Re: Stus-List Starting Problem
It reduces the arcing in the switch by reducing the amperage for a small solenoid compared to the starter. Adds life to the switch. You can have larger gauge wire switched at the solenoid to the starter and modest size to the switch. Ed Prime Interest Toronto, Ontario On Jun 11, 2016 8:37 AM, "Dave via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: Josh, What's the advantage of adding an auxiliary solenoid to the starting circuit? Dave J Saltaire C 35Mk3 Bristol, RI -- *From: *"Josh Muckley via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> *To: *"C List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> *Cc: *"Josh Muckley" <muckl...@gmail.com> *Sent: *Monday, June 6, 2016 8:20:33 AM *Subject: *Re: Stus-List Starting Problem I made a video that walks through the starting circuit on my yanmar. Its pretty generic, maybe it will help. https://youtu.be/Mp2cGDa1VOU Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD On Jun 5, 2016 11:13 PM, "Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List" < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Stopped by the boat today planning to get prep'd for some work that need > to get done. > > Figured I should kick the engine over just to make sure everything was > running smoothly. Unfortunately I got nothing (absolutely nothing) from > turning the key. > > > Batteries seem fine. Able to run radio - and no visible dip in power to > the radio when trying to turn over the engine. > > I had a similar experience a year ago after running the diesel for a few > hours - wind came up and we sailed for a bit, but then couldn't re-start. > That day I easily found a loose wire (clearly it had shaken loose with the > engine running for a long period) off a clip on the starter solenoid (?). > > That was my first check today - but it was attached. Pulled it off to > clean contact but no effect. > > > I figure there are 3 possibilities > > 1- ignition key failure - no signal to the starter to kick over > > 2- starter/solenoid failure - I doubt this as I'd expect some type of > noise or power dip indicating that something was seized > > 3- electrical connection failure - I can see a large wire leading to what > I presume is the solenoid, plus a couple of smaller wires connected as > well. Nothing obviously disconnected > > > I need to head back down to the boat with a voltage meter - try to figure > out what is going on and hopefully find an easy fix! > > > Any advice is appreciated. I presume is the key is working them I'd get a > voltage spike at the solenoid when the key is turned. If nothing then it > suggests either 1 or 3. Where should I see that? > > I expect I'll pull the panel and check the contacts behind the ignition > key - maybe try hot-wiring it if I can figure out which wires are needed > > Should I use automotive jumper cables to bypass the starter and try to > spin the starter/solenoid directly? > > > The engine is a Volvo 2002 18HP > > > Thanks in advance for the advice, > > Mark > > There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval. > - George Santayana > > > ___ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you > like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All > Contributions are greatly appreciated! > ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Starting Problem
Josh, What's the advantage of adding an auxiliary solenoid to the starting circuit? Dave J Saltaire C 35Mk3 Bristol, RI - Original Message - From: "Josh Muckley via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> To: "C List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Cc: "Josh Muckley" <muckl...@gmail.com> Sent: Monday, June 6, 2016 8:20:33 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List Starting Problem I made a video that walks through the starting circuit on my yanmar. Its pretty generic, maybe it will help. https://youtu.be/Mp2cGDa1VOU Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD On Jun 5, 2016 11:13 PM, "Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List" < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote: Stopped by the boat today planning to get prep'd for some work that need to get done. Figured I should kick the engine over just to make sure everything was running smoothly. Unfortunately I got nothing (absolutely nothing) from turning the key. Batteries seem fine. Able to run radio - and no visible dip in power to the radio when trying to turn over the engine. I had a similar experience a year ago after running the diesel for a few hours - wind came up and we sailed for a bit, but then couldn't re-start. That day I easily found a loose wire (clearly it had shaken loose with the engine running for a long period) off a clip on the starter solenoid (?). That was my first check today - but it was attached. Pulled it off to clean contact but no effect. I figure there are 3 possibilities 1- ignition key failure - no signal to the starter to kick over 2- starter/solenoid failure - I doubt this as I'd expect some type of noise or power dip indicating that something was seized 3- electrical connection failure - I can see a large wire leading to what I presume is the solenoid, plus a couple of smaller wires connected as well. Nothing obviously disconnected I need to head back down to the boat with a voltage meter - try to figure out what is going on and hopefully find an easy fix! Any advice is appreciated. I presume is the key is working them I'd get a voltage spike at the solenoid when the key is turned. If nothing then it suggests either 1 or 3. Where should I see that? I expect I'll pull the panel and check the contacts behind the ignition key - maybe try hot-wiring it if I can figure out which wires are needed Should I use automotive jumper cables to bypass the starter and try to spin the starter/solenoid directly? The engine is a Volvo 2002 18HP Thanks in advance for the advice, Mark There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval. - George Santayana ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Starting Problem
Thx - I'll look for that and clean it Mark There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval. - George Santayana On 2016-06-07 8:44 PM, Dave via CnC-List wrote: Your description has me 90% certain you have a bad ground from the wiring harness to the engine. On my 2gm this was a large ring terminal attached to or above the stArter iirc. Your multimeter may fool you as you are getting some conductivity. Inspect, Clean/de oxidize that grounding point first, save yourself some time. Note - since you are near the 12v feed to the starter, be careful when you work... Dave. Message: 7 Date: Tue, 07 Jun 2016 15:42:53 -0300 From: "Dr. Mark Bodnar" <drbod...@accesswave.ca> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Starting Problem Message-ID: <914ac484-43d2-9fd4-fb72-4fe87cccf...@accesswave.ca> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed Thanks for all the feedback. I'll me digging out my multimeter and heading down to the boat this weekend. I now realize that I don't think the engine vent fan turned on when I turned the key (my lights on the panel are rather intermittent and my engine overheat buzzer has never worked, plus the tach is intermittent -- so good chance that the wiring harness is the culprit). I'll check the fuses on the engine and see if I can find the ground wires. No glow plug to deal with. I've also been advised to check the "neutral kill swtich" (stops you from starting engine in gear) and the "oil pressure kill switch" - not sure where those are so I'll have to look at the engine manual. I'll see what I find and come back with more details if it's not working Sent from my iPhone ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Starting Problem
Your description has me 90% certain you have a bad ground from the wiring harness to the engine. On my 2gm this was a large ring terminal attached to or above the stArter iirc. Your multimeter may fool you as you are getting some conductivity. Inspect, Clean/de oxidize that grounding point first, save yourself some time. Note - since you are near the 12v feed to the starter, be careful when you work... Dave. Message: 7 Date: Tue, 07 Jun 2016 15:42:53 -0300 From: "Dr. Mark Bodnar" <drbod...@accesswave.ca> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Starting Problem Message-ID: <914ac484-43d2-9fd4-fb72-4fe87cccf...@accesswave.ca> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed Thanks for all the feedback. I'll me digging out my multimeter and heading down to the boat this weekend. I now realize that I don't think the engine vent fan turned on when I turned the key (my lights on the panel are rather intermittent and my engine overheat buzzer has never worked, plus the tach is intermittent -- so good chance that the wiring harness is the culprit). I'll check the fuses on the engine and see if I can find the ground wires. No glow plug to deal with. I've also been advised to check the "neutral kill swtich" (stops you from starting engine in gear) and the "oil pressure kill switch" - not sure where those are so I'll have to look at the engine manual. I'll see what I find and come back with more details if it's not working Sent from my iPhone___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Starting Problem
A word of caution regarding electrical diagnosis on live circuits… I recently attended a two day class at Annapolis School of Seamanship on diesel mechanics and one of the things they stressed is removing ALL jewelry (wedding rings, watches, EVERYTHING) when diving into wiring that’s connected to a battery. It takes very little contact to make a nice short circuit across a gold wedding ring or bracelet and the result is a very bad burn, sometimes taking the skin clear off your finger or wrist (I believe the term they used was “de-gloving” your hand). I worked on cars and motorcycles for many years without a second thought about frying my wristwatch across a starter solenoid, but it appears there have been enough instances of bad burns, especially in tight engine spaces (like beneath the companionway of a sailboat) to warrant a word to the wise… Chuck Gilchrest S/V Half Magic 1983 LF 35 Pandaram, MA From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. via CnC-List Sent: Tuesday, June 7, 2016 3:08 PM To: CnClist <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Cc: Dennis C. <capt...@gmail.com> Subject: Re: Stus-List Starting Problem I just had same issue. Started at the ignition switch and worked toward engine. It was the slide on connector on the solenoid. Apparently I'd knocked it loose while working near it. Just remember, voltage does not mean the amperage will happen. Speaking of engines, here's what I'm working on this weekend: http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/heat_exchanger I hope Touche's exchanger doesn't have as many zinc pieces as this one. I'm seeing 5-10 degrees of overheat right now at high rpm. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Tue, Jun 7, 2016 at 1:42 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: Thanks for all the feedback. I'll me digging out my multimeter and heading down to the boat this weekend. I now realize that I don't think the engine vent fan turned on when I turned the key (my lights on the panel are rather intermittent and my engine overheat buzzer has never worked, plus the tach is intermittent -- so good chance that the wiring harness is the culprit). I'll check the fuses on the engine and see if I can find the ground wires. No glow plug to deal with. I've also been advised to check the "neutral kill swtich" (stops you from starting engine in gear) and the "oil pressure kill switch" - not sure where those are so I'll have to look at the engine manual. I'll see what I find and come back with more details if it's not working Thanks, Mark There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval. - George Santayana On 2016-06-06 12:12 AM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List wrote: Stopped by the boat today planning to get prep'd for some work that need to get done. Figured I should kick the engine over just to make sure everything was running smoothly. Unfortunately I got nothing (absolutely nothing) from turning the key. Batteries seem fine. Able to run radio - and no visible dip in power to the radio when trying to turn over the engine. I had a similar experience a year ago after running the diesel for a few hours - wind came up and we sailed for a bit, but then couldn't re-start. That day I easily found a loose wire (clearly it had shaken loose with the engine running for a long period) off a clip on the starter solenoid (?). That was my first check today - but it was attached. Pulled it off to clean contact but no effect. I figure there are 3 possibilities 1- ignition key failure - no signal to the starter to kick over 2- starter/solenoid failure - I doubt this as I'd expect some type of noise or power dip indicating that something was seized 3- electrical connection failure - I can see a large wire leading to what I presume is the solenoid, plus a couple of smaller wires connected as well. Nothing obviously disconnected I need to head back down to the boat with a voltage meter - try to figure out what is going on and hopefully find an easy fix! Any advice is appreciated. I presume is the key is working them I'd get a voltage spike at the solenoid when the key is turned. If nothing then it suggests either 1 or 3. Where should I see that? I expect I'll pull the panel and check the contacts behind the ignition key - maybe try hot-wiring it if I can figure out which wires are needed Should I use automotive jumper cables to bypass the starter and try to spin the starter/solenoid directly? The engine is a Volvo 2002 18HP Thanks in advance for the advice, Mark There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval. - George Santayana ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating
Re: Stus-List Starting Problem
I just had same issue. Started at the ignition switch and worked toward engine. It was the slide on connector on the solenoid. Apparently I'd knocked it loose while working near it. Just remember, voltage does not mean the amperage will happen. Speaking of engines, here's what I'm working on this weekend: http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/heat_exchanger I hope Touche's exchanger doesn't have as many zinc pieces as this one. I'm seeing 5-10 degrees of overheat right now at high rpm. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Tue, Jun 7, 2016 at 1:42 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Thanks for all the feedback. > > I'll me digging out my multimeter and heading down to the boat this > weekend. I now realize that I don't think the engine vent fan turned on > when I turned the key (my lights on the panel are rather intermittent and > my engine overheat buzzer has never worked, plus the tach is intermittent > -- so good chance that the wiring harness is the culprit). > > I'll check the fuses on the engine and see if I can find the ground wires. > > No glow plug to deal with. > > I've also been advised to check the "neutral kill swtich" (stops you from > starting engine in gear) and the "oil pressure kill switch" - not sure > where those are so I'll have to look at the engine manual. > > I'll see what I find and come back with more details if it's not working > > > Thanks, > > Mark > > There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval. > - George Santayana > > On 2016-06-06 12:12 AM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List wrote: > >> >> Stopped by the boat today planning to get prep'd for some work that need >> to get done. >> >> Figured I should kick the engine over just to make sure everything was >> running smoothly. Unfortunately I got nothing (absolutely nothing) from >> turning the key. >> >> >> Batteries seem fine. Able to run radio - and no visible dip in power to >> the radio when trying to turn over the engine. >> >> I had a similar experience a year ago after running the diesel for a few >> hours - wind came up and we sailed for a bit, but then couldn't re-start. >> That day I easily found a loose wire (clearly it had shaken loose with the >> engine running for a long period) off a clip on the starter solenoid (?). >> >> That was my first check today - but it was attached. Pulled it off to >> clean contact but no effect. >> >> >> I figure there are 3 possibilities >> >> 1- ignition key failure - no signal to the starter to kick over >> >> 2- starter/solenoid failure - I doubt this as I'd expect some type of >> noise or power dip indicating that something was seized >> >> 3- electrical connection failure - I can see a large wire leading to what >> I presume is the solenoid, plus a couple of smaller wires connected as >> well. Nothing obviously disconnected >> >> >> I need to head back down to the boat with a voltage meter - try to figure >> out what is going on and hopefully find an easy fix! >> >> >> Any advice is appreciated. I presume is the key is working them I'd get >> a voltage spike at the solenoid when the key is turned. If nothing then it >> suggests either 1 or 3. Where should I see that? >> >> I expect I'll pull the panel and check the contacts behind the ignition >> key - maybe try hot-wiring it if I can figure out which wires are needed >> >> Should I use automotive jumper cables to bypass the starter and try to >> spin the starter/solenoid directly? >> >> >> The engine is a Volvo 2002 18HP >> >> >> Thanks in advance for the advice, >> >> Mark >> >> There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval. >> - George Santayana >> >> >> ___ >> >> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you >> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All >> Contributions are greatly appreciated! >> >> > > ___ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you > like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All > Contributions are greatly appreciated! > ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Starting Problem
Thanks for all the feedback. I'll me digging out my multimeter and heading down to the boat this weekend. I now realize that I don't think the engine vent fan turned on when I turned the key (my lights on the panel are rather intermittent and my engine overheat buzzer has never worked, plus the tach is intermittent -- so good chance that the wiring harness is the culprit). I'll check the fuses on the engine and see if I can find the ground wires. No glow plug to deal with. I've also been advised to check the "neutral kill swtich" (stops you from starting engine in gear) and the "oil pressure kill switch" - not sure where those are so I'll have to look at the engine manual. I'll see what I find and come back with more details if it's not working Thanks, Mark There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval. - George Santayana On 2016-06-06 12:12 AM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List wrote: Stopped by the boat today planning to get prep'd for some work that need to get done. Figured I should kick the engine over just to make sure everything was running smoothly. Unfortunately I got nothing (absolutely nothing) from turning the key. Batteries seem fine. Able to run radio - and no visible dip in power to the radio when trying to turn over the engine. I had a similar experience a year ago after running the diesel for a few hours - wind came up and we sailed for a bit, but then couldn't re-start. That day I easily found a loose wire (clearly it had shaken loose with the engine running for a long period) off a clip on the starter solenoid (?). That was my first check today - but it was attached. Pulled it off to clean contact but no effect. I figure there are 3 possibilities 1- ignition key failure - no signal to the starter to kick over 2- starter/solenoid failure - I doubt this as I'd expect some type of noise or power dip indicating that something was seized 3- electrical connection failure - I can see a large wire leading to what I presume is the solenoid, plus a couple of smaller wires connected as well. Nothing obviously disconnected I need to head back down to the boat with a voltage meter - try to figure out what is going on and hopefully find an easy fix! Any advice is appreciated. I presume is the key is working them I'd get a voltage spike at the solenoid when the key is turned. If nothing then it suggests either 1 or 3. Where should I see that? I expect I'll pull the panel and check the contacts behind the ignition key - maybe try hot-wiring it if I can figure out which wires are needed Should I use automotive jumper cables to bypass the starter and try to spin the starter/solenoid directly? The engine is a Volvo 2002 18HP Thanks in advance for the advice, Mark There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval. - George Santayana ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Starting Problem
I second or third the ground! Had that problem for a few years. Engine was dead on the start button, until 3rd or 4th press and then would fire up suddenly. (2GM20F)Bad ground to the trans. case. Cleaned it up and all was fine.I eventually replaced all the battery cables with pre made cables and ends from Canadian Tire. After 35 years all the wire to end joints get a little suspect and the wire was not that good to start with - not tinned! Fore something like $35 and an hours work, I now get instant starts every time. sam :-)C 26 Liquorice Ghost Lake Alberta From: Dave Syer via CnC-ListSent: Monday, June 6, 2016 9:05 AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comCc: Dave SyerSubject: Re: Stus-List Starting ProblemCheck your grounds. Had what I thought was a dead tach and it was a corroded ground connection where the main harness from the engine control panel grounded via a ring terminal on a stud to the engine. This should be a maintenance item...Dave -- Message: 1 Date: Mon, 6 Jun 2016 12:20:33 + From: Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com> To: "C List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Subject: Re: Stus-List Starting Problem Message-ID: <ca+zacraog0mc07h4apnzdeo2kxhv_gfjlpgtm+exkwselmc...@mail.gmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" I made a video that walks through the starting circuit on my yanmar. Its pretty generic, maybe it will help. https://youtu.be/Mp2cGDa1VOU Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD On Jun 5, 2016 11:13 PM, "Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List" < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Stopped by the boat today planning to get prep'd for some work that need > to get done. > > Figured I should kick the engine over just to make sure everything was > running smoothly. Unfortunately I got nothing (absolutely nothing) from > turning the key. > > > Batteries seem fine. Able to run radio - and no visible dip in power to > the radio when trying to turn over the engine. > > I had a similar experience a year ago after running the diesel for a few > hours - wind came up and we sailed for a bit, but then couldn't re-start. > That day I easily found a loose wire (clearly it had shaken loose with the > engine running for a long period) off a clip on the starter solenoid (?). > > That was my first check today - but it was attached. Pulled it off to > clean contact but no effect. > > > I figure there are 3 possibilities > > 1- ignition key failure - no signal to the starter to kick over > > 2- starter/solenoid failure - I doubt this as I'd expect some type of > noise or power dip indicating that something was seized > > 3- electrical connection failure - I can see a large wire leading to what > I presume is the solenoid, plus a couple of smaller wires connected as > well. Nothing obviously disconnected > > > I need to head back down to the boat with a voltage meter - try to figure > out what is going on and hopefully find an easy fix! > > > Any advice is appreciated. I presume is the key is working them I'd get a > voltage spike at the solenoid when the key is turned. If nothing then it > suggests either 1 or 3. Where should I see that? > > ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Starting Problem
Check your grounds. Had what I thought was a dead tach and it was a corroded ground connection where the main harness from the engine control panel grounded via a ring terminal on a stud to the engine. This should be a maintenance item... Dave > -- > > Message: 1 > Date: Mon, 6 Jun 2016 12:20:33 + > From: Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com> > To: "C List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Starting Problem > Message-ID: > < > ca+zacraog0mc07h4apnzdeo2kxhv_gfjlpgtm+exkwselmc...@mail.gmail.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > I made a video that walks through the starting circuit on my yanmar. Its > pretty generic, maybe it will help. > > https://youtu.be/Mp2cGDa1VOU > > Josh Muckley > S/V Sea Hawk > 1989 C 37+ > Solomons, MD > On Jun 5, 2016 11:13 PM, "Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List" < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > > > > Stopped by the boat today planning to get prep'd for some work that need > > to get done. > > > > Figured I should kick the engine over just to make sure everything was > > running smoothly. Unfortunately I got nothing (absolutely nothing) from > > turning the key. > > > > > > Batteries seem fine. Able to run radio - and no visible dip in power to > > the radio when trying to turn over the engine. > > > > I had a similar experience a year ago after running the diesel for a few > > hours - wind came up and we sailed for a bit, but then couldn't re-start. > > That day I easily found a loose wire (clearly it had shaken loose with > the > > engine running for a long period) off a clip on the starter solenoid (?). > > > > That was my first check today - but it was attached. Pulled it off to > > clean contact but no effect. > > > > > > I figure there are 3 possibilities > > > > 1- ignition key failure - no signal to the starter to kick over > > > > 2- starter/solenoid failure - I doubt this as I'd expect some type of > > noise or power dip indicating that something was seized > > > > 3- electrical connection failure - I can see a large wire leading to what > > I presume is the solenoid, plus a couple of smaller wires connected as > > well. Nothing obviously disconnected > > > > > > I need to head back down to the boat with a voltage meter - try to figure > > out what is going on and hopefully find an easy fix! > > > > > > Any advice is appreciated. I presume is the key is working them I'd get > a > > voltage spike at the solenoid when the key is turned. If nothing then it > > suggests either 1 or 3. Where should I see that? > > > > > ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Starting Problem
Also ground cable to engine/transmission case can cause it. Or if yanmar the fuse on the engine can become corrode. Mine developed a break in the fuse holder and needed replacing Sent from my Samsung device Original message From: Douglas Mountjoy via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Date: 2016-06-06 03:44 (GMT-04:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Douglas Mountjoy <svpegasu...@gmail.com> Subject: Re: Stus-List Starting Problem I would suggest checking for power (12v) at the small wire on the solenoid with the ignition switch in the start position. This will tell you if the switch and wiring is ok. Use a test light if you have one. The test light will put a small load on the circuit, where as a volt meter will not. Another quick test is to short between the battery hot at solenoid and the small wire terminal and see if it turns over. Good luck Doug Mountjoy Pegasus LF 38 hull #4 Ballard WA. Sent from my iPad > On Jun 5, 2016, at 8:12 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List > <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > > Stopped by the boat today planning to get prep'd for some work that need to > get done. > > Figured I should kick the engine over just to make sure everything was > running smoothly. Unfortunately I got nothing (absolutely nothing) from > turning the key. > > > Batteries seem fine. Able to run radio - and no visible dip in power to the > radio when trying to turn over the engine. > > I had a similar experience a year ago after running the diesel for a few > hours - wind came up and we sailed for a bit, but then couldn't re-start. > That day I easily found a loose wire (clearly it had shaken loose with the > engine running for a long period) off a clip on the starter solenoid (?). > > That was my first check today - but it was attached. Pulled it off to clean > contact but no effect. > > > I figure there are 3 possibilities > > 1- ignition key failure - no signal to the starter to kick over > > 2- starter/solenoid failure - I doubt this as I'd expect some type of noise > or power dip indicating that something was seized > > 3- electrical connection failure - I can see a large wire leading to what I > presume is the solenoid, plus a couple of smaller wires connected as well. > Nothing obviously disconnected > > > I need to head back down to the boat with a voltage meter - try to figure out > what is going on and hopefully find an easy fix! > > > Any advice is appreciated. I presume is the key is working them I'd get a > voltage spike at the solenoid when the key is turned. If nothing then it > suggests either 1 or 3. Where should I see that? > > I expect I'll pull the panel and check the contacts behind the ignition key - > maybe try hot-wiring it if I can figure out which wires are needed > > Should I use automotive jumper cables to bypass the starter and try to spin > the starter/solenoid directly? > > > The engine is a Volvo 2002 18HP > > > Thanks in advance for the advice, > > Mark > > There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval. > - George Santayana > > > ___ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like > what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions > are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Starting Problem
Mark, not that I suggest that this might be the case, but these taught me not to assume anything... I had two experiences of “nothing happening” with the engine on this boat. The first one was my first try after I bought it and winterised it. The first start in the spring, I press the start button and nothing happens. My sequence was: battery switch to 1, ignition switch to glow plugs (spring loaded), hold it for 10 s, let it go (the key in the “on” position), press starter switch. Nothing happens. Our local diesel mechanic (after troubleshooting for a while) pointed that my sequence was wrong – I need to hold the key in the “glow plugs” position, when the engine is starting (or the starter motor is not energised). Hard learned lesson 1. Lesson 2. This spring commissioning. I leave the batteries on the boat, but I disconnect the cables (both plus and minus). So in the spring, I connected all cables that I could see correctly, checked that all lights and instruments are working properly. When it was time to check the engine (I usually run it on the hard before launching), nothing. No power to the blower, the panel is not energised (e.g. the fuel gauge is not showing anything). When I turn the key and press the starter motor, the fuel gauge hand flies to the right (more than full). Turns out that the negative cable to the motor (and starter) was disconnected and it fell behind the batteries, so there was no visible clue. Interestingly a friend with the exact same boat had the same problem about 2 h before. It was the only part that made me feel a bit better. At least, this lesson did not cost me much. Simply tying to say that if it worked before, it must be some simple problem. The worst case scenario, trace the wiring. Marek Ottawa, ON From: Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List Sent: Sunday, June 5, 2016 23:13 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Dr. Mark Bodnar Subject: Stus-List Starting Problem Stopped by the boat today planning to get prep'd for some work that need to get done. Figured I should kick the engine over just to make sure everything was running smoothly. Unfortunately I got nothing (absolutely nothing) from turning the key. Batteries seem fine. Able to run radio - and no visible dip in power to the radio when trying to turn over the engine. I had a similar experience a year ago after running the diesel for a few hours - wind came up and we sailed for a bit, but then couldn't re-start. That day I easily found a loose wire (clearly it had shaken loose with the engine running for a long period) off a clip on the starter solenoid (?). That was my first check today - but it was attached. Pulled it off to clean contact but no effect. I figure there are 3 possibilities 1- ignition key failure - no signal to the starter to kick over 2- starter/solenoid failure - I doubt this as I'd expect some type of noise or power dip indicating that something was seized 3- electrical connection failure - I can see a large wire leading to what I presume is the solenoid, plus a couple of smaller wires connected as well. Nothing obviously disconnected I need to head back down to the boat with a voltage meter - try to figure out what is going on and hopefully find an easy fix! Any advice is appreciated. I presume is the key is working them I'd get a voltage spike at the solenoid when the key is turned. If nothing then it suggests either 1 or 3. Where should I see that? I expect I'll pull the panel and check the contacts behind the ignition key - maybe try hot-wiring it if I can figure out which wires are needed Should I use automotive jumper cables to bypass the starter and try to spin the starter/solenoid directly? The engine is a Volvo 2002 18HP Thanks in advance for the advice, Mark There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval. - George Santayana ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Starting Problem
I made a video that walks through the starting circuit on my yanmar. Its pretty generic, maybe it will help. https://youtu.be/Mp2cGDa1VOU Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD On Jun 5, 2016 11:13 PM, "Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List" < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Stopped by the boat today planning to get prep'd for some work that need > to get done. > > Figured I should kick the engine over just to make sure everything was > running smoothly. Unfortunately I got nothing (absolutely nothing) from > turning the key. > > > Batteries seem fine. Able to run radio - and no visible dip in power to > the radio when trying to turn over the engine. > > I had a similar experience a year ago after running the diesel for a few > hours - wind came up and we sailed for a bit, but then couldn't re-start. > That day I easily found a loose wire (clearly it had shaken loose with the > engine running for a long period) off a clip on the starter solenoid (?). > > That was my first check today - but it was attached. Pulled it off to > clean contact but no effect. > > > I figure there are 3 possibilities > > 1- ignition key failure - no signal to the starter to kick over > > 2- starter/solenoid failure - I doubt this as I'd expect some type of > noise or power dip indicating that something was seized > > 3- electrical connection failure - I can see a large wire leading to what > I presume is the solenoid, plus a couple of smaller wires connected as > well. Nothing obviously disconnected > > > I need to head back down to the boat with a voltage meter - try to figure > out what is going on and hopefully find an easy fix! > > > Any advice is appreciated. I presume is the key is working them I'd get a > voltage spike at the solenoid when the key is turned. If nothing then it > suggests either 1 or 3. Where should I see that? > > I expect I'll pull the panel and check the contacts behind the ignition > key - maybe try hot-wiring it if I can figure out which wires are needed > > Should I use automotive jumper cables to bypass the starter and try to > spin the starter/solenoid directly? > > > The engine is a Volvo 2002 18HP > > > Thanks in advance for the advice, > > Mark > > There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval. > - George Santayana > > > ___ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you > like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All > Contributions are greatly appreciated! > ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Starting Problem
I would suggest checking for power (12v) at the small wire on the solenoid with the ignition switch in the start position. This will tell you if the switch and wiring is ok. Use a test light if you have one. The test light will put a small load on the circuit, where as a volt meter will not. Another quick test is to short between the battery hot at solenoid and the small wire terminal and see if it turns over. Good luck Doug Mountjoy Pegasus LF 38 hull #4 Ballard WA. Sent from my iPad > On Jun 5, 2016, at 8:12 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List >wrote: > > > Stopped by the boat today planning to get prep'd for some work that need to > get done. > > Figured I should kick the engine over just to make sure everything was > running smoothly. Unfortunately I got nothing (absolutely nothing) from > turning the key. > > > Batteries seem fine. Able to run radio - and no visible dip in power to the > radio when trying to turn over the engine. > > I had a similar experience a year ago after running the diesel for a few > hours - wind came up and we sailed for a bit, but then couldn't re-start. > That day I easily found a loose wire (clearly it had shaken loose with the > engine running for a long period) off a clip on the starter solenoid (?). > > That was my first check today - but it was attached. Pulled it off to clean > contact but no effect. > > > I figure there are 3 possibilities > > 1- ignition key failure - no signal to the starter to kick over > > 2- starter/solenoid failure - I doubt this as I'd expect some type of noise > or power dip indicating that something was seized > > 3- electrical connection failure - I can see a large wire leading to what I > presume is the solenoid, plus a couple of smaller wires connected as well. > Nothing obviously disconnected > > > I need to head back down to the boat with a voltage meter - try to figure out > what is going on and hopefully find an easy fix! > > > Any advice is appreciated. I presume is the key is working them I'd get a > voltage spike at the solenoid when the key is turned. If nothing then it > suggests either 1 or 3. Where should I see that? > > I expect I'll pull the panel and check the contacts behind the ignition key - > maybe try hot-wiring it if I can figure out which wires are needed > > Should I use automotive jumper cables to bypass the starter and try to spin > the starter/solenoid directly? > > > The engine is a Volvo 2002 18HP > > > Thanks in advance for the advice, > > Mark > > There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval. > - George Santayana > > > ___ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like > what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions > are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Stus-List Starting Problem
Stopped by the boat today planning to get prep'd for some work that need to get done. Figured I should kick the engine over just to make sure everything was running smoothly. Unfortunately I got nothing (absolutely nothing) from turning the key. Batteries seem fine. Able to run radio - and no visible dip in power to the radio when trying to turn over the engine. I had a similar experience a year ago after running the diesel for a few hours - wind came up and we sailed for a bit, but then couldn't re-start. That day I easily found a loose wire (clearly it had shaken loose with the engine running for a long period) off a clip on the starter solenoid (?). That was my first check today - but it was attached. Pulled it off to clean contact but no effect. I figure there are 3 possibilities 1- ignition key failure - no signal to the starter to kick over 2- starter/solenoid failure - I doubt this as I'd expect some type of noise or power dip indicating that something was seized 3- electrical connection failure - I can see a large wire leading to what I presume is the solenoid, plus a couple of smaller wires connected as well. Nothing obviously disconnected I need to head back down to the boat with a voltage meter - try to figure out what is going on and hopefully find an easy fix! Any advice is appreciated. I presume is the key is working them I'd get a voltage spike at the solenoid when the key is turned. If nothing then it suggests either 1 or 3. Where should I see that? I expect I'll pull the panel and check the contacts behind the ignition key - maybe try hot-wiring it if I can figure out which wires are needed Should I use automotive jumper cables to bypass the starter and try to spin the starter/solenoid directly? The engine is a Volvo 2002 18HP Thanks in advance for the advice, Mark There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval. - George Santayana ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!