Re: Stus-List 3M VHB Tape
Fred, I'd suggest following the advice in the Sail Mag article http://www.sailmagazine.com/diy/maintenance/replacing-fixed-portlights/ And http://svjohannarose.blogspot.ca/search/label/NewPorts I did my windows this spring. It went pretty smoothly. I initially thought I'd want to spread the sealant on the cabin side before I attached the window - but couldn't see how I could keep the tape clean. In the end - using the "tape hinge" method to get the window in the right place and attached, then masking around the window and squeezing the caulk sealant in from the outside filled the gap easier than I expected. The biggest challenge I had (after getting the windows out) was cutting and shaping my windows. Putting them in and sealing was a long day - but not as fraught with challenges as most other boat projects I've faced. Mark CS 30 - Prosecco Deep Cove Nova Scotia There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval. - George Santayana On 2017-07-26 11:25 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List wrote: Hi, Fred — as long as the peel-off backing is still on both sides of the tape, you can cut it with a sharp scissors. I just did a square or angled cut as needed to the tape, then butted the next piece right up to the previous piece and kept going. If I understand your second question, when I had the acrylic cut for the new windows, I made sure I had at least 1/8” or more all the way around the window between the acrylic and the mortise into the cabin top; then the Dow 795 was “injected” into that gap under pressure so it squeezed around under the acrylic up to where the tape was. I also tended to hold the tape off the inside opening a bit, so it didn’t show so much from the inside. That made for less of a gap between the outside edge of the acrylic and the tape under it. And the VHB tape isn’t really permanent; it just sticks really well. If you get a putty knife into the small crack between the acrylic and the cabin top from inside the boat, you’ll eventually be able to work your way around the opening and get the thing loose. But it’ll take a while, and you’ll definitely wreck the old acrylic in the process. Hopefully, you’ll have many years before you’ll need to do this… — Fred Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI On Jul 26, 2017, at 9:16 AM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-Listwrote: Now that I have bought the 4991 tape some questions occur to me. Assuming I want the tape to just outline the window opening, can I cut the the tape to go around the corners without sticking to the scissors or sharp blade? The shape of the window opening has some rather quick, tight turns. The radius of one turn is no more than the radius of a dime. Another question is about the use of the Dow 795 silicon. When do I apply the silicon? Because the tape is 1/2" wide and the some of the window will extend more than 1/2" beyond the tape, if I put the silicon on before affixing the window I can see the silicon squeezing onto the tape as I apply pressure. If I put the silicon after sticking the window in place I can see difficulties in getting it into the area that is less than 1/8" thick. Another question is more of a long term problem. Assuming that I have my boat until the windows need replacing again, how will I be able to remove one if the tape is
Re: Stus-List 3M VHB Tape
Tape the cabin top and window lens (if the protective layer has been removed). "Push" the tip of the silicone gun or tube. Don't pull it. Keep a small bubble of silicone on the front of the tip. That will ensure you are forcing silicone into the gap. Once you've injected the silicone all the way around, use the back side of a plastic spoon to smooth the silicone into a concave shape. Keep the spoon moving smoothly. Don't start and stop. If you find a gap or two in the silicone, fill it quickly and run the spoon around again. Press the spoon fairly hard. It will remove the silicone immediately on either side of the gap. Let it cure a bit. Check the cure by touching the excess silicone on the tape not in the gap. When it is moderately firm but not completely cured, pull the tape making sure you pull away from the gap. The result should be a really nice "factory" look. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Wed, Jul 26, 2017 at 9:16 AM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Now that I have bought the 4991 tape some questions occur to me. > > Assuming I want the tape to just outline the window opening, can I cut the > the tape to go around the corners without sticking to the scissors or sharp > blade? The shape of the window opening has some rather quick, tight > turns. The radius of one turn is no more than the radius of a dime. > > Another question is about the use of the Dow 795 silicon. When do I apply > the silicon? Because the tape is 1/2" wide and the some of the window will > extend more than 1/2" beyond the tape, if I put the silicon on before > affixing the window I can see the silicon squeezing onto the tape as I > apply pressure. If I put the silicon after sticking the window in place I > can see difficulties in getting it into the area that is less than 1/8" > thick. > > Another question is more of a long term problem. Assuming that I have my > boat until the windows need replacing again, how will I be able to remove > one if the tape is "permanent". > > Any other suggestions about the use of the tape will be appreciated. > > Fred Hazzard > S/V Fury > C 44 > Portland, Or > > > ___ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you > wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated! > > ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List 3M VHB Tape
Hi, Fred — as long as the peel-off backing is still on both sides of the tape, you can cut it with a sharp scissors. I just did a square or angled cut as needed to the tape, then butted the next piece right up to the previous piece and kept going. If I understand your second question, when I had the acrylic cut for the new windows, I made sure I had at least 1/8” or more all the way around the window between the acrylic and the mortise into the cabin top; then the Dow 795 was “injected” into that gap under pressure so it squeezed around under the acrylic up to where the tape was. I also tended to hold the tape off the inside opening a bit, so it didn’t show so much from the inside. That made for less of a gap between the outside edge of the acrylic and the tape under it. And the VHB tape isn’t really permanent; it just sticks really well. If you get a putty knife into the small crack between the acrylic and the cabin top from inside the boat, you’ll eventually be able to work your way around the opening and get the thing loose. But it’ll take a while, and you’ll definitely wreck the old acrylic in the process. Hopefully, you’ll have many years before you’ll need to do this… — Fred Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI > On Jul 26, 2017, at 9:16 AM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List >wrote: > > Now that I have bought the 4991 tape some questions occur to me. > > Assuming I want the tape to just outline the window opening, can I cut the > the tape to go around the corners without sticking to the scissors or sharp > blade? The shape of the window opening has some rather quick, tight turns. > The radius of one turn is no more than the radius of a dime. > > Another question is about the use of the Dow 795 silicon. When do I apply > the silicon? Because the tape is 1/2" wide and the some of the window will > extend more than 1/2" beyond the tape, if I put the silicon on before > affixing the window I can see the silicon squeezing onto the tape as I apply > pressure. If I put the silicon after sticking the window in place I can see > difficulties in getting it into the area that is less than 1/8" thick. > > Another question is more of a long term problem. Assuming that I have my > boat until the windows need replacing again, how will I be able to remove > one if the tape is "permanent". > > Any other suggestions about the use of the tape will be appreciated. > > Fred Hazzard > S/V Fury > C 44 > Portland, Or ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Stus-List 3M VHB Tape
Now that I have bought the 4991 tape some questions occur to me. Assuming I want the tape to just outline the window opening, can I cut the the tape to go around the corners without sticking to the scissors or sharp blade? The shape of the window opening has some rather quick, tight turns. The radius of one turn is no more than the radius of a dime. Another question is about the use of the Dow 795 silicon. When do I apply the silicon? Because the tape is 1/2" wide and the some of the window will extend more than 1/2" beyond the tape, if I put the silicon on before affixing the window I can see the silicon squeezing onto the tape as I apply pressure. If I put the silicon after sticking the window in place I can see difficulties in getting it into the area that is less than 1/8" thick. Another question is more of a long term problem. Assuming that I have my boat until the windows need replacing again, how will I be able to remove one if the tape is "permanent". Any other suggestions about the use of the tape will be appreciated. Fred Hazzard S/V Fury C 44 Portland, Or ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!