Re: Stus-List Mast pumping?

[Mark Smith via CnC-List]

Loosen the backstay.


On 8/13/2017 1:28 AM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List wrote:


Hi Al,

Hoist a fender up a halyard so it hangs somewhere between the upper & 
lower spreaders and is near or alongside the mast.


Or, goggle vortex shedding and then after an hour or so of reading, 
see above.


It's nothing to worry about. */Sweet /*does this occasionally.

Cheers, Russ

At 08:55 PM 12/08/2017, you wrote:
So I'm sitting at the dock with a 10 knot breeze on the beam and a 
strange pulsating noise begins. You can feel it through the boat. I 
go on deck and find it's the mast moving fore and aft at the middle. 
Thinking it strange I tighten the baby stay and it slows but doesn't 
stop. Anyone else have this happen? What to do?


Cheers, Al


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If 
you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 


All Contributions are greatly appreciated!



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Autopilot ST4000+ issue

[Mark Smith via CnC-List]

I've had that happen several times until I figured out what was wrong.  
If you're engaging it to "track", in other words, to steer to a 
waypoint, you need to engage "track" immediately after setting your 
chartplotter to "navigate to".  If you set the chartplotter to "navigate 
to" a waypoint, then later tell the autopilot to "track" to that 
waypoint, it will immediately head for the previously plotted track, 
then once it reaches the previously plotted track, it will steer to the 
selected waypoint. Very disconcerting when you don't know what it's doing.



On 8/8/2017 2:41 PM, Mike Rose via CnC-List wrote:

Ok.

I've been cruising for a 1.5 weeks and the autopilot has performed better than 
ever before. Until today. It rained heavily last night, and the head-end is 
mounted next to the helm. I've only ever engaged it using the fluxgate compass. 
Today, as soon as I pressed Auto, the motor turned the wheel to port without 
stopping. I've tried it several times over the past two hours and same thing. 
Powered off and on, no difference. Any thoughts?

Thanks,
Mike
s/v Shannon Rose
C 39
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!



--
OK, I can admit I was wrong.
Trump was obviously elected by an overwhelming majority
and has shown superb leadership skills with his ability to
unite the people of the country behind common goals, and
to galvanize his party into an effective legislative force
for pursuing his agenda.  He's also losing weight and his huge
hands are getting even bigger.


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List I need help with portlights

[Mark Smith via CnC-List]

Can anyone tell me the thickness of the original material in the C 30 
portlights?  Mine are 1/8" which seems pitifully thin.  The frame looks like it 
will accommodate 3/16, maybe 1/4.


PLEASE RESPOND TO 
msmit...@columbus.rr.com


> On Jul 26, 2017, at 10:14 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
> wrote:
> 
> Yep, that's the thread.
> 
> Just an update, in addition to MD Building Products, Frost King and a couple 
> others now make the black HDPM "D" shaped weather seal.  I think I even saw 
> some at Walmart the other day.
> 
> Just cut new lenses from Polycarbonate or acrylic.  Clean the old frames and 
> apply the "D" seal.  Lately I've been putting the joint at the bottom and 
> cutting it at 90 degrees.  There are arguments for putting the joint at on 
> end or at the top.  Also, heard folks cut it on a 45.  I don't think it 
> matters much.
> 
> Place the lens in and, starting from the top middle install the spline.  
> Lubricate the spline with diluted dish washing soap and use a wooden or 
> plastic implement to push it into the groove.  Just make sure you get it all 
> the way into the groove.  Not important for sealing, just for making sure it 
> doesn't decide to worm its way out.  The "D" seal is what keeps the water out.
> 
> Don't mess with the frame.  It probably doesn't leak so don't fix it.  In 
> nearly 2 decades of C ownership and discussion lists and forums, I don't 
> recall a case of the frames leaking.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
>> On Wed, Jul 26, 2017 at 8:31 PM, Rick Taillieu via CnC-List 
>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>> Here is the link Mark.
>> 
>> http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/2010-October/035503.html
>> 
>> 
>> -Original Message-
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mark
>> Smith via CnC-List
>> Sent: July-26-17 22:03
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: Mark Smith
>> Subject: Stus-List I need help with portlights
>> 
>> 
>> Can somebody point me to a thread discussing replacement of old style
>> aluminum framed portlights?
>> I have a 1977 C 30 Mark 1.  The portlights were replaced previously by the
>> PO and I don't think they were done correctly, so I don't have a reference
>> to go by to do it right.  Are there any diagrams showing how the plexiglas
>> fits into the frame, where caulk should be applied, and how the gasketing
>> should fit (ie, I need a cross-section drawing of the window construction so
>> I can do it right).
>> I'm not trying to be lazy,  but I can't figure out how to search these
>> archives.
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
>> ---
>> This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
>> http://www.avg.com
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List I need help with portlights

[Mark Smith via CnC-List]

Can somebody point me to a thread discussing replacement of old style aluminum 
framed portlights?
I have a 1977 C 30 Mark 1.  The portlights were replaced previously by the PO 
and I don't think they were
done correctly, so I don't have a reference to go by to do it right.  Are there 
any diagrams showing how the plexiglas
fits into the frame, where caulk should be applied, and how the gasketing 
should fit (ie, I need a cross-section drawing of the
window construction so I can do it right).
I'm not trying to be lazy,  but I can't figure out how to search these archives.


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!