Re: Stus-List C 29 - 2 Outhaul and Rudder update

2016-04-03 Thread Graham Collins via CnC-List 
Graham HAD his rudder apart, I hope not to do that again any time soon.  
2 years ago.


The attached pic has been resized to be tiny, it might slip through the 
server.  The rudder structure (frame) on the 35-3 has three sets of 
pieces headed aft, at the post they are about 1.5" apart, at the tail 
end of the rudder they are together and are welded to the vertical piece.


They were not glassed to the skins, in fact the skin popped off pretty 
cleanly.


I was glad I rebuilt mine, I found the welds (where the heat degrades 
the corrosion resistance of the stainless) had corroded pretty badly.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C 35-III #11

On 2016-04-03 8:35 PM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List wrote:
I think the tangs that make up the internal reinforcing structure are 
normally glassed to one of the skins so they aren't just bearing 
against foam.  Graham has his rudder apart, perhaps others on the list 
have too, so they could confirm (or correct/refute?) this?


Ken H.

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Re: Stus-List C 29 - 2 Outhaul and Rudder update

2016-04-03 Thread Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
My rudder rebuild pictures.

The tangs/tabs were only attached to one side of the rudder.  This was not
to the rebuilder's approval and was corrected during the rebuild.

I doubt that it is possible to dry the foam without completely removing one
of the sides.

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yVUdWUDNxVGFUcDA

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Apr 3, 2016 12:11 PM, "Bob Hickson via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Hi Bev,
> Is your mainsail closed footed (foot has a bolt rope that slides in a
> groove
> along the boom) or open footed (just a single slug at the clew)?
> If it has a close foot, there is little that you can do as the friction is
> mostly the bolt rope sliding in the groove in the boom.
> Mine is open footed with a single slug at the clew. I always spray the
> sheaves with dry film lube in the spring and this helps. However, I need
> assistance from the winch to adjust the outhaul even in fairly light
> breezes.
>
> Earlier, I posted about rudder issues on my 29-2.
> With further investigation, it appears that the previous owner had the
> rudder repaired previously. I have enlarged the existing holes to let the
> core dry out and allow me to probe inside the rudder with a thin wire. I
> have been able to confirm that the rudder is entirely filled with foam that
> appears to be in reasonable condition now that it is dry. There is no solid
> steel plate in the center of the rudder as most holes can be probed through
> to the opposite inside skin face with no problem. I will drill as few more
> strategically placed holes to try to locate the metal tangs inside the
> rudder. It is pretty obvious that the rudder skin was removed and replaced
> in the previous repair but the joint between the two halves of the rudder
> skin was simple filled with epoxy with no "bandage" of glass cloth / resin
> added over the joint.
> I will update again with further information.
> If I can locate the tangs and confirm that good foam surrounds them then I
> will fill the holes and cover the front 50% of the rudder with a layer of
> glass cloth / epoxy.
> If there are voids around the tangs then I will inject epoxy through holes
> to ensure that there is no movement of the rudder body in relation to the
> rudder post / tangs and then cover the front 50% of the rudder with glass
> cloth epoxy.
> I have already added a 3 inch wide strip of glass cloth / epoxy over the
> hair line crack in the leading edge.
> The above repair will add a second layer over the joint in the leading
> edge.
>
>
> Fair Winds,
>
> Bob Hickson, P. Eng.
> Frenchman's Bay Yacht Club,
> C and C 29 mark 2, Flying Colours,
> 416-919-2297
> bobhick...@rogers.com
>
>
>
>
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Sun, 3 Apr 2016 14:58:41 + (UTC)
> From: Bev Parslow 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Subject: Stus-List outhaul-29-2
> Message-ID:
> <1072703862.1950121.1459695521579.javamail.ya...@mail.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> I am washing, cleaning all the lines on the boat. The outhaul on the boom
> always seems to be stiff. Can we make it more user friendly? Smaller lines?
> Get rid of the wire??
> -- next part --
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL:
> <
> http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20160403/6f
> 889ca2/attachment-0001.html>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C 29 - 2 Outhaul and Rudder update

2016-04-03 Thread Ken Heaton via CnC-List 
I think the tangs that make up the internal reinforcing structure are
normally glassed to one of the skins so they aren't just bearing against
foam.  Graham has his rudder apart, perhaps others on the list have too, so
they could confirm (or correct/refute?) this?

Ken H.

On 3 April 2016 at 13:10, Bob Hickson via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Hi Bev,
> Is your mainsail closed footed (foot has a bolt rope that slides in a
> groove
> along the boom) or open footed (just a single slug at the clew)?
> If it has a close foot, there is little that you can do as the friction is
> mostly the bolt rope sliding in the groove in the boom.
> Mine is open footed with a single slug at the clew. I always spray the
> sheaves with dry film lube in the spring and this helps. However, I need
> assistance from the winch to adjust the outhaul even in fairly light
> breezes.
>
> Earlier, I posted about rudder issues on my 29-2.
> With further investigation, it appears that the previous owner had the
> rudder repaired previously. I have enlarged the existing holes to let the
> core dry out and allow me to probe inside the rudder with a thin wire. I
> have been able to confirm that the rudder is entirely filled with foam that
> appears to be in reasonable condition now that it is dry. There is no solid
> steel plate in the center of the rudder as most holes can be probed through
> to the opposite inside skin face with no problem. I will drill as few more
> strategically placed holes to try to locate the metal tangs inside the
> rudder. It is pretty obvious that the rudder skin was removed and replaced
> in the previous repair but the joint between the two halves of the rudder
> skin was simple filled with epoxy with no "bandage" of glass cloth / resin
> added over the joint.
> I will update again with further information.
> If I can locate the tangs and confirm that good foam surrounds them then I
> will fill the holes and cover the front 50% of the rudder with a layer of
> glass cloth / epoxy.
> If there are voids around the tangs then I will inject epoxy through holes
> to ensure that there is no movement of the rudder body in relation to the
> rudder post / tangs and then cover the front 50% of the rudder with glass
> cloth epoxy.
> I have already added a 3 inch wide strip of glass cloth / epoxy over the
> hair line crack in the leading edge.
> The above repair will add a second layer over the joint in the leading
> edge.
>
>
> Fair Winds,
>
> Bob Hickson, P. Eng.
> Frenchman's Bay Yacht Club,
> C and C 29 mark 2, Flying Colours,
> 416-919-2297
> bobhick...@rogers.com
>
>
>
>
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Sun, 3 Apr 2016 14:58:41 + (UTC)
> From: Bev Parslow 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Subject: Stus-List outhaul-29-2
> Message-ID:
> <1072703862.1950121.1459695521579.javamail.ya...@mail.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> I am washing, cleaning all the lines on the boat. The outhaul on the boom
> always seems to be stiff. Can we make it more user friendly? Smaller lines?
> Get rid of the wire??
> -- next part --
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL:
> <
> http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20160403/6f
> 889ca2/attachment-0001.html>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List C 29 - 2 Outhaul and Rudder update

2016-04-03 Thread Bob Hickson via CnC-List 
Hi Bev,
Is your mainsail closed footed (foot has a bolt rope that slides in a groove
along the boom) or open footed (just a single slug at the clew)?
If it has a close foot, there is little that you can do as the friction is
mostly the bolt rope sliding in the groove in the boom.
Mine is open footed with a single slug at the clew. I always spray the
sheaves with dry film lube in the spring and this helps. However, I need
assistance from the winch to adjust the outhaul even in fairly light
breezes.

Earlier, I posted about rudder issues on my 29-2.
With further investigation, it appears that the previous owner had the
rudder repaired previously. I have enlarged the existing holes to let the
core dry out and allow me to probe inside the rudder with a thin wire. I
have been able to confirm that the rudder is entirely filled with foam that
appears to be in reasonable condition now that it is dry. There is no solid
steel plate in the center of the rudder as most holes can be probed through
to the opposite inside skin face with no problem. I will drill as few more
strategically placed holes to try to locate the metal tangs inside the
rudder. It is pretty obvious that the rudder skin was removed and replaced
in the previous repair but the joint between the two halves of the rudder
skin was simple filled with epoxy with no "bandage" of glass cloth / resin
added over the joint.
I will update again with further information.
If I can locate the tangs and confirm that good foam surrounds them then I
will fill the holes and cover the front 50% of the rudder with a layer of
glass cloth / epoxy.
If there are voids around the tangs then I will inject epoxy through holes
to ensure that there is no movement of the rudder body in relation to the
rudder post / tangs and then cover the front 50% of the rudder with glass
cloth epoxy.
I have already added a 3 inch wide strip of glass cloth / epoxy over the
hair line crack in the leading edge.
The above repair will add a second layer over the joint in the leading edge.


Fair Winds,

Bob Hickson, P. Eng.
Frenchman's Bay Yacht Club,
C and C 29 mark 2, Flying Colours,
416-919-2297
bobhick...@rogers.com





Message: 4
Date: Sun, 3 Apr 2016 14:58:41 + (UTC)
From: Bev Parslow 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Stus-List outhaul-29-2
Message-ID:
<1072703862.1950121.1459695521579.javamail.ya...@mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

I am washing, cleaning all the lines on the boat. The outhaul on the boom
always seems to be stiff. Can we make it more user friendly? Smaller lines?
Get rid of the wire??
-- next part --
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL:



 

 



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This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!