Re: Stus-List Tell me about the 35 MKIII-CB

2018-01-16 Thread Mike Casey via CnC-List
The C&C 35MKIII model had an issue with the attachment of the keel. Not
all, but some. Very serious, check it out.


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On Tue, Jan 16, 2018 at 2:37 PM, Sean Richardson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Calling on the collective C&C brain trust!
>
>
>
> I’m giving serious consideration to a 35 MKIII CB and would appreciate any
> advice on what to look out for with the MKIII in general as well specifics
> of the center board version if anyone has any.
>
>
>
> The boat is single owner freshwater and by all accounts so far appears to
> be in very good condition. She checks off many of the requirement boxes for
> our next boat but I’m a little torn on the CB with main concerns being how
> it effects performance/stability as well as required maintenance.
>
>
>
> I’ve heard the center board version is quite tender. We eventually plan to
> sail out the St. Lawrence to the Maritimes one summer, park the boat, then
> return the following season to continue on down the US East coast (ICW) to
> Florida then on to the Bahamas. The board up shallow draft will be good for
> the ICW and Bahamas portion but how would this boat fare in the more
> challenging conditions of the St Lawrence and Maritimes?
>
>
>
> My other concern is access to the centerboard area for maintenance.  I
> would assume the slot and pivot area will require frequent attention to
> clean marine growth and avoid jamming the board in either the up or down
> position. And how difficult would it be if one had to replace the SS
> lifting strop with the boat in the water?
>
>
>
> The more I think about the center board the more troubles I see down the
> road.
>
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Re: Stus-List 1981 C&C 36' - Fresh Water Tank Replacement

2018-01-11 Thread Mike Casey via CnC-List
*Re: fixing water tanks:*

You do not need the TAP stuff, just use West System epoxy. You have to
pre-heat with the torch as he says. I used some glass cloth and it has
worked fine. You have nothing to lose.

Mike Casey
Halifax, Nova Scotia
C&C 30 1980


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On Thu, Jan 11, 2018 at 2:18 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Just stumbled on this saved video on repairing polyethylene, not sure this
> was the string talking about it or not . ..
>
>
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=h-9yhanz5DE
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Bill Coleman
>
> C&C 39 Erie, PA[image: animated_favicon1]
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Tim
> Rutherford via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, January 10, 2018 9:04 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Tim Rutherford
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List 1981 C&C 36' - Fresh Water Tank Replacement
>
>
>
> Hi Steve,
>
>
>
> I've asked my local boat yard for a quote and will let you know when I
> hear back from them. The tank on my boat is a Kracor model 1-5087, 19
> gallons, as indicated on the label on one of the tanks. Both appear to be
> identical. The label on the second tank is unreadable.
>
>
> --
> Tim Rutherford
> tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
> 813 748 4888 <(813)%20748-4888> cel/text
>
>
>
> On Tue, Jan 9, 2018 at 11:48 AM, Steve Thomas via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Same problem on my 36. Many leaking cracks. No reason to believe that
> welding them would not just result in new ones. Probably will try it
> anyway, but no confidence long term. Low molecular weight polyethylene.
> Space is narrow, long, and triangular.
> Not found a bladder tank that would be a good fit. Seems to me that an
> over large tank folded into the space would be a recipe for failure due to
> abrasion.
> Did Kracor give any guidance on their price?
>
> Steve Thomas
> C&C36
> Merritt Island, Fl
>
> 
>
>
>
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>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
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Re: Stus-List 1981 C&C 36' - Fresh Water Tank Replacement

2018-01-09 Thread Mike Casey via CnC-List
I sealed mine with West System epoxy. You have to gently heat the tank with
a propane torch just before applying.

Mike Casey
Halifax, NS
C&C 30

On Tue, Jan 9, 2018 at 12:48 PM, Steve Thomas via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Same problem on my 36. Many leaking cracks. No reason to believe that
> welding them would not just result in new ones. Probably will try it
> anyway, but no confidence long term. Low molecular weight polyethylene.
> Space is narrow, long, and triangular.
> Not found a bladder tank that would be a good fit. Seems to me that an
> over large tank folded into the space would be a recipe for failure due to
> abrasion.
> Did Kracor give any guidance on their price?
>
> Steve Thomas
> C&C36
> Merritt Island, Fl
>
>  Tim Rutherford via CnC-List  wrote:
> Both 19 gallon tanks, port and starboard, are leaking in multiple
> locations. They are vee-bottom four sided tanks with recesses in the top
> where stiffeners under the cover plate fit. I tried plastic welding but the
> results were questionable in terms of reliability.
>
> The manufacturer, Kracor, says new ones can be made to order in 3-4 weeks
> if I contact a local boat yard to place the order. This sounds expensive
> and cumbersome.
>
> What are my other options? Is it easy to contact a local tank company and
> have a tank copied at a competitive cost and reasonable lead-time?
>
> --
> Tim Rutherford
> Chamamé
> C&C 36' - #244
> tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
> 813 748 4888 cel/text
>
>
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>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
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Re: Stus-List Small lead weight "sewn" into anchor rode?

2018-01-07 Thread Mike Casey via CnC-List
Probably kellets? Used at that end to keep the line horizontal to the
bottom for better holding?
Mike Casey
C&C 30, 1980
Halifax, NS


On Sat, Jan 6, 2018 at 6:50 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> On both of my old anchor rodes, there is a small (6 oz or so) lead weight
> with a line through the middle, with the line on both ends woven into the
> rode so that the weight stays held up against the line in place.  On one
> line, the weight is about 10 feet from the end connected to the chain.  On
> the other one, it is more like 20 feet.
>
> What would be the purpose of these small weights?
>
> Thanks for the insight,
>
> Bruce Whitmore
> 1994 C&C 37/40+, "Astralis"
> Madiera Beach, FL
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>
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>
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Stus-List Solar panel - how to hook one up?

2017-12-30 Thread Mike Casey via CnC-List
I have just taken the Power and Sail Squadron Marine Electronics course. If
you can take it, I would urge you to do so. It has to be one of the best
courses I have taken.

I bought a solar panel for my C&C 30. I can attach it to the boat fine, but
hooking it up so it can recharge the batteries is a mystery.

Is there anyone out there who can give me some good instructions that I can
understand?

My specifics are:

There are three batteries (one starting, two house) that have to be charged
It has to be on all the time
It needs the charge controller to be entered into the equation somewheres.

Assistance would be greatly appreciated!

Mike Casey
Halifax, Nova Scotia
C&C 30 1980
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Re: Stus-List C&C Photo Album owners database - now advice on C&C 36

2017-12-12 Thread Mike Casey via CnC-List
Thank you! Where are you located?

On Tue, Dec 12, 2017 at 2:56 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I too singlehand my 35 without a second thought. I can’t see a real
> difference between a 30, 35, and 36 that wouldn’t be swamped by the
> individual boat’s rigging. I have a furling jib, autopilot, and asym rig
> for my chute. This would make my boat easier to handle alone than a stock
> C&C 30.
>
> The C&C 30 is famously the stiffest boat C&C ever made, so you might find
> a 36 needing more attention to sail trim and reefing. Also note loads are
> higher on a bigger boat. Once again though, it comes down to how that boat
> is rigged.
>
>
>
>
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
> C&C 35 MK I
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Dennis
> C. via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, December 12, 2017 1:29 PM
> *To:* CnClist 
> *Cc:* Dennis C. 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List C&C Photo Album owners database - now advice on
> C&C 36
>
>
>
> Excepting entering or leaving a slip, the ease of singlehanding is more
> dependent on how the boat is rigged rather than its size.  I routinely
> singlehand my 35-1 for both day sails and transits.  All halyards are run
> aft to the cockpit and I have a wheel pilot.
>
>
>
> Now, for the docking part.  Touche's home is a nice, protected slip with 4
> point mooring and midships pilings.  Wind and current play little part in
> docking. It's fairly easy to dock by myself.  I dock stern in and use
> propwalk to pull the stern into the slip.
>
>
>
> Touche's current transient slip is a different story.  It's a floating
> pier with double slips which have no midships piling.  If the wind is
> blowing the boat away from the finger pier, there is nothing to prevent it
> from getting blown into the boat in the neighboring slip.  To complicate
> matters, the finger pier is on the starboard side.  When docking bow in,
> putting the engine in reverse pulls the stern to port, away for the finger
> pier.  It can be a challenge at times to get the boat in the slip, scramble
> from the steering station, leap unto the dock and tie it up with both the
> wind and the propwalk working to pull the boat away from the finger pier.
>
>
>
> Just something to think about.
>
>
>
> Dennis C.
>
> Touche' 35-1 #83
>
> Mandeville, LA
>
>
>
> I am thinking of a 1978 C&C 36. Can anyone give me any intelligence on
> these boats?
>
>
>
> I currently have a C&C 30. I like how stiff it is. Would anyone know how
> the C&C 36 would compare?
>
>
>
> I'll be using it for coastal cruising in Nova Scotia.
>
>
>
> Would it be too much to handle for an old guy (65 years of age).
>
>
>
> Any comments would be appreciated.
>
>
>
> Thank you.
>
>
>
> Mike Casey
>
> Halifax, Nova Scotia
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List C&C Photo Album owners database - now advice on C&C 36

2017-12-12 Thread Mike Casey via CnC-List
Thank you very much. It's highly unlikely that I'll be sailing solo, as the
Admiral is usually along. Your comments about how it is rigged up are spot
on. Thanks!

On Tue, Dec 12, 2017 at 2:29 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Excepting entering or leaving a slip, the ease of singlehanding is more
> dependent on how the boat is rigged rather than its size.  I routinely
> singlehand my 35-1 for both day sails and transits.  All halyards are run
> aft to the cockpit and I have a wheel pilot.
>
> Now, for the docking part.  Touche's home is a nice, protected slip with 4
> point mooring and midships pilings.  Wind and current play little part in
> docking. It's fairly easy to dock by myself.  I dock stern in and use
> propwalk to pull the stern into the slip.
>
> Touche's current transient slip is a different story.  It's a floating
> pier with double slips which have no midships piling.  If the wind is
> blowing the boat away from the finger pier, there is nothing to prevent it
> from getting blown into the boat in the neighboring slip.  To complicate
> matters, the finger pier is on the starboard side.  When docking bow in,
> putting the engine in reverse pulls the stern to port, away for the finger
> pier.  It can be a challenge at times to get the boat in the slip, scramble
> from the steering station, leap unto the dock and tie it up with both the
> wind and the propwalk working to pull the boat away from the finger pier.
>
> Just something to think about.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> I am thinking of a 1978 C&C 36. Can anyone give me any intelligence on
> these boats?
>
> I currently have a C&C 30. I like how stiff it is. Would anyone know how
> the C&C 36 would compare?
>
> I'll be using it for coastal cruising in Nova Scotia.
>
> Would it be too much to handle for an old guy (65 years of age).
>
> Any comments would be appreciated.
>
> Thank you.
>
> Mike Casey
> Halifax, Nova Scotia
>
>
>>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List C&C Photo Album owners database

2017-12-12 Thread Mike Casey via CnC-List
I am thinking of a 1978 C&C 36. Can anyone give me any intelligence on
these boats?

I currently have a C&C 30. I like how stiff it is. Would anyone know how
the C&C 36 would compare?

I'll be using it for coastal cruising in Nova Scotia.

Would it be too much to handle for an old guy (65 years of age).

Any comments would be appreciated.

Thank you.

Mike Casey
Halifax, Nova Scotia

On Mon, Dec 11, 2017 at 10:18 PM, Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Thank you Stu, will remember that for later.
> Brad
> C&C 33 MKII
> Lake Huron
>
> Anything worth doing requires sails!~~~_/)~~~
>
> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List 30-1 Mast Step Support Rebuild Project Write-Up

2017-12-11 Thread Mike Casey via CnC-List
What a fantastic story and great technical guide. The PO of my boat did
this, but it was a bit of a mystery and I have never checked what he did. I
will now.
Your guide should be put in the technical part of the cncphotoalbum.

Mike Casey
C&C 30 1980 #636
Halifax, Nova Scotia
Canada

On Sun, Dec 10, 2017 at 11:01 PM, Randy Stafford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> So, an update on this, almost eight months later (after a full season of
> racing and sailing on the new mast step supports).
>
> Since it was sunny and 60 degrees again in Denver yesterday, I went down
> to the boat and pulled the mast step to inspect underneath.  At the end of
> my write-up, linked below, I put a section titled “Did it Work?”  I think I
> can now say with confidence that yes, it did work.  The new mast step
> supports, on inspection today, were still solid as rock.  The bond to the
> bilge shoulders is solid as rock.  The damn things are part of the boat
> now.  The last four photos at https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-
> NqAxQ6JxFTSzRLbFo0NDl6U1E are what it looked like after pulling the mast
> step today, after one season’s use.
>
> Some hard work last offseason, but worth it.  The boat needed it and
> deserved it.  This offseason I’ll adjust the location and shimming of the
> mast step slightly, to achieve better centering in the mast collar next
> year.
>
> Best Regards,
> Randy Stafford
> S/V Grenadine
> C&C 30-1 #7
> Ken Caryl, CO
>
> On Apr 26, 2017, at 3:39 PM, RANDY  wrote:
>
> Listers-
>
> I put a write-up of my mast step support rebuild project this spring at
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-NqAxQ6JxFTUlhmbUs4YTZlZnM.  It's an
> 8.5MB PDF because it has 23 pictures in it.  Hope it can be of as much help
> to the C&C community as the C&C community has been to me.
>
> Cheers,
> Randy Stafford
> S/V Grendine
> C&C 30-1 #7
> Ken Caryl, CO
>
>
>
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>
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Re: Stus-List C&C 40 for sale

2017-12-09 Thread Mike Casey via CnC-List
You guys are bad, very bad. You may in fact get delisted from the site if
your wives find out!


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On Sat, Dec 9, 2017 at 11:59 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Andy,
>  I've heard it advertised; "Boat or wife must go... $100K either one".
> Gary
> '90 C&C 37+
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>
> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
> On Sat, Dec 9, 2017 at 10:22 AM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Good morning, all. My wife has a web site up to help sell Peregrine.
>> I think I have her priced very reasonably (Peregrine, not my
>> wife...though, come to think of it...no...just Peregrine). I would be
>> interested in any input from the assembled group.
>> I will be sorry to part with her, but the new boat has extra cabins for
>> kids and parents that my wife wants. I hate to leave the fold, though.
>> Maybe Danny, Bruno, and I can show up at rendezvous as sort of auxiliary
>> C&Cs?
>> https://aburtonsailor.wixsite.com/peregrine
>>
>> Cheers
>> Andy
>> C&C 40
>> Peregrine
>>
>> Andrew Burton
>> 61 W Narragansett
>> Newport, RI
>> USA02840
>>
>> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
>> +401 965-5260
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
>>
>
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>
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>
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Re: Stus-List Split in keel.

2017-11-28 Thread Mike Casey via CnC-List
Hi there, when I was looking at a boat in Maine I noticed this on a boat
and the broker said it was because an anchor chain wrapped itself around
it. As long as it isn't structural, the expxy advise seems the bst.

Mike Casey
C&C 30 MKI
Halifax, NS

On Tue, Nov 28, 2017 at 12:56 PM, Brien Sadler via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I recently discovered this split in the trailing edge of my keel (photo
> provided via google drive link below). It looks as though  the split has
> exposed the lead of the keel. The rest of the keel looks fine. No evidence
> of any water intrusion of any kind in the keel to stub joint. No C&C smile
> at all. Has anyone seen anything like this or had to make this repair on
> their boat. This is my first season with her and I'd rather not get into a
> super expensive keel repair if I don't have to. My thoughts were inject
> with epoxy, cover with glass mat, sand, fair, and repaint. Any thoughts or
> advice would be greatly appreciated.
>
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BzW7COeyzYvZRTY5VFNtQWRlLUgtU
> nFianBxUmpOQXYtYThV
>
> Brien Sadler
> 1987 C&C 35-3
> Norwich, CT
>
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Re: Stus-List Number of MKI C&C 30's made?

2017-11-26 Thread Mike Casey via CnC-List
Interesting. Mine (#636) came with an Atomic Bomb, but the PO kindly
replaced it with a Yanmar.

On Sun, Nov 26, 2017 at 6:41 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Gary and Mike — my first boat was a 1981 30mkI, and the hull number was
> 677.  Gary, surely you and I have been on the list long enough for you to
> remember that…   :^)
>
> — Fred
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>
> On Nov 26, 2017, at 4:07 PM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> You are close to the end of the run. A guy named Curtiss has one in the
> low/mid 600’s in the Carolinas, and you and he are the only ones I have run
> across higher than 600. Kinda weird, as we know of numbers 1 and 7 and
> don’t seem to have a bunch in the 300’s to 400’s. Stu had an early one,
> don’t remember the number.
>
> Gary #593
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
> ] *On Behalf Of *Mike Casey via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Sunday, November 26, 2017 1:19 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Mike Casey 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Number of MKI C&C 30's made?
>
> Does anyone know how many C&C 30 MKI's were made? I have #636...anyone
> have one after that?
>
> Mike Casey
> C&C 30 MKI
>
>
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>
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Stus-List Number of MKI C&C 30's made?

2017-11-26 Thread Mike Casey via CnC-List
Does anyone know how many C&C 30 MKI's were made? I have #636...anyone have
one after that?

Mike Casey
C&C 30 MKI
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Re: Stus-List Looking for a C&C 35 MKI

2017-11-24 Thread Mike Casey via CnC-List
Thank you. It looks like a beautiful yacht, but oddly enough I am looking
for a MKI. It is tempting though.

I have heard that the MKIII had construction issues where the keel is
attached. Have you heard about that? I would be interested in your comments.

Many thanks,

Mike Casey

On Fri, Nov 24, 2017 at 12:21 PM, David Jacobs via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Mike,
>
> My C&C35 MK3, located in Bristol, RI is available. The listing can be seen
> at
>
> http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1984/C%26C-35-MKIII-
> 3131373/Bristol/RI/United-States#.WhhGfs33NOU.email
> <http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1984/C&C-35-MKIII-3131373/Bristol/RI/United-States#.WhhGfs33NOU.email>
>
>
> Best Regards,
>
> Dave J
> Saltaire
> C&C35 MK3
> Bristol, RI
>
>
> On Nov 18, 2017, at 5:49 PM, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Mike. There is one at the Miramar Yacht club in Brooklyn, NY that was
> owned by an excellent sailor who was the club champion.  Very fast and good
> condition.  Good price.  Owner Is Irv Shapiro.  Club info is
>
> Tel:  (718) 769 - 3548
> Email: s...@miramaryc.com
> Contact me if you want more information not.  Jerry
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Nov 18, 2017, at 4:48 PM, Mike Casey via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hi folks, it's probably the wrong time of year for this, but if anyone
> knows of a C&C 35 MKI for sale, would you please let me know?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mike Casey
>
> ___
>   Jerry
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Nov 18, 2017, at 4:48 PM, Mike Casey via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hi folks, it's probably the wrong time of year for this, but if anyone
> knows of a C&C 35 MKI for sale, would you please let me know?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mike Casey
>
> __
>
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Re: Stus-List Fixing leaky portlights

2017-11-21 Thread Mike Casey via CnC-List
I have used 4200 with very good success.

On Tue, Nov 21, 2017 at 7:28 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hola Scott.
>
> I am getting ready to do the same thing on my boat for the second time.
> It’s a 1982 vintage 37’ which has four ports as opposed to two like yours.
>
> I replaced the originals around 1998 and have these observations:
>
> 1.) I took the originals into a shop that re-created the originals, right
> down to the tint.
>
> 2.) Per their advice I used silicone to attach and seal the new ports. I
> will _never_ do that again.
>
> 3.) As far as tint is concerned, don’t make it too difficult; go with any
> shade that you are comfortable with.
>
> What’s going on now:
> I just dropped off my second set of ports off to be duplicated. I took
> their recommendation on tint color (“it’s what everyone uses...”). No
> matter what shade you use, it will not mask the difference between the rim
> and the opening. You will see through it. If you are using silicone...
>
> They recommended silicone yet again. I ignored that. I will use VHB this
> time around. Silicone to “finish” the gap per Boatworks example.
>
> I will be picking the new ports up at the end of this month (I’m currently
> in Punta del Este, UR) and then I will install them. The ambient
> temperatures in my area will be in the low fifties to high forties
> Fahrenheit. I have no concerns about temperature.
>
> I would not worry about “curvature” issues. That was not a problem the
> first time I did the job.
>
> As far as finishing the fiberglass surround after hacking out the Plexus,
> I have no words of wisdom. I am totally rebuilding my boat and the port
> openings have been completely repaired and painted. You might want to use
> some Awlfair to smooth the surface and then paint it. The VHB seems to be a
> fairly good masking background from the examples I have seen. If you want
> to see pictures, Google “Ronin Rebuild”.
>
> IMHO, do not even think about drilling holes or using screws.
>
> Keep it simple. ;-)
>
> Cheers,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C&C 37 - “Ronin”
> Reedville, VA
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Nov 21, 2017, at 18:59, Scott Baker via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Hi All,
>
> I am still really new in this group and I’ve not really figured out how to
> search through the archives to find the advice I need.
>
> I know this topic has probably been exhausted on here, but I need to
> replace my portlights on my 1987 35MKIII.
>
> Some background and my questions:
>
> ~My boat has 2 windows on each side, but they still have a slight
> curvature in them.
>
> ~I’ve watched Andy’s Youtube Video where he uses VHB (Very High Bond) Tape
> from 3M to install similar portlights. (although no curvature)
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MQyjxVUskd8&index=2&list=
> PLV97GZkHhpHMFb660AAGO4PuRKJPmHxDS
>
> ~I like Andy’s install method but obviously I’m worried about the
> curvature issue. Can I induce curve into the windows before I mount them?
> If I brace them in place I fear they will pop back “flat” again later?
> Solutions?
>
> ~I’m afraid of using screws or through bolts in the mounting proceedures
> because of the expansion issues etc… Is this a stupid fear?
>
> ~I’ve done enough scoping around to learn that everyone seems to have a
> different opinion of what the best material is to make new windows out of.
> Andy points us towards a specific material and source on his website.
>
> ~I’d like my new windows to be tinted, it seems this would make it hard to
> see in and also hide the flange in case it gets mucked up… Yes?
>
> ~I cannot find a good explanation of the best method to remove the old
> windows.
>
> ~I think many use the old windows as templates to make the new ones… so
> therefore they must be removing them intact? Has anyone mastered the
> removal of these windows without hacking everything up?
>
> ~My boat is on the hard and inside a huge shed now in Upstate, NY… Do I
> need to wait until it’s really warm to do this? Maybe I work on removing
> the old windows and cleaning up the mounting areas and put new ones in in
> the spring?
>
> Can someone point me in the right direction to find all the answers?
>
> If there is a trick to locating past chats about all this on the C&C site,
> I’d love to be edumacated!
>
> Sorry for beating this dead horse.
>
> ~Scott Baker
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Sail Drives in general > Maintenance?

2017-11-21 Thread Mike Casey via CnC-List
I would never have one. The more changes in direction you have in a
mechanical device the more complicated it becomes. In one instance here the
yard got a strap around it when taking the boat out of the water. I need
not explain the result.

Mike Casey
C&C 30 1980

On Tue, Nov 21, 2017 at 10:41 AM, Nauset Beach via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Am beginning to look for the “next” boat [this winter’s armchair boat
> project vs. the real ones] and have come across some that have sail drives,
> though most are traditional shaft drives.
>
>
>
> What is the group’s experience with sail drives from any engine builder?
> Google has revealed Volvo and Yanmar have the bulk of the market and sail
> drives are becoming the rule vs. the exception on newer boats over the past
> 10 years or so.  While they are reported to be quieter / less vibration
> than traditional shafts, from what I have read  the maintenance beyond
> changing the oil in the drive unit annually [just as one would for the
> engine] is not really a DIY project.  Replacing the 2 seals, particularly
> the one keeping the water out of the boat, sounds like they are a yard job
> – and expensive ones at that; on the order of $2 - $5k depending on the
> location of the yard.  And the “recommended” seal replacement interval is
> reported at every 5 to 7 years…   While many owners may go well beyond
> that, what happens to an insurance claim if one has exceeded the
> manufacturer’s “recommended service” interval?
>
>
>
> Any experience / information with sail drives is appreciated.
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Brian
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Rod
> Stright via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, November 21, 2017 7:21 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Rod Stright 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Volvo Penta Sail Drive
>
>
>
> Anyone out there have any experience at replacing a Volvo Penta Sail Drive
> and transmission?  Recommendation on a good source for parts and expertise
> hopefully on the east coast.?
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
> Rod
>
> 2004 C&C 99
>
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Re: Stus-List Looking for a C&C 35 MKI

2017-11-19 Thread Mike Casey via CnC-List
Thank you for putting such good ideas into my head!

On Sun, Nov 19, 2017 at 5:07 PM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> Okay Mike.
>
> This reminds me of when Rich had his Landfall for sale in Halifax and the
> wife & I talked about having a boat on each coast. Common sense prevailed.
>
> But it is not as goofy as might be assumed if the situation can allow for
> maybe a retirement, then a couple of summers cruising the east coast,
> winter in the west with the second summer followed by a cruise to the
> Caribbean. A nice way to spend a few years eh.
>
> For east coaters the follow-up cruise would be to Mexico...
>
> Cheers, Russ
>
> At 06:03 PM 18/11/2017, you wrote:
>
> Regretfully  I live in Nova Scotia. There seem to be a lot of very well
> upgraded C&C 35's out there. Thanks!
>
> On Sat, Nov 18, 2017 at 9:09 PM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hi Mike,
>
> I have one for sale on the West Coast, Vancouver area.
>
> Good boat.
>
> Easy availability from Puget Sound to Alaska.
>
> Cheers, Russ
>
> Â 01:48 PM 18/11/2017, you wrote:
> Hi folks, it's probably the wrong time of year for this, but if anyone
> knows of a C&C 35 MKI for sale, would you please let me know?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mike Casey
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> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Re: Stus-List Looking for a C&C 35 MKI

2017-11-18 Thread Mike Casey via CnC-List
Regretfully  I live in Nova Scotia. There seem to be a lot of very well
upgraded C&C 35's out there. Thanks!

On Sat, Nov 18, 2017 at 9:09 PM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> Hi Mike,
>
> I have one for sale on the West Coast, Vancouver area.
>
> Good boat.
>
> Easy availability from Puget Sound to Alaska.
>
> Cheers, Russ
>
>  01:48 PM 18/11/2017, you wrote:
>
>> Hi folks, it's probably the wrong time of year for this, but if anyone
>> knows of a C&C 35 MKI for sale, would you please let me know?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Mike Casey
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>
>
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Stus-List Looking for a C&C 35 MKI

2017-11-18 Thread Mike Casey via CnC-List
Hi folks, it's probably the wrong time of year for this, but if anyone
knows of a C&C 35 MKI for sale, would you please let me know?

Thanks,

Mike Casey
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Re: Stus-List Bimini for C&C 30 MKI

2017-11-18 Thread Mike Casey via CnC-List
Yes, sorry, Genco.


Virus-free.
www.avg.com

<#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>

On Sat, Nov 18, 2017 at 10:51 AM, Doug Welch via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Genco dodgers, bimini, enclosures, covers etc are top quality.  We are
> very happy with the full enclosure on our 33-2.
>
> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
> 
>
> On Fri, 17 Nov 2017 at 5:54 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List
>  wrote:
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Stus-List Bimini for C&C 30 MKI

2017-11-17 Thread Mike Casey via CnC-List
Hi folks, I see some threads on this. If you have one from enco, are you
happy with the results?
Thanks,
Mike Casey
C&C 30 1980 #636


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Stus-List My email

2017-11-17 Thread Mike Casey via CnC-List
islandpacketrac...@gmail.com


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Stus-List Post to the list

2015-12-21 Thread Mike Casey via CnC-List
Hi folks,

I bought a C&C 30 this past summer. I have been able to figure everything
out except the full cockpit enclosure. It is Sunbrella and comes in a small
bag. It attaches to the bimini, after the boom is clipped to the toe rail.
I can see where it goes back and there are slots for the twin back stay.
There are two I would say 10 foot ling plastic strips. One it appears goes
across the back end through loops.

All that is good, but I'll be darned if I can figure out how to hang it
from something so that it stays well above the cockpit.

No stainless poles as normally found in dodgers came with it.

Any C&C owner with a main sheet that is not on the cabin top may be able to
help me out with this.

Any thoughts??

Thanks,

Mike Casey
Halifax, Nova Scotia
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Re: Stus-List C&C30-1 climb to top of mast?

2015-06-06 Thread Mike Casey via CnC-List
You use two halyards; you go up on the main; the jib is used as a spare.
Don't use the clips; tie bowlines.

On Sat, Jun 6, 2015 at 10:16 PM, Chuck Borge via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Jay,
> I'm around 225 and just did it on my C&C34. And years ago was the go-to
> guy on a J30.  Scary that on that crew, I was both youngest and lightest...
> Yikes.
> Not a bad ride, just have a good chair, and good guys in the winch.
> Good luck,
> Chuck B
> C&C34 Elusive
> Somerset, MA
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Jun 6, 2015, at 8:57 PM, Kirkpatrick, Jay via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> ‎I'd like to replace my windex with a new one, but don't want to drop the
> mast to do it.
> On larger boats we send someone up the mast to retrieve halyards etc, but
> has anyone done this on a 30-1?
> I wonder if 200lbs at the top to install a new windex is too much of a
> risk of damage or injury. Has anyone lived to tell the story?
> Cheers,
> Jay
>
>
>  ___
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