Re: [drakelist] moving crystals

[Gary Poland]

"Gary Poland" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Back several years ago when I first got interested in operated AM I didnt 
have crystals for 3880, 3885, or 7290 for my DX-60. I was able to take 
FT-273 crystals I had on hand and with water and fine emery paper bring them 
up to the frequencies I needed. I was surprised that it worked! I still have 
them and they still are on frequency.




73, Gary W8PU
http://home.cinci.rr.com/w8pu



--
Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body
Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message
Zerobeat Web Page:  www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net
--

Re: [drakelist] moving crystals

[jfmullens]

[EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
I've used Ajax scouring powder (along with a similar compound called 
"Zud") mixed with a little water to grind crystals. You want to add 
just enough to make a slurry, then place the wafer to be ground into a 
puddle of the stuff...rotary motion with light finger pressure is all 
that's required. It takes a bit of time but this method works.




More new features than ever.  Check out the new AOL Mail ! - 
http://webmail.aol.com


--
Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body
Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message
Zerobeat Web Page:  www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net
--

Re: [drakelist] moving crystals

[Al Parker]

"Al Parker" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Hi Rick,
   If you come up with an Autek MK-1 schematic, I'd sure appreciate a copy. 
I bought one about 12 yrs ago, not working.  I got it going, it was a bad 
ground connection at a pot I think (but memory is pretty leaky).  It's been 
OK since, tho' I don't use it a lot, prefer a bug for what I do mostly.

73,
Al, W8UT
New Bern, NC
www.boatanchors.org
www.hammarlund.info

- Original Message - 
From: "Rick Tucker" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2008 9:12 PM
Subject: [drakelist] moving crystals


I clearly remember dad (W0QOA) who is SK now and I setting at the kitchen 
table in the early 60's and grinding crystals to move the frequency to the 
novice band.  Seems like dad used a fine powder substance that was abrasive. 
It worked and we moved several and ruined very few.  Of course everything he 
had was modified in some way.  I still have and use some of those crystals 
with my DX 20.
Does anyone have diagram or literature on Autek MK-1 memory keyer.  I need 
to fix it to use with my Drake C line.  Be glad to pay for a copy.

Rick
W0RT 




--
Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body
Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message
Zerobeat Web Page:  www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net
--

[drakelist] moving crystals

[Rick Tucker]

I clearly remember dad (W0QOA) who is SK now and I setting at the kitchen table 
in the early 60's and grinding crystals to move the frequency to the novice 
band.  Seems like dad used a fine powder substance that was abrasive.  It 
worked and we moved several and ruined very few.  Of course everything he had 
was modified in some way.  I still have and use some of those crystals with my 
DX 20.
Does anyone have diagram or literature on Autek MK-1 memory keyer.  I need to 
fix it to use with my Drake C line.  Be glad to pay for a copy.
Rick
W0RT  

Re: [drakelist] Crystals To Swap...?

[Jim Gerke]

Jim Gerke <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Terry,

It was kind of neat to be able to move them around, but you had to be 
careful when adding that pencil mark. Too much and they quit 
oscillating. Then you had to get out the art gum eraser and carefully 
remove part of the mark. We sure had fun


73, Jim K5JG

Terrell Hamilton wrote:

"Terrell Hamilton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Howdy, Jim - 


Good to hear that I was wrong about making the crystals go lower - that's a
very clever trick, thanks!   I guess you CAN add material to them!  
73

Terry K7WLD


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Jim Gerke
Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2008 7:30 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [drakelist] Crystals To Swap...?


Jim Gerke <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
I did the same thing with crystals in the FT-243 holders when I was a 
Novice in the early sixties. I used toothpaste as the abrasive for 
moving them up in frequency. To go lower, I'd mark a corner with a lead 
pencil. That made 'em a little heavier and they'd go lower in frequency.


The crystals used by the Drake rigs are in all metal holders with the 
top part of the can soldered to the base. It's tough to get them open 
without damaging the quartz.


73, Jim K5JG

Terrell Hamilton wrote:

Hi, Eddy -

Do you think you could "sand down" the frequency on a 
crystal close to the one you want?  I don't know what kind of crystals 
are in your receivers, or even +how it would work for receivers, but it 
worked for me for transmitting on my old homebrew rig. 

Way back in the day(late 50's), when I was a teenage novice with not 
much money, I remember sanding down crystals that were given to me by 
other hams.  It worked pretty good and gave me different frequencies to 
use on my crystal controlled 6146 xmtr. 

The crystals had to be the kind that are in a plastic case that opens up 
and It only worked one way, of course - can't add material to them, 
unfortunately - and I forget if sanding them made freqs go up or down - 
it seems to me that it would make the freq higher the more you sand, but 
that's just an educated (?) guess.  I remember opening up the little 
plastic case, sanding them down, putting them back in the case and then 
transmitting and monitoring to see what new frequency they were. 

Sometimes I broke them, or went too far out of the novice band, but 
eventually I had a few crystals that I could switch out if the band got 
crowded on my single frequency xmtr.  
 
It was kind of tedious, but it gave me a  pretty good "poor man's VFO".  
If you've got lots of crystals that you don't mind experimenting with, 
it might be a possibility that could work. 

What do you think, folks?  Rcvr crystals are probably different, don't 
open up, and there's probably some technical reason that makes this a 
ridiculous suggestion.


 


Terry

K7WLD



--
Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body
Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message
Zerobeat Web Page:  www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net
--




--
Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body
Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message
Zerobeat Web Page:  www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net
--



--
Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body
Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message
Zerobeat Web Page:  www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net
--

RE: [drakelist] Crystals To Swap...?

[Terrell Hamilton]

"Terrell Hamilton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Howdy, Jim - 

Good to hear that I was wrong about making the crystals go lower - that's a
very clever trick, thanks!   I guess you CAN add material to them!  
73
Terry K7WLD


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Jim Gerke
Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2008 7:30 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [drakelist] Crystals To Swap...?


Jim Gerke <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
I did the same thing with crystals in the FT-243 holders when I was a 
Novice in the early sixties. I used toothpaste as the abrasive for 
moving them up in frequency. To go lower, I'd mark a corner with a lead 
pencil. That made 'em a little heavier and they'd go lower in frequency.

The crystals used by the Drake rigs are in all metal holders with the 
top part of the can soldered to the base. It's tough to get them open 
without damaging the quartz.

73, Jim K5JG

Terrell Hamilton wrote:
> Hi, Eddy -
> 
> Do you think you could "sand down" the frequency on a 
> crystal close to the one you want?  I don't know what kind of crystals 
> are in your receivers, or even +how it would work for receivers, but it 
> worked for me for transmitting on my old homebrew rig. 
> 
> Way back in the day(late 50's), when I was a teenage novice with not 
> much money, I remember sanding down crystals that were given to me by 
> other hams.  It worked pretty good and gave me different frequencies to 
> use on my crystal controlled 6146 xmtr. 
> 
> The crystals had to be the kind that are in a plastic case that opens up 
> and It only worked one way, of course - can't add material to them, 
> unfortunately - and I forget if sanding them made freqs go up or down - 
> it seems to me that it would make the freq higher the more you sand, but 
> that's just an educated (?) guess.  I remember opening up the little 
> plastic case, sanding them down, putting them back in the case and then 
> transmitting and monitoring to see what new frequency they were. 
> 
> Sometimes I broke them, or went too far out of the novice band, but 
> eventually I had a few crystals that I could switch out if the band got 
> crowded on my single frequency xmtr.  
>  
> It was kind of tedious, but it gave me a  pretty good "poor man's VFO".  
> If you've got lots of crystals that you don't mind experimenting with, 
> it might be a possibility that could work. 
> 
> What do you think, folks?  Rcvr crystals are probably different, don't 
> open up, and there's probably some technical reason that makes this a 
> ridiculous suggestion.
> 
>  
> 
> Terry
> 
> K7WLD


--
Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body
Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message
Zerobeat Web Page:  www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net
--




--
Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body
Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message
Zerobeat Web Page:  www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net
--

Re: [drakelist] R4A, S-meter no longer working

[Garey Barrell]

Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Chuck -

OK.   I still think I'd put the 4.7k resistor in there if it was mine.  
Obviously Drake thought better of leaving it out since they included it 
in the remaining production of the R-4B.


The "G" indicates a Green color coded crystal that has to do with 
temperature compensation.  The transmitters also have color codes and 
for long term stability of the Transceive function the two units should 
have the same color crystal.  I have an article on Ron's website at




73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line & TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs




Chuck Grandgent wrote:

Actually it's 6987G.
And 22k across primary of T10, and no R142.
And you mention "R4B Version 1, s/n 7000+ has R146 (22k), R142 (4.7k) 
in series, and C159 (0.01) bypass", so that explains the 22k resistor.


The C159 failure has been happening over time, to the point where when 
I first turned it on, it would be quite dead, but usually it would 
clear up.  I thought it was dirty bandswitch contacts or something.
Then I noticed the S-meter not working, and it wasn't that along that 
it did, but hard to remember.


What's that letter after the serial # ?

   Chuck, K1OM

On Feb 17, 2008 10:06 AM, Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> wrote:



Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED] >
made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Chuck -

Great!  That's very interesting that your VERY late serial number of
6987, which would make it one of the very last R-4As made, (the R-4B
started at 7000,) would not match any of the Version schematics.

Version 1, s/n 2007+ has R97 (33k) across the primary of T10, R26
(4.7k)
in series, and C74 (0.01) bypass.

Version 2, s/n 3040+ has the same

Version 3, s/n 4054+ has ONLY C154 (0.1) bypass

Version 4, s/n 5400+ has   xxx, R142 (4.7k) in series, and C159
(0.01) bypass

Looks like Drake never did figure out just what to do with that
circuit!

The first R-4B had

Version 1, s/n 7000+ has R146 (22k), R142 (4.7k) in series, and C159
(0.01) bypass

and stayed that way through the remaining two versions of R-4B
production.  I'm wondering if they came to the conclusion that in
addition to improving the filter "blow-by" the 4.7k resistor would
also
protect transformer T10 in case of a plate-suppressor short in V5,
a not
uncommon occurrence with those tubes.  Might not be a bad idea to
add it.

Yes, I imagine it IS a bit hotter receiver with the 2nd IF Amp
actually
amplifying instead of just being a coupling capacitor!  A testament to
the AVC circuit of these receivers.

73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line & TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
http://www.k4oah.com>>



Chuck Grandgent wrote:
> WaHoo !
> That was it, C159 was way leaky, and my version does not have
R142, so
> that added some confusion.
>
> S-meter's working great and receiver's hotter than I can recall in
> recent memory !
>
> As always, thanks Garey,
>
>Chuck, K1OM
>
> On Feb 16, 2008 11:13 AM, Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]

> >> wrote:
>
>
> Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 >>
> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
>
--

> Chuck -
>
> I was just typing my last as you were sending yours...  
 Great minds,

> etc.:-)
>
> Nothing like having the right schematic.  C159 is a 0.01
disc
> ceramic in this version.
>
> R142 likely has gone way up in value or cracked.  Not in the
earlier
> schematic I was looking at.
>
> Schematic in separate message off reflector.
>
> 73, Garey - K4OAH
> Glen Allen, VA
>
> Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line & TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
> http://www.k4oah.com> >
>
>
>
> Chuck Grandgent wrote:
> > C159 was definitely bad Garey, replaced that and now I
have S-meter
> > action.
> > However I still have no plate voltage on V5, and for the
life of
> me I
> > can't see how it's wired for it.  It seems to have a 22k
resistor
> > across T10 on the V5 plate side, and other than that and the
> > connection to C159, I don't see how it gets to any
voltage, it's
>   

Re: [drakelist] R4A, S-meter no longer working

[Chuck Grandgent]

Actually it's 6987G.
And 22k across primary of T10, and no R142.
And you mention "R4B Version 1, s/n 7000+ has R146 (22k), R142 (4.7k) in
series, and C159 (0.01) bypass", so that explains the 22k resistor.

The C159 failure has been happening over time, to the point where when I
first turned it on, it would be quite dead, but usually it would clear up.
I thought it was dirty bandswitch contacts or something.
Then I noticed the S-meter not working, and it wasn't that along that it
did, but hard to remember.

What's that letter after the serial # ?

   Chuck, K1OM

On Feb 17, 2008 10:06 AM, Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

>
> Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist
> gang
> --
> Chuck -
>
> Great!  That's very interesting that your VERY late serial number of
> 6987, which would make it one of the very last R-4As made, (the R-4B
> started at 7000,) would not match any of the Version schematics.
>
> Version 1, s/n 2007+ has R97 (33k) across the primary of T10, R26 (4.7k)
> in series, and C74 (0.01) bypass.
>
> Version 2, s/n 3040+ has the same
>
> Version 3, s/n 4054+ has ONLY C154 (0.1) bypass
>
> Version 4, s/n 5400+ has   xxx, R142 (4.7k) in series, and C159
> (0.01) bypass
>
> Looks like Drake never did figure out just what to do with that circuit!
>
> The first R-4B had
>
> Version 1, s/n 7000+ has R146 (22k), R142 (4.7k) in series, and C159
> (0.01) bypass
>
> and stayed that way through the remaining two versions of R-4B
> production.  I'm wondering if they came to the conclusion that in
> addition to improving the filter "blow-by" the 4.7k resistor would also
> protect transformer T10 in case of a plate-suppressor short in V5, a not
> uncommon occurrence with those tubes.  Might not be a bad idea to add it.
>
> Yes, I imagine it IS a bit hotter receiver with the 2nd IF Amp actually
> amplifying instead of just being a coupling capacitor!  A testament to
> the AVC circuit of these receivers.
>
> 73, Garey - K4OAH
> Glen Allen, VA
>
> Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line & TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
> 
>
>
>
> Chuck Grandgent wrote:
> > WaHoo !
> > That was it, C159 was way leaky, and my version does not have R142, so
> > that added some confusion.
> >
> > S-meter's working great and receiver's hotter than I can recall in
> > recent memory !
> >
> > As always, thanks Garey,
> >
> >Chuck, K1OM
> >
> > On Feb 16, 2008 11:13 AM, Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > > wrote:
> >
> >
> > Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED] >
> > made an utterance to the drakelist gang
> >
> --
> > Chuck -
> >
> > I was just typing my last as you were sending yours...Great
> minds,
> > etc.:-)
> >
> > Nothing like having the right schematic.  C159 is a 0.01 disc
> > ceramic in this version.
> >
> > R142 likely has gone way up in value or cracked.  Not in the earlier
> > schematic I was looking at.
> >
> > Schematic in separate message off reflector.
> >
> > 73, Garey - K4OAH
> > Glen Allen, VA
> >
> > Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line & TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
> > http://www.k4oah.com>>
> >
> >
> >
> > Chuck Grandgent wrote:
> > > C159 was definitely bad Garey, replaced that and now I have
> S-meter
> > > action.
> > > However I still have no plate voltage on V5, and for the life of
> > me I
> > > can't see how it's wired for it.  It seems to have a 22k resistor
> > > across T10 on the V5 plate side, and other than that and the
> > > connection to C159, I don't see how it gets to any voltage, it's
> > like
> > > R142 is missing.
> > >
> > > My serial number is 6987.
> > >
> > >Chuck, K1OM
> > >
> > > On Feb 15, 2008 11:30 PM, Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > 
> > > >>
> wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >   > >>
> > > made an utterance to the drakelist gang
> > >
> >
> --
> > > Chuck -
> > >
> > > C159 may be very leaky or shorted.   0.1 uF at 200V.  You
> > may have a
> > > fault in T10.  B+ is applied to V5 through the primary of
> > T10 and one
> > > end of the secondary is at ground.  Check DC voltages on
> either
> > > side of
> > > T10.  A plate-suppressor grid short in V5 could have smoked
> T10,
> > > so use
> > > a known good tube.
> > >
> > > The 6HS6 filament is just a filament wiring anomaly.
> According
> > > to s/n
> > > 4054 schematic Pin 4 should be 6.3 and Pin 3 sho

Re: [drakelist] Crystals To Swap...?

[EP Swynar]

Hi Terry,

Many thanks for the FB note...

Yes, I've re-sanded crystals here, too, to get higher up in frequency --- but 
only the larger, more user-friendly FT-243 types, & NOT the sealed & soldered 
HC-6/U variety.

I've read where it can, indeed, be done --- but I've just never had the 
gumption to give it a go...

I shouldn't let THAT stop me, now though, should I...? Hi Hi 

Maybe I'll try the "surgery" on one that I have...not too sure as to what, 
exactly, I'll find inside when I open one up though...

~73~ Eddy VE3CUI - VE3XZ

*


  - Original Message - 
  From: Terrell Hamilton 
  To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2008 9:40 AM
  Subject: RE: [drakelist] Crystals To Swap...?


  Hi, Eddy -

  Do you think you could "sand down" the frequency on a crystal 
close to the one you want?  I don't know what kind of crystals are in your 
receivers, or even +how it would work for receivers, but it worked for me for 
transmitting on my old homebrew rig.  

   

  Way back in the day(late 50's), when I was a teenage novice with not much 
money, I remember sanding down crystals that were given to me by other hams.  
It worked pretty good and gave me different frequencies to use on my crystal 
controlled 6146 xmtr.  

   

  The crystals had to be the kind that are in a plastic case that opens up and 
It only worked one way, of course - can't add material to them, unfortunately - 
and I forget if sanding them made freqs go up or down - it seems to me that it 
would make the freq higher the more you sand, but that's just an educated (?) 
guess.  I remember opening up the little plastic case, sanding them down, 
putting them back in the case and then transmitting and monitoring to see what 
new frequency they were.  

   

  Sometimes I broke them, or went too far out of the novice band, but 
eventually I had a few crystals that I could switch out if the band got crowded 
on my single frequency xmtr.  

   

  It was kind of tedious, but it gave me a  pretty good "poor man's VFO".  If 
you've got lots of crystals that you don't mind experimenting with, it might be 
a possibility that could work.  

  What do you think, folks?  Rcvr crystals are probably different, don't open 
up, and there's probably some technical reason that makes this a ridiculous 
suggestion.

   

  Terry

  K7WLD

   

  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of EP Swynar
  Sent: Saturday, February 16, 2008 10:34 AM
  To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Subject: [drakelist] Crystals To Swap...?

   

  Hi All, 

   

  I'm  curious if anyone reading this might be interested in possibly swapping 
HC-6/U crystals for use in the R-4 series of receivers...

   

  I have a bunch here of various frequencies, but none in "0.1" or "0.6" 
increments, unfortunately --- they're "oddball" when it comes to what the R-4 
prefers to see, but for casual SWL'ing they still work A-OK...

   

  I sure would like something in & around the 20.6-MHz range, so that I might 
be able to listen to at least a portion(s) of the 9-MHz SWL BC band (one of my 
favourite places in the spectrum back some 39 years ago).

   

  So, what say...? What might you have to trade out there, & what particular 
"rocks" are you looking for that I might have here...?

   

  ~73~ Eddy VE3CUI - VE3XZ

Re: [drakelist] FS: Unique Drake Service Information

[Garey Barrell]

Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Hi Al -

Glad you like the CD..It took MUCH longer than I anticipated.  A lot 
more compact than the B and C Line units, making photos difficult.  I 
had to disassemble some parts just to get a decent picture.  Anyway, 
nice comments make it all worthwhile.


I'm not sure who you're referring to re the SPICE simulations.  Sounds 
interesting, even though I am a "strictly original" type!!   I love and 
use this equipment for what it is/was, and modifying it destroys the 
value to me.  Kinda like putting a Chevy V-8 into a Willys Jeep.  Yeah, 
it's probably a 'better' vehicle, but it's no longer a Chevy -OR- a 
Jeep.  I would like to see what you are asking about though, because it 
IS fun to look at what might have been done differently.  Although I 
went all through school with a slide rule, and didn't see a calculator 
OR computer until I was in the working world, it still amazes me that 
something like the Passband Tuner was designed with only a slide rule. 

I got my first calculator, an HP-35, in 1972.  They were $395, and each 
of the HP test equipment reps had one.  Our guy came to see us one day a 
whipped out this little tiny thing and showed us a few calculations.  As 
we were picking our jaws up off the floor, he held it out to my friend 
standing next to me and just as my friend touched it the guy let it go!  
Of course it fell to the tile lab floor and bounced a couple of 
times.   He reached down and picked it up to show us it was just 
fine  Standard demo procedure.  :-)   Turns out that each rep 
was allowed to purchase ONE unit at only $295.  The Sales secretarial 
staff set up a network to match "good" test equipment customers with a 
sales rep who wanted to sell his ONE unit for a fee of only $5.  At the 
time I was probably spending $50k/yr with HP, so I qualified.   My 
friend and I each bought one for ONLY $300 each.   I used mine for five 
years, then my wife commandeered it and used it all through graduate 
school.  She bought me a new HP-27C for about $100 so she could get my 
'35!!   I still have the '35 and the '27C, both work fine.


Bill has been with Drake for over 40 years.  He has been an absolute 
treasure to the Drake community.  He did more for the company reputation 
over all these years than even they realize, I'm sure.  I talk to him 
once in a while, and he has sent me a lot of stuff that most would have 
just thrown away.  All their production records were thrown away while 
he was on vacation many years ago, or I'd have those too!!  He is now 
spending his days shepherding head-end HDTV gear, as he says "all black 
boxes", and I think he misses the "real" Drake gear too!


My Daughter has been down here for a few days from St Charles, helping 
me sort through some of this junk.  I'm sure we'll be back before too long.


73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA



ALAN PHILLIPS wrote:
Hi Garey: I just received your TR4 service CD. It is definetly 
complete...nothing has been left out. The tube lists for each version 
is great! A schematic for each version is better than just one.  The 
parts lists are easy to read..very professional!
My son loaded the cd on his own laptop. Maybe he will read it and get 
interested and get his ticket.
one question. the mods done by our friend overseas, says SPICE 
simulations show improvements. try and let me know? Has he not tryed 
them himself? Is it just theory? Garey, Have you tryed them, even the 
low freq ssb mod? Please let me know and thanks for including special 
info from Bill Frost in your cd.

Let me know when you visit the area again, 73's Al KC9YS







*/Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>/* wrote:


Garey Barrell made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Unique supplemental service information CDs available for the
Drake 2-B
receiver, the B and C Lines, The TR-4 and the TR-4C / Cw / CwRIT
transceivers.

These CDs are NOT just scans of the original manuals that were
included
with the equipment when new.

While high resolution scans of the original manuals ARE on the
CDs, what
they really offer is high resolution color photos of the under chassis
and individual PC boards of each unit with all parts identified and
keyed to a parts list. This information is not available elsewhere and
really makes a difference in servicing these units. Samples of these
pages (at reduced resolution) and purchase information are at
.

-- 
73, Garey - K4OAH

Glen Allen, VA





--
Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body
Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message
Zerobeat Web Page:  www.zerobe

Re: [drakelist] R4A, S-meter no longer working

[Jack]

Jack <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Hey you got me beat Chuck, I have #6966. Its on the shelve right now  
awaiting a gremlin exorcizing. I used it for quite a few years.


You might want to put the info on the Drakelist home page section for  
R-4As (http://www.zerobeat.net/drakelist/r4asurvey.html)


Garey thanks for your great work on these old girls.

73,
Jack
WA9NQW

On Feb 17, 2008, at 9:06 AM, Garey Barrell wrote:



Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the  
drakelist gang

--
Chuck -

Great!  That's very interesting that your VERY late serial number of
6987, which would make it one of the very last R-4As made, (the R-4B
started at 7000,) would not match any of the Version schematics.

Version 1, s/n 2007+ has R97 (33k) across the primary of T10, R26  
(4.7k)

in series, and C74 (0.01) bypass.

Version 2, s/n 3040+ has the same

Version 3, s/n 4054+ has ONLY C154 (0.1) bypass

Version 4, s/n 5400+ has   xxx, R142 (4.7k) in series, and C159
(0.01) bypass

Looks like Drake never did figure out just what to do with that  
circuit!


The first R-4B had

Version 1, s/n 7000+ has R146 (22k), R142 (4.7k) in series, and C159
(0.01) bypass

and stayed that way through the remaining two versions of R-4B
production.  I'm wondering if they came to the conclusion that in
addition to improving the filter "blow-by" the 4.7k resistor would  
also
protect transformer T10 in case of a plate-suppressor short in V5,  
a not
uncommon occurrence with those tubes.  Might not be a bad idea to  
add it.


Yes, I imagine it IS a bit hotter receiver with the 2nd IF Amp  
actually

amplifying instead of just being a coupling capacitor!  A testament to
the AVC circuit of these receivers.

73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line & TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs




Chuck Grandgent wrote:

WaHoo !
That was it, C159 was way leaky, and my version does not have  
R142, so that added some confusion.


S-meter's working great and receiver's hotter than I can recall in  
recent memory !


As always, thanks Garey,

   Chuck, K1OM

On Feb 16, 2008 11:13 AM, Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]  
> wrote:



Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]  
>

made an utterance to the drakelist gang
 
- 
-

Chuck -

I was just typing my last as you were sending yours... 
Great minds,

etc.:-)

Nothing like having the right schematic.  C159 is a 0.01 disc
ceramic in this version.

R142 likely has gone way up in value or cracked.  Not in the  
earlier

schematic I was looking at.

Schematic in separate message off reflector.

73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line & TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
http://www.k4oah.com>>



Chuck Grandgent wrote:
> C159 was definitely bad Garey, replaced that and now I have  
S-meter

> action.
> However I still have no plate voltage on V5, and for the  
life of

me I
> can't see how it's wired for it.  It seems to have a 22k  
resistor

> across T10 on the V5 plate side, and other than that and the
> connection to C159, I don't see how it gets to any voltage,  
it's

like
> R142 is missing.
>
> My serial number is 6987.
>
>Chuck, K1OM
>
> On Feb 15, 2008 11:30 PM, Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]

> >>  
wrote:

>
>
> Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 >>
> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
> 
- 
-

> Chuck -
>
> C159 may be very leaky or shorted.   0.1 uF at 200V.  You
may have a
> fault in T10.  B+ is applied to V5 through the primary of
T10 and one
> end of the secondary is at ground.  Check DC voltages on  
either

> side of
> T10.  A plate-suppressor grid short in V5 could have  
smoked T10,

> so use
> a known good tube.
>
> The 6HS6 filament is just a filament wiring anomaly.
According

> to s/n
> 4054 schematic Pin 4 should be 6.3 and Pin 3 should be 0.
 What is the
> s/n of your R-4A?  I have the correct schematic.
>
> 73, Garey - K4OAH
> Glen Allen, VA
>
> Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line & TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
> http://www.k4oah.com> www.k4oah.com>>

>
>
>
> Chuck Grandgent wrote:
> > The plot thickens.
> > I checked resistance and voltage at all the pins for V2,
V

Re: [drakelist] Crystals To Swap...?

[Jim Gerke]

Jim Gerke <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
I did the same thing with crystals in the FT-243 holders when I was a 
Novice in the early sixties. I used toothpaste as the abrasive for 
moving them up in frequency. To go lower, I'd mark a corner with a lead 
pencil. That made 'em a little heavier and they'd go lower in frequency.


The crystals used by the Drake rigs are in all metal holders with the 
top part of the can soldered to the base. It's tough to get them open 
without damaging the quartz.


73, Jim K5JG

Terrell Hamilton wrote:

Hi, Eddy –

Do you think you could “sand down” the frequency on a 
crystal close to the one you want?  I don’t know what kind of crystals 
are in your receivers, or even +how it would work for receivers, but it 
worked for me for transmitting on my old homebrew rig. 

Way back in the day(late 50’s), when I was a teenage novice with not 
much money, I remember sanding down crystals that were given to me by 
other hams.  It worked pretty good and gave me different frequencies to 
use on my crystal controlled 6146 xmtr. 

The crystals had to be the kind that are in a plastic case that opens up 
and It only worked one way, of course – can’t add material to them, 
unfortunately – and I forget if sanding them made freqs go up or down – 
it seems to me that it would make the freq higher the more you sand, but 
that’s just an educated (?) guess.  I remember opening up the little 
plastic case, sanding them down, putting them back in the case and then 
transmitting and monitoring to see what new frequency they were. 

Sometimes I broke them, or went too far out of the novice band, but 
eventually I had a few crystals that I could switch out if the band got 
crowded on my single frequency xmtr.  
 
It was kind of tedious, but it gave me a  pretty good “poor man’s VFO”…  
If you’ve got lots of crystals that you don’t mind experimenting with, 
it might be a possibility that could work. 

What do you think, folks?  Rcvr crystals are probably different, don’t 
open up, and there’s probably some technical reason that makes this a 
ridiculous suggestion…


 


Terry

K7WLD



--
Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body
Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message
Zerobeat Web Page:  www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net
--

Re: [drakelist] R4A, S-meter no longer working

[Garey Barrell]

Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Chuck -

Great!  That's very interesting that your VERY late serial number of
6987, which would make it one of the very last R-4As made, (the R-4B
started at 7000,) would not match any of the Version schematics.

Version 1, s/n 2007+ has R97 (33k) across the primary of T10, R26 (4.7k)
in series, and C74 (0.01) bypass.

Version 2, s/n 3040+ has the same

Version 3, s/n 4054+ has ONLY C154 (0.1) bypass

Version 4, s/n 5400+ has   xxx, R142 (4.7k) in series, and C159
(0.01) bypass

Looks like Drake never did figure out just what to do with that circuit!

The first R-4B had

Version 1, s/n 7000+ has R146 (22k), R142 (4.7k) in series, and C159
(0.01) bypass

and stayed that way through the remaining two versions of R-4B
production.  I'm wondering if they came to the conclusion that in
addition to improving the filter "blow-by" the 4.7k resistor would also
protect transformer T10 in case of a plate-suppressor short in V5, a not
uncommon occurrence with those tubes.  Might not be a bad idea to add it.

Yes, I imagine it IS a bit hotter receiver with the 2nd IF Amp actually
amplifying instead of just being a coupling capacitor!  A testament to
the AVC circuit of these receivers.

73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line & TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs




Chuck Grandgent wrote:

WaHoo !
That was it, C159 was way leaky, and my version does not have R142, so 
that added some confusion.


S-meter's working great and receiver's hotter than I can recall in 
recent memory !


As always, thanks Garey,

   Chuck, K1OM

On Feb 16, 2008 11:13 AM, Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> wrote:



Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED] >
made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Chuck -

I was just typing my last as you were sending yours...Great minds,
etc.:-)

Nothing like having the right schematic.  C159 is a 0.01 disc
ceramic in this version.

R142 likely has gone way up in value or cracked.  Not in the earlier
schematic I was looking at.

Schematic in separate message off reflector.

73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line & TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
http://www.k4oah.com>>



Chuck Grandgent wrote:
> C159 was definitely bad Garey, replaced that and now I have S-meter
> action.
> However I still have no plate voltage on V5, and for the life of
me I
> can't see how it's wired for it.  It seems to have a 22k resistor
> across T10 on the V5 plate side, and other than that and the
> connection to C159, I don't see how it gets to any voltage, it's
like
> R142 is missing.
>
> My serial number is 6987.
>
>Chuck, K1OM
>
> On Feb 15, 2008 11:30 PM, Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]

> >> wrote:
>
>
> Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 >>
> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
>
--

> Chuck -
>
> C159 may be very leaky or shorted.   0.1 uF at 200V.  You
may have a
> fault in T10.  B+ is applied to V5 through the primary of
T10 and one
> end of the secondary is at ground.  Check DC voltages on either
> side of
> T10.  A plate-suppressor grid short in V5 could have smoked T10,
> so use
> a known good tube.
>
> The 6HS6 filament is just a filament wiring anomaly.   According
> to s/n
> 4054 schematic Pin 4 should be 6.3 and Pin 3 should be 0.
 What is the
> s/n of your R-4A?  I have the correct schematic.
>
> 73, Garey - K4OAH
> Glen Allen, VA
>
> Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line & TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
> http://www.k4oah.com> >
>
>
>
> Chuck Grandgent wrote:
> > The plot thickens.
> > I checked resistance and voltage at all the pins for V2,
V3, V4, V5.
> > The two bads are:
> >   1) V5 12BA6 pin 5 (plate), resistance is 150 ohms, s/b
10k.  And
> > votage is 3 volts, s/b 110v
> > I guess R41 and maybe R142 bear more checking, though if
either of
> > these went high, I can't account for the low plate to ground
> > resistance through this fault.
> > Swapped this tube also with no effect.
> >
> >   2) V2 6HS6, manual says pin 3 (filament) s/b 6.3, is
zero and
> pin 4
> > (filament) s/b 12.6, is 6.4.  Looking at the schem

RE: [drakelist] Crystals To Swap...?

[Terrell Hamilton]

Hi, Eddy -

Do you think you could "sand down" the frequency on a
crystal close to the one you want?  I don't know what kind of crystals are
in your receivers, or even +how it would work for receivers, but it worked
for me for transmitting on my old homebrew rig.  

 

Way back in the day(late 50's), when I was a teenage novice with not much
money, I remember sanding down crystals that were given to me by other hams.
It worked pretty good and gave me different frequencies to use on my crystal
controlled 6146 xmtr.  

 

The crystals had to be the kind that are in a plastic case that opens up and
It only worked one way, of course - can't add material to them,
unfortunately - and I forget if sanding them made freqs go up or down - it
seems to me that it would make the freq higher the more you sand, but that's
just an educated (?) guess.  I remember opening up the little plastic case,
sanding them down, putting them back in the case and then transmitting and
monitoring to see what new frequency they were.  

 

Sometimes I broke them, or went too far out of the novice band, but
eventually I had a few crystals that I could switch out if the band got
crowded on my single frequency xmtr.  

 

It was kind of tedious, but it gave me a  pretty good "poor man's VFO".  If
you've got lots of crystals that you don't mind experimenting with, it might
be a possibility that could work.  

What do you think, folks?  Rcvr crystals are probably different, don't open
up, and there's probably some technical reason that makes this a ridiculous
suggestion.

 

Terry

K7WLD

 

From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of EP Swynar
Sent: Saturday, February 16, 2008 10:34 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [drakelist] Crystals To Swap...?

 

Hi All, 

 

I'm  curious if anyone reading this might be interested in possibly swapping
HC-6/U crystals for use in the R-4 series of receivers...

 

I have a bunch here of various frequencies, but none in "0.1" or "0.6"
increments, unfortunately --- they're "oddball" when it comes to what the
R-4 prefers to see, but for casual SWL'ing they still work A-OK...

 

I sure would like something in & around the 20.6-MHz range, so that I might
be able to listen to at least a portion(s) of the 9-MHz SWL BC band (one of
my favourite places in the spectrum back some 39 years ago).

 

So, what say...? What might you have to trade out there, & what particular
"rocks" are you looking for that I might have here...?

 

~73~ Eddy VE3CUI - VE3XZ

Re: [drakelist] R4A, S-meter no longer working

[Chuck Grandgent]

WaHoo !
That was it, C159 was way leaky, and my version does not have R142, so that
added some confusion.

S-meter's working great and receiver's hotter than I can recall in recent
memory !

As always, thanks Garey,

   Chuck, K1OM

On Feb 16, 2008 11:13 AM, Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

>
> Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist
> gang
> --
> Chuck -
>
> I was just typing my last as you were sending yours...Great minds,
> etc.:-)
>
> Nothing like having the right schematic.  C159 is a 0.01 disc
> ceramic in this version.
>
> R142 likely has gone way up in value or cracked.  Not in the earlier
> schematic I was looking at.
>
> Schematic in separate message off reflector.
>
> 73, Garey - K4OAH
> Glen Allen, VA
>
> Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line & TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
> 
>
>
>
> Chuck Grandgent wrote:
> > C159 was definitely bad Garey, replaced that and now I have S-meter
> > action.
> > However I still have no plate voltage on V5, and for the life of me I
> > can't see how it's wired for it.  It seems to have a 22k resistor
> > across T10 on the V5 plate side, and other than that and the
> > connection to C159, I don't see how it gets to any voltage, it's like
> > R142 is missing.
> >
> > My serial number is 6987.
> >
> >Chuck, K1OM
> >
> > On Feb 15, 2008 11:30 PM, Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > > wrote:
> >
> >
> > Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED] >
> > made an utterance to the drakelist gang
> >
> --
> > Chuck -
> >
> > C159 may be very leaky or shorted.   0.1 uF at 200V.  You may have a
> > fault in T10.  B+ is applied to V5 through the primary of T10 and
> one
> > end of the secondary is at ground.  Check DC voltages on either
> > side of
> > T10.  A plate-suppressor grid short in V5 could have smoked T10,
> > so use
> > a known good tube.
> >
> > The 6HS6 filament is just a filament wiring anomaly.   According
> > to s/n
> > 4054 schematic Pin 4 should be 6.3 and Pin 3 should be 0.  What is
> the
> > s/n of your R-4A?  I have the correct schematic.
> >
> > 73, Garey - K4OAH
> > Glen Allen, VA
> >
> > Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line & TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
> > http://www.k4oah.com>>
> >
> >
> >
> > Chuck Grandgent wrote:
> > > The plot thickens.
> > > I checked resistance and voltage at all the pins for V2, V3, V4,
> V5.
> > > The two bads are:
> > >   1) V5 12BA6 pin 5 (plate), resistance is 150 ohms, s/b 10k.  And
> > > votage is 3 volts, s/b 110v
> > > I guess R41 and maybe R142 bear more checking, though if either of
> > > these went high, I can't account for the low plate to ground
> > > resistance through this fault.
> > > Swapped this tube also with no effect.
> > >
> > >   2) V2 6HS6, manual says pin 3 (filament) s/b 6.3, is zero and
> > pin 4
> > > (filament) s/b 12.6, is 6.4.  Looking at the schematic, not sure
> > what
> > > to make of that.  And actually I did swap between my two 6HS6's
> with
> > > no difference.
> > >
> > >Chuck, K1OM
> > >
> > > On Feb 10, 2008 6:54 PM, Chuck Grandgent
> > <[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> > >  > >> wrote:
> > >
> > > OK, got some time to spend on this today.
> > > R40, R41, R42, and R89 SEEMED to checkout OK.
> > > However, if I put a potentiometer across R41 and adjust it for
> a
> > > low value, I can get the S-meter to respond.  Then, the
> S-meter
> > > zero adjustment R42 can bring the S-meter to any level on
> > the meter.
> > > But, it seems totally non-responsive to any received signal.
> > >
> > > I was also able to adjust the receiver sensitivity
> potentiometer
> > > on the bottom so TP2 was minus 1.35 volts.
> > >
> > > I replaced V4, V5, and V3, with no discernable difference.  I
> > > didn't have a spare for V2 6HS6.
> > >
> > > What to check now ?
> > >
> > > Thanks,   Chuck, K1OM
> > >
> > >
> > > On Feb 6, 2008 5:12 PM, Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > 
> > > >>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > 
> > >  > >> made an utterance to the
> > > drakelist gang
> > >
> >
> --
> > > Chuck -
> > >
> > > OK.  That's good!
> > >
> > >  From your description, the A