Re: Stus-List removing prop shaft coupling - how?

2014-05-19 Thread Peter Fell via CnC-List
Excellent!

And good catch!

From: Nate Flesness 
Sent: Sunday, May 18, 2014 12:31 PM
To: Peter Fell ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List removing prop shaft coupling - how?

Thanks to all - a small wheel puller plate with the right bolts let us get 
the coupler off the shaft, much like several helpful suggesions. REALLY GLAD I 
did this, pulled off the 34 yr old aging stiff packing gland hose and found it 
just barely covered a small hole in the boat - unusually poor fiberglass work 
around the stern tube plus (I'd guess) the edge of an old clamp chipped through 
a small spot at the forward end of the stern tube - hard to see, but a hole in 
the boat. Epoxy and glass work fixed it. Reassembly delayed to let it cure, but 
whew 

Nate
Sarah Jean
1980 30-1
Siskiwit Bay, Lake Superior
with very little ice left floating around...







On Fri, May 16, 2014 at 6:36 PM, Peter Fell via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

  I’m getting set up to do the same thing and from my investigations and 
discussions with local marine mechanics, I’ve determined:

  1) The coupling would be a tolerance fit. 
  2) Cutting the old coupling off is the quickest method  and you should do 
that at the keyway to minimize the potential for scoring the shaft itself. 
Otherwise a plate made-up with the same bolt pattern as the coupling and a 
rachet socket placed between the plate and the coupling + bolts through the 
plate and coupling can be used to press the coupling off.
  3) Regardless of how you take it off, replace the coupling and take the shaft 
and new coupling it to a machinist to have a fit-and-face done on it and the 
shaft checked for straightness.
  4) Might as well plan on doing the cutlass bearing at the same time. 

  An old coupling would not have a tight fit on the shaft and the shaft torque 
would be taken up only by the shaft key  shear that and the shaft backs out 
of the stuffing box and then you’d get to test out how good your bilge pump is.

  Peter Fell
  Sidney, BC
  CC 27 MkIII


  From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
  Sent: Friday, May 16, 2014 2:01 PM
  To: Graham Collins ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Subject: Re: Stus-List removing prop shaft coupling - how?

  If all else fails, cut it in half and buy a new one. :)

  Dennis C.
  Touché 35-1 #83
  Mandeville, LA

  Sent from my iPhone

  On May 16, 2014, at 3:36 PM, Graham Collins via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:


I used a 3 arm puller, PB blaster, a blowtorch, and the largest wrench I 
could fit on the puller, with a pipe on that as an extension.  I had a 12 
adjustable wrench wedged in to keep the shaft from turning (the puller would 
have turned with it).  The adjustable wrench now has a very impressive bend to 
it, and it took a fair bit of heat and force to get off.  Hopefully yours isn't 
that difficult.  And as Mainsail says in his blog, easiest way is to cut it 
off...  if time is money, go that route.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
CC 35-III #11On 2014-05-16 11:52 AM, Nate Flesness via CnC-List wrote:

  I need to replace the stuffing box hose. Boat (30-1) is on the hard and I 
have the new Buck Algonquin hose, new packing, new clamps. Anyone have advice 
re removal of the forward prop shaft coupling? It is disconnected from the 
transmission and I've pulled the prop shaft aft, so there is some clearance 
between the couplings. The pbase website suggests that these couplings may be 
press fit (as in machine shop press) PB blaster applied, light taps with 
mallet do nothing so far, considering heating it with a torch? 

  Nate
  Sarah Jean
  1980 30-1
  Siskiwit Bay Marine
  Lake Superior
  (with floating ice chunks mid-May.!)

   

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Re: Stus-List removing prop shaft coupling - how?

2014-05-18 Thread Nate Flesness via CnC-List
Thanks to all - a small wheel puller plate with the right bolts let us
get the coupler off the shaft, much like several helpful suggesions. REALLY
GLAD I did this, pulled off the 34 yr old aging stiff packing gland hose
and found it just barely covered a small hole in the boat - unusually poor
fiberglass work around the stern tube plus (I'd guess) the edge of an old
clamp chipped through a small spot at the forward end of the stern tube -
hard to see, but a hole in the boat. Epoxy and glass work fixed it.
Reassembly delayed to let it cure, but whew

Nate
Sarah Jean
1980 30-1
Siskiwit Bay, Lake Superior
with very little ice left floating around...






On Fri, May 16, 2014 at 6:36 PM, Peter Fell via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

   I’m getting set up to do the same thing and from my investigations and
 discussions with local marine mechanics, I’ve determined:

 1) The coupling would be a tolerance fit.
 2) Cutting the old coupling off is the quickest method  and you should
 do that at the keyway to minimize the potential for scoring the shaft
 itself. Otherwise a plate made-up with the same bolt pattern as the
 coupling and a rachet socket placed between the plate and the coupling +
 bolts through the plate and coupling can be used to press the coupling off.
 3) Regardless of how you take it off, replace the coupling and take the
 shaft and new coupling it to a machinist to have a fit-and-face done on it
 and the shaft checked for straightness.
 4) Might as well plan on doing the cutlass bearing at the same time.

 An old coupling would not have a tight fit on the shaft and the shaft
 torque would be taken up only by the shaft key  shear that and the
 shaft backs out of the stuffing box and then you’d get to test out how good
 your bilge pump is.

 Peter Fell
 Sidney, BC
 CC 27 MkIII


  *From:* Dennis C. via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *Sent:* Friday, May 16, 2014 2:01 PM
 *To:* Graham Collins cnclistforw...@hotmail.com ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *Subject:* Re: Stus-List removing prop shaft coupling - how?

  If all else fails, cut it in half and buy a new one. :)

 Dennis C.
 Touché 35-1 #83
 Mandeville, LA

 Sent from my iPhone

 On May 16, 2014, at 3:36 PM, Graham Collins via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

  I used a 3 arm puller, PB blaster, a blowtorch, and the largest wrench I
 could fit on the puller, with a pipe on that as an extension.  I had a 12
 adjustable wrench wedged in to keep the shaft from turning (the puller
 would have turned with it).  The adjustable wrench now has a very
 impressive bend to it, and it took a fair bit of heat and force to get
 off.  Hopefully yours isn't that difficult.  And as Mainsail says in his
 blog, easiest way is to cut it off...  if time is money, go that route.

 Graham Collins
 Secret Plans
 CC 35-III #11

 On 2014-05-16 11:52 AM, Nate Flesness via CnC-List wrote:

 I need to replace the stuffing box hose. Boat (30-1) is on the hard and I
 have the new Buck Algonquin hose, new packing, new clamps. Anyone have
 advice re removal of the forward prop shaft coupling? It is disconnected
 from the transmission and I've pulled the prop shaft aft, so there is some
 clearance between the couplings. The pbase website suggests that these
 couplings may be press fit (as in machine shop press) PB blaster
 applied, light taps with mallet do nothing so far, considering heating it
 with a torch?

 Nate
 Sarah Jean
 1980 30-1
 Siskiwit Bay Marine
 Lake Superior
 (with floating ice chunks mid-May.!)


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Stus-List removing prop shaft coupling - how?

2014-05-16 Thread Nate Flesness via CnC-List
I need to replace the stuffing box hose. Boat (30-1) is on the hard and I
have the new Buck Algonquin hose, new packing, new clamps. Anyone have
advice re removal of the forward prop shaft coupling? It is disconnected
from the transmission and I've pulled the prop shaft aft, so there is some
clearance between the couplings. The pbase website suggests that these
couplings may be press fit (as in machine shop press) PB blaster
applied, light taps with mallet do nothing so far, considering heating it
with a torch?

Nate
Sarah Jean
1980 30-1
Siskiwit Bay Marine
Lake Superior
(with floating ice chunks mid-May.!)
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Re: Stus-List removing prop shaft coupling - how?

2014-05-16 Thread via CnC-List
Some people have had success by positioning a nut that is smaller than the prop 
shaft, in between the coupling and then using the coupling bolts to force the 
prop shaft out. A suitable piece of sheet metal on the transmission side will 
ensure that the right shaft gets dislodged. 
 
Steve Thomas
CC27 MKIII 
 
Date: Fri, 16 May 2014 09:52:13 -0500
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List removing prop shaft coupling - how?
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

I need to replace the stuffing box hose. Boat (30-1) is on the hard and I have 
the new Buck Algonquin hose, new packing, new clamps. Anyone have advice re 
removal of the forward prop shaft coupling? It is disconnected from the 
transmission and I've pulled the prop shaft aft, so there is some clearance 
between the couplings. The pbase website suggests that these couplings may be 
press fit (as in machine shop press) PB blaster applied, light taps with 
mallet do nothing so far, considering heating it with a torch?


NateSarah Jean1980 30-1Siskiwit Bay MarineLake Superior(with floating ice 
chunks mid-May.!)

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Re: Stus-List removing prop shaft coupling - how?

2014-05-16 Thread Josh Muckley via CnC-List
Then to save the trouble next time, get a split coupling for the shaft.
On May 16, 2014 11:10 AM, via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Some people have had success by positioning a nut that is smaller than the
 prop shaft, in between the coupling and then using the coupling bolts to
 force the prop shaft out. A suitable piece of sheet metal on
 the transmission side will ensure that the right shaft gets dislodged.

 Steve Thomas
 CC27 MKIII

 --
 Date: Fri, 16 May 2014 09:52:13 -0500
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Stus-List removing prop shaft coupling - how?
 From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

 I need to replace the stuffing box hose. Boat (30-1) is on the hard and I
 have the new Buck Algonquin hose, new packing, new clamps. Anyone have
 advice re removal of the forward prop shaft coupling? It is disconnected
 from the transmission and I've pulled the prop shaft aft, so there is some
 clearance between the couplings. The pbase website suggests that these
 couplings may be press fit (as in machine shop press) PB blaster
 applied, light taps with mallet do nothing so far, considering heating it
 with a torch?

 Nate
 Sarah Jean
 1980 30-1
 Siskiwit Bay Marine
 Lake Superior
 (with floating ice chunks mid-May.!)

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Re: Stus-List removing prop shaft coupling - how?

2014-05-16 Thread Joel Aronson via CnC-List
Nate,

This has come up before.  I think the best advice (not mine) was to put a
socket slightly smaller than the shaft against the end of the shaft and
tighten the bolts on the coupling to force out the shaft.

Joel.


On Fri, May 16, 2014 at 10:52 AM, Nate Flesness via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 I need to replace the stuffing box hose. Boat (30-1) is on the hard and I
 have the new Buck Algonquin hose, new packing, new clamps. Anyone have
 advice re removal of the forward prop shaft coupling? It is disconnected
 from the transmission and I've pulled the prop shaft aft, so there is some
 clearance between the couplings. The pbase website suggests that these
 couplings may be press fit (as in machine shop press) PB blaster
 applied, light taps with mallet do nothing so far, considering heating it
 with a torch?

 Nate
 Sarah Jean
 1980 30-1
 Siskiwit Bay Marine
 Lake Superior
 (with floating ice chunks mid-May.!)

 ___
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 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List removing prop shaft coupling - how?

2014-05-16 Thread Michael Brown via CnC-List
Can be a tough job. On Windburn I pulled the shaft a couple of years ago ensure
it could be removed in the water if it every was required.

On my CC 30-1 the dimensions are:

Shaft - 7/8 diameter
Coupling - 3 1/2 outside diameter, three bolt holes
Coupling - 1 5/8 inside machined cavity - 5/8 deep

I had to use the bolts on the coupling to break the shaft free. I made up a 
spacer
with 5 heavy washers, 1 7/16 outside diameter and 1/2 hole. I put a 1 1/2 
long bolt
through it and a nut just flush with the bolt end. Outside diameter of the bolt 
head
and nut was just under 7/8. The assembly mated squarely with both the shaft and
back of the engine and the washers held everything in position.

The shaft was noticeably frozen in place. I had cleaned and oiled the coupling
bolts and they still required significant torque to get the shaft moving.

I think the use of a socket is fine as long as you can be 100% sure it is in 
place
and the forces are not too high.

I believe the problem I was having may have been caused by the set screw forcing
a lip of metal up that was binding all the way out. I drilled a small 
depression into
the shaft after it was out and made a matching round on the front of the set 
screw.
I did a trial fit with the set screw tightened. When I took it apart by hand a 
firm
pull and taps from a plastic mallet was enough.

Two years later ( last winter ) I pulled the shaft and replaced the stuffing. 
Shaft
came out without any requirement of special language this time.

I am impressed by the Johnson Duramax stuffing. Previously the slightest 
tightening
of the stuffing box stopped all water flow, and the most minute loosening that I
could do would drip constantly even at rest. The new stuffing allows a range of
drip rates to be adjusted.

Michael Brown
Windburn
CC 30-1



Date: Fri, 16 May 2014 11:16:39 -0400 
From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
To: Nate Flesness nateflesn...@gmail.com,     cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
     cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List removing prop shaft coupling - how? 
Message-ID: 
     CAEL16P_Y-sXjpmoJk9GwLmfu_Pi3=Yxjuzouz=1yvpjvnul...@mail.gmail.com 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 
 
Nate, 
 
This has come up before.  I think the best advice (not mine) was to put a 
socket slightly smaller than the shaft against the end of the shaft and 
tighten the bolts on the coupling to force out the shaft. 
 
Joel. 
 
 
On Fri, May 16, 2014 at 10:52 AM, Nate Flesness via CnC-List  
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: 
 
 I need to replace the stuffing box hose. Boat (30-1) is on the hard and I 
 have the new Buck Algonquin hose, new packing, new clamps. Anyone have 
 advice re removal of the forward prop shaft coupling? It is disconnected 
 from the transmission and I've pulled the prop shaft aft, so there is some 
 clearance between the couplings. The pbase website suggests that these 
 couplings may be press fit (as in machine shop press) PB blaster 
 applied, light taps with mallet do nothing so far, considering heating it 
 with a torch? 
 
 Nate 
 Sarah Jean 
 1980 30-1 
 Siskiwit Bay Marine 
 Lake Superior 
 (with floating ice chunks mid-May.!) 
 
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--  
Joel 
301 541 8551 

* 
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Re: Stus-List removing prop shaft coupling - how?

2014-05-16 Thread Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List
a word of caution – be very careful with how you tighten the nuts. It never 
happened to me, but I read of people who managed to deform the coupling (on the 
transmission) in the process.

Marek

From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, May 16, 2014 11:16 AM
To: Nate Flesness ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List removing prop shaft coupling - how?

Nate, 

This has come up before.  I think the best advice (not mine) was to put a 
socket slightly smaller than the shaft against the end of the shaft and tighten 
the bolts on the coupling to force out the shaft.

Joel.



On Fri, May 16, 2014 at 10:52 AM, Nate Flesness via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

  I need to replace the stuffing box hose. Boat (30-1) is on the hard and I 
have the new Buck Algonquin hose, new packing, new clamps. Anyone have advice 
re removal of the forward prop shaft coupling? It is disconnected from the 
transmission and I've pulled the prop shaft aft, so there is some clearance 
between the couplings. The pbase website suggests that these couplings may be 
press fit (as in machine shop press) PB blaster applied, light taps with 
mallet do nothing so far, considering heating it with a torch? 

  Nate
  Sarah Jean
  1980 30-1
  Siskiwit Bay Marine
  Lake Superior
  (with floating ice chunks mid-May.!)

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-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551 



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Re: Stus-List removing prop shaft coupling - how?

2014-05-16 Thread Ken Heaton via CnC-List
Maine Sail has written about this:

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/new_shaft

Ken H.


On 16 May 2014 12:16, Josh Muckley via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.comwrote:

 Then to save the trouble next time, get a split coupling for the shaft.
 On May 16, 2014 11:10 AM, via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Some people have had success by positioning a nut that is smaller than
 the prop shaft, in between the coupling and then using the coupling bolts
 to force the prop shaft out. A suitable piece of sheet metal on
 the transmission side will ensure that the right shaft gets dislodged.

 Steve Thomas
 CC27 MKIII

 --
 Date: Fri, 16 May 2014 09:52:13 -0500
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Stus-List removing prop shaft coupling - how?
 From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

 I need to replace the stuffing box hose. Boat (30-1) is on the hard and I
 have the new Buck Algonquin hose, new packing, new clamps. Anyone have
 advice re removal of the forward prop shaft coupling? It is disconnected
 from the transmission and I've pulled the prop shaft aft, so there is some
 clearance between the couplings. The pbase website suggests that these
 couplings may be press fit (as in machine shop press) PB blaster
 applied, light taps with mallet do nothing so far, considering heating it
 with a torch?

 Nate
 Sarah Jean
 1980 30-1
 Siskiwit Bay Marine
 Lake Superior
 (with floating ice chunks mid-May.!)

 ___ This List is provided by
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Re: Stus-List removing prop shaft coupling - how?

2014-05-16 Thread Graham Collins via CnC-List
I used a 3 arm puller, PB blaster, a blowtorch, and the largest wrench I 
could fit on the puller, with a pipe on that as an extension.  I had a 
12 adjustable wrench wedged in to keep the shaft from turning (the 
puller would have turned with it).  The adjustable wrench now has a very 
impressive bend to it, and it took a fair bit of heat and force to get 
off. Hopefully yours isn't that difficult.  And as Mainsail says in his 
blog, easiest way is to cut it off...  if time is money, go that route.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
CC 35-III #11

On 2014-05-16 11:52 AM, Nate Flesness via CnC-List wrote:
I need to replace the stuffing box hose. Boat (30-1) is on the hard 
and I have the new Buck Algonquin hose, new packing, new clamps. 
Anyone have advice re removal of the forward prop shaft coupling? It 
is disconnected from the transmission and I've pulled the prop shaft 
aft, so there is some clearance between the couplings. The pbase 
website suggests that these couplings may be press fit (as in machine 
shop press) PB blaster applied, light taps with mallet do nothing 
so far, considering heating it with a torch?


Nate
Sarah Jean
1980 30-1
Siskiwit Bay Marine
Lake Superior
(with floating ice chunks mid-May.!)


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Re: Stus-List removing prop shaft coupling - how?

2014-05-16 Thread Dennis C. via CnC-List
If all else fails, cut it in half and buy a new one. :)

Dennis C.
Touché 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

Sent from my iPhone

 On May 16, 2014, at 3:36 PM, Graham Collins via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 I used a 3 arm puller, PB blaster, a blowtorch, and the largest wrench I 
 could fit on the puller, with a pipe on that as an extension.  I had a 12 
 adjustable wrench wedged in to keep the shaft from turning (the puller would 
 have turned with it).  The adjustable wrench now has a very impressive bend 
 to it, and it took a fair bit of heat and force to get off.  Hopefully yours 
 isn't that difficult.  And as Mainsail says in his   blog, easiest way is 
 to cut it off...  if time is money, go that route.
 Graham Collins
 Secret Plans
 CC 35-III #11
 On 2014-05-16 11:52 AM, Nate Flesness via CnC-List wrote:
 I need to replace the stuffing box hose. Boat (30-1) is on the hard and I 
 have the new Buck Algonquin hose, new packing, new clamps. Anyone have 
 advice re removal of the forward prop shaft coupling? It is disconnected 
 from the transmission and I've pulled the prop shaft aft, so there is some 
 clearance between the couplings. The pbase website suggests that these 
 couplings may be press fit (as in machine shop press) PB blaster 
 applied, light taps with mallet do nothing so far, considering heating it 
 with a torch?
 
 Nate
 Sarah Jean
 1980 30-1
 Siskiwit Bay Marine
 Lake Superior
 (with floating ice chunks mid-May.!)
 
 
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Re: Stus-List removing prop shaft coupling - how?

2014-05-16 Thread Peter Fell via CnC-List
I’m getting set up to do the same thing and from my investigations and 
discussions with local marine mechanics, I’ve determined:

1) The coupling would be a tolerance fit. 
2) Cutting the old coupling off is the quickest method  and you should do 
that at the keyway to minimize the potential for scoring the shaft itself. 
Otherwise a plate made-up with the same bolt pattern as the coupling and a 
rachet socket placed between the plate and the coupling + bolts through the 
plate and coupling can be used to press the coupling off.
3) Regardless of how you take it off, replace the coupling and take the shaft 
and new coupling it to a machinist to have a fit-and-face done on it and the 
shaft checked for straightness.
4) Might as well plan on doing the cutlass bearing at the same time. 

An old coupling would not have a tight fit on the shaft and the shaft torque 
would be taken up only by the shaft key  shear that and the shaft backs out 
of the stuffing box and then you’d get to test out how good your bilge pump is.

Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
CC 27 MkIII


From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, May 16, 2014 2:01 PM
To: Graham Collins ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List removing prop shaft coupling - how?

If all else fails, cut it in half and buy a new one. :)

Dennis C.
Touché 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

Sent from my iPhone

On May 16, 2014, at 3:36 PM, Graham Collins via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:


  I used a 3 arm puller, PB blaster, a blowtorch, and the largest wrench I 
could fit on the puller, with a pipe on that as an extension.  I had a 12 
adjustable wrench wedged in to keep the shaft from turning (the puller would 
have turned with it).  The adjustable wrench now has a very impressive bend to 
it, and it took a fair bit of heat and force to get off.  Hopefully yours isn't 
that difficult.  And as Mainsail says in his blog, easiest way is to cut it 
off...  if time is money, go that route.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
CC 35-III #11On 2014-05-16 11:52 AM, Nate Flesness via CnC-List wrote:

I need to replace the stuffing box hose. Boat (30-1) is on the hard and I 
have the new Buck Algonquin hose, new packing, new clamps. Anyone have advice 
re removal of the forward prop shaft coupling? It is disconnected from the 
transmission and I've pulled the prop shaft aft, so there is some clearance 
between the couplings. The pbase website suggests that these couplings may be 
press fit (as in machine shop press) PB blaster applied, light taps with 
mallet do nothing so far, considering heating it with a torch? 

Nate
Sarah Jean
1980 30-1
Siskiwit Bay Marine
Lake Superior
(with floating ice chunks mid-May.!)

 

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