http://www.kracor.com/support/hosefittings.pdf

I found a 3" O ring at a non-marine store in Vancouver many years ago.
cannot remember where. Kracor, who made my tanks has them in their
catalogue.
Jon Tebbens
'78 Mega

On Mon, Feb 5, 2018 at 10:15 PM, Rick Rohwer via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Curious why you would care if the tank leaked at the top of the tank.  All
> of the water is of full use.  Fresh water in the bilge.
>
> I assume you aren’t taking water in from the fill points, so you are not
> sinking!
>
> I have a similar (possibly the same) problem (and many others) so I wonder
> why this issue would be a priority!
>
> Rick
> 37+ Paikea
> Tacoma, WA
>
>
> On Feb 5, 2018, at 6:55 PM, William Walker via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Bruce,
>   I have similar looking caps, BUT I am 426 miles from the boat.  I took
> one off and to a local RV dealer and got an exact match, about 5 years ago.
> Bill Walker
> 1981 Cnc 36
> Pentwater, Mi.
>
> On Feb 5, 2018 9:47 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Hello all,
>
> I have a water tank inspection cap that is leaking when the tank is full,
> and the DPO thought it a good idea to apply silicone sealer to all the
> o-rings on all 5 caps>  He also applied silicone sealer to nearly every
> exterior nut, bolt and screw, but that's another story.  Ugh...
>
> Here's some links to a couple photos:
>
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/c7rcwh7wfwm9nne/Cap%20for%
> 20LDP%20Water%20Tank%203.jpg?dl=0
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/rj310g6xy9nozh1/Cap%20for%
> 20LDP%20Water%20Tank%202.jpg?dl=0
>
> 
>
> Anyone know a source where I can find these caps and their o-rings?
>
> Thank you!
>
> Bruce Whitmore
> 1994 C 37/40+ "Astralis"
> Madiera Beach, FL
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Outboard in the river

[Jonathan Tebbens via CnC-List]

You might need to pull the carb and get the water out of the bowl and perhaps 
other parts of the fuel system. If it was old enough / large enough to have a 
magneto like a 1962 merc 650, you might fuss around for a while before you 
pulled the cover off the magneto to find it just wet enough to misfire and make 
you think you crossed the plug wires after you put the plugs back in. J

Jon Tebbens

’78 Mega

“Katherine”

 

We had several outboards when I was a kid and a few ended-up on the bottom of 
the lake..  As a precaution we would Rinse it by taking the spark plugs off 
and pouring some 2 cycle motor oil in the carburetor throat(s) then pulling the 
starter string  / adding oil until no trace of water is coming out of the plug 
holes.. 


-Francois Rivard 
1990 34+  Take Five 
Lake Lanier, Ga 


Through an unfortunate accident my 4 hp 2 cycle Suzuki went to the bottom
of the Columbia 
What are some of the things I should do to get it running again.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
CC 44
Portland, Or
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com



 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com