[drakelist] Question on how to fireup a brand-new AC-3 never powered up last 40 years.

2005-06-07 Thread Bollini, Maurizio

Bollini, Maurizio [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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Good morning again,

I have an AC-3 in these conditions: brand new, never powered up last 40
years.

What do you suggest to do before beginning the fireup procedure ?
Do you suggest some components replacing? Which ones?

Then, how to do a proper fireup?

Thanks to share your experiences.

73 Maurizio, IZ2CED.

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RE: [drakelist] A question on restoring and improving an AC-4

2005-06-07 Thread K4GM-George

K4GM-George [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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Just buy and install the AC-4R sold by WB8VGE.  It replaces all parts with
solid state parts and bigger and better caps and resistors.  I have one and
it works great!  It takes about two hours to do the job the first time.

http://www.theheathkitshop.com/drakeac4rreplace.html

73, George K4GM

 
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Bollini, Maurizio
Sent: Tuesday, June 07, 2005 5:11 AM
To: drakelist@www.zerobeat.net
Subject: [drakelist] A question on restoring and improving an AC-4


Bollini, Maurizio [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist
gang
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Good morning to all,

I have two AC-4 in original conditions, in working order.

I'd like to restore these units before continue to use them as well make
a log of intervention (I plan to do this on all my Drake radios,
I think it is useful for me and could give added value in case they will
be selled. Lack of maintenance log is really a miss for me).

Back to my object, please find the following questions.

I have in mind not only to replace parts but also to improve the
reliability, if possible.

1) Which are the best replacement for rectification diode? In origin
they are B5G5.
a) could I use 1N4007 or BY255 ?
b) is there a better (I mean more robust) replacement ? To be
in the safest side possible.
c) for those in the HT section, which are in series, is there a
need to put a resistor in parallel ? Reason? Which value/power ?

2) Resistors
a) does it make sense to replace them same value increasing the
power rating?
b) R3=100 Ohm on the 250V section
i) does it make sense to replace this with a coil of
proper value to improve filtering?

3) Capacitors
a) does it make sense to increase the capacity to improve
filtering (not so much to avoid an high peak current at sturtup and make
a disaster...)

Sorry if my questions are so basic and maybe already covered more than
once before.

I'll read with interest your worthy comments and experiences.

73 Maurizio, IZ2CED


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[drakelist] L-7, Loose Band Switch Shaft

2005-06-07 Thread Kevin Nathan



Hi All,
The band switch on my L-7 has been getting looser and looser with more 
play in it. Sunday afternoon I decided to tighten the knob but when I just 
slightly pulled on the knob, it and the shaft came out. I got the shaft 
back in and can turn the switch but obviously, this isn't something I want to 
continue very long. Right now there is at least a half inch play in the 
knob.

I am totally blind. How difficult is it to get to the mechanical 
connector inside the RF deck for the band switch to tighten it? What tool 
will I need to do that? Is it something I can do easily or should I seek a 
sighted friend to assist?
Thanks much for your thoughts. Very 73.
Kevin :)Amateur Radio: 
K7RXNavy Marine Corps MARS: NNN0SHS


Re: [drakelist] A question on restoring and improving an AC-4

2005-06-07 Thread Garey Barrell


Garey Barrell [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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Bollini, Maurizio wrote:


Bollini, Maurizio [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Good morning to all,

I have two AC-4 in original conditions, in working order.

I have in mind not only to replace parts but also to improve the
reliability, if possible.

1) Which are the best replacement for rectification diode? In origin
they are B5G5.
a) could I use 1N4007 or BY255 ?
b) is there a better (I mean more robust) replacement ? To be
in the safest side possible.
c) for those in the HT section, which are in series, is there a
need to put a resistor in parallel ? Reason? Which value/power ?

 

The B5G5 is a 600V PIV @ 1A diode.   The 1N4007 is a suitable 
replacement.  The 1N5408 is a more robust replacement, 1000V PIV @ 3A, 
and very inexpensive.   No resistors (or capacitors) necessary for 
series diodes.  


2) Resistors
a) does it make sense to replace them same value increasing the
power rating?
b) R3=100 Ohm on the 250V section
 


Can't hurt.


i) does it make sense to replace this with a coil of
proper value to improve filtering?

 

Not really necessary, as the current filtering more than meets the 0.25% 
ripple specification.



3) Capacitors
a) does it make sense to increase the capacity to improve
filtering (not so much to avoid an high peak current at sturtup and make
a disaster...)
 


Again, not necessary for same reason.

Also, look at the AC-4R kit from Mike Bryce at

http://www.theheathkitshop.com/drakeac4rreplace.html

Does everything you want to do in a very well designed package, plus 
replaces the difficult to find Twist-Lok can capacitors with modern 
snap-in style.


--
73, Garey - K4OAH
Atlanta

Drake R-4C Service Information CD
http://hr99.home.mindspring.com/R-4C_Servicez

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Re: [drakelist] Question on how to fireup a brand-new AC-3 never powered up last 40 years.

2005-06-07 Thread Garey Barrell


Garey Barrell [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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Bollini, Maurizio wrote:


Bollini, Maurizio [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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Good morning again,

I have an AC-3 in these conditions: brand new, never powered up last 40
years.

What do you suggest to do before beginning the fireup procedure ?
 

Check to see that the installed fuse is the proper one for the line 
voltage.



Do you suggest some components replacing? Which ones?
 

If you have a Variac or other variable AC voltage source, start by 
applying 10-20% of full line voltage.  Measure the DC outputs and if 
they are 10-20% of the expected value, then bring the AC voltage up over 
a minute or so.  Then recheck output voltages. 

If you have no variable AC source, you could just apply 12VAC from a 
filament transformer to the input and see if the output voltages from 
the AC-3 are about 10% of expected.   If so, apply full line voltage and 
recheck.


Alternatively, you could wire a light bulb in series with the AC line.  
When you turn on the supply, if the bulb lights brightly for a second 
and then dims, check the voltages and if they are good all is well.   If 
the bulb  _stays_  bright, then the filter caps are probably shorted and 
will need to be replaced. 


Or again, convert using the AC-4R board and eliminate all problems!

More than likely, if you just plug it in and turn it on it will work 
just fine!


--
73, Garey - K4OAH
Atlanta

Drake R-4C Service Information CD
http://hr99.home.mindspring.com/R-4C_Servicez

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Re: [drakelist] Drake Differences

2005-06-07 Thread Garey Barrell


Garey Barrell [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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DW -

The primary difference between the R-4 and the R-4B is the number of 
circuits that are solid-state vs tube.   Functionally they are pretty 
much identical.


The R-4 is very much like the 2-B with a linear PTO, all tube circuitry, 
with just a couple of SS diodes.   The early R-4A converted a few 
stages to SS, most notably the PTO with a bipolar transistor, the late 
R-4A a few more circuits went SS.   The R-4B converted a few more to SS, 
and the PTO to an FET.   They all used a single frequency dial with 1 
kHz marks on the knob skirt, the same Bandpass tuner, and the same basic 
knob arrangement.   The late A and all Bs used the color coded carrier 
oscillator crystals to improve the transceive align stability with the 
transmitter.   Most agree that the late B is the best, being the final 
refinement of the design.  It still had 10 tubes.   Some claim the A has 
a better (tube based) product detector and lower distortion, but I'm 
hard pressed to tell the difference.


By comparison, the R-4C has only five tubes left.

The transmitters are all very similar, with similar improvements in the 
PTO by going from tube, to bipolar, to FET.   The only significant 
change in the transmitters is the change from 4 pole crystal filters in 
the T-4X to 8 pole in the T-4XB, improving the carrier and unwanted 
sideband suppression.  The T-4X SSB signal is a little dirty by 
today's standards.


73, Garey - K4OAH
Atlanta

Drake R-4C Service Information CD
http://hr99.home.mindspring.com/R-4C_Servicez/


DW Holtman wrote:


Hello,
 
There has been quite a lot of information lately comparing the Drake 
R-4C with the R-4B. Could someone please compare the performance 
differences between the R-4 and the R-4A to the R-4B?
 
Thank you in advance.
 
73's

DW Holtman
WB7SSN


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[drakelist] need help in NYC for tr4

2005-06-07 Thread wilbc

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I recently picked up a tech ticket with code privileges.  I picked up a tr4 
which I used to admire as a kid at Arrow electronics NYC circa 1967.  Does any 
one live in NYC to guide me through use on 10 meters?
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Re: [drakelist] Question on how to fireup a brand-new AC-3 never powered up last 40 years. - reforming Electros....

2005-06-07 Thread Rodney Bunt

Rodney Bunt [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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If you have a variac (Variable AC transformer) power up the PS, 10 volts at a 
time, over at least
a 24 hour period.

An alternative is to disconnect the electros (and assuming they are in good 
condition in the first
instance) using a capacitance tester, which is a high voltage power supply with 
a magic eye tube
monitoring the leakage current. Look at the Magic eye tube and when there is no 
leakage the edges
of the bright band are very well defined, when leakage is occuring the edges 
get less defined and
positivly blurry.

Wind up the voltage untill the edges become slightly blurry, after a period of 
time the edges will
become sharp, then wind up the voltage some more, untill the edge is blurred 
again, wait some more
untill sharp, etc. etc. etc. In this way I have reformed some electrolityic 
capacitors from the
1940's in a Hammarlund rig. THey are operating fine NOW.

Here is a picure of the tester I use. http://www.qsl.net/la5ki/big/hc1.jpg

Rodney
VK2KTZ


--- Bollini, Maurizio [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 
 Bollini, Maurizio [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist 
 gang
 --
 Good morning again,
 
 I have an AC-3 in these conditions: brand new, never powered up last 40
 years.
 
 What do you suggest to do before beginning the fireup procedure ?
 Do you suggest some components replacing? Which ones?
 
 Then, how to do a proper fireup?
 
 Thanks to share your experiences.
 
 73 Maurizio, IZ2CED.
 

_
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 contenere
 informazioni che sono di natura privilegiata, confidenziale
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 messaggio non e il
 destinatario designato, o il dipendente/agente responsabile
 per la consegna del messaggio al destinatario designato, si informa che ogni 
 disseminazione,
 distribuzione o copiatura di questa comunicazione e 
 strettamente proibita anche ai sensi del decreto legislativo 196/03 . Se 
 avete ricevuto questo
 messaggio per errore, vi preghiamo di notificarcelo
 immediatamente a mezzo e-mail di risposta e successivamente di procedere alla 
 cancellazione di
 questa e-mail e relativi allegati dal vostro sistema.

_
 This message is intended only for the use of the addressee and may contain 
 information that is
 privileged, confidential and exempt from 
 disclosure under applicable law. If the reader of this message is not the 
 intended recipient, or
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 dissemination, distribution
 or copying of this communication is strictly 
 prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify us 
 immediately by return
 e-mail and delete this e-mail and all attachments from 
 your system.

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