Re: Stus-List In-mast wiring on Landfall 38

2018-06-26 Thread Josh Muckley via CnC-List
Bob,

I had my mast down this past winter for a complete refit.  The total came
to about $22k.  $3k in paint, $2k in new radar, $7k in new standing
rigging, $1k to pull the mast.  There was a ton of work removing old
fasteners and hardware and then replacing and rebedding with new.
Unfortunately all the little stuff just kinda got mixed in the stew.  I
can't imagine doing most of the work with the mast in place.

There was an original conduit which was nothing more than black
polyethylene water pipe.  It was OEM and was riveted to the leading edge of
the mast.  The yard recommended replacing the pipe with a more appropriate
PVC pipe.  They had to chose a diameter carefully since it has to past in
front of the spreader bars which run through the mast.  Upon disassembly it
was also discovered that the existing radar cable was not being carried in
a conduit.  Unfortunately it was discovered late in the game that all of
the wires (including new spreader lights and radar) were not going to fit
in the new PVC conduit.  Their solution was to install a second conduit for
the radar and steaming light wires.

I very much suggest considering the aqua signal spreader lights.  They are
awesome!  I also replaced my OEM aqua signal steaming/foredeck light with
one from Marine Beam.  Over the years I would guess I'm close to $1k of
marine beam stuff and
 I've had very good luck with all of it.  One time I had failure and they
were quick to replace with no recurrence.

Here's a link to some pictures if you like.  Questions are welcome.
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1eSqX7wZP1r77hD84wDmGAQSI0Tqbn9xm

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37 +
Solomons, MD




On Tue, Jun 26, 2018, 4:19 PM Robert Boyer via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> In two weeks, my summer haulout begins and the yard will be re-wiring my
> mast.  (The old original wires are un-tinned and very corroded,
> particularly at the base of the mast.)  The yard is planning to take down
> the mast to do the re-wiring.
>
> Has anyone else done this job on a Landfall 38?  Is it really necessary to
> take the mast down?  Does the mast wiring come down through a conduit?  Any
> help would be appreciated.  Thanks!
>
> Bob
>
> Bob Boyer
> s/v Rainy Days
> C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
> (Presently on the ICW)
> blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
> email: dainyr...@icloud.com
>
> On Jun 26, 2018, at 3:58 PM, John Conklin via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> me too! wish you posted fee weeks back orderd the johnson
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jun 26, 2018, at 2:27 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> I like it!
>
> Dennis C.
>
> On Tue, Jun 26, 2018 at 1:19 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>>  A couple of weeks back there was a discussion about toe rail
>> cleats.  I was unhappy with the Johnson Toe Rail Cleat
>> ,
>> so I decided to make my own using a Schaefer 8" Black Aluminum Cleat
>> .
>> My solution looks like this
>> .
>>
>>
>> Gary
>> S/V Kaylarah
>> '90 C 37+
>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>> ~~~_/)~~
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>>
>>
>>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --
> 

Re: Stus-List In-mast wiring on Landfall 38

2018-06-26 Thread Robert Boyer via CnC-List
Thanks so much, Fred!

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
Annapolis, MD 

> On Jun 26, 2018, at 5:30 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Bob — see answers embedded below:
> 
> — Fred
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
> 
>> On Jun 26, 2018, at 3:18 PM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> In two weeks, my summer haulout begins and the yard will be re-wiring my 
>> mast.  (The old original wires are un-tinned and very corroded, particularly 
>> at the base of the mast.)  The yard is planning to take down the mast to do 
>> the re-wiring.
>> 
>> Has anyone else done this job on a Landfall 38?
> 
> YES — I redid my mast a couple of years ago.  I replaced all DC wiring with 
> new, including replacing the combo steaming\/deck light with an LED fixture 
> from MarineBeam, adding a combo anchor/masthead tricolor LED (also LED from 
> MarineBeam), adding an LED Windex light, replacing the VHF cabling and 
> antenna (LMR-400 low-loss cable and a new Shakespeare antenna), adding a 
> masthead cell antenna for a new below-deck cell repeater (WeBoost system with 
> a Digital Antenna cell antenna, also with LMR-400 low-loss cable), and adding 
> a mount and cable for a masthead wind instrument (Raymarine; the boat has 
> never had a wind instrument).
> 
>> Is it really necessary to take the mast down?
> 
> YES!!! — My mast had a bunch of fiberglass insulation stuffed in it in 
> various spots; probably to keep the cabling from slapping.  This was a total 
> pain in the @$$ and added several hours to the job to get as much out as 
> possible.  There was also pipe insulation around the cabling; it was falling 
> apart and also needed to be removed.  There’s no way I could have done 
> anything with the mast up.
> 
>> Does the mast wiring come down through a conduit?
> 
> On my boat, hull #009 (1979), there is no conduit; nor would there be a good 
> way to in stall any, given the mast profile.  Instead, I bundled all of the 
> cable with three wire ties every foot or so, with the tails left on and 
> pointing 120° from each other.  This centers the bundle in the mast, and 
> keeps it from slapping.  Not a noise from this arrangement so far.  It does 
> mean you have to plan well, and have multiple pull lines coming from the 
> different exits.  While I was at it, I replaced the masthead sheaves 
> (ZephyrWorks) and the spinnaker halyard block (Garhauer), as well as fully 
> inspecting the spreaders and rig.
> 
> With the fixed (welded) cap on my mast, it made things interesting; but 
> things turned out well.  I’ve posted a photo of the completed masthead 
> install on my website: http://www.postaudio.net/webserver/masthead.jpg
> 
> BTW, I was anchored out a couple of nights this past weekend, and my anchor 
> light failed to come on.  Voltage was good at the mast base; so I went up the 
> mast to investigate.  Upon pulling the cover off the trim, I got a good whiff 
> of burnt electronics.  It appears that the driver circuit board in the anchor 
> lamp assembly fried.  I called MarineBeam to complain, and they’re sending a 
> replacement lamp free of charge, with expedited delivery.  Hopefully the new 
> one will last longer...
> 
> 
>> Any help would be appreciated.  Thanks!
>> 
>> Bob
>> 
>> Bob Boyer
>> s/v Rainy Days
>> C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
>> (Presently on the ICW)
>> blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
>> email: dainyr...@icloud.com
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



Re: Stus-List In-mast wiring on Landfall 38

2018-06-26 Thread Frederick G Street via CnC-List
Bob — see answers embedded below:

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Jun 26, 2018, at 3:18 PM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> In two weeks, my summer haulout begins and the yard will be re-wiring my 
> mast.  (The old original wires are un-tinned and very corroded, particularly 
> at the base of the mast.)  The yard is planning to take down the mast to do 
> the re-wiring.
> 
> Has anyone else done this job on a Landfall 38?

YES — I redid my mast a couple of years ago.  I replaced all DC wiring with 
new, including replacing the combo steaming\/deck light with an LED fixture 
from MarineBeam, adding a combo anchor/masthead tricolor LED (also LED from 
MarineBeam), adding an LED Windex light, replacing the VHF cabling and antenna 
(LMR-400 low-loss cable and a new Shakespeare antenna), adding a masthead cell 
antenna for a new below-deck cell repeater (WeBoost system with a Digital 
Antenna cell antenna, also with LMR-400 low-loss cable), and adding a mount and 
cable for a masthead wind instrument (Raymarine; the boat has never had a wind 
instrument).

> Is it really necessary to take the mast down?

YES!!! — My mast had a bunch of fiberglass insulation stuffed in it in various 
spots; probably to keep the cabling from slapping.  This was a total pain in 
the @$$ and added several hours to the job to get as much out as possible.  
There was also pipe insulation around the cabling; it was falling apart and 
also needed to be removed.  There’s no way I could have done anything with the 
mast up.

> Does the mast wiring come down through a conduit?

On my boat, hull #009 (1979), there is no conduit; nor would there be a good 
way to in stall any, given the mast profile.  Instead, I bundled all of the 
cable with three wire ties every foot or so, with the tails left on and 
pointing 120° from each other.  This centers the bundle in the mast, and keeps 
it from slapping.  Not a noise from this arrangement so far.  It does mean you 
have to plan well, and have multiple pull lines coming from the different 
exits.  While I was at it, I replaced the masthead sheaves (ZephyrWorks) and 
the spinnaker halyard block (Garhauer), as well as fully inspecting the 
spreaders and rig.

With the fixed (welded) cap on my mast, it made things interesting; but things 
turned out well.  I’ve posted a photo of the completed masthead install on my 
website: http://www.postaudio.net/webserver/masthead.jpg 


BTW, I was anchored out a couple of nights this past weekend, and my anchor 
light failed to come on.  Voltage was good at the mast base; so I went up the 
mast to investigate.  Upon pulling the cover off the trim, I got a good whiff 
of burnt electronics.  It appears that the driver circuit board in the anchor 
lamp assembly fried.  I called MarineBeam to complain, and they’re sending a 
replacement lamp free of charge, with expedited delivery.  Hopefully the new 
one will last longer...


> Any help would be appreciated.  Thanks!
> 
> Bob
> 
> Bob Boyer
> s/v Rainy Days
> C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
> (Presently on the ICW)
> blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com 
> email: dainyr...@icloud.com 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



Stus-List In-mast wiring on Landfall 38

2018-06-26 Thread Robert Boyer via CnC-List
In two weeks, my summer haulout begins and the yard will be re-wiring my mast.  
(The old original wires are un-tinned and very corroded, particularly at the 
base of the mast.)  The yard is planning to take down the mast to do the 
re-wiring.

Has anyone else done this job on a Landfall 38?  Is it really necessary to take 
the mast down?  Does the mast wiring come down through a conduit?  Any help 
would be appreciated.  Thanks!

Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Presently on the ICW)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Jun 26, 2018, at 3:58 PM, John Conklin via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> me too! wish you posted fee weeks back orderd the johnson
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On Jun 26, 2018, at 2:27 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
>> I like it!
>> 
>> Dennis C.
>> 
>>> On Tue, Jun 26, 2018 at 1:19 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>>  A couple of weeks back there was a discussion about toe rail cleats.  
>>> I was unhappy with the Johnson Toe Rail Cleat, so I decided to make my own 
>>> using a Schaefer 8" Black Aluminum Cleat.  My solution looks like this.
>>> 
>>> Gary
>>> S/V Kaylarah
>>> '90 C 37+
>>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>>> ~~~_/)~~
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   
>> https://eur03.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.paypal.me%2Fstumurray=02%7C01%7C%7C8f76e33103a345e67c2508d5db92a2e5%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C636656345194562954=VIYF%2FcOn9AER64eEAPwasCGctab%2B9ivw4C%2BvrfT5uyU%3D=0
>> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray