Stus-List Re: C Custom 52

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

I don't see a photo Is this a C 110 or a custom 52??

On Mon, Feb 5, 2024, 5:41 PM Joel Delamirande via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Is it still alive that boat
>
> Joel Delamirande
> *www.jdroofing.ca *
>
>
>
> On Mon, Feb 5, 2024 at 11:41 AM tjkoller--- via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi,
>>
>>
>>
>> I crewed on a custom C 52 in 1984 and 1986 owned by Ted Reese from
>> Michigan City, Indiana . We raced the Chicago to Mackinac Island Race on
>> Lake Michigan and won in 1984. It was a beautiful boat with a crew of 14. I
>> thought people might like to see a picture of the boat.
>>
>>
>>
>> Terry
>>
>>
>>
>> Terrence Koller
>>
>> Coyote
>>
>> C 110 Hull #52
>>
>>
>> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
>> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks for your help.
>> Stu
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: C owners need information

[RON CASCIATO via CnC-List]

Hi Dan, not sure if this helps but..some time ago after the factory closed,  South Shore Yachts in Toronto collected most of the boat files including something called a "build file".This file was specific to a single boat and was filed by the hull number.They made these files available to owners for $35-50.I have the one for my 38MKIIC and it is about 50 sheets long and details the build including drawings and, in my case, a 2 year later rework of the floor because of "flexing"?I think Rob Maclachlan finally transferred the remaining documents to the Marine Museum (I'm not sure of the exact name, but I do know that some listers have had positive corresoondence with them).Hopefully, someone here can fill in the missing info to contact them.Good luckRon C.Impromptu C 38MKII, #125, '77On Jun 25, 2022 6:47 AM, Dan via CnC-List  wrote:Hi all,Just sending a call out to only C owners who may have any records showing if their boats were built in Ontario or at the factory in Rhode Island? Any kind of builders plaque, builders certificate, an original receipt or even contact info for someone who has archives from when the factories closed down? (I know that's a long shot)Thanks so much!Dan CormierC BreakaweighHalifax NS / Florida

Stus-List Re: 37+ Polars

[RON CASCIATO via CnC-List]

Hi Rob, Not free, but Google ORR-EZ VALID LIST. This boat list will have your 37+.You search for your boat; in the left margin is a number, clicking on that will produce the ORR-EZ rating certificate.newer alternative to PHRF.ORR-EZ will also have a link to a new "performance package" which contains all the information you're looking fortables, charts, and an excellent set of instructions.Like I said, not free.$150.The real trick is to get the crew trained to use themGood luckRon C.ImpromtuC 38MKIIC. '77On Jun 16, 2022 7:43 AM, Rob Hamlin via CnC-List  wrote:Thanks Ken and an excellent reference for all things C 37/40 -RobSent from my iPhoneOn Jun 15, 2022, at 11:53 PM, Ken Heaton  wrote:Hi Rob,See page 35 of the C 37+ Owners Manual (77 pages with illustrations) for a Polar Diagram (not a table, sorry). There is a link to a downloadable copy of the C 37+ Owners Manual here: https://c-c-37-40.blogspot.com/p/blog-page_25.htmlKen HeatonS/V Salazar - Can 54955C 37/40 XL - Hull # 67Cape Breton Island, Nova ScotiaC 37/40 XL SalazarOn Wed, 15 Jun 2022 at 14:50, Rob Hamlin via CnC-List  wrote:Anyone have the polars in a table format?

Thanks
Rob


Sent from my iPhone

Stus-List Re: Forward hatch gasket needed

[RON CASCIATO via CnC-List]

Andrew, give Hatchmasters in Norwalk,  CT. a call.It's been a few years but they have the parts and rebuilt my A hatch nicely. Ron C.Impromptu38MKII, '77On Feb 12, 2022 9:01 PM, andrew macLean via CnC-List  wrote:
Atkins and Hoyle were really marvellous helping me find parts for the nearly 50 year old hatch on our 1974 30mk1. I’d start by calling them. 



Andrew MacLean

C 30-1

Gulf Islands BC Canada



> On Feb 12, 2022, at 10:51, Bob Mann via CnC-List  wrote:

> 

> 

> The foam gasket on my C mk I's forward hatch is coming apart. Can anyone suggest where I can find a replacement?  Nothing I've seen at hardware stores even comes close to what is already there.

> 

> regards,

> Bob Mann

> Mystic

> Detroit
On Feb 12, 2022 9:01 PM, andrew macLean via CnC-List  wrote:
Atkins and Hoyle were really marvellous helping me find parts for the nearly 50 year old hatch on our 1974 30mk1. I’d start by calling them. 



Andrew MacLean

C 30-1

Gulf Islands BC Canada



> On Feb 12, 2022, at 10:51, Bob Mann via CnC-List  wrote:

> 

> 

> The foam gasket on my C mk I's forward hatch is coming apart. Can anyone suggest where I can find a replacement?  Nothing I've seen at hardware stores even comes close to what is already there.

> 

> regards,

> Bob Mann

> Mystic

> Detroit
On Feb 12, 2022 9:01 PM, andrew macLean via CnC-List  wrote:
Atkins and Hoyle were really marvellous helping me find parts for the nearly 50 year old hatch on our 1974 30mk1. I’d start by calling them. 

Andrew MacLean
C 30-1
Gulf Islands BC Canada

> On Feb 12, 2022, at 10:51, Bob Mann via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> 
> The foam gasket on my C mk I's forward hatch is coming apart. Can anyone suggest where I can find a replacement?  Nothing I've seen at hardware stores even comes close to what is already there.
> 
> regards,
> Bob Mann
> Mystic
> Detroit

Stus-List Re: Sydney Hobart Race

[RON CASCIATO via CnC-List]

Hi Dennis.sort of, I usually get interested when they get further along.incidentally,  do we know where Comanche went??Ron C.On Dec 26, 2021 5:20 PM, "Dennis C. via CnC-List"  wrote:Anybody watching?https://rolexsydneyhobart.com/tracker/-- Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, LA
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Garboard

[RON CASCIATO via CnC-List]

Agreed, we did this on Impromptu almost 7-8 years ago. We drilled the hole a quarter inch below the floor of the bilge...FROM THE OUTSIDE!!!I think the diameter of the threaded piece is 1", I took it to Home Depot and found a male adapter that fitand pieced a 6" piece of PVC with a 45 degree angled endBilge drains dry and no water running down the keel.The drain unscrews out and the plug sits just under the hull surface.we swipe it with a dollop of Bondo and bottom paint.End of season, we just pick out the 1" circle of Bondo and screw the PVC drain back in.An easy DYI project....Ron Casciato ImpromptuC 38 MKII..'77On Nov 22, 2021 4:50 PM, WILLIAM WALKER via CnC-List  wrote:
Finally Did this 2 years ago..best thing ever did for the boat.  Look in archives, there is recent thread with good ideas Bill Walker





On Monday, November 22, 2021, 09:26:16 AM EST, Tom Sancton via CnC-List  wrote:



Looking at putting a garboard on my 35 mark 3. Has anyone done this? Looking at leaving my mast up but concerned about water entering the boat through the mast

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Rescue at sea.

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

Would you have made that trip; without an AIS device?  I suspect that the boat 
is easy to find.

 

From: Randal Stafford via CnC-List  
Sent: Thursday, July 1, 2021 12:37 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Randal Stafford 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Rescue at sea.

 

So I assume S/V Jenny is adrift somewhere in the North Atlantic?  It was tough 
to see her hull and spreaders banging into that tanker.  I wonder what will 
become of the boat - how long it can stay afloat, where it will end up.

 

I guess eventually the guy would have run out of water and provisions.

 

Cheers,

Randy





On Jun 30, 2021, at 12:46 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

We left Virginia 3 days after this guy!  

 

Bermuda requires a covid travel authorization and test, but I'm shocked they 
refused entry.  However, they are Covid-paranoid, as almost every case they 
have seen has been from a foreign traveler.

I know another sailor who was permitted entry to make repairs on his way to 
Puerto Rico this winter.

 

Wonder what the rest of the story is.

 

Joel

 


 

 

Virus-free.  

 www.avg.com 

 

On Wed, Jun 30, 2021 at 2:38 PM Steve Thomas via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Wow. 

Refused entry to the harbour. 

Not the Bermuda I remember. 

Steve Thomas

-- Original Message --
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: dave.god...@me.com  
Sent: Wednesday, June 30, 2021 1:20 PM
Subject: Stus-List Rescue at sea.

I’m posting this thread because there may those amongst the list that will find 
this interesting.

 

This post is somewhat C related because the subject of the video upgraded his 
boat near mine. He just did his upgrades with much more alacrity.

 

Kim is an acquaintance of mine, lives in the same town and has attended more 
than one of our annual Sock Burning Parties. I’ve assisted him with some of his 
projects. Prior to his setting sail for Bermuda, I worked along with another 
very experience offshore sailor (in the yard repainting his Valiant 42 with 
triple spreader carbon rig) to get him prepped and sorted away. The Valiant 
owner leant Kim his life raft. Having raced to Bermuda in the past Kim was keen 
for any insights that I could impart. I told him to stay away from the Swizzle 
Inn rum swizzles and take the round-abouts in a clock-wise direction...

 

I don’t have any insights or knowledge of events other than what is portrayed 
in the video and I’m not going to speculate. 

 

This voyage was a long-term dream of Kim’s. His boat is a mid-to-late 80’s 
Jeanneau, around 35 feet.

 

Rescue at Sea  

 

Regards,

Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
1998 Mast & Mallet Thomas Point 34 - Katana
Reedville, VA

 



Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu




 

-- 

Joel 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Mast Base Blocks

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

Also a big Garhauer fanI have their blocks on shackles like David, lines
led to deck organizers on each side and then back to the cockpit through
sheet stoppers before the winches on the cabin roof.  Those lines are always
under some tension and hold the blocks up nicely. 

 

This set up is a much better racing plan and keeps crew off the deck and
foredeck most of the time.  

 

3 jib halyards, 1 main halyard, 1 ASYM tack line (led from the bow), 1
outhaul, and 1 reef line, and 1 Garhauer Rigid vang line.

 

All lines run into the cabin through two flush Lewmar opening ports on the
bulkhead.  Replaced the instruments with the ports and it keeps the lines
out of the cockpit nicely as well.

 

All of the original  winches have been removed and deck faired smooth. 

 

Hard to beat Garhauer for quality and price.

 

Ron C.

Impromptu

C 38MKIIC  '77

 

From: David Knecht via CnC-List  
Sent: Friday, March 19, 2021 9:18 AM
To: CnC CnC discussion list 
Cc: David Knecht 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Mast Base Blocks

 

I also have all Garhauer, but on shackles attached to the perforated /collar
base.  Dave

 

https://www.garhauermarine.com/blocks/single-blocks/single-blocks-with-shack
le.html

 

S/V Aries

1990 C 34+

New London, CT








On Mar 19, 2021, at 8:49 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

Touche' has Garhauer half moon blocks attached to the mast:

 

https://www.garhauermarine.com/mast-boom/mast-blocks/half-moon-block-hm-1a-u
s.html

 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_sb5TfIENvsdTZpUEFRcjZ1SEE/view?usp=sharin
g

 

Attaching the blocks to the mast assures the load is carried by the mast,
not the deck.

 

  -- 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

On Fri, Mar 19, 2021 at 7:39 AM Danny Haughey via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Hello Again,

 

So, I'm considering replacing all the blocks for the mast base.  I currently
have 3 for halyards, 1 for mainsheet, 1 for boom furling line and 1 for
center board.

 

I'm was considering Schafer stainless because they look great but, I'm now
thinking, some kind of plastics would be better for when they fall against
the new paint.

 

I'm wondering if anyone has any recommendations about brands, quality vs
cost, etc...  

 

 

Thanks again,

Danny

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks -
Stu




 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks -
Stu

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C 40

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

HI Rod¨ There is a Flex-O-Fold specified for whatever Yanmar Sail drive
there is, I assume that they also cover Volvo.  I dealt with their rep in
Marblehead Mass.  Their current ad says that they fit all saildrive models.
The price seems to fall between $1295 - $1695 depending on diameter …….13”
to 18”..

 

Ron C.

 

From: Rod Stright via CnC-List  
Sent: Thursday, March 18, 2021 12:02 PM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: Rod Stright 
Subject: Stus-List Re: C 40

 

I Have a C 99 with the standard Volvo Penta saildrive.  Curious about the
Flex-O-Fold.  I had a max prop on my last boat and loved it.  Was the
Flex-O-Fold a direct fit for the sail drive and what was the approx. cost?

 

Thanks Rod 

 

From: Ron Casciato via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Sent: March-18-21 12:32 PM
To: 'Stus-List' mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Ron Casciato mailto:rjcasci...@comcast.net> >
Subject: Stus-List Re: C 40

 

Good Morning Joe:  a suggestion while you are compiling a list of costs and
differences.  Please include the estimate for replacement of the engine with
a Yanmar Saildrive.  I did that on my 38MKII almost 15 years ago on the
recommendation of Rob Ball, and it has worked flawlessly and needs much less
in service.  I used the Yanmar 3YM30 with the SD20 Saildrive, and it comes
with the mounting sled that you just glass into the bottom of the boat.  The
sail drive works like an outboard, and other than regularly changing out the
engine oil, that lower unit gets changed every few years.  I installed a
Flex-O-Fold 2 blade prop and this boat not only goes faster than the old
Volvo with the 2 blade  Martec  but it backs down almost dead straight.  The
bonus is that the Yanmar weighs almost 100lbs less than the Volvo did. 

 

My installation was just short of 10K, and there’s no more shaft, shaft
seal, etc.   

Just a thought before you commit to either one.

 

Best,

 

Ron C.

Impromptu C 38MKIIC

Mass.

 

 

From: Joe Della Barba via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Sent: Thursday, March 18, 2021 10:59 AM
To: 'Stus-List' mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: j...@dellabarba.com <mailto:j...@dellabarba.com> 
Subject: Stus-List C 40

 

Would buying a C 40 with an original engine be a good idea in 2021? 

We are running some numbers here and it is basically a choice between
upgrading and replacing. Coquina is 48 years old now and it is time to do
some $$$ upgrades or buy another boat with much of the work done. We found a
used C 40 that looks gorgeous below, the interior beats most used boats of
that era. She seems in good shape, but the engine is original with 3,000+
hours. An Atomic 4 per the manual should be rebuilt at 3,000 hours if FWC, a
raw water cooled version would be very lucky to get that far in salt water.
The Yanmar is FWC. I frequently hear that diesels can last 10,000 hours, but
then again a significant number of boats from that era are for sale with new
engines.

Also re the rod rigging – the mast is out for the winter. With the rigging
easily accessed, what would the cost be of a rigging inspection to assure
that the rod is still good.

Thanks!

 

 

 

Joe Della Barba

Coquina C 35 MK I

Kent Island MD USA

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C 40

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

Good Morning Joe:  a suggestion while you are compiling a list of costs and
differences.  Please include the estimate for replacement of the engine with
a Yanmar Saildrive.  I did that on my 38MKII almost 15 years ago on the
recommendation of Rob Ball, and it has worked flawlessly and needs much less
in service.  I used the Yanmar 3YM30 with the SD20 Saildrive, and it comes
with the mounting sled that you just glass into the bottom of the boat.  The
sail drive works like an outboard, and other than regularly changing out the
engine oil, that lower unit gets changed every few years.  I installed a
Flex-O-Fold 2 blade prop and this boat not only goes faster than the old
Volvo with the 2 blade  Martec  but it backs down almost dead straight.  The
bonus is that the Yanmar weighs almost 100lbs less than the Volvo did. 

 

My installation was just short of 10K, and there's no more shaft, shaft
seal, etc.   

Just a thought before you commit to either one.

 

Best,

 

Ron C.

Impromptu C 38MKIIC

Mass.

 

 

From: Joe Della Barba via CnC-List  
Sent: Thursday, March 18, 2021 10:59 AM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: j...@dellabarba.com
Subject: Stus-List C 40

 

Would buying a C 40 with an original engine be a good idea in 2021? 

We are running some numbers here and it is basically a choice between
upgrading and replacing. Coquina is 48 years old now and it is time to do
some $$$ upgrades or buy another boat with much of the work done. We found a
used C 40 that looks gorgeous below, the interior beats most used boats of
that era. She seems in good shape, but the engine is original with 3,000+
hours. An Atomic 4 per the manual should be rebuilt at 3,000 hours if FWC, a
raw water cooled version would be very lucky to get that far in salt water.
The Yanmar is FWC. I frequently hear that diesels can last 10,000 hours, but
then again a significant number of boats from that era are for sale with new
engines.

Also re the rod rigging - the mast is out for the winter. With the rigging
easily accessed, what would the cost be of a rigging inspection to assure
that the rod is still good.

Thanks!

 

 

 

Joe Della Barba

Coquina C 35 MK I

Kent Island MD USA

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Recommended Masthead/Deck Light combo replacement [now mast rebuild]

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

Josh, Great Jobmy next question is what was the process for measuring and 
procuring the replacement rod materials?  Did the Yard do it, or a rigger in 
teharea, or other?  

 

Thanks,

 

Ron C.

Impromptu

38MKIIC  ‘77

 

From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
Sent: Thursday, March 18, 2021 10:46 AM
Cc: Stus-List ; Josh Muckley 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Recommended Masthead/Deck Light combo replacement [now 
mast rebuild]

 

The yard used awlgrip 2000, pearl gray if I recall correctly.  Stripped all 
hardware and wiring, welded shut vestigial holes, ground them flat and then 
primed and painted.  Re-wired, refitted, replaced all rod rigging.

 

Here is the link to the whole project.

  
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1eSqX7wZP1r77hD84wDmGAQSI0Tqbn9xm

 

I pretty sure the next question is going to be "how much?"

 

~1k for each rod and hardware.  I have 4 shrouds on each side plus head and 
back.  10 total 

 

~3k for the paint job alone

 

All said and done it came to roughly 20k

 

Josh Muckley 

S/V Sea Hawk 

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD

 

On Thu, Mar 18, 2021, 10:19 David Swensen mailto:ka123dswense...@gmail.com> > wrote:

Josh, Lets talk about your mast and spreaders. What did you use to paint them? 
They look great.

 

On Thu, Mar 18, 2021 at 9:54 AM Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I replaced my Aqua Signal with the marine beam.  Perfect replacement fit.  No 
problem.  Highly recommend.  I also did Aqua Signal LEDs on the spreaders.  
Very low profile and they work phenomenally - almost too bright!

 

https://store.marinebeam.com/led-masthead-foredeck-combination-light/

 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1CdFzOH89I3fwlZeumTcWlLxQGST9Mn_S/view?usp=drivesdk

 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gIzwa9aDe-08QwoXbRkiSKvJpeaHpOkU/view?usp=drivesdk

 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ZQiyoFpaXQ5qMJ82CfCZY1GUoUKmx-MM/view?usp=drivesdk

 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1C9XMVAymHLr3240v5wFePlXiVGKJG6VS/view?usp=drivesdk

 

 

All the best, 

 

Josh Muckley 

S/V Sea Hawk 

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD 

 

 

On Thu, Mar 18, 2021, 08:55 Danny Haughey via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Hello all,

 

I need to replace my masthead (steaming)/Deck Light.  The existing Aqua Signal 
light doesn't impress me as the deck light lens fell off at some point and the 
deck light didn't work.  So, Staying away from Aqua Signal.

 

I've been looking and these light range in price from around $100 all the way 
up to well over $500.  I've seem Marine Beam, with good reviews, at about $125 
and the Signal Mate, with good reviews at about $450.

 

I don't want to spend unnecessarily but, I'm leaning toward the Signal Mate.   
It was good reputation, been around a while and is supposed to be well made.  
Of course the reviews on the Marine beam say they are well made.  There are 
plenty of bad reviews about the aqua signal.  

 

I was hoping some of you could offer some experiences and advise.

 

Thanks,

Danny

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: midship cleats on aluminum rail?

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

I have two of these on my 38MKII for over 12 years.  I use them for spring 
lines and a central docking line……….never an issue with the toe rail on a 38.  
Since the toe rail does have a rolled top, I simply made a couple of aluminum 
spacers from bar stock and slipped them below the rolled top and drilled for 
the bolt.  

 

They work great.

 

Ron C

Impromptu

C 38MKIIC ‘77

 

From: Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List  
Sent: Wednesday, March 10, 2021 3:32 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Tom Buscaglia 
Subject: Stus-List Re: midship cleats on aluminum rail?

 

This maybe?

 

https://www.internationalmarineservice.com/C-Sherman-Johnson-Toe-Rail-Folding-Cleat-p/cs-48-510.htm

 

They used to make bales that bolted to the rail too. But I can’t seem to find 
then anywhere anymore.   I have 3 on each side.  2 for fenders and 1 between 
the rigging and the head stay that I use for my preventer.

Tom Buscaglia

S/V Alera 

1990 C 37+/40

Vashon WA

P 206.463.9200

C 305.409.3660

 





On Mar 9, 2021, at 11:28 PM, Peter McMinn via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:



A question for those of us with aluminum toe rails. I’d like to find a solution 
for midship cleating for docking/departing and springline placement. I’m 
currently securing a line around a stanchion mount, which seems strong, but I’d 
like to find a cleat that mounts to the toe rail. Haven’t seen anything in the 
catalogs. I’m thinking a carabiner or even a soft shackle through a rail hole 
might be a good fix. Given the general opinion that midship cleating is handy, 
I’m curious what you use.

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: History help.....

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

Ted, when did you acquire the boat?  In the old days…….15 years ago, you could 
have found the complete build file at South Shore Yachts in Toronto, many of us 
did that just to keep the history of our boats intact.  After around that date, 
the remaining files were transferred to a Nautical archive museum also sign 
Canada  (someone on this list knows the exact name) and subsequent efforts to 
obtain the files has met with varied success.  Still worth a try.  

 

On the documentation topic, my boat (a1977 C 38MKII) was left unrenewed for 
almost 15 years prior to my purchase.  The build file did have good 
documentation, but the mortgage still left uncleared, was for a Bank in Boston 
that had since gone out of business or probably merged with someone else.  
There is a Documentation service in Winchester MA , Marie is well known for her 
skill at documentation and after about 4 months, she was able to find where the 
bank went, get the mortgage cleared and then get the Coast Guard to reinstate 
my documentation……….

 

If you’re in that need, I wouldn’t hesitate to use them again.  

 

Best,

 

Ron C.

 

From: Ted_Relinda--- via CnC-List  
Sent: Friday, December 25, 2020 3:06 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: ted_reli...@yahoo.com
Subject: Stus-List History help.

 

Does anyone have knowledge of the 1981 40-2 named Magic Dragon. She was ported 
in Ocean City N.J.   When we aquired her, she had been striped of all paperwork 
and loose equipment. Name had been rrmoved. What little we found out was had 
through USCG  Doc search. Number inactive.   

 

Thanks for any help History is interesting to know. 

 

Ted 

S/V Ten- Ten

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Sails

[Ron Casciato]

All great questionssomeone in NE PHRF once calculated that for every 100 
lbs  you have on the foredeck, you lose 3 seconds per mile.  And he was the C 
29 winner of all time for years…….now long gone, but I never forgot the 
calculation.  

 

Ron

 

From: nausetbe...@optonline.net  
Sent: Friday, November 20, 2020 3:15 PM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Sails

 

Blast from the past…  When did that start – early / mid 2000’s?  

 

Anybody have an update on Wally?  Is Stella Blue still in Mexico?  Last I 
recall was a “soap box derby” type of race somewhere in Baja on whatever people 
could create out of locally sourced flotsam…   

 

His website was a fabulous source of how to write ups / photos of various boat 
projects.  

 

Brian

 

From: Dennis C. mailto:capt...@gmail.com> > 
Sent: Friday, November 20, 2020 10:35 AM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Subject: Stus-List Re: Sails

 

He was looking for the "foredeck cow".  (Long time C email listers will 
understand.)

 

  -- 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

On Fri, Nov 20, 2020 at 9:24 AM Don Kern mailto:don-k...@cox.net> > wrote:

 Have received photos of the boat racing with suggestions on what I was doing 
wrong (worded as how to improve).  The most notable was a photo with the 
caption: "what is this guy doing standing on the bow?"!

Don Kern
Fireball, C Mk2

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Stus-List Re: Window Replacement on 1985 C

[Ron Casciato]

Ray,  I replaced the ports on my 77 38MKII about 15 years ago.  I used the 
Lewmar opening ports that come with sturdy frames and an inside cover that 
blends well with the interior.  You also get a set of screens that fit, 
although we’ve never used them.  On the 38, I was surprised at how close the 
Lewmar ports were to the original openings in the cabin. I think we only 
removed less than a ¼” all around.  If you do it this way, remember to fill the 
gap between the outer and inner fiberglass with an epoxy paste and smooth it 
off .  I don’t remember what the original install cost for parts, but this past 
year, I replaced them again since the windows do get glazed over time and while 
you can replace the plexiglass alone, I decided to remove the frames and redo 
the whole project again.  Today’s cost for 5 Lewmar opening windows is in the 
$1400 range.  

 

The decision to replace the frames and all was also due to the fact that 
sealant ages and while I didn’t have any leaks, removing the Plexiglas was 
going to deform the frames so I decided on the full replacement.

 

You’ll never be sorry after doing this project………having fresh air ventilating 
the interior whenever you want it is just great.  

 

I am never successful in uploading pictures to this list, but if you want to 
see how it looks finished, let me know and I’ll send a couple by email.

 

Best,

Ron C.

Impromptu38

C MKIIC #125….1977

 

 

 

From: Matthew  
Sent: Monday, November 9, 2020 8:33 AM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Window Replacement on 1985 C

 

A friend of mine purchased replacement custom windows and frames for his C 36 
from Bomar.  On my 1978 C 34 (which had the older style oval frames), I 
replaced the four cabin windows with Lewmar opening ports.  The most difficult 
aspect of the installation was sufficiently “flattening” the curved deck 
surface.  Non-opening ports are more forgiving on slightly curved surfaces.

 

From: Raymond Macklin mailto:ray.mack...@gmail.com> > 
Sent: Sunday, November 08, 2020 11:36 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Subject: Stus-List Window Replacement on 1985 C

 

Hello:

 

Instead of replacing the Plexi Glass tradition windows, I am looking to replace 
my windows aluminum frames.   Has anyone do this and if so what windows were 
they and if you could provide details on how you did it.

 

Thanks,

Ray

LakeHouse, Milwaukee WI

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Re: Stus-List Thin plastic sheet for headliner access and other uses

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

Rick:  We're both doping the same project this year.I'm in Florida for
the next couple of months and in Sarasota there is a place called Marine
Surplus.  They have rolls and rolls of fabric and coverings in clued inner
hull fabrics.they have a very good choice for our replacement
panelsand our Home Depot carries a "Door skin or 1/8"
plywood",

 

I'll check the price in the next week and let you know how much this choice
is. Of course you could try to use your own panels, but mine are ratty and I
plan on redoing the whole thing

 

More info to followremind me if you haven't' heard from me in a week or
two.

 

Best,

 

Ron

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Brass via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, February 19, 2016 9:55 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rick Brass
Subject: Re: Stus-List Thin plastic sheet for headliner access and other
uses

 

Dennis;

 

Have you only used it for flat panels like those under your winch mounts?
You mention "stiff" in your description. 

 

I'm looking for a somewhat flexible material that can be used to replace the
original Naugahyde covered luan panels in the headliner of my 38. These
panels all seem to have a slight curvature to them. So I'm wondering if this
might be a suitable material for the replacement panels?

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C.
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, February 19, 2016 4:05 PM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Stus-List Thin plastic sheet for headliner access and other uses

 

Following up on a recent thread about plastic sheet for headliner accesses
and other uses on our boats.

I used a material from mcmaster.com to replace the removable overhead panels
which access the winch bolts on Touche'.  The material is strong, stiff,
easy to work, looks nice and closely matches the original panels.  I've used
it in several other applications as well.  It is smooth on one side and has
a light texture, like Naugahyde, on the other.  Very nice material.

Anyway, having failed to find the invoice for the stuff in Touche's file and
being completely uncertain which of mcmaster's many choices it was, I sent a
small sample to mcmaster for identification.  They quickly responded with
this: 


Formable Chemical-Resistant Kydex Acrylic/PVC


http://www.mcmaster.com/#8650K113

Good customer service, in my opinion.  They said they were returning my
sample.  Sheesh!  It was less than 2x2 inches.  They could have tossed it.

 

I intend to order some more as I'm nearly out.

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

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Re: Stus-List Soft shackle

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

I agree with Joelthey are easy to make using the L-36 website.just
Google soft shackle and you'll see lots of pictures and ideas.

 

We use them on Impromptu, a C 38MKIIC for all genoa sizesI'd never go
back to knots.  I think I just saw an article on Soft Shackles on the
Sailing World web site this week?? I'll see if I can find it again.

 

Ron Casciato

Impromptu C 38MKIIC...'77

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel
Aronson via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, February 17, 2016 2:17 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson
Subject: Re: Stus-List Soft shackle

 

I followed the directions on L-36.com for a better soft shackle.  have not
used them with sheets, but there is very little of it to catch on anything.

 

Joel

 

On Wed, Feb 17, 2016 at 2:14 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

I don't know how they work in action on a boat. However, they can be made
relatively easily from single braid line (IIRC) using videos and
instructions from the web.

 

I came across several of the above as I searched the web for splicing an eye
loop in double braid line. Of course you may not 'get it' on the first or
second attempt but all you have lost is a bit of line and some time. It took
me 2 total failures before I 'got it', trying to splice and eye in a double
braid where the inner core provided all the strength (Class II splice).
Right now I am 3 for 5.

You might need a set of fids and a serious knife/scissors, etc., but if you
can't get out and sail anyway because of the weather, doing a little
'nautical weaving' indoors can be a nice diversion!

 

Charlie Nelson

Water Phantom

1995 C 36 XL/kcb

Greenville, NC

cenel...@aol.com

 

-Original Message-
From: John Russo via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
To: CnC-List <CnC-List@cnc-list.com>
Cc: John Russo <johnrussob...@optonline.net>
Sent: Wed, Feb 17, 2016 11:04 am
Subject: Stus-List Soft shackle

Is anyone using a soft shackle to attach the Jib clew to the sheet?  If so
what brand and any problems in operation like catching on shrouds.

 

John

Arpeggio

1984 C 32

NorwalkCT

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-- 

Joel 
301 541 8551

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Re: Stus-List NAVPOD

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

Look for the largest "o" ring you can find and stretch it around?

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Peter
Fell via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, February 10, 2016 2:39 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Peter Fell
Subject: Stus-List NAVPOD

 

Here's a bit of a long shot:

 

I have an unused Navpod GP131 3-instrument (Raymarine ST60) pedestal guard
enclosure. However, I'm missing the gaskets that fit between the pod and the
pedestal guard, that incorporate the seal for the cable exit (hope that
makes sense). The Navpod guys, Ocean Equipment, aren't much help - they
don't stock gaskets for this discontinued product and they didn't respond to
the question as to whether or not another model has a compatible gasket (so
I'm thinking the answer is no). 

 

Does anyone out there have a set of gaskets sitting in their parts bin? Or
should I just make some up out of neoprene?

 

Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
Cygnet
C 27 MkIII

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Re: Stus-List C 44 Custon

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

However, if “flipping” a boat was in fashion..compared to the one for sale 
in MA……….same vintage for $119K……….might be worth a project , maybe even a 
reality TV show………..

 

Ron C.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt, Mike 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 12, 2016 8:14 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Hoyt, Mike 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 44 Custon

 

This is a horrible ad.  No information and not one decent picture of the boat.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of ed 
vanderkruk via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, January 11, 2016 4:15 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: ed vanderkruk
Subject: Stus-List C 44 Custon

 

http://www.kijiji.ca/v-buy-sell-other/cambridge/44-c-c-custom/1103688809

Not sure if this has been posted here already. Seems to be in Toronto but I 
don't know this boat.

45k Canadian $ ... 32k US?

Ed

Prime Interest
Toronto

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Re: Stus-List Autohelm hand bearing compass

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

HI Ted:  I’ll take it……….I’ll send my info to you offline.  Thanks,  Ron

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ted Drossos 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 12, 2016 1:23 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ted Drossos 
Subject: Stus-List Autohelm hand bearing compass

 

I think that Ron C. was looking to replace his Autohelm hand bearing compass. 
They are great units. I have an extra one available for $75 USD if you're 
interested. Kept it as a spare on my other boat but that's for sale now so it 
won't be sold with the boat.   

 

Ted Drossos

C 29-2 H2OT (for sale)

C 110 Lady in Red

Long Island, NY  

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Re: Stus-List Refinish/repaint breaker panels?

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

Joel:

To get that panel looking new………will take some careful prep and then some art 
work for the labels……….you might check out Marine Surplus 
http://www.marinesurplusinc.comWe have one of their stores in Sarasota and 
they have all sorts of panels, etc.  you might get lucky and find one that 
would work for you………..new……….

 

Ron C.

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 12, 2016 9:06 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Subject: Stus-List Refinish/repaint breaker panels?

 

The black paint on the aluminum breaker panels looks its age.  has anyone 
either stripped to repainted theirs?  I need to redo the labels anyhow.


 

-- 

Joel 

35/3

The Office

Annapolis
301 541 8551

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Re: Stus-List C 44 Custon

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

Mike, you’re right.the one in MA has been on the market for years………now 
priced at $97K while most others of that era are in the mid 60-75 range………

http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1988/C%26C-44-Wing-Keel-8280/Braintree/MA/United-States#.VpUfTPkrLrc
  

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt, Mike 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 12, 2016 10:13 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Hoyt, Mike <mike.h...@impgroup.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 44 Custon

 

Zero is a relative number.

 

Making a profit of $4 on a flip is nice but -$4 is also a profit… just 
with negative numbers.  Kind of like the negative interest thing starting to go 
on…..

 

The one on YW is a beauty.  The one on kijiji is not even the same boat.  OK – 
maybe it could be the same model and year but one is a nivce boat and the other 
is a tired old scrap yard

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ron Casciato 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 12, 2016 11:04 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Cc: Ron Casciato
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 44 Custon

 

However, if “flipping” a boat was in fashion..compared to the one for sale 
in MA……….same vintage for $119K……….might be worth a project , maybe even a 
reality TV show………..

 

Ron C.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt, Mike 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 12, 2016 8:14 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Cc: Hoyt, Mike <mike.h...@impgroup.com <mailto:mike.h...@impgroup.com> >
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 44 Custon

 

This is a horrible ad.  No information and not one decent picture of the boat.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of ed 
vanderkruk via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, January 11, 2016 4:15 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Cc: ed vanderkruk
Subject: Stus-List C 44 Custon

 

http://www.kijiji.ca/v-buy-sell-other/cambridge/44-c-c-custom/1103688809

Not sure if this has been posted here already. Seems to be in Toronto but I 
don't know this boat.

45k Canadian $ ... 32k US?

Ed

Prime Interest
Toronto

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Stus-List New Topic: Autohelm hand held compass

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

Happy New Year to the group:

 

Do any of you have one of the old Autohelm Personal Compasses that you'd
like to get rid of I'd like to replace the one I had that died last
season.

 

Thanks,

 

Ron C.

Impromptu

C 38MKIIC..'77

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh
Muckley via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, January 08, 2016 3:12 PM
To: C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List VHF / AIS

 

"I bet 80% of boats have at least some 0183 gear still." 

I sure do, and I'm resistant to change to 2000.  I like the MFDs that
incorporate 0183 and 2000 and I think even bridge between the two.  0183
works, is open, and is more or less readable with a standard serial port.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

>
> On Fri, Jan 8, 2016 at 2:54 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List
 wrote:
>>
>> It might be longer than you think, as NMEA2k certification is a long and
expensive process for the manufacturers. S-H may not want to mess with it.
>>
>> - Fred
>>
>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>>
>>> On Jan 8, 2016, at 1:49 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List
 wrote:
>>>
>>> I'm guessing SH won't be long offering NMEA 2000 units.
>>>
>>> Dennis C.
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
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bottom of page at:
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>>
>>
>
>
>
> -- 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
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bottom of page at:
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>
>

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Re: Stus-List New beer can Genoa

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

Jon:  How competitive do you want to be on Wednesday night?  Our B fleet is
very tough on Wednesdays ...they separate quickly in to those that
mainly cruise and sail for the fun of it during the week and those of us who
are much more serious..it dictates the type and fabric of the sail
you end up with.

Here in New England, I'm using a light #1 at 153% made of a
"composite/Mylar" laminate material.  It's a Bainbridge
material..made by a local sailmaker that also sails with me on
Wednesday.the cost 2 years ago was in the $3400 range discounted for
the fall boat show sale..

I'd be glad to refer you to him if you're interested he does ship all
over.we've been the #1 boat  in the fleet for 2 years...the sails do
a lot of the work.not an excuse, however, for a good helmsman. Which
he is. 

I'm the same age as well. Don't let our wife "pack you in" yet.. lots of
time left for  that 

Best,

Ron C.
C 38MKIIC '77

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jon
Tasker via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, December 25, 2015 1:32 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jon Tasker 
Subject: Stus-List New beer can Genoa

I need an affordable 155% Genoa for my 37 for Wednesday nights. North wants
$5000, Ullman wants $3140. At age 75, my wife the questions the necessity.
Anyone got any suggestions.
Jon Tasker 
C 37
Muskegon MI

Sent from my iPad
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Re: Stus-List Spinnaker pole

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

Why not simply cut the tracer string in place and tie another string to it and 
pull the original one out and measure it……?  That leaves you with a 
messenger string still in place and  the correct measurement

 

Ron C.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck S via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, December 10, 2015 5:25 PM
To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list 
Cc: Chuck S 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Spinnaker pole

 

Do you mean the spinnaker pole lift?

 

  _  

From: "Pamela & David via CnC-List"  >
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: "Pamela & David"  >
Sent: Thursday, December 10, 2015 5:07:55 PM
Subject: Stus-List Spinnaker pole

 

Hello

 

Does anyone know the length of rope for the UPHAUL on a C?

 

I have a tracer string inplace on a recent purchase boat and are looking for a 
quick job to replace 


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Re: Stus-List Video of C 30 racing in Annapolis

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

Ronthink of it as a way to get a good used one if they have a lot of
them out there.I think I'm generationally challenged to be able to sail
one...

 

Ron C.

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ronald B.
Frerker via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, November 19, 2015 4:07 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ronald B. Frerker
Subject: Re: Stus-List Video of C 30 racing in Annapolis

 

Imagine my disappointment, I was thinking of original C 30s.

Great video though and I hope they sell the hell out of them.  Can only help
get the name out there.

Ron

C 30-1

Wild Cheri

STL

 

 

  _  

From: Rick Brass via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Rick Brass 
Sent: Thursday, November 19, 2015 9:48 AM
Subject: Stus-List Video of C 30 racing in Annapolis

 

The attached video was included in a post from a sailing TV website this
morning. I have to say I'm impressed to see so many C 30s on the line, and
the performance of the boats is impressive. Certainly not "us father's" C
And pretty athletic for this fat old man. But impressive none the less.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5FxUDhhQQVo

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  C 38 mk 2

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Removing and applying vinyl lettering

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

That article is in the latest issue of Sail Magazinenicely
done...Ron C.

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew
Burton via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, November 17, 2015 8:12 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Andrew Burton
Subject: Re: Stus-List Removing and applying vinyl lettering

40
Way gorgeouser than the 41.
Thanks, Joel.

Andy
C 40
Peregrine

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

> On Nov 17, 2015, at 19:21, Joel Aronson via CnC-List
 wrote:
> 
> Our own Andrew Burton has a  an article on how to do this, complete with
photos of his gorgeous C 41.
> 
> Joel
> 
> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
> ___
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Re: Stus-List Headliner

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

Doug:

 

I guess no-one knows where to get the original materialand I have seen
"hull liner" material on the web somewhere. I'll start lookingnone of he
other options work for methere's enough wood on the inside, I don't want
to add more...

 

I would check  a company in Sarasota called Marine Surplusthey have a
web site, and have lots of new stuff that didn't get used up by the boat
builders or companies...I'll go over there tomorrow and check them out.

 

Good luck.

 

Ron C.

C 38MKII..'77

Impromptu

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Douglas
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, November 11, 2015 8:42 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Douglas
Subject: Stus-List Headliner

 

Hello: I have a 1986 MKIII 38-ft. One of the removable panels over the
galley (four or five screws) material needs replacing. I have pulled the
panel and removed the material. It cannot be save, it was ruined by the
previous owner trying to glue the edges back up as a quick fix. All the
others in the cabin are in great shape. Does anyone know where I can find a
match. It is cream to beige in color, as I am certain all of them are. I was
told it was a vinyl wall covering by a boat upholstering shop. I live on an
island in Washington state. I can take a ferry or bridge to the main land,
but it is normally an 3.5 round trip just over and back, without leaving the
ferry dock area. So I do most things via the internet.

Thanks for any help you may have.

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Re: Stus-List C Interior Wood Veneer - mid 80's

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

HI Mike:

 

I agree with your general impressioncruisers vs racers………..however, when my 
boat was listed in Marblehead in 97, it stated that the cosmetics were less 
than average………but I knew the 38 MKII as a good boat and good for  racing……..we 
had another successful season this year……..

 

But I’m very fussy about looks and function.lots of improvements over the 
last 10 or so years and it does look brand new today….. I’m also in a slip on a 
dock with only big cruisers (power boats)………I’m the “token sailboat” so I have 
to keep the image up.  

 

The boat next to me is a Hatteras 40……..completely redone inside with granite 
countertops, 2 built-in blenders, and an ice machine……….it’s a great dock!!! 
Never a dry glass.

 

Cheers,

 

Ron C.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt, Mike 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, September 11, 2015 8:19 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Hoyt, Mike <mike.h...@impgroup.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List C Interior Wood Veneer - mid 80's

 

Two Points from Ron’s post

 

1.  +100 to the varnished wood for interior.  Previous three boats were not 
varnished and required oil.  Current 1987 boat came from factory with varnished 
interior and has a LOT of wood.  Never required any touchups in all the time 
since.

 

2.  I found it ironic that Ron blamed cruisers for a lack of interior 
maintenance.  That is usually blamed on people using a boat for racing.

 

We are loving our Winnebago.  Having an interior is really nice. 1987 Frers 33

 

Mike

Persistence

1987 Frers 33 #16

Halifax, NS

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ron Casciato 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, September 10, 2015 7:30 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Cc: Ron Casciato
Subject: Re: Stus-List C Interior Wood Veneer - mid 80's

 

Jon:  I’m in the camp that hates to use oil on wood since you will have to do 
it again sometimeI hate maintenance.

 

My 1977 38MKII was 20 years old when I got her in 1997, the previous owner used 
her for cruising and did absolutely no maintenance or care so the interior was 
very tired and in some cases sun bleached in the forepeak.

 

I sanded the entire interior and coated it with MInwax Helmsman Satin 
Urethane….I used their gloss version on the trim edges of the bulkheads, etc.

 

It’s been almost 20 years under my ownership ……I wipe it down with pledge 
once a year and I do not plan on ever redoing it again…it looks better than 
it did coming out of the factory.

 

Just my 2 cents worth,

 

Ron C.

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jonathan 
Boocock via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, September 09, 2015 5:31 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Cc: Jonathan Boocock <jonbooc...@gmail.com <mailto:jonbooc...@gmail.com> >
Subject: Stus-List C Interior Wood Veneer - mid 80's

 

It is time to refresh the interior of my 1986 44 and I have a section that I 
would like to re-veneer. Does anyone know what the wood veneer is on the mid 
80's C's?

Is it teak or some kind of mahogany?

The best match I have found is the Teak Veneer Quartered from Oakwood Veneers.

http://www.oakwoodveneer.com/veneers/teak-veneer.html

I have tried the Watco Danish Oil Cherry as a color match as a lister 
recommended some time ago and it seems to be a pretty good match for my boat.

Any help from someone who has worked on their wood interior would be 
appreciated.

 

Jon

C 44

Mor' Childs Play

Kingston, ON

 

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Re: Stus-List C 37 question

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

Also interesting.we have one of each in our Wednesday night fleet……..my 
38-2 and a 37………..both hulls look identical, however, the  37’s PHRF rating is 
almost 10 seconds lower than minehe rates 111 and I rate 120 (racing 
rating)……”cruising rating” comparisons get confused with handicap credits for 
furlers, limited sail inventories, etc.  the 37 cruising rating is 123 and mine 
is 132.  We are very close on the race course.We did better last season and 
it looks like this season will repeat.but only by a few places in a few 
races………

 

Interesting

Ron C.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick Brass 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, September 02, 2015 9:32 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rick Brass 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 37 question

 

Interesting question.

 

I took a cursory look at the data on Sailboatdata.com and only see one model 
37, available as std, CB, and SD models. Then there is a listing for a 37-2 and 
the 37/40, but both of these are 39.5 feet long.

 

But I got curious when I looked at the rig and interior layout drawings for the 
37. The interior layout appears to be the same as my 38-2, and the only 
difference in appearance is the front of the coach house on the 37 has a flat 
face (like a LF38, which went into production at the same time as the 37), 
where the coach house on the 38-2 tapers into the foredeck. And the production 
on the 37 started just when the 38-2 stopped. 

 

So here is a bit of data:

 

Model LOA   Production

38-1 37.5873-75

38-2 37.5875-80?

37 S/CB/SD37.5881-86

38-3 S/CB/SD/WK 37.5585-?

37-2 S/CB/SD/WK 39.5088

37/40 +/R/XL 39.5088/89

 

Looking at brochures on the Photo Album, the 37 has some amenities the 38 
doesn’t like an anchor locker. And the deck has styling similar to the 35-3, 
38-3, and the 37/40 series with the glued in portlights and recesses in the 
cabin sides aft of the portlights. The interior, however is virtually identical 
to the 38-2.

 

I’m wondering if the 37 was a transitional model – sort of a 38 mk2.5 – that 
bridged the transition to the hull shapes and interior layouts you find in the 
later boats like the 38-3 and the 37/40+/R/XL. Can anyone confirm my hypothesis?

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  C 38 mk 2

la Belle Aurore C 25 mk1

Washington, NC

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, 
Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, September 02, 2015 3:40 PM
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com'  >
Cc: Della Barba, Joe  >
Subject: Stus-List C 37 question

 

Curious:

How many types of C 37s are there?

Joe

Coquina

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Re: Stus-List CC 37+ Repower -- Ugh

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

EDD:

 

Lots of great advice in this thread…..BUT; a few years ago, I met with Rob 
Ball at the Newport Boat show…

 

We were going over a couple  of  thing an I asked him (I own a CC 38MKII…1977) 
if he  had it to do over again……….what would be different.  Without even 
hesitating, he took me over  to the Yanmar booth right next to Edson’s where  
he works now, and pointed to  the Yanmar YM30 with the SD20 saildrive.

 

So a year later, I had the opportunity to do just that.  7 years later……….that  
engine is quiet, doesn’t need  the maintenance a transmission does, drives the  
boat  to  over 7kt, an backs up dead straight……..

 

It’s the  quietest engine I have ever heard.  The old Volvo Penta was  removed 
in one piece through the companionway………

 

The Yanmar 3YM30 and SD20 Saildrive comes in a crate mounted to a new bed that 
only has to be scribed and glassed in.  the scary part is that you have to cut 
a hole I the bottom for the drive to go through but the seal system is 
absolutely great………..

 

The total  cost of  the engine and the installation ended up around $9K.  I’ve 
never looked back.

 

If you look around  at new  performance boats and such they all  have  
Saildrives, most of the  J boats e.g.  

 

YOU should at least give  that  option  a glance………..you treat the SailDrive 
like an outboard motor which is  what it  really is.  For  the CC, I’d 
recommend  the long shaft version…..no up charge then.  I also  ended up with a 
Flex-O-Fold 2 bladed folding prop recommended by Yanmar and that, too has  been 
great.

 

So consider moving up to the new propulsion system for the Starshipyou’ll  
love it.

 

Best

 

Ron C.

Impromptu

CC 38MKIIC

1977

 

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Russ  
Melody via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, June 25, 2015 12:09 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Russ  Melody
Subject: Re: Stus-List CC 37+ Repower -- Ugh

 


Hi Edd,

Wasn't this a suspected head gasket leak a while ago? Then confirmed suspicion 
finding discoloured oil (grey) and cranking with no firing?  So now it's 
probably just hydraulic'ed and they want to remove the whole puppy!

Did anyone try barring it over with the injectors removed? 

Don't you have a competent mechanic nearby who can pop the head off in less 
than a couple of hours and give you a good opinion?

Might save the season and a few grand to boot, Russ


At 12:41 PM 24/06/2015, you wrote:



Listers,

The yard is pulling out the Enterprise’s engine tomorrow. They can’t get it 
to turn more than 3/4 of the way and they think it’s a bent rod or something. 

So, as far as I can see, the options are:

1. They ship this engine to a place that can fix/rebuild. I know this is the 
lowest-priced option, but also am aware that there’s a possibility it can’t 
be fixed or rebuilt. So, in essence, I’m gambling with all that time and 
labor.
2. Obtain a remanufactured Universal M-35 or a similar engine from Westerbeke 
and get that put in — anyone have any clue as to those costs?
3. Obtain a Beta-30 from Beta Marine for $11,000 including shipping and put 
that in. The Beta guy (who has been enormously helpful) says it should be a 
perfect match (same mounts, same power, lighter engine)

Anyone have any advice, experience or comments with any of these options. If it 
were you, what would you do? 

Wanted to get this email out before I threw up. 


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/ 














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Re: Stus-List 38 Salon Table

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

So let me help out hereJoe, where are you located.

I have a CC 38MKII Hull # 125 that came with a custom two drop leaf teak
table with a center chamber to house several liquor bottles, etc. Since we
normally race this boatthe table was too heavy for our use, so I
took it out and have stored it in the attic of my garage for over 12 years. 

It was originally mounted on a box structure over the bilge sump that
covered the Hydraulic drive turbine that drove the prop. (Long story).. 
That system got replaced in 2005 for a new Yanmar 3YM30 with SD20 Saildrive
and we've never looked back.

Depending on how you wanted to set it up, you'd need a pedestal mounted to
your floor, or you could fashion 4 legs to make up the 12 or so in height
to bring up the table to normal. That would allow you to move it if you
wanted.

So here's the deal.  If you are near (within  miles) of the Boston area,
it's yours, just come and pick it up.  If you're farther away, you need to
think about how to get it to you.either case, it's yours. 

Let me know if you're interested.

Ron C.
Impromptu
CC 38MKIIC'77

P.S. for you or anyone else..I also have new (never installed) inner
forestay that I was going to add to use for the smaller jibs or as a cutter
rig.Foolish thinking on my part.  I also have an original CC 38 rod
forestay that came off a sister boat and didn't get used when I went to the
Selden Furler...anyone interested..just let me know.  Equally
reasonably priced.



  

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joseph
Scott via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, April 19, 2015 9:09 AM
To: Rick Brass
Cc: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 38 Salon Table

Thanks Rick. That would be wonderful. Yes I have a 38 mk2 hull #34 so I
would think it would be the same as yours. The mods you did also sound
great. 
I like what you use the lockers for too:)

Thanks,

Joe

Sent from my iPad

 On Apr 19, 2015, at 8:56 AM, Rick Brass rickbr...@earthlink.net wrote:
 
 You didn't indicate what model of 38 you have, but if it is a 38 mk2 I
would
 be glad to take photos and make a dimensioned sketch for you.
 
 I've made a couple of modifications from the original arrangement. I found
 the height of the table to be a bit lower than that of a normal table in
 your home; which made access to the bilge difficult and made the fold down
 leaf on the starboard side a bit of an ankle knocker when going forward.
 So I raised the mounting on the mast a few inches and bought a longer
metal
 leg to support the aft end of the table.
 
 The port side of the table top originally was fixed, which made getting
into
 the port settee difficult. I modified the table top so the port side is
now
 a fold down leaf, similar to the starboard side. Big improvement.
 
 But the key feature of the table is the two storage wells in the middle of
 the table top. That is now my liquor locker.
 
 
 Rick Brass
 Imzadi 
 CC 38 mk2 Hull #047
 Washington, NC
 
 
 
 -Original Message-
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joseph
 Scott via CnC-List
 Sent: Saturday, April 18, 2015 11:17 PM
 To: CnClist
 Subject: Stus-List 38 Salon Table
 
 Hello All
 
 When we bought our 38 it didn't have the salon table. Any ideas where I
 could get a replacement or plans to make one?
 
 Thanks
 
 Joe
 
 Sent from my iPad
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Re: Stus-List Rigging set-up

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

I should know this stuffthe videos are where?

 

Ron C.

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck S
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, March 26, 2015 10:49 PM
To: Aronson, Joel; CNC boat owners, cnc-list
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rigging set-up

 

Like your videos.  Always meant to do that for my boat and crew.   

 

 

Chuck
Resolute
1990 CC 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

 

  _  

From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 25, 2015 1:02:54 PM
Subject: Stus-List Rigging set-up

 

All,

 

In order to help my race crew adjust to my boat, I made 2 short videos
showing the running rigging and electronics that are on YouTube under CC 35
Rigging.  If you are bored, take a look.

 

What I've done may not be right for anyone else, but it might give you ideas
of what to do or not do, and if you have a 35/3, you can see how different
our boats are.  I know some have a different mast, some have hydraulic
vangs, some lack a second jib track and reaching strut, etc.

 

Joel

35/3

Annapolis


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Re: Stus-List PHRF Adjustments for Spin and JAM in a single fleet

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

Hi Rick:

 

I claim advantage since I also have a 38MKII, '77 vintage.

 

You could check the NEPHRF.org website to see if your current handicaps are
close for the boats racing.if you have boats that are not registered,
you could assign a rating comparable with the list found there.  

 

However, there are always discrepancies.the known list portends to be
applicable to a boat that is in racing shape  in our case that means that
the sails and equipment are up to snuff and the bottom is cleanI would
expect that some of your participants won't match those criteria

 

What we do in the Hingham fleet is to establish a racing and a cruising
rating for each boat.  Racing rating considers that the regular symmetrical
spinnaker will be used on a pole.  The cruising rating covers boats using
Jib and main only.  For our regular Wednesday night races, we don't have
enough boats to race separate races in each fleet so if I want to race in
the B fleet (which we won overall last year), and we don't want to use a
spinnaker (which I don't have, only an ASYM) we let cruising boats race
with the spinnaker boats and add 10% to the cruising ratingThat worked
very well for us last year.

 

IN our pursuit races, and we have several with over 100 boats entered, we
also (by necessity) have both types of boats racing in the same raceall
in one fleet.  IN that case, boats that are racing Cruising get 10sec.
added to their cruising rating.  Again worked well for us last year. 

 

In your Pursuit race..simply assign a base handicap to each boat and
then adjust it for spinnaker or not racing.  Since the pursuit race starting
time already takes the handicap into accountthen as usual, the first
boat across the finish line wins

 

You could also check out a web site; www.regattaman.com
http://www.regattaman.com/   these guys do the race management for most of
the events in New Englandfind the calendar page and check out the Great
Chase Raceyou'll find NOR's, Sailing instructions, and ratings for over
100 boats from Rhodes 19's to Swan 42's and beyond...

 

If you need more info, check with me off line and I'll send what I can.

 

Best,

 

Ron Casciato

Impromptu

CC 38MKIIC...'77

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Brass via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, March 20, 2015 9:17 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List PHRF Adjustments for Spin and JAM in a single fleet

 

OK. I know this has been discussed before. But I just spent almost two hours
in the mail archives rereading a whole bunch of previous messages, trying to
come up with a consensus opinion on how to adjust PHRF ratings to allow spin
and JAM boats to compete in a single (small) fleet.

 

What I firmly believe I have discovered is that, sort of like economists and
politicians, if you laid all the opinions end to end they would never reach
a conclusion.

 

I know that a number of PHRF organizations give a boat both a Spin and a
non-spin rating. And I understand that local some local organizations with
small fleets running in a single event will adjust the ratings of boats in
non-spin to promote more even competition. From what I can see, the credit
for running non-spin seems to be in the range of 10-18 seconds, or 10-15% of
the boat's PHRF.

 

What I'm trying to do is plan for a CC Cup to be run as part of a local
charity regatta called Pirates on the Pungo, in Belhaven, NC on the weekend
of May 15-17. More on that later.

 

The race on Saturday is a longish (10-12NM) pursuit race that starts and
finishes in the harbor and has north, south, east, and west legs. I know of
about 15 CCs within a day's travel of Belhaven, so I'm guessing the fleet
would include 8-10 boats, with some cruisers and 1 or 2 real racers. To
promote camaraderie and competition, and also so I don't have to pony up too
much for the prizes (the winner will get a half hull of his own boat made by
Andrew Burton), we would have a single fleet.

 

So help me here:

 

How does your local PHRF or sailing club adjust the ratings between Spin and
JAM to allow both types of boats in a single fleet? And how equitable are
the results based on your experience?

 

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  CC 38 mk 2

la Belle Aurore CC 25 mk1

Washington, NC

 

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Re: Stus-List Racing w whisker poles

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

Chuck et al.

 

According to my reading of the rating adjustments in this link
http://www.phrfne.org/page/handicapping/handicap_adjustments   ; Whisker
pole may only be = to J dimension.  The rest of this tome makes my head hurt
often.

 

However, we have figured out how to get the 38MKII to rate at 145 in a mixed
fleet using only jib and mainin all of the Wednesday series races. In
pursuit races the cruising rating is 142..(Cruising rating of 132 + 10).  

 

The discussion this past year over the ratings of boats with bow sprits and
the oversized ASYMS has been a painful exercise in not satisfying
anybody...so the topic is shelved until sometime in the futurethe rating
adjustments here work for our CC's .  The issue has been for boats like the
older J35 which would have been wacked to match a new J109absurd

 

Ron

Impromptu

CC 38MKIIC..'77

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck S
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, March 21, 2015 11:20 AM
To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list
Subject: Stus-List Racing w whisker poles

 

Ron, Gary, Rick,  

Curious.  Does your RC allow adjustable whisker poles longer than J length
to be used during a race in your areas?


Chuck
Resolute
1990 CC 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

 

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Re: Stus-List Composite project (not CC related directly)

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

Brent:

Check the website for Composite Soplutions, Inc. in Hingham MA.  Jeff Kent
is a composite master and would have lots of ssugestions or even maybe has
a pert that might work.

http://csi-composites.com  

Tell him I sent you.

Ron Casciato
Impromptu
CC 38MKIIC'77

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Brent
Driedger via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, March 11, 2015 12:03 PM
To: CC List Canada
Subject: Stus-List Composite project (not CC related directly)

Good day folks. 
Last year I was gifted a tired Bombardier Invitation 3.8. With a little TLC
I'll get her sailing agains but the boat came without a daggerboard. I'm
going to make a composite one. Two questions. I've scoured the Internet for
a design detail of the board but have come up with nothing. Does anyone have
any links they know of or information that could be helpful?   Second, for
the composite masters, what would be the best core choice and layup for this
project? Will fibreglass be fine or should I go with Kevlar?  
Thanks. 

Brent Driedger
27-5
Lake Winnipeg.  

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List Diagram for deck arrangement on CC 32?

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

Hans:

Lots of great advice here from other listers, but I wonder if it would be
helpful to describe what your sailing style is.  Do you i9ntend to mainly
cruise, where would you sail, what winds are you likely to experience, etc.


If you are a racer, then certain lines are necessary, but if you are mainly
a cruiser and might be shorthanded, then other accommodations are
appropriate.

Will you be out on long?? Off shore cruises?  Will you be mainly in coastal
waters off the coast  What is the wind like in your area,
generally

Your boat will do all of these things, and do it well and reliably, but you
need to decide on your own requirements first.  

Why did you buy the 32?

If you are a novice as you mentioned, it might be better to take off most of
the non essential lines now and you can always add them later.  You won't
need extra spinnaker halyards if you don't have a spinnaker and don't intend
to use it this year. But they will certainly get in the way while you learn
about the boat.

Just my 2 cents worth,

Good luck and welcome to the best discussion group anywhere.

Ron Casciato
Impromptu
CC 38MKIIC'77 

 



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hans-Erik
Andersen via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, March 04, 2015 10:53 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Diagram for deck arrangement on CC 32?

I'm a proud new owner of a CC 32 and a novice sailor. I'm trying to get a
better handle on the fairly complex layout of the deck tackle on this boat.
Is there any resource (i.e. diagram) available that would explain the
arrangement of blocks, winches, etc. for this boat? I would have thought
that this might be included in the owners manual but it's not. Thanks for
the help!

Sent from my iPad
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Stus-List Ron CAsciato with a question re email addressses:

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

HI Stu:

 

Long time no talk, but I read the list every day.

 

I'm in the process of changing some of my email addresses for receiving
email and I would like to keep my CC email constant.  However, I, as usual,
deleted the regular notification of my membership in the list group and I
would like to have the email you have on file as the one you send list
emails out to me.  Is that something you can put you fingers on
conveniently?

 

It's the only one I have that uses the Verizon.net address I think.

 

I appreciate your help as usual.

 

Ron Casciato

Impromptu

CC 38MKIIC...'77

 

Wow, almost 38 years oldstill looks brand new.

 

 

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Re: Stus-List cc 41

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

Danny:  Do you want a project boat or one that's ready to go?

I believe that there's still a 40-41 in Hingham Ma handled by Eastern
Yachts. It's been there for a while, and could use a paint job, but still a
40-41.

Ron C. 

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny
Haughey via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, November 15, 2014 8:19 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List cc 41

hi guys,

does anyone know anything about the 41 for sale in portsmouth ri?  the
boat's name is reverie.

Danny

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Re: Stus-List Running Lights Approved LED bulbs

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

Ed:  What's the link for that headlight??:...very nifty idea.

 

Ron C.

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd
Schillay via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, November 06, 2014 11:50 AM
To: CC List
Subject: Re: Stus-List Running Lights Approved LED bulbs

 

Now this is a headlight -
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15162917/ENTERPRISE/headlight.jpg 

 

LED's - highly recommended for those dark nights driving through a mooring
field. 

 

All the best,

 

Edd

 

 

Edd M. Schillay

Starship Enterprise

CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

City Island, NY 

Starship Enterprise's http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/
Captain's Log

 

On Nov 6, 2014, at 11:35 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 

Sorry, the vernacular is confusing.  Steaming is the headlight placed on
the mast.  Not the light on the masthead.  My OEM CC panel has a switch
labelled Headlight.  I have to remind myself that it is not Head Light.

Josh

 

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Re: Stus-List CC for sale locally

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

 

 

So the write up says the new RED Awlgrip done in 2008...but all of the
pictures are  of  a WHITE boat???// wonder what's up with that???

 

Ron C.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny
Haughey via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, November 03, 2014 7:50 AM
To: russ...@telus.net; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List CC for sale locally

 

 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com Hi Guys,

 

I thought this might be of some interest.  I friend of mine sent it to me
yesterday.

 

I have no affiliation with this boat what-so-ever.

 

79 CC 36 for $20,500

http://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/boa/4705372237.html

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Re: Stus-List oldest sail contest

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

Joe:  I also have a 170 Genoa that came with my boat (1978)...but I've4
never used it.  Where do you lead the sheets for a 170.  My 38MKII uses a
155 regularly and that sheet leads almost back to the winch.  I figured that
the previous owner (or the original owner) used the transom corner fitting
for a turning block location.

 

Incidentally, I have the original IOR rating certificate listing the 170
with a penalty of about 3-4 seconds.to offset that, the owner shortened
the main luff dimension by about 3 feetbalanced out his penalty

 

Always wondered how you would trim that much sail since it comes back to
within a couple of feet of the transom.Sail bag is labeled H1..North
Special 170 Genoa.

 

Someday I'll have to get it out and just set it up to see where it
leads.

 

Best,

 

Ron C.

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della
Barba, Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, October 23, 2014 9:46 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List oldest sail contest

 

 

Working jib= 100% jib.

My jib has not been used since I got the furling gear around 1987 or so. I
have 2 170% genoas that are around 25-28 years old but barely used. Likewise
since the furling gear they hardly ever leave the bags.

 

Joe Della Barba

Coquina

CC 35 MK I

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Burt
Stratton via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, October 23, 2014 9:29 AM
To: 'Gary Nylander'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List oldest sail contest

 

Working jib?

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary
Nylander via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, October 23, 2014 9:16 AM
To: Della Barba, Joe; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List oldest sail contest

 

You win. Mine is a 1980, still feels new, but as you know, we don't use
working jibs much around here.

 

Gary

St. Michaels

- Original Message - 

From: Della Barba, mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com  Joe via CnC-List 

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Sent: Thursday, October 23, 2014 7:35 AM

Subject: Stus-List oldest sail contest

 

 

I am going to take the working jib down to the boat in case we get a honking
25 knot day so I can get a good beat in and it occurred to me that the jib
came from CC when the boat was new in 1973. Does anyone have an older sail
than that?

 

 

Joe Della Barba

Coquina

CC 35 MK I


  _  


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Re: Stus-List thread reply and rod rigging

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

David:  Just my 2 cents worth..

 

Since you're in Newport RI, you have way more rigging expertise at your
fingertips than most of us on this list.Newport is full of competition
boats and riggers and such.  Find someone local and have them look at the
rig.

 

MY 38MKIIC is a 1977 vintage and has the original rod rigging that came with
the boat.  My mast is, however, a Stearns' mast instead of the standard CC
one.  I have had my mast down several times in the past 16 years of
ownership and I've also had the rigging checked each time.  Regardless of
mast manufacturer, rod rigging is still a better option from my
perspective

 

To date (now I've really jinxed it) it is in fine shape and I expect it to
last a long time.

 

We race this boat so it gets more stress than usual cruising does and still
the rod is intact and healthy.

 

Just for thought.

 

Ron C.

Impromptu

CC 38MKIIC..'77

 

Incidentally.they are making new CC's right down the road from Newport
and you might drop in there to get an opinion.Principles there were
related to the CC production effort in RI back in the daythey should be
great resources for you locally..

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C.
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, October 13, 2014 10:57 AM
To: David Dawes; CnClist
Subject: Re: Stus-List thread reply and rod rigging

 

David, 

If you're looking at reheading all the rigging, think about pulling the rig,
removing all the shrouds, coiling them up and taking them to a NavTec shop.
You can coil the rod to no LESS than 200 times diameter and strap it to an
X made of 2 x 4's for transport.  UPS will ship it.  

You didn't say where you were.  There may be a NavTec shop near you. Throw
it in a pickup and drive it there.

 

Before you coil it, make a list of each rod and carefully measure the pin to
pin distance.  That is, between the centers of the hole in each end.  Also
measure the pin diameters.  Now you have a record of the rig.

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

 

On Sun, Oct 12, 2014 at 7:19 AM, David Dawes via CnC-List
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

Hi, can someone tell me how to reply to a thread?  Sorry, I can't figure it
out.  So I started a new one.

 

 

Next I looked at a 1984 CNC 35 M3 yesterday.  Concerned about the rod
rigging.  This boat is run down so I don't expect a record of rigging
inspection or service.

 

A rigger friend recommended full replacement.

 

Is this correct?  And what are alternatives?  What is a rod replacement cost
approx?  And is a wire replacement smart/ advisable/ cost effective or too
heavy?  Technology has moved ahead in 30 years.

 

I love the boat layout etc.  But suspect rigging will kill my offshore
pleasure!

 

Many thanks,

 

David.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

David Dawes

Captain

Newport, RI, USA

+1(401)5854942 tel:%2B1%28401%295854942 

dawes...@hotmail.com

 

 

 


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Re: Stus-List Mast removal for winter?

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

In the boatyards around Boston.almost no masts are removed for
winter storage..most are stored with mast up and seem to do
well

In the past 14 years, I've only taken mine down for revisions or repairs to
wind instruments..probably 3 times in that 14 year interval

It will be staying up again this year.  Yes, relieve the tension on shrouds
and backstay a little not flopping around

Ron C.
Impromptu
CC 38MKIIC.'77

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt,
Mike via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2014 2:03 PM
To: Dr. Mark Bodnar; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast removal for winter?

Mast up with a boat on jack stands is not a good idea.  Many clubs
around here do not permit it

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dr.
Mark Bodnar via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2014 2:47 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Mast removal for winter?


All the discussion about unstepping the mast has me wondering about the
merits of leaving it in or pulling it out for the winter.
In the owners manual for the CS 30 is states
 CS Yachts does not recommend that the yacht be stored with the mast 
 left in place as this places stresses on the hull and rig not 
 encountered during normal operation. Any damage  to  the  yacht,  its

 cradle  or  any  associated  part will not  be  covered  under 
 warranty if the boat has been stored with the rig in place.

I pulled the mast on my Mirage 24 - but we were able to do that by hand.
Our club has a crane and a gin pole(?) that could be used to pull the
mast --- but given all the bigger boats seem to leave the mast in place
I wonder if I'm better leaving it as it is. Loosen up the shrouds a
little and maybe pull our the halyards (leaving messenger lines).
I know when I bought the boat it hadn't been off the jack stands for 3
yrs - and the mast was up the whole time (shrouds not loosened and 3 of
the 4 halyards just pulled up to the mast head --- rescued by the launch
crew for me)

Having just bought this boat I wonder if hauling the mast might be a
good idea so I can get a good look at the mast head, sheaves etc. That
said everything is working well -- is it easier to just go up the mast
in a bosuns chair and do an inspection from there?

Advice appreciated,
Mark


-- 


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Re: Stus-List Mast removal for winter?

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

Mike:

 

I agree that we haven't talked about this one for some time..in my case
(mast up)...the cost to take it down and put it back up is
prohibitivemore than $500 which is not part of the storage
agreementnot doing that every year.

 

Ron C.

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt,
Mike via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2014 3:32 PM
To: Joel Aronson; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast removal for winter?

 

This is a long time debate.  Which damages boat / mast more?  Removal and
reinstall of mast and potential mishaps or leaving it up?  I know that one
season on our J27 we left the mast up.  That Spring while working on the
boat the entire cradle would vibrate every time a gust of wind hit.  I
attribute this to a very slender and bendy spar as much as anything.

 

The big issue these days seems to be leaving a spar up with a boat on jack
stands.  The extra windage of the mast further compromises the integrity of
jack stands.  One local club (Dartmouth Yacht Club) will not permit a mast
to be left up on the hard unless the boat is stored on a cradle.  Another
way to look at it is if you wish to use jack stands the mast must come down.

 

I realize that many boat yards in the Northeast US only allow jackstands.  I
believe this is due to yard space and not due to a jackstand being more
secure than a cradle.  

 

So here we are back to the very old mast up vs mast down question.  At the
very least mast down does give you a good opportunity to inspect the
standing rigging and the mast

 

Mike

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel
Aronson via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2014 4:17 PM
To: Ron Casciato; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast removal for winter?

 

Same in Annapolis. Masts stay in the boat unless they are being worked on.

 

Joel

 

On Mon, Sep 22, 2014 at 3:13 PM, Ron Casciato via CnC-List
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

In the boatyards around Boston.almost no masts are removed for
winter storage..most are stored with mast up and seem to do
well

In the past 14 years, I've only taken mine down for revisions or repairs to
wind instruments..probably 3 times in that 14 year interval

It will be staying up again this year.  Yes, relieve the tension on shrouds
and backstay a little not flopping around

Ron C.
Impromptu
CC 38MKIIC.'77


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt,
Mike via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2014 2:03 PM
To: Dr. Mark Bodnar; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast removal for winter?

Mast up with a boat on jack stands is not a good idea.  Many clubs
around here do not permit it

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dr.
Mark Bodnar via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2014 2:47 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Mast removal for winter?


All the discussion about unstepping the mast has me wondering about the
merits of leaving it in or pulling it out for the winter.
In the owners manual for the CS 30 is states
 CS Yachts does not recommend that the yacht be stored with the mast
 left in place as this places stresses on the hull and rig not
 encountered during normal operation. Any damage  to  the  yacht,  its

 cradle  or  any  associated  part will not  be  covered  under
 warranty if the boat has been stored with the rig in place.

I pulled the mast on my Mirage 24 - but we were able to do that by hand.
Our club has a crane and a gin pole(?) that could be used to pull the
mast --- but given all the bigger boats seem to leave the mast in place
I wonder if I'm better leaving it as it is. Loosen up the shrouds a
little and maybe pull our the halyards (leaving messenger lines).
I know when I bought the boat it hadn't been off the jack stands for 3
yrs - and the mast was up the whole time (shrouds not loosened and 3 of
the 4 halyards just pulled up to the mast head --- rescued by the launch
crew for me)

Having just bought this boat I wonder if hauling the mast might be a
good idea so I can get a good look at the mast head, sheaves etc. That
said everything is working well -- is it easier to just go up the mast
in a bosuns chair and do an inspection from there?

Advice appreciated,
Mark


--


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Re: Stus-List Red light myth?

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

Ted:

Thanks for the description of what's happening to my eyesmakes lotd
of things clearer.

Incidentally, my wife's new Mercedes has ambient lighting surrounding the
interior at night which is Amber, I'm told that I can change it to red or
blue, but I agree that the amber is a very nice surrounding for night
driving.

The ambient lighting comes from strips of LEDs??? Along each side of the
door trim moldings under the window sill both front and back.

Best,

Ron C.


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joe Della
Barba via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, September 19, 2014 10:07 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Red light myth?

Red light for night vision is NOT a myth, but there are some issues with it.
I have long experience with it both sailing and as a pilot.
Any decent camera has a lens made of different types of glass layered
together or otherwise designed to focus red, green, and blue light in the
same spot. Our eyes do not - we have a simple one-element lens optimized
around green light. Red light is very poor for doing fine detail work or
reading small print. Most people lose flexibility in their lens as they age
and usually this results in not being able to focus as close as before -
i.e. reading glasses. This also affects the ability to focus red light. I
used to teach in a plane that only had red panel lighting and some of my
older students had a very hard time reading the instruments while I -
younger back then - had no issue at all. Red light is also horrible for
reading charts, all the color detail washes out.  We had another plane with
white instrument lights and red area lights for the cockpit. I liked that
one the best, we would turn up the red light enough to see what was what and
turn down the instrument lights until they were a very dim yellowish white.
If the white is dim enough it didn't ruin our night vision and was much
easier to read than just using the red overhead lights. Mercedes and Porsche
use a similar idea, or at least they did back when I had them. Both cars
used black dial instruments with orange-red needles and white lights. You
could dim it way down and still read the gauges just fine. BMW uses an
orange-red that works pretty well and Audi uses pure red. Once you get past
a certain age the organge-ish (amber?) color is easier to focus and I
think what you lose moving away from pure red you gain by not needing it to
be so bright* to focus.
* more camera tech. Bright light, for both cameras and your eyes, means
reducing the amount of light with your iris getting smaller or the
mechanical version in a camera. Due to the physics involved you gain depth
of field by doing this, so things are in focus in front of and behind the
focus point. If you are far sighted, you might be able to read something a
lot closer in bright light than in dim light because of this and red light
makes this happen even more.
So - IMHO and I Am Not An Eye Doctor - I have set my boat up with all red
lights for night sailing. The red is fine for getting around and finding
large objects. My compass has big enough markings to look fine in red light
as do the engine gauges. I can deploy a small dim white light at the chart
table if I need to, but it is a rare occasion now for me to work on paper
charts. I do set the computer plotter to be as dim as it can be an turn down
the screen brightness on the laptop to the lowest setting, but still in
color. If I shift it to night mode with black background I seem lose a lot
of detail. I do see many plotters WAY too bright at night. I see boats going
by with the helmsman clearly illuminated by the plotter. I do not see how
they can see even as far as the bow.

Joe Della Barba
Coquina
CC 35 MK I


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Re: Stus-List Sound exciter installation on a CC 30 sailboat

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

So Ted:

Just so I'm clear on what you did.you installed 2 of these exciters
behind the cockpit coaming sides...but you seem to have a volume dial
located where and available from who?

Thanks,  Ron C.

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joe at
Zialater via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, September 10, 2014 8:59 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Sound exciter installation on a CC 30 sailboat

Howdy all,

I installed the sound exciters on my 30 MK1 after watching Ted's video.  In
a word, fantastic.  They sound great and they are totally protected under
the cockpit.  No drilling or cutting needed and cheap to boot.  They attach
with double stick tape rings - I plan on working up a better solution for
that.I installed a WM7000 Bluetooth stereo from Westmarine - remote
control and lots of other good features.  

Here is a link to the exciters that I purchased -
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0072HYSUW/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8psc=
1.  4 ohms to match the wm stereo.

My kids come sailing with me more often now that they can stream their
iphones - and I have to listen to electronic dance music - fair enough
trade-off I guess.

Cheers,

Joe Boyle
Zia
30 MK1
Annapolis
Zialater.com


Message: 7
Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2014 22:47:10 -0400
From: Ted Drossos replus...@aol.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sound exciter installation on a CC 29 sailboat
Message-ID: 8d19ab8a6ae8ad0-2b28-a...@webmail-va018.sysops.aol.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Yes, the person who posted that video of the sound exciter installation on a
CC 29 is a lister. Me. I have to say that I was very skeptical when I
originally started that project but figured that it was worth a shot.
Cutting 6 diameter holes in my cockpit had prevented me from adding
speakers for many years. That YouTube video was taken with an iPad so the
sound quality isn't a true representation of the great sound that these
little sound exciters can produce. A typical speaker would also make nearby
objects vibrate if they were loose and in close proximity. It's not an
issue. This is a great solution to adding sound in the cockpit without
having to cut holes. They stay dry and can't be accidentally damaged by a
foot going through them. I've seen that happen all to often on other boats.


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Re: Stus-List Companionway hood

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

Bob:  Assuming that the hood is similar to my 38MKII.some thoughts on
the process might be useful to you.

 

I've replaced the sliding Plexiglas 3 times since I've owned the boat  (15
years)During the middle replacement, I decided to completely remove
the sliding components and made new teak ones  but in the process, I noted
that since the boat seems to sit bow down a little (so it sails flat when
crew is in the cockpit), I was collecting lots of water and finally rotted
stuff in the small space ahead of the slide.  That space holds about a half
gallon of water and over time it just gets gray and messy.  

 

Since you will have the hood off, and since your headliner is easily
accessible, consider this.I drilled out the forward corners of that
space and led a flared stainless tube down to connect with some Tygon tubing
and then out of the cabin side just forward of the windowsThe exit hole
is about a1/4 and is cut at the same anagle as the cabin sides so it
doesn't show.  All of the tubing is hidden by the headliner panels...

 

That area is now always dry and since there's a way out, I haven't had any
concern for over 5 years.  Every spring, I run a wire snake up from the side
to clear anything that has plugged the holes and never found anything of
substance.

 

Your leak at the corners of the companionway is likely caused by the aging
of the sealant used in making that teak frame for the drop boards.I had
mine taken off this year and there was hardly anything behind it.  So we
fabricated new ones from Starboard (seafoam matches our decks) and really
sealed the whole thing with sealant.

 

Been in for 4 months now and never a drop .since the bow down angle of
the boat at rest collects water up front, when you get in the cockpit, it
drains backward out of the  trough at each side of the sliding part of the
hatch and down onto the bridge deck seat.before it used to collect at
the base of the drop board and then into the spaces on either side that were
unsealed.

 

Maybe the job should be expanded to take care of your current problem and
any future issues than can come up ..doing it now prevents you from
doing it again...

 

Best,

 

Ron C.

Impromptu

CC 38MKIIC..'77

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert
Boyer via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 08, 2014 1:23 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Companionway hood

 

I am planning to remove my companionway hood and check for leaks later this
Fall.  Leaks into the hood are not an issue but I think the screws that
fasten the hood simply screw into the outer layer of fiberglass and
penetrate into the balsa core (like many other original fastenings).  I will
most likely remove a little core in the area of the screws and check it for
water.  I will probably drill out the holes to a bigger size (like 3/4-inch)
and then fill them with thickened epoxy.  After the epoxy hardens, I will
use a suitably sized pilot hole so the screws have something to bite into.
Even if it's not leaking into the core now, if you've gone to all the
trouble of removing the hood, why not fix it so it will never leak?  In this
case, there wouldn't be much of a need for any sealant.

 

In driving rains, I am getting a leak that exits near the companionway
steps--I think the companionway hood is the likely entrance for the water
(unless it is simply coming in at the companionway door).  If this is the
case (which I don't know for sure yet) my balsa core is probably wet in the
area.  We'll see...

 

Bob

Bob Boyer

S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD

1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230

email: dainyr...@icloud.com 

blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com

 

There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply
messing about in boats.  --Kenneth Grahame

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Re: Stus-List Stainless Grab Rails New Stanchion

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

Steve:

I agree with Wally...the only remaining piece of teak on my 38MKIIC
is the fiddle on the sliding companionway hatch.  Tops In Quality did mine
and they are a great addition to any boat..  I gave my teak maintenance
stuff away

I also hear that Tops In Quality was out of business, but check online to
see if anyone has taken them over.or find a local stainless
fabricator in your area...

Where is your area?

BE prepared to spend around $400-500 or so for a complete set.

Good luck,

Ron C.

P.S. I'm surprised that your email actually came throughwhat with all
that stuff hanging on the end of itI guess the list moderator was asleep
at the switch..





-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stephen
Thorne via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, July 30, 2014 3:01 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Stainless Grab Rails  New Stanchion




Guys,

I need to replace on of my stanchions which got bent in a not so sexy
departure from a dock recently.  Any ideas where I can source stanchions
same as my 1990 34+?

Also I am interested in replacing the old teak grab rails with a stainless
rail and wanted to know if anyone has done this and if so where did they go
to have said rail made?

Steve Thorne
Deja Vu
CC 34+
On Jul 16, 2014, at 6:20 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:


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Re: Stus-List Anyone remove the helm seat?

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

Joel:  I did it last year on my 38MKIIC.much more room, the cockpit can 
accommodate it and I like to sail from the lower leeward side to see 
telltales………..I find it much more agreeable Ron C.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jake 
Brodersen via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, July 22, 2014 9:10 PM
To: 'Joel Aronson'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Anyone remove the helm seat?

 

Joel,

 

Only one way to find out!  I think you may find the room behind the helm rather 
spacious without the seat there.  I tend to lean back into the seat with the 
backs of my legs.  Try it and see how it feels.

 

Jake

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, July 22, 2014 7:11 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Stus-List Anyone remove the helm seat?

 

I removed the helm seat in order to get to the rudder post bolts.  I'm thinking 
of leaving the seat out in order to create more space behind the wheel.  (I was 
going to try to make a teak seat with a more gentle contour.)

 

Has anyone else removed the seat?  What is it like sailing without it?

 

Joel

35/3

The Office

Annapolis 



-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551

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Re: Stus-List Jib sheet bowlines hang up on baby stay

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

Single soft shackle works great on my 38MKIIC……….They are relatively easy to 
make yourself, just google soft shackle and watch the video……….

 

Made mine out of Amsteel..

 

Ron C.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
wwadjo...@aol.com via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2014 10:13 PM
To: Dennis C. via CnC-List
Subject: Re: Stus-List Jib sheet bowlines hang up on baby stay

 

Dennis,  think a single soft shackle would work? 

Bill Walker.  

 

Sent from my HTC

 

- Reply message -
From: Dennis C. via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
To: Kevin Driscoll kevindrisc...@gmail.com mailto:kevindrisc...@gmail.com 
, CnClist cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Stus-List Jib sheet bowlines hang up on baby stay
Date: Wed, Jun 18, 2014 9:12 PM





I had a very similar problem times two.  Touche' has forward lower
shrouds.  It's like having two baby stays.  Touche's jibsheet bowlines hung
up on each of the forward lower shrouds on each tack.
 
I ordered new 3/8 VPC jibsheets with eyes in each end from apsltd.com.  To
attach the sheets to the sail, I used soft shackles, one on each eye.
 
Problem solved!  Our first tack with the new system was amazing.  The sails
flew through the foretriangle with little to no delay or hanging up.
Highly recommend the upgrade to soft shackles.
 
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
 
 
On Wed, Jun 18, 2014 at 8:21 PM, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com  wrote:
 
 I find that my jib sheet bowlines get hung up on my stay quite a bit,
 especially with my 130 on. Any suggestions?
 
 Thanks,
 Kevin
 30-2
 
 Sent from a mobile device.
 
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Re: Stus-List CC 38 mk1 vs mk2

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

HI Steve:  Just to add to the listing..my 1977 38 is Hull #125; the 
original build paperwork shows that it was built in the “Bruckman Shop” and has 
the designation of MKIIC.  Someone mentioned the PHRF ratings of the two……….New 
England PHRF rates the MKI at 111 and the MKII at 114.  Go figure.

 

My experience is that a rating around 114 would be tough to sail to in our 
fleets up here.  Adding the cruising allowance for a working roller furling 
adds 6 seconds to the racing rating.=120.   That makes my “Cruising” rating 132 
for a masthead rig.  Since I use an ASYM instead of a Symmetrical Spinnaker. I 
can declare “no pole” and that adds 9 Seconds to the 120………so today, I’m 
sailing with a racing rating of 129 and the cruising rating of 132………..and the 
boat will definitely sail to those ratings. 

 

This boat looks and runs like new……….even better with the Yanmar 
Saildrive…recommended by Rob Ball.

 

Best,

 

Ron C.

Impromptu

MKIIC…..’77

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan 
Plavsa via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2014 1:01 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List CC 38 mk1 vs mk2

 

Thanks for the replies guys. I guess I'm not crazy then! If the owners 
themselves don't know the difference I don't feel so bad. Also, it means the 
older boats are worth considering. I'm also reading mixed reports of cored vs 
non-cored hulls. Anyone care to comment on that one?? Mostly I read that they 
are cored all the way down.

 

Thanks,

Steve

Suhana, CC 32

Toronto

 

 

On Wed, Jun 18, 2014 at 11:57 AM, ahycrace--- via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com  wrote:

Jim and Steve
My 1976 hull# 99 has old perf papers that call it a mk I.  I 
have been trying to find out the difference for years. At the Mystic rendezvous 
I asked Rob Ball and he didn't know said it might have been a marketing thing.

.Gary Kolc..Liberty

 jtsails via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 Steve, the break between the Mk1 and Mk2 is a total mystery to me. I own Hull 
 #100 which was built in 1976 while Rick Brass has hull #47 built sometime in 
 1975? All evidence indicates that my boat is a Mk2 while Rick's is a Mk1. I 
 have been on both boats and I'll be darned if I can find any difference and 
 in my opinion there is no difference. My guess is that CC didn't like the 
 measurement certificate for the early boats and decided to call the next 
 years boat a Mk2 to get the boat remeasured (just a stab in the dark guess 
 though). Keep in mind that the 38 was designed as a large 1 tonner and the 
 Mk1 was rated slightly above the cut off. I have also noticed that the 
 brochures on the the website do not make any distinction in the different 
 years. Various sources list different dimensions for the beam measurement, 
 and again I can't spot it between the two boats. I suspect that is due to 
 measuring the beam on deck (narrower) versus the overall beam (wider). Some 
 of the sources list the Mk1 as being 6 narrower but that is about the amount 
 of tumblehome in the sides. PHRF also rates them the same.
 James
 S/V Delaney
 1976 CC 38
 Oriental, NC
   - Original Message -
   From: Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List
   To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
   Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2014 8:46 AM
   Subject: Stus-List CC 38 mk1 vs mk2


   Hi All,


   I can't seem to find what the cut-off date was for the 38 between the mk1 
 and the mk2. Any ideas? I'm not buying a new boat anytime soon but you know, 
 window shopping and maintaining a short list. Sailboatdata lists the MK2 as 
 having IOR specific changes over the MK1, not sure what that means though? 
 The MK3 is a totally different boat. The 38 has really grown on me and I 
 think it's a really pretty boat. I've read that at least one or two have 
 circumnavigated and they are a lot of boat for the money. Just looking for 
 more info.


   Thanks,
   Steve
   Suhana, CC 32
   Toronto









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Re: Stus-List CC 37+ Centerboard (I'm told 34+ is similar)

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

Just an added note:

My yard is now working on a Tartan 40 with the very same arrangement.  CB
pivots at the  leading edge of the keel and the fitting for the cable on
that boat is actually a block anchoring system where the end of the cable is
located up in the trunk and the block at the CB gives a 2:1 purchase up
through the keel into the cabin.

 

The CB block anchor corroded and just pulled out...

 

Seems to be the standard design for such a system.

 

Ron C.

Impromptu

CC 38MKIIC .'77

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Charles
Nelson via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 09, 2014 8:18 PM
To: Edd Schillay; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List CC 37+ Centerboard (I'm told 34+ is similar)

 

My board requires a yard travel lift to get the room to have the board
hanging only by the pin--it appears that CC designed them that way. Then
everything is reasonably accessible.

 

The pennant travel passes thru a cabin top 'stop', then a sheave directing
it vertically thru a SS tube thru the cabin floor to another sheave that
directs it horizontal again just beneath the cabin sole to another sheave
that directs it vertically thru the cb trunk/keel to the aft end go the
elliptical board. This is different than the sketch Edd provided. I'll send
it out when I get to a computer with it loaded on it. This drawing was done
by Rob Bell in Oct 1993.

 

The sheaves are mounted in SS 'boxes' that have watertight SS access ports
for inspection and running new pennants--both well below the waterline!

 

Further the keel bolts are into the cb trunk 'outside' the space that the cb
occupies. 

 

I now have the pennant inspected during each yearly haul out for bottom
painting, etc. and plan to replace it on a 5 year basis unless the yearly
inspection indicates that it should be replaced sooner.

 

I know a lot more about cb design than I should but such is the life of a cb
boat owner. Given my use of the boat and where it 'lives', I would buy
another one without hesitation although I think a lifting keel would be the
best but probably more costly.

 

Charlie Nelson

Water Phantom

CC 36XL/kcb

Sent from my iPad


On Jun 9, 2014, at 5:31 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

Chuck,

 

Had a long talk with a yard owner about this who is familiar
with the boat (he provided the diagram.) 

 

I'm not sure about those few keel bolts other than to think they
don't go down that far so the board can go up. 

 

As you can see, with the board down, the cable access is still
deep inside the trunk - my divers were unable to get in there with any
light/tools. I'm told the only way to replace the cable is to haul the boat
at least 8 feet in the air, take apart the table so the steel tube and
access to the pulley below the waterline can be reached and taken apart.
Then snake the cable through and have someone try to reconnect inside the
trunk (not a lot of space to work with). 

 

My club can't get the boat that high, so every time I would want
to replace the cable, I'm looking at a commercial yard with commercial yard
rates (they'd have to do the work too.) $. 



 

All the best,

 

Edd

 

 

Edd M. Schillay

Starship Enterprise

CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

City Island, NY 

Starship Enterprise's http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/
Captain's Log

 

On Jun 9, 2014, at 5:20 PM, Chuck S cscheaf...@comcast.net wrote:





Hi Edd,

How are the keel bolts laid out?  Are they on either side of the
centerboard?

 

And the pendent is fed thru a tube sealed to the cabin floor?

 

How do you access the pulley that is placed below the waterline?

 

 

 

Chuck
Resolute
1990 CC 34R

Broad Creek,
Magothy River, Md

 


  _  


From: CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com
To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Monday, June 9, 2014 11:56:25 AM
Subject: Stus-List CC 37+ Centerboard (I'm told 34+ is similar)

 

Stu (and any Listers who may be interested),

 

 You may want this document on the Photo Album site which may be of use to
others - it's a diagram of the CC 37+ (and XL) centerboard. I'm told that
the 34+ and XL centerboard models are very similar. 

 

 https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15162917/ENTERPRISE/centerboard.pdf 

 

 Also, a correction on the site:  Under CC Owners Homepages, could you
change my link to www.starshipsailing.com http://www.starshipsailing.com/
? Also, the Enterprise isn't a 37/40XL, but a 37+ (or 37/40+)

 

 Lastly, I have some photos of the 37+ interior and Dock Photos if you
want them. What is the best way to get these to you? 

 

 Thanks for all you do. 

 

 

 All the best,

 

 Edd

 

 

 Edd M. Schillay

 Starship Enterprise

 CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

 City Island, NY 



 Starship Enterprise's Captain's 

Re: Stus-List PO,ed

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

2 things.change the subject for this topic. It's too important not to
overlook like I did a minute ago..

 

Then.I use Comcast email and outlook.I cannot find any note of an
unsubscribe command anywhere on my emails  the highlighted
mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com doesn't go
anywhere..

 

Ron C.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Bina
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, May 14, 2014 10:36 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List PO,ed

 

That incident changed the way I think about when is a good time to be
clipped on, and wearing a PFD. Previous to that, I had never really thought
about being thrown off the boat by another boat smashing into me in
otherwise relatively benign conditions. I never thought to take those
precautions when slowly and peacefully gliding along in fog... especially on
a weekday, when most of the weekend warriors are not out on the water,
speeding around with no lights, radio, or horn signals. 

Bill Bina

On 5/14/2014 9:40 AM, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List wrote:

In 2003 a J105 heading for Block Island race week crashed into a large motor
yacht because the crew of the J105 could not figure out how to stop the
tiller auto pilot.  The captain was below and had a heart attack after the
collision and died on the way to the hospital.  No one was on watch on the
yacht which was also on autopilot.  Sometimes pushing the right button isn't
easy.  Jerry

 

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Re: Stus-List Standing water on deck

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

So, Cut a piece of sponge about 1” square and 3-5 inches long.  Slice it
half way through near the center.  Now insert the sponge through your rail
hole near the water pool and open the cut slot to fit over the lower part of
the rail……… and then leave it alone and never touch it again.

 

The water absorbs into the sponge and since the outer end is “lower” than
the inner end, water flows overboard and the whole thing dries up in the
sunpick a dark color sponge and never take them out

 

Or you can remove them for sailing and then put them back afterward…..DO
NOT CUT into the RAIL….

 

Ron C.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of JOHN D
IRVIN via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2014 3:02 PM
To: mcrom...@bell.blackberry.net; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Standing water on deck

 

You can also use a bit of cotton rope as a siphon, removing it while under
way of course. Almost like a baggywrinkle. 



 

From: via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2014 2:52:12 PM
Subject: Stus-List Standing water on deck


Hi all,

I just recently bought a CC 33 Mk II and have noticed that I have standing
water around the aft part of the toerail for several days after a rainfall. 

I was thinking of putting a notch in the toerail to help it drain (at least
most of it) or perhaps a little 90 degree scupper from the deck to the hull.
Or am i better off just to leave well enough alone?

Thanks,
Mike
Atacama, Toronto 
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
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Re: Stus-List Shroud roller

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

We use a ½” piece of PVC pipe.about $2.00 and wipe with acetone to remove 
the plumbing printing…….has worked great for over 10 years…

 

This year, we took the baby stay off.  I’m just never going to be anywhere 
where I’ll need it…

 

Ron C.

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ken Heaton 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2014 12:55 PM
To: Joel Aronson; cnc-list
Subject: Re: Stus-List Shroud roller

 

It is a good idea to get one size oversize so they spin easily on the wire.  
They don't hold moisture that way either.

 

Ken H.

 

On 8 May 2014 10:33, Joel Aronson via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com  wrote:

Also, covering SS wire leads to more corrosion.  Most riggers will tell you not 
to use them.

 

You might consider shroud rollers:

http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|118|2358491|2358503 
http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1%7C118%7C2358491%7C2358503id=161924
 id=161924

 

Joel

35/3

Annapolis

 

On Thu, May 8, 2014 at 8:49 AM, Robert Abbott via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com  wrote:

Rich:

Good point which is why I put a few wraps of white tape on mine on both ends 
and in the middle so the cover can't slip open.   And since it is only on my 
babystay, I rarely grab it for an support.



Rob Abbott
AZURA
CC 32 - 84

Halifax, N.S.





On 2014/05/08 9:32 AM, Rich Knowles wrote:

Just a safety note on the car cover:  I had them on my CC 27, they looked 
right sharp!  I took them off shortly after on the day I climbed on board 
grabbing a shroud for support.  The cover split open, collapsed down the shroud 
and dumped me on my butt on the dock. Close call. Never again. 


Rich


On May 8, 2014, at 9:20, Robert Abbott via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com  wrote:

David:

I have a baby stay as well.as Ken pointed out on the Binnacle site, I use 
both the six foot length of 'cable cover' on the babystay itself and then the 
'turnbuckle cap cover' on the turnbuckle on the bottom.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
CC 32 - 84
Halifax. N.S.



On 2014/05/08 6:21 AM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List wrote:

Are looking for a cover for the cable itself like these: 
http://us.binnacle.com/Sailboat-Hardware-Cable-covers/c28_148/index.html 

 

Or a cover for the turnbuckles like these (scroll down a bit to Turnbuckle 
Boot): http://us.binnacle.com/Sailboat-Hardware-Turnbuckles- 
http://us.binnacle.com/Sailboat-Hardware-Turnbuckles--Accessories/c28_147/index.html
 -Accessories/c28_147/index.html

 

Ken H.

 

On 7 May 2014 23:08, David Knecht via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com  wrote:

My boat came with white plastic tubing on the babystay, which I am told are 
called shroud rollers.  I was told that it protects the genoa while tacking.  
The tubing itself is cracked in various places and I am thinking of replacing 
it, but can’t find anything similar online.  Does anyone know a source?  Dave 

 

 

David Knecht

Aries

1990 CC 34+

New London, CT




 

 

 

 

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-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551 tel:301%20541%208551  


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Re: Stus-List Technical sail discussion

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

Dennis:  Now if you want another 9 secondsditch the spinnaker pole and 
declare “no pole” and go straight to your ASYM…Ron C.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2014 8:59 AM
To: Dennis C.; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Technical sail discussion

 

Dennis,

 

My limited understanding of aerodynamics is that if the foot is not on the dock 
then the higher pressure is allowed to leak under the foot to the low 
pressure side, diminishing lift.  That's why they now have tips on airplane 
wings.  If the cabin causes upward deflection, that may be more than offset by 
maintaining the pressure differential.  But either way, you are +6 sec./mile!

 

Joel

35/3

Annapolis

 

On Wed, May 7, 2014 at 8:51 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com  wrote:

I recently re-filed my PHRF certificate to get +6 seconds for a roller furler.  
Subsequently, I just had the luff my Mylar/Kevlar 155 cut down to fit on the 
furler.  My sailmaker cut a bunch off the foot.

I was chatting about loosing the sail area with one of the really good sailors 
in the club. He said it may actually be a good thing that the foot is higher 
off the deck. He said with the older narrow IOR designs, deck sweeper genoas 
may cause the slot to be less efficient. Might increase the bubble in the main.

In my simplistic mind I kinda see where he's coming from. The slot gets 
restricted at the deck by the cabin. The lower part of the air flow would get 
pushed upward into the bottom of the main. A higher foot allows some flow to 
escape and keep the air flow lines smooth in the lower slot.

Does this make sense?

Dennis C.
Touché 35-1 #83
MandevilleLA

Sent from my iPhone
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-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551 

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Re: Stus-List Whisker pole - Now racing insurance?

[Ron Casciato]

But you drive every day with uninsured motorists... At usually dangerous 
speeds 
Ron C.

Sent from my iPhone

 On Apr 4, 2014, at 10:39 PM, johnr...@aol.com wrote:
 
 I certainly would not race against uninsured boats.
 
 John McLaughlin
 CC29-2
 Falcon
 
 
 -Original Message-
 From: Dennis C. capt...@gmail.com
 To: CnClist cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Sent: Fri, Apr 4, 2014 6:59 pm
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Whisker pole - Now racing insurance?
 
 Guess I'm in a weird area.  Louisiana is fairly litigious but I've never been 
 asked for insurance for dockage or racing.  For racing, a valid PHRF 
 certificate is all I've been asked for.  We occasionally have to sign a 
 liability waiver for some races.
 
 I have been asked for it for dockage in Florida.
 
 I think the race organizers around here think that the USSailing coverage is 
 adequate.
 
 Dennis C.
 
 
 On Fri, Apr 4, 2014 at 5:50 PM, Rick Taillieu rtaill...@eastlink.ca wrote:
 Dennis,
  
 Pretty much all the clubs in the area require at least $1 million liability 
 insurance.
 My club requires a current copy of the insurance certificate to be on file 
 in the office to keep a boat here.
  
 Rick Taillieu
 Nemesis
 '75 CC 25  #371
 Shearwater Yacht Club
 Halifax, NS.
  
  
  
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C.
 Sent: April-04-14 17:53
 To: CnClist
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Whisker pole - Now racing insurance?
  
 Mike,
 $2 million insurance?  Hmmm.  Interesting policy.
 How many other racing organizers require insurance?  I've never had to show 
 in any race in my area. 
  
 Dennis C.
 Touche' 35-1 #83
 Mandeville, LA
  
 On Fri, Apr 4, 2014 at 2:15 PM, Michael Brown m...@tkg.ca wrote:
 Well, $100 was pretty cheap. I have a twist lock that I may sell. Since 
 getting the
 larger line control I have not used it much. As mentioned earlier, even at 
 17' it
 is small for a #1.
 
 If you would like to race National Yacht Club has a policy of welcoming 
 racers from
 nearby clubs to join us for week night racing. You could race NFS on 
 Tuesdays, FS
 on Wednesday, and there is a special beginners NFS on Thursdays. NYC also 
 starts
 the race for the Alexandra Yacht Club on Thursdays. We have two Around the
 Island weekend races a year with an open invitation. You will need a PHRF-LO
 certificate and show $2M insurance coverage.
 
 If you are getting brave I have a spinnaker I could loan you.
 
 Mike
 
 Date: Fri, 4 Apr 2014 14:51:44 -0400 
 From: Stevan Plavsa stevanpla...@gmail.com 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Whisker pole - 32 
 Message-ID: 
 caddevn5ebva9ow1xprcexszmf91jv+jz-thgsuxvrzgsmbe...@mail.gmail.com 
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 
 
 Thanks Dwight. I haven't raced the boat yet (except for some fun races the 
 club hosts annually). The keelboat racing scene at our small club is 
 dwindling but yeah, I plan to participate in the weekly races this year. 
 
 Steve 
 Suhana, CC 32 
 Toronto
 
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Re: Stus-List Documentation

[Ron Casciato]

Harry:

 

I agree with these guys on doing it yourself UNLESS.the previous
owner did not renew the documentation and the previous to previous owner
still had an undischarged lien on the boat.

 

I bought Impromptu in Sept. of 1997.previous owner told me it was
documented.he didn't tell me that he had not re-documented in his
name

 

So when I went to try to re-document the boat in my name with a new boat
name..the Documentation office told me that it had a mortgage still on
it and I would have to get that discharged firstI actually had a copy
of the mortgage discharge papers from a bank that no longer existed or was
bought up by one of the larger banks in the Boston area..

So a 14 year stalemate ensued.with several exchanges of information but
they wanted original documents of the discharge and original bills of
sale.

 

I got the name of a documentation expert in our area from a friend and
after almost 2 years, she has now completed the documentation of my boat
with new owner and new name an hailing port and I have the new Documentation
paperwork from the USCG.  

She was able to reconstruct the original sale by the previous owners and
actually found the bank that had absorbed the previous lien and was able to
produce a signed notice of satisfaction that the USCG approved

 

As it turned out, she was the original documentation service that did the
paperwork for the twice previous owner in the first place in 1983.

 

So the moral; of the story is that if it's simple, do it yourself.if a
mortgage from a previous owner is involved.get help.  The bill for doing
mine was $475.plus the USCG charge  Took over 2 years to get done,
most of that time waiting for the USCG to get back to us for information...

 

Good luck,

 

Ron Casciato

Impromptu

CC 38MKIIC   '77

 

 

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh
Muckley
Sent: Tuesday, January 28, 2014 1:08 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Documentation

 

Rick,
I guess it depends on the bank.  I had to fight with my bank just to add
coastwise trade endorsement.  Not changing name or lien holder or anything
else.

On Jan 28, 2014 12:35 PM, Rick Brass rickbr...@earthlink.net wrote:

Wrong, Josh. The bank will require the lien be recorded. You can do the
paperwork yourself and mail in a copy of the mortgage paperwork. There is a
fee, but it is a lot less than $390.

 

And, BTW, Harry, is the $390 inclusive of the various USCG fees or in
addition to them?

 

Rick Brass

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh
Muckley
Sent: Tuesday, January 28, 2014 10:45 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Documentation

 

Not unless you have a bank involved...then the bank requires you to pay the
$390.

 


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Re: Stus-List Fwd: bow sprit

[Ron Casciato]

Bill:  I agree with Pete.

 

This list did a relatively thorough discussion of furling ASYM's and sprits
several months ago, maybe that thread is still available in the archives

 

As I recall and having had the same yearnings about adding a furler for my
ASYM last year.the consensus was that significant load is generated from
the ASYM and furler that additional support below the sprit needs to be
added (Bobstay??).  Additionally, the furler at the bottom is nice, but
the swivel at the top right next to the original headsail furler is just too
close to not get jammedso a crane is also required

 

I chickened out and decided to just force my crew to learn how to do a jibe
and take down the sail without furling.and they did it...

 

You can check out Selden who makes an after market one.(Sprit and
furler).   But you really want to think about it more with someone who has
already done it successfully

 

Best,

 

Ron C.

Impromptu

CC 38MMKIIC..'77

 

 

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Pete
Shelquist
Sent: Tuesday, January 28, 2014 3:14 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fwd: bow sprit

 

Bill - 

Heads up: Depending on the head of your asym and dimensions of headsail  and
asym furlers, a sprit may not be enough.  IE you may need to extend the
crane at the top of the mast too.

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
wwadjo...@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 28, 2014 11:55 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Fwd: bow sprit

 

- Forwarded message -
From: wwadjo...@aol.com wwadjo...@aol.com
To: Wally Bryant w...@wbryant.com
Subject: Stus-List bow sprit
Date: Sun, Jan 26, 2014 11:02 AM

 

Just returning from Chicago Strictly Sail show with itch to add furler for
my assym sail.  Looks like will need to add a sprit To get clearance from
the roller furled headsail.  Anyone made this modification?  I see Practical
Sailor doing piece on A sail furlers.  
Bill WALKER
EVENING STAR
CnC 36
Pentwater, Mi
 
 
Sent from my HTC
 
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Re: Stus-List PHRF Question

[Ron Casciato]

I would go to www.regattaman.com http://www.regattaman.com/  ..

 

Most of the PHRF racing in New England is run by this program.  It scores
finishes immediately and uploads results to the web

 

By the time we get the boat in and go to the local pub, results are already
available...and for series scores, it tabulates them as well, instantly.

 

Very nifty.

 

Ron C.

Impromptu

CC 38MKIIC..'77

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ronald B.
Frerker
Sent: Wednesday, January 15, 2014 6:03 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List PHRF Question

 

I can't believe there's a race committee quick enough to require split
second timing!  Most are lucky to get with in a half minute.

Ron

Wild Cheri

CC 30

STL

 

 

  _  

From: Gary Nylander gnylan...@atlanticbb.net
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Wednesday, January 15, 2014 3:03 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List PHRF Question

 

I also used RaceSail for years and our Friday group uses it still. RaceSail
supports just about everything you need - I used it for low point scoring,
the Friday folks use high point - the author (nice guy) is responsive to
corrections and upgrades (or used to be - its been a while).

 

The only downside is that it only scores down to the second - the guy who
took over for me wanted it down to half a second.

 

Gary

 

 

- Original Message - 

From: Gary Russell mailto:captnga...@gmail.com  

To: C mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com C List 

Sent: Wednesday, January 15, 2014 2:22 PM

Subject: Re: Stus-List PHRF Question

 

We use RaceSail which is free and can be downloaded from the Internet.  It
seems to do everything we need.  It's not the easiest software to learn, but
it is free and does the job nicely.  It supports race series and pursuit
starts.  It also supports multiple handicapping methods including PHRF
time-on-time and time-on-distance. 

 

Gary

S/V Expresso

CC 35 Mk II

East Greenwich, RI, USA

 

 

On Wed, Jan 15, 2014 at 2:14 PM, Glen Eddie ged...@torkinmanes.com wrote:

Hello everyone,

 

I have been given the task of updating our club's Racing software for
Wednesday night PHRF races.  If anyone knows what there club uses or better
yet has experience with the various software options it would be
appreciated.  We are on Lake Ontario (PHRF LO) and the PHRF association does
not make any recommendations on software choices.

 

Your assistance is appreciated.  

 

Freya IV
CC 35 Mk I
Toronto

 


  _  



Glen Eddie


Tel:  416-777-5357


Fax:  1-888-812-2557


ged...@torkinmanes.com


VCard http://www.torkinmanes.com/lawyers/vcards/g_eddie.vcf 

Torkin Manes LLP
Barristers  Solicitors

151 Yonge Street, Suite 1500
Toronto ON M5C 2W7 
 http://www.torkinmanes.com/ torkinmanes.com
 http://www.ialawfirms.com/ Member of the International Alliance of Law
Firms

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Re: Stus-List Scouting report on old CC 38s

[Ron Casciato]

 

HI Jim:  Congratulationsnow the fun starts.

 

I have a couple of thoughts about your new purchase of a 1977 CC 38MKII.
First, do you know the hull HIN number, located at the upper right of the
transom?  I own

Hull # 125, a 1977 CC 38MKIIC.  

 

I’ve owned my boat for over 15 years and we sail it regularly on Wednesday
PHRF racing in the B fleet.  Mine rates 129 Racing and 132
Cruising……complicated by the rating allowances I take on the set up of
sails, furler and the no pole option in NE.

 

We sail consistently in the top 3 boats of the local B fleet and as other
have mentioned, you do get aggravated up against a stripped out Pearson
flyer carrying the same rating and  8,000 pounds less for weight.

 

But for the boat, I agree with comments on great looks, great stability
(feels like your driving a truck) and comments about solid construction.  My
storage yard constantly is amazed at how sturdy the boat is during
transport, etc.  while others creak and groan and need to be handled just
so.

 

There’s way more room that you will use, and with a few modifications, she
is absolutely comfortable in all conditions.

 

A few things’ I would suggest you explore early in the relationship, most
aimed at making your mate feel more comfortable handling the boat.:

 

First, For sail handling, I would explore a modification to the mast
slot/track.  Tides Marine of Florida produces a Delrin insert into your mast
slot that converts the job of raising and lowering the main easy for any
first mate.  The modification is easy and can be done by yourself in an
afternoon.  While they tell me that  you can make the modification while the
mast is up, mine was down and I liked the ease of handling everything at
waist level, etc. Link:  https://www.tidesmarine.com
https://www.tidesmarine.com/   click on sail track and check the video.   

 

Second, as commented, the windows (ports) on a vintage CC don’t open and
are prone to leakage on occasion and are a regular topic on this discussion
list for replacing gaskets, etc.  .  I found that Lewmar makes an excellent
opening port light that is within a ¼” of the overall dimensions of the 38
window openings……I replaced the 4 windows in the main cabin and the single
window in the head early on and have enjoyed a free flow of air and dry
cabin since.  

 

There are several other nice modifications you could make, but those two are
the most important in my opinion, do first.  No hassle sail raising and
lowering and being able to air out the cabin are very high on my
satisfaction list.

 

If your interested, I could send you a few pictures to see the results.  

 

Another NBN², (nice but not necessary) was the replacement of the wooden
handrails with a set of stainless ones for the cabin top.  I prefer to do
less teak maintenance every year and the handrails are another topic of
discussion……….Tops in Quality made mine for the right price………..but I’m not
sure they still exist.

 

Lastly, get to know the Garhauer products.price and performance clearly
separate them for your use. Rigid boom vang, adjustable genoa track cars,
traveller parts, etc.

 

Enjoy the boat, you’ll not be disappointed and don’t concerned about the
downwind stuff………..it’s the upwind stuff that you’ll be raving about very
soon………

 

And to mimic the CC 38 MKI “Zealot”, she is the prettiest boat in the
line.OK, OK, it wasn’t me, Rick started it.

 

Good Luck,

 

Ron Casciato

Impromptu

CC 38MKIIC….’77

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Re: Stus-List Crack where keel meets hull

[Ron Casciato]

Peter:

 

This may just confuse the topic more, but here goes:

 

Our boats, in almost all cases, do not have the lead butting up against the
fiberglass hull as such.  You boat must have some sort of keel sump (bilge)
that extends down below the Hull.  It's where water collects and where the
keel boats are visible.  That sump usually is about 12  deep on boats
over 35 feet

 

If your crack is truly right up under the hull and not down the keel shape
about 12-14 or so, then you may have a very serious issue.  In the worst
case, that stub could fall off taking the keel with it.  That result could
be tragic.  

 

If, however, the crack you are describing is actually around the keel at a
distance of 12-14 down the side of the keel from the belly of the hull,
then the Smile repair topics on the CC site are more than sufficient to
fix it.  

 

I, like Dennis, have had that joint sanded, covered with Glass and recoated
with barrier coat and bottom paint and that was in 1998.  There has been no
subsequent issue.

 

It sounds like a couple of sketches would help this confusion, but I'm not
competent enough with graphics to do one, maybe someone on the list could
help out here.

 

Best,

 

Ron C.

Impromptu

CC 38MKIIC ..'77

 

 

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Peter
Sent: Tuesday, December 17, 2013 12:15 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Crack where keel meets hull

 

Wish I had a picture.. but it is the complete circumference of where the led
keel buts up against the fibreglass hull - there is a clear crack all
around, but as I said, it does not go very deep. It is the only boat in the
yard exhibiting this (but then most of the boats in the yard are traditional
cruising boats). 

 

Not sure where you mean by 'where the hull turns into the stub'.

 

Thanks,

Peter

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tim
Goodyear
Sent: December-17-13 11:40 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Crack where keel meets hull

 

Peter, are you talking keel joint (fiberglass keel stub joint to lead keel)
or where the hull turns into the stub?  I have been fighting the latter for
a couple of years and it is a much bigger deal than the former.  It looks
like we'll need more surgery this winter.

 

Tim

Mojito

CC 35-3

Branford, CT

On Tue, Dec 17, 2013 at 10:41 AM, Peter pe...@cruisingnet.com wrote:

I have a 1974 CC 39. I leave it in Mexico on the hard for the summers and
try to spend a few months sailing during the winter.

There is a clear demarcation where the keel meets the hull. it does not go
deep, and there certainly is no leaking of water into the boat. Some of the
folks in the yard seem to think that there is a problem. However, I have had
others suggest that I simply put some Sikaflex or 5200 on it and paint over
it.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.


Kind Regards,
Peter White
SV Outrider


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Re: Stus-List bowsprit/asym

[Ron Casciato]

Eric:  
This is an active topic this time of year. but I'd make sure you are
reading your regs, correctly.  
Here in New England, the Handicapping section of the website www.nephrf.org
specifically discusses using an ASYM vs SYM spinnakers.

Basically, if you race in a fleet with spinnakers, using an ASYM, there is
no penalty to your racing rating.  If you then disclose that you have no
pole you get a 9 sec. allowance added to your racing rating.

If, however, you decide to use a sprit you can go 10% of the J dimension
without a penalty, for every 10% additional, you get a 3 second penalty.  

I've had this reviewed for my 38MKIIC with a 16.5' J.  the longest I can
go beyond the tack fitting is 19.2 anything longer incurs a penalty.  

Someone mentioned the furling ASYM systems..which are really nifty.
The issue for boats without a sprit is that that clearance at the top often
binds and it gets hairy when rolling up the ASYM.  You'd have to add a
crane out in front of the current mast plate to accommodate both furlers
at the top.  Additionally, the stresses on the sprit pole is significant
since the torsion rope luff needs to be tensioned very tight..as someone
also said, these systems are evolving and may need some time to mature.

Agreed, however, on the Selden system.excellent materials and design..

Good luck with your project, just check the details of the rating system in
your area.

Best,

Ron C.
Impromptu
CC 38MKIIC  '77


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Will
Harris
Sent: Sunday, December 08, 2013 11:26 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List bowsprit/asym

For the boats you guys are talking about, CC 34, CC 40s etc., in 
fairness you should get a hefty PHRF CREDIT, for switching to asyms.  
You guys can cream the sprit boats dead down in moderate breeze.  Just 
pull the pole back and aim for the mark.

I sailed an RCYC Open a few years back on a really well-sailed Bene 
10.4, ( awful boat... but I digress).
Red Jacket was in our class and we owed her a bunch of time.  We'd 
dust her upwind, then go reaching around on our gybe angles.  She'd 
round behind, square back and just grind our bendy, french asses into dust.

If it was a 5 leg course, we had a chance. Downwind finish??... 
fageddaboudit.

Not all PHRF committees have figured this out.  If you do switch, your 
rating should get significantly BETTER.  Sadly, it probably won't.

-- 
Will Harris
Waterline Systems

716-531-6088


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Re: Stus-List Flying lead keel + New Wing sail for monohulls alaAC72.

[Ron Casciato]

Gary: I think the problem with his project is that he mentioned going for
speed.and I'm not sure he's moved far enough in the project to do much
other than a straight line

 

I may Google him to see if he's still at it.  I thought that video ws a
couple of years old.

 

It won't be the sails that cost, from the article I have, it will be the
inside mast (s) and cantilevered fore-boom. but they did convert an Elan
37 for the article and it looks great.

 

Slip me an address off line and I'll use the article for packing something, 

 

rjcasci...@comcast.net

 

Ron

 

 

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary
Russell
Sent: Monday, November 11, 2013 7:15 AM
To: CC List
Subject: Re: Stus-List Flying lead keel + New Wing sail for monohulls
alaAC72.

 

Hi Ron,

 I did consider that hull shape (or rudder) might provide the lift
required to counteract leeway, but was surprised the speaker didn't talk
about it. Good promoters don't leave questions unanswered.

 

 The Formula wing sail is very cool!  Can't wait to see what my
sailmaker will charge for that one!

 

Gary

 

On Sun, Nov 10, 2013 at 9:15 PM, Ron Casciato rjcasci...@comcast.net
wrote:

Gary: 

 

If I saw the video correctly, from the force images, etc., the surface areas
of the hull at speed are only about a quarter of the whole hull and on the
rear quarter where he has a big rudder on each side.  If the surface area of
the hull approximates a much smaller hull shape, like a dinghy, then the
rudder should be enough to hold leeway to a controllable amount.

 

It's the lift that our keels provide and I'm not sure he doesn't have some
step or other shape in the hull under the water that might do the same
thing.

 

I'm ready to fill out a APHRF handicap sheet and send it in just to shake it
up a bit.

 

So now check out the web site for Formula-marine.com and scroll down to
their Omer One Sail There is an article in the British journal of
Yachting Monthly , October 2013 issue that tests this Wing Sail  out on an
Elan 37. They have a short video with some dramatic views of this rig
set up.  Lots of good stuff going on out there..

http://www.formulamarine.com/projects-2/projects-carbon/omer-wing-sail   The
rest of their web sdite is also very interesting.

 

Best,

 

Ron C.

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary
Russell
Sent: Sunday, November 10, 2013 8:33 PM
To: CC List
Subject: Re: Stus-List Flying lead keel

 

Jake,

 Agreed.

Gary

 

On Sun, Nov 10, 2013 at 8:31 PM, Jake Brodersen captain_j...@cox.net
wrote:

Gary,

 

With this type of design, a centerboard or other type of structure would be
needed to avoid excessive leeway,

 

On you second point, I agree.  Stability will be vanishing as the bulb gets
higher above the water.  It could certainly make for some interesting
sailing.  Self righting might be an issue.

 

Jake

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary
Russell
Sent: Sunday, November 10, 2013 8:28 PM
To: CC List


Subject: Re: Stus-List Flying lead keel

 

My first problem with this canting design is that a typical keel performs
two functions; a counter-balance for the forces against the sail, and a
lifting foil to generate lift to windward to counteract leeway.  I only see
the counter-balance in this design.

 

My second problem with this design is the fact that as heel increases, the
effect of the keel weight gets less, unless you continuously adjust the cant
angle to keep it just above the water.

 

Am I missing something?  I'm not saying these are insurmountable problems,
but I don't see them addressed in Speed Dream.

 

Gary

 

On Sun, Nov 10, 2013 at 7:22 PM, Chuck S cscheaf...@comcast.net wrote:

Hey Dwight,
That's an amazing canting keel design.  Guess we have to wait and see if
such ideas will sell in the future?

Chuck
Resolute
1990 CC 34R
Atlantic City, NJ


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Re: Stus-List Flying lead keel + New Wing sail for monohulls ala AC72.

[Ron Casciato]

Gary: 

 

If I saw the video correctly, from the force images, etc., the surface areas
of the hull at speed are only about a quarter of the whole hull and on the
rear quarter where he has a big rudder on each side.  If the surface area of
the hull approximates a much smaller hull shape, like a dinghy, then the
rudder should be enough to hold leeway to a controllable amount.

 

It's the lift that our keels provide and I'm not sure he doesn't have some
step or other shape in the hull under the water that might do the same
thing.

 

I'm ready to fill out a APHRF handicap sheet and send it in just to shake it
up a bit.

 

So now check out the web site for Formula-marine.com and scroll down to
their Omer One Sail There is an article in the British journal of
Yachting Monthly , October 2013 issue that tests this Wing Sail  out on an
Elan 37. They have a short video with some dramatic views of this rig
set up.  Lots of good stuff going on out there..

http://www.formulamarine.com/projects-2/projects-carbon/omer-wing-sail   The
rest of their web sdite is also very interesting.

 

Best,

 

Ron C.

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary
Russell
Sent: Sunday, November 10, 2013 8:33 PM
To: CC List
Subject: Re: Stus-List Flying lead keel

 

Jake,

 Agreed.

Gary

 

On Sun, Nov 10, 2013 at 8:31 PM, Jake Brodersen captain_j...@cox.net
wrote:

Gary,

 

With this type of design, a centerboard or other type of structure would be
needed to avoid excessive leeway,

 

On you second point, I agree.  Stability will be vanishing as the bulb gets
higher above the water.  It could certainly make for some interesting
sailing.  Self righting might be an issue.

 

Jake

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary
Russell
Sent: Sunday, November 10, 2013 8:28 PM
To: CC List


Subject: Re: Stus-List Flying lead keel

 

My first problem with this canting design is that a typical keel performs
two functions; a counter-balance for the forces against the sail, and a
lifting foil to generate lift to windward to counteract leeway.  I only see
the counter-balance in this design.

 

My second problem with this design is the fact that as heel increases, the
effect of the keel weight gets less, unless you continuously adjust the cant
angle to keep it just above the water.

 

Am I missing something?  I'm not saying these are insurmountable problems,
but I don't see them addressed in Speed Dream.

 

Gary

 

On Sun, Nov 10, 2013 at 7:22 PM, Chuck S cscheaf...@comcast.net wrote:

Hey Dwight,
That's an amazing canting keel design.  Guess we have to wait and see if
such ideas will sell in the future?

Chuck
Resolute
1990 CC 34R
Atlantic City, NJ


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-- 
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Re: Stus-List Flying lead keel + New Wing sail for monohullsala AC72.

[Ron Casciato]

Chuck:

Good points. And the article in Yachting Monthly has great pictures and
diagrams of the whole design.and there is a way to reef, apparently,
but I haven't been able to get the article on line for sending to the group.
Maybe you will have a better search strategy

 

It's the October 2013  of Yachting Monthly published in the UK.

 

I picked this copy up at the Paris Airport last month...it was the only
magazine I saw in English so I grabbed it and then found the article.

 

I could scan the article to a PDF file and then attach the file to an email,
but I'm not sure that's legal

 

Best,

 

Ron

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck S
Sent: Sunday, November 10, 2013 10:27 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Flying lead keel + New Wing sail for monohullsala
AC72.

 

That soft wing sail is interesting.  A monohull won't exceed hullspeed, so
I'm not sure of the application?  Maybe they just want to test their ideas
regarding their strange mast?  How do you reduce sail or put the rig away?
Hmmm.

Chuck
Resolute
1990 CC 34R
Atlantic City, NJ

  _  

From: Ron Casciato rjcasci...@comcast.net
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Sunday, November 10, 2013 9:15:11 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Flying lead keel + New Wing sail for monohulls ala
AC72.

Gary: 

 

If I saw the video correctly, from the force images, etc., the surface areas
of the hull at speed are only about a quarter of the whole hull and on the
rear quarter where he has a big rudder on each side.  If the surface area of
the hull approximates a much smaller hull shape, like a dinghy, then the
rudder should be enough to hold leeway to a controllable amount.

 

It's the lift that our keels provide and I'm not sure he doesn't have some
step or other shape in the hull under the water that might do the same
thing.

 

I'm ready to fill out a APHRF handicap sheet and send it in just to shake it
up a bit.

 

So now check out the web site for Formula-marine.com and scroll down to
their Omer One Sail There is an article in the British journal of
Yachting Monthly , October 2013 issue that tests this Wing Sail  out on an
Elan 37. They have a short video with some dramatic views of this rig
set up.  Lots of good stuff going on out there..

http://www.formulamarine.com/projects-2/projects-carbon/omer-wing-sail   The
rest of their web sdite is also very interesting.

 

Best,

 

Ron C.

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary
Russell
Sent: Sunday, November 10, 2013 8:33 PM
To: CC List
Subject: Re: Stus-List Flying lead keel

 

Jake,

 Agreed.

Gary

 

On Sun, Nov 10, 2013 at 8:31 PM, Jake Brodersen captain_j...@cox.net
wrote:

Gary,

 

With this type of design, a centerboard or other type of structure would be
needed to avoid excessive leeway,

 

On you second point, I agree.  Stability will be vanishing as the bulb gets
higher above the water.  It could certainly make for some interesting
sailing.  Self righting might be an issue.

 

Jake

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary
Russell
Sent: Sunday, November 10, 2013 8:28 PM
To: CC List


Subject: Re: Stus-List Flying lead keel

 

My first problem with this canting design is that a typical keel performs
two functions; a counter-balance for the forces against the sail, and a
lifting foil to generate lift to windward to counteract leeway.  I only see
the counter-balance in this design.

 

My second problem with this design is the fact that as heel increases, the
effect of the keel weight gets less, unless you continuously adjust the cant
angle to keep it just above the water.

 

Am I missing something?  I'm not saying these are insurmountable problems,
but I don't see them addressed in Speed Dream.

 

Gary

 

On Sun, Nov 10, 2013 at 7:22 PM, Chuck S cscheaf...@comcast.net wrote:

Hey Dwight,
That's an amazing canting keel design.  Guess we have to wait and see if
such ideas will sell in the future?

Chuck
Resolute
1990 CC 34R
Atlantic City, NJ


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Re: Stus-List floorboards

[Ron Casciato]

Bill:

 

+++1 on the lining up the pattern.your eye notices the slightest
mismatch and remember that you will be looking down at it every time you
enter the boat.  

 

When we did the floors on my 38MKII last year, it took 2 4x8 panels and the
panels were matched as well end to end. 

 

My floor has several openings (keel sump, mast plate, opening in front of
the head door, and a small one about half way back from the keel opening.
These are mainly for getting to the keel bolts, but you should address the
raw edge of the plywood when you cut those openings.  We cut the openings
wider to accommodate a ¼’ teak strip, the same thickness of the floor and
epoxied that strip to the inside edges of the openings.  Mitered corners
make for a nice finish.

 

On the 38, the outside edges in the area of the stairway and the starboard
lockers up front have a tapered edge due to the hull shape sliding down into
the floor area.  That was a chore to carefully taper the back side of the
floor to match the slope of the hull.  

 

The end result was very nice and professional looking.I suppose that you
could cut flush sides at the edge of the slope but on my boat that would
narrow the floor and expose white fiberglass……….we decided not to do that so
we finished it as above.

 

TAKE YOUR TIME……….. Final suggestion,………. Finishing the top surface………Epoxy
the underside is a must………..the edges as well ……….we used a product from
Awlgrip which was a hard clear coat for the top surface over a sealer that
was sanded smooth.  It has to be sprayed, and hanging the panels upside down
prevents dust from settling on the finish………. Two or three coats of that
stuff produced a beautiful finish and it is harder than epoxy and varnish……I
never expect to have to finish or treat it again.  It also survives dropped
wrenches, etc. without denting the surface..

 

A great project…TAKE YOUR TIME and watch the temperature and humidity
for best results with epoxy or other finish.

 

Good Luck,

 

Ron C. 

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave
Godwin
Sent: Friday, November 08, 2013 6:48 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List floorboards

 

Bill, this is exactly how I did my floorboards years ago with help from a
buddy who worked in a boatbuilder’s woodshop. Unfortunately I will be doing
it again this winter…

 

++1 on lining up the pattern. Take your time.

 

Dave

1982 CC 37 - Ronin

 

On Nov 8, 2013, at 5:49 AM, Graham Collins cnclistforw...@hotmail.com
wrote:





Hi Bill
Rough cut the new material with an allowance of say 3/8 all around, then
using the original screw holes in the old floorboards screw the old boards
to the new and use a trimming bit in a router (straight bit with bearing of
the same diameter) to trim.  No clamps required, and you use the same screw
holes to install the new boards.

+1 on the suggestion to ensure you line up the holly carefully from panel to
panel, I did not do this and it bugs me... but not enough for a do-over!



Graham Collins
Secret Plans
CC 35-III #11

On 2013-11-07 10:26 PM, wwadjo...@aol.com wrote:

 

I am planning to remake floorboards this winter.  I have old ones for
pattern.  Would be interested in any tips, on or off list, that anyone has
for patterning, cutting, finishing.  Plan to epoxy all sides, then varnish.
Thinking of m making full size masonite patterns , attach with double sided
tape to new floor stock, then use straight cutting bit in router to cut.
Thoughts welcome.   

Bill Walker

36

Pentwater, Mi

Sent from my HTC

 

- Reply message -
From: sam.c.sal...@gmail.com
To:  mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Current CC History; now a Dose of reality 
Date: Thu, Nov 7, 2013 9:03 PM





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Re: Stus-List Anchoring floorboards - was Re: floorboards

[Ron Casciato]

We used these anchors on my new floorboards but they work great and
if you needed to get the floor up in a hurry.there's no alternative that
looks and works as well.  I'm installing the Floor Latch for the bilge cover
this spring.

 

http://www.pyiinc.com/articles/anchor-your-floor-boards 

 

Ron C.

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Steve
Thomas
Sent: Friday, November 08, 2013 8:05 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Anchoring floorboards - was Re: floorboards

 

Robertson head screws are much less likely to deform so that you can't
remove them, so long as you don't use an undersize screwdriver. You are less
likely to have to resort to some sort of alternate extraction device with
Robertson head screws. They are way better than Phillips or slot heads in
transferring torque from the screwdriver to the screw. In my opinion they
are better in all applications except for assembly line work, where speed of
assembly is the overriding concern, and where the engineers don't care if it
is later difficult to remove them. The only thing I would do is make sure
that they are stainless or bronze, and check them once in a while if you are
concerned that they will fill up with dirt. That is not something that is
likely to happen quickly. 

 

Virtually every screw used to fasten anything that is connected to the hull
of my boat has required re-tightening at some time. There must be a lot of
flexing going on that is not obvious when actually sailing the boat. 

 

Steve Thomas

1978 CC MKIII

 

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Re: Stus-List Current CC History; now a Dose of reality !!!!

[Ron Casciato]

To the group...

Just some thoughts to bring the conversation down to today's reality
check.. I would advance that most of the listers in this group who
own CC boats actually own boats older than 1990...Maybe a few in
the early 90's. virtually none of us own anything that competes with
new models of racer cruiser boats today.

I own one of the Bruckman CC's built in 1977.  It's a 38MKIIC and was built
as a custom boat for someone in Chicago to race in the Mac races.. I
have completely refinished her to better than new condition and we race her
weekly in the local PHRF series.

That makes her over 46 years old and I wouldn't give her up for any amount.
And yes, I would love to see those lines continued in to the future, it's a
great boat, but the reality is that you can't make a current business on
those older boat's designs I admire Will's courage and intent on
keeping the marque but really, not one of us is a potential customer of
the new boats of any brand in today's market at today's new boat
prices...Incidentally, most of us are too old to think about making that
kind of investment in a new 30' or 40' boat.  I'm sure that Will gets it, he
needs to create a boat that sells into today's active sailor market, and
that ain't many of us by comparison.  Today's cruising/ racing families are
choosing between newer designs and trying to compete with the J 105
which I can't even touch given my generous handicap.

We all purchased our boats at a different time and place in our
lives.those choices are still great ones, but given the disposable
income of many newer sailboat types, I applaud Will and his group for
giving it a try..

Sort of like the new Cris Craft power boats...they are still being
made, but not in the old style and function.  The market is smaller than it
was for either type of boat and a new venture needs to pick a segment that
contains enough potential customers so it can survive 

What each of us needs to do is sail for a day on one of the late model
Jeauneau's, Beneteau's or for the purist's out there a new
Sabre...priced one of them lately.

You would trade your old CC sailing characteristics and accommodations in a
minute if it weren't for the  price of that experience...  Folks without the
old time CC experience don't have the history to fall back on for
rationalization.

So my hat's off to Will and the New CC group..I like the new
designs, but I'm one of the old CC'ers..and I understand that I'm
not in your new target market.  

My very best Wishes..

Ron Casciato
IMPROMPTU
CC 38MKIIC, #125, '77 



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Will
Harris
Sent: Thursday, November 07, 2013 3:12 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Current CC History

Hi Group,

I thought maybe I'd chime in on this CC history thread.

Dunes and I both go way, way back with CC.  We grew up in and around 
Youngstown which is right across the river from Niagara-on-the-Lake.  
Our clubs are almost like one club, divided by a border.  We grew up 
racing and sailing with and against the Hinterhollers, Brimsmeads and 
all the CC guys.

My personal history actually pre-dates CC by a fair bit.  When we 
bought our Shark, George didn't have an office per se, you went and had 
dinner with the Hinterhoellers.  Our families used to meet up for a few 
days most summers cruising our Sharks in the Thousand Islands.  Richard 
and I were about the same age and Barbara and my sister were about the 
same age.  Gabrielle was practically a grown-up.. she was probably 12 
when I was 9...

Long story short, I knew George and his family and I'm pretty sure he 
would approve of the 30!  Two main reasons: First, it is really easy to 
forget just how radical the Shark was in the day.  Now, we're pretty 
used to 24 foot boats planing in 1962 that just did not 
happen...except for Sharks!

Second- George is also pretty famous for telling a client who wanted 
standing headroom in a 30 footer,  It is better to cut off your 
legs.   He was a no BS kinda guy.

I follow this list and it's pretty fun.  Sometimes I think that ya'll 
forget that the CCs that are now serving as great cruising boats we NOT 
cruising boats when they were new.  CC's bread and butter was 
performance boats.  They would go and win the SORC, They would build the 
Canadian Admiral's Cup team and the string of Canada's Cup boats they 
did were freaking amazing.  People would buy the production boats and go 
race them IOR, or in Ton classes.  They were hot boats!

Our Redline 41 is very true to the spirit of her ancestor.  I grew up 
racing on the mighty Pivot III, one of the original Redlines.  I still 
see her every week when I go Mumm30 sailing.  They Awlgripped her ( 
still red ) and removed the pulpits and lifelines. She looks awesome, 
kinda metre boatish, very, very classic

Re: Stus-List Current CC History; now a Dose of reality !!!!

[Ron Casciato]

John:

Thanks, I get it...but they don't have to sell thousands of
boats..(Average price will be in the $250K+ range, in my opinion.  They do
have to build a slick fast competitive boat that any potential J105 or  J109
buyer would change his mind for..

In my mind, this is a price to market issuehell, if I were to win
the lottery, the first call I'd make is to the new CC guys...and we'd
be off and running; new logo and all.

Best,

Ron



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
j...@svpaws.net
Sent: Thursday, November 07, 2013 7:44 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Current CC History; now a Dose of reality 

Well, I agree with the sentiment if not the content.

 Sabre...priced one of them lately.

Actually... Yes (although they are no longer making sailboats).  In fact I
sold a 386 to return to CC, albeit of the Tartan vintage.  I don't regret
the decision for a minute.  I believe there are several list lurkers that
might surprise you.

I very much liked the exterior of the redline 41 and were it not for my 121
which I am in love with I would likely be giving them a call.  The interior
needs to be reworked but I believe he mentioned other designs.  I wish them
well. Like many on this list I just think they are fighting an uphill battle
with the 30.  They may well prove me the idiot I am and end up selling
thousands of boats.  I hope they do.

If I had a choice, I would prefer to see a return to what Tartan did
originally with the 110/121 - a really good performance cruiser.  Of course,
if I was in the majority Tartan never would have sold the band.  As I
recall, the comment in 1999 was that the boat needed a CC logo on the
shower door to prove it was a CC.  Nope, not a lot of love from the Niagara
crowd.  

So yes, we probably all should be a bit more open minded.  In a few years,
we may well find a few generation next CC's on this list.

John




Sent from my iPad

 On Nov 7, 2013, at 7:22 PM, Ron Casciato rjcasci...@comcast.net wrote:
 
 To the group...
 
 Just some thoughts to bring the conversation down to today's reality
 check.. I would advance that most of the listers in this group who
 own CC boats actually own boats older than 1990...Maybe a few in
 the early 90's. virtually none of us own anything that competes
with
 new models of racer cruiser boats today.
 
 I own one of the Bruckman CC's built in 1977.  It's a 38MKIIC and was
built
 as a custom boat for someone in Chicago to race in the Mac races..
I
 have completely refinished her to better than new condition and we race
her
 weekly in the local PHRF series.
 
 That makes her over 46 years old and I wouldn't give her up for any
amount.
 And yes, I would love to see those lines continued in to the future, it's
a
 great boat, but the reality is that you can't make a current business on
 those older boat's designs I admire Will's courage and intent on
 keeping the marque but really, not one of us is a potential customer of
 the new boats of any brand in today's market at today's new boat
 prices...Incidentally, most of us are too old to think about making
that
 kind of investment in a new 30' or 40' boat.  I'm sure that Will gets it,
he
 needs to create a boat that sells into today's active sailor market, and
 that ain't many of us by comparison.  Today's cruising/ racing families
are
 choosing between newer designs and trying to compete with the J 105
 .which I can't even touch given my generous handicap.
 
 We all purchased our boats at a different time and place in our
 lives.those choices are still great ones, but given the
disposable
 income of many newer sailboat types, I applaud Will and his group for
 giving it a try..
 
 Sort of like the new Cris Craft power boats...they are still
being
 made, but not in the old style and function.  The market is smaller than
it
 was for either type of boat and a new venture needs to pick a segment that
 contains enough potential customers so it can survive 
 
 What each of us needs to do is sail for a day on one of the late model
 Jeauneau's, Beneteau's or for the purist's out there a new
 Sabre...priced one of them lately.
 

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Re: Stus-List Installing a garboard drain plug on 38MkII

[Ron Casciato]

Guys, We did this installation last year just like the pictures here
show however, we used a bolt to anchor one of the holes in the inside
flange and bonded the mast, etc. to it for safety reasons.

 

Years of tinkering with an auto bilge pump with separate battery and then
failing that, a once a week visit to use the car battery and long wires to
run the pump for a few seconds just got tired. d this and forget it,
don't forget to take the plug out though.

 

Ron C.

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt,
Mike
Sent: Wednesday, October 23, 2013 3:02 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Installing a garboard drain plug on 38MkII

 

Peter

 

There is no vertical drilling.  In all the pictures you have seen the hole
is drilled in the keel stub above the lead portion of the keel.

 

Garbord drains are common practice at the boat yard where we launch our
boats.  Most are the Perko ones you have shown in the Dan.Pfeiffer link.
The purpose in our boatyard is to prevent water buildup in the bilge but
there will still be some water there up to the leve of the bottom of the
drain hole.  

 

I used stainless screws but perhaps should have used bronze.  Also set in
Epoxy in one case and in 3M 5200 in the otehr and faired over using
thickened epoxy.  Some owners do not fair around the flange.  It is
basically no different than a thru hull.

 

Mike

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Petar
Horvatic
Sent: Wednesday, October 23, 2013 3:42 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Installing a garboard drain plug on 38MkII

When you say installed, you mean drilled.

 

So would you drill vertically down in the bildge, then horizontally from
outside so the two holes meet, then oversize the outside to accommodate the
plug housing?

Drain plug housing I am looking at has four retaining bolt holes.  Seems not
a good idea to put self tapping screws there, so that means you need to
through-bolt. And if that's so, how do you put washers and nuts on the
inside?  

 

Even if I didn't drill vertically down it seems that you can't encompass
lowest point in the bildge, have horizontal drain plug and through-bolt all
four retaining bolts.So What gives?

 

These pics are pretty good, but it looks like he just put self tapping
bronze screws.

http://dan.pfeiffer.net/10m/garboard_drain.htm

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel
Aronson
Sent: Wednesday, October 23, 2013 2:28 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Installing a garboard drain plug on 38MkII

 

mine with as installed from the outside.  Not smooth, but not a big deal.
Much lower than if it were installed from inside.

 

Joel

35/3

Annapolis

 

On Wed, Oct 23, 2013 at 2:16 PM, Petar Horvatic phorv...@gmail.com wrote:

Does anyone have pics or advice on how best to install a garboard drain
plug.

Shallow bildge and external lead keel make it pretty difficult to have
something that is flush on the outside yet encompass the lowest point in the
bildge to allow water to drain.

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 CC 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

 

 

 


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-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551 

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Re: Stus-List Advice for sailing shorthanded on CC 38 or 35

[Ron Casciato]

Jim:  I second the notes from James Taylor and his 38MKII.  I have a 1977
38MKIIC (the C means that it was built in the Bruckman Shop of CC) but I
agree that it is easily handled by two.  James mentioned raising the main a
potential problem and the first thing I did when I bought this boat in 1997
was to upgrade the mast with a Tides Marine strong track That's a
delrin/nylon insert that slides in the current sail track and has bronze
slugs that slide in the new track's inside out T slot.  The main goes up
and down very easily, it's all very slippery and ladies can certainly
handle it.  You might have to do the final two turns on the winch to get the
tension right, but that solves the main up and down problem. And it was
short money compared to other improvements you can make.

If you're not going to race, this boat loves a medium 135 Genoa and a full
main..we use a light 155 and the blade for racing in other conditions,
but I'd pick the 38MKII over and over againprobably one of the prettiest
boats on the water even today.

And of course, photos are always available if you want to compare. And
just to temper your expectations, we could always discuss things to look for
in and older boat..

Ron Casciato, Impromptu

CC 38MKIIC '77 #125

Mass Bay.

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of jtsails
Sent: Thursday, October 10, 2013 7:25 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Advice for sailing shorthanded on CC 38 or 35

 

Jim,

I grew up sailing on a CC 30 and 39, and I currently own a 1976 38 MkII. I
sail most of the time with my wife and two young daughters (so it's close to
single handing) and often take the boat out alone. The biggest challenge for
me is hoisting the main, it's a tall mast! But at least it is a short boom
and small main. I purchased a 125% jib this season and love it. One of the
nicest things about this boat is that it doesn't take a lot of power to
drive and the 125 does a great job in all but the lightest conditions. As an
example, this past weekend we upwind in 8 knots apparent with the gps
showing over 6. I would suggest having a good autopilot (I don't have one,
Yet!) and a stack pack or similar system for the main. Make sure the main
halyard is led aft with a good two speed ST winch (I recently added a
Barient 21ST). I like the Barient because the high speed is geared 1:1 which
is great for 95% of the hoist. All the new winches have the high speed
geared down to 2:1 and you have to crank twice the revolutions.

The boat is plenty stiff, I've had it out in 25+ with the old 155 (off the
wind) and always been comfortable and confident. She seems to sail better if
you keep her relatively flat, heeling beyond 20 degrees adds no speed, just
steering effort. 

Down below the boat works very well. With the family on board, I don't miss
the aft cabins of the newer boats at all.The wife and I use the V-berth and
the kids get the rest. We have done weekends with 7 people and day sailed
with as many as 12 and been very happy. The large ice box, being located
outboard away from the engine works well. We don't have refrigeration but
don't feel we need it for weekend cruising. A double sink would be nice, but
we don't cook in the galley very much. I did install an A/C system in the
forward hanging locker and that is a must have for us down here in the
Southeast. Lots of storage! Head is nicely sized, big enough to be usable
without wasting a lot of space.

As you can probably tell, we are very happy with our choice of boats. I did
a lot of shopping and tire kicking and had a pretty good idea of what I was
after. The 35MkIII was my first choice but I never found one that was in
good shape. Our boat was in great condition and we all fell in love with it
on first sight!

My best advice is to not get in a hurry and look at lots of boats. And if
you want a boat that you will keep for a long time, make sure that you buy
one that you can look back at and think that you have the best looking boat
in the area!

 

James Taylor

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Re: Stus-List 6 part mainsheet and also traveller location

[Ron Casciato]

Ken:  I have the same arrangement on my 38MKII, but I added a 4:1 lighter
system in the original line up to the becket of the 6:1 system.  You can
find this outline in Harken's catalogue in the mainsheet drawings.  My
system alleviates the rope clutches and winch and allows easy trim and
release since the final system is now 24:1.  I think I'm now at 3/8 line
for the fine trim arrangement an 7/16 for the mainsheet system.

 

Pics available if interested no additional deck hardware required

 

Best

 

Ron C.

Impromptu

CC 38MKIIC.. '77

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ken
Heaton
Sent: Thursday, October 03, 2013 12:13 PM
To: cnc-list
Subject: Re: Stus-List 6 part mainsheet and also traveller location

 

The system David described below is what we have been using for our
mainsheet.  Our traveller is in the cockpit on the bridgedeck behind the
companionway.  It is double ended with one end running to the rope clutches
and winch on the cabintop.  The other end goes to a 6:1 at the traveller.
It works for us.

 

The boat seems to have been built with a double ended system but with one
end terminating in a fine tune system like the one Michael Clow shows above,
except the fine tune blocks and line were hidden inside the boom.  It was
changed to the system we have now by a previous owner.

 

Ken H.

 

On 2 October 2013 21:58, David Knecht davidakne...@gmail.com wrote:

Update on my mainsheet rig.  I have altered the arrangement to something I
think is dramatically better.  I found that the 6:1 was not sufficient in
higher winds, which we have had alot of lately (not complaining). Not only
could I not sheet in tight enough, I could not release it from the load on
the cam.   I thought I could run the sheet to a coachtop winch to increase
power when needed, but the downward angle does not work as the sheet rides
up on the winch.  The solution was simple: a hybrid of the new triple and
the old system.   I re-rigged the old blocks so that I now have a double
ended arrangement.  I don't have the end stopped at the becket on the
triple.  I now have the line running 6:1 through the triple/cam on the
traveller, then forward along the boom to the block on the mast, down to the
deck and back to the clutch as it used to be.  In lighter winds, I use the
cam on the 6:1 triple block to control.  In heavier winds I use the clutch
end and run it to one of the winches on the coachroof.  Worked great last
weekend. The only problem is that the 50' mainsheet I bought is not really
long enough.  Dave

 

 

 

David Knecht

Aries

1990 CC 34+

New London, CT




 


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Re: Stus-List 6 part mainsheet and also traveller location

[Ron Casciato]

Dave:

You are correct, my system does mount on the seat across the cockpit
immediately behind the companionway.  It is my understanding that that seat
is the bridgedeck spanning the seats from side to side...I may be
incorrect, however. 

 

I was responding to Ken's note that his traveller was mounted on the
bridgedeck behind the companionway..see his note below.

 

I also agree that the system would be difficult to install if the traveler
is mounted on the cabin roof.  

 

Sorry for any confusion ,

 

Ron C.

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David
Knecht
Sent: Friday, October 04, 2013 9:54 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 6 part mainsheet and also traveller location

 

Hi Ron- I suspect you have a cockpit traveller.  I don't think it is
possible to use the kind of system you are describing with a bridgedeck
traveller due to insufficient room between the boom and the traveller.  If I
am wrong, I would love to see pictures of how it is done.  Dave

 

On Oct 4, 2013, at 9:12 AM, Ron Casciato rjcasci...@comcast.net wrote:





Ken:  I have the same arrangement on my 38MKII, but I added a 4:1 lighter
system in the original line up to the becket of the 6:1 system.  You can
find this outline in Harken's catalogue in the mainsheet drawings.  My
system alleviates the rope clutches and winch and allows easy trim and
release since the final system is now 24:1.  I think I'm now at 3/8 line
for the fine trim arrangement an 7/16 for the mainsheet system.

 

Pics available if interested no additional deck hardware required

 

Best

 

Ron C.

Impromptu

CC 38MKIIC.. '77

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ken
Heaton
Sent: Thursday, October 03, 2013 12:13 PM
To: cnc-list
Subject: Re: Stus-List 6 part mainsheet and also traveller location

 

The system David described below is what we have been using for our
mainsheet.  Our traveller is in the cockpit on the bridgedeck behind the
companionway.  It is double ended with one end running to the rope clutches
and winch on the cabintop.  The other end goes to a 6:1 at the traveller.
It works for us.

 

The boat seems to have been built with a double ended system but with one
end terminating in a fine tune system like the one Michael Clow shows above,
except the fine tune blocks and line were hidden inside the boom.  It was
changed to the system we have now by a previous owner.

 

Ken H.

 

On 2 October 2013 21:58, David Knecht davidakne...@gmail.com wrote:

Update on my mainsheet rig.  I have altered the arrangement to something I
think is dramatically better.  I found that the 6:1 was not sufficient in
higher winds, which we have had alot of lately (not complaining). Not only
could I not sheet in tight enough, I could not release it from the load on
the cam.   I thought I could run the sheet to a coachtop winch to increase
power when needed, but the downward angle does not work as the sheet rides
up on the winch.  The solution was simple: a hybrid of the new triple and
the old system.   I re-rigged the old blocks so that I now have a double
ended arrangement.  I don't have the end stopped at the becket on the
triple.  I now have the line running 6:1 through the triple/cam on the
traveller, then forward along the boom to the block on the mast, down to the
deck and back to the clutch as it used to be.  In lighter winds, I use the
cam on the 6:1 triple block to control.  In heavier winds I use the clutch
end and run it to one of the winches on the coachroof.  Worked great last
weekend. The only problem is that the 50' mainsheet I bought is not really
long enough.  Dave

 

 

 

David Knecht

Aries

1990 CC 34+

New London, CT


image002.jpg

 


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CnC-List@cnc-list.com

 

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David Knecht, Ph.D.

Professor and Head of Microscopy Facility

Department of Molecular and Cell Biology

U-3125

91 N. Eagleville Rd.

University of Connecticut

Storrs, CT 06269

860-486-2200

860-486-4331 (fax)









 

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Re: Stus-List 6 part mainsheet and also traveller location

[Ron Casciato]

On Impromptu, '77CC 38MKIIC, Original Traveller on the bridge deck just
outside of the companionway..no problems with dodger attachment: Added a
separate boom bail just aft of the dodger edge.slight aft pull on the
traveller car but no ill effects after over 10 yearswe don't use the
dodger when racing so we switch to the bail above the car then.

 

All Garhauer parts, even replaced the original Schaefer traveller with
Garhauer Traveller with holes matched by Guido so no additional drilling
required.  Had the Garhauer car made with the traveller controls mounted on
the car with cam cleatsthat works fine, but for racing, we now like
the traveller controls led to the side and up to a cam cleat on each side.
That keeps the main trimmer out of the cockpit and on the high side for
traveller adjustment.  

 

For cruising, the traveller can be led to the side and back to the helm
through another cam cleat for helm adjustment.  That also works fine.

 

6:1 blocks were coupled with a 4:1 fine trimming set (see the Harken
drawings in their catalogue for such a system).  The end result is a great
24:1 main sheet system that provides all the effort you'll ever need.

 

Pictures available on request.

 

Ron C.

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Michael
Clow
Sent: Tuesday, September 10, 2013 9:29 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 6 part mainsheet and also traveller location

 

I have the same arrangement on my CC 32 and highly recommend it.  The
biggest reason was so when short handed the driver can have access to the
main sheet.  The other big reason is the responsiveness, especially on
jibes.  Late last season we added a main sheet fine tuning block setup.  The
classic arrangement is to put it between the two big main sheet 6 to 1
blocks BUT this did not work because there was not enough vertical distance
between them.  So we were able to put the fine tuner horizontally on the
boom.  I will take a picture this evening and post to the web and send along
a link. 

 

Michael Clow

Desire http://desiresailing.org/ , CC 32, Lake St. Clair

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David
Knecht
Sent: Monday, September 09, 2013 9:56 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 6 part mainsheet and also traveller location

 

I had a traveller forward of the companionway on my previous 34 and now my
newer 34+.  On the 34, I added a triple block with becket and cam (Lewmar)
on the traveller so I had 6:1 up and down to the boom.  It worked much more
smoothly than going around all the corners of the stock arrangement.  I run
the mainsheet back to the helm and when shorthanded and can adjust the main
easily without going forward to a winch unless it was blowing pretty hard.
I also added a Garhauer vang and instead of the traveller, I used the vang
(vang sheeting) so that the main sheet controlled the boom in and out and
the vang up and down. Far easier when shorthanded than going up to the
coachroof to make adjustments.  

 

Last week, I finally put together the same thing on my newer 34+.  I used a
Garhauer triple block (becket cam) which was about half the price of Harken
or Lewmar and far beefier in construction.  The main seems to be
significantly larger than my 34 because it is significantly harder to adjust
by hand when blowing, but I can run it to a winch on the coach roof when it
blows and the downward angle bypasses the cam.  So I would say that for any
boat up to about 34', the 6:1 works great.  I would think harder about it
above 34.  Dave

 

On Sep 9, 2013, at 12:02 PM, Marek Dziedzic dziedzi...@hotmail.com wrote:

 

On my old CC 24 I had the traveller aft of the companion way (almost a foot
aft). It was great for handling the main (I also had a good Harken traveller
car there), but it was a major pain for anyone going inside. My admiral
hated it. To the point that the hard requirement for the new(er) boat was
that it had the traveller on the cabin top.

 

Now we have an easy access below, but the sail trimming is more complicated.

 

Marek 

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David Knecht

Aries

1990 CC 34+

New London, CT




 

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Re: Stus-List Replacing the Overhead Panels on a 37+

[Ron Casciato]

Edd:

 

I just saw something used for outdoor signsa honey combed very light
white plastic board.  Sold in 4 x 8' sheets for about $25 at a sign supply
shop...

 

Ron C.

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick
G Street
Sent: Monday, August 05, 2013 4:34 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Replacing the Overhead Panels on a 37+

 

Edd -- how about 1/4 white Plexiglas (acrylic)?


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

 

On Aug 5, 2013, at 1:19 PM, Edd Schillay e...@schillay.com wrote:





Listers,

 

I've purchased a bunch of lights (LED under-kitchen-cabinet
ones) to be mounted in those overhead panels much like Ken Heaton has on his
boat. But, I'd prefer to go with something white instead of the teak-like
ones that Ken has. Does anyone have a good suggestion on what kind of
material would be best? I want something lightweight so it can stay up with
velcro, but not too flimsy so I can mount these lights in them. 

 

1/4 star board? Any other suggestions?

 

Also, I know Ken already sent around a photo of the aft cabin
during our whose-boat-design-is-better chest-thumping email chain, but I had
to include a photo of mine too, with, of course, a custom blanket :-)
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15162917/Personal/blanket.jpg 

 

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Re: Stus-List soft shackles

[Ron Casciato]

Jimmy:  do you have a web site for nonots?  Can't Google them with any
useful results. thanks, Ron C.

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jimmy
Kelly
Sent: Monday, July 29, 2013 6:38 PM
To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List soft shackles

 

they work great   also european product called  NO KNOTS  or nonots
work even better are plastic sun resistantline goes thru fitting  then
sail fitting  then a tuckgreat for easy quick tie untie of sails when
racing  secure  ..no shroud hangups  ...been using same pair for more than
10 years  no problems at all  ..probably best to look for in your favorite
european chandlery...we use soft shackles on nylon sails also work well

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Re: Stus-List New genoa sheets soft shackles

[Ron Casciato]

Ron:

 

Here’s a place to start with the soft shackle subject.. it’s not hard to
make yourself and several shops are making them to order or stocking them in
several sizes…….

 

I’m a big proponent of using them for Genoa sheets instead of steel shackles
or bowline knots………..

 

Best,

 

Ron C.

 

http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://l-36.com/image/vel.jpg
http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://l-36.com/image/vel.jpgimgrefurl
=http://l-36.com/soft_shackle_intro.phph=320w=425sz=57tbnid=qR3C2ymaVw8U
UM:tbnh=95tbnw=126prev=/search%3Fq%3Dsoft%2Bshackles%26tbm%3Disch%26tbo%3
Duzoom=1q=soft+shacklesusg=__oX4jYcA3dkj7zAsym4BGKfYF5tQ=docid=_BbTeECTi
XLnjMsa=Xei=iSX3UcOGJa7H4APwlICICAsqi=2ved=0CFAQ9QEwAQdur=325
imgrefurl=http://l-36.com/soft_shackle_intro.phph=320w=425sz=57tbnid=qR
3C2ymaVw8UUM:tbnh=95tbnw=126prev=/search%3Fq%3Dsoft%2Bshackles%26tbm%3Dis
ch%26tbo%3Duzoom=1q=soft+shacklesusg=__oX4jYcA3dkj7zAsym4BGKfYF5tQ=docid
=_BbTeECTiXLnjMsa=Xei=iSX3UcOGJa7H4APwlICICAsqi=2ved=0CFAQ9QEwAQdur=325


 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ronald B.
Frerker
Sent: Monday, July 29, 2013 9:55 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List New genoa sheets soft shackles

 

Dennis, 

Please send the pix to me.  I haven't been able to envision what these soft
shackles look like or how they work.

Ron

Wild Cheri

STL

rbfrer...@yahoo.com

 

 

  _  

From: Dennis C. capt...@yahoo.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Saturday, July 27, 2013 5:39 PM
Subject: Stus-List New genoa sheets soft shackles


Just installed the new genoa sheets with soft shackles. Haven't gone out to
try them but they HAVE to work better than bowline knots. They are smooth. I
think they will slide across the forward lower shrouds without hanging up. 

I took pics if anyone is interested. 

Dennis C.
Touché 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List New genoa sheets soft shackles

[Ron Casciato]

I've been using a soft shackle for over a year for racing and just love
it..for pictures and a tutorial on how to make one, just Google soft
shackle.I think Amsteel does a great video step by step;...

Ron C.

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Neil
Gallagher
Sent: Saturday, July 27, 2013 8:23 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List New genoa sheets soft shackles

Dennis:

I'm interested in pictures, I'm dealing with that very issue.

Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY


On 7/27/2013 6:39 PM, Dennis C. wrote:
 Just installed the new genoa sheets with soft shackles. Haven't gone out
to try them but they HAVE to work better than bowline knots. They are
smooth. I think they will slide across the forward lower shrouds without
hanging up.

 I took pics if anyone is interested.

 Dennis C.
 Touché 35-1 #83
 Mandeville, LA

 Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List New Halyards for teh 38MKII

[Ron Casciato]

 

Group:

 

I am considering replacing my 7/16 low stretch (NER) halyards for both
main and Jib with something that is no stretch..

 

We raced last Wednesday in 22-25kts and both the Main and Jib stretched so
as to make the jib trim really edgy.  The Cunningham made up the difference
in the main, but we finally broke the jib shackle and had to route a spare
in a hurry..

 

We recovered OK, but I think better halyards are in order. 

 

The big problem is the sticker shock for Dyneema or similar material
two halyards using Dyneema SK90 estimated cost is near $1000.  

 

Has anyone faced this issue and how did you resolve it.  Anyone have any
suggestions on reasonable priced high tech line?

 

Thanks,  Ron C.

Impromptu

CC 38MKIIC ..'77

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Re: Stus-List Best CC's of all time

[Ron Casciato]

I know we'd all vote for our own boat... but the 38-40's models had, for
me, the most attractive lines and proportions of he whole fleet I sail
one of the 38MKII's built in Bruckman's yard #125.get more complements
on that boat still after 36 years . Majestic Blue (recent)..original deck
color..Stearns tapered mast/boom (same color as the deck) all make it just
right

 

Ron C.

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary
Russell
Sent: Wednesday, July 10, 2013 6:25 AM
To: CC List
Subject: Re: Stus-List Best CC's of all time

 

Rob Ball's favorite was the 35 MK  III.  Personally, I like the 35 Mk II
because I own one and she is a sweet sailor and much better looking than the
newer boats (IMHO).  I've sailed on a CC 121 (flame retardant suit on) and
she is a rocket ship.  Very nice!

 

Gary

 

On Wed, Jul 10, 2013 at 12:27 AM, Russ  Melody russ...@telus.net wrote:

Hi Dennis,

I think Andrew said it best. The 35 mk-1 was the boat that really built the
company... and still has the best sheer. IMHO 

She feels like a much bigger boat than she is, when sailing.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1




From: Andrew Burton a.burton.sai...@gmail.com
To: robertlma...@gmail.com ...snip... list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com


Subject: Re: Stus-List Cruising World's 40 best sailboats

The 35 mark 1, just because she was and is such a beauty and still had a
good layout and sailed really well.
The 27 Mk 1 but then I'm prejudiced, having spent many many happy hours
cruising with my old dad on his.
I'd put the 39 on there, even though she had more of a racing layout; what a
joy to sail and look at that boat!
The 30 mk1, because of its longevity...and similarity to the 27
I think the 35 Mk 3 should be on there, too, not that I have any experience
with the boat, beyond looking at them during the search that resulted in
acquiring Peregrine.
Andy



Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA02840



At 07:32 PM 09/07/2013, you wrote:

OK.  Subject change.  New Thread.

Discussion starts.NOW!

Dennis C.

 

From: robertlma...@gmail.com robertlma...@gmail.com

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Sent: Tuesday, July 9, 2013 9:13 PM

Subject: Re: Stus-List Cruising World's 40 best sailboats

 

What I personally would find interesting is what this esteemed group thinks
are the top ten CCs of all time? The reason for your choice would also be
of interest. 

Rob 


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-- 
~~~_/)~~

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Re: Stus-List CDI furling drifter on a CC30-1 with Furlex furler

[Ron Casciato]

Guys:

 

I loked at the Karver systemlast year.

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck S
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 5:06 PM
To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list
Subject: Re: Stus-List CDI furling drifter on a CC30-1 with Furlex furler

 

Nobody cares but I like the new top down furlers and Selden sprits, and I'd
anchor the tack line to a U-bolt thru the bow.  Someday.

Chuck
Resolute
1990 CC 34R
Atlantic City, NJ

  _  

From: David Knecht davidakne...@gmail.com
To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 2:08:49 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List CDI furling drifter on a CC30-1 with Furlex furler

I have been considering this upgrade as well.  I am thinking about a
removable bowsprit for mounting the furler.  

 

http://www.newjsi.com/bowsprits.aspx

 

 

David Knecht

Aries

1990 CC 34+

New London, CT






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Re: Stus-List CDI furling drifter on a CC30-1 with Furlex furler

[Ron Casciato]

Guys, 

I looked at this option last year for my 38MKIICI was going to use the
Karver System, (Google them for a video of the set up on a J 105.  That
video demonstrates the very large loads on the pole and fitting and my
sailmaker says that you really have to consider moving the lower furler away
and forward from the genoa furler.  

 

Selden makes a cruising sprit kit for a couple of lengths, but that's the
easy part.even if you're OK with the load...the real issue is at the top
end.without a mast head crane to move the new upper swivel of the furler
away and forward from the mast head..you risk tangling both swivels
together and since the new one is on a rigid rope (not really but flexible
to an extent).  A friend tried the system on his J35 with pole installed and
he's had to reengineer it a couple of times.

 

Sailmakers like them because if you do it right and extend the tack at the
bow..you are effectively increasing the foot dimension of the spinnaker
which allows for a lot of additional sail area, therefore making the sail
making business better.

 

I canned the idea because of the extra loads and not wanting to do masthead
work that would increase the weight aloft

 

You'll see them on the America Cup's boats both the 45's and the
72's...and they do look cool in operation..BUT...

 

Good luck

 

Ron Casciato

Impromptu

CC 38MKIIC...'77

 

 

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck S
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 5:06 PM
To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list
Subject: Re: Stus-List CDI furling drifter on a CC30-1 with Furlex furler

 

Nobody cares but I like the new top down furlers and Selden sprits, and I'd
anchor the tack line to a U-bolt thru the bow.  Someday.

Chuck
Resolute
1990 CC 34R
Atlantic City, NJ

  _  

From: David Knecht davidakne...@gmail.com
To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 2:08:49 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List CDI furling drifter on a CC30-1 with Furlex furler

I have been considering this upgrade as well.  I am thinking about a
removable bowsprit for mounting the furler.  

 

http://www.newjsi.com/bowsprits.aspx

 

 

David Knecht

Aries

1990 CC 34+

New London, CT






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Re: Stus-List Does anyone know the HIN break between the 38 mk1 and 38mk2?

[Ron Casciato]

HI Rick:

 

Impromptu has a hull number of 125, and according to my papers, she is a
MKII.to make matters worse, #125 was built in the Bruckman Custom shop
for an owner in Chicago to race in the Mac races.  The designation on the
listing when I bought the boat called her a MKIIC...there's one more MKIIC
somewhere and was named Blue Max but I never see anything about it.

 

Rob Maclachan from South Shore told me back when I bought my build file that
the MK I and MKII switch was somewhere in the #90's.  Don't know how
reliable that is

 

Good topic for discussion, however.

 

Ron 

Impromptu

CC 38MKIIC..'77 September, I think.

 

Is a 38 named Program in that scratch sheet?  Impromptu was buit as Program,
thgen named Gannett in 1980, then Blue Chip, in 1983 and then Impromptu in
1997,

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Brass
Sent: Sunday, April 07, 2013 5:18 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Does anyone know the HIN break between the 38 mk1 and
38mk2?

 

I need some help in answering an inquiry from the handicapper of NCPHRF,
based on the data I submitted in my recent PHRF application.

 

Imzadi is a 38, HIN 047, with a build date of 01/76. I presume she is what
we'd call a Mk1. Someone on the list has a boat with a HIN in the high 80's,
and describes his boat as a Mk2.

 

In submitting my most recent PHRF application, I used the tech specs from
the photo album. The handicapper has asked for some clarification, because
the PHRF base rating data shows the specs of the Mk1 and Mk2 to be the same
and that there is a common base rating of 117 for both models.. A review of
the available specs and brochures show that most of the data is common, but
the data for beam varies over a range of 11'4 to 12'3.

 

In my application for my Mk1, I used 11'4 for beam. That's the number in
the tech specs for the Mk1 on the photo album. I also acquired two IOR
rating certificates for my boat among the ship's papers aboard when I bought
her. Both the 2/76 and 2/82 IOR ratings specify a beam of 11'6, which is
consistent. (The IOR certificates also list the waterline beam to be 10'5,
and that is pretty reasonable considering that the 38 has a pronounced
tumblehome, with the widest part of the hull about 12 to 18 above the
waterline.) An article from the November 1975 issue of Yacht Racing magazine
describes the 38 as a One Tonner with a comfortable interior and describes
how a 38 was optimized for the 1975 One Ton Worlds. The article lists the
beam as 11'6.

 

Now the  brochures on the Photo Album, and a price list/spec sheet among my
ship's papers that is dated 9/13/1976, show the beam of a 38 to be 12'0''.
That is what is in the data for the PHRF base ratings of both the Mk1 and
Mk2.

 

I also looked at the Photo Album brochures for the early Landfall 38 - the
version with the fixed aluminum portlights rather than the glued in
portlights. The brochures say the hull is the same as the racing 38 and
most of the dimensions correspond  - except the beam of the Landfall is
listed as 12'3. Now that is consistent with what is shown on the original
Carpenter's Certificate that was in the build file for my boat.

 

I recall learning someplace that CC changed a few bulges and bumps between
the hulls of the Mk1 and Mk2 to take advantage of the IOR rules. So it is
possible that the beam of the Mk1 was 11'6, and of the Mk2 at 12'0. I
might discount the measurement shown on my Carpenter's Certificate; a
Landfall might be 12'3 and that model was about to go into production soon
after my boat was built, so the statistic could be in error.

 

Now my question is not intended to challenge the rating I'll get from
NCPHRF. It is more of the nature or trying to determine if I have a Mk1 or
Mk2, and trying to reconcile the inconsistent information.

 

Does anyone know the break point (HIN and/or build date) between a 38 mk1
and 38 mk2?

 

If you have a 38 or LF38, what is your HIN and build date? And what do you
think the beam of your boat to be?

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

PS. Some of you who are Great Lakes racers may be interested in some
information also in my Ship's Papers. I have a scratch sheet for the 1978
Labatt's 100 race that my boat was in. Among the 21 boats in the two IOR
divisions there were 13 CC's ranging from 30 to 38 feet. (1-30, 6-33, 1-35,
1-36, 4-38) I'm impressed that 2/3 of the boats racing were CCs. Speaks
pretty highly of the heritage of our boats.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jim Watts
Sent: Saturday, April 06, 2013 10:00 AM
To: 1 CnC List
Subject: Re: Stus-List Advise on a dinghy repair

 

I'm not there, so I can't see it, but most plastic dinghies are made from
rotomolded polyethylene or polypropylene. Walker Bay boats are made from
UV-stable polypropylene. ABS is a very unlikely material. You can test it to
see by dripping pure methylene chloride on the dinghy. If it is one of the

Re: Stus-List Does anyone know the HIN break between the 38 mk1 and 38mk2?

[Ron Casciato]

Rick: Impromptu's beam is 12'2.  Ron

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Brass
Sent: Sunday, April 07, 2013 5:18 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Does anyone know the HIN break between the 38 mk1 and
38mk2?

 

I need some help in answering an inquiry from the handicapper of NCPHRF,
based on the data I submitted in my recent PHRF application.

 

Imzadi is a 38, HIN 047, with a build date of 01/76. I presume she is what
we'd call a Mk1. Someone on the list has a boat with a HIN in the high 80's,
and describes his boat as a Mk2.

 

In submitting my most recent PHRF application, I used the tech specs from
the photo album. The handicapper has asked for some clarification, because
the PHRF base rating data shows the specs of the Mk1 and Mk2 to be the same
and that there is a common base rating of 117 for both models.. A review of
the available specs and brochures show that most of the data is common, but
the data for beam varies over a range of 11'4 to 12'3.

 

In my application for my Mk1, I used 11'4 for beam. That's the number in
the tech specs for the Mk1 on the photo album. I also acquired two IOR
rating certificates for my boat among the ship's papers aboard when I bought
her. Both the 2/76 and 2/82 IOR ratings specify a beam of 11'6, which is
consistent. (The IOR certificates also list the waterline beam to be 10'5,
and that is pretty reasonable considering that the 38 has a pronounced
tumblehome, with the widest part of the hull about 12 to 18 above the
waterline.) An article from the November 1975 issue of Yacht Racing magazine
describes the 38 as a One Tonner with a comfortable interior and describes
how a 38 was optimized for the 1975 One Ton Worlds. The article lists the
beam as 11'6.

 

Now the  brochures on the Photo Album, and a price list/spec sheet among my
ship's papers that is dated 9/13/1976, show the beam of a 38 to be 12'0''.
That is what is in the data for the PHRF base ratings of both the Mk1 and
Mk2.

 

I also looked at the Photo Album brochures for the early Landfall 38 - the
version with the fixed aluminum portlights rather than the glued in
portlights. The brochures say the hull is the same as the racing 38 and
most of the dimensions correspond  - except the beam of the Landfall is
listed as 12'3. Now that is consistent with what is shown on the original
Carpenter's Certificate that was in the build file for my boat.

 

I recall learning someplace that CC changed a few bulges and bumps between
the hulls of the Mk1 and Mk2 to take advantage of the IOR rules. So it is
possible that the beam of the Mk1 was 11'6, and of the Mk2 at 12'0. I
might discount the measurement shown on my Carpenter's Certificate; a
Landfall might be 12'3 and that model was about to go into production soon
after my boat was built, so the statistic could be in error.

 

Now my question is not intended to challenge the rating I'll get from
NCPHRF. It is more of the nature or trying to determine if I have a Mk1 or
Mk2, and trying to reconcile the inconsistent information.

 

Does anyone know the break point (HIN and/or build date) between a 38 mk1
and 38 mk2?

 

If you have a 38 or LF38, what is your HIN and build date? And what do you
think the beam of your boat to be?

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

PS. Some of you who are Great Lakes racers may be interested in some
information also in my Ship's Papers. I have a scratch sheet for the 1978
Labatt's 100 race that my boat was in. Among the 21 boats in the two IOR
divisions there were 13 CC's ranging from 30 to 38 feet. (1-30, 6-33, 1-35,
1-36, 4-38) I'm impressed that 2/3 of the boats racing were CCs. Speaks
pretty highly of the heritage of our boats.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jim Watts
Sent: Saturday, April 06, 2013 10:00 AM
To: 1 CnC List
Subject: Re: Stus-List Advise on a dinghy repair

 

I'm not there, so I can't see it, but most plastic dinghies are made from
rotomolded polyethylene or polypropylene. Walker Bay boats are made from
UV-stable polypropylene. ABS is a very unlikely material. You can test it to
see by dripping pure methylene chloride on the dinghy. If it is one of the
poly materials it will evaporate without leaving a mark. If it is ABS it
will etch the material and make it briefly sticky. ABS is glueable using a
solvent-based chemical, or if prepared right, with epoxy. If it is ABS I
would use a methacrylate adhesive for maximum strength (Plexus is one brand;
small amounts are available as Devcon Plastic Welder). 
Polyethylene and polypropylene are generally considered non-glueable since
nothing sticks to them. The most promising route to home repair would be
with WEST System G-Flex, combined with corona treatment. See their
literature for the full story. I give that approach about a 10% chance of
working.
Any decent plastics shop should be able to heat-weld a repair if you can get
the dinghy to them. Done right, that will 

Re: Stus-List Engine Control Panels NOw Deisel fuel comparisons................

[Ron Casciato]

All, I sat through a workshop form the Yanmar guru on diesel engines some
time ago in Newport RI.  He claimed that the truck stop diesel had a
higher Cetane rating than the then marine diesel and recommended that we use
the Trucker's fuel  It was more rigorously regulated than marine diesel at
the timeboth were supposed to catch up at some point, but I still  go to
the local truck stop for my diesel...it's significantly cheaper as well

 

Ron C.

CC 38MKIIC..'77 repowered with Yanmar Ygm30 Sail dirve

Impromptu

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Martin
DeYoung
Sent: Monday, March 11, 2013 2:27 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Engine Control Panels

 

*  cheaper because it is not subject to the fuel tax - hence the red
dye. 

 

Back in the mid 90's I delivered a Bendytoy 42 to San Diego.  The wind was
light from Cape Flattery to Crescent City California.  We stopped in
Crescent City to re-fuel.  The fuel dock only had un-taxed (red dye) fuel
and at that time the St. of Calif. required you to have a commercial boat to
use dyed/un-taxed fuel.

 

We had to flip a $20 to a local fisherman to drive several round trips to a
gas station that sold diesel.  We filled the boat's fuel tank and the spare
jerry cans with enough fuel to make it half way to San Diego if the wind
stayed light.  Fortunately the wind soon returned to West Coast, late summer
normal and we had a good sail for much of that leg arriving at San Diego
with several hours of fuel left.

 

Martin

Calypso

1970 CC 43

Seattle

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel
Aronson
Sent: Monday, March 11, 2013 10:48 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Engine Control Panels

 

Marine diesel should be cheaper because it is not subject to the fuel tax -
hence the red dye.  Of course, the word Marine has its own tax.  

 

 

Joel

35/3

Annapolis 

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Re: Stus-List LF 38 Pictures

[Ron Casciato]

HI Stu:  Are you interested in only the LF 38?  I have one of the 38MKIIC's
that looks great as wellthis one was built in Bruckman's shop for a guy
to race in the Mac races in Chicago in 1977

 

Best,

 

Ron Casciato

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stu
Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2013 6:41 PM
To: CC Email List
Subject: Stus-List LF 38 Pictures

 

Thanx for all the LF38 pictures.  They have been forwarded on and hopefully
some will make the magazine.

 

Stu

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Re: Stus-List Outhaul

[Ron Casciato]

Joel:  Consensus seems to favor routing the line back to the cockpit and I
would certainly agreeYou didn't mention the size of your boat, so I'm
not sure my system would be effective.  My 38MKIIC boom has the outhaul line
exiting the underside of the boom near the mast and is routed down to a
block at the mast partner and then through a deck organizer to the
stopper.one advantage of that is that you can use the winch located on
the cabin top to do adjustments when the load is too great for hand hauling.


 

However, the line that exits the mast is run into my boom through a 4
purchase set of blocks ...one double block up front and a second double one
further aft.  That aft block has a becket that had the wire portion back
to exit out of the aft end of the boom for the outhaul shackle.

 

I found that after 10 years of this arrangement, the boom kept getting
chewed up by the shackle when the outhaul was adjustedso this year, I
replaced that portion of the outhaul with a 6-7' section of Amsteel gray
3/8 West marine for short money for a spectra like line..that line now
exits the aft end of the boom and is tied directly to the main clew.  

 

The system works very smoothly and the Amsteel line has more strength than
the original wire/rope configuration.

 

Good luck with your conversion,

 

Ron C.

Impromptu

CC 38MKIIC'77

Mass Bay 

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C.
Sent: Saturday, December 29, 2012 3:23 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Outhaul

 

Sounds like you're close.  Mine is external to the boom but runs to a block
on a padeye on the aft side of the mast then to a stand up block on the deck
then to a Spinlock PowerCleat by the companionway.  Functionally the same
set up as you describe.

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 


  _  


From: Joel Aronson joel.aron...@gmail.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Saturday, December 29, 2012 12:25 PM
Subject: Stus-List Outhaul

 

While my teak is bleaching in the garage, I need some advice on my outhaul.

 

It currently runs to the front of the boom through 2 sheaves back into the
boom and exits the bottom of the boom between the vang and mainsheet where
there is a cam cleat.  When I replace my clutches I could run it to the base
of the mast, through the new line organizer to the clutch.  

 

It is the original wire and rope line.  I plan to replace it with 3/8
StaySet. 

 

Suggestions?


 

-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551 


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Re: Stus-List Cutting my keel

[Ron Casciato]

Hello Joe:

A friend of mine had this done to his Catalina 36 aboaut 5 years
ago.he needed a shallow draft for the Charlotte Harbor in Florida
where he moved prior to this project.

He used the Brewer's yard in Marion, MA and while I didn't watch the
process, the result has been very satisfactoryhe's tough to beat in
his class down there.

I'd contact Brewer's and get their take on this modification.  I do remember
that he offered that it was more expensive than he had originally
budgeted...I suspect it came in around 8-10K.  

I might also look for a deeper mooring spot...

Good luck,

Ron Casciato
Impromptu
CC 38MKIIC'77
Mass Bay

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joseph
Valle
Sent: Wednesday, November 21, 2012 4:47 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cutting my keel

I own a CC 29' Mark II. I am contemplating cutting my keel about 14 inches
to accommodate a shallow mooring spot. Mars Metal from Canada makes a keel
bulb that will bolt to the remaining keel to make up for weight and righting
moment. Has anyone had experience with this?

Joseph R. Valle
Chairman  C.E.O.
The Valle Group, Inc.
70 East Falmouth Highway, Suite 3
East Falmouth, MA 02536
Phone 508-548-1450
Cell 508-566-3441
joseph.va...@vallegroup.com
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
Persuasion
Sent: Wednesday, November 21, 2012 4:38 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Fw: Photos needed

Anybody with a 37 would know.  For that matter anybody with a 35 would know 
also.


Mike
S/V Persuasion
CC 37 K/CB
Stormont Yacht Club
http://www.stormontyachtclub.ca/

-Original Message- 
From: Pete Shelquist
Sent: Monday, November 19, 2012 9:51 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Photos needed

I have a nice shot of a 37 I'll send in.  It's a better looking boat than
what's listed and they won't know the difference.


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stu
Sent: Monday, November 19, 2012 7:42 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Photos needed

Folks, I do not know what version 35 they want -- they probably don't know
either.

If you are sending me a photo:
a) send it to s...@cncphotoalbum.com
b) images should be high-res, jpeg format and not thumbnail size.

I'll send them what I get.

Stu


-Original Message-
From: Graham Collins
Sent: Monday, November 19, 2012 7:39 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Photos needed

Hi Stu
Which version 35, and to what email address?

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
CC 35-III #11


Stu wrote:
 I have just received an email from BoatUS Publications:
 We are updating our online boat reviews and looking for a good photo
 of a CC 35, CC 99 and CC Landfall 38 sailboat, showing the whole
 boats well, preferably under sail. Would you be able to help me? We
 would give credit to the photographer of course.
 If you have any photos that qualify, send them to me and I'll send
 them to BoatUS after I gloat over them and paste a bunch on the Photo
 Album - after all it is a photo album.
 Stu



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-
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2013.0.2793 / Virus Database: 2629/5905 - Release Date: 11/19/12


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Re: Stus-List Keel mods vs Phrf Rating Now PHRF Sleepers

[Ron Casciato]

David:

The PHRF sleeper category has been around for a long time.

 

Depending on what class you want to sail in:  Fast vs Slower You could
start with an old Frers 36 built by Carroll MarineUnbeatable in that
class.;  You could then move down to an Islander 36 tall rigalso tough
to get in front of; or as Dennis Conner did several years ago to a Ranger
26...

 

The boat to beat in my class (B) 100-130 is an old Pearson Flyer, he's been
the second Flyer we've seen over the last 20 years and both are always at
the front.  He's chased once in a while by a Laser 28and then a Frers 33
and me.  Once in a while we get luckymost of the time, they're just
good.

 

All ratings asideyou still have to have competitive crew and sail
well..

 

Best,

 

Ron Casciato

Impromptu

CC 38MKIIC...'77

Mass Bay

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David
Risch
Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2012 8:57 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Keel mods vs Phrf Rating

 

Taras,

If I were to buy a PHRF-Beater  (a boat that easily or more easily sails
to its rating)  it would be a Frers XX (take your choice).

Very anecdotal of course, but I have been told, and witnessed myself, that
as a baseline, they seem to have a good rating for their speed.   

My 2 cents...   

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)



  _  

Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2012 09:25:21 -0400
From: mike.h...@impgroup.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Keel mods vs Phrf Rating

Taras

 

Back to one of your roriginal questions

 

2) This boat also has an additional genoa track closer to the rail.  Should
this affect the handicap?

 

In most areas moving genoa tracks and other gear on the decks has no affect
on handicap.  In our area (Nova Scotia) it does not.  As a matter of fact
last Spring I installed an additional jib track on our J27 that was on the
deck rather than coach roof to open the slot when sailing with #3 in windier
conditions.  This has no effect on rating as is the same as barber hauling
or if more inboard then inhauling ...  which we are supoposed to be doing
anyway.  The outboard track did have a very positive effect on boat handling
this Fall when the wind came up.  We now have three tracks on each side .. 2
forward and one aft for the #2  #1

 

Mike

 

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of TARAS
IWANYCKI
Sent: Sunday, November 11, 2012 8:58 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Keel mods vs Phrf Rating

I have a general question about boat dynamics and related phrf rating 

I have been racing against a Frers33 this season, a first-time boat owner
with green crew, that cleaned up and won almost everything in all conditions

Many of us are asking whether is handicap was correct.

The OD rating for the boat is 114 and the owner claimed this for the season

This boat had it's keel depth shortened by 6-8 inches and added a bulb to
equal the lost keel weight.  From what I understand, if you add a bulb to
your keel, it will stiffen the boat's feelcorrect? But...

1) What impact would cutting the keel down and adding a bulb to offset the
lost ballast do?  Would she be faster? slower?  Point higher? Lower?

2) This boat also has an additional genoa track closer to the rail.  Should
this affect the handicap?

3) What is the official way of determining the correct handicap? Is there an
official body to address?

 

Thanks

Taras


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Re: Stus-List Headliner access panels

[Ron Casciato]

I'd be careful of Starboard...it's heavy for that application even
in 1/8 thickness and I don't actually know if it's available thin or in the
length dimensions you'd need.

The original wood panels used to be called door skins and are likely the
cover panels of hollow core doorsoften in luan mahogany plywood.
Those are still available.   The vinyl covering can be purchased from
Sailrite??? The sewing machine and sail repair materials company.  

I recommend using the small screw cap setsavailable at Home
Desperate or Lowe's.  The cap snaps on over the screw head and snaps to the
washer..easy to install and remove.  I used about 3 per panel down
the middle and they become invisible in a very short time.

Best,

Ron C.
Impromptu
CC 38MKIIC'77
Mass Bay

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel
Aronson
Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2012 7:00 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Headliner access panels

Graham
 Thanks. I didn't know that is available in1/8 th inch. Time to google!

Joel Aronson


On Nov 13, 2012, at 6:51 PM, Graham Collins cnclistforw...@hotmail.com
wrote:

 Hi Joel
 I replaced mine with 1/8 marine plywood, epoxy coated and then painted
with Tremclad hammered finish spray in navajo white - blends in perfectly.

 As Jake mentioned, and you may agree, the velcro does have some issues -
mine are pretty good but don't stay tight so I may add a couple of strategic
screws and caps.

 Graham Collins
 Secret Plans
 CC 35-III #11


 Joel Aronson wrote:
 Several of the panels have delaminated.  1/4 inch plywood would be too
thick.  Is there a better replacement?  Has anyone either re-used the vinyl
or found a replacement?  What glue would you use?

 Thanks!

 --
 Joel
 301 541 8551


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Re: Stus-List Keel mods vs Phrf Rating

[Ron Casciato]

Rick:

 

My 38MKII here in NE is rated at 120R and 132C which is consistent with the
12 sec difference for a masthead rig. 

 

The base rating was 114R but was adjusted 6 seconds for an above deck
working roller furling giving it a recreational handicap adjustment  That
adjustment allows only 2 headsails sails.1 above 110 and 1 at or below
110; and only one nylon spinnaker.  That adjustment makes my racing
handicap 120 and the 12 sec's cruising rating goes to 132.  

 

However.since Asym spinnakers do not result in a penalty and if you only
use that spinnakeryou can claim no spinnaker pole and get another 9
secs added to your Racing rating..no change for the cruising rating , of
course.  

 

Therefore I end up at a racing rating of 129 and a cruising rating of
132further since our Hingham Fleet allows spinnaker and non-spinnaker
boats to race in the same fleetthe cruising boats get an additional
10% of their cruising rating for the mixed fleet.so I end up  in that
case with a racing rating of 129 and a cruising rating for mixed fleets at
145. (132+13.2)..

 

You can imagine the discussion at the dock or at the starting line on days
with lots of wind or very little wind about how we'll sail that race..

 

Here's the link to the NEPHRF handicap adjustments pageit makes your
head hurt to absorb all that's here.

http://www.phrfne.org/page/handicapping/handicap_adjustments 

 

Best,

 

Ron Casciato

Impromptu

CC 38MKIIC..'77

Mass Bay

 

 

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Brass
Sent: Monday, November 12, 2012 11:09 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Keel mods vs Phrf Rating

 

Dwight;

 

The NC PHRF base rating is 117 for the 38 Mk1 or Mk2, and 126 for the 35
Mk2. 9 seconds difference is consistent with the spread in your area. I
presume you have more wind than we do.

 

When I was racing regularly, my rating was 120 because of the keel mod. I
raced against a 35 Mk2 that was rated at 126 and we were fairly evenly
matched. I was faster upwind, and could outpoint him by 3 or 4 degrees, and
he was faster downwind. Race outcome was largely a matter of the time
difference to the upwind mark.

 

Pointing depends on the wind - the higher the apparent wind, the better I
can point. In typical winds (10 to 15 apparent around here; say 8 to 10
true.) I can point to 28 or 29 apparent. Above 28 I am pinched and lose
speed. The boat is fastest, according to the GPS which shows the velocity
towards the mark and not true VMG, when footed off slightly to about 30
apparent. Again, that seems to be pretty consistent with your experience.

 

I just looked at the current NC-PHRF information on line, and I see that The
Edge (the 35 Mk2) is now rated at 129, possibly because of the above deck
furler. I also see that Delaney, a 38 in Oriental that belongs to another of
the listers, is rated at 129 as well. Perhaps I should go back and get a new
PHRF rating? I never did apply for an adjustment for the fixed 2 blade prop,
and now I have a 140% roller furling genoa that tacks 18 above the deck, a
non-adjustable baby stay, a radically undersized cruising A-sail for a
spinnaker, and a radar arch  and dinghy davits on the stern. 

 

I'm pretty sure all that would justify a 126 rating. I wonder how Delaney
got to 129?

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight
veinot
Sent: Monday, November 12, 2012 8:58 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Keel mods vs Phrf Rating

 

Rick

 

You say I can still point up to under 30 degrees apparent, 

 

My 35 MKII will sail at 30 degrees to apparent wind but I have found that my
VMG (wind) is highest when I sail at about 33 degrees to apparent.  I don't
have the numbers for all of my headsails because I have only been carrying
my furling 135 since I installed my Raymarine ST60 system which gave me the
ability to display VMG(wind) on the fly.  I would expect that I may get
different results with different sized headsails and different wind and or
sea conditions; like with my racing 150 in say 10-12 apparent and flat seas
VMG (wind) may be best at 30 apparent or below.  

 

By New England PHRF my 35 MKII has a base rating of 120, slightly slower
than your 38MKI (111 by New England numbers) but you race it at 120.

 

My question to you is: do you find pointing at under 30 degrees to apparent
to result in your best VMG to weather under all conditions?  

 

Dwight Veinot

CC 35 MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

 

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Re: Stus-List 35-1 Masthead and spinnaker block attachment improvements

[Ron Casciato]

HI Dennis:

 

I'd like to see that arrangement, I'm looking to do something with the top
of my mast in the spring.  I was looking at the masthead rigs on the new
CC's like the 115 and 121...they are also quite interesting but would
require more work than yours.

 

Thanks,  

Ron C.

Impromptu

CC 38MKIIC...'77

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C.
Sent: Friday, November 09, 2012 5:35 PM
To: Cn Clist
Subject: Stus-List 35-1 Masthead and spinnaker block attachment improvements

 

Touche's masthead does not have a crane or cranes or a bail from which to
hang the two spinnaker halyard blocks.  Instead it has an ear about 1 inch
wide through which a 1/2 inch high-load shackle was placed.  Two spinnaker
halyard blocks hung from the shackle.  The masthead arrangement was very
tight.  The two blocks hung down and contacted the top of the furler
extrusion.  As the furler turned, the blocks were knocked outward with each
revolution.  Not an ideal situation.

 

The wind instrument on the very forward part of the masthead deterred
installation of a plate or bail.  I focused on using the existing ear.

 

As part of a general tweaking and upgrading of the furler, forestay and
masthead, I came up with a better configuration.  The shackle was replaced
with a 2100 lb load eyebolt with an eyenut on the other end.  The eye bolt
passes through the ear, the eyenut is screwed on the other side and secured
with a cotter key through a hole drilled through the eyenut and eyebolt
shaft.  Two new 75 mm Harken ESP 2200 lb load blocks now hang from either
eye.  Their screwpin is secured with Monel seizing wire.  The blocks are now
spaced 3-4 inches apart and no longer contact the furler extrusion.

 

I also removed an extra toggle at the top of the forestay,  installed a new
longer forestay and extended the furler extrusion above the masthead sheaves
that hold the genoa halyards.  The furler extrusion was cutting those
halyards.  The Harken furler had to be disassembled and reassembled with the
new forestay.

 

The mast rake is now closer to the 1 degree thought to be near optimum for
the boat.  A sea trial in 10-13 the other day showed a helm near neutral.

 

If any listers have a similar masthead arrangement, I can send pics.  

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

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Re: Stus-List Rudder Re-build/replacement

[Ron Casciato]

Alex.
The rudder shaft on my 38mkIIC was solidincluding the welded blade, it took 
two people to move it around. 
Ron C
Impromptu.38 MKIIC '77

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 22, 2012, at 12:10 PM, Alex Giannelia a...@airsensing.com wrote:

 For those who did a post mortem on their stainless steel shafts, were they 
 hollow or solid?
 
 ALEX GIANNELIA
 
 Phone (416) 203-9858
 Fax   (416) 203-9843
 Cell   (416) 529-0070
 
 email: a...@airsensing.com
 WEB: www.airsensing.com
 
 
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Re: Stus-List Rudder Re-build/replacement

[Ron Casciato]

HI Alex:
I recently had an earlier post on this topic...contact me off line
for details.  Depending on what you actually need, you may want to have
someone skilled in foils do this.  You definitely affect the performance of
your boat with such a project.  

Good luck.

Ron Casciato
Impromptu
CC 38MKIIC   '77

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Alex
Giannelia
Sent: Friday, October 19, 2012 1:56 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Rudder Re-build/replacement

Has anyone on the list replaced or re-built their rudder?

ALEX GIANNELIA

CC 35-II (1974) WILL BE RENAMED
ON THE HARD SINCE NOV. 2006
Toronto Ontario


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Re: Stus-List Rudder Re-build/replacement

[Ron Casciato]

Dwight:  

I don't think that CC made bad rudders...but most of our boats are
old and age does have an effect on them.  The most common problem is having
the rudder collect water inside as the result of cracks or most likely the
top where the shaft goes in and it is not permanently sealed (if there is
such a thing as a permanent seal).

My 1977 CC 38MKIIC had such a problem..it would drip for days when
we took it out in the winter and I put up with it for several years.  This
year, I decided it was time to fix it and I had a new rudder fabricated
using the old rudder skeleton.  When the shop took the skin off the rudder,
the inside was a black gunky mess of stuff (nautical term)   The stainless
skeleton inside my rudder is comprised of a 2+diameter solid stainless
shaft with a 3/8 plate stainless panel welded to it from about half way
down and braced with several 2 wide straps of 3/8 stainless on each side.
The consensus is that water constantly leaked in from the top at the shaft.
Eventually weakening the sides and dripping out of the bottom via cracks in
the fiberglass covering.

I had Composite Solutions, Inc. of Weymouth MA do the work and they stripped
the skeleton to the bone and then made two half molds on a CNC machine for
the new rudder.  They used gel coat and cloth to make the skin and a foam
core that was cut out to accommodate the skeleton.  All slathered up with
adhesive, each half was mated and glued up via vacuum bagging technique.  It
was an impressive project, but the end result is a new solid rudder that my
boat seems to like very nicely.  Compared to the previous quote, mine cost
$4000 to strip and fabricate and about a half day each way to disassemble
and reassemble on the boat. 

Composite Solutions, Inc. is a well known designer and fabricator of high
performance carbon fiber boat structures, e.g. America's Cup rudder
bearings, booms, masts, and the new Navtec carbon fiber composite rigging
ends for Dyneema rigging.  They used Fiberglass for my rudder because carbon
fiber would have impacted the PHRF rating.

I don't know how prevalent the problem is, or whether CC's are the only
ones..I think it's an age dependant and climate related issue for almost
any sailboat. Be Watchful ...

Best,

Ron Casciato
Impromptu
CC 38MKIIC'77








-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight
veinot
Sent: Friday, October 19, 2012 4:30 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder Re-build/replacement

I don't get it...did CC make bad rudders or what??? Seems it costs a lot to
get a new one made...I haven't had such a problem yet on any CC I have
owned and I hope it stays that way...but the rudder on my 1974 CC 35 is
nearly ready to apply for the pension...no obvious problems yet as far as I
can tell...the boat steers just fine and feels great but I know guys in
their late 70's who are still sailing and maintaining their own CC's so
maybe they would think my rudder is still a youngster.

Sorry a new one cost you that much but you can't sail very well without
one!!!

Dwight Veinot
CC 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of RAYMOND
SHIBE
Sent: October 19, 2012 5:17 PM
To: CnC
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder Re-build/replacement

Alex,
Had replace a rudder in 2010 for Stinky Dog a 1984 CC 41. South Shore 
Yachts
built one from sratch. No complaints.
It was the better part of $7000.00 including brokerage fees
and shipping to New Jersey. Shipping would probably be less to Toronto
and no brokerage costs.

Ray Shibe


 Has anyone on the list replaced or re-built their rudder?

 ALEX GIANNELIA

 CC 35-II (1974) WILL BE RENAMED
 ON THE HARD SINCE NOV. 2006
 Toronto Ontario

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Re: Stus-List CC 115 new keel joint video

[Ron Casciato]

Gary and James:

In the course of redoing the bottom on my 38MKIIC in 1998my
fiberglass shop found some punky bondo-like filler around the upper joint.  

My guys here are pros at that stuff and I can't count on how many CC's
they've done from older ones to newer ones like the 115 in this video.  

Their fix is to drop the keel, and they do not use 5200, they use a marine
adhesive instead, and then they lay up epoxy cloth over the joint and fair
it to the keel from the bottom of the hull downward.  To date, there is no
movement, joint reappearance, or weeping from anything under there.

This year, I finally had to rebuild the rudder..years of water intrusion
and freezing and other guck inside just required I do something.  Using the
original skeleton inside which is way overbuilt, another shop fabricated a
new rudder using the original shape (sort of).  The result is really nice
and the point of this is to let you know that the removal of the rudder and
the top fittings went just fine.  I had the two set screws at 45degrees that
came out easily, and the quadrant came off nicely as well.It's never
been off the boat since 1977. It's a project that you shouldn't shy away
from..just take your time and it will be OK..

Best,

Ron Casciato
Impromptu
CC 38MKIIC.'77
New England 



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of jtsails
Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2012 7:07 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List CC 115 new keel joint video

Gary,
I really!! don't like hearing that. This is  a project that I'm going to

have to tackle on my 38' as well. The keel joint is showing a definite crack

along the entire length but I don't have any water in the bilge at this 
point. Advice?
James
Delaney
CC 38 1976
Oriental, NC


- Original Message - 
From: ahycr...@cox.net
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2012 6:20 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List CC 115 new keel joint video


 Joel
Two years ago I did the same thing to  Liberty a 1976 38' MK I. 
 Unfortunately we discovered that all the keel bolts had to be replaced as 
 well. The bill for the whole thing was around 12K. I have a log as well as

 pics of the whole ugly affair.

   Gary 
 Kolc

  Joel Aronson joel.aron...@gmail.com wrote:
 I'm glad I didn't get that bill!

 Joel
 Sent from my iPad

 On Oct 16, 2012, at 5:33 PM, Martin DeYoung mdeyo...@deyoungmfg.com 
 wrote:

   This story on the Three Sheets Northwest web site may be interesting to
 CC'rs thinking about a keel joint rebed project.




http://threesheetsnw.com/blog/2012/10/racing-sailboat-dacha-gets-a-new-keel-
joint/



 Martin

 Calypso

 1970 CC 43

 Seattle



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Re: Stus-List Adding Keel Shoes

[Ron Casciato]

Alex, I'm pretty sure that Rob Ball was the responsible designer pre-1980 as
well.

-Original Message-
From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of Alex Giannelia
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2012 12:44 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Adding Keel Shoes

Fred,

Thanks for that info.  I have been researching the issue of keel/rudder
shape for quite some time and no conclusive answers. Some feel the
elliptical ends are best (mainly for rudders) and there is another body of
thought that the bottoms should be squared off.  If aerodynamics and
hydrodynamics were a real science, they would all look the same.

I noticed the pre-Rob Ball designs had rounded bottom edges and the post
1980 designs had flat shoes.  

One now deceased sailor at our club in fact took his original swept back
Viking 33 keel off, sent it to Mars and had it reshaped to look like the Rob
Ball designs and got great pointing as a result.

Another guy at another club simply melted old batteries and extended the
keel as you did.


Alex:

I was fortunately able to get a drawing of the shoe from Rob Ball that
extended the existing keel in all aspects.  Once it was faired in you could
not tell it did not come from the factory like that.

As I recall the bottom of the keel was flat.

Fred


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Re: Stus-List WTB and Re: CC 35Mk III Spinnaker Sheets / Guys

[Ron Casciato]

HI Bill:  

I happen to have a spinnaker set up for a 38MKII which uses the same hull,
almost.  MY 38 is a 1977 and they may have changed the dimensions of the J
dimension by 1985, nevertheless, if you contact me off line, I have the
complete set-up including the spinnaker car and sheets, reaching strut and 2
older spinnakers.we'll chat.  Easily delivered to Ct.

Best,

Ron Casciato
Impromptu38
CC 38MKIIC  '77
Boston area

-Original Message-
From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of William Hall
Sent: Monday, September 17, 2012 8:48 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List WTB and Re: CC 35Mk III Spinnaker Sheets / Guys

How do you jibe this setup? Do you have to attach a guy during the
jibe?  That sounds tricky!

My boat is new to me and came with an asymmetric chute that doesn't
measure well for PHRF - it's pretty small, yet I'm penalized for it on
the rating.  Any former racers out there have a functional symmetric
chute that they'd like to part with?  How about a pole?  Ideally, luff
length would be 50', foot / mid-girth would be 27'9 and pole would be
15'5

Bill Hall
1985 CC 37 Starfire
Stamford, CT

On Mon, Sep 17, 2012 at 8:12 AM, Morgenstern, Keith E CIV SEA 08 NR
keith.morgenst...@navy.mil wrote:
 On Beyond the Sea, we've had a few different setups.

 Originally we had 3/8 stayset for the sheets and an older,
 sorta-low-stretch 1/2 line for guys.

 I've never really had issues with the sheets, but the guys were too
 stretchy and in any sort of reaching condition they'd let the pole bang
 the forestay.

 This year we upgraded all of it.

 I used 3/8 ultra-tech for guys. With ronstan snap shackles and donuts
 to protect pole jaw

 For spin sheets, I spliced 1/4 spectra to some 3/8 Samson LS line,
 with the spectra exposed.  Effectively a stripped line, but without
 paying spectra-prices for the part that is laying on the cockpit floor
 under no load.  I think I went with 20' stripped, but I'd make it less
 if I had to do again. Maybe 15' next time.

 For shackles, I seem to do the opposite of everyone.

 I go for large bales for the spin sheets and small bales for the guys.
 My reasoning is this: the rings for the clews are sorta small, and
 there's not room for both shackles to attach, so I attach the sheet to
 the clew, and the guy to the sheet's shackle.  Hence the need for a
 large bale for the sheet.

 This allows us to take the guys off for light air nights without
 struggling with getting it out of the small-ish ring on the clew.

 I probably could stop using sheets and guys, and instead just go SHEETS
 with twings...but I have the crew all trained on sheets and guys, no
 need to solve a problem that isn't there. And yes, we end-for-end with
 this setup.

 -Keith M
 CC 35-3
 Beyond the Sea


 -Original Message-
 From: Indigo [mailto:ind...@thethomsons.us]
 Sent: Friday, September 14, 2012 12:24
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Stus-List CC 35Mk III Spinnaker Sheets / Guys

 I am thinking of getting new spinnaker sheets made up this winter for
 Indigo.  I will probably go with standard snap-shackles as the Tylaska
 shackles are a luxury I do not really need.  I was wondering what line
 is recommended by other 35MKIII listers, and whether it makes sense to
 remove the cover (and how much).   I will be sticking with my older guys
 for at least another year or so.



 Jonathan

 Indigo

 35MIII - Southport CT








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-- 
William D. Hall, Ph.D.
203 653 2886 (o)
617 620 9078 (c)
wh...@alum.mit.edu

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