Re: Stus-List CC 30 mast step yet again
Rich, I agree with you and others that have recommended the metal solution as being more permanent. However, I have two reasons for going back with wood: one is the hope to get the job finished this weekend since I haven't sailed all summer and metal fabrication would take a couple weeks longer and second, I do have some nagging doubt about why they used wood to begin with. Was wood used so there would be some amount of flex that metal didn't offer? I don't know enough about the mechanics of boat building and design so I default to the original. Ron Wild Cheri STL From: Knowles Rich r...@sailpower.ca To: Ronald B. Frerker rbfrer...@yahoo.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Wednesday, August 7, 2013 10:23 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List CC 30 mast step yet again Why not simply get some 3/8 aluminium welded up and glass it in? There is nothing permanent about any wood that is constantly exposed to water, especially fresh water. Rich Knowles Indigo. LF38 Halifax On 2013-08-07, at 12:12, Ronald B. Frerker rbfrer...@yahoo.com wrote: When I replaced the horizontal board 10-15yrs ago I used oak, but the original wood that broke on me was a dark wood. Does anyone know if it was teak or mahogany or what? I guess I could use oak again since it will have less opportunity to bend with the middle support Im putting in. Dennis, I like the idea of glassing the board instead of just epoxy paint, but won't that be difficult to measure the board thickness? How thick is a wrap of matt and epoxy? Ron Wild Cheri STL ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CC 30 mast step yet again
Ron, Are near a Grainger store? Get a piece of aluminum as a top plate. On Wed, Aug 7, 2013 at 11:23 AM, Knowles Rich r...@sailpower.ca wrote: Why not simply get some 3/8 aluminium welded up and glass it in? There is nothing permanent about any wood that is constantly exposed to water, especially fresh water. Rich Knowles Indigo. LF38 Halifax On 2013-08-07, at 12:12, Ronald B. Frerker rbfrer...@yahoo.com wrote: When I replaced the horizontal board 10-15yrs ago I used oak, but the original wood that broke on me was a dark wood. Does anyone know if it was teak or mahogany or what? I guess I could use oak again since it will have less opportunity to bend with the middle support Im putting in. Dennis, I like the idea of glassing the board instead of just epoxy paint, but won't that be difficult to measure the board thickness? How thick is a wrap of matt and epoxy? Ron Wild Cheri STL -- *From:* Ed Dooley edoo...@madriver.com *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Sent:* Tuesday, August 6, 2013 8:09 PM *Subject:* Re: Stus-List CC 30 mast step yet again White oak is, red oak, not so much. Ed *From: *Steve Thomas *sthom...@sympatico.ca* Maple is not very rot resistant, but oak is. There is a reason why oak was the material of choice for ship building. -Original Message- *From:* CnC-List [*mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.comcnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com *]*On Behalf Of *Ronald B. Frerker *Sent:* Tuesday, August 06, 2013 4:24 PM *To:* *cnc-list@cnc-list.com **Subject:* Stus-List CC 30 mast step yet again Got the engine running, so I could shift the mast over to work on the step. (BTW trouble was in the battery cables; corrosion inside the sheathing). I have only two supports and the oak plank I used bowed in the middle; probably because I didn't seal the edges well enough and water wicked in. It did last 10-15yrs though. So based on what a lister mentioned, I'm going to put in a third support in the middle. I can only buy 3/4 marine plywood by 4x8 sheet. So I'm going with solid wood for the support. The hardwoods dealer suggested mahogany, but it seems to porous for a bilge. A friend suggested ipe (epay or ironwood). Extremely dense and used in lock gates on the river. He claimed that some don't even treat it. I'm using maple (very dense) instead of the oak I used last time for the horizontal plank; oak apparently is known to bend readily with moisture, especially steam. I'm planning to coat all with a few coats of epoxy which I think Dennis suggested; the hardwoods dealer suggested marine poly. So, given I'm going with wood instead of a wood/metal combination, are there any suggestions about which wood and the coating? Ron Wild Cheri STL ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CC 30 mast step yet again
That is what I did - aluminum over wood. Also note I made the step wider so it no longer tries to bend the wood in the middle. The center 1/3 of my wood portion could rot away with no ill effect. Joe Della Barba From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson Sent: Thursday, August 08, 2013 10:22 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List CC 30 mast step yet again Ron, Are near a Grainger store? Get a piece of aluminum as a top plate. On Wed, Aug 7, 2013 at 11:23 AM, Knowles Rich r...@sailpower.camailto:r...@sailpower.ca wrote: Why not simply get some 3/8 aluminium welded up and glass it in? There is nothing permanent about any wood that is constantly exposed to water, especially fresh water. Rich Knowles Indigo. LF38 Halifax On 2013-08-07, at 12:12, Ronald B. Frerker rbfrer...@yahoo.commailto:rbfrer...@yahoo.com wrote: When I replaced the horizontal board 10-15yrs ago I used oak, but the original wood that broke on me was a dark wood. Does anyone know if it was teak or mahogany or what? I guess I could use oak again since it will have less opportunity to bend with the middle support Im putting in. Dennis, I like the idea of glassing the board instead of just epoxy paint, but won't that be difficult to measure the board thickness? How thick is a wrap of matt and epoxy? Ron Wild Cheri STL From: Ed Dooley edoo...@madriver.commailto:edoo...@madriver.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Tuesday, August 6, 2013 8:09 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List CC 30 mast step yet again White oak is, red oak, not so much. Ed From: Steve Thomas sthom...@sympatico.camailto:sthom...@sympatico.ca Maple is not very rot resistant, but oak is. There is a reason why oak was the material of choice for ship building. -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Ronald B. Frerker Sent: Tuesday, August 06, 2013 4:24 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List CC 30 mast step yet again Got the engine running, so I could shift the mast over to work on the step. (BTW trouble was in the battery cables; corrosion inside the sheathing). I have only two supports and the oak plank I used bowed in the middle; probably because I didn't seal the edges well enough and water wicked in. It did last 10-15yrs though. So based on what a lister mentioned, I'm going to put in a third support in the middle. I can only buy 3/4 marine plywood by 4x8 sheet. So I'm going with solid wood for the support. The hardwoods dealer suggested mahogany, but it seems to porous for a bilge. A friend suggested ipe (epay or ironwood). Extremely dense and used in lock gates on the river. He claimed that some don't even treat it. I'm using maple (very dense) instead of the oak I used last time for the horizontal plank; oak apparently is known to bend readily with moisture, especially steam. I'm planning to coat all with a few coats of epoxy which I think Dennis suggested; the hardwoods dealer suggested marine poly. So, given I'm going with wood instead of a wood/metal combination, are there any suggestions about which wood and the coating? Ron Wild Cheri STL ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.comhttp://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ CnC-List@cnc-list.commailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.commailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.commailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CC 30 mast step yet again
Ron, Each boat project challenges us with Get er done or Do it right. A mast step is structural, and crucial to the life of the mast, the rig, and the health and resale value of the sailboat. It's a job that can't be undone very easily. I've learned from rushing jobs that I'd rather delay launch, and brag about something done right. FWIW, many boats launched in May but haven't left the dock more than once since then. My advice: don't rush a mast step job, take your time, do your research, do it right, or hire a pro. Chuck Resolute 1990 CC 34R Atlantic City, NJ - Original Message - From: Ronald B. Frerker rbfrer...@yahoo.com To: Knowles Rich r...@sailpower.ca, cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Thursday, August 8, 2013 8:56:57 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List CC 30 mast step yet again Rich, I agree with you and others that have recommended the metal solution as being more permanent. However, I have two reasons for going back with wood: one is the hope to get the job finished this weekend since I haven't sailed all summer and metal fabrication would take a couple weeks longer and second, I do have some nagging doubt about why they used wood to begin with. Was wood used so there would be some amount of flex that metal didn't offer? I don't know enough about the mechanics of boat building and design so I default to the original. Ron Wild Cheri STL From: Knowles Rich r...@sailpower.ca To: Ronald B. Frerker rbfrer...@yahoo.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Wednesday, August 7, 2013 10:23 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List CC 30 mast step yet again Why not simply get some 3/8 aluminium welded up and glass it in? There is nothing permanent about any wood that is constantly exposed to water, especially fresh water. Rich Knowles Indigo. LF38 Halifax On 2013-08-07, at 12:12, Ronald B. Frerker rbfrer...@yahoo.com wrote: When I replaced the horizontal board 10-15yrs ago I used oak, but the original wood that broke on me was a dark wood. Does anyone know if it was teak or mahogany or what? I guess I could use oak again since it will have less opportunity to bend with the middle support Im putting in. Dennis, I like the idea of glassing the board instead of just epoxy paint, but won't that be difficult to measure the board thickness? How thick is a wrap of matt and epoxy? Ron Wild Cheri STL ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CC 30 mast step yet again
Re: CC 30 mast step yet againTrue. -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Ed Dooley Sent: Tuesday, August 06, 2013 9:09 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List CC 30 mast step yet again White oak is, red oak, not so much. Ed From: Steve Thomas sthom...@sympatico.ca Maple is not very rot resistant, but oak is. There is a reason why oak was the material of choice for ship building. -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Ronald B. Frerker Sent: Tuesday, August 06, 2013 4:24 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List CC 30 mast step yet again Got the engine running, so I could shift the mast over to work on the step. (BTW trouble was in the battery cables; corrosion inside the sheathing). I have only two supports and the oak plank I used bowed in the middle; probably because I didn't seal the edges well enough and water wicked in. It did last 10-15yrs though. So based on what a lister mentioned, I'm going to put in a third support in the middle. I can only buy 3/4 marine plywood by 4x8 sheet. So I'm going with solid wood for the support. The hardwoods dealer suggested mahogany, but it seems to porous for a bilge. A friend suggested ipe (epay or ironwood). Extremely dense and used in lock gates on the river. He claimed that some don't even treat it. I'm using maple (very dense) instead of the oak I used last time for the horizontal plank; oak apparently is known to bend readily with moisture, especially steam. I'm planning to coat all with a few coats of epoxy which I think Dennis suggested; the hardwoods dealer suggested marine poly. So, given I'm going with wood instead of a wood/metal combination, are there any suggestions about which wood and the coating? Ron Wild Cheri STL ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CC 30 mast step yet again
Mine is ¾ of marine ply epoxied to the boat and ½ aluminum plate on top of that. Joe Della Barba Coquina CC 35 MK I From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Steve Thomas Sent: Wednesday, August 07, 2013 7:06 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List CC 30 mast step yet again True. -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Ed Dooley Sent: Tuesday, August 06, 2013 9:09 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List CC 30 mast step yet again White oak is, red oak, not so much. Ed From: Steve Thomas sthom...@sympatico.camailto:sthom...@sympatico.ca Maple is not very rot resistant, but oak is. There is a reason why oak was the material of choice for ship building. -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Ronald B. Frerker Sent: Tuesday, August 06, 2013 4:24 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List CC 30 mast step yet again Got the engine running, so I could shift the mast over to work on the step. (BTW trouble was in the battery cables; corrosion inside the sheathing). I have only two supports and the oak plank I used bowed in the middle; probably because I didn't seal the edges well enough and water wicked in. It did last 10-15yrs though. So based on what a lister mentioned, I'm going to put in a third support in the middle. I can only buy 3/4 marine plywood by 4x8 sheet. So I'm going with solid wood for the support. The hardwoods dealer suggested mahogany, but it seems to porous for a bilge. A friend suggested ipe (epay or ironwood). Extremely dense and used in lock gates on the river. He claimed that some don't even treat it. I'm using maple (very dense) instead of the oak I used last time for the horizontal plank; oak apparently is known to bend readily with moisture, especially steam. I'm planning to coat all with a few coats of epoxy which I think Dennis suggested; the hardwoods dealer suggested marine poly. So, given I'm going with wood instead of a wood/metal combination, are there any suggestions about which wood and the coating? Ron Wild Cheri STL ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CC 30 mast step yet again
When I replaced the horizontal board 10-15yrs ago I used oak, but the original wood that broke on me was a dark wood. Does anyone know if it was teak or mahogany or what? I guess I could use oak again since it will have less opportunity to bend with the middle support Im putting in. Dennis, I like the idea of glassing the board instead of just epoxy paint, but won't that be difficult to measure the board thickness? How thick is a wrap of matt and epoxy? Ron Wild Cheri STL From: Ed Dooley edoo...@madriver.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Tuesday, August 6, 2013 8:09 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List CC 30 mast step yet again White oak is, red oak, not so much. Ed From: Steve Thomas sthom...@sympatico.ca Maple is not very rot resistant, but oak is. There is a reason why oak was the material of choice for ship building. -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Ronald B. Frerker Sent: Tuesday, August 06, 2013 4:24 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List CC 30 mast step yet again Got the engine running, so I could shift the mast over to work on the step. (BTW trouble was in the battery cables; corrosion inside the sheathing). I have only two supports and the oak plank I used bowed in the middle; probably because I didn't seal the edges well enough and water wicked in. It did last 10-15yrs though. So based on what a lister mentioned, I'm going to put in a third support in the middle. I can only buy 3/4 marine plywood by 4x8 sheet. So I'm going with solid wood for the support. The hardwoods dealer suggested mahogany, but it seems to porous for a bilge. A friend suggested ipe (epay or ironwood). Extremely dense and used in lock gates on the river. He claimed that some don't even treat it. I'm using maple (very dense) instead of the oak I used last time for the horizontal plank; oak apparently is known to bend readily with moisture, especially steam. I'm planning to coat all with a few coats of epoxy which I think Dennis suggested; the hardwoods dealer suggested marine poly. So, given I'm going with wood instead of a wood/metal combination, are there any suggestions about which wood and the coating? Ron Wild Cheri STL ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List CC 30 mast step yet again
Got the engine running, so I could shift the mast over to work on the step. (BTW trouble was in the battery cables; corrosion inside the sheathing). I have only two supports and the oak plank I used bowed in the middle; probably because I didn't seal the edges well enough and water wicked in. It did last 10-15yrs though. So based on what a lister mentioned, I'm going to put in a third support in the middle. I can only buy 3/4 marine plywood by 4x8 sheet. So I'm going with solid wood for the support. The hardwoods dealer suggested mahogany, but it seems to porous for a bilge. A friend suggested ipe (epay or ironwood). Extremely dense and used in lock gates on the river. He claimed that some don't even treat it. I'm using maple (very dense) instead of the oak I used last time for the horizontal plank; oak apparently is known to bend readily with moisture, especially steam. I'm planning to coat all with a few coats of epoxy which I think Dennis suggested; the hardwoods dealer suggested marine poly. So, given I'm going with wood instead of a wood/metal combination, are there any suggestions about which wood and the coating? Ron Wild Cheri STL ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CC 30 mast step yet again
I¹ve been able to buy many scrap pieces of marine plywood from our local boat shop. They¹ve always pro-rated it from a full sheet. Maple is a terrible choice around moisture. I know you plan to seal it, but the my 2 cents for the best choice would be use a good rot resistant wood, solid or ply, and seal that if you want the extra protection. Ipe is very rot resistant, and very tough on saws. We have a lot of white oak here, so it¹s used commonly. Ed From: Ronald B. Frerker rbfrer...@yahoo.com Got the engine running, so I could shift the mast over to work on the step. (BTW trouble was in the battery cables; corrosion inside the sheathing). I have only two supports and the oak plank I used bowed in the middle; probably because I didn't seal the edges well enough and water wicked in. It did last 10-15yrs though. So based on what a lister mentioned, I'm going to put in a third support in the middle. I can only buy 3/4 marine plywood by 4x8 sheet. So I'm going with solid wood for the support. The hardwoods dealer suggested mahogany, but it seems to porous for a bilge. A friend suggested ipe (epay or ironwood). Extremely dense and used in lock gates on the river. He claimed that some don't even treat it. I'm using maple (very dense) instead of the oak I used last time for the horizontal plank; oak apparently is known to bend readily with moisture, especially steam. I'm planning to coat all with a few coats of epoxy which I think Dennis suggested; the hardwoods dealer suggested marine poly. So, given I'm going with wood instead of a wood/metal combination, are there any suggestions about which wood and the coating? Ron Wild Cheri STL ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CC 30 mast step yet again
For the cross support, instead of wood, why not build two little dams and pour a two inch thick filler of epoxy. I added epoxy to the top of my supports instead of wood (the originals were soggy so I ground them down to good wood). A barrier on each side made the pour easy. How thick is your mast step plank? Mine is a two by eight by (about) 20 inches long. With a center support right under the mast that should last forever. Good luck Gary - Original Message - From: Ronald B. Frerker To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Tuesday, August 06, 2013 4:24 PM Subject: Stus-List CC 30 mast step yet again Got the engine running, so I could shift the mast over to work on the step. (BTW trouble was in the battery cables; corrosion inside the sheathing). I have only two supports and the oak plank I used bowed in the middle; probably because I didn't seal the edges well enough and water wicked in. It did last 10-15yrs though. So based on what a lister mentioned, I'm going to put in a third support in the middle. I can only buy 3/4 marine plywood by 4x8 sheet. So I'm going with solid wood for the support. The hardwoods dealer suggested mahogany, but it seems to porous for a bilge. A friend suggested ipe (epay or ironwood). Extremely dense and used in lock gates on the river. He claimed that some don't even treat it. I'm using maple (very dense) instead of the oak I used last time for the horizontal plank; oak apparently is known to bend readily with moisture, especially steam. I'm planning to coat all with a few coats of epoxy which I think Dennis suggested; the hardwoods dealer suggested marine poly. So, given I'm going with wood instead of a wood/metal combination, are there any suggestions about which wood and the coating? Ron Wild Cheri STL -- ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CC 30 mast step yet again
Maple is not very rot resistant, but oak is. There is a reason why oak was the material of choice for ship building. -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Ronald B. Frerker Sent: Tuesday, August 06, 2013 4:24 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List CC 30 mast step yet again Got the engine running, so I could shift the mast over to work on the step. (BTW trouble was in the battery cables; corrosion inside the sheathing). I have only two supports and the oak plank I used bowed in the middle; probably because I didn't seal the edges well enough and water wicked in. It did last 10-15yrs though. So based on what a lister mentioned, I'm going to put in a third support in the middle. I can only buy 3/4 marine plywood by 4x8 sheet. So I'm going with solid wood for the support. The hardwoods dealer suggested mahogany, but it seems to porous for a bilge. A friend suggested ipe (epay or ironwood). Extremely dense and used in lock gates on the river. He claimed that some don't even treat it. I'm using maple (very dense) instead of the oak I used last time for the horizontal plank; oak apparently is known to bend readily with moisture, especially steam. I'm planning to coat all with a few coats of epoxy which I think Dennis suggested; the hardwoods dealer suggested marine poly. So, given I'm going with wood instead of a wood/metal combination, are there any suggestions about which wood and the coating? Ron Wild Cheri STL ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List CC 30 mast step yet again
As always Google has the answer. http://workshopcompanion.com/KnowHow/Design/Nature_of_Wood/3_Wood_Strength/3_Wood_Strength.htm#strengthchart Mike S/V Persuasion CC 37 Keel/CB Long Sault From: Steve Thomas sthom...@sympatico.ca Date: 6 August, 2013 19:15:01 EDT To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List CC 30 mast step yet again Reply-To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Maple is not very rot resistant, but oak is. There is a reason why oak was the material of choice for ship building. -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Ronald B. Frerker Sent: Tuesday, August 06, 2013 4:24 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List CC 30 mast step yet again Got the engine running, so I could shift the mast over to work on the step. (BTW trouble was in the battery cables; corrosion inside the sheathing). I have only two supports and the oak plank I used bowed in the middle; probably because I didn't seal the edges well enough and water wicked in. It did last 10-15yrs though. So based on what a lister mentioned, I'm going to put in a third support in the middle. I can only buy 3/4 marine plywood by 4x8 sheet. So I'm going with solid wood for the support. The hardwoods dealer suggested mahogany, but it seems to porous for a bilge. A friend suggested ipe (epay or ironwood). Extremely dense and used in lock gates on the river. He claimed that some don't even treat it. I'm using maple (very dense) instead of the oak I used last time for the horizontal plank; oak apparently is known to bend readily with moisture, especially steam. I'm planning to coat all with a few coats of epoxy which I think Dennis suggested; the hardwoods dealer suggested marine poly. So, given I'm going with wood instead of a wood/metal combination, are there any suggestions about which wood and the coating? Ron Wild Cheri STL ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CC 30 mast step yet again
There's a reason boatbuilders switched from wood to fiberglass. Less deterioration over time and almost no maintenance. FWIW, I'd make the step out of starboard or fiberglass cloth and epoxy fillers. An aluminum bearing plate on top, would spread the load and be nice insurance against point loading the material. Chuck Resolute 1990 CC 34R Atlantic City, NJ - Original Message - From: Steve Thomas sthom...@sympatico.ca To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Tuesday, August 6, 2013 7:15:01 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List CC 30 mast step yet again Maple is not very rot resistant, but oak is. There is a reason why oak was the material of choice for ship building. -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ronald B. Frerker Sent: Tuesday, August 06, 2013 4:24 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List CC 30 mast step yet again Got the engine running, so I could shift the mast over to work on the step. (BTW trouble was in the battery cables; corrosion inside the sheathing). I have only two supports and the oak plank I used bowed in the middle; probably because I didn't seal the edges well enough and water wicked in. It did last 10-15yrs though. So based on what a lister mentioned, I'm going to put in a third support in the middle. I can only buy 3/4 marine plywood by 4x8 sheet. So I'm going with solid wood for the support. The hardwoods dealer suggested mahogany, but it seems to porous for a bilge. A friend suggested ipe (epay or ironwood). Extremely dense and used in lock gates on the river. He claimed that some don't even treat it. I'm using maple (very dense) instead of the oak I used last time for the horizontal plank; oak apparently is known to bend readily with moisture, especially steam. I'm planning to coat all with a few coats of epoxy which I think Dennis suggested; the hardwoods dealer suggested marine poly. So, given I'm going with wood instead of a wood/metal combination, are there any suggestions about which wood and the coating? Ron Wild Cheri STL ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CC 30 mast step yet again
I'm all for using wood for many things, but it seems to me that the amount of stress the mast step is subjected to is a good reason to build the replacement out of aluminum. Any small welding shop should be able to fabricate a substitute for the original wood structure at very little cost that could then be epoxied into place and should outlast the boat. Rich Knowles Indigo. LF38 Halifax On 2013-08-06, at 20:37, Persuasion persuasio...@gmail.com wrote: As always Google has the answer. http://workshopcompanion.com/KnowHow/Design/Nature_of_Wood/3_Wood_Strength/3_Wood_Strength.htm#strengthchart Mike S/V Persuasion CC 37 Keel/CB Long Sault From: Steve Thomas sthom...@sympatico.ca Date: 6 August, 2013 19:15:01 EDT To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List CC 30 mast step yet again Reply-To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Maple is not very rot resistant, but oak is. There is a reason why oak was the material of choicefor ship building. -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]OnBehalf Of Ronald B. Frerker Sent: Tuesday, August 06, 2013 4:24 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List CC 30 mast step yet again Got the engine running, so I could shift the mast over to work on the step. (BTW trouble was in the battery cables; corrosion inside the sheathing). I have only two supports and the oak plank I used bowed in the middle; probably because I didn't seal the edges well enough and water wicked in. It did last 10-15yrs though. So based on what a lister mentioned, I'm going to put in a third support in the middle. I can only buy 3/4 marine plywood by 4x8 sheet. So I'm going with solid wood for the support. The hardwoods dealer suggested mahogany, but it seems to porous for a bilge. A friend suggested ipe (epay or ironwood). Extremely dense and used in lock gates on the river. He claimed that some don't even treat it. I'm using maple (very dense) instead of the oak I used last time for the horizontal plank; oak apparently is known to bend readily with moisture, especially steam. I'm planning to coat all with a few coats of epoxy which I think Dennis suggested; the hardwoods dealer suggested marine poly. So, given I'm going with wood instead of a wood/metal combination, are there any suggestions about which wood and the coating? Ron Wild Cheri STL ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CC 30 mast step yet again
Touché's step is an aluminum box made from 1.5 inch angles sitting on a solid block of fiberglass. It will exist for millennia. Make sure you measure everything to a good reference point. FYI, white oak would be one of my choices. When encapsulating it, consider using epoxy thickened with microfibers or use thin glass cloth. Epoxy by itself has little strength and will crack with stress and allow moisture to penetrate. Dennis C. Touché 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA Sent from my iPhone On Aug 6, 2013, at 7:06 PM, Knowles Rich r...@sailpower.ca wrote: I'm all for using wood for many things, but it seems to me that the amount of stress the mast step is subjected to is a good reason to build the replacement out of aluminum. Any small welding shop should be able to fabricate a substitute for the original wood structure at very little cost that could then be epoxied into place and should outlast the boat. Rich Knowles Indigo. LF38 Halifax On 2013-08-06, at 20:37, Persuasion persuasio...@gmail.com wrote: As always Google has the answer. http://workshopcompanion.com/KnowHow/Design/Nature_of_Wood/3_Wood_Strength/3_Wood_Strength.htm#strengthchart Mike S/V Persuasion CC 37 Keel/CB Long Sault From: Steve Thomas sthom...@sympatico.ca Date: 6 August, 2013 19:15:01 EDT To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List CC 30 mast step yet again Reply-To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Maple is not very rot resistant, but oak is. There is a reason why oak was the material of choice for ship building. -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Ronald B. Frerker Sent: Tuesday, August 06, 2013 4:24 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List CC 30 mast step yet again Got the engine running, so I could shift the mast over to work on the step. (BTW trouble was in the battery cables; corrosion inside the sheathing). I have only two supports and the oak plank I used bowed in the middle; probably because I didn't seal the edges well enough and water wicked in. It did last 10-15yrs though. So based on what a lister mentioned, I'm going to put in a third support in the middle. I can only buy 3/4 marine plywood by 4x8 sheet. So I'm going with solid wood for the support. The hardwoods dealer suggested mahogany, but it seems to porous for a bilge. A friend suggested ipe (epay or ironwood). Extremely dense and used in lock gates on the river. He claimed that some don't even treat it. I'm using maple (very dense) instead of the oak I used last time for the horizontal plank; oak apparently is known to bend readily with moisture, especially steam. I'm planning to coat all with a few coats of epoxy which I think Dennis suggested; the hardwoods dealer suggested marine poly. So, given I'm going with wood instead of a wood/metal combination, are there any suggestions about which wood and the coating? Ron Wild Cheri STL ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CC 30 mast step yet again
White oak is, red oak, not so much. Ed From: Steve Thomas sthom...@sympatico.ca Maple is not very rot resistant, but oak is. There is a reason why oak was the material of choice for ship building. -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Ronald B. Frerker Sent: Tuesday, August 06, 2013 4:24 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List CC 30 mast step yet again Got the engine running, so I could shift the mast over to work on the step. (BTW trouble was in the battery cables; corrosion inside the sheathing). I have only two supports and the oak plank I used bowed in the middle; probably because I didn't seal the edges well enough and water wicked in. It did last 10-15yrs though. So based on what a lister mentioned, I'm going to put in a third support in the middle. I can only buy 3/4 marine plywood by 4x8 sheet. So I'm going with solid wood for the support. The hardwoods dealer suggested mahogany, but it seems to porous for a bilge. A friend suggested ipe (epay or ironwood). Extremely dense and used in lock gates on the river. He claimed that some don't even treat it. I'm using maple (very dense) instead of the oak I used last time for the horizontal plank; oak apparently is known to bend readily with moisture, especially steam. I'm planning to coat all with a few coats of epoxy which I think Dennis suggested; the hardwoods dealer suggested marine poly. So, given I'm going with wood instead of a wood/metal combination, are there any suggestions about which wood and the coating? Ron Wild Cheri STL ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
