Re: Stus-List Removing a C 34 fuel tank
Our 30’ mk1 was repowered with diesel and the tank is translucent plastic at this point if that helps anyone with anything. Sent from my iPhone > On Sep 7, 2020, at 08:49, John and Maryann Read via CnC-List > wrote: > > > HI Don > > We replaced our tank with military grade aluminum custom made by Luther > Welding in Bristol RI. http://www.lutherswelding.com/Old one was original > to boat, was not leaking but did it due to its age (32 years) so it was only > a matter of time. Old tank came out of lazarette – very tight fit and > required some persuasion of the fill neck. I also could have removed the > teak trim from the lazarette and hollowed out a small portion of the glass to > fit the fill fitting if I was considering reusing it after inspection but I > wasn’t so did not. Also had to reposition Sendur tank and exhaust elbow and > throttle cable. Also replaced fill hose (very expensive). New one fit right > in as fill fitting is screwed in, not welded so total height was less. > Considered using a plastic tank but was strongly advised against due to fire > hazard. Very time consuming project and tight fit all around. > > > John and Maryann > Legacy III > 1982 C 34 > Noank, CT > > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and > every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Removing a C 34 fuel tank
HI Don We replaced our tank with military grade aluminum custom made by Luther Welding in Bristol RI. http://www.lutherswelding.com/Old one was original to boat, was not leaking but did it due to its age (32 years) so it was only a matter of time. Old tank came out of lazarette – very tight fit and required some persuasion of the fill neck. I also could have removed the teak trim from the lazarette and hollowed out a small portion of the glass to fit the fill fitting if I was considering reusing it after inspection but I wasn’t so did not. Also had to reposition Sendur tank and exhaust elbow and throttle cable. Also replaced fill hose (very expensive). New one fit right in as fill fitting is screwed in, not welded so total height was less. Considered using a plastic tank but was strongly advised against due to fire hazard. Very time consuming project and tight fit all around. John and Maryann Legacy III 1982 C 34 Noank, CT ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Removing a C 34 fuel tank
Hey Donhttps://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1MegWYy7_Wg5VswMZZhUYiFGDPCL6O_JNOn a LF38 it is not fun. If the link works you have an idea of what I am going thru right now. On the top of the tank there should be a label for Florida Marine Tanks with a stamped model numbermine is FMT-32-CC I never knew it was there until my yard got my tank out...after t months if workmuch of it a learning experience at my $$$ expense. They destroyed the label by hacking holes in the top of the tank. THANKFULLY Rainy Days LF38 had a pic of their label and FMT was able to find the original blue prints to fabricate a new tank. I upgraded from a .09 inch aluminum thickness to 3/16 inch...the minimum nowadays is 1/8 inch. No more foam under these tanks!If this looks like it might apply to you and you would like to speak with mecontact me directly. Spencer Johnson 84LF38 "Alegria "Racine WI/Mount Prospect IL___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Removing a C 34 fuel tank
Are you sure it’s not your carburetor (if this is the A4)? Dr. Brian C. Morrison > On Sep 6, 2020, at 5:07 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List > wrote: > > To clarify, I switched from steel tank to plastic when I repowered with a > diesel. The 2 steel tanks that failed were in gasoline service. They failed > due to pinhole leaks in the bottom. > > Dennis C. > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and > every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Removing a C 34 fuel tank
To clarify, I switched from steel tank to plastic when I repowered with a diesel. The 2 steel tanks that failed were in gasoline service. They failed due to pinhole leaks in the bottom. Dennis C. ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Removing a C 34 fuel tank
I switched mine to a plastic tank by Moeller Marine 8 years ago. It was pretty much a perfect fit. It’s great to be able to visually see how much fuel you have left without relying on the gauge. Aaron R. 79 30-1 Annapolis, MD Get Outlook for iOS<https://aka.ms/o0ukef> From: CnC-List on behalf of Dennis C. via CnC-List Sent: Sunday, September 6, 2020 4:21:02 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Dennis C. Subject: Re: Stus-List Removing a C 34 fuel tank I went through 2 steel diesel tanks before switching to plastic. I wanted a translucent plastic but ended up with black plastic. Doing it again, my choice would be either Monel or translucent plastic. Dennis C. Touché 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA When people replace their tanks, what material do they use? > > Thanks > Don and Dennis > Andante, C 34 > Victoria, B.C. > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Removing a C 34 fuel tank
Just in case. Wondering if boats that have switched from the atomic to a diesel are sure the tank is not galvanized. Galvanized steel and diesel do not agree. Must be aluminum, ss or plastic. J ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Removing a C 34 fuel tank
I went through 2 steel diesel tanks before switching to plastic. I wanted a translucent plastic but ended up with black plastic. Doing it again, my choice would be either Monel or translucent plastic. Dennis C. Touché 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA When people replace their tanks, what material do they use? > > Thanks > Don and Dennis > Andante, C 34 > Victoria, B.C. > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Removing a C 34 fuel tank
HiThe other emails about dirty fuel rings a bell with the issues we have had this summer.Earlier this year we had problems with the motor dying when idling down. We suspected dirty fuel, changed the filters but didn't solve the problem. Ultimately tightening the clamps on the fuel lines solved the problem. Then it came back. We looked in the fuel tank and thought it wasn't that clean, with the bottom around 50% shiny and 50% crud but again the filters weren't that dirty so what's too painful to deal with we simply choose to forget (and the tank has been that way for a long time). The fuel lines also all seemed tight. So what was it, well the problem then miraculously went away. You never like that.So then I had the boat out for a month and never had an issue.Then one day a lot of pounding into the seas. The next day the problem came back. Changed the secondary filter and the problem temporarily went away, but then the issue came back only instead of only stalling when going down to idle it would stall at high revs and ultimately wouldn't run at all. Now we had only changed the secondary filter because we didn't have a spare primary on the boat (I know, I know, we have no idea how that happened, and trust me, it will never happen again.) Fortunately we have an 8 hp outboard on the dinghy. Up in the Desolation Sound area there are not a lot of places to buy a filter but we got really lucky and were able to get one to the boat. Really lucky, but... Changed the primary filter and the engine started, but would stall again when going down to idle.So then we cut the ends off of the fuel lines and re attached them. Problem solved and the boat came back down to Victoria without issue.I know, a long story. So in the end we had two problems, or we think we had two problems. Dirty fuel tank which may have partially plugged the filter and encouraged an air leak, or both issues at the same time but until the filter got a bit dirty it was easier to get fuel than the air.Now to the questions.1. We got a quote to polish the tank and they wanted $1,200 Canadian. About $12 US but still too much. So we got a pump and some filters and a stir stick and stirred the tank, pumped the fuel out, filtered it and repeated. Now on the inside of the tank we can see it is about 90% shiny on the bottom, but then there is the side behind the baffle and it is hard to see there. So any experience with this process? How clean are peoples tanks? How do you get behind the baffle? Have people had success with self cleaning? Just keep repeating the process.2. On the C 34 the fuel tank is in behind the motor. With the motor in place there is no way that tank is coming out for a proper clean. Does anyone know of any tricks on this? Does it have to come straight out the front? We put the motor in (a new Beta) so we can take it out, but wondering if we slipped it forward could we sneak the tank out the side through the locker. Taking the tank out would allow a proper inspection. When people replace their tanks, what material do they use?ThanksDon and DennisAndante, C 34Victoria, B.C.P.S. for those Washingtonians thinking that Desolation Sound would be a lot less empty this year because American boats aren't allowed up, NOT. It was quiet in the late spring, also up in the Broughtons and the West Coast of Vancouver Island, but in Desolation Sound in July and August the popular places were still very popular. Seems every Canadian had that idea.P.P.S., On the beta engine which now has about 600 hours on it we have gone through two alternators, both on warranty. The person who repaired them said manufacturing issues. It is the larger alternator for the motor. This summer the bolt that the alternator pivots on broke. Fortunately we have a spare alternator and all the bolts, spacers, etc. Just our experience. We now keep more spare parts.Sorry this is so long, but in the time of Covid what else to do?Sent from Samsung tablet___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
