Stus-List list removal?

[Richard Walter via CnC-List]

Greetings,
Can I please have my email address removed from the CnC-list? 
Thank you, Richard J. Walter 

Re: Stus-List In CT Dodger builder

[Richard Walter via CnC-List]

Jim Funk The Canvas Works in Mystic. Very high quality, attention to detail,  
and superb customer service. 
https://www.manta.com/c/mm0bj6g/the-canvas-works

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Thu, Aug 24, 2017 at 11:54 AM, Bill Bina - gmail via 
CnC-List wrote:   
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Stus-List wheel squeak

[Richard Walter via CnC-List]

Greetings, 
The wheel on our 1978 36-footer has always squeaked to varying degrees. Anyone 
found a solution to squeaky wheels? When it comes to getting grease, I cannot 
locate a grease fitting (Zerc). Anyone added one? 
Thank you,Richard s/v INDIGO ___

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Re: Stus-List stern light (bulb socket slipped out of fixture)

[Richard Walter via CnC-List]

So...any suggestions how to access the stern light fixture from the INSIDE of 
the transom?? 

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Thu, Aug 17, 2017 at 3:54 PM, Richard Walter via 
CnC-List<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:   
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Stus-List stern light (bulb socket slipped out of fixture)

[Richard Walter via CnC-List]

Ahoy! 
I changed the bulb. Yay! However, the wire and socket and now-working bulb 
slipped out from the transom fixture and into the bilge (naturally!). 
I fished it out the bulb and wire through the quarterberth. I cannot see a way 
to get to the inside of the transom. 
Help! 
Richard Walters/v INDIGO   
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Stus-List changing stern light

[Richard Walter via CnC-List]

Ahoy! 
Bulb is out(?) in the stern running light. 1) what is the the bulb for an OEM 
1978 36-footer? 2) suggestions for swapping the bulb while we're in the water? 
I'm thinking of taping the frame, etc. to the transom to try to minimize 
dropping pieces overboard. 3) wait till the boat's on the hard? 
Thanks, Richard Walter s/v INDIGO ___

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Re: Stus-List Tasco marine stove overhaul

[Richard Walter via CnC-List]

Hi John! 
We'd like the igniter in the oven checked/replaced; and the burgers have come 
loose (bigger sheet-metal screws?). 
Richard 

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Tue, Aug 8, 2017 at 1:09 PM, John Read via CnC-List 
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Stus-List Tasco marine stove overhaul

[Richard Walter via CnC-List]

Ahoy We had our Tasco marine stove overhauled by Tasco about 12 years ago. It 
is time to overhaul again and, of course, Tasco no longer services marine 
stoves(!). Any suggestions who would provide this service? We are located in 
Rhode Island. Thank you, Richard Walter s/v INDIGO  
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Re: Stus-List windlass for our 1978 36-foot?

[Richard Walter via CnC-List]

So will a vertical manual windlass raise an anchor faster than the horizontal? 

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Sat, Aug 5, 2017 at 4:55 PM, Josh Muckley via 
CnC-List wrote:   
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Re: Stus-List windlass for our 1978 36-foot?

[Richard Walter via CnC-List]

This??

http://www.lofrans.com/product/4-Lofrans-horizontal-anchor-windlass/5015-royal
 

On Saturday, August 5, 2017 1:18 PM, Richard Walter via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
 

 Wow! I'd better budget a LNG time to raise the anchor! 

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Sat, Aug 5, 2017 at 1:03 PM, Richard Walter<sailind...@yahoo.com> wrote:   
Thank you Josh. I will look into a manual windlass (currently I'M the manual 
windlass!). 
Where on the foredeck should any windlass be placed? 
Richard 

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Sat, Aug 5, 2017 at 11:36 AM, Josh Muckley via 
CnC-List<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:   My suggestion is to go with a manual 
windlass.  It will save a considerable amount of money and problems over the 
years to come.  Getting power to the windlass will require heavy gage wiring to 
carry the requisite current or instead a dedicated battery in/near the anchor 
locker.  Corrosion on the terminals, wires and motor internals regularly 
plagues electric windlasses.
They are hard to find but ebay occasionally has AnchorMan manual windlasses for 
about $250.  Even less common is the Muir 500 manual for about $500.
Josh MuckleyS/V Sea Hawk1989 C 37+Solomons, MD
On Aug 5, 2017 9:53 AM, "Richard Walter via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote:

Ahoy! 
Any suggestions for adding a power windlass for our 1978 36-foot? In 
particular, what is good placement considering the anchor locker cover is 
prominent in the foredeck? 
Thank you, Richards/v INDIGO Watch Hill 
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Re: Stus-List windlass for our 1978 36-foot?

[Richard Walter via CnC-List]

Wow! I'd better budget a LNG time to raise the anchor! 

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Sat, Aug 5, 2017 at 1:03 PM, Richard Walter<sailind...@yahoo.com> wrote:   
Thank you Josh. I will look into a manual windlass (currently I'M the manual 
windlass!). 
Where on the foredeck should any windlass be placed? 
Richard 

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Sat, Aug 5, 2017 at 11:36 AM, Josh Muckley via 
CnC-List<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:   My suggestion is to go with a manual 
windlass.  It will save a considerable amount of money and problems over the 
years to come.  Getting power to the windlass will require heavy gage wiring to 
carry the requisite current or instead a dedicated battery in/near the anchor 
locker.  Corrosion on the terminals, wires and motor internals regularly 
plagues electric windlasses.
They are hard to find but ebay occasionally has AnchorMan manual windlasses for 
about $250.  Even less common is the Muir 500 manual for about $500.
Josh MuckleyS/V Sea Hawk1989 C 37+Solomons, MD
On Aug 5, 2017 9:53 AM, "Richard Walter via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote:

Ahoy! 
Any suggestions for adding a power windlass for our 1978 36-foot? In 
particular, what is good placement considering the anchor locker cover is 
prominent in the foredeck? 
Thank you, Richards/v INDIGO Watch Hill 
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stumurray

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Re: Stus-List windlass for our 1978 36-foot?

[Richard Walter via CnC-List]

Thank you Josh. I will look into a manual windlass (currently I'M the manual 
windlass!). 
Where on the foredeck should any windlass be placed? 
Richard 

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Sat, Aug 5, 2017 at 11:36 AM, Josh Muckley via 
CnC-List<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:   My suggestion is to go with a manual 
windlass.  It will save a considerable amount of money and problems over the 
years to come.  Getting power to the windlass will require heavy gage wiring to 
carry the requisite current or instead a dedicated battery in/near the anchor 
locker.  Corrosion on the terminals, wires and motor internals regularly 
plagues electric windlasses.
They are hard to find but ebay occasionally has AnchorMan manual windlasses for 
about $250.  Even less common is the Muir 500 manual for about $500.
Josh MuckleyS/V Sea Hawk1989 C 37+Solomons, MD
On Aug 5, 2017 9:53 AM, "Richard Walter via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote:

Ahoy! 
Any suggestions for adding a power windlass for our 1978 36-foot? In 
particular, what is good placement considering the anchor locker cover is 
prominent in the foredeck? 
Thank you, Richards/v INDIGO Watch Hill 
__ _

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stumurray

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___

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___

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Stus-List windlass for our 1978 36-foot?

[Richard Walter via CnC-List]

Ahoy! 
Any suggestions for adding a power windlass for our 1978 36-foot? In 
particular, what is good placement considering the anchor locker cover is 
prominent in the foredeck? 
Thank you, Richards/v INDIGO Watch Hill ___

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Re: Stus-List snatch block details?

[Richard Walter via CnC-List]

Thanks to all for the great advice!

After 30+ years, perhaps it is time for replacements?

Can anyone comment on the working load capacity needed for jib sheets for a 
36-foot boat? We're not racing. I'm fond of Garhauer gear ($$!).Garhauer Marine 
Hardware -15595735
  
|  
|   |  
Garhauer Marine Hardware -15595735
 Garhauer is now standard equipment from many U.S. boat builders including 
Catalina Yachts the largest boat build...  |  |

  |

 
Thank you,Richard
 

On Thursday, August 4, 2016 6:59 PM, schiller via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
 

  After I disassembly mine (7 original with the boat), I put the sheaves and 
rollers in my ultrasonic reloading cleaner at 160 degrees F and ran it for 30 
minutes.  All cleaned up good.  Put them all back together with a good amount 
of winch grease.  I expect they will be good for another 25 years.  I found 
mine collection to be a mix of plain bearings and roller bearings plus the two 
new Garhauer Marine Torlon Ball Bearing snatch blocks.
 
 Neil Schiller
 1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7
 (C 35, Mark I)
 "Corsair"
 White Lake, Michigan
 
 On 8/4/2016 4:08 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
  
  So far, you've gotten good advice.  They are Merriman blocks.  I've had 
good luck taking snatch blocks apart, cleaning and lubing them.  Do they have 
Allen head screws?
 
  Soak them in suggested solutions, dissaemble, clean and lube.  You may need 
to clean up the pin and hole with some ultra fine wet sanding.
 
  As an alternative, look on eBay.  There's usually a bunch for sale.
 
  Dennis C.
  Touche' 35-1 #83
  Mandeville, LA

 
   
 On Thu, Aug 4, 2016 at 1:34 PM, Richard Walter via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
 
   Greetings, 
  INDIGO has a set of heavy-duty snatch blocks for the jib sheets. The bodies 
are solid black  rummer and there is a trident stamp marking on the strap. 
  One of the block's shieves is seized; looks like it'll need new pins and 
possibly a new sheive. 
  Any ideas who may have made this block, are they still available, and where 
replacement parts may be  obtained?
 
 Thank you, Richard

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Stus-List holey drawer pull-y thingies?

[Richard Walter via CnC-List]

Greetings,
Who knows a source for parts/replacements/etc. for the drawer pulls on our 
1978-vintage C 36? Some of the springs and stuff are missing/broken.
Thank you,Richard
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Stus-List t-shirts?

[Richard Walter via CnC-List]

Ahoy,
My Stu's List C t-shirt gets heavy rotation and it is time for a replacement. 
Are there any available?

Richards/v INDIGO
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Stus-List Garmin 276C BlueChart upgrade? Replace?

[Richard Walter via CnC-List]

Ahoy!

We love our old Garmin 276C. It is time, however, to upgrade. Should we upgrade 
our BlueCharts? If so how? Or should we get a new GPS/chartplotter altogether? 
We have the Raymarine ST-60s on the boat already.
We sail NYC to Maine.

Thanks,Richard 
s/v INDIGO
Watch Hill
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