Re: Stus-List Shortening the shaft log by cutting
That looks great! I assume you were getting excessive vibrations before? As you know I do and my seal does leak some. Where does the vent from the seal lead to? I assume you don't need the cooling port that goes to your heat exchanger since you're motoring under 10 kts. Also did the R&D Engine mounts lessen the vibration as well? thanks Rocky On Mon, Jun 29, 2020 at 6:15 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > So I needed to get launched and over to another marina for some extended > maintenance. It was a nice chance to see how the new drive train worked. > Everything was fine and more or less "normal". Shaft seal didn't leak and > vented just fine, no new or excessive vibes in the drive line. > > Josh Muckley > S/V Sea Hawk > 1989 C&C 37+ > Solomons, MD > > On Tue, Jun 16, 2020, 09:02 Josh Muckley via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> I've asked a few of you personally so if this is a repeat then please >> disregard. >> >> I'm in the process of replacing/rebuilding the drive train on my C&C >> 37+. In the process I'm replacing the shaft, shaft coupling, shaft seal >> and strut bearing. >> >> The old seal was a PSS seal and the old coupling was a standard solid >> coupling. I had had a R&D Marine (PYI) coupling dampener and planned to >> reuse. The new seal is a Last Drop II from Sailor Sam's. The new coupling >> is a split coupling from R&D Marine. The new seal and coupling have added >> length which ultimately leaves only about 1.5 inches of free shaft at most. >> >> So here comes the question. >> >> First: Any concerns with only having 1.5 inches of free shaft? I have >> 3. >> - getting the coupling dampener installed requires the couplings to be >> separated by not just the thickness of the dampener buy rather by the >> thickness of the coupling bolts. >> - getting the split coupling on could be complicated >> - with the shaft seal bottomed out on the log there is less articulation >> available in the seal tube. The seal uses a delrin bearing to center >> itself on the shaft but without room to flex the bearing will just ride >> harder on the shaft and can even overheat. >> >> Second: >> The seal engages with the shaft log by at least 4 inches. If I cut the >> log shorter, then I could push the seal deeper onto the log and get a bit >> more free shaft and room for the seal to articulate. Can any of you see >> any drawbacks or pitfalls to cutting the log short? >> >> >> Thanks, >> >> Josh Muckley >> S/V Sea Hawk >> 1989 C&C 37+ >> Solomons, MD >> ___ >> >> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each >> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - >> use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> >> ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Shortening the shaft log by cutting
So I needed to get launched and over to another marina for some extended maintenance. It was a nice chance to see how the new drive train worked. Everything was fine and more or less "normal". Shaft seal didn't leak and vented just fine, no new or excessive vibes in the drive line. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD On Tue, Jun 16, 2020, 09:02 Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote: > I've asked a few of you personally so if this is a repeat then please > disregard. > > I'm in the process of replacing/rebuilding the drive train on my C&C 37+. > In the process I'm replacing the shaft, shaft coupling, shaft seal and > strut bearing. > > The old seal was a PSS seal and the old coupling was a standard solid > coupling. I had had a R&D Marine (PYI) coupling dampener and planned to > reuse. The new seal is a Last Drop II from Sailor Sam's. The new coupling > is a split coupling from R&D Marine. The new seal and coupling have added > length which ultimately leaves only about 1.5 inches of free shaft at most. > > So here comes the question. > > First: Any concerns with only having 1.5 inches of free shaft? I have 3. > - getting the coupling dampener installed requires the couplings to be > separated by not just the thickness of the dampener buy rather by the > thickness of the coupling bolts. > - getting the split coupling on could be complicated > - with the shaft seal bottomed out on the log there is less articulation > available in the seal tube. The seal uses a delrin bearing to center > itself on the shaft but without room to flex the bearing will just ride > harder on the shaft and can even overheat. > > Second: > The seal engages with the shaft log by at least 4 inches. If I cut the > log shorter, then I could push the seal deeper onto the log and get a bit > more free shaft and room for the seal to articulate. Can any of you see > any drawbacks or pitfalls to cutting the log short? > > > Thanks, > > Josh Muckley > S/V Sea Hawk > 1989 C&C 37+ > Solomons, MD > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Shortening the shaft log by cutting
Has anyone on the list gone to these guys for a quote on a Serpentine Pulley Upgrade Kit? https://electromaax.com/Serpentine-Pulley-Upgrade-Kits/ Ken H. On Fri, 26 Jun 2020 at 15:51, Josh Muckley via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > I believe you are correct. I love the idea of serpentine belts but as I > recall the conversion kits are approaching $1000. I can spend money where > and if needed on value added repairs and improvements, but $1000 for > something that isn't broke, phew! That's a hefty upgrade. Do you have a > cheaper source? > > Josh Muckley > S/V Sea Hawk > 1989 C&C 37+ > Solomons, MD > > > > On Fri, Jun 26, 2020, 14:31 Bill Coleman via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> I discovered that most of the filth in my engine room was coming from the >> V-Belts. So I swapped them out for serpentine belts. What an improvement. >> >> >> >> Bill Coleman >> >> >> >> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Josh >> Muckley via CnC-List >> *Sent:* Friday, June 26, 2020 12:42 PM >> *To:* C&C List >> *Cc:* Josh Muckley >> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Shortening the shaft log by cutting >> >> >> >> Bill, >> >> >> >> Thanks for letting me know how "excited" you are. In regards to the >> coupling there is what appears to be a predrilled partial hole. I imagine >> it might be for a set screw or lock screw. It does not extend through to >> the shaft. I'm not sure it is visible in any picture. Anybody have any >> thoughts on it's expected purpose. I'm going to call PYI (R&D Marine). >> >> >> >> I've considered the strip lighting for my own convenience. The epoxy >> paint would have to be Grey. Too much dirt getting thrown around the >> engine compartment to use white and have it get dirty. >> >> >> >> TBH, I'd rather be sailing. And paint doesn't make the boat sail better. >> >> >> >> Josh >> >> >> >> >> >> On Fri, Jun 26, 2020, 12:17 Bill Coleman via CnC-List < >> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >> >> Looks great. >> >> That transmission flange still gives me a woody. >> >> >> >> Now, If you are going to continue these instructional videos, and I think >> you should, I think you should Redd up the engine compartment, get some >> nice white epoxy going on in there, and some strip LED’s around the >> periphery. >> >> >> >> Bill Coleman >> >> >> >> >> >> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Josh >> Muckley via CnC-List >> *Sent:* Thursday, June 25, 2020 6:49 PM >> *To:* C&C List >> *Cc:* Josh Muckley >> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Shortening the shaft log by cutting >> >> >> >> I completed the shaft install today. I ended up cutting off about 2.5 >> inches of shaft log. Everything else went pretty well. >> >> >> >> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1FIKXswJLvlrxg3HOp2aJAqpqf-ib5i9g >> >> >> >> Josh Muckley >> >> S/V Sea Hawk >> >> 1989 C&C 37+ >> >> Solomons, MD >> >> >> >> On Tue, Jun 16, 2020, 09:02 Josh Muckley via CnC-List < >> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >> >> I've asked a few of you personally so if this is a repeat then please >> disregard. >> >> >> >> I'm in the process of replacing/rebuilding the drive train on my C&C >> 37+. In the process I'm replacing the shaft, shaft coupling, shaft seal >> and strut bearing. >> >> >> >> The old seal was a PSS seal and the old coupling was a standard solid >> coupling. I had had a R&D Marine (PYI) coupling dampener and planned to >> reuse. The new seal is a Last Drop II from Sailor Sam's. The new coupling >> is a split coupling from R&D Marine. The new seal and coupling have added >> length which ultimately leaves only about 1.5 inches of free shaft at most. >> >> >> >> So here comes the question. >> >> >> >> First: Any concerns with only having 1.5 inches of free shaft? I have >> 3. >> >> - getting the coupling dampener installed requires the couplings to be >> separated by not just the thickness of the dampener buy rather by the >> thickness of the coupling bolts. >> >> - getting the split coupling on could b
Re: Stus-List Shortening the shaft log by cutting
So from PYI (R&D Marine) the pre-drilled port is for finishing by drilling and tapping for a set screw/lock bolt if the coupler does not have a keyway. In my case, I asked for the online seller to add a keyway so the pre-drilled hole serves no purpose. In smaller shafts they may not even advise the lock bolt or key. You can see the hole in this picture. download.jpeg <https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Fyr_C_h8W7ivd7UgJtOmmgpsxdKZdAHy/view?usp=drivesdk> Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD On Fri, Jun 26, 2020, 13:46 Josh Muckley wrote: > Certainly possible. I hadn't considered that. I just emailed the > company. I'll let you know what they say. > > Josh > > On Fri, Jun 26, 2020, 13:01 randal johnston via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> Might it be just removal of material to balance the coupling? >> >> randy >> Tamanawas >> 29-II >> Hood River, OR >> >> On Jun 26, 2020, at 9:42 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List < >> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >> >> Bill, >> >> Thanks for letting me know how "excited" you are. In regards to the >> coupling there is what appears to be a predrilled partial hole. I imagine >> it might be for a set screw or lock screw. It does not extend through to >> the shaft. I'm not sure it is visible in any picture. Anybody have any >> thoughts on it's expected purpose. I'm going to call PYI (R&D Marine). >> >> I've considered the strip lighting for my own convenience. The epoxy >> paint would have to be Grey. Too much dirt getting thrown around the >> engine compartment to use white and have it get dirty. >> >> TBH, I'd rather be sailing. And paint doesn't make the boat sail better. >> >> Josh >> >> >> >> On Fri, Jun 26, 2020, 12:17 Bill Coleman via CnC-List < >> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >> >>> Looks great. >>> >>> That transmission flange still gives me a woody. >>> >>> >>> >>> Now, If you are going to continue these instructional videos, and I >>> think you should, I think you should Redd up the engine compartment, get >>> some nice white epoxy going on in there, and some strip LED’s around the >>> periphery. >>> >>> >>> >>> Bill Coleman >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Josh >>> Muckley via CnC-List >>> *Sent:* Thursday, June 25, 2020 6:49 PM >>> *To:* C&C List >>> *Cc:* Josh Muckley >>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Shortening the shaft log by cutting >>> >>> >>> >>> I completed the shaft install today. I ended up cutting off about 2.5 >>> inches of shaft log. Everything else went pretty well. >>> >>> >>> >>> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1FIKXswJLvlrxg3HOp2aJAqpqf-ib5i9g >>> >>> >>> >>> Josh Muckley >>> >>> S/V Sea Hawk >>> >>> 1989 C&C 37+ >>> >>> Solomons, MD >>> >>> >>> >>> On Tue, Jun 16, 2020, 09:02 Josh Muckley via CnC-List < >>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >>> >>> I've asked a few of you personally so if this is a repeat then please >>> disregard. >>> >>> >>> >>> I'm in the process of replacing/rebuilding the drive train on my C&C >>> 37+. In the process I'm replacing the shaft, shaft coupling, shaft seal >>> and strut bearing. >>> >>> >>> >>> The old seal was a PSS seal and the old coupling was a standard solid >>> coupling. I had had a R&D Marine (PYI) coupling dampener and planned to >>> reuse. The new seal is a Last Drop II from Sailor Sam's. The new coupling >>> is a split coupling from R&D Marine. The new seal and coupling have added >>> length which ultimately leaves only about 1.5 inches of free shaft at most. >>> >>> >>> >>> So here comes the question. >>> >>> >>> >>> First: Any concerns with only having 1.5 inches of free shaft? I have >>> 3. >>> >>> - getting the coupling dampener installed requires the couplings to be >>> separated by not just the thickness of the dampener buy rather by the >>> thickness of the coupling bolts. >>&g
Re: Stus-List Shortening the shaft log by cutting
The Balmar Altmount Pulley kit was $443. For my engine, they vary. Fit over the front flange was perfect. Really a nice machining job. The only thing I didn’t like is that is that it is a fine 10 groove, rather than a K-6 that most cars have. Got it at PKYS. That is a nice thing about the Beta’s, they already have serpentine belts. Bill Coleman From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Risch via CnC-List Sent: Friday, June 26, 2020 3:08 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: David Risch Subject: Re: Stus-List Shortening the shaft log by cutting Josh…same conclusion as Bill on dust and serpentine belts. I am running a 80amp Balmar alternator which is the top end of a single belt. Dust. No matter what quality belt I buy. Dual belts may help, but as Bill says…Serpentine is the man. But an expensive man. Pulleys are expensive I guess… Any other ideas out there? David F. Risch (401) 419-4650 From: CnC-List On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via CnC-List Sent: Friday, June 26, 2020 2:51 PM To: C&C List Cc: Josh Muckley Subject: Re: Stus-List Shortening the shaft log by cutting I believe you are correct. I love the idea of serpentine belts but as I recall the conversion kits are approaching $1000. I can spend money where and if needed on value added repairs and improvements, but $1000 for something that isn't broke, phew! That's a hefty upgrade. Do you have a cheaper source? Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD On Fri, Jun 26, 2020, 14:31 Bill Coleman via CnC-List wrote: I discovered that most of the filth in my engine room was coming from the V-Belts. So I swapped them out for serpentine belts. What an improvement. Bill Coleman From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via CnC-List Sent: Friday, June 26, 2020 12:42 PM To: C&C List Cc: Josh Muckley Subject: Re: Stus-List Shortening the shaft log by cutting Bill, Thanks for letting me know how "excited" you are. In regards to the coupling there is what appears to be a predrilled partial hole. I imagine it might be for a set screw or lock screw. It does not extend through to the shaft. I'm not sure it is visible in any picture. Anybody have any thoughts on it's expected purpose. I'm going to call PYI (R&D Marine). I've considered the strip lighting for my own convenience. The epoxy paint would have to be Grey. Too much dirt getting thrown around the engine compartment to use white and have it get dirty. TBH, I'd rather be sailing. And paint doesn't make the boat sail better. Josh On Fri, Jun 26, 2020, 12:17 Bill Coleman via CnC-List wrote: Looks great. That transmission flange still gives me a woody. Now, If you are going to continue these instructional videos, and I think you should, I think you should Redd up the engine compartment, get some nice white epoxy going on in there, and some strip LED’s around the periphery. Bill Coleman From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via CnC-List Sent: Thursday, June 25, 2020 6:49 PM To: C&C List Cc: Josh Muckley Subject: Re: Stus-List Shortening the shaft log by cutting I completed the shaft install today. I ended up cutting off about 2.5 inches of shaft log. Everything else went pretty well. https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1FIKXswJLvlrxg3HOp2aJAqpqf-ib5i9g Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD On Tue, Jun 16, 2020, 09:02 Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote: I've asked a few of you personally so if this is a repeat then please disregard. I'm in the process of replacing/rebuilding the drive train on my C&C 37+. In the process I'm replacing the shaft, shaft coupling, shaft seal and strut bearing. The old seal was a PSS seal and the old coupling was a standard solid coupling. I had had a R&D Marine (PYI) coupling dampener and planned to reuse. The new seal is a Last Drop II from Sailor Sam's. The new coupling is a split coupling from R&D Marine. The new seal and coupling have added length which ultimately leaves only about 1.5 inches of free shaft at most. So here comes the question. First: Any concerns with only having 1.5 inches of free shaft? I have 3. - getting the coupling dampener installed requires the couplings to be separated by not just the thickness of the dampener buy rather by the thickness of the coupling bolts. - getting the split coupling on could be complicated - with the shaft seal bottomed out on the log there is less articulation available in the seal tube. The seal uses a delrin bearing to center itself on the shaft but without room to flex the bearing will just ride harder on the shaft and can even overheat. Second: The seal engages with the shaft lo
Re: Stus-List Shortening the shaft log by cutting
Josh…same conclusion as Bill on dust and serpentine belts. I am running a 80amp Balmar alternator which is the top end of a single belt. Dust. No matter what quality belt I buy. Dual belts may help, but as Bill says…Serpentine is the man. But an expensive man. Pulleys are expensive I guess… Any other ideas out there? David F. Risch (401) 419-4650 From: CnC-List On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via CnC-List Sent: Friday, June 26, 2020 2:51 PM To: C&C List Cc: Josh Muckley Subject: Re: Stus-List Shortening the shaft log by cutting I believe you are correct. I love the idea of serpentine belts but as I recall the conversion kits are approaching $1000. I can spend money where and if needed on value added repairs and improvements, but $1000 for something that isn't broke, phew! That's a hefty upgrade. Do you have a cheaper source? Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD On Fri, Jun 26, 2020, 14:31 Bill Coleman via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: I discovered that most of the filth in my engine room was coming from the V-Belts. So I swapped them out for serpentine belts. What an improvement. Bill Coleman From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via CnC-List Sent: Friday, June 26, 2020 12:42 PM To: C&C List Cc: Josh Muckley Subject: Re: Stus-List Shortening the shaft log by cutting Bill, Thanks for letting me know how "excited" you are. In regards to the coupling there is what appears to be a predrilled partial hole. I imagine it might be for a set screw or lock screw. It does not extend through to the shaft. I'm not sure it is visible in any picture. Anybody have any thoughts on it's expected purpose. I'm going to call PYI (R&D Marine). I've considered the strip lighting for my own convenience. The epoxy paint would have to be Grey. Too much dirt getting thrown around the engine compartment to use white and have it get dirty. TBH, I'd rather be sailing. And paint doesn't make the boat sail better. Josh On Fri, Jun 26, 2020, 12:17 Bill Coleman via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: Looks great. That transmission flange still gives me a woody. Now, If you are going to continue these instructional videos, and I think you should, I think you should Redd up the engine compartment, get some nice white epoxy going on in there, and some strip LED’s around the periphery. Bill Coleman From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via CnC-List Sent: Thursday, June 25, 2020 6:49 PM To: C&C List Cc: Josh Muckley Subject: Re: Stus-List Shortening the shaft log by cutting I completed the shaft install today. I ended up cutting off about 2.5 inches of shaft log. Everything else went pretty well. https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1FIKXswJLvlrxg3HOp2aJAqpqf-ib5i9g Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD On Tue, Jun 16, 2020, 09:02 Josh Muckley via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: I've asked a few of you personally so if this is a repeat then please disregard. I'm in the process of replacing/rebuilding the drive train on my C&C 37+. In the process I'm replacing the shaft, shaft coupling, shaft seal and strut bearing. The old seal was a PSS seal and the old coupling was a standard solid coupling. I had had a R&D Marine (PYI) coupling dampener and planned to reuse. The new seal is a Last Drop II from Sailor Sam's. The new coupling is a split coupling from R&D Marine. The new seal and coupling have added length which ultimately leaves only about 1.5 inches of free shaft at most. So here comes the question. First: Any concerns with only having 1.5 inches of free shaft? I have 3. - getting the coupling dampener installed requires the couplings to be separated by not just the thickness of the dampener buy rather by the thickness of the coupling bolts. - getting the split coupling on could be complicated - with the shaft seal bottomed out on the log there is less articulation available in the seal tube. The seal uses a delrin bearing to center itself on the shaft but without room to flex the bearing will just ride harder on the shaft and can even overheat. Second: The seal engages with the shaft log by at least 4 inches. If I cut the log shorter, then I could push the seal deeper onto the log and get a bit more free shaft and room for the seal to articulate. Can any of you see any drawbacks or pitfalls to cutting the log short? Thanks, Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list
Re: Stus-List Shortening the shaft log by cutting
I believe you are correct. I love the idea of serpentine belts but as I recall the conversion kits are approaching $1000. I can spend money where and if needed on value added repairs and improvements, but $1000 for something that isn't broke, phew! That's a hefty upgrade. Do you have a cheaper source? Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD On Fri, Jun 26, 2020, 14:31 Bill Coleman via CnC-List wrote: > I discovered that most of the filth in my engine room was coming from the > V-Belts. So I swapped them out for serpentine belts. What an improvement. > > > > Bill Coleman > > > > *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Josh > Muckley via CnC-List > *Sent:* Friday, June 26, 2020 12:42 PM > *To:* C&C List > *Cc:* Josh Muckley > *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Shortening the shaft log by cutting > > > > Bill, > > > > Thanks for letting me know how "excited" you are. In regards to the > coupling there is what appears to be a predrilled partial hole. I imagine > it might be for a set screw or lock screw. It does not extend through to > the shaft. I'm not sure it is visible in any picture. Anybody have any > thoughts on it's expected purpose. I'm going to call PYI (R&D Marine). > > > > I've considered the strip lighting for my own convenience. The epoxy > paint would have to be Grey. Too much dirt getting thrown around the > engine compartment to use white and have it get dirty. > > > > TBH, I'd rather be sailing. And paint doesn't make the boat sail better. > > > > Josh > > > > > > On Fri, Jun 26, 2020, 12:17 Bill Coleman via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Looks great. > > That transmission flange still gives me a woody. > > > > Now, If you are going to continue these instructional videos, and I think > you should, I think you should Redd up the engine compartment, get some > nice white epoxy going on in there, and some strip LED’s around the > periphery. > > > > Bill Coleman > > > > > > *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Josh > Muckley via CnC-List > *Sent:* Thursday, June 25, 2020 6:49 PM > *To:* C&C List > *Cc:* Josh Muckley > *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Shortening the shaft log by cutting > > > > I completed the shaft install today. I ended up cutting off about 2.5 > inches of shaft log. Everything else went pretty well. > > > > https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1FIKXswJLvlrxg3HOp2aJAqpqf-ib5i9g > > > > Josh Muckley > > S/V Sea Hawk > > 1989 C&C 37+ > > Solomons, MD > > > > On Tue, Jun 16, 2020, 09:02 Josh Muckley via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > I've asked a few of you personally so if this is a repeat then please > disregard. > > > > I'm in the process of replacing/rebuilding the drive train on my C&C 37+. > In the process I'm replacing the shaft, shaft coupling, shaft seal and > strut bearing. > > > > The old seal was a PSS seal and the old coupling was a standard solid > coupling. I had had a R&D Marine (PYI) coupling dampener and planned to > reuse. The new seal is a Last Drop II from Sailor Sam's. The new coupling > is a split coupling from R&D Marine. The new seal and coupling have added > length which ultimately leaves only about 1.5 inches of free shaft at most. > > > > So here comes the question. > > > > First: Any concerns with only having 1.5 inches of free shaft? I have 3. > > - getting the coupling dampener installed requires the couplings to be > separated by not just the thickness of the dampener buy rather by the > thickness of the coupling bolts. > > - getting the split coupling on could be complicated > > - with the shaft seal bottomed out on the log there is less articulation > available in the seal tube. The seal uses a delrin bearing to center > itself on the shaft but without room to flex the bearing will just ride > harder on the shaft and can even overheat. > > > > Second: > > The seal engages with the shaft log by at least 4 inches. If I cut the > log shorter, then I could push the seal deeper onto the log and get a bit > more free shaft and room for the seal to articulate. Can any of you see > any drawbacks or pitfalls to cutting the log short? > > > > > > Thanks, > > > > Josh Muckley > > S/V Sea Hawk > > 1989 C&C 37+ > > Solomons, MD > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contribut
Re: Stus-List Shortening the shaft log by cutting
I discovered that most of the filth in my engine room was coming from the V-Belts. So I swapped them out for serpentine belts. What an improvement. Bill Coleman From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via CnC-List Sent: Friday, June 26, 2020 12:42 PM To: C&C List Cc: Josh Muckley Subject: Re: Stus-List Shortening the shaft log by cutting Bill, Thanks for letting me know how "excited" you are. In regards to the coupling there is what appears to be a predrilled partial hole. I imagine it might be for a set screw or lock screw. It does not extend through to the shaft. I'm not sure it is visible in any picture. Anybody have any thoughts on it's expected purpose. I'm going to call PYI (R&D Marine). I've considered the strip lighting for my own convenience. The epoxy paint would have to be Grey. Too much dirt getting thrown around the engine compartment to use white and have it get dirty. TBH, I'd rather be sailing. And paint doesn't make the boat sail better. Josh On Fri, Jun 26, 2020, 12:17 Bill Coleman via CnC-List wrote: Looks great. That transmission flange still gives me a woody. Now, If you are going to continue these instructional videos, and I think you should, I think you should Redd up the engine compartment, get some nice white epoxy going on in there, and some strip LED’s around the periphery. Bill Coleman From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via CnC-List Sent: Thursday, June 25, 2020 6:49 PM To: C&C List Cc: Josh Muckley Subject: Re: Stus-List Shortening the shaft log by cutting I completed the shaft install today. I ended up cutting off about 2.5 inches of shaft log. Everything else went pretty well. https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1FIKXswJLvlrxg3HOp2aJAqpqf-ib5i9g Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD On Tue, Jun 16, 2020, 09:02 Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote: I've asked a few of you personally so if this is a repeat then please disregard. I'm in the process of replacing/rebuilding the drive train on my C&C 37+. In the process I'm replacing the shaft, shaft coupling, shaft seal and strut bearing. The old seal was a PSS seal and the old coupling was a standard solid coupling. I had had a R&D Marine (PYI) coupling dampener and planned to reuse. The new seal is a Last Drop II from Sailor Sam's. The new coupling is a split coupling from R&D Marine. The new seal and coupling have added length which ultimately leaves only about 1.5 inches of free shaft at most. So here comes the question. First: Any concerns with only having 1.5 inches of free shaft? I have 3. - getting the coupling dampener installed requires the couplings to be separated by not just the thickness of the dampener buy rather by the thickness of the coupling bolts. - getting the split coupling on could be complicated - with the shaft seal bottomed out on the log there is less articulation available in the seal tube. The seal uses a delrin bearing to center itself on the shaft but without room to flex the bearing will just ride harder on the shaft and can even overheat. Second: The seal engages with the shaft log by at least 4 inches. If I cut the log shorter, then I could push the seal deeper onto the log and get a bit more free shaft and room for the seal to articulate. Can any of you see any drawbacks or pitfalls to cutting the log short? Thanks, Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Shortening the shaft log by cutting
Certainly possible. I hadn't considered that. I just emailed the company. I'll let you know what they say. Josh On Fri, Jun 26, 2020, 13:01 randal johnston via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Might it be just removal of material to balance the coupling? > > randy > Tamanawas > 29-II > Hood River, OR > > On Jun 26, 2020, at 9:42 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Bill, > > Thanks for letting me know how "excited" you are. In regards to the > coupling there is what appears to be a predrilled partial hole. I imagine > it might be for a set screw or lock screw. It does not extend through to > the shaft. I'm not sure it is visible in any picture. Anybody have any > thoughts on it's expected purpose. I'm going to call PYI (R&D Marine). > > I've considered the strip lighting for my own convenience. The epoxy > paint would have to be Grey. Too much dirt getting thrown around the > engine compartment to use white and have it get dirty. > > TBH, I'd rather be sailing. And paint doesn't make the boat sail better. > > Josh > > > > On Fri, Jun 26, 2020, 12:17 Bill Coleman via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> Looks great. >> >> That transmission flange still gives me a woody. >> >> >> >> Now, If you are going to continue these instructional videos, and I think >> you should, I think you should Redd up the engine compartment, get some >> nice white epoxy going on in there, and some strip LED’s around the >> periphery. >> >> >> >> Bill Coleman >> >> >> >> >> >> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Josh >> Muckley via CnC-List >> *Sent:* Thursday, June 25, 2020 6:49 PM >> *To:* C&C List >> *Cc:* Josh Muckley >> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Shortening the shaft log by cutting >> >> >> >> I completed the shaft install today. I ended up cutting off about 2.5 >> inches of shaft log. Everything else went pretty well. >> >> >> >> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1FIKXswJLvlrxg3HOp2aJAqpqf-ib5i9g >> >> >> >> Josh Muckley >> >> S/V Sea Hawk >> >> 1989 C&C 37+ >> >> Solomons, MD >> >> >> >> On Tue, Jun 16, 2020, 09:02 Josh Muckley via CnC-List < >> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >> >> I've asked a few of you personally so if this is a repeat then please >> disregard. >> >> >> >> I'm in the process of replacing/rebuilding the drive train on my C&C >> 37+. In the process I'm replacing the shaft, shaft coupling, shaft seal >> and strut bearing. >> >> >> >> The old seal was a PSS seal and the old coupling was a standard solid >> coupling. I had had a R&D Marine (PYI) coupling dampener and planned to >> reuse. The new seal is a Last Drop II from Sailor Sam's. The new coupling >> is a split coupling from R&D Marine. The new seal and coupling have added >> length which ultimately leaves only about 1.5 inches of free shaft at most. >> >> >> >> So here comes the question. >> >> >> >> First: Any concerns with only having 1.5 inches of free shaft? I have >> 3. >> >> - getting the coupling dampener installed requires the couplings to be >> separated by not just the thickness of the dampener buy rather by the >> thickness of the coupling bolts. >> >> - getting the split coupling on could be complicated >> >> - with the shaft seal bottomed out on the log there is less articulation >> available in the seal tube. The seal uses a delrin bearing to center >> itself on the shaft but without room to flex the bearing will just ride >> harder on the shaft and can even overheat. >> >> >> >> Second: >> >> The seal engages with the shaft log by at least 4 inches. If I cut the >> log shorter, then I could push the seal deeper onto the log and get a bit >> more free shaft and room for the seal to articulate. Can any of you see >> any drawbacks or pitfalls to cutting the log short? >> >> >> >> >> >> Thanks, >> >> >> >> Josh Muckley >> >> S/V Sea Hawk >> >> 1989 C&C 37+ >> >> Solomons, MD >> >> ___ >> >> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each >> and every one i
Re: Stus-List Shortening the shaft log by cutting
Might it be just removal of material to balance the coupling? randy Tamanawas 29-II Hood River, OR > On Jun 26, 2020, at 9:42 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List > wrote: > > Bill, > > Thanks for letting me know how "excited" you are. In regards to the coupling > there is what appears to be a predrilled partial hole. I imagine it might be > for a set screw or lock screw. It does not extend through to the shaft. I'm > not sure it is visible in any picture. Anybody have any thoughts on it's > expected purpose. I'm going to call PYI (R&D Marine). > > I've considered the strip lighting for my own convenience. The epoxy paint > would have to be Grey. Too much dirt getting thrown around the engine > compartment to use white and have it get dirty. > > TBH, I'd rather be sailing. And paint doesn't make the boat sail better. > > Josh > > > > On Fri, Jun 26, 2020, 12:17 Bill Coleman via CnC-List <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: > Looks great. > > That transmission flange still gives me a woody. > > > > Now, If you are going to continue these instructional videos, and I think you > should, I think you should Redd up the engine compartment, get some nice > white epoxy going on in there, and some strip LED’s around the periphery. > > > > Bill Coleman > > > > > > From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com > <mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via CnC-List > Sent: Thursday, June 25, 2020 6:49 PM > To: C&C List > Cc: Josh Muckley > Subject: Re: Stus-List Shortening the shaft log by cutting > > > > I completed the shaft install today. I ended up cutting off about 2.5 inches > of shaft log. Everything else went pretty well. > > > > https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1FIKXswJLvlrxg3HOp2aJAqpqf-ib5i9g > <https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1FIKXswJLvlrxg3HOp2aJAqpqf-ib5i9g> > > > Josh Muckley > > S/V Sea Hawk > > 1989 C&C 37+ > > Solomons, MD > > > > On Tue, Jun 16, 2020, 09:02 Josh Muckley via CnC-List <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: > > I've asked a few of you personally so if this is a repeat then please > disregard. > > > > I'm in the process of replacing/rebuilding the drive train on my C&C 37+. In > the process I'm replacing the shaft, shaft coupling, shaft seal and strut > bearing. > > > > The old seal was a PSS seal and the old coupling was a standard solid > coupling. I had had a R&D Marine (PYI) coupling dampener and planned to > reuse. The new seal is a Last Drop II from Sailor Sam's. The new coupling > is a split coupling from R&D Marine. The new seal and coupling have added > length which ultimately leaves only about 1.5 inches of free shaft at most. > > > > So here comes the question. > > > > First: Any concerns with only having 1.5 inches of free shaft? I have 3. > > - getting the coupling dampener installed requires the couplings to be > separated by not just the thickness of the dampener buy rather by the > thickness of the coupling bolts. > > - getting the split coupling on could be complicated > > - with the shaft seal bottomed out on the log there is less articulation > available in the seal tube. The seal uses a delrin bearing to center itself > on the shaft but without room to flex the bearing will just ride harder on > the shaft and can even overheat. > > > > Second: > > The seal engages with the shaft log by at least 4 inches. If I cut the log > shorter, then I could push the seal deeper onto the log and get a bit more > free shaft and room for the seal to articulate. Can any of you see any > drawbacks or pitfalls to cutting the log short? > > > > > > Thanks, > > > > Josh Muckley > > S/V Sea Hawk > > 1989 C&C 37+ > > Solomons, MD > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and > every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and > every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray> > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and > every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Shortening the shaft log by cutting
Bill, Thanks for letting me know how "excited" you are. In regards to the coupling there is what appears to be a predrilled partial hole. I imagine it might be for a set screw or lock screw. It does not extend through to the shaft. I'm not sure it is visible in any picture. Anybody have any thoughts on it's expected purpose. I'm going to call PYI (R&D Marine). I've considered the strip lighting for my own convenience. The epoxy paint would have to be Grey. Too much dirt getting thrown around the engine compartment to use white and have it get dirty. TBH, I'd rather be sailing. And paint doesn't make the boat sail better. Josh On Fri, Jun 26, 2020, 12:17 Bill Coleman via CnC-List wrote: > Looks great. > > That transmission flange still gives me a woody. > > > > Now, If you are going to continue these instructional videos, and I think > you should, I think you should Redd up the engine compartment, get some > nice white epoxy going on in there, and some strip LED’s around the > periphery. > > > > Bill Coleman > > > > > > *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Josh > Muckley via CnC-List > *Sent:* Thursday, June 25, 2020 6:49 PM > *To:* C&C List > *Cc:* Josh Muckley > *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Shortening the shaft log by cutting > > > > I completed the shaft install today. I ended up cutting off about 2.5 > inches of shaft log. Everything else went pretty well. > > > > https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1FIKXswJLvlrxg3HOp2aJAqpqf-ib5i9g > > > > Josh Muckley > > S/V Sea Hawk > > 1989 C&C 37+ > > Solomons, MD > > > > On Tue, Jun 16, 2020, 09:02 Josh Muckley via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > I've asked a few of you personally so if this is a repeat then please > disregard. > > > > I'm in the process of replacing/rebuilding the drive train on my C&C 37+. > In the process I'm replacing the shaft, shaft coupling, shaft seal and > strut bearing. > > > > The old seal was a PSS seal and the old coupling was a standard solid > coupling. I had had a R&D Marine (PYI) coupling dampener and planned to > reuse. The new seal is a Last Drop II from Sailor Sam's. The new coupling > is a split coupling from R&D Marine. The new seal and coupling have added > length which ultimately leaves only about 1.5 inches of free shaft at most. > > > > So here comes the question. > > > > First: Any concerns with only having 1.5 inches of free shaft? I have 3. > > - getting the coupling dampener installed requires the couplings to be > separated by not just the thickness of the dampener buy rather by the > thickness of the coupling bolts. > > - getting the split coupling on could be complicated > > - with the shaft seal bottomed out on the log there is less articulation > available in the seal tube. The seal uses a delrin bearing to center > itself on the shaft but without room to flex the bearing will just ride > harder on the shaft and can even overheat. > > > > Second: > > The seal engages with the shaft log by at least 4 inches. If I cut the > log shorter, then I could push the seal deeper onto the log and get a bit > more free shaft and room for the seal to articulate. Can any of you see > any drawbacks or pitfalls to cutting the log short? > > > > > > Thanks, > > > > Josh Muckley > > S/V Sea Hawk > > 1989 C&C 37+ > > Solomons, MD > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Shortening the shaft log by cutting
Looks great. That transmission flange still gives me a woody. Now, If you are going to continue these instructional videos, and I think you should, I think you should Redd up the engine compartment, get some nice white epoxy going on in there, and some strip LED’s around the periphery. Bill Coleman From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via CnC-List Sent: Thursday, June 25, 2020 6:49 PM To: C&C List Cc: Josh Muckley Subject: Re: Stus-List Shortening the shaft log by cutting I completed the shaft install today. I ended up cutting off about 2.5 inches of shaft log. Everything else went pretty well. https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1FIKXswJLvlrxg3HOp2aJAqpqf-ib5i9g Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD On Tue, Jun 16, 2020, 09:02 Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote: I've asked a few of you personally so if this is a repeat then please disregard. I'm in the process of replacing/rebuilding the drive train on my C&C 37+. In the process I'm replacing the shaft, shaft coupling, shaft seal and strut bearing. The old seal was a PSS seal and the old coupling was a standard solid coupling. I had had a R&D Marine (PYI) coupling dampener and planned to reuse. The new seal is a Last Drop II from Sailor Sam's. The new coupling is a split coupling from R&D Marine. The new seal and coupling have added length which ultimately leaves only about 1.5 inches of free shaft at most. So here comes the question. First: Any concerns with only having 1.5 inches of free shaft? I have 3. - getting the coupling dampener installed requires the couplings to be separated by not just the thickness of the dampener buy rather by the thickness of the coupling bolts. - getting the split coupling on could be complicated - with the shaft seal bottomed out on the log there is less articulation available in the seal tube. The seal uses a delrin bearing to center itself on the shaft but without room to flex the bearing will just ride harder on the shaft and can even overheat. Second: The seal engages with the shaft log by at least 4 inches. If I cut the log shorter, then I could push the seal deeper onto the log and get a bit more free shaft and room for the seal to articulate. Can any of you see any drawbacks or pitfalls to cutting the log short? Thanks, Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Shortening the shaft log by cutting
Looks great. > On 06/25/2020 6:49 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List > wrote: > > > I completed the shaft install today. I ended up cutting off about 2.5 > inches of shaft log. Everything else went pretty well. > > https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1FIKXswJLvlrxg3HOp2aJAqpqf-ib5i9g > > Josh Muckley > S/V Sea Hawk > 1989 C&C 37+ > Solomons, MD > > On Tue, Jun 16, 2020, 09:02 Josh Muckley via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote: > > > > I've asked a few of you personally so if this is a repeat > then please disregard. > > > > I'm in the process of replacing/rebuilding the drive train on my > > C&C 37+. In the process I'm replacing the shaft, shaft coupling, shaft > > seal and strut bearing. > > > > The old seal was a PSS seal and the old coupling was a standard > > solid coupling. I had had a R&D Marine (PYI) coupling dampener and planned > > to reuse. The new seal is a Last Drop II from Sailor Sam's. The new > > coupling is a split coupling from R&D Marine. The new seal and coupling > > have added length which ultimately leaves only about 1.5 inches of free > > shaft at most. > > > > So here comes the question. > > > > First: Any concerns with only having 1.5 inches of free shaft? I > > have 3. > > - getting the coupling dampener installed requires the couplings to > > be separated by not just the thickness of the dampener buy rather by the > > thickness of the coupling bolts. > > - getting the split coupling on could be complicated > > - with the shaft seal bottomed out on the log there is less > > articulation available in the seal tube. The seal uses a delrin bearing to > > center itself on the shaft but without room to flex the bearing will just > > ride harder on the shaft and can even overheat. > > > > Second: > > The seal engages with the shaft log by at least 4 inches. If I cut > > the log shorter, then I could push the seal deeper onto the log and get a > > bit more free shaft and room for the seal to articulate. Can any of you > > see any drawbacks or pitfalls to cutting the log short? > > > > > > Thanks, > > > > Josh Muckley > > S/V Sea Hawk > > 1989 C&C 37+ > > Solomons, MD > > ___ > > > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. > > Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list > > - use PayPal to send contribution --https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > > > > > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Shortening the shaft log by cutting
I completed the shaft install today. I ended up cutting off about 2.5 inches of shaft log. Everything else went pretty well. https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1FIKXswJLvlrxg3HOp2aJAqpqf-ib5i9g Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD On Tue, Jun 16, 2020, 09:02 Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote: > I've asked a few of you personally so if this is a repeat then please > disregard. > > I'm in the process of replacing/rebuilding the drive train on my C&C 37+. > In the process I'm replacing the shaft, shaft coupling, shaft seal and > strut bearing. > > The old seal was a PSS seal and the old coupling was a standard solid > coupling. I had had a R&D Marine (PYI) coupling dampener and planned to > reuse. The new seal is a Last Drop II from Sailor Sam's. The new coupling > is a split coupling from R&D Marine. The new seal and coupling have added > length which ultimately leaves only about 1.5 inches of free shaft at most. > > So here comes the question. > > First: Any concerns with only having 1.5 inches of free shaft? I have 3. > - getting the coupling dampener installed requires the couplings to be > separated by not just the thickness of the dampener buy rather by the > thickness of the coupling bolts. > - getting the split coupling on could be complicated > - with the shaft seal bottomed out on the log there is less articulation > available in the seal tube. The seal uses a delrin bearing to center > itself on the shaft but without room to flex the bearing will just ride > harder on the shaft and can even overheat. > > Second: > The seal engages with the shaft log by at least 4 inches. If I cut the > log shorter, then I could push the seal deeper onto the log and get a bit > more free shaft and room for the seal to articulate. Can any of you see > any drawbacks or pitfalls to cutting the log short? > > > Thanks, > > Josh Muckley > S/V Sea Hawk > 1989 C&C 37+ > Solomons, MD > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Shortening the shaft log by cutting
You can procure the coupler directly from PYI but you my have to call. They have corporate discounts if you ask. Or you can find them third party distributor's other online stores. I got mine at www.generalpropeller.com Josh On Wed, Jun 17, 2020, 13:11 Bill Coleman via CnC-List wrote: > Well, that story makes me even more inclined to try the Last Drop. > > > > And does this mean that you are not going to divulge your source for the > nice SS shaft Flange? > > There are even comments on your video page! > > > > Bill Coleman > > > > *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Josh > Muckley via CnC-List > *Sent:* Wednesday, June 17, 2020 12:15 PM > *To:* C&C List > *Cc:* Josh Muckley > *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Shortening the shaft log by cutting > > > > "If a picture is worth a thousand words, what is a video worth?" - Well > I suppose it depends on the framerate! Haha > > > > PYI (PSS shaft seal, Max-Prop, R&D Marine) states simply that reusing the > old solid coupling is wrong and likely to result in misalignment. Maine > Sailor from Compass Marine and Marine How-to has a compelling video. > > > > https://youtu.be/onmkD4PnRlk > > > > So, I had every intention of replacing the old solid coupling. Lots of > people suggested a split coupling for easier installation and removal in > the future (and likely future reuse). The typical buck algonquin split > coupling was first on the list but seemed to have limited build quality. > My machinist agreed and spoke of split couplings with disdain... Until he > saw the one I have. I had found it years ago but never had a reason to > buy. At only a marginal increase in price it was relatively easy to > justify over the buck algonquin. It also appears to be made of stainless > however no marketing about its material properties are available. > > > > As for replacing the log? I don't exactly know how one would replace. I > suppose that you would sand/grind out the existing bore and then rebed a > new FRP tube in its place with thickened epoxy. Fill and fare the outside > where it exits the hull. My log has "shmutz" on the inside interface where > it enters the hull. I don't know what normal looks like but this appears > to be DIY not OEM. > > > > Rob was my first contact. He more or less stated that he designs the > hulls not the finer details. > > > > The cutlass bearing is the real limit with regards to alignment. Having > the shaft NOT twisting in the strut is the most important aspect. If the > firberglass tube which makes the shaft log is not perfectly aligned with > the straight line from the engine to the strut then the seal will need to > articulate/be adjusted to align so the seal face it perpendicular to the > shaft. In a perfect world everything works but we've all discusses the > asymmetrical aspects of our boats before. > > > > I like the design, engineering, and service of PYI products. Everything I > have bought or needed from them has been top notch. The boat came with > their Max-Prop and PSS shaft seal. I added the coupling dampener a few > years back when I replaced the engine mounts with the PYI (R&D Marine) > mounts. I have known that periodic replacement of certain parts of the PSS > are required. Per PYI it should happen every 5 to 7 years. I've had the > boat for 8 and have no idea when the PO installed the seal. I'm already on > borrowed time. I think the primary concern is that the rubber bellows > which applies pressure to the seal face will get weak and relax over time. > This can be mitigated by periodically relocating the stainless collar to > add compression. This past October a boat neighbor who had PSS shaft seal > started their engine and put it in gear only to promptly hear a thump, > thump, thump. He quickly shutdown the engine and ultimately found that the > stainless ring had seized to the carbon ring, upon putting it in gear the > rubber bellows tore circumferentially! He was able to realign the rubber > pieces and mitigate the majority of the water now entering the boat. This > was all the motivation I needed to take action. > > > > The Last Drop II seal doesn't risk a bellow rupture, tear, or relaxation. > The hose is superior silicone and the pressure is provided by a stainless > spring. Unlike the PSS seal, the stainless ring portion (which is taking > up some added shaft space) does not need grub screws to damage the shaft. > No drilling dimples, nothing. The spring is far less likely to relax than > the rubber bellows of the PSS. The price for a rebuild kit for PSS had > already made me consider
Re: Stus-List Shortening the shaft log by cutting
Well, that story makes me even more inclined to try the Last Drop. And does this mean that you are not going to divulge your source for the nice SS shaft Flange? There are even comments on your video page! Bill Coleman From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via CnC-List Sent: Wednesday, June 17, 2020 12:15 PM To: C&C List Cc: Josh Muckley Subject: Re: Stus-List Shortening the shaft log by cutting "If a picture is worth a thousand words, what is a video worth?" - Well I suppose it depends on the framerate! Haha PYI (PSS shaft seal, Max-Prop, R&D Marine) states simply that reusing the old solid coupling is wrong and likely to result in misalignment. Maine Sailor from Compass Marine and Marine How-to has a compelling video. https://youtu.be/onmkD4PnRlk So, I had every intention of replacing the old solid coupling. Lots of people suggested a split coupling for easier installation and removal in the future (and likely future reuse). The typical buck algonquin split coupling was first on the list but seemed to have limited build quality. My machinist agreed and spoke of split couplings with disdain... Until he saw the one I have. I had found it years ago but never had a reason to buy. At only a marginal increase in price it was relatively easy to justify over the buck algonquin. It also appears to be made of stainless however no marketing about its material properties are available. As for replacing the log? I don't exactly know how one would replace. I suppose that you would sand/grind out the existing bore and then rebed a new FRP tube in its place with thickened epoxy. Fill and fare the outside where it exits the hull. My log has "shmutz" on the inside interface where it enters the hull. I don't know what normal looks like but this appears to be DIY not OEM. Rob was my first contact. He more or less stated that he designs the hulls not the finer details. The cutlass bearing is the real limit with regards to alignment. Having the shaft NOT twisting in the strut is the most important aspect. If the firberglass tube which makes the shaft log is not perfectly aligned with the straight line from the engine to the strut then the seal will need to articulate/be adjusted to align so the seal face it perpendicular to the shaft. In a perfect world everything works but we've all discusses the asymmetrical aspects of our boats before. I like the design, engineering, and service of PYI products. Everything I have bought or needed from them has been top notch. The boat came with their Max-Prop and PSS shaft seal. I added the coupling dampener a few years back when I replaced the engine mounts with the PYI (R&D Marine) mounts. I have known that periodic replacement of certain parts of the PSS are required. Per PYI it should happen every 5 to 7 years. I've had the boat for 8 and have no idea when the PO installed the seal. I'm already on borrowed time. I think the primary concern is that the rubber bellows which applies pressure to the seal face will get weak and relax over time. This can be mitigated by periodically relocating the stainless collar to add compression. This past October a boat neighbor who had PSS shaft seal started their engine and put it in gear only to promptly hear a thump, thump, thump. He quickly shutdown the engine and ultimately found that the stainless ring had seized to the carbon ring, upon putting it in gear the rubber bellows tore circumferentially! He was able to realign the rubber pieces and mitigate the majority of the water now entering the boat. This was all the motivation I needed to take action. The Last Drop II seal doesn't risk a bellow rupture, tear, or relaxation. The hose is superior silicone and the pressure is provided by a stainless spring. Unlike the PSS seal, the stainless ring portion (which is taking up some added shaft space) does not need grub screws to damage the shaft. No drilling dimples, nothing. The spring is far less likely to relax than the rubber bellows of the PSS. The price for a rebuild kit for PSS had already made me consider a complete replacement. The marginal increase in price for the Last Drop II made it an easy choice. Despite already being long winded I could go into further details and advantages of any one of the products I have mentioned. I think talking it out and hearing other's thoughts has solidified my decision to cut the log. Thanks. All the best, Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD On Wed, Jun 17, 2020, 10:12 Bill Coleman via CnC-List wrote: If a picture is worth a thousand words, what is a video worth? First off, before I forget, where on earth did you get that handsome SS Transmission flange? That is sweet! And you mention the PO may ha
Re: Stus-List Shortening the shaft log by cutting
us it gives the hose more flexibility. > > > > You mention that you fine-tuned the alignment, but that the shaft is not > perfectly aligned in the log – When I replaced my engine in 2007, I aligned > the shaft it so it exited the log perfectly from the outside, and was > centered in the log. Then I adjusted the engine to fit, so the flange and > the tranny flange were within a couple thousands with a feeler gauge. > > > > I see what you mean with the bolts, I also installed one of those, but > forgot the bolts go both ways. A couple inches off the log should give you > the clearance you need, no? > > > > Curious to see how you like it after the PYI. In maybe 18 years, I had > zero problems with my PYI, and I never burped it, but maybe once or twice. > But in my latest boat I am now thinking of replacing the existing PYI. On > launching last week, I burped it, and went about taking it over to the > dock, and noticed my perfectly dry bilge filling up with water. Long story > short, after 45 minutes of sucking water out, and looking for the leak > around all the through hulls and hoses, I finally found it leaking pretty > good around the carbon and SS seal on the shaft – Must have gotten some > crap in between the mating surfaces during burping. It took a bunch more > burping and wiggling around to get it to stop. > > It was a little unnerving, to say the least. > > > > So there is likely to be a Last Drop in my future as well. > > > > Bill Coleman > > Erie PA > > > > > > *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Josh > Muckley via CnC-List > *Sent:* Tuesday, June 16, 2020 9:13 PM > *To:* C&C List > *Cc:* Josh Muckley > *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Shortening the shaft log by cutting > > > > Bill, > > > > Just for you. > > > > https://youtu.be/d0FQPlcPDeM > > > > Josh > > > > On Tue, Jun 16, 2020, 11:10 Bill Coleman via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Well, you just do how-to videos. That’s what you do. So, I am > anticipating you will do one on this, and looking forward to this! > > You are kind of filling Wally’s shoes on the documentation side. > > > > I just watched the video, > > > https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=9&v=6xx8qz1Fgk0&feature=emb_logo > > and they had tons of space on that. > > > > If I am understanding you right, couldn’t you just poke the bolts through > from the back to the tranny, so you don’t have the length of the bolts to > contend with? > > > > Bill > > > > > > > > *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Josh > Muckley via CnC-List > *Sent:* Tuesday, June 16, 2020 9:22 AM > *To:* C&C List > *Cc:* Josh Muckley > *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Shortening the shaft log by cutting > > > > Bill, > > > > I can do a video but would like to know what it should focus on... My > situation and questions, of my ultimate solution? > > > > Josh > > > > On Tue, Jun 16, 2020, 09:20 Bill Coleman via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > That’s a lot to unpack. > > I am having trouble visualizing all this, but I am very interested, > especially in the Last Drop seal, I hope you do one of your famous videos. > > > > Bill Coleman > > > > *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Josh > Muckley via CnC-List > *Sent:* Tuesday, June 16, 2020 9:01 AM > *To:* C&C List > *Cc:* Josh Muckley > *Subject:* Stus-List Shortening the shaft log by cutting > > > > I've asked a few of you personally so if this is a repeat then please > disregard. > > > > I'm in the process of replacing/rebuilding the drive train on my C&C 37+. > In the process I'm replacing the shaft, shaft coupling, shaft seal and > strut bearing. > > > > The old seal was a PSS seal and the old coupling was a standard solid > coupling. I had had a R&D Marine (PYI) coupling dampener and planned to > reuse. The new seal is a Last Drop II from Sailor Sam's. The new coupling > is a split coupling from R&D Marine. The new seal and coupling have added > length which ultimately leaves only about 1.5 inches of free shaft at most. > > > > So here comes the question. > > > > First: Any concerns with only having 1.5 inches of free shaft? I have 3. > > - getting the coupling dampener installed requires the couplings to be > separated by not just the thickness of the dampener buy rather by the > thickness of the coupling bolts. > > -
Re: Stus-List Shortening the shaft log by cutting
If a picture is worth a thousand words, what is a video worth? First off, before I forget, where on earth did you get that handsome SS Transmission flange? That is sweet! And you mention the PO may have replaced the log with longer, how do you replace that? Isn’t that a basic part of the structure? As far as the length, I do think it is too long. I think you could lose a couple inches off that with no problem. But as long as we have professional mentoring on the list, I would be curious to hear what Rob thinks, but I would think a few inches should be more than enough. It the thing is too long, you end up having a lot of leverage on it, and if the shaft were wobbly, which could stress it. Plus it gives the hose more flexibility. You mention that you fine-tuned the alignment, but that the shaft is not perfectly aligned in the log – When I replaced my engine in 2007, I aligned the shaft it so it exited the log perfectly from the outside, and was centered in the log. Then I adjusted the engine to fit, so the flange and the tranny flange were within a couple thousands with a feeler gauge. I see what you mean with the bolts, I also installed one of those, but forgot the bolts go both ways. A couple inches off the log should give you the clearance you need, no? Curious to see how you like it after the PYI. In maybe 18 years, I had zero problems with my PYI, and I never burped it, but maybe once or twice. But in my latest boat I am now thinking of replacing the existing PYI. On launching last week, I burped it, and went about taking it over to the dock, and noticed my perfectly dry bilge filling up with water. Long story short, after 45 minutes of sucking water out, and looking for the leak around all the through hulls and hoses, I finally found it leaking pretty good around the carbon and SS seal on the shaft – Must have gotten some crap in between the mating surfaces during burping. It took a bunch more burping and wiggling around to get it to stop. It was a little unnerving, to say the least. So there is likely to be a Last Drop in my future as well. Bill Coleman Erie PA From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via CnC-List Sent: Tuesday, June 16, 2020 9:13 PM To: C&C List Cc: Josh Muckley Subject: Re: Stus-List Shortening the shaft log by cutting Bill, Just for you. https://youtu.be/d0FQPlcPDeM Josh On Tue, Jun 16, 2020, 11:10 Bill Coleman via CnC-List wrote: Well, you just do how-to videos. That’s what you do. So, I am anticipating you will do one on this, and looking forward to this! You are kind of filling Wally’s shoes on the documentation side. I just watched the video, https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=9 <https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=9&v=6xx8qz1Fgk0&feature=emb_logo> &v=6xx8qz1Fgk0&feature=emb_logo and they had tons of space on that. If I am understanding you right, couldn’t you just poke the bolts through from the back to the tranny, so you don’t have the length of the bolts to contend with? Bill From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via CnC-List Sent: Tuesday, June 16, 2020 9:22 AM To: C&C List Cc: Josh Muckley Subject: Re: Stus-List Shortening the shaft log by cutting Bill, I can do a video but would like to know what it should focus on... My situation and questions, of my ultimate solution? Josh On Tue, Jun 16, 2020, 09:20 Bill Coleman via CnC-List wrote: That’s a lot to unpack. I am having trouble visualizing all this, but I am very interested, especially in the Last Drop seal, I hope you do one of your famous videos. Bill Coleman From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via CnC-List Sent: Tuesday, June 16, 2020 9:01 AM To: C&C List Cc: Josh Muckley Subject: Stus-List Shortening the shaft log by cutting I've asked a few of you personally so if this is a repeat then please disregard. I'm in the process of replacing/rebuilding the drive train on my C&C 37+. In the process I'm replacing the shaft, shaft coupling, shaft seal and strut bearing. The old seal was a PSS seal and the old coupling was a standard solid coupling. I had had a R&D Marine (PYI) coupling dampener and planned to reuse. The new seal is a Last Drop II from Sailor Sam's. The new coupling is a split coupling from R&D Marine. The new seal and coupling have added length which ultimately leaves only about 1.5 inches of free shaft at most. So here comes the question. First: Any concerns with only having 1.5 inches of free shaft? I have 3. - getting the coupling dampener installed requires the couplings to be separated by not just the thickness of the dampener buy rather by the thickness of the coupling bolts. - getting the split coupl
Re: Stus-List Shortening the shaft log by cutting
Hi Josh, I hesitate to offer an opinion on your situation as I haven't done that and I'm no expert. However, your reasoning seems sound and here are a few thoughts. I'm in favor of shortening the shaft log by cutting. Not sure how much. The shaft log does not support the shaft, it only supports the seal to keep out water, so shortening will not weaken the log. Shortening the log will reduce some of the offset angle if the log isn't truely in line with the shaft. Shortening the log will also reduce the amount of leverage the seal might impose on the log if things are misaligned. I think the seal rubber tube, needs two clamps, but I also think they need to be spaced apart. I wonder if the seal manufacturer recommends mimimum dimensions for that? Without that, I'd suggest leaving twice the minimum distance for two straps. This diagram of a Catalina installation shows 1 1/2" minimum between stuffing box and coupling. That's all you have. https://www.usedboatequipment.com/stuffing-box-maintenance/ Chuck Scheaffer Resolute 1989 C&C 34R Pasadena Md ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Shortening the shaft log by cutting
It does look very long. Maybe a fellow 37+ owner could help to compare. My 1987 33-2 log was definitely shorter. Like your videos. Bruno Lachance Bécassine 33-2 New-Richmond,Qc Envoyé de mon iPad Le 16 juin 2020 à 23:40, Josh Muckley mailto:muckl...@gmail.com>> a écrit : That's fair. The dampener has a few advantages besides alignment which I'd like to retain. I have painstakingly aligned the engine so I'm not particularly concerned about alignment. TBH it looks like the PO may have replaced the log and left it long. I don't know what stock looks like. 4.5 inches is way more than is needed to fit 2 band clamps. Why would it need to be that long? Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD On Tue, Jun 16, 2020, 22:41 Bruno Lachance mailto:bruno_lacha...@hotmail.com>> wrote: Josh, what about loosing the dampener instead? I know you have it, but With a good alignment you shouldn't need it. I think I would prefer to keep the shaft log intact, it also keeps / brings the seal a bit forward. I'm wondering if it adds some sort of support to the shaft. Few years ago when I replaced the shaft, coupler, cutlass bearing and the packing gland by a dripless seal I found the engine needed to be more precisely aligned. Food for thoughts. Bruno Lachance Bécassine,33-2 New-Richmond, Qc Envoyé de mon iPad Le 16 juin 2020 à 20:38, Josh Muckley via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> a écrit : Thanks Marek, I agree with almost all of your assessment. The shaft centering issue is not that it moves around or that I have intent to install it "off center" but rather that it could be exiting the log not perfectly on center. Without some articulation of the seal it would require perfect alignment between the strut, the log, and the engine. As for the log having room for 2 bands, I have at least 4 inches of engagement - probably room for 10 to 15 bands or more! And that is what I am considering reducing. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD On Tue, Jun 16, 2020, 10:23 Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: Josh, I am far from being an expert, but… - I don’t think there is any issues with having very little of the shaft “free”. In my boat I have about 1/4” (free). The issue, in my mind, is not how much is left free after the assembly, but rather, how you can assemble all pieces together. - the shaft log has to be long enough that you can safely put the seal on it and secure it with two clamps. You want that seal to be as secure as possible. - there should not be any “flexing” (sideways) of the seal. The shaft should go through the middle of shaft log and should not be moving around. I might be trivialising the problem, but.. Marek 1994 C270 ”Legato” Ottawa, ON From: CnC-List On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via CnC-List Sent: 16 June, 2020 09:01 To: C&C List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> Cc: Josh Muckley mailto:muckl...@gmail.com>> Subject: Stus-List Shortening the shaft log by cutting I've asked a few of you personally so if this is a repeat then please disregard. I'm in the process of replacing/rebuilding the drive train on my C&C 37+. In the process I'm replacing the shaft, shaft coupling, shaft seal and strut bearing. The old seal was a PSS seal and the old coupling was a standard solid coupling. I had had a R&D Marine (PYI) coupling dampener and planned to reuse. The new seal is a Last Drop II from Sailor Sam's. The new coupling is a split coupling from R&D Marine. The new seal and coupling have added length which ultimately leaves only about 1.5 inches of free shaft at most. So here comes the question. First: Any concerns with only having 1.5 inches of free shaft? I have 3. - getting the coupling dampener installed requires the couplings to be separated by not just the thickness of the dampener buy rather by the thickness of the coupling bolts. - getting the split coupling on could be complicated - with the shaft seal bottomed out on the log there is less articulation available in the seal tube. The seal uses a delrin bearing to center itself on the shaft but without room to flex the bearing will just ride harder on the shaft and can even overheat. Second: The seal engages with the shaft log by at least 4 inches. If I cut the log shorter, then I could push the seal deeper onto the log and get a bit more free shaft and room for the seal to articulate. Can any of you see any drawbacks or pitfalls to cutting the log short? Thanks, Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray __
Re: Stus-List Shortening the shaft log by cutting
That's fair. The dampener has a few advantages besides alignment which I'd like to retain. I have painstakingly aligned the engine so I'm not particularly concerned about alignment. TBH it looks like the PO may have replaced the log and left it long. I don't know what stock looks like. 4.5 inches is way more than is needed to fit 2 band clamps. Why would it need to be that long? Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD On Tue, Jun 16, 2020, 22:41 Bruno Lachance wrote: > Josh, what about loosing the dampener instead? I know you have it, but > With a good alignment you shouldn't need it. I think I would prefer to keep > the shaft log intact, it also keeps / brings the seal a bit forward. I'm > wondering if it adds some sort of support to the shaft. Few years ago when > I replaced the shaft, coupler, cutlass bearing and the packing gland by a > dripless seal I found the engine needed to be more precisely aligned. > > Food for thoughts. > > Bruno Lachance > Bécassine,33-2 > New-Richmond, Qc > > Envoyé de mon iPad > > Le 16 juin 2020 à 20:38, Josh Muckley via CnC-List > a écrit : > > Thanks Marek, > > I agree with almost all of your assessment. > > The shaft centering issue is not that it moves around or that I have > intent to install it "off center" but rather that it could be exiting the > log not perfectly on center. Without some articulation of the seal it > would require perfect alignment between the strut, the log, and the engine. > > As for the log having room for 2 bands, I have at least 4 inches of > engagement - probably room for 10 to 15 bands or more! And that is what I > am considering reducing. > > Josh Muckley > S/V Sea Hawk > 1989 C&C 37+ > Solomons, MD > > > > > On Tue, Jun 16, 2020, 10:23 Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> Josh, >> >> >> >> I am far from being an expert, but… >> >> >> >> - I don’t think there is any issues with having very little of the shaft >> “free”. In my boat I have about 1/4” (free). The issue, in my mind, is not >> how much is left free after the assembly, but rather, how you can assemble >> all pieces together. >> >> >> >> - the shaft log has to be long enough that you can safely put the seal on >> it and secure it with two clamps. You want that seal to be as secure as >> possible. >> >> >> >> - there should not be any “flexing” (sideways) of the seal. The shaft >> should go through the middle of shaft log and should not be moving around. >> >> >> >> I might be trivialising the problem, but.. >> >> >> >> Marek >> >> >> >> 1994 C270 ”Legato” >> >> Ottawa, ON >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> *From:* CnC-List *On Behalf Of *Josh Muckley via CnC-List >> *Sent:* 16 June, 2020 09:01 >> *To:* C&C List >> *Cc:* Josh Muckley >> *Subject:* Stus-List Shortening the shaft log by cutting >> >> >> >> I've asked a few of you personally so if this is a repeat then please >> disregard. >> >> >> >> I'm in the process of replacing/rebuilding the drive train on my C&C >> 37+. In the process I'm replacing the shaft, shaft coupling, shaft seal >> and strut bearing. >> >> >> >> The old seal was a PSS seal and the old coupling was a standard solid >> coupling. I had had a R&D Marine (PYI) coupling dampener and planned to >> reuse. The new seal is a Last Drop II from Sailor Sam's. The new coupling >> is a split coupling from R&D Marine. The new seal and coupling have added >> length which ultimately leaves only about 1.5 inches of free shaft at most. >> >> >> >> So here comes the question. >> >> >> >> First: Any concerns with only having 1.5 inches of free shaft? I have >> 3. >> >> - getting the coupling dampener installed requires the couplings to be >> separated by not just the thickness of the dampener buy rather by the >> thickness of the coupling bolts. >> >> - getting the split coupling on could be complicated >> >> - with the shaft seal bottomed out on the log there is less articulation >> available in the seal tube. The seal uses a delrin bearing to center >> itself on the shaft but without room to flex the bearing will just ride >> harder on the shaft and can even overheat. >> >> >> >> Second: >> >> The seal engages with the shaft log by at least 4 inches. If
Re: Stus-List Shortening the shaft log by cutting
Josh, what about loosing the dampener instead? I know you have it, but With a good alignment you shouldn't need it. I think I would prefer to keep the shaft log intact, it also keeps / brings the seal a bit forward. I'm wondering if it adds some sort of support to the shaft. Few years ago when I replaced the shaft, coupler, cutlass bearing and the packing gland by a dripless seal I found the engine needed to be more precisely aligned. Food for thoughts. Bruno Lachance Bécassine,33-2 New-Richmond, Qc Envoyé de mon iPad Le 16 juin 2020 à 20:38, Josh Muckley via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> a écrit : Thanks Marek, I agree with almost all of your assessment. The shaft centering issue is not that it moves around or that I have intent to install it "off center" but rather that it could be exiting the log not perfectly on center. Without some articulation of the seal it would require perfect alignment between the strut, the log, and the engine. As for the log having room for 2 bands, I have at least 4 inches of engagement - probably room for 10 to 15 bands or more! And that is what I am considering reducing. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD On Tue, Jun 16, 2020, 10:23 Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: Josh, I am far from being an expert, but… - I don’t think there is any issues with having very little of the shaft “free”. In my boat I have about 1/4” (free). The issue, in my mind, is not how much is left free after the assembly, but rather, how you can assemble all pieces together. - the shaft log has to be long enough that you can safely put the seal on it and secure it with two clamps. You want that seal to be as secure as possible. - there should not be any “flexing” (sideways) of the seal. The shaft should go through the middle of shaft log and should not be moving around. I might be trivialising the problem, but.. Marek 1994 C270 ”Legato” Ottawa, ON From: CnC-List On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via CnC-List Sent: 16 June, 2020 09:01 To: C&C List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> Cc: Josh Muckley mailto:muckl...@gmail.com>> Subject: Stus-List Shortening the shaft log by cutting I've asked a few of you personally so if this is a repeat then please disregard. I'm in the process of replacing/rebuilding the drive train on my C&C 37+. In the process I'm replacing the shaft, shaft coupling, shaft seal and strut bearing. The old seal was a PSS seal and the old coupling was a standard solid coupling. I had had a R&D Marine (PYI) coupling dampener and planned to reuse. The new seal is a Last Drop II from Sailor Sam's. The new coupling is a split coupling from R&D Marine. The new seal and coupling have added length which ultimately leaves only about 1.5 inches of free shaft at most. So here comes the question. First: Any concerns with only having 1.5 inches of free shaft? I have 3. - getting the coupling dampener installed requires the couplings to be separated by not just the thickness of the dampener buy rather by the thickness of the coupling bolts. - getting the split coupling on could be complicated - with the shaft seal bottomed out on the log there is less articulation available in the seal tube. The seal uses a delrin bearing to center itself on the shaft but without room to flex the bearing will just ride harder on the shaft and can even overheat. Second: The seal engages with the shaft log by at least 4 inches. If I cut the log shorter, then I could push the seal deeper onto the log and get a bit more free shaft and room for the seal to articulate. Can any of you see any drawbacks or pitfalls to cutting the log short? Thanks, Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Shortening the shaft log by cutting
Bill, Just for you. https://youtu.be/d0FQPlcPDeM Josh On Tue, Jun 16, 2020, 11:10 Bill Coleman via CnC-List wrote: > Well, you just do how-to videos. That’s what you do. So, I am > anticipating you will do one on this, and looking forward to this! > > You are kind of filling Wally’s shoes on the documentation side. > > > > I just watched the video, > > > https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=9&v=6xx8qz1Fgk0&feature=emb_logo > > and they had tons of space on that. > > > > If I am understanding you right, couldn’t you just poke the bolts through > from the back to the tranny, so you don’t have the length of the bolts to > contend with? > > > > Bill > > > > > > > > *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Josh > Muckley via CnC-List > *Sent:* Tuesday, June 16, 2020 9:22 AM > *To:* C&C List > *Cc:* Josh Muckley > *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Shortening the shaft log by cutting > > > > Bill, > > > > I can do a video but would like to know what it should focus on... My > situation and questions, of my ultimate solution? > > > > Josh > > > > On Tue, Jun 16, 2020, 09:20 Bill Coleman via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > That’s a lot to unpack. > > I am having trouble visualizing all this, but I am very interested, > especially in the Last Drop seal, I hope you do one of your famous videos. > > > > Bill Coleman > > > > *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Josh > Muckley via CnC-List > *Sent:* Tuesday, June 16, 2020 9:01 AM > *To:* C&C List > *Cc:* Josh Muckley > *Subject:* Stus-List Shortening the shaft log by cutting > > > > I've asked a few of you personally so if this is a repeat then please > disregard. > > > > I'm in the process of replacing/rebuilding the drive train on my C&C 37+. > In the process I'm replacing the shaft, shaft coupling, shaft seal and > strut bearing. > > > > The old seal was a PSS seal and the old coupling was a standard solid > coupling. I had had a R&D Marine (PYI) coupling dampener and planned to > reuse. The new seal is a Last Drop II from Sailor Sam's. The new coupling > is a split coupling from R&D Marine. The new seal and coupling have added > length which ultimately leaves only about 1.5 inches of free shaft at most. > > > > So here comes the question. > > > > First: Any concerns with only having 1.5 inches of free shaft? I have 3. > > - getting the coupling dampener installed requires the couplings to be > separated by not just the thickness of the dampener buy rather by the > thickness of the coupling bolts. > > - getting the split coupling on could be complicated > > - with the shaft seal bottomed out on the log there is less articulation > available in the seal tube. The seal uses a delrin bearing to center > itself on the shaft but without room to flex the bearing will just ride > harder on the shaft and can even overheat. > > > > Second: > > The seal engages with the shaft log by at least 4 inches. If I cut the > log shorter, then I could push the seal deeper onto the log and get a bit > more free shaft and room for the seal to articulate. Can any of you see > any drawbacks or pitfalls to cutting the log short? > > > > > > Thanks, > > > > Josh Muckley > > S/V Sea Hawk > > 1989 C&C 37+ > > Solomons, MD > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Shortening the shaft log by cutting
Thanks Marek, I agree with almost all of your assessment. The shaft centering issue is not that it moves around or that I have intent to install it "off center" but rather that it could be exiting the log not perfectly on center. Without some articulation of the seal it would require perfect alignment between the strut, the log, and the engine. As for the log having room for 2 bands, I have at least 4 inches of engagement - probably room for 10 to 15 bands or more! And that is what I am considering reducing. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD On Tue, Jun 16, 2020, 10:23 Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Josh, > > > > I am far from being an expert, but… > > > > - I don’t think there is any issues with having very little of the shaft > “free”. In my boat I have about 1/4” (free). The issue, in my mind, is not > how much is left free after the assembly, but rather, how you can assemble > all pieces together. > > > > - the shaft log has to be long enough that you can safely put the seal on > it and secure it with two clamps. You want that seal to be as secure as > possible. > > > > - there should not be any “flexing” (sideways) of the seal. The shaft > should go through the middle of shaft log and should not be moving around. > > > > I might be trivialising the problem, but.. > > > > Marek > > > > 1994 C270 ”Legato” > > Ottawa, ON > > > > > > > > *From:* CnC-List *On Behalf Of *Josh Muckley via CnC-List > *Sent:* 16 June, 2020 09:01 > *To:* C&C List > *Cc:* Josh Muckley > *Subject:* Stus-List Shortening the shaft log by cutting > > > > I've asked a few of you personally so if this is a repeat then please > disregard. > > > > I'm in the process of replacing/rebuilding the drive train on my C&C 37+. > In the process I'm replacing the shaft, shaft coupling, shaft seal and > strut bearing. > > > > The old seal was a PSS seal and the old coupling was a standard solid > coupling. I had had a R&D Marine (PYI) coupling dampener and planned to > reuse. The new seal is a Last Drop II from Sailor Sam's. The new coupling > is a split coupling from R&D Marine. The new seal and coupling have added > length which ultimately leaves only about 1.5 inches of free shaft at most. > > > > So here comes the question. > > > > First: Any concerns with only having 1.5 inches of free shaft? I have 3. > > - getting the coupling dampener installed requires the couplings to be > separated by not just the thickness of the dampener buy rather by the > thickness of the coupling bolts. > > - getting the split coupling on could be complicated > > - with the shaft seal bottomed out on the log there is less articulation > available in the seal tube. The seal uses a delrin bearing to center > itself on the shaft but without room to flex the bearing will just ride > harder on the shaft and can even overheat. > > > > Second: > > The seal engages with the shaft log by at least 4 inches. If I cut the > log shorter, then I could push the seal deeper onto the log and get a bit > more free shaft and room for the seal to articulate. Can any of you see > any drawbacks or pitfalls to cutting the log short? > > > > > > Thanks, > > > > Josh Muckley > > S/V Sea Hawk > > 1989 C&C 37+ > > Solomons, MD > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Shortening the shaft log by cutting
Well, you just do how-to videos. That’s what you do. So, I am anticipating you will do one on this, and looking forward to this! You are kind of filling Wally’s shoes on the documentation side. I just watched the video, https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=9 <https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=9&v=6xx8qz1Fgk0&feature=emb_logo> &v=6xx8qz1Fgk0&feature=emb_logo and they had tons of space on that. If I am understanding you right, couldn’t you just poke the bolts through from the back to the tranny, so you don’t have the length of the bolts to contend with? Bill From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via CnC-List Sent: Tuesday, June 16, 2020 9:22 AM To: C&C List Cc: Josh Muckley Subject: Re: Stus-List Shortening the shaft log by cutting Bill, I can do a video but would like to know what it should focus on... My situation and questions, of my ultimate solution? Josh On Tue, Jun 16, 2020, 09:20 Bill Coleman via CnC-List wrote: That’s a lot to unpack. I am having trouble visualizing all this, but I am very interested, especially in the Last Drop seal, I hope you do one of your famous videos. Bill Coleman From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via CnC-List Sent: Tuesday, June 16, 2020 9:01 AM To: C&C List Cc: Josh Muckley Subject: Stus-List Shortening the shaft log by cutting I've asked a few of you personally so if this is a repeat then please disregard. I'm in the process of replacing/rebuilding the drive train on my C&C 37+. In the process I'm replacing the shaft, shaft coupling, shaft seal and strut bearing. The old seal was a PSS seal and the old coupling was a standard solid coupling. I had had a R&D Marine (PYI) coupling dampener and planned to reuse. The new seal is a Last Drop II from Sailor Sam's. The new coupling is a split coupling from R&D Marine. The new seal and coupling have added length which ultimately leaves only about 1.5 inches of free shaft at most. So here comes the question. First: Any concerns with only having 1.5 inches of free shaft? I have 3. - getting the coupling dampener installed requires the couplings to be separated by not just the thickness of the dampener buy rather by the thickness of the coupling bolts. - getting the split coupling on could be complicated - with the shaft seal bottomed out on the log there is less articulation available in the seal tube. The seal uses a delrin bearing to center itself on the shaft but without room to flex the bearing will just ride harder on the shaft and can even overheat. Second: The seal engages with the shaft log by at least 4 inches. If I cut the log shorter, then I could push the seal deeper onto the log and get a bit more free shaft and room for the seal to articulate. Can any of you see any drawbacks or pitfalls to cutting the log short? Thanks, Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Shortening the shaft log by cutting
I would keep the shaft log as long as possible. Only cut off the bare minimum. On Tue, Jun 16, 2020 at 6:02 AM Josh Muckley via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > I've asked a few of you personally so if this is a repeat then please > disregard. > > I'm in the process of replacing/rebuilding the drive train on my C&C 37+. > In the process I'm replacing the shaft, shaft coupling, shaft seal and > strut bearing. > > The old seal was a PSS seal and the old coupling was a standard solid > coupling. I had had a R&D Marine (PYI) coupling dampener and planned to > reuse. The new seal is a Last Drop II from Sailor Sam's. The new coupling > is a split coupling from R&D Marine. The new seal and coupling have added > length which ultimately leaves only about 1.5 inches of free shaft at most. > > So here comes the question. > > First: Any concerns with only having 1.5 inches of free shaft? I have 3. > - getting the coupling dampener installed requires the couplings to be > separated by not just the thickness of the dampener buy rather by the > thickness of the coupling bolts. > - getting the split coupling on could be complicated > - with the shaft seal bottomed out on the log there is less articulation > available in the seal tube. The seal uses a delrin bearing to center > itself on the shaft but without room to flex the bearing will just ride > harder on the shaft and can even overheat. > > Second: > The seal engages with the shaft log by at least 4 inches. If I cut the > log shorter, then I could push the seal deeper onto the log and get a bit > more free shaft and room for the seal to articulate. Can any of you see > any drawbacks or pitfalls to cutting the log short? > > > Thanks, > > Josh Muckley > S/V Sea Hawk > 1989 C&C 37+ > Solomons, MD > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > -- Douglas Mountjoy 253-208-1412 Port Orchard YC, WA Rebecca Leah C&C LandFall 39 ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Shortening the shaft log by cutting
Josh, I am far from being an expert, but… - I don’t think there is any issues with having very little of the shaft “free”. In my boat I have about 1/4” (free). The issue, in my mind, is not how much is left free after the assembly, but rather, how you can assemble all pieces together. - the shaft log has to be long enough that you can safely put the seal on it and secure it with two clamps. You want that seal to be as secure as possible. - there should not be any “flexing” (sideways) of the seal. The shaft should go through the middle of shaft log and should not be moving around. I might be trivialising the problem, but.. Marek 1994 C270 ”Legato” Ottawa, ON From: CnC-List On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via CnC-List Sent: 16 June, 2020 09:01 To: C&C List Cc: Josh Muckley Subject: Stus-List Shortening the shaft log by cutting I've asked a few of you personally so if this is a repeat then please disregard. I'm in the process of replacing/rebuilding the drive train on my C&C 37+. In the process I'm replacing the shaft, shaft coupling, shaft seal and strut bearing. The old seal was a PSS seal and the old coupling was a standard solid coupling. I had had a R&D Marine (PYI) coupling dampener and planned to reuse. The new seal is a Last Drop II from Sailor Sam's. The new coupling is a split coupling from R&D Marine. The new seal and coupling have added length which ultimately leaves only about 1.5 inches of free shaft at most. So here comes the question. First: Any concerns with only having 1.5 inches of free shaft? I have 3. - getting the coupling dampener installed requires the couplings to be separated by not just the thickness of the dampener buy rather by the thickness of the coupling bolts. - getting the split coupling on could be complicated - with the shaft seal bottomed out on the log there is less articulation available in the seal tube. The seal uses a delrin bearing to center itself on the shaft but without room to flex the bearing will just ride harder on the shaft and can even overheat. Second: The seal engages with the shaft log by at least 4 inches. If I cut the log shorter, then I could push the seal deeper onto the log and get a bit more free shaft and room for the seal to articulate. Can any of you see any drawbacks or pitfalls to cutting the log short? Thanks, Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Shortening the shaft log by cutting
Bill, I can do a video but would like to know what it should focus on... My situation and questions, of my ultimate solution? Josh On Tue, Jun 16, 2020, 09:20 Bill Coleman via CnC-List wrote: > That’s a lot to unpack. > > I am having trouble visualizing all this, but I am very interested, > especially in the Last Drop seal, I hope you do one of your famous videos. > > > > Bill Coleman > > > > *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Josh > Muckley via CnC-List > *Sent:* Tuesday, June 16, 2020 9:01 AM > *To:* C&C List > *Cc:* Josh Muckley > *Subject:* Stus-List Shortening the shaft log by cutting > > > > I've asked a few of you personally so if this is a repeat then please > disregard. > > > > I'm in the process of replacing/rebuilding the drive train on my C&C 37+. > In the process I'm replacing the shaft, shaft coupling, shaft seal and > strut bearing. > > > > The old seal was a PSS seal and the old coupling was a standard solid > coupling. I had had a R&D Marine (PYI) coupling dampener and planned to > reuse. The new seal is a Last Drop II from Sailor Sam's. The new coupling > is a split coupling from R&D Marine. The new seal and coupling have added > length which ultimately leaves only about 1.5 inches of free shaft at most. > > > > So here comes the question. > > > > First: Any concerns with only having 1.5 inches of free shaft? I have 3. > > - getting the coupling dampener installed requires the couplings to be > separated by not just the thickness of the dampener buy rather by the > thickness of the coupling bolts. > > - getting the split coupling on could be complicated > > - with the shaft seal bottomed out on the log there is less articulation > available in the seal tube. The seal uses a delrin bearing to center > itself on the shaft but without room to flex the bearing will just ride > harder on the shaft and can even overheat. > > > > Second: > > The seal engages with the shaft log by at least 4 inches. If I cut the > log shorter, then I could push the seal deeper onto the log and get a bit > more free shaft and room for the seal to articulate. Can any of you see > any drawbacks or pitfalls to cutting the log short? > > > > > > Thanks, > > > > Josh Muckley > > S/V Sea Hawk > > 1989 C&C 37+ > > Solomons, MD > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Shortening the shaft log by cutting
That’s a lot to unpack. I am having trouble visualizing all this, but I am very interested, especially in the Last Drop seal, I hope you do one of your famous videos. Bill Coleman From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via CnC-List Sent: Tuesday, June 16, 2020 9:01 AM To: C&C List Cc: Josh Muckley Subject: Stus-List Shortening the shaft log by cutting I've asked a few of you personally so if this is a repeat then please disregard. I'm in the process of replacing/rebuilding the drive train on my C&C 37+. In the process I'm replacing the shaft, shaft coupling, shaft seal and strut bearing. The old seal was a PSS seal and the old coupling was a standard solid coupling. I had had a R&D Marine (PYI) coupling dampener and planned to reuse. The new seal is a Last Drop II from Sailor Sam's. The new coupling is a split coupling from R&D Marine. The new seal and coupling have added length which ultimately leaves only about 1.5 inches of free shaft at most. So here comes the question. First: Any concerns with only having 1.5 inches of free shaft? I have 3. - getting the coupling dampener installed requires the couplings to be separated by not just the thickness of the dampener buy rather by the thickness of the coupling bolts. - getting the split coupling on could be complicated - with the shaft seal bottomed out on the log there is less articulation available in the seal tube. The seal uses a delrin bearing to center itself on the shaft but without room to flex the bearing will just ride harder on the shaft and can even overheat. Second: The seal engages with the shaft log by at least 4 inches. If I cut the log shorter, then I could push the seal deeper onto the log and get a bit more free shaft and room for the seal to articulate. Can any of you see any drawbacks or pitfalls to cutting the log short? Thanks, Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Shortening the shaft log by cutting
I've asked a few of you personally so if this is a repeat then please disregard. I'm in the process of replacing/rebuilding the drive train on my C&C 37+. In the process I'm replacing the shaft, shaft coupling, shaft seal and strut bearing. The old seal was a PSS seal and the old coupling was a standard solid coupling. I had had a R&D Marine (PYI) coupling dampener and planned to reuse. The new seal is a Last Drop II from Sailor Sam's. The new coupling is a split coupling from R&D Marine. The new seal and coupling have added length which ultimately leaves only about 1.5 inches of free shaft at most. So here comes the question. First: Any concerns with only having 1.5 inches of free shaft? I have 3. - getting the coupling dampener installed requires the couplings to be separated by not just the thickness of the dampener buy rather by the thickness of the coupling bolts. - getting the split coupling on could be complicated - with the shaft seal bottomed out on the log there is less articulation available in the seal tube. The seal uses a delrin bearing to center itself on the shaft but without room to flex the bearing will just ride harder on the shaft and can even overheat. Second: The seal engages with the shaft log by at least 4 inches. If I cut the log shorter, then I could push the seal deeper onto the log and get a bit more free shaft and room for the seal to articulate. Can any of you see any drawbacks or pitfalls to cutting the log short? Thanks, Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
