Stus-List Re: Broken C&C 36' Stern Chocks (aka Fairleads)

[Wyatt via CnC-List]

Assuming you already tried 'Don's Marine Surplus & Salvage' in Clearwater?
That place is the thing of legends.

Wyatt

On Wed, Jan 11, 2023 at 2:59 PM Tim Rutherford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Looking for a lead to buy salvage stern chocks for a 1981 C&C 36-1.
>
> Both port and starboard chocks were broken when Hurricane Ian drained all
> the water out of Tampa Bay and left our boats hanging by the dock lines.
>
> I've checked the usual suspects already: Holland Marine, Klacko, South
> Shore Yachts, Sailorman. Any help you can offer is most appreciated.
>
> Piccies:
> Port side broken stern chock
> 
> Starboard broken stern chock
> 
>
> Thanks,
> --
> Tim Rutherford
> Davis Island Yacht Club
> Tampa, FL
> tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: East coast boat yards?

[Wyatt via CnC-List]

J&R Marine Services in Placida FL is incredible, DIY yard with nice
liveaboard community at a good price

On Mon, Jan 2, 2023 at 5:47 PM John McCrea via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have heard from a good friend that kept his class 40 in Charleston that
> is was about 30 % cheaper than prices in the northeast. I can get the name
> of the yard if interested.
>
> John McCrea
> Talisman
> 1979 36-1
> Mystic, CT
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jan 2, 2023, at 5:42 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> 
>
> Dave,
>
> Folks on the East Coast tend to be fixated on the Florida Atlantic Coast.
> I recognize the convenience of being on the route from the Northeast to the
> islands.  However, there are other areas that bear consideration.
>
> Good boatyards abound on the Florida Gulf Coast.  I take Touche' 26 hours
> from Louisiana to haul at Pensacola Shipyard. I'm sure there are decent
> services on Florida's West Coast.
>
> Kemah, Tx has hundreds of sailboats.  I'm thinking there are good services
> there also.  A bit out of the way for where many want to explore but why
> not?
>
> Years ago, a couple from the US West Coast sold their boat in California
> and bought a boat in Louisiana for the express purpose of cruising the Gulf
> Coast from Lake Pontchartrain to the Keys and possibly beyond.  Interesting
> but well thought out idea.
> --
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Mon, Jan 2, 2023 at 4:16 PM Dave S via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>> Contemplating my next boat and have realized that sailing is best enjoyed
>> in a place that isn’t frozen.  Am looking to purchase a boat - likely in
>> the Caribbean, with the intention of cruising farther afield in 2-3 years.
>> The border services (taxation)  folks in my beautiful native Canada are
>> most willing to share in the adventure by charging an exorbitant stack
>> o’taxes and duties should said boat arrive for importation in Canada to
>> enjoy a 4 month sailing season or two.   As a Canadian citizen I cannot not
>> import it, not easily anyway.
>> So - we go away and we stay away, and we refit in the USA.
>> Can anyone recommend a yard in the south east that is reasonable and
>> decent to deal with?  I have been told that if Florida then north of
>> Jupiter.
>> Anyone have any other thoughts or experience on the subject?
>>
>> Many thanks all.
>>
>> Dave 33-2
>>
>>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Thanksgiving Temperatures

[Wyatt via CnC-List]

Welcome Via! Enjoy *Wind Dancer* ;)

On Mon, Nov 21, 2022 at 12:44 PM Via via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Hi All,
>
> New member and my 1979 C&C 36 “Wind Dancer” is in Oriental NC while I am
> in Austin, TX. The Town Dock newspaper keeps me up to date with live
> webcams and temps. It is 54 and sunny. I am happy to be a member and
> definitely will send a contribution along.
> Don't forget to show your appreciation and help pay the bills.  Make a
> contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Wyatt C&C36-1
Don't forget to show your appreciation and help pay the bills.  Make a 
contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.

Stus-List Re: Start panel mystery

[Wyatt via CnC-List]

Check your grounds! On my 36-1 there was a big ground connection near the
side of the engine compartment (so under the companionway steps) that had
josstled itself loose and caused a ton of weird electrical issues. I'd
recommend spending some time tracing the wires coming from your batteries,
especially on the ground/negative side of things, and look for loose/bad
connections. Good luck!

On Wed, Oct 26, 2022 at 2:34 PM David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Picture helps jog the memory.  That is exactly what the panel I have as
> well.  I remember the needle bouncing a bit when I push the glow plug
> button, but I don’t think it went to 30.  Will have to check.  I am glad
> you reminded me of that article.  One thing I think I can do is run the
> orange power wire  directly to the glow plug switch and see what happens.
> The meters won’t work, but I presume the engine should crank.  Dave
>
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
> On Oct 26, 2022, at 1:56 PM, dwight veinot via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> My ammeter had numbers just like the picture of the control panel shown in
> that article. The article also shows a wiring diagram.
>
> On Wed, Oct 26, 2022 at 1:57 PM David Knecht via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> It is wired just like the Universal manual diagram except that the jumper
>> for the start button was moved to the glow plug plus side so the two
>> switches are independent and you can start without pushing the glow plug
>> button.  I don’t remember what the ammeter shows when starting but I don’t
>> think my gauge has numbers.  I have not installed the glow plug solenoid he
>> discusses so that is stock.  Dave
>>
>> David Knecht
>> Rear Commodore
>> Thames Yacht Club
>> New London, CT
>>
>>
>>
>> On Oct 26, 2022, at 12:44 PM, dwight veinot via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> How is the ammeter at the control panel wired. Does the charge current
>> from the alternator go all the way from the alternator up to the ammeter on
>> the instrument panel and then back to the batteries?  I always felt that
>> glow plug button was kind of special and I noticed that my ammeter showed
>> 30 or more when I depressed it and for as long as it was depressed.
>>
>> On Wed, Oct 26, 2022 at 1:35 PM David Knecht via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Here are a few answers to the comments:
>>>
>>> All of this started with replacement of old switches for new ones. Same
>>> wires but each terminal cleaned before attachment.   I find it hard to
>>> believe that cleaned terminals and new switches caused a ground fault
>>> problem at some remote site that was not there before.  Things were
>>> generally working before I did anything. Now nothing works.
>>>
>>> To Dwights suggestion: After reading that Marine How to article years
>>> ago, I replaced all the trailer connectors with heat shrink direct butt
>>> splice connectors for each wire. I also installed a Blue Seas ACR/battery
>>> switch, so the batteries are supposed to be isolated.
>>>
>>> I really can’t understand how this problem is affecting both batteries
>>> when the two circuits are isolated by the ACR.  When I try to start the
>>> engine, everything goes crazy- including both battery volt meter readings.
>>> The meter goes completely blank as if both batteries are dead and then
>>> voltage slowly recovers over time.
>>>
>>> I am also mystified by how I can be measuring over 12V on the plus side
>>> of the key switch and 10V on the other side when it is on.  That is
>>> measured relative to a ground terminal on the tachometer.  There is nothing
>>> there except the switch itself, right?  I am guessing that means something
>>> in terms of the problem, but I don’t know what.
>>> Thanks- Dave
>>>
>>> S/V Aries
>>> 1990 C&C 34+
>>> New London, CT
>>>
>>> 
>>>
>>
>>> On Oct 26, 2022, at 11:48 AM, dwight veinot via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> If you have a Universal M4-30 engine with associated engine control
>>> panel with ammeter this article contains some very important information
>>> for you to know.
>>>  Universal Diesel Engine - Wiring Harness Upgrade - Marine How To
>>> 
>>> Dwight Veinot
>>> C&C 35 MKII, *Alianna*
>>> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
>>> d.ve...@bellaliant.net
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Tue, Oct 25, 2022 at 11:10 PM David Knecht via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
 More diagnosis- I found that when I checked the voltage at the engine
 panel ammeter (where power comes to the panel), it was 12V.  When I checked
 at the input side of the key switch it was 12 V.  When I turned the key
 switch on, I got 10V on the other pole of the key switch and everywhere
 downstream. I am presuming it should be 12V on both sides. I do not
 understand what that means and hoping someone else does.  The other weird
 thing is that

Stus-List Input on C&C designed Harpoon 4.6?

[Wyatt via CnC-List]

Hi there, I'm strongly considering picking one of these C&C-designed, but
Boston Whaler produced Harpoon 4.6s:

http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/designs/harpoon/harp461.htm
https://sailboatdata.com/sailboat/harpoon-46

Anyone have any input on these? I had an O'Day DSII (17') which I loved for
lake sailing...but a small C&C-designed dinghy sounds like a lot of fun too.

Thanks!
Wyatt

Stus-List Re: C&C 35 MK I Keel Bolts

[Wyatt via CnC-List]

Sorry for double email…but the boat needs to be on the hard as well so keel
is supported…

On Tue, Sep 13, 2022 at 10:51 AM Wyatt  wrote:

> That’s too much torque? I’ve seen C&C specs based on nut size, and for my
> 36-1 it was around 150 ft-lb
>
> On Tue, Sep 13, 2022 at 10:46 AM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I should have driven down and got it. 350 pounds is a LOT. My arms are
>> still sore!
>>
>> FYI – what you think is really tight with a normal extension is about 150
>> pounds, not 350. I have about 4 feet total to get to 350.
>>
>> If anyone needs to borrow the torque meter let me know.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Joe Della Barba
>>
>> Coquina C&C 35 MK I
>>
>> Kent Island MD USA
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* Josh via CnC-List 
>> *Sent:* Monday, September 5, 2022 4:18 PM
>> *To:* Stus-List 
>> *Cc:* Josh 
>> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: C&C 35 MK I Keel Bolts
>>
>>
>>
>> You can come borrow my torque multiplier.
>>
>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n6B0IPKQERc
>>
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C&C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>>
>>
>>
>> Sep 5, 2022 14:09:28 Joe Della Barba via CnC-List > >:
>>
>> Those sizes are correct – thanks!
>>
>> I don’t have a torque wrench that big, so I have them “tight”. I just
>> ordered this thing, so I can set them exactly:
>>
>>
>> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009GLITFW?psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&ref_=chk_typ_imgToDp
>>
>> Joe Della Barba
>>
>> Coquina C&C 35 MK I
>>
>> Kent Island MD USA
>>
>> *From:* Thomas Delaney via CnC-List 
>> *Sent:* Sunday, August 28, 2022 10:08 AM
>> *To:* Stus-List 
>> *Cc:* j...@dellabarba.com; Thomas Delaney 
>> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: C&C 35 MK I Keel Bolts
>>
>> Hi Joe,
>>
>> I believe it is 1 1/8" for the front-most nut and 1 1/2" for the rest.
>>
>> Best,
>>
>> Tom
>>
>>

Stus-List Re: C&C 35 MK I Keel Bolts

[Wyatt via CnC-List]

That’s too much torque? I’ve seen C&C specs based on nut size, and for my
36-1 it was around 150 ft-lb

On Tue, Sep 13, 2022 at 10:46 AM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I should have driven down and got it. 350 pounds is a LOT. My arms are
> still sore!
>
> FYI – what you think is really tight with a normal extension is about 150
> pounds, not 350. I have about 4 feet total to get to 350.
>
> If anyone needs to borrow the torque meter let me know.
>
>
>
>
>
> Joe Della Barba
>
> Coquina C&C 35 MK I
>
> Kent Island MD USA
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Josh via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Monday, September 5, 2022 4:18 PM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Josh 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: C&C 35 MK I Keel Bolts
>
>
>
> You can come borrow my torque multiplier.
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n6B0IPKQERc
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
> Sep 5, 2022 14:09:28 Joe Della Barba via CnC-List :
>
> Those sizes are correct – thanks!
>
> I don’t have a torque wrench that big, so I have them “tight”. I just
> ordered this thing, so I can set them exactly:
>
>
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009GLITFW?psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&ref_=chk_typ_imgToDp
>
> Joe Della Barba
>
> Coquina C&C 35 MK I
>
> Kent Island MD USA
>
> *From:* Thomas Delaney via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Sunday, August 28, 2022 10:08 AM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* j...@dellabarba.com; Thomas Delaney 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: C&C 35 MK I Keel Bolts
>
> Hi Joe,
>
> I believe it is 1 1/8" for the front-most nut and 1 1/2" for the rest.
>
> Best,
>
> Tom
>
>

Stus-List Re: Partially furling the genoa when racing

[Wyatt via CnC-List]

Not good for the sail...reinforcement is around the edges (leech/luff/foot)
not in the middle.

On Mon, Sep 12, 2022 at 10:30 AM Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> FWIW My first move is to reef the main upwind, even with a foam luff
> gennie.
>
> Joel
>
> On Mon, Sep 12, 2022 at 10:25 AM Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi David
>>
>>
>>
>> First I find it unusual to hear of a J27 with a furling genoa.  We had a
>> J27 that came that way and it was the only one I knew of.  Our furling
>> genoa was awful to use when racing anyway so we would  ignore the furler
>> and tack our racing sails to the deck below the drum.  Eventually sold the
>> luff foil, furling system and the furling genoa and replaced with a tuff
>> luff
>>
>>
>>
>> J27 upwind if too windy for 150 should use a blade as it is much faster.
>> Downwind most 27s fly a spinnaker anyway.
>>
>>
>>
>> On our 33 we will sometimes be overpowered upwind flying our non furling
>> 140 or 155 genoas for the added boost downwind if racing non spin.  If it
>> is too windy for our 140 we drop to our 103%% head sail.
>>
>>
>>
>> Your genoa would have to be designed and built to sail partially furled
>> for it to have any sort of performance up wind.  I know some have foam in
>> the luff area for this.  Regardless I would think the loss of upwind
>> performance would be a pretty nasty price to pay for more horsepower down
>> wind …
>>
>>
>>
>> Those are my thoughts
>>
>>
>>
>> Regards
>>
>>
>>
>> Mike Hoyt
>>
>> Persistence
>>
>> Halifax, NS
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* David Knecht via CnC-List 
>> *Sent:* September 12, 2022 11:12 AM
>> *To:* CnC CnC discussion list 
>> *Cc:* David Knecht 
>> *Subject:* Stus-List Partially furling the genoa when racing
>>
>>
>>
>> I was talking to the skipper of a J27 who nearly always wins our PHRF
>> class and he was telling me that while he wins a lot, he struggles in
>> heavier air.  He said he had recently started partially roller furling his
>> large genoa for upwind legs and then unfurling downwind when the wind was
>> strong enough to overpower him.  I have never considered doing that and my
>> larger genoa does not have “reef points” .  What are the groups thoughts on
>> the value/feasibility of this?   Any reason it would be bad for the sail?
>> It certainly would be easier than putting on my smaller sail when winds are
>> questionable.  I worry about not only sail shape, but when partially
>> furled, the furler and genoa sheet are fighting each other, which might not
>> be a good thing for the furler.  Dave
>>
>>
>>
>> S/V Aries
>>
>> 1990 C&C 34+
>>
>> New London, CT
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Joel
>
>

Stus-List Re: Sea Foam

[Wyatt via CnC-List]

Blue is oil

On Mon, Jul 18, 2022 at 12:08 PM Neil Andersen via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> White smoke is steam from overheating.  Blueish smoke is unburned fuel I
> was always told
>
> Neil Andersen, W3NEA
> Rock Hall, MD 21661
> 484-354-8800
> --
> *From:* Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Monday, July 18, 2022 10:29:28 AM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Doug Mountjoy 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Sea Foam
>
> Bill, the white smoke is in burned fuel. If it is only at idle when the
> engine is cool..I wouldn't worry about it. My yanmar smokes when cold. It
> is just the nature of the beast. I talked to a Yanmar mechanic and he said,
> as long as it is only when cold it ok. I was going to replace the injectors
> and high pressure pump. Until I heard that.
>
> Doug Mountjoy
> C&C Landfall 39
> Sabré 34
>
> On Mon, Jul 18, 2022, 07:11 Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Wondering what you are trying to achieve, as I was just about to start a
> discussion on white smoke. I am thinking that has more to do with unburnt
> diesel. Was thinking about new injectors, but maybe I will try some of this
> Motor magic, and then do the injectors. It doesn't seem to be burning oil,
> as it is clean as a whistle, and not using any.
> I am already using FPPF 8+ Cetane Improver, and Lubricity Plus Fuel Power.
> And of course BioBor.
> If none of this works, I will try spraying water/Soap into the Turbo as
> the Manual suggests for carbon.
>
> Bill Coleman
> Entrada Erie PA
>
> On Mon, Jul 18, 2022 at 1:24 AM Jim Watts via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Every time. Also in the dinghy motor gas, mower gas, snowblower gas...
>
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C&C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
>
>
> On Thu, 7 Jul 2022 at 05:59, Wade Glew via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Does anyone put Sea Foam in their Diesel fuel?
>
> Wade Glew
> Oh Boy, 33 MK II
> Lake of the Woods
>
>

Stus-List Re: Engine not turning over

[Wyatt via CnC-List]

Check your grounds...

On Thu, Jul 7, 2022 at 9:28 AM Chris Riedinger via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Sounds like the start button or perhaps neutral safety -did you jiggle the
> shifter?
>
>
>
> The stop knob wouldn't prevent the motor from turning over, but good on
> you for honesty
>
>
>
>
> On Thu, Jul 7, 2022, 6:08 AM David Knecht via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Last night, out of the blue, my engine would not turn over after a race.
>> Nothing at all when I push the start button.  I ran the engine before the
>> race and all was fine and have had no issues at all this year.
>> Fortunately, I was able to sail the short distance to the mooring without a
>> problem.  I will be going out to the boat later to try to fix the problem
>> and wanted to see if anyone had thoughts on the problem from personal
>> experience.
>>
>> Plenty of power- batteries fully charged.  I tried bridging the two
>> batteries just to be sure and still nothing happens.
>> Key switch on I can hear the fuel pump ticking over.
>>  I measured 12V across the start button poles, which goes to zero when
>> pressed and my recollection is that is normal the way it is wired with the
>> glow plug button.  I have not yet measured at the starter, as that is a
>> real PITA to get to.
>>
>> Everything had been working fine up until that incident.  The only thing
>> that happened during the race, (and I don’t think relevant) is that the
>> genoa sheet got wrapped around the engine stop pull knob at one point.  I
>> checked and the cable and stop look fine, and the engine should still turn
>> over even if it were pulled, is my understanding.  It just should not
>> start.
>>
>> So I am thinking either engine ground wire or starter and plan to clean
>> both and try again.  Any thoughts welcome.  Thanks- Dave
>>
>> S/V Aries
>> 1990 C&C 34+
>> New London, CT
>>
>>
>>

Stus-List Re: 36-1 Stuffing Box Access

[Wyatt via CnC-List]

I have the exact same boat, same year too...to adjust it I need to crawl in
the lazarette while another person reaches through the oil filter access
panel...we each turn a pair of pliers...would be tricky to re-pack but my
guess is lazarette. Good luck!

On Mon, Apr 25, 2022 at 12:18 PM John McCrea via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello,
>
>
>
> I need to repack my stuffing box on Talisman and the access on the 36-1 is
> really tight. The fuel tank is right on top of the shaft and side access is
> not much better. Any advice or input is welcomed! Thanks.
>
>
>
>
>
> John McCrea
>
> Talisman
>
> 1979 36-1
>
> Mystic, CT
>

Stus-List Long shot: replacement C&C 36-1 anchor locker hatch/cover

[Wyatt via CnC-List]

C&C custom logoed kitchen/galley cutting boards are now available at:
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards/index.htm

Hi all, so the hinges on my anchor locker failed in a rough sea state and I
lost it unfortunately (1979 C&C 36-1)…anyone have a lead on where I could
find a replacement? Otherwise looking at crafting one out of marine plywood
and fiberglass.

Thanks!
Wyatt

Stus-List Selling a FL vessel in Bahamas

[Wyatt via CnC-List]

Hi there, does anyone have experience with selling a vessel in the Bahamas?
I have a 1979 C&C36 that is registered/titled in Florida, and am hoping to
do a one-way trip, ending in Georgetown, Exumas (selling the vessel and
flying out of there). Would I need to register the vessel in the Bahamas?
Would I even be able to? Has anyone heard of a similar experience?

Thank you for your time, Wyatt
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Sacrificial anodes

[Wyatt via CnC-List]

Some very useful info re: bonding systems here:

https://www.reddit.com/r/sailing/comments/onkot6/can_someone_explain_bonding_systems/

On Fri, Nov 19, 2021 at 6:11 PM David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Same bottom paint (Vivid) through all the relevant years.  Dave
>
>
> On Nov 19, 2021, at 6:05 PM, Donald Kern via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Dave,
>
> Did you change the bottom paint ?
> Many years ago I had the eating the anodes problem and what I determined
> was the bottom paint was conductive and was setting up hull surface loops
> thru the paint.  Further I found that all my bronze overboards had
> connecting ground wire even though the piping was all plastic/pvc.  I
> removed all the overboard ground wires and changed to Int'l CSC bottom
> paint.  I now use a single new doughnut shaft anode every year and it is
> approx 30-40% sacrificed at the end of the sailing season.
>
> Don Kern
> *Fireball,* C&C35 Mk2
> Bristol, RI
>
>
> On 11/19/2021 5:11 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Some may remember a Stump the Chumps post I made back in 2015.  At that
> time, I had pulled the boat for the season and found that two of my three
> anodes were gone, and the third barely present, which was something that
> had never happened before.  They were previously in such good shape that I
> had to decide whether to reuse them the next season or not.  We decided
> that Joe deserved a prize for suggesting the idea that stray current in a
> marina I stayed at for several days had eaten the anodes.  I am afraid I am
> going to have to recall the bottle of Rum that I never gave Joe.
>
> That year seemed an anomaly and every year since then, the anodes have
> been in pretty good shape at the end of the season so I presumed Joe was
> right and the problem was gone.  Aries was hauled yesterday, so I went down
> to winterize and cover today.  To my surprise, the situation was much like
> 2015: the prop anode was completely gone and one of the two shaft anodes
> was gone.  The other was nearly completely consumed with just a bit of
> metal hanging on.  What eliminates the stray current hypothesis is that I
> never plugged into shore power at any time this season.  I don’t really
> understand stray currents, but I thought that if you don’t plug into shore
> power, you are not going to have this problem.  Is that correct and if so,
> any new hypotheses?   Nothing electrical on the boat has changed over the
> last 3 years, so it is not some new wiring that I have done.   Dave
>
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
>
> Dr. David Knecht
> Professor of Molecular and Cell Biology
> University of Connecticut
> 91 N. Eagleville Rd.
> Storrs, CT 06269-3125
>
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Stuffing Box

[Wyatt via CnC-List]

Ooh interesting, care to say why you want to switch back to traditional?

Thanks,
Wyatt
1979 C&C36-1

On Mon, Jul 12, 2021 at 8:42 PM Stephen Thorne via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Folks my 1990 34+ has the PSS shaft seal system.  I want to swap it out
> for a traditional stuffing box and am looking for advise on which stuffing
> box manufacturers to look into.  My prop shaft is 1 &1/8” which may be a
> challenge finding a suitable match but hopefully not a big deal.
>
> Thank you
>
> Stephen Thorne
> 34+ Deja Vu’
> 770.722.2848
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu