Stus-List Fabricating bow roller for C&C 33-1
Greetings, It has been a few years since I was last subscribed to this list, it is great to see that it is still operating - thanks Stu. I have a '75 C&C33-1 and I would like to fabricate a stainless steel plate/roller to fit over the aluminum nose piece at the pointy end of the boat. I have reviewed the bow roller examples at the C&CPhotoAlbum site for ideas. I want a roller that I can carry, deploy, and raise the anchor from. I have a Fortress FX-16 (not too heavy) and based on a mock-up I made the starboard side of this fabricated plate would only need to extend a couple inches past the edge of the nose casting and a couple of inches beyond the forward edge to keep the anchor from hitting the hull. My idea was then to either weld on a commercially available roller designed for the Fortress/Danforth or to have the channel and roller fabricated from scratch as part of the plate. I was planing on attaching the plate to the aluminum nose casting with maybe 6 suitable machines screws forward of the metal fairleds/chocks that came standard. My yard's very talented stainless fabricator spent some time examining the boat and in the end decided that it would be unwise/unsafe to drill and tap holes into that casting to support a roller - declining the work. He was worried that it could not take the strain and there could be an accident. Looking around the yard I have seen a lot of pretty cheesy bow rollers fabricated and mounted on the front of boats, and they look like they have been there for years. Does anyone on the list have experience with one of these retrofitted bow rollers on a C&C of this vintage and style? Any problems or failures? There was a yard in Ontario that used to make them. I had spoken with them 7-8 years ago and they said they still had the templates and could make me one. The price scared me off at the time and my back was younger - so I took no action. I have since lost the name of that yard and my back is not what it used to be. Does anyone know of someone who creates these? ken ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Plumbing Related
Glad this fixed it for you. SOP for my head is closing the seawater-in valve after each use (I do not have a high loop or anti-siphon valve). I once left seawater-in open, relying on the dry/flush valve built in to the pump to keep water from coming in, and after a few hours the water level in the bowl was the same as the water level outside the hull! I have sense rebuilt the head, but always open and close the value each "sitting" - belt and suspenders… I also added a small Jabsco inline filter this spring to keep hard and soft debris out of the pump and bowl. With a plastic bore in the pump this should extend the life of the pump. Ken C&C 33-1 On Tue, 26 Jul 2016 15:48:06 -0300, robert via CnC-List wrote: Yes, took the boat for a sail as soon as the new pump was installed.15% to 20% heel on both tacks.dry 'bowel'. In fact, when I emptied the bowel of water (dry bowel switch) with the old pump, water would seep back into the bowel to probably 'water level' or 'sea level'. Now with the new pump, the bowel is virtually dry and stays that way.just a few ounces of water the new pump can't possibly pick up and discharge. Well worth the investment and effort. Rob Abbott On 2016-07-26 3:40 PM, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List wrote: Did it fix the original problem? -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert via CnC-List Sent: Tuesday, July 26, 2016 1:29 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: robert Subject: Stus-List Plumbing Related Recently, on port tack, my 'head bowl' was filling and overflowing with sea water.wasn't completely sure whether it was a faulty 'choker valve' or the valve in the 'shut off' leverhad to be one or the other, probably a faulty valve in the 'shut off' switch. Trip to Binnacle to check out possible solutions to the problem.simplest way to address it was to get a whole new Jabsco pump assembly for $100. One hour labor in total install new pump. disconnect 3 hoses from old pump, 4 screws in the base, screw new pump into place, connect the 3 hoses.one of the easiest boat jobs I have experienced. FYi for anyone having a similar problem. Rob Abbott AZURA C&C 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S. ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Winterizing an Atomic 4
I have the Moyer FWC cooling system on my A4 which needs no winterization (as it and the block are filled with automotive type antifreeze). To winterize the seawater side of the FWC, seawater pump and wet exhaust I pull a hose off the seawater strainer, put it in a bucket of the pink stuff (non toxic RV/marine engine anti-freeze) and run about 3 gallons through until pink starts coming out the exhaust pipe. Prestone protects the freshwater side, pink stuff the seawater side. I also squirt some MMO in the combustion chambers through the spark plug holes to keep the rings/valves free during the winter and to dissolve any build up on them from the season. The Moyer site has a couple of write ups on winterizing in the forums area. Ken On Tue, 11 Oct 2016 16:41:30 -0400, Neil Gallagher via CnC-List wrote: When I first put fresh water cooling on my A4, I did drain the block and pump every year, but then it occurred to me that I was leaving the interior of the engine filled with air and moisture, not the best combination. Taking the side plate off in my case would be difficult. I now make sure my coolant has antifreeze (the automotive type) that protects down to minus whatever, and leave the block full. My thinking is that the coolant has a corrosion inhibitor in it, probably better for the engine. Am I missing something? Neil Gallagher Weatherly, 35-1 Glen Cove On 10/11/2016 1:16 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote: When I bought Touche' in 1999, it had an AT4. It had the drain plug extension. When I finally got it started, the drain plug extension leaked. As I recall, it was corroded at the threads at the cap. When I went to replace it, it fell apart. I think it's just a 1/8 or 1/4 pipe nipple. Just something to check and be aware of. Dennis C. On Tue, Oct 11, 2016 at 11:50 AM, Michael Brown via CnC-List wrote: I have the extension pipe installed between the distributor and the alternator belt. There is just a cap on the end that I remove to drain the block. It is easy. The two drain plugs on the block are simple to get to. The drain plug on the bottom of the water pump is a bit fiddly to start back in, mainly just an issue getting into the lazerette enough to reach it. I doubt it is a 5 minute job to do all four. Is it common to just drain the engine ( block ) and not fill it with antifreeze? Michael Brown Windburn C&C 30-1 From: "phorvati ." U have to drain the block. Side inspection plate will leak if you dont drain it. Its fragile as it is. It doesnt take too much freezing to develop leaks. Block drain plug is under distributor, just aft of side inspection plate. It's pita. Moyer sells extention to make this easy. ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! - ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
