Re: Stus-List Antifouling Paint

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

Rob,
Painting over one kind of paint with another is quite different 
from what you originally proposed, which was to mix them all together in a 
can first. I think that is a bad idea unless you are certain that the paints 
all have essentially the same chemistry in their drying process. It might 
work, but why not play it safer, and just use one can until it runs out, and 
then the next, and so on.



Steve Thomas
C MKIII
Port Stanley, ON

C
Merritt Island, FL


- Original Message - 
From: "robert via CnC-List" 

To: 
Cc: "robert" 
Sent: Wednesday, November 18, 2015 12:47
Subject: Stus-List Antifouling Paint



Mike:

I am not so sure I would trust them. years ago, I bought a Kirby 25 
with VC 17...I wanted to put Micron CSC on the bottom but I did not 
want to remove the VC17...I will never remove antifouling paint again.


I asked Interlux tech support if I could put the CSC over the VC 
17."absolutely not was Interlux's answer.the CSC will simply peel 
off and provide no antifouling protection.you must remove the VC 17".


I gave it a wet sanding with 320 grit paper and applied the Micron CSC 
over it..absolutely no problem for the 7 years we raced the boat. 
John Roy and Paul Gallant remarked how nice the bottom of the Kirby 
was..John even felt the bottom had been 'long sanded' at some point 
before I bought the boat.


I painted the entire inside of the Kirby with Brightside..Interlux 
told me it would peel if I didn't prime first..no primer and one part 
Brightside worked finenever peeled.


Maybe I just answered my own question..what possible harm could it do!

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.



On 2015-11-18 11:46 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:

Contact interlux tech support to ask this question.  www.yachtpaint.com

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert 
via CnC-List

Sent: Wednesday, November 18, 2015 11:40 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert
Subject: Stus-List Antifouling Paint

I have 3 different kinds of antifouling paint (Micron 66, Micron CSC and 
another ablative with 43% copper ) ..approx. a litre or quart of 
each.


Would it be alright to dump all of it into one one gallon can and mix it
all together.   I realize they might have different individual
effectiveness but do I really care if I don't have to buy a gallon of 
paint in the Spring.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.




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Re: Stus-List Antifouling Paint

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Contact interlux tech support to ask this question.  www.yachtpaint.com

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, November 18, 2015 11:40 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert
Subject: Stus-List Antifouling Paint

I have 3 different kinds of antifouling paint (Micron 66, Micron CSC and 
another ablative with 43% copper ) ..approx. a litre or quart of each.

Would it be alright to dump all of it into one one gallon can and mix it 
all together.   I realize they might have different individual 
effectiveness but do I really care if I don't have to buy a gallon of paint in 
the Spring.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.



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Re: Stus-List Antifouling Paint - update

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Persistence is at same club as Bob's Azura.  We also used Micron 66 on Bob's 
recommendation as being a paint that works very well in that particular area.

Today Persistence was hauled and I immediately checked the bottom.  There was 
ZERO Growth.  No hair, no barnacles and nothing that adhweres to hull.  There 
was a very thin layer of slime for approx. 1.5 feet from waterline that was 
barely noticeable and rubs off with your finger.  This slime was not adhering 
to the hull

Contrast this to Micron CSC that I would pressure wash beginning of September 
and then have the boat in water in same area from Sept 9 - Oct 26 two and three 
years ago on our J27 Nut Case.  There would be hair at the waterline and 
coating the rudder.  Not a little hair rather looking like someone needed a 
shave hair .. long and advanced.  Last year with Vivid on Persistence haul for 
wash and transducers July 19 and haul for work Sept 11 and bottom was green 
with growth.  VC Offshore in the past also not great on the J27 in this area

Persistence was scrubbed and wet sanded April 25 and the Micron 66 applied 
April 26 at bare minimum temperatures with daytime highs approx. 14 degrees and 
overnight much cooler.  The boat was not scrubbed in water or out since launch 
April 30.

I am now sold on this paint despite it being a PITA for me to get it

Mike
Persistence
1987 Frers 33
Halifax

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, October 26, 2015 10:46 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert
Subject: Stus-List Antifouling Paint

Here's an observation on the barnacle growth on my boat this year.there 
were barnacles on the hull (maybe 200, I didn't actually count) but none on the 
rudder.

When I painted last Spring in April, the temp was cool (10C at the most) so I 
diluted the Micron 66, maybe 10%, so it would spread easily.the hull got 1 
coat but the rudder got 2 or 3 coats.

I may have reduced the effectiveness of the Micron 66 by diluting it too 
much.I won't dilute the paint next yearwill wait for a warm enough day 
to apply without diluting..FYI

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.
On 2015-10-25 8:33 PM, Graham Collins via CnC-List wrote:
Boat came out on Friday.  :-(

On the plus side once again the prayer meetings worked, not much growth on my 
boat (and lots on Bob's boat!).  This was my third season on a coat of Micron 
CSC, a few barnacles but nothing significant.  There is a J29 at the club that 
has VC Offshore on it, apparently it sat 2 months unused, and man that thing 
was a barnacle festival!  End to end.


Graham Collins

Secret Plans

C 35-III #11


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Re: Stus-List antifouling

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

May have to investigate home brew additives.  (Or not wink wink)

Brent
27-5
Lake Winnipeg. 

Sent from my iPhone

 On Mar 20, 2015, at 3:38 AM, Chuck S cscheaf...@comcast.net wrote:
 
 Hi Brent,
 
 Had similar experience w VC-Offshore in salt water.  Used it for 4 years.  
 Very slippery and required if you want to sail to PHRF rating.  Miss one tack 
 and throw that away.  I think a grey auto primer would work as well.  Had to 
 scrub the bottom before each race (mfr design criteria) and minimum every two 
 weeks or the buildup would require major efforts to remove. Micron 66 worked 
 so much better, I tell everyone about it.   Almost zero buildup without 
 diving/scrubbing.  
 
 But of course Interlux does not recommend Micron 66 for brackish water, where 
 I keep the boat now?   Gotta find a new paint for racing Chesapeake Bay, so 
 I'm watching the list comments.
 
 
 Chuck
 Resolute
 1990 CC 34R
 Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
 
 From: Brent Driedger via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 To: Jim Watts paradigmat...@gmail.com, cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Sent: Thursday, March 19, 2015 12:59:41 AM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Discontinuation of significant antifouling chemical
 
 I thought so. That explains why VC17 is like plant food in Lake Winnipeg. I 
 have to de-slime the bottom 3 times per season. At least the boat looks 
 really pretty going in each spring!
 
 Brent Driedger
 27-5
 Lake Winnipeg 
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 
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Re: Stus-List antifouling

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Our best antifouling is called snow.  It keeps the boats out of the water and 
therefore not fouled

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Brent 
Driedger via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, March 20, 2015 8:40 AM
To: Chuck S
Cc: CNC boat owners, cnc-list
Subject: Re: Stus-List antifouling

May have to investigate home brew additives.  (Or not wink wink)

Brent
27-5
Lake Winnipeg.

Sent from my iPhone

On Mar 20, 2015, at 3:38 AM, Chuck S 
cscheaf...@comcast.netmailto:cscheaf...@comcast.net wrote:
Hi Brent,

Had similar experience w VC-Offshore in salt water.  Used it for 4 years.  Very 
slippery and required if you want to sail to PHRF rating.  Miss one tack and 
throw that away.  I think a grey auto primer would work as well.  Had to scrub 
the bottom before each race (mfr design criteria) and minimum every two weeks 
or the buildup would require major efforts to remove. Micron 66 worked so much 
better, I tell everyone about it.   Almost zero buildup without 
diving/scrubbing.

But of course Interlux does not recommend Micron 66 for brackish water, where I 
keep the boat now?   Gotta find a new paint for racing Chesapeake Bay, so I'm 
watching the list comments.


Chuck
Resolute
1990 CC 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md


From: Brent Driedger via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
To: Jim Watts paradigmat...@gmail.commailto:paradigmat...@gmail.com, 
cnc-list@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Thursday, March 19, 2015 12:59:41 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Discontinuation of significant antifouling chemical

I thought so. That explains why VC17 is like plant food in Lake Winnipeg. I 
have to de-slime the bottom 3 times per season. At least the boat looks really 
pretty going in each spring!

Brent Driedger
27-5
Lake Winnipeg

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List Antifouling removal - chemical strippers

[Rick Brass]

Sorry for the late reply, but I've been traveling this month.

I use a pressure washer to remove the ablative paint on both of my boats
when I do the bottoms. I use Pettit ACP60 of Ultima SR, but used to use
Micron.

Your yard probably turns the pressure washer down to under 1800psi or so
when they wash the bottom. Pressures of 2500 to 3500psi will strip the
ablative paint off the bottom down to the hard paint (Trinidad PRO, in my
case) used for a primer/signal coat. 

Be careful of too much pressure held too close to the surface being
stripped. A friend got a bit inattentive or over enthusiastic, used a
3600psi washer,  and actually blew some of the gelcoat off of his Columbia
36. But you really have to be aggressive to damage the gelcoat.


Rick Brass
Imzadi -1976 CC 38 mk1
la Belle Aurore -1975 CC 25 mk1
Washington, NC



-Original Message-


A pressure washer will not remove an ablative paint.  When our boat is
hauled every Fall, the bottom is pressure washed by the yard staff and while
it might remove a small amount of the paint, it will not remove it so as the
gelcoat is showing.

Bob Abbott
AZURA
CC 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.




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Re: Stus-List Antifouling removal - chemical strippers

[Indigo]

Re chemical peelers. Several winters ago I started to try sanding off multiple 
years of ablative and goodness knows what else. After countless hours and lots 
of sanding disks I gave up and switched to Peel Away. I have to say it worked 
really well but nasty to deal with when removing. I also made the mistake of 
not keeping it moist. I took off too large an area of the plastic sheeting and 
ran out of daylight before removing all the paint / paste. The peelaway then 
set up like concrete!

I would definitely go the chemical route again. My gel coat was like new. 
Unlike the boats in the yard that had been soda stripped. Their gel coats felt 
slightly rough and invariably small traces of paint were left

Jonathan
Indigo - Southport
Sadly only 20 days before haul-out

On Sep 6, 2012, at 12:59, Bob Hickson bobhick...@rogers.com wrote:

 Thanks to everyone for your feedback / suggestions.
  
 I do not think that a pressure wash (high pressure) will work well on 
 antifouling without damage to the gel coat.
 My boats have always been pressure washed in the fall by the yard after haul 
 out and this certainly does not remove the bottom paint. Higher pressure 
 might work but at the expense of the gel coat.
  
 I power sanded the bottom of my previous boat (Viking 28) and I am not 
 anxious to repeat this experience on the 29. I had to sand the previous boat 
 in mid winter because it had VC Tar under the paint and this cannot be sanded 
 unless it is cold (it smears and blinds the sandpaper in warmer weather).
  
 I have a quote of $1,800 to soda blast the 29-2  seems pretty high.
  
 Have a second quote for $600 from a contactor that is going to use a wet sand 
 blasting approach with very fine sand. I am a bit leary of this approach 
 since I hear that you can do extensive damage to the gel coat / fiberglass by 
 using sand. The sand is reportedly too aggressive.
  
 I am waiting for a quote from a contractor that can do dry ice blasting ... 
 this sounds like a great approach since there is no blasting media to clean 
 up. Will let you know what his price is.
  
 So far nobody has said very much about chemical strippers.
 I would like to know a bit more before I make a decision.
  
 The Franmar website has an interesting video (second link) about using their 
 product “Soy Strip”
  
 http://www.franmar.com/industries/marine-boating.html
 http://www.franmar.com/videos/43-product-videos-bottom-boat-antifouling-paint-removal-soy-gel.html
  
 Was hoping for some firsthand feedback on this product or other chemical 
 strippers.
  
 Looks like a choice between dry ice blasting or Soy Strip at this point
  
  
 Best regards,
 Bob Hickson, P. Eng, RHI, CEA
 CC 29-2 Flying Colours
 (416) 919-2297
 bobhick...@rogers.com
  
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Re: Stus-List Antifouling removal - chemical strippers

[Indigo]

I would add . purchase GALLONS of cheap white vinegar. You will need this to
de-activate the goo when (not IF) it gets on your skin, and also to spray
the boat bottom to de-activate the chemicals before applying barrier coat!

 

Jonathan 

 

  _  

From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of Gary Nylander
Sent: Friday, September 07, 2012 10:58 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Antifouling removal - chemical strippers

 

Peel Away is what I used and fought with.

 

It works, but is very messy. From Jonathan's note and my experience, you
need two people to apply it and to remove it. It is messy - you must keep it
moist, and you need a bunch of different kinds of scrapers to match the
contours of your boat.

 

Cover the ground under the boat. Get help. Apply liberally. Cover thoroughly
with the plastic 'paper'. The tricky part is applying the goo, then putting
the paper up onto the bottom of the boat (upside down!) and making sure it
is completely covered. Let it sit the required amount. Remove with plastic
scrapers (get goo all over yourself in the process). Wear Tyvec. Then it
will work, the chemical is good and covering it up lets it do its work.

 

Don't work in 90 degree temperature - it sets too quickly.

 

Don't try this alone - Jonathan and I concur.

 

Gary

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Re: Stus-List Antifouling removal - chemical strippers

[dwight veinot]

Bob

 

I was not recommending you use high pressure water; just pointing out that
high pressure water can be used to strip paint in response to another lister
who said pressure washing would not do the job.which is true for most
household pressure washers that develop around 2000 psi and those powered by
small gas engines like the boat yards use.in fact high pressure water can be
used to cut steel.  I saw it used to cut through 1 inch thick submarine
steel all the way around the circumference.and when stripping paint the
pressure can be tuned to be gentle on underlying substrate but still remove
the antifouling paint.but with quite a bit of water run off which usually is
an environmental problem in most yards nowadays.

 

I used methylene chloride based gel paint stripper to do my CC 27 some
years ago.  The secret is to have a very good paint scraper to use after the
methylene chloride stripper sits on the paint for about 15 minutes and
causes the paint to bubble.you need a scraper that will stay sharp and the
cheap ones don't so if you use them you spend a lot of time sharpening or
changing blades.Lee Valley Tools have some quality paint scarpers for about
$30-40.  After removing just about everything with the stripper and scraper
I went over the bottom with a belt sander 60-100 grit and then wiped clean
with solvent.  

 

Basically my feeling is there is no easy way if you do it yourself.  It is
much easier to hire someone else and stand back and watch.even if you just
hire some one to use your quality paint scraper.

 

Dwight Veinot

CC 35 MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

  _  

From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of Bob Hickson
Sent: September 6, 2012 1:59 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Antifouling removal - chemical strippers

 

Thanks to everyone for your feedback / suggestions.

 

I do not think that a pressure wash (high pressure) will work well on
antifouling without damage to the gel coat.

My boats have always been pressure washed in the fall by the yard after haul
out and this certainly does not remove the bottom paint. Higher pressure
might work but at the expense of the gel coat.

 

I power sanded the bottom of my previous boat (Viking 28) and I am not
anxious to repeat this experience on the 29. I had to sand the previous boat
in mid winter because it had VC Tar under the paint and this cannot be
sanded unless it is cold (it smears and blinds the sandpaper in warmer
weather).

 

I have a quote of $1,800 to soda blast the 29-2  seems pretty high.

 

Have a second quote for $600 from a contactor that is going to use a wet
sand blasting approach with very fine sand. I am a bit leary of this
approach since I hear that you can do extensive damage to the gel coat /
fiberglass by using sand. The sand is reportedly too aggressive.

 

I am waiting for a quote from a contractor that can do dry ice blasting ...
this sounds like a great approach since there is no blasting media to clean
up. Will let you know what his price is.

 

So far nobody has said very much about chemical strippers.

I would like to know a bit more before I make a decision.

 

The Franmar website has an interesting video (second link) about using their
product Soy Strip

 

http://www.franmar.com/industries/marine-boating.html

http://www.franmar.com/videos/43-product-videos-bottom-boat-antifouling-pain
t-removal-soy-gel.html

 

Was hoping for some firsthand feedback on this product or other chemical
strippers.

 

Looks like a choice between dry ice blasting or Soy Strip at this point

 

 

Best regards,

Bob Hickson, P. Eng, RHI, CEA

CC 29-2 Flying Colours

(416) 919-2297

 mailto:bobhick...@rogers.com bobhick...@rogers.com

 

  _  

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Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.2197 / Virus Database: 2437/5252 - Release Date: 09/06/12

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Re: Stus-List Antifouling removal - chemical strippers

[schiller]

The last time that I stripped the bottom to the barrier coat I used my 
household pressure washer and a Turbo nozzle.  It removed the Micron 
CSC in a very well defined and complete fashion.  Very little post 
preparation was required before I put on the new Micron CSC.


Neil Schiller
1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7
(CC 35, Mark I)
Corsair
On the schedule for haul out before the water gets too low to make it up 
the river.


On 9/6/2012 1:36 PM, dwight veinot wrote:


Bob

I was not recommending you use high pressure water; just pointing out 
that high pressure water can be used to strip paint in response to 
another lister who said pressure washing would not do the job...which 
is true for most household pressure washers that develop around 2000 
psi and those powered by small gas engines like the boat yards 
use...in fact high pressure water can be used to cut steel.  I saw it 
used to cut through 1 inch thick submarine steel all the way around 
the circumference...and when stripping paint the pressure can be tuned 
to be gentle on underlying substrate but still remove the antifouling 
paint...but with quite a bit of water run off which usually is an 
environmental problem in most yards nowadays.


I used methylene chloride based gel paint stripper to do my CC 27 
some years ago.  The secret is to have a very good paint scraper to 
use after the methylene chloride stripper sits on the paint for about 
15 minutes and causes the paint to bubble...you need a scraper that 
will stay sharp and the cheap ones don't so if you use them you spend 
a lot of time sharpening or changing blades...Lee Valley Tools have 
some quality paint scarpers for about $30-40.  After removing just 
about everything with the stripper and scraper I went over the bottom 
with a belt sander 60-100 grit and then wiped clean with solvent.


Basically my feeling is there is no easy way if you do it yourself. 
 It is much easier to hire someone else and stand back and 
watch...even if you just hire some one to use your quality paint scraper.


Dwight Veinot

CC 35 MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS



*From:*cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Bob Hickson

*Sent:* September 6, 2012 1:59 PM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Subject:* Stus-List Antifouling removal - chemical strippers

Thanks to everyone for your feedback / suggestions.

I do not think that a pressure wash (high pressure) will work well on 
antifouling without damage to the gel coat.


My boats have always been pressure washed in the fall by the yard 
after haul out and this certainly does not remove the bottom paint. 
Higher pressure might work but at the expense of the gel coat.


I power sanded the bottom of my previous boat (Viking 28) and I am not 
anxious to repeat this experience on the 29. I had to sand the 
previous boat in mid winter because it had VC Tar under the paint and 
this cannot be sanded unless it is cold (it smears and blinds the 
sandpaper in warmer weather).


I have a quote of $1,800 to soda blast the 29-2  seems pretty high.

Have a second quote for $600 from a contactor that is going to use a 
wet sand blasting approach with very fine sand. I am a bit leary of 
this approach since I hear that you can do extensive damage to the gel 
coat / fiberglass by using sand. The sand is reportedly too aggressive.


I am waiting for a quote from a contractor that can do dry ice 
blasting ... this sounds like a great approach since there is no 
blasting media to clean up. Will let you know what his price is.


So far nobody has said very much about chemical strippers.

I would like to know a bit more before I make a decision.

The Franmar website has an interesting video (second link) about using 
their product Soy Strip


http://www.franmar.com/industries/marine-boating.html

http://www.franmar.com/videos/43-product-videos-bottom-boat-antifouling-paint-removal-soy-gel.html

Was hoping for some firsthand feedback on this product or other 
chemical strippers.


Looks like a choice between dry ice blasting or Soy Strip at this point

Best regards,

*Bob Hickson, P. Eng, RHI, CEA*

*/CC 29-2 Flying Colours/*

*(416) 919-2297*

*bobhick...@rogers.com mailto:bobhick...@rogers.com*



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Version: 2012.0.2197 / Virus Database: 2437/5252 - Release Date: 09/06/12



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Re: Stus-List Antifouling removal - chemical strippers

[dwight veinot]

Thanks Neil

I knew high pressure water would do the trick but I did not think a
household unit would give enough pressure.you must get close to 3000 psi
with yours and the turbo nozzle would help.still there is a lot of water run
off and maybe spray to nearby boats to consider

 

Dwight Veinot

CC 35 MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

  _  

From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of schiller
Sent: September 6, 2012 4:16 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Antifouling removal - chemical strippers

 

The last time that I stripped the bottom to the barrier coat I used my
household pressure washer and a Turbo nozzle.  It removed the Micron CSC
in a very well defined and complete fashion.  Very little post preparation
was required before I put on the new Micron CSC.

Neil Schiller
1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7
(CC 35, Mark I)
Corsair
On the schedule for haul out before the water gets too low to make it up the
river.

On 9/6/2012 1:36 PM, dwight veinot wrote:

Bob

 

I was not recommending you use high pressure water; just pointing out that
high pressure water can be used to strip paint in response to another lister
who said pressure washing would not do the job.which is true for most
household pressure washers that develop around 2000 psi and those powered by
small gas engines like the boat yards use.in fact high pressure water can be
used to cut steel.  I saw it used to cut through 1 inch thick submarine
steel all the way around the circumference.and when stripping paint the
pressure can be tuned to be gentle on underlying substrate but still remove
the antifouling paint.but with quite a bit of water run off which usually is
an environmental problem in most yards nowadays.

 

I used methylene chloride based gel paint stripper to do my CC 27 some
years ago.  The secret is to have a very good paint scraper to use after the
methylene chloride stripper sits on the paint for about 15 minutes and
causes the paint to bubble.you need a scraper that will stay sharp and the
cheap ones don't so if you use them you spend a lot of time sharpening or
changing blades.Lee Valley Tools have some quality paint scarpers for about
$30-40.  After removing just about everything with the stripper and scraper
I went over the bottom with a belt sander 60-100 grit and then wiped clean
with solvent.  

 

Basically my feeling is there is no easy way if you do it yourself.  It is
much easier to hire someone else and stand back and watch.even if you just
hire some one to use your quality paint scraper.

 

Dwight Veinot

CC 35 MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS


  _  


From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of Bob Hickson
Sent: September 6, 2012 1:59 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Antifouling removal - chemical strippers

 

Thanks to everyone for your feedback / suggestions.

 

I do not think that a pressure wash (high pressure) will work well on
antifouling without damage to the gel coat.

My boats have always been pressure washed in the fall by the yard after haul
out and this certainly does not remove the bottom paint. Higher pressure
might work but at the expense of the gel coat.

 

I power sanded the bottom of my previous boat (Viking 28) and I am not
anxious to repeat this experience on the 29. I had to sand the previous boat
in mid winter because it had VC Tar under the paint and this cannot be
sanded unless it is cold (it smears and blinds the sandpaper in warmer
weather).

 

I have a quote of $1,800 to soda blast the 29-2  seems pretty high.

 

Have a second quote for $600 from a contactor that is going to use a wet
sand blasting approach with very fine sand. I am a bit leary of this
approach since I hear that you can do extensive damage to the gel coat /
fiberglass by using sand. The sand is reportedly too aggressive.

 

I am waiting for a quote from a contractor that can do dry ice blasting ...
this sounds like a great approach since there is no blasting media to clean
up. Will let you know what his price is.

 

So far nobody has said very much about chemical strippers.

I would like to know a bit more before I make a decision.

 

The Franmar website has an interesting video (second link) about using their
product Soy Strip

 

http://www.franmar.com/industries/marine-boating.html

http://www.franmar.com/videos/43-product-videos-bottom-boat-antifouling-pain
t-removal-soy-gel.html

 

Was hoping for some firsthand feedback on this product or other chemical
strippers.

 

Looks like a choice between dry ice blasting or Soy Strip at this point

 

 

Best regards,

Bob Hickson, P. Eng, RHI, CEA

CC 29-2 Flying Colours

(416) 919-2297

 mailto:bobhick...@rogers.com bobhick...@rogers.com

 


  _  


No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
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Re: Stus-List Antifouling removal - chemical strippers

[Jake Brodersen]

Bob,

 

FWIW, I paid $1500 to have my 35-3 soda blasted.  Worth every penny!!!

 

Jake

 

 

Jake Brodersen

CC 35 Mk-III

Midnight Mistress

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of Bob Hickson
Sent: Thursday, September 06, 2012 12:59 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Antifouling removal - chemical strippers

 

Thanks to everyone for your feedback / suggestions.

 

I do not think that a pressure wash (high pressure) will work well on
antifouling without damage to the gel coat.

My boats have always been pressure washed in the fall by the yard after haul
out and this certainly does not remove the bottom paint. Higher pressure
might work but at the expense of the gel coat.

 

I power sanded the bottom of my previous boat (Viking 28) and I am not
anxious to repeat this experience on the 29. I had to sand the previous boat
in mid winter because it had VC Tar under the paint and this cannot be
sanded unless it is cold (it smears and blinds the sandpaper in warmer
weather).

 

I have a quote of $1,800 to soda blast the 29-2  seems pretty high.

 

Have a second quote for $600 from a contactor that is going to use a wet
sand blasting approach with very fine sand. I am a bit leary of this
approach since I hear that you can do extensive damage to the gel coat /
fiberglass by using sand. The sand is reportedly too aggressive.

 

I am waiting for a quote from a contractor that can do dry ice blasting ...
this sounds like a great approach since there is no blasting media to clean
up. Will let you know what his price is.

 

So far nobody has said very much about chemical strippers.

I would like to know a bit more before I make a decision.

 

The Franmar website has an interesting video (second link) about using their
product Soy Strip

 

http://www.franmar.com/industries/marine-boating.html

http://www.franmar.com/videos/43-product-videos-bottom-boat-antifouling-pain
t-removal-soy-gel.html

 

Was hoping for some firsthand feedback on this product or other chemical
strippers.

 

Looks like a choice between dry ice blasting or Soy Strip at this point

 

 

Best regards,

Bob Hickson, P. Eng, RHI, CEA

CC 29-2 Flying Colours

(416) 919-2297

 mailto:bobhick...@rogers.com bobhick...@rogers.com

 

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Re: Stus-List Antifouling removal - chemical strippers

[dreuge]

Hi Bob,

If it is ablative as stated, then you should be able to easily sand it off in 
short time.I did my own bottom jab last Fall, and one of my best 
investments was a good quality orbital sander.   I purchased a Dewalt D26453K 
on Amazon for $69.  Using 60 grit disks, I was able to sand down to the barrier 
coat on my 29 mk1 in about an afternoon.A good quality sander will have a 
means of collecting the dust.   The Dewalt comes with a dust bag and you can 
also connect it to a shop vac, but still at least  use a decent respirator 
mask.   


-
Paul E.
s/v Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

On Sep 5, 2012, at 9:10 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2012 18:58:22 -0400
 From: Bob Hickson bobhick...@rogers.com
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Stus-List Antifouling removal - chemical strippers
 Message-ID: 001001cd8af0$c92e20c0$5b8a6240$@com
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
 
 Facing the nasty task of stripping the bottom paint off the CC 29 mark 2
 that I bought this spring.
 It has 1 to 2 mm of blue ablative antifouling buildup that looks like the
 face of the moon (lots of craters)
 I was thinking of trying one of the chemical paint strippers.
 
 Practical Sailor rated the following strippers in order of their preference
 Franmar - Soy Strip (Best Choice)
 Back to Nature - Ready Strip (Budget buy)
 Back to Nature - Aqua Strip (Recoomended)
 Petite - Bio Blast (Recommended)
 
 Has anyone tried these products?
 Any comments / words of wisdom?
 How do these products compare to soda / lime / wet sand blasting?
 
 Once stripped, I am planning to do Interprotect Barrier Epoxy Coat and
 VC17M.
 Planning strip this fall, let it dry over the winter and do the epoxy in the
 spring
 
 Best regards,
 Bob Hickson, P. Eng, RHI, CEA
 CC 29-2 Flying Colours
 (416) 919-2297
 bobhick...@rogers.com
 

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Re: Stus-List Antifouling removal - chemical strippers

[Don Siddall]

Would a pressure washer work on a soft ablative paint? What psi would be 
needed?


Don

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Re: Stus-List Antifouling removal - chemical strippers

[dwight veinot]

Bob
I think it will remove the ablative paint if you use a higher pressure
unit...may take some adjusting to get it right without affecting the gel
coat if there is no epoxy barrier coat below the ablative paint...the one
the yard uses is not producing high enough pressure to remove paint and I
think they want it that way

Dwight Veinot
CC 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
-Original Message-
From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of Helen Abbott
Sent: September 5, 2012 12:32 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Antifouling removal - chemical strippers

Don:

A pressure washer will not remove an ablative paint.  When our boat is 
hauled every Fall, the bottom is pressure washed by the yard staff and 
while it might remove a small amount of the paint, it will not remove it 
so as the gelcoat is showing.

I have been using Micron CSC for the past 12 years, which is an ablative 
paint, and no pressure washing has ever removed it.  Put Micron 66 on 
this Spring and would expect the same result.

Bob Abbott
AZURA
CC 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.



On 2012/09/05 12:08 PM, Don Siddall wrote:
 Would a pressure washer work on a soft ablative paint? What psi would 
 be needed?

 Don

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Re: Stus-List Antifouling removal - chemical strippers

[Gary Johnson]

I would imagine the problem with power washing off the bottom paint is the 
amount of toxic runoff it would create and the difficulties in collecting it.
 
Gary
 


 From: Helen Abbott h...@eastlink.ca
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Wednesday, September 5, 2012 7:43 PM
Subject: Stus-List Antifouling removal - chemical strippers
  
Dwight:

I don't understand then why the marine contractors don't pressure wash 
the antifouling paints(s) off instead of the usual methods of sanding, 
scrapping, chemical peels, soda blasting, etc.  Don't know anyone around 
here that advertises pressure washing...do you?

Bob




On 2012/09/05 1:13 PM, dwight veinot wrote:
 Bob
 I think it will remove the ablative paint if you use a higher pressure
 unit...may take some adjusting to get it right without affecting the gel
 coat if there is no epoxy barrier coat below the ablative paint...the one
 the yard uses is not producing high enough pressure to remove paint and I
 think they want it that way

 Dwight Veinot
 CC 35 MKII, Alianna
 Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
 -Original Message-
 From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
 On Behalf Of Helen Abbott
 Sent: September 5, 2012 12:32 PM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Stus-List Antifouling removal - chemical strippers

 Don:

 A pressure washer will not remove an ablative paint.  When our boat is
 hauled every Fall, the bottom is pressure washed by the yard staff and
 while it might remove a small amount of the paint, it will not remove it
 so as the gelcoat is showing.

 I have been using Micron CSC for the past 12 years, which is an ablative
 paint, and no pressure washing has ever removed it.  Put Micron 66 on
 this Spring and would expect the same result.

 Bob Abbott
 AZURA
 CC 32 - 84
 Halifax, N.S.



 On 2012/09/05 12:08 PM, Don Siddall wrote:
 Would a pressure washer work on a soft ablative paint? What psi would
 be needed?

 Don

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