Stus-List Keel Bolt Question

[Steven A. Demore via CnC-List]

Hey folks,

I pulled my mast for rebuild and upgrades, and while it is out, the step is
being rebuilt.  I removed the stringers today and as suggested before, while
putting it all back together, I will retighten the keel bolts.  The bilge is
still black and full of grunge, but one thing I've wondered about since
picking up the boat, is the nuts on the keel bolts.  There is something like
a washer, but I can't tell yet if it is wood or what.  They are big and
square, and go from one side of the bilge to the other, segmenting the bilge
into little sections between the bolts.  Each section forms a pool of water,
keeping everything wet and preventing good drainage into the deep section
where the pump is.   Can anybody tell me what those washer-like things are
and whether they can be trimmed in width, to allow the water to flow freely?
Thanks,
Steve

 

SV Doin' It Right
1973 C&C 30 MK1
Pasadena, MD

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Stus-List Mast Wire Question

[Steven A. Demore via CnC-List]

I have the mast of my C&C 30 MK1 down for rebuild right now.  Just replaced
the wiring and found a cable I'm not sure about.  It is a heavy gauge
stranded single conductor wire, maybe 1/8 or 3/16, with a thick red
insulation on it.  If I had to guess, a heavy ground wire.  There is about
20 feet of cable coiled at the base of the mast and it goes all the way to
the top of the mast, where it just sticks out 6 or 12 inches.

Did these boats have lightning rods or something originally?  Is there
something that a big ground wire would do that a 45 foot hunk of aluminum
wouldn't do?  I'm afraid to ask this one, as it is probably a religious
argument, but should the mast (or a lightning rod??) be grounded to a keel
bolt or something?  If there is supposed to be a lightning rod, does anybody
have a picture of one and how it is mounted?

 

Thanks,
Steve

 

SV Doin' It Right
1973 C&C 30 MK1
Pasadena, MD

 

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Re: Stus-List Sea Hawk Bottom Paint

[Steven A. Demore via CnC-List]

I’m curious to see the responses as well.  Last year was my first with ablative 
bottom paint and I used TotalBoat Underdog.  Great reviews, but my experience 
in the Chesapeake Bay was that I had to be hauled and pressure washed by late 
summer, because I couldn’t get the engine above an idle.   The barnacle growth 
was complete coverage of the prop and about 3” thick algae forest on the hull 
with heavy barnacle growth under it.  I know last year was bad for growth on 
the bay, but I have to find something better this year.  

 

From: John and Maryann Read [mailto:johnprea...@gmail.com] 
Sent: Sunday, March 10, 2019 12:14 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Sea Hawk Bottom Paint

 

Am searching for a better water based ablative multi season bottom paint.  Moor 
in a river with salt tidal water so there is a constant water movement.  
Temperature ranges from 55 in early spring to 70 in late August.  Have used 
Pettit Hydrocoat SR with less than satisfactory results – much slime.  Came 
across SeaHawk which by its claims looks promising.  Anyone have experience??

 

https://www.bottompaintstore.com/boat-bottom-paint-c-13523.html/boat-bottom-paint-water-based-bottom-paint-c-13523_14116.html/monterey-self-polishing-solvent-free-bottom-paint-p-9484.html

 

TIA

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

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Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

[Steven A. Demore via CnC-List]

Another 2 cents.  I would use penetrating epoxy on them.  It soaks into the wood and seals everything (not to mention looks exceptional).  Since the epoxy isn't UV protected, cover it with 3 or 4 coats of varnish.  You may have to clean and reapply the varnish as usual, but the penetrating epoxy will last for life and keep the wood sealed. 
Steve
 

 Original Message Subject: Stus-List Epoxy or not.From: Bev Parslow Date: Mon, February 18, 2019 6:30 pmTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Just doing the teak handrails. They are coming up quite well BUT do I epoxy and then 3-4 coats of varnish or just put the varnish on an skip the epoxy?


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Stus-List Mast Wedge Help

[Steven A. Demore via CnC-List]

I had my C&C 30 MK1 dismasted yesterday to do some work on it.  The boat
came with no wedges in the deck collar, so I made some one day, just to get
through summer.  While taking down the mast yesterday, I asked the rigger
what kind of wedges it should have.  He said he wasn't sure whether C&Cs
came with wedges, or a metal spacer.  Does anybody know what the factory
used to support the mast through the deck?

Also, while I am at it. Any suggestions on anything I should be checking on
the mast?  I'm replacing the wiring, going to LED lights, replacing all of
the running rigging, new blocks and sheaves, and checking out the step.  The
boom has the internal blocks and wire for tensioning the foot of the main,
but I don't know whether that is accessible for maintenance or not.

 

One last thing.  I was planning to mount steps (the triangular aluminum
ones) on the sides of the mast.  The rigger recommended against it because
of the number of holes in the mast.  Anybody have thought on whether a
series of small holes (1/8, 3/16??) would weaken the mast?



Thanks,

Steve

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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Using West Marine in-store swaging tool for lifelines?

[Steven A. Demore via CnC-List]

When I made my new lifelines last year, I bought a crimping tool at Bacon 
Sails.  It was a little metal block with holes for 4 sizes of crimps, with a 
bolt on each end that gets tightened down to make the crimp.  It cost about $35 
and was handy as can be.

 

Steve Demore
S/V Doin’ It Right
C&C 20 MK1

 

From: Della Barba, Joe [mailto:joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov] 
Sent: Wednesday, January 2, 2019 10:34 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Using West Marine in-store swaging tool 
for lifelines?

 

Not all West Marine shops are any good at rigging. The Annapolis West Marine 
has an actual rigging shop in the store and made my lifelines for pretty cheap. 
If you don’t have gates in the middle it is just 2 pieces of wire, 4 ends, and 
labor to press them on. I think it was something like $120 or so for my boat.

 

 

Joe Della Barba

Coquina

C&C 35 MK I

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Matthew L. 
Wolford via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2019 9:22 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: Matthew L. Wolford mailto:wolf...@erie.net> >
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Using West Marine in-store swaging tool for 
lifelines?

 

FWIW, it may be worth comparing the price of materials and a swage tool against 
the cost of having an outfitting company like Rigging Only fabricate 
replacements.

 

From: Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List   

Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2019 8:42 AM

To: C  &C List 

Cc: Bruce Whitmore   

Subject: Stus-List Using West Marine in-store swaging tool for lifelines?

 

Hello all,

 

I need to replace the lifelines on my 1994 37/40+.  I am going to go with bare 
7/19 wire, and need to crimp on the stud fittings.  For the hand crimp stud 
fittings, Johnson says not to use a nicopress tool.  West Marine's had swage 
tool is set to use both for oval (nicopress) fittings and round fittings, but 
the person at the store had no idea if the tool was adequate for the stud 
lifeline fittings.

 

I wasn't ready to do it this weekend, but would like to get the job done 
shortly.

 

Does anyone here know? 

 

Thank you!

 

Bruce Whitmore
"Astralis"
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net  

  _  

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Re: Stus-List Cabin top grab-rail removal/refasten 30' MK1

[Steven A. Demore via CnC-List]

On mine, the front parts have screws going through the headliner in the head, 
above the hanging locker, and above the bulkhead going into the main cabin.  
Rach section has two screws and in mine, they have little silver plugs covering 
the holes.  In the main cabin, the screws go through the interior grab rail and 
are covered by teak plugs.  Again, two screws at each mount point.

-Original Message-
From: Chris Hobson [mailto:chrish...@yahoo.com] 
Sent: Sunday, April 15, 2018 12:57 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Cabin top grab-rail removal/refasten 30' MK1

With the cabin headliner on my 1980 30’ MK1 being one solid piece, there are no 
accessible bolts for the cabin top grab rail. I’m sure I could figure out how 
to remove the grab rail but without a bolt to hold the underside to tighten it 
back up I’m a bit lost. Does anyone know how how I’d refasten one of these to 
the cabin top?

I suppose one way to find out would be to cross my fingers remove the grab 
rails, and have look around. 

Thanks
Chris



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Stus-List Dodger and Bimini Configuration Question

[Steven A. Demore via CnC-List]

I'm rehabbing a '73 C&C 30 MK1, with the main sheet traveler right in front
of the wheel.  There was a dodger on it at one time, but no signs of a
bimini.  I'm trying to figure out how a dodger/bimini setup would work on
this boat, with the low boom and the traveler coming down so far back in the
cockpit.  Does anybody have one and if so, how does it work on your boat?  

Thanks,

Steve

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Stus-List Bilge Pump Drain Location

[Steven A. Demore via CnC-List]

Question for the C&C 30 MK1 owners.  Where does your bilge pump drain?  I
picked up mu project boat last winter and they had the hose from the bilge
pump connected to the vent fitting for the head holding tank.  I am putting
the head back together and will need that vent, but I can't figure out where
the bilge pump would connected to a thruhull.

 

Thanks,

Steve

 

SV Doin' It Right
1973 C&C 30 MK1
Pasadena, MD

 

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Re: Stus-List C&C 30

[Steven A. Demore via CnC-List]

Mine is also a 1973 and I assume the last 3 numbers of the serial number is the 
hull number.  If so, mine is hull 155.

Steve

-Original Message-
From: Stu [mailto:s...@cncphotoalbum.com] 
Sent: Sunday, November 26, 2017 5:40 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List C&C 30

According to Wikipedia (don't know if accurate or official) they claim that 800 
30 MKI's were built.

Mine was a 1973 hull number 133.

Stu





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Re: Stus-List C&C 30 MK1 Shade

[Steven A. Demore via CnC-List]

Thanks Aaron!

 

From: Aaron Rouhi [mailto:admiralmag...@outlook.com] 
Sent: Saturday, October 7, 2017 7:39 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 30 MK1 Shade

 

I have a Bimini and Dodger on my 30-1. The Bimini is made by Genco Marine (they 
have made tons of these for C&Cs have patterns on file) and Dodger is custom 
made locally by Bacon Sails. The Bimini is attached to the rail and has slots 
for my double backstay adjustor...  

 

I will dig up some photos for you...  

 

Cheers, 

Aaron

Admiral Maggie

79 30-1

Annapolis, MD


On Oct 6, 2017, at 8:21 PM, Steven A. Demore via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Curious as to whether anybody has a bimini/dodger on a 30 MK1 and if so, how it 
is built.  Looking to put one on my boat, but with the low boom and the main 
sheet in the middle of the cockpit, not sure how it would be laid out.  

 

Thanks,
Steve

 

SV Doin’ It Right
1973 C&C 30 MK1
Pasadena, MD

 

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Stus-List C&C 30 MK1 Shade

[Steven A. Demore via CnC-List]

Curious as to whether anybody has a bimini/dodger on a 30 MK1 and if so, how
it is built.  Looking to put one on my boat, but with the low boom and the
main sheet in the middle of the cockpit, not sure how it would be laid out.


 

Thanks,
Steve

 

SV Doin' It Right
1973 C&C 30 MK1
Pasadena, MD

 

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The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List 73 30 MK1 Bilge Pump

[Steven A. Demore via CnC-List]

While we're having so many conversations on bilge pumps, I have another
question for you.  I picked up a project  '73 30' MK 1.  There is a float
switch in the bilge, right under the forward access hole.  There are wires
leading forward through the bilge toward the mast, as well as a hose that
leads out of the bilge, around the head, up the wall by the holding tank,
and out through a drain at the top of the hull (I had assumed it to be a
vent previously).  I have reached up through the bilge as far as I can, put
a camera in there and took some pictures, used a mirror and flashlight,
everything I could think of (I don't have a borescope), but I can't find the
pump or the end of the hose/wires.  Does anybody know how to access the pump
and whether it is screwed down?  It almost has to be forward of the mast,
but I can't reach it.  I don't want to pull too hard on the hose, but I need
to find the pump and see what kind of shape it is in.  Any ideas?
Thanks,
Steve

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Re: Stus-List C&C 30 MK1 General Questions

[Steven A. Demore via CnC-List]

Joe,


Thanks for the suggestions.  I have pictures here to help 
http://www.demore.com/images/Water_Tank.  

 

I don’t think I can replace the tank, as it is the base of the settee, though I 
am open to suggestions.  It isn’t an insert, it is all one piece, with a top 
that screws on, presumably with a gasket, though likely with caulk type sealant 
in the future, since I don’t have the gaskets.  I thought there might be 
something to line the existing tank with, either a liquid material (paint?) or 
a flexible (rubber, silicone?) collapsible tank liner.  

 

Thanks again,

Steve

 

 

From: Joseph Bognar [mailto:jbog...@sympatico.ca] 
Sent: Tuesday, July 11, 2017 9:13 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 30 MK1 General Questions

 

I would replace the water tank and not take any chances with it . Some photos 
of your sette would help also. My 30 is of the 1979 vintage . I have an extra 
piece of plywood on top of the sette . It slides between the metal brackets and 
pulls out to make the bed a bit bigger to lay on . 

Sent from Joe Bognar

 


On Jul 11, 2017, at 7:59 PM, Steven A. Demore via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Need some help/advice from some more experienced C&C people.  I am rebuilding a 
’73 30 MK1 project boat, that was started a few years ago by another person and 
abandoned along the way.  I am focused on the settee area right now.  First, I 
think I can get the mold cleaned out of the water tank, but it looks like there 
are some fine cracks in the bottom.  Is there something that I can do to seal 
it up (paint, liner, ?) that would be safe for potable water?

 

Second, the settee itself has a couple of metal brackets on the top that would 
keep cushions from sitting flat.  Can somebody tell me how the settee goes 
together, i.e. is there a board on top or something?  A picture might be 
helpful as well, since I am going to have to build whatever goes in there.

 

I’m sure that I’ll have a lot more questions as this project commences, so 
thanks in advance!


Steve

 

SV Doin’ It Right
1973 C&C 30 MK1
Pasadena, MD

 

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Stus-List C&C 30 MK1 General Questions

[Steven A. Demore via CnC-List]

Need some help/advice from some more experienced C&C people.  I am
rebuilding a '73 30 MK1 project boat, that was started a few years ago by
another person and abandoned along the way.  I am focused on the settee area
right now.  First, I think I can get the mold cleaned out of the water tank,
but it looks like there are some fine cracks in the bottom.  Is there
something that I can do to seal it up (paint, liner, ?) that would be safe
for potable water?

 

Second, the settee itself has a couple of metal brackets on the top that
would keep cushions from sitting flat.  Can somebody tell me how the settee
goes together, i.e. is there a board on top or something?  A picture might
be helpful as well, since I am going to have to build whatever goes in
there.

 

I'm sure that I'll have a lot more questions as this project commences, so
thanks in advance!


Steve

 

SV Doin' It Right
1973 C&C 30 MK1
Pasadena, MD

 

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Stus-List C&C 30 MK1 Main sail

[Steven A. Demore via CnC-List]

I recently picked up a C&C 30 MK1 (1973) that had four head sails, but no
main.  I'm new to this whole sailing thing , so trying to learn on the fly.
The specs call for a 34' luff and a 11' 6" foot.  I've looked at all of the
used sail lofts I could find, but nothing in the right sizes.  Does anybody
have an idea of where I might find the right sail, or if I can vary from the
specs at all?


Thanks,

Steve

 

SV Doin' It Right
1973 C&C 30 MK1
Pasadena, MD

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